Probably the best summary of this procedure I've ever found here on the 'net. I get a feeling that many pros cut a few corners to save time when doing this job. You didn't. You might have come across my videos of clutch pack replacement for this differential in the past. You've raised the bar, for sure, and you gained another subscriber today.
This is a kick ass video. You have got to have your balls screwed on pretty tight to follow it because he doesn't waste any time, but I honestly wouldn't want it any other way ( just rewind 50 times, that's fine). I did this procedure 10 yrs. ago or so with my 9.25 dodge and it lasted pretty good but... she's whining again. I have it torn down a little and looking at the open diff wondering what I did then, soooo.... looking for video to basically revive my memory (71 yrs. old). I think this video will do just that, THANK YOU !!!!!
I did some of that on my '03 Dakota QC 4x4 a week ago. I didn't replace any bearings and races, ring and pinion (it's a 3.55), crush sleeve - just the clutch packs and tube seals. I WANTED to do a full rebuild but 2 things made that decision for me. First is $, the second is I live in SE Wisconsin and the horrible body panel and cabin rust/rot would be throwing good money after a bad cause. Although I found some useful video's, and one best one of them all to prepare me for the project I'm feeling cheated by the RUclips search engine that yours wasn't in the top 50 given to me. It's only now, about 2 weeks since the job was done that your video thumbnail/preview was on the scroll-down panel while I was goofing around looking at random assorted video topics. Unfortunate because yours is the best one of the 50 or so I previewed. 👍🏻
Excellent video. I replaced all bearings, races seals and, clutches. Reused old ring and pinion. Must have watched this vid 20 times in the process. When putting the spiders back in you don’t need to beat them in, just compress one side of clutches a little and they should move. It’s a puzzle don’t use a hammer 😂. Anyway, this guy is a saint.
I bought some 4.56 gears years ago… still haven’t installed them because I know my truck will be on the lift for a month while I figure out my pinion depth and all those measurements lol! I think this video went a little too quickly for a beginner but I appreciate it! I was also thinking about installing a Detroit locker at the same time. But they’re pretty pricey.
Thanks for the feedback! There's a fine line between boring and informative, and it's hard to hit sometimes haha. It wasn't terrible, but definitely a project.
@@DartmechI have a good friend who has set up many axles before and is a master Volvo semi tech helping me come Wednesday to do this. I am however going to use the factory pinion bearings to use as “tester bearings” or just start out with factory shim. Unfortunately I couldn’t get two bearings the same brand… 😔
Thank you for the help. Your descriptions were great. I have not done the spline gear and am a little intimidated. I have not installed the spider gears and am a little intimidated, but they basically fell out when I disassembled so I am thinking that they will go back OK. The use of the bolt to hold the diff gears in place was genious. I used a leather glove. Your description of the backlash was most helpful as was the spline allignment.
Thank you for your tutorial , i feel confident enough to ATTACK my 2014 Ram .... had a bearing whining since some time , changed my outer wheel bearings , hoping that was the issue ... but no :-( again thank you for your clear and concise explanation !! :-) keep up the nice work my friend !!
Next time, measure the depth requirement for the axle shaft into the carrier assembly. then bind the axle into a vise. Now install the carrier assembly so that the splines align and slide the axle shaft into the spider gear and then just turn the carrier and spin the spider gears as you want.
When taking the play out of the drivers side adjuster. Turn the driver side adjuster all the way in, back off exactly 1/4 turn, then tighten the passenger side adjuster snug. This should get you close to correct backlash. Your welcome.
Is it binding on the pinion? Try backing off the ring on the drivers side and tighten the passenger until you get good play on the pinion then slowly turn them in little by little until it torques.
Man I’m doing the same job on same rear end. I’m so close I just need to insert spider gears but I didn’t remove the carrier it’s still inside. Is this possible?
I don’t think so unfortunately…. If your clutch packs aren’t too tight they you might be able to smash them in with a brass punch but forget about the curved shims behind them. They’re pretty thin… sorry, good luck whichever route you take!
Took my rear differential apart (identical truck), and I had the same clip part run a groove in the diff main bearing cap.the remaining clip fragment stayed in place and kept the clutches intact. Did you reuse the same bearing cap with no issue? Do you recall the pinion nut size?
Awesome video! I’ve been working on mine learning along the way and thought, why don’t I make a video to help others figure this out… you beat me to the punch. Great video, you’ve covered just about everything needed. good job brother. What was the torque specs on your ring gear? I’m doing one and everywhere I look says 65 ft-lb.
Hello, thank you for those kind words! Torque on my ring gear was round 100 I think. Per the Motive site: 7/16” bolts get 60-65ftlb, 1/2” get 100-110”.”
I found another rear end but it has disc brakes and mine is drums, same gear ratio, would it be cheaper to buy new parts for mine or replace the whole axle that has disc brakes? What am I looking at as far as cost value? The parts alone to rebuild is around $1,200 The rear end that I want to put in my truck is disc brakes but it's tight and in good shape, I'm just wondering what I'm getting myself into as far as Master cylinders in brake lines
@@joebradley1520 I was only in for the cost of the Ring/ pinion ($350 but wasn't Necessary as it wasn't bad) the bearings ($200) and Oil. If it hadn't been for the ring/pinion I would have been under $400 for sure. Switching out for discs isn't all that difficult, you'd just need the line from the wheel cylinder to go to the caliper as far as I know.
Really a fantastic video, I unfortunately have come across broken clutch pack retaining clips. Not looking to do a complete rebuild, just don’t have the time or money right now. Is it possible to replace the broken retaining clips without having to worry about adjustments ? backlash? and anything else ??? Thank you (:
I think you’re out of luck there.. the clips have little bends on other end to keep them from falling out. In order to replace them, the clutch packs will have to come out which mean the diff needs to come out so you’ve gotta do the whole process…. Sorry about that. If you leave the clips totally out so they’re not rubbing on anything like mine were, you’ll probably be fine for a while. However they will eventually start to wear into the diff carrier.
@@Dartmech Thansk for responding. That’s what i was starting to think about since the truck has almost 200k miles, not looking to dump a ton of money or time into it. I just removed the remains of the clips and appears to not have damaged anything. If you remove the carrier, you must rest backlash and preload everything ?
They’re Yukons off Amazon. Just make sure they have your part number. I used summitracing.com to figure that part out but amazon was cheaper than summit so I went with them.
On the Amazon website, in the reviews was a very informative way of removing and replacing the clutches by making a spreader....you don't need to remove the carrier and reset the backlash...etc. saves a ton of labor and time
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Probably the best summary of this procedure I've ever found here on the 'net. I get a feeling that many pros cut a few corners to save time when doing this job. You didn't. You might have come across my videos of clutch pack replacement for this differential in the past. You've raised the bar, for sure, and you gained another subscriber today.
Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate them!
Excellent video! I've got mine all torn down and ready for assembly - and you filled in some things that "I didn't know that I didn't know."
Great to hear!
AMAZING!!! I just bought some Yukon lsd gears, asked for instructions said “RUclips how to cut thick gear👨🏻💻”. Bro you’re Goated !!!
This is a kick ass video. You have got to have your balls screwed on pretty tight to follow it because he doesn't waste any time, but I honestly wouldn't want it any other way ( just rewind 50 times, that's fine). I did this procedure 10 yrs. ago or so with my 9.25 dodge and it lasted pretty good but... she's whining again. I have it torn down a little and looking at the open diff wondering what I did then, soooo.... looking for video to basically revive my memory (71 yrs. old). I think this video will do just that, THANK YOU !!!!!
I did some of that on my '03 Dakota QC 4x4 a week ago. I didn't replace any bearings and races, ring and pinion (it's a 3.55), crush sleeve - just the clutch packs and tube seals. I WANTED to do a full rebuild but 2 things made that decision for me. First is $, the second is I live in SE Wisconsin and the horrible body panel and cabin rust/rot would be throwing good money after a bad cause.
Although I found some useful video's, and one best one of them all to prepare me for the project I'm feeling cheated by the RUclips search engine that yours wasn't in the top 50 given to me.
It's only now, about 2 weeks since the job was done that your video thumbnail/preview was on the scroll-down panel while I was goofing around looking at random assorted video topics. Unfortunate because yours is the best one of the 50 or so I previewed.
👍🏻
Wow, thank you for those kind words! I wish you’d been able to see it sooner too, but I appreciate you taking the time to reach out!
Excellent video. I replaced all bearings, races seals and, clutches. Reused old ring and pinion. Must have watched this vid 20 times in the process. When putting the spiders back in you don’t need to beat them in, just compress one side of clutches a little and they should move. It’s a puzzle don’t use a hammer 😂. Anyway, this guy is a saint.
Don’t forget if your truck is 4+4 and you upgrade the rear diff gears to a higher or lower number you then also have to upgrade the front gears
Excellent point!
Awesome 👌...doing this on a 8.25 in my Dakota. Going from 3.55s to 3.90s..😊
Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to film, edit and upload.
You’re very welcome!
I bought some 4.56 gears years ago… still haven’t installed them because I know my truck will be on the lift for a month while I figure out my pinion depth and all those measurements lol!
I think this video went a little too quickly for a beginner but I appreciate it!
I was also thinking about installing a Detroit locker at the same time. But they’re pretty pricey.
Thanks for the feedback! There's a fine line between boring and informative, and it's hard to hit sometimes haha. It wasn't terrible, but definitely a project.
@@DartmechI have a good friend who has set up many axles before and is a master Volvo semi tech helping me come Wednesday to do this. I am however going to use the factory pinion bearings to use as “tester bearings” or just start out with factory shim. Unfortunately I couldn’t get two bearings the same brand… 😔
If Truck is 4+4 you have to upgrade the front gears as well
Thank you for the help. Your descriptions were great. I have not done the spline gear and am a little intimidated. I have not installed the spider gears and am a little intimidated, but they basically fell out when I disassembled so I am thinking that they will go back OK. The use of the bolt to hold the diff gears in place was genious. I used a leather glove. Your description of the backlash was most helpful as was the spline allignment.
This is an awesome video and THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE DETAILED DESCRIPTION!!
Glad it was helpful!
My ram has that exact piece of metal in the same spot, same gouging. Did you find out where it came from?
Thank you for your tutorial , i feel confident enough to ATTACK my 2014 Ram .... had a bearing whining since some time , changed my outer wheel bearings , hoping that was the issue ... but no :-( again thank you for your clear and concise explanation !! :-) keep up the nice work my friend !!
Ive done this before on my Dakota r/t years ago. This is a great video. I didn't have a video to reference.
Thanks for the link to the tool, lifesaver!!
You’re welcome! No getting around that thing well worth the $$
What stock gearing was in it that you replaced with the 4:56?
3:92s
@@Dartmech thank you very much for the informative video and the response
mega excellent work and video. Very detailed, precise and clear.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Next time, measure the depth requirement for the axle shaft into the carrier assembly. then bind the axle into a vise.
Now install the carrier assembly so that the splines align and slide the axle shaft into the spider gear and then just turn the carrier and spin the spider gears as you want.
When taking the play out of the drivers side adjuster. Turn the driver side adjuster all the way in, back off exactly 1/4 turn, then tighten the passenger side adjuster snug. This should get you close to correct backlash. Your welcome.
Ive followed this video to the letter yet once i start torquing the cap bolts it tightes so much that by 30 ft lbs im unable to turn the carrier
Is it binding on the pinion? Try backing off the ring on the drivers side and tighten the passenger until you get good play on the pinion then slowly turn them in little by little until it torques.
Man I’m doing the same job on same rear end. I’m so close I just need to insert spider gears but I didn’t remove the carrier it’s still inside. Is this possible?
I don’t think so unfortunately…. If your clutch packs aren’t too tight they you might be able to smash them in with a brass punch but forget about the curved shims behind them. They’re pretty thin… sorry, good luck whichever route you take!
What about the crush sleave
Great video
Can I change my rear differential ram 1500 2008 4.7 to rear differential 2500 heavy duty? Thx 4 help
Nice explanation thank you
Took my rear differential apart (identical truck), and I had the same clip part run a groove in the diff main bearing cap.the remaining clip fragment stayed in place and kept the clutches intact. Did you reuse the same bearing cap with no issue?
Do you recall the pinion nut size?
I reused the cap, no issues 10K+ miles later.
I don’t remember the socket size off hand.
Confused on actual measurement from pinion face ? What was your number ?
mine was 2.735," but they'll vary from make/model/etc...
Outstanding
Awesome video! I’ve been working on mine learning along the way and thought, why don’t I make a video to help others figure this out… you beat me to the punch. Great video, you’ve covered just about everything needed. good job brother. What was the torque specs on your ring gear? I’m doing one and everywhere I look says 65 ft-lb.
Hello, thank you for those kind words!
Torque on my ring gear was round 100 I think. Per the Motive site: 7/16” bolts get 60-65ftlb, 1/2” get 100-110”.”
What’s that shaft nut size
You're not worried about the bearing slipping on the shaft after you honed it out?
Those were purely for the pinion depth measurement , I put new bearings in once it was time to install the pinion. Hope that helps!
I found another rear end but it has disc brakes and mine is drums, same gear ratio, would it be cheaper to buy new parts for mine or replace the whole axle that has disc brakes?
What am I looking at as far as cost value?
The parts alone to rebuild is around $1,200
The rear end that I want to put in my truck is disc brakes but it's tight and in good shape, I'm just wondering what I'm getting myself into as far as Master cylinders in brake lines
@@joebradley1520 I was only in for the cost of the Ring/ pinion ($350 but wasn't Necessary as it wasn't bad) the bearings ($200) and Oil. If it hadn't been for the ring/pinion I would have been under $400 for sure. Switching out for discs isn't all that difficult, you'd just need the line from the wheel cylinder to go to the caliper as far as I know.
I believe you need a proportioning valve also@@Dartmech
Really a fantastic video, I unfortunately have come across broken clutch pack retaining clips. Not looking to do a complete rebuild, just don’t have the time or money right now. Is it possible to replace the broken retaining clips without having to worry about adjustments ? backlash? and anything else ??? Thank you (:
I think you’re out of luck there.. the clips have little bends on other end to keep them from falling out. In order to replace them, the clutch packs will have to come out which mean the diff needs to come out so you’ve gotta do the whole process…. Sorry about that. If you leave the clips totally out so they’re not rubbing on anything like mine were, you’ll probably be fine for a while. However they will eventually start to wear into the diff carrier.
@@Dartmech Thansk for responding. That’s what i was starting to think about since the truck has almost 200k miles, not looking to dump a ton of money or time into it. I just removed the remains of the clips and appears to not have damaged anything. If you remove the carrier, you must rest backlash and preload everything ?
Need to know torch pounds for ting gear bolts
Sorry for the late response it’s like 65ftlbs for the rear and 100 for the fronts. Best to consult the manufacturer for specs though.
About how long did this take you?
All in all two days but I was taking my time.
good video 100%
Thanks!
This job is a lot easier if you have a press and a vise.
MUCH easier.
Where did you get the clutches
They’re Yukons off Amazon. Just make sure they have your part number. I used summitracing.com to figure that part out but amazon was cheaper than summit so I went with them.
On the Amazon website, in the reviews was a very informative way of removing and replacing the clutches by making a spreader....you don't need to remove the carrier and reset the backlash...etc. saves a ton of labor and time
Where did u buy the spider gear? @@Dartmech
What’s that shaft nut size