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Hello! I am not sure I understand your question. Can you rephrase?

On unused jack i plugged the transparent plastic jack cover. I want to remove so that connections be made

@@fmm5322 Hello! How you remove the transparent cover depends on the brand of jack. Our transparent covers have squeeze tabs that release the cover and it is very easy to do. Other covers may require carefully prying the cover off with a precision flat blade screwdriver. It will be easier to dismount the jack from the wall plate BEFORE attempting to remove the cover, and you will need to dismount the jack to terminate it anyway. I hope that helps!

Hello! I am glad I was able to put your mind at ease. I have a detailed written blog behind this video, where I even compare the performance between the two termination schemes. Spoiler: No difference. See it at www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/t568a-vs-t568b.

Hello! Here is the truth on Cat7 -- All Cat7 patch cords on the market terminated with 8P8C (aka RJ45) plugs are counterfeit. Each and every one. In the ISO/IEC 11801 spec 8P8Cs are not used for Cat7 on patch cords, it is GG45 or TERA connectors. In addition to this, the vast majority of so-called "Cat7" patch cords I have tested (the only exception being the one I tested here) FAIL even Cat6 patch cord testing. So, just because there is a Category stamped on the side of the cable does not mean the cable will get anywhere near the performance that is required of it or that it is built to the correct specifications.

Hello! Absolutely, yes. 70M is within the maximum distance that Ethernet can be run. Keep in mind that your particular maximum may be a bit less depending on ambient temperatures due to the environment in which your cable is installed. All of the maximums given are at 68 deg F or 20 deg C.

Hello, and great questions. Running alongside the 24V is no problem, as it is considered low voltage. The 230V will require separation on parallel if you are using unshielded Ethernet. Rule of thumb for 230V or less is 8" for unshielded and no separation for shielded. 400V is another story, and potentially dangerous. For that, you will need shielded if you are running parallel to it any closer than 24". If 18" or closer, then shielded Ethernet installed inside metallic conduit bonded to the ground at both ends is a good idea. If 24" or more away, you can use unshielded Ethernet.

@@trueCABLE allright thisbis perfectly clear shielded it will be. Thank you verry much.

@@bertkooijmans4769 Hello! You are welcome, and I was glad to help!

Hello! There are actually two videos. The first is about our new Cat6 UTP patch cords specifically (ruclips.net/video/DChS-Sizlgo/видео.htmlsi=xsq6ggO7jmPgiLat), and the second one is a competitor comparison vs our patch cord (ruclips.net/video/pCAMu0797eg/видео.htmlsi=DmRXZ2tjkTyXrR3F). The second one is very interesting indeed.

Hello! Technically speaking it won't cause a problem to use shielded hardware on unshielded Ethernet. That said, it is bad practice since someone may assume the cable is shielded when it is not. I recommend you don't do it since it yields no tangible benefits and can lead to a great deal of frustration. Shielded 8P8C (aka RJ45) plugs often use larger holes for the typically thicker insulated conductors for inside shielded Ethernet -- and this poses significant issues with finding a shielded plug that will fit your cable in the first place. Pick one that is too big, and you won't be transmitting data reliably or at all.

@@trueCABLE so, even it's a bit bad idea while there's no problem at all using shielded plugs for aesthetics or durability, it does gives protection as the cables will be installed inside of walls Shielded rj45 passthrough with 23 AWG would be ok for UTP with solid Copper cable with 23awg

@@sikuwaturon Hello! Essentially, and in an ideal world, you are correct. That said, the world is far from ideal. 23AWG is not the number you need to be most concerned with. Instead, you need to be concerned with the insulated conductor diameter, which is the combined thickness of the 23AWG copper conductor + plastic coating. That plastic coating is different from cable to cable type and from manufacturer to manufacturer. You need to be sure the insulated conductor diameter of the conductors the cable is using matches the fitment range of the RJ45 plug. My experience is that while possible to accomplish, it is by no means going to be easy to find a match unless you get lucky.

That's what we are here for!

Hello! That’s absolutely correct. Both ends of a permanent link (using in-wall solid copper cable) terminate in keystone jacks. At the head end of the installation, where the switches are located, you mount one keystone jack into a patch panel. At the remote outlet, you mount the other keystone jack into a wall plate. Then, you connect patch cords on both ends, and this setup is referred to as the channel.

I am so glad you mentioned the solid copper cable. I had originally placed an order the for cat6 Ethernet without realizing that some is copper clad aluminum and not suitable for POE. I was able to get that order cancelled and order the pure copper. Thank you.

@@craig2535 Hello! You are welcome. By purchasing solid copper Ethernet, you just saved yourself from a lot of hassles (during installation and down the line). I am glad our content was helpful in guiding you to the correct choice. PS - I would like to add that CCA is suitable for a clothesline and not much else. Not only is it no good with PoE, but it also has significant DC resistance unbalance issues that won't permit reliable and consistent data transmission.

Hello! Well, from left to right will depend upon whether you are looking at the plug from the front or rear or the top/bottom. I am wiring to the T568B color code, which means looking downward at the bottom (nonlatch side) of the plug, with the front of the plug pointing to the right, it starts at the top with W-Orange, Orange, W-Green, Blue, W-Blue, Green, W-Brown, and Brown at the bottom. W= white, striped pair. Please see www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/t568a-vs-t568b for detailed information.

Hello Jason! It all depends on how you are hooking up your game console, and what the quality of the patch cord is to start with. Many patch cords on the market dramatically fail patch cord testing to the point that we are seeing -6 dB on RL and -4 on NEXT. That alone, even if the patch cord is the only cable in the channel, will cause severe packet loss and retransmits, thus reducing speed and higher latency. If the patch cord fails less dramatically, say -2 dB on RL and -1 dB on NEXT, then you probably won't notice an issue. As it stands right now, 75% of patch cords on the market, that being imported ones from Asia, fit into one of those two profiles. If EITHER of those same patch cords are used in the context of channel with a permanent link (a structured cabling system from rack to jack), then the issues get far worse.

If you have $200k speakers, $10k cables 100% make a difference. Shunyata cables are incredible. Not a poor man’s game

@@StanThePigeon Don't forget the cable lifters and your $15k power cord !

@@StanThePigeon Correct. Every item in the chain must be super high quality in the game of audiophilia. In the case of our Cat6 U/UTP patch cord, it really IS better because it easily outperforms so-called "Cat7" (all counterfeit if terminated with 8P8C connectors) and "Cat8" patch cords that are not built and Certified to the standard. 75% of them are unmitigated trash. I have so called Cat6A patch cord samples that won't even Certify to Cat5e. Gamers are willing to pay a great deal of money for quality, if it helps in the slightest to up their game. The same gamers are putting their money into the wrong things such as higher Category, shielding, and empty promises or outright lies. Ethernet patch cords can be major source of headaches as they are so often overlooked, and remarkably difficult to test correctly unless you have $14,000 for the right tester laying around. In our case you don't have to worry about whether the patch cord is worth the Category printed on the jacket...each one is individually performance Certified on a Fluke DSX-8000 prior to shipment.

Hello! That sounds bad! I would recommend you take a more structured approach to this. Terminate keystone > keystone (or patch panel to keystone) and then use factory-made pre-terminated patch cords to complete the overall connection. Obviously, the keystone/hardware/etc. mounted outside needs to be moistureproof (including from humidity). See if that resolves it.

Hello! trueCABLE carries our own brand of spool caddy/holder. Please see here: www.truecable.com/products/cable-caddy-with-wheels-pull-strap.

Hello! Correct, a pair of decent adjustable pliers will also work albeit a bit imprecisely. The closure tool shown here is designed to eliminate any possible errors in too much or too little pressure and is designed to work with our tool-less keystone jacks and field termination plugs alike.

Hello and I am sorry to hear that! In going through the RMA for refund or replacement records I have to say that is a rather unusual thing to have happen. It does not look like a design flaw. In your case I am thinking your particular tool was defective. We are happy to replace it under our Forever Warranty. Just send us a picture of the tool that is broken with your contact information on our Contact Us form on the trueCABLE website. We will get you a replacement, at no charge. Thanks!

Hello! Yes, we are well aware that this can occur. With high quality transceivers and base switches, this is really a non issue. It is most often seen with bargain basement hardware.

Hello! This is to secure the cable to the strain relief bar found at the rear of the keystone jack.

Yes, you can clean the receiving end of the cable as well. One thing to note is to make sure you have the correct connector type so we offer the LC and SC type click cleaners. Select the correct one for your fiber cable connector type. Once you have the click cleaner, remove the guide cap from the top of the nozzle, and then it will be set to insert into a coupler or bulkhead adapter.

@@trueCABLEthank you so much.

That does not sound like fun, but it sounds like an interesting challenge. What installation called for 50ft of service slack in the ER/TR (the standard does not call them MDF/IDFs anymore)?

Hello! We all know those folks. Cleaning end faces is one of the easiest ways of eliminating performance issues and preventing equipment damage. It takes very little time, and the payoff can be hours of time saved. Share the video with your co-workers or bait them into a pizza party lunch where this video is playing :>)

Hello and greetings back from the USA! Thanks for sharing your experience with us. We are glad you enjoy the content and found it useful.

We've got plenty more coming! Glad you enjoy them!

@@trueCABLE I sure do !!

Hello! When (if) we starting selling our products internationally we will have multiple socket versions available. Right now it is NEMA standard since we sell in the North America and Puerto Rico only. Also, I don't recommend attempting to use a NEMA to G adapter as the resistance may increase and result in ineffective bonding to ground.

Hello! Taking your stated environment into account, your best bet is to use our Cat6 Unshielded Gel-Filled Direct Burial cable. It will provide maximum water resistance and is pretty easy to work with compared to shielded cable. Technically, you don't even need conduit as you can direct bury it--as long as you bury at least 24" deep. If using conduit, then bury the conduit at least 10" deep, but be sure to use a synthetic wax-based lubricant when pulling the cable through it to avoid cable damage. We sell everything you need. If you are in the USA or Puerto Rico, you can order directly from www.truecable.com, or if you are in Canada, you can order from Amazon CA. We don't currently ship internationally.

@@trueCABLE in based in Africa

@@shaibannatha795 Hello! trueCABLE sells in North America and Puerto Rico only at this time. In the future, we may start offering products internationally.

Hello! That sounds like a mess! If you restore the original color code pattern at the split, then that is the way to go. All parts of the cable run, end to end, MUST be using the same color pattern or you will end up with a cross-over cable. Alternatively, this might be an opportune time to pull the Cat6 U/UTP Riser using the existing Cat5e as the "pull string". This will ensure you are ready for 5Gbps Internet, which is already being deployed in some areas of the USA! As to either T568A or T568B--pick one and and stick with it. I personally use T568B since I standardized on it after memorizing it. There are no performance differences.

@@trueCABLE yea well i got it working for now without the hassle of re running the wires and ripping out a wall or 2 as when we put this wire in the first time it was all tied up with cable loops every 3-5fee

@@jaylord55 Hello again. I am glad you got it figured out. I completely understand about not wanting to rip out walls!

Hello. No, that would not be a good idea. End to end, the entire channel, including the terminations, should be shielded. It defeats the purpose of using shielded Ethernet if your terminations are also not shielded. Using shielded keystones to help bond your shielded Ethernet system to the ground makes your installation easier, not harder.

Hello, and thanks for watching our content! We are glad you find it useful. To answer your question: The trueCABLE All-In-One RJ45 Crimp and Termination Tool will terminate all RJ45 plugs, including pass-through and standard solid-nosed types. It will even crimp RJ45s without a strain latch provision by disengaging the strain latch presser bar. The exceptions to this would be proprietary RJ45 plugs, such as the EXO-EX line from Platinum Tools, or the old AMP style, which require you to use a specific termination tool.

Hello, and sorry for any confusion! We added a new accessory, our copper fabric strips, that stand-in for the cable shield when terminating. You remove the cable shield, fold back and wrap the drain wire around the jacket, and then tack down the drain wire with the conductive adhesive copper fabric strip. This makes the job a lot easier. If you don't have the copper fabric strips then you would still leave the cable shield on and wrap the drain wire around that.

Hello! We are eager to offer the Cat6A patch cords, too, but it will take time to get perfect. We won't release them until we are satisfied with the performance and reliability of them. As to our Cat6 patch cords, they easily handle 5Gbps. For 10Gbps, if the patch cord is used alone from powered device to powered device (and our patch cord is the only cable being used for the entire "channel"), you are guaranteed 10Gbps!

Thanks for watching!

Hello! We are glad you like our products and wish to buy them. If you are in the USA or Puerto Rico you may order our products directly from www.truecable.com or via Amazon. If in Canada, you may order via Amazon CA. We don't sell to other countries at this time, however.

Hello! trueCABLE is taking the high road on this. Being that we are not an independent review site, we are not naming any other manufacturers. The reason is considering we sell our own patch cords, information of that nature would be considered biased (for obvious reasons). However, we cannot stop anyone in the comments section from sending the video or underlying blog to an independent review site to pick up on and perhaps take further action.

Same question I have. Also, when you say you wired your whole house up with Cat6a I assume that is all the wiring from your gateway / router to you wall plugs. Are those also not considered to be patch cords in the sense of the network? Might be a stupid question and sorry it it is. Thanks

Hello! Thanks for the kudos and we are glad you find the content useful. As to the choice between shielded and unshielded Ethernet: Don't use shielded Ethernet cable unless you have a specific reason to do so and are looking to avoid a problem area you know about. Using shielded has benefits in some scenarios, but not yours. Incorrectly installed shielded Ethernet cable will cause far more trouble than resolve any non-existent issue.

@@trueCABLE thank you very much! 😊

That's what we are here for!

Always happy the help!

Unfortunately, we do not ship outside of the United States.

OK

It's difficult to get this type of rj45 to buy in my country.

Hello! You have a keen eye, and we would recommend you contact Xfinity to find out why the change was made. It is possible they were correcting a problem, as opposed to introducing one.

@@trueCABLE Thanks. I will assume the UPC will technically not cause an outage for internet and cable service and is compatible to a residential application

@@tomsmith5784 Hello and you are welcome. We would not want you to assume anything, however. We recommend still checking with Xfinity to be sure the right cable is being used and the end face polish is correct for the equipment. It won't hurt to ask them!

Hello. Properly terminated means not only the correct wire map but also proper plug-to-cable fitment to achieve the expected Category performance and, therefore, expected speeds. Up until lately, 1G and even 100Mbps were pretty common and affected to a lesser degree. That said, 2.5G and higher speeds are starting to become the norm, and any cable issues will start showing up with a greater frequency. Literally.

Hello, and thanks for sharing your story. I often use the same Ubiquiti equipment you do for home and small business installations. So, I have used the same method to track down quite a few less-than-quality patch cords. Cable quality matters not only in big data environments but also with smaller-scale setups! Consider that 2.5G is becoming the norm, and you will understand why. As to your "Cat7" cable, that is no Cat7 cable. If it were, it would have been terminated with GG45 or TERA connectors at both ends. The ISO/IEC 11801 standard does not call for Cat7 to be terminated with 8P8C (aka RJ45) connectors, and therefore, it was counterfeit before you took it out of the bag. You also discovered, as I have, that a solid Cat6 patch cord will easily outperform poor-quality Cat6A, "Cat7", and Cat8 patch cords. The more you know!

Hello! Beware claims regarding the "skin effect." It is suggested that the skin effect, where electrons run across the top of the copper, renders the underlying aluminum irrelevant in CCA cables. It is not quite this simple, and CCA cables behave differently when it comes to twisted pair communications cables as opposed to coaxial. CCA cables have a higher DC resistance and DC resistance unbalance problem that prevents them from meeting testing standards. The cable fails to meet expected standards and cannot be certified. In addition, the DC resistance of copper-clad aluminum is 55% higher than that of pure copper. Therefore, the claim that the skin effect negates the issues with CCA is unfounded and provable with test equipment.