Again, huge thank you to Hose Solutions. We couldn't be happier with the Boreline well hose. You can contact them with any questions you may have. www.HoseSolutions.com +1 480-607-1507 Sales@HoseSolutions.com
I watched this video to assist me in deciding what type of drop pipe to put in our well. After speaking with Hose Solutions in Scottsdale I am sold on the product and will be purchasing soon. The sales person I spoke with was very knowledgeable and helpful. I am looking forward to doing business with them.
Good grief, you are a walking encyclopedia of information. As much as you have researched and proven to be effective, you should write a book. I am impressed, and it takes a lot to impress me at my age, I am serious. You are the most efficient off-grid channel I watch, and I watch several. Your channel, to me, is like the icing on the cake. I can't wait until Sunday after church to watch what you all have done next.
Just saw this video today. Our family is doing the same thing in Northern Az moving up from the Phoenix area. We are about to put in the boreline hose into our newly drilled well. Hope it goes as smoothly. Looks like we may be in the same area.
So amazing!!! Watched my brothers and dad pull our ranch well tons of times.. Such an ordeal.. This set up would have been magical. Love your channel!!!
Great video! I developed a cheap way to measure from the surface to the top of the water. Use a digital recorder and tap the top of the well casing with a metal object while recording. Then load the sound file into a laptop and use a program like Goldwave to get an image of the sound. You will see two peaks, one the initial sound and the second the echo. The software will allow you to measure the time between the peaks and you can google how fast sound travels in air and divide the measured time by two. So you're using the speed of sound to measure the depth. It works and does not require dropping anything into your well.
Just found this channel. Subscribed. Can't believe however you are running this pump well over 700 feet on 120V. Major power losses and performance issues. 250V would have been so much better. Maybe the pump is that low of power or it's electronics make up for it, but voltage drop really raises stress on electronics and motor windings. I am not being critical, just observing! I use multiple check valves down there as the integrated ones, even in a high end pump like Grundfos fail after a couple years without a cycle stop valve up top but your use case is so much different. If it takes 10 minutes plus to fill the pipe and then run a few hours to fill the main tanks then that is okay. New to your channel but glad you have water finally. I typically spend the times between pulling the pump (5-10 years) stocking every singe item needed, from pump, wires, pipe, well seals, splicing kits and means to pull the pipe. Water is so much important more than anything else.
Hi Guys... Well done all round on using quality equipment.... I installed my first Grundfos in 1984 and its still running and never been out the ground.... I dont recall the total of pumps I have installed over the years but Grundfos has never ever let me down.... There are many other good pumps out there as well here in South Africa, but now that I have retired I can put my foot in it!!!!! I love the way you do your research and the products you use.... I have only used Boreline once on a 22kW pump at 120m with 6" rising main... Its just to bloody expensive here in SA..... Lastly I am Jealous of your Victron solar set up.... I have done a few for clients but never one for myself.... Cheers and well done Clive
That Boreline tip is incredibly valuable for those of us planning to drill a well. Thank you. Hope you both are rocking on your porch with the great-great-grandkids well after the warranty expires. The quality of your videos and storytelling have steadily improved (not saying they were bad before). Kudos to Natalie. Good work. Congrats on getting the well fully operational. It will be interesting to see how eventual irrigation requirements impact your usage and pump cycle rates. Thanks for sharing your journey with all of us.
Very nice! Great to know that the Pipe you chose has such a great rating. If you have to pull the pump, it will be so much easier than having to deal with rigid pipe. I had a well in 3 Points AZ, 996 ft deep, and had a 240vac pump in it, galvanized pipe with check valve at bottom and 2 others spaced out along the 940 ft length. It worked fine for about 10 years and then, because of the fine sentiment in the water, all the check valves failed. The fine sentiment got lodged into the hinge/seal and prevented the valve from fully closing and so after each time the pump went on, the 940 ft length (plus the 300 ft from the well to the house) would drain. So each time the pump would turn on, it would take about 15 minutes for the water to start comming out. My well guy and I pulled the pump and pipes out and discovered the problem and he said that there was really nothing he could do except replace the check valves and wait till they failed again. So we replaced them. Everything worked fine. My tank was 3000 gal and the float switch was set to turn on at about 1/2 empty. The well guy said to reset the float so that it would turn on at about 3/4 or 7/8 empty. That way the pump would spend more time turned on and not start up as often because it is the start up that puts so much strain on the motor etc.. I don't know how it is doing now since I sold the place.
@@RRaucina In my area the water is very hard, full of iron. My well guy said that because of the well depth, 950+ft (again normal in my area) and the hardness of the water, it was prudent to install several check valves. I later learned that valves in my area lasted 5 to 7 years because of the water and needed to be replace. Mine failed after 8 years and I didn't have the $$ to pull the 900' of pipe.
I am born, raised in Phoenix and untl a year ago lived there most of my life. I am 65 so have a bit of time stomping all over the state. From the pinion trees I am guessing you are at 6 to maybe 7 thousand feet. While I dont know where you are, I am curious, whats your frost line there? I spent 4 years in Colorado at exactly 7 thousand feet and it got really cold there. We buried to 8 feet minimum. Exposed pipe got heat tape, foil, and then foam. It worked amazingly well down to -20 and very windy. My surviving family is still there. Sister on the rim in lakeside and Dad north of Mayer up towards Breezy Pines from Poland Junction. Dads place we built in the 60s and he has added on big time. Thank you and be safe.
Interesting product that bore line is, looks pretty strong. I used PEX. Look into it for your upline to the tank instead of PVC. PEX is freeze resistant so you don't need to drain it in the winter.
Being as deep as the well is I might have put in a bigger pump. That's a lot of head pressure needed to pump up the water. Good choice on the hose been seeing a lot of good things about it. I live in Az. wish I had a well. I would get a good filter and water softener as water here is hard and alkaline. I put in a Aquasure bundle with softener and filter. Good luck with framing and stay safe.
We do have a filter system in place. The water goes through 3 filters and a uv light. We put that in a ways back. The only thing we need is water softener. Because, like you said, Arizona has hard water. Thanks 🙂
Isn't it nice that your subscribers are willing to offer useful information and suggestions? lol! I'm fascinated by the strength of that tubing, and also the fact that the pump can move water nearly 800 vertical feet. That thing has got to have a seriously beefy impeller drive, and to pull less than 10amps under that operational load is remarkable.
What an up water episode. This design and selection of the products was very interesting. I think you need a bigger shed in future for the purification system next?
You have answered my question. Were you going to have a flow switch to regulate the water? Looking good, I enjoy your family videos every week. Keep up the good work.
It's going to get harder to do things when winter comes, but the main things are done, i can remember when u guys were having a cold shower outside, electric sorted, water sorted, fresh eggs 😊 ❤❤
how awesome is that from one of your subscribers for the pump line...interesting that they are out of Scottsdale, pretty amazing, thanks for the step by step...what a process..water, wahoo!!! So happy for you guys, thanks for sharing
For solar pumping control, install a voltage relay and your well will start pumping based on the voltage/percentage full on your battery bank. I designed this set up my self to use on ours. Around 11 am the pump kicks on, runs as needed all day into tanks and after 5 to 6 pm as the battery and solar drop it shuts down automatically. It was about $30 to build it.
Thank you for sharing your story with us. Are you still going to collect rainwater? Maybe you can divert it into a different container for outside use. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🫡
Currently, the shed collects rainwater that goes into the same tank. We would like to collect rainwater off the house once it's built. We'll see if it works out. Thanks 🙂
Boy I'm glad you did that... show us the dog with the squeaky toy - I was wondering what sort of alarm the water/electric line had to tell you to tie them together... that might have gotten a bit annoying after the first 500 feet or so... lol. RR Buildings just built his own new dream shop and he used something similar to bore horizontally in order to put in conduit/water/etc. It's a pretty cool product - and galvanized is not flexible AT ALL... like this stuff is. Thanks for sharing this with us.
The float valve is important. I suspect you will not have issues with the borline, more likely with the grundfos pump. It has rectifiers in it to convert AC to run the DC motor inside the pump. There will probably be some X or Y class capacitors in the pump as well, which are known to incrementally die. I have yet to see any long term reliability testing on these DC grundfos pumps. You can monitor the capacitor "healing" process if you put something like the "sense" current monitor on the well power line. the short power logging is time is seconds so you can catch sharp dips or spikes in the power draw which are an indicator of pump electronics health. Traditional downhole well pumps dont have capacitors or semiconductors down hole.
they have huge complex circuit boards, chips, firmware and gobs of components in them. I tore a smaller model apart after it failed and was surprised how complex they were. magnetic driven motor, water lubricated/cooled. half the pump length was circuitry, then impeller stack. but yes, they full wave bridge rectify to DC, stored in fair sized electrolytic caps, then to the complex circuitry, which is supposed to have soft start, run dry protection and more.
We get over 115,000 gallons a year from rain in our system and our well is only about 2 gpm max so its 24 volt solar and just does mineral adding to the rain system. Our Central Texas water wells are not high producers.
Question for you, If you get that much water from Rain, would it be useful to put some of that down the well? would that just be waste or would it help the aquifer? I know nothing about well, and the science working with them.
Nice work, Please add float valve to your storage tank in case the water fills overnight it will shout itself off, also if it was me I would place the storage tank on a higher ground or platform to gravity feed the house instead of depending on the pump day & night.
I subscribed to learn more and because of the work you must have done to produce the quality video. Glad there was no extraneous music. For some of us whose ears don’t work as well as they did at age ten, sorting out music from speech and ‘ah-hah’ moments adds stress to the older ‘CPU’ inside! Thank you ever so much for all the information.
Hi all....what an accomplishment for your selves and maybe animals and garden! Such a great video. Your own water is epic!! Thanks for allowing all of us to experience this with you. Love from Central Oklahoma
I just installed the same pump at 500' a month ago and couldn't be happier with it. On 240 ac for now and only pulls 1kw where the old 240v Grundfos pulled 2.4kw. Old one was on steel and it went back in the same so it was quite a different experience.
Good morning how are you guys doing today looks like everything is coming together looks like the the will is coming together you guys have a good day and God bless you guys
Incredible to watch this pump install with Boreline hose.......a few questions if I may, 1. what level is your pump at exactly? (how far below 774 feet is the pump). And 2. only one check valve for that complete column of water? When that pump first kicks on with 750+ feet of column pressure it must draw a heck of a load to get it to move that much water. ALSO.....if you were to have to pull your pump for any reason, have you calculated how much weight that the lifting mechanism would be required to pull including all the water in the Boreline hose?
The pump is sitting at 840 feet. All they recommend is one check valve, and from I understand is there aren't any others because there is no water hammer. The hose itself absorbs any water hammer due to its flexibility. The one check valve is just to protect the pumps internal check valve. As far as the weight goes, we're looking at about 800 pounds. Thanks 🙂
@@aboulderlifeoffgrid Was it 800 pounds "dry" when you made the installation? My quick math tells me that your installer guy said 14 minutes to fill the hose to surface, so would it be 14x2 gallons per minute = 28 gallons to fill the hose to surface. Then take 28 gallons which is in the hose and multiply by 8.34 pounds per gallon, which would mean there is only 233 pounds of column water from the pump to surface.....it seems like I lowballed the water weight.
@pauleastend4706 OK, so I just looked up the weights of all the items. And it looks like the weight is more like 700 pounds wet. And that's with rounding up. Thanks 🙂
I live in central oregon and we are on a spring that goes into a 5000 gallon tank, we can easily go all winter with only using about 2500 gallons. In the winter our spring almost completely stops running
You might consider adding a 1/8” weep hole to the base of the vertical that feeds the tank under the frost line instead of a manual drain valve. Backfill with gravel and ground cloth to keep it free of dirt. You will loose a small amount of water when pumping, but it would allow the vertical riser to drain free of water, when freezing temps are present, to prevent the water pipe from freezing and cracking when the pump is off.
running black poly pipe at depths beyond 120 feet gets risky due to the high pressures it sees. every 2.31 feet of elevation(depth) is 1psi higher pressure at that point. alternately 1' of water depth = 0.433 psi. so at 700 feet deep the pressure is extremely high with just water in the line and not pumping (700 x 0.433 = 303.1psi!) add to that any pressure you want it to build into a tank, if it's not free flowing. the calculation starts at whatever the resting/in-use depth of the water is above the pump to the outlet off the well head.
It was probably already mentioned but most "5g" buckets hold more than that . I have measured by weight and have some that hold 6 after you subtract the bucket weight. Pump is probably doing the 3g permin.
a bit late now, but you should stagger the wire lengths, so none of the butt connector are aligned and capable of rubbing each other. added insurance. 😉
Interesting method. How do you keep the rock wall of the well from rubbing through where it lays against the rock as all wells have some deviation? In my area we use centering devices to keep our pipe and cable off the rock. It the cable that usually wears through after a few years.
It looks a lot like a fire hose but smaller around that will be so much easier if you ever had to pull the pump out it doesn't have to be pulled straight up in the air if you wanted you could pull it out by hand 👍
Last thing is the pump house you got right there next to it. The laundry room and pump house you could actually put solar on top of that to run the pump.
hello I lived off grid in Alaska for 14 years ,because age moved lol anyway I could keep my water tank from freezing in 3 easy steps1 buy pond heater plug in winter kept from freezing neg 40 2 from tank to house take 4 in insulation board, under pipe and on top last was heat tape around pipe of course buried it I will let you know put on same switch as heater so you don't forget I did it once took 2 days using steamer for cloths to un freeze
I have only installed a couple well pumps (both around 200 feet) so had a question here. I don't see a safety cable being installed as a backup if the pump were to fall. I had used PVC and, prior to that, galvanized pipe so both were heavier than Boreline. Is the relatively light weight the reason a safety cable is not used? Other factors? I appreciate seeing this work.
You got a sawmill builder, dude, like everybody else. Does they build a wooden shed? Around their tank wiping system, and they're all that, and then what they do is insulate it. Then there you go. You got a good clean, warm set up from water.
I know nothing about water-wells. I didn't understand the piping-adapter you first installed in the casing. And I didn't understand the T-bar installation thing. What is holding up all that weight ? The rigidity of the tubing and the wiring against the casing-wall ?? I didn't understand how you connected it to the plumbing-adapter that you first installed ??
That adapter is called a pitless adapter. It is very hefty and very capable of holding the near 700 pounds of total weight that hangs from it. The T bar is what is used to connect to the adapter to install it or pull it out if needed. There is a lot to learn when it comes to wells. And although I don't know it all, I have learned a lot myself. Thanks 🙂
The fitting is special and holds the piping suspended so it doesn't fall to bottom...as well as passes through the wall of casing. Need to get the water out right? It's normally installed below the frostline of the area so it doesn't freeze. That means it's down in the casing a few feet. So you need the T bar to connect to it and install/remove it.
What are you using in your tank for water treatment to keep the water in your tank from going stagnant? I have a 1500 gal tank and I use a triple-o Ozone system that works great. But I am grid tied so power is not a huge concern.
The tank is designed to block all light from getting in and causing an algae problem. We also already have a three filter plus UV light system in our shed to make the water drinkable. Thanks 🙂
So that pump draws 8.4amps....was your wire size 14/3 (PFB14/3GG) or 12/3 (PFB12/3GG) from Service Wire Company....as I am doing all the research for the 40acres I plan to buy near Seligman Arizona. Your video's are so valuable and I am looking to also do the same thing as I am a General Contractor in Chandler Arizona and will be creating our vacation/retirement property.
The wire was 8/3 because of voltage drop from the length of the wire. In reality, it only needed to be 8/2. We went with one extra wire in the cable because we hope to put a three phase pump in the well in the future when the current pump goes bad. With a three phase, we're hoping to get closer to 10 gallons a minute. Thanks 🙂
Looks like a cool product. So, you don't need a safety rope or torque limiters with the hose? How deep did you set the pump ( 6hp pump)? Thanks for sharing this!
The boreline is the safety rope. It's near impossible for it to break or degrade and break. So since it's a hose, there is no water hammer to worry about since it's flexible and absorbs the water hammer from pump start-up. Torque limiters/check valves are not needed except for one near the pump, which is just for protecting the pump. The pump is set at 840 feet and is only 1 hp. Thanks 🙂
Torque limiters center the pump and line in the well especially near the pump to limit/stop abrasion to the pump, wires and lines especially the wiring. A 1hp pump at 850' of head is amazing!
"deepness", aka depth. question: i am sure there is restraint but my query is what keeps the pump from rotating when starting (since it is on flexible hose)?i see, since you are letting it pump into the top of the tank, open butt, there is hardly any pressure (other than the head to overcome the depth of the well), therefore there will be very little starting torgue. if i had just been patient and watched! alas!........g
I didn't hear the size of storage batteries you had there. I have 5.4kWh of solar and 20kWh of battery backup. Great job. What size is that well bore, 12"? The large tank and smaller well pump is the way to go. Cheaper initially and cheaper to replace when that day comes. Do you have an inline pump from the tank to the house? Anyway, nice setup.
i would have went with Quest pipe. The quest is more rigid and less affected by the pump torque when it turns on and off. Also less stress and wear on your wiring for the same reason
He said 100 years guaranteed for 50 year awesome. Are you going to put a water level in your water barrel if water level goes down the pump will turn on.
I has my foot valve that close to the pump and it ruined the foot valve in no time at all. Moved the foot valve ten feet above the pump and have had no problem with the foot valve since. Was told it was due to the fast rotation of the water as it left the pump. The fast spinning water would spin the foot valve and wear it out at a rapid pace.
One question I always have when using hose or poly is how do you get it back out of the well when the hose is full of water? You can’t put it back on a reel.
I wonder what the h20mechanic would say, he uses some flexible pipe for wells like that. I was kinda thinking if you did that trick with the bolts and washers 500 times, you'd lose at least one set down a well... I wonder if a quick release lever would work better?
great to see this. No I LOVE THIS. It is best to use a 2 stage pumping system with solar to maximize energy efficiency. One pump in the well to lift the water, 2-4 g/m to a "cache" tank, non-pressurized like you have already. then a pressurizing pump drawing from the tank. But you knew that already. Installing its OWN set of PV panels and running it on DC, you won't have to turn it on and off. Just let it fill and let the PV panels do the work away from your battery system. I have wanted to have a place and do exactly what you are doing here with the 2 stage pumping, really cool. your tank will fill nicely with rain, snow and well. tank fills and the float switch will stop the well when full. Nicely done. I love solar. I am off grid power 100% March to October, but I am adding more panels for winter support. Lots of sun high in Utah
Again, huge thank you to Hose Solutions. We couldn't be happier with the Boreline well hose. You can contact them with any questions you may have.
www.HoseSolutions.com
+1 480-607-1507
Sales@HoseSolutions.com
I watched this video to assist me in deciding what type of drop pipe to put in our well. After speaking with Hose Solutions in Scottsdale I am sold on the product and will be purchasing soon. The sales person I spoke with was very knowledgeable and helpful. I am looking forward to doing business with them.
Good grief, you are a walking encyclopedia of information. As much as you have researched and proven to be effective, you should write a book. I am impressed, and it takes a lot to impress me at my age, I am serious. You are the most efficient off-grid channel I watch, and I watch several. Your channel, to me, is like the icing on the cake. I can't wait until Sunday after church to watch what you all have done next.
Just saw this video today. Our family is doing the same thing in Northern Az moving up from the Phoenix area. We are about to put in the boreline hose into our newly drilled well. Hope it goes as smoothly. Looks like we may be in the same area.
Happy for your family to have WATER!! Showers, cooking, washing clothes, gardening, trees etc..... Swimming pool !!!!
Superb job.
So amazing!!! Watched my brothers and dad pull our ranch well tons of times.. Such an ordeal.. This set up would have been magical. Love your channel!!!
Great video! I developed a cheap way to measure from the surface to the top of the water. Use a digital recorder and tap the top of the well casing with a metal object while recording. Then load the sound file into a laptop and use a program like Goldwave to get an image of the sound. You will see two peaks, one the initial sound and the second the echo. The software will allow you to measure the time between the peaks and you can google how fast sound travels in air and divide the measured time by two. So you're using the speed of sound to measure the depth. It works and does not require dropping anything into your well.
Instead of going through all the software BS... just drop two lines... one with a float and sinker, and the other with just a sinker. Problem solved.
Thanks, never heard of that, I like that and 50 year’s warranty is a huge bonus!
Just found this channel. Subscribed. Can't believe however you are running this pump well over 700 feet on 120V. Major power losses and performance issues. 250V would have been so much better. Maybe the pump is that low of power or it's electronics make up for it, but voltage drop really raises stress on electronics and motor windings. I am not being critical, just observing! I use multiple check valves down there as the integrated ones, even in a high end pump like Grundfos fail after a couple years without a cycle stop valve up top but your use case is so much different. If it takes 10 minutes plus to fill the pipe and then run a few hours to fill the main tanks then that is okay. New to your channel but glad you have water finally. I typically spend the times between pulling the pump (5-10 years) stocking every singe item needed, from pump, wires, pipe, well seals, splicing kits and means to pull the pipe. Water is so much important more than anything else.
Hi Guys... Well done all round on using quality equipment.... I installed my first Grundfos in 1984 and its still running and never been out the ground.... I dont recall the total of pumps I have installed over the years but Grundfos has never ever let me down.... There are many other good pumps out there as well here in South Africa, but now that I have retired I can put my foot in it!!!!! I love the way you do your research and the products you use.... I have only used Boreline once on a 22kW pump at 120m with 6" rising main... Its just to bloody expensive here in SA..... Lastly I am Jealous of your Victron solar set up.... I have done a few for clients but never one for myself....
Cheers and well done
Clive
That Boreline tip is incredibly valuable for those of us planning to drill a well. Thank you. Hope you both are rocking on your porch with the great-great-grandkids well after the warranty expires.
The quality of your videos and storytelling have steadily improved (not saying they were bad before). Kudos to Natalie. Good work.
Congrats on getting the well fully operational. It will be interesting to see how eventual irrigation requirements impact your usage and pump cycle rates. Thanks for sharing your journey with all of us.
Very nice! Great to know that the Pipe you chose has such a great rating. If you have to pull the pump, it will be so much easier than having to deal with rigid pipe. I had a well in 3 Points AZ, 996 ft deep, and had a 240vac pump in it, galvanized pipe with check valve at bottom and 2 others spaced out along the 940 ft length. It worked fine for about 10 years and then, because of the fine sentiment in the water, all the check valves failed. The fine sentiment got lodged into the hinge/seal and prevented the valve from fully closing and so after each time the pump went on, the 940 ft length (plus the 300 ft from the well to the house) would drain. So each time the pump would turn on, it would take about 15 minutes for the water to start comming out. My well guy and I pulled the pump and pipes out and discovered the problem and he said that there was really nothing he could do except replace the check valves and wait till they failed again. So we replaced them. Everything worked fine. My tank was 3000 gal and the float switch was set to turn on at about 1/2 empty. The well guy said to reset the float so that it would turn on at about 3/4 or 7/8 empty. That way the pump would spend more time turned on and not start up as often because it is the start up that puts so much strain on the motor etc.. I don't know how it is doing now since I sold the place.
Excellent info, yeah I can't imagine the actual start up amps pushing that much column pressure up 1000 feet.
You only needed one GOOD USA ball check at the bottom, above the pumps CV.
@@RRaucina In my area the water is very hard, full of iron. My well guy said that because of the well depth, 950+ft (again normal in my area) and the hardness of the water, it was prudent to install several check valves. I later learned that valves in my area lasted 5 to 7 years because of the water and needed to be replace. Mine failed after 8 years and I didn't have the $$ to pull the 900' of pipe.
Nice system! Well thought out and researched. Hope you have many years of problem free water supply. Take care and stay safe!
Congratulations on another huge accomplishment achieved! Very proud of you all! Cheers from Chattanooga, TN.
And another congratulations from Chattanooga TN.
I am born, raised in Phoenix and untl a year ago lived there most of my life. I am 65 so have a bit of time stomping all over the state. From the pinion trees I am guessing you are at 6 to maybe 7 thousand feet. While I dont know where you are, I am curious, whats your frost line there? I spent 4 years in Colorado at exactly 7 thousand feet and it got really cold there. We buried to 8 feet minimum. Exposed pipe got heat tape, foil, and then foam. It worked amazingly well down to -20 and very windy. My surviving family is still there. Sister on the rim in lakeside and Dad north of Mayer up towards Breezy Pines from Poland Junction. Dads place we built in the 60s and he has added on big time. Thank you and be safe.
We're near the white mountains. Frost line is 18 inches, but we like to put our pipes around 30 inches. Thanks 🙂
Great video, life will get a little bit easier.
Interesting product that bore line is, looks pretty strong. I used PEX. Look into it for your upline to the tank instead of PVC. PEX is freeze resistant so you don't need to drain it in the winter.
Being as deep as the well is I might have put in a bigger pump. That's a lot of head pressure needed to pump up the water. Good choice on the hose been seeing a lot of good things about it. I live in Az. wish I had a well. I would get a good filter and water softener as water here is hard and alkaline. I put in a Aquasure bundle with softener and filter. Good luck with framing and stay safe.
We do have a filter system in place. The water goes through 3 filters and a uv light. We put that in a ways back. The only thing we need is water softener. Because, like you said, Arizona has hard water. Thanks 🙂
Isn't it nice that your subscribers are willing to offer useful information and suggestions? lol! I'm fascinated by the strength of that tubing, and also the fact that the pump can move water nearly 800 vertical feet. That thing has got to have a seriously beefy impeller drive, and to pull less than 10amps under that operational load is remarkable.
Especially at 120v
What an up water episode. This design and selection of the products was very interesting. I think you need a bigger shed in future for the purification system next?
The filtration system was installed almost 2 years ago. We're good to go. Thanks 🙂
That's awesome. We weren't given that choice. We could have done our own.
You have answered my question. Were you going to have a flow switch to regulate the water? Looking good, I enjoy your family videos every week. Keep up the good work.
Congratulations on getting the well and tank installed. The Coconino aquifer has such good water.
We have water 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉. Congratulations. One step closer💪🏽. Blessings to your family🙏🏾
So happy for you and your family may God continue to bless you
Helped my neighbor use this product in Australia last year for one of his bores, inch and a half boreline 190 m (623 feet) deep.
It's going to get harder to do things when winter comes, but the main things are done, i can remember when u guys were having a cold shower outside, electric sorted, water sorted, fresh eggs 😊 ❤❤
Yes! It's so awesome! 😃
Excellent job! So nice to have water!
how awesome is that from one of your subscribers for the pump line...interesting that they are out of Scottsdale, pretty amazing, thanks for the step by step...what a process..water, wahoo!!! So happy for you guys, thanks for sharing
I hope everything is good with your well❤❤👁👁👁👁👁👁🫶🫶🫶🫶🫶🫶
you might want to look at adding in a tank float switch to turn the pump on and off as needed to keep the tank full....
For solar pumping control, install a voltage relay and your well will start pumping based on the voltage/percentage full on your battery bank. I designed this set up my self to use on ours. Around 11 am the pump kicks on, runs as needed all day into tanks and after 5 to 6 pm as the battery and solar drop it shuts down automatically. It was about $30 to build it.
Never a boring video (besides drilling for a well - LOL) from these guys and gals. I think I learn something every week.
Congratulations on getting your water
Thank you for sharing your story with us. Are you still going to collect rainwater? Maybe you can divert it into a different container for outside use. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🫡
Currently, the shed collects rainwater that goes into the same tank. We would like to collect rainwater off the house once it's built. We'll see if it works out. Thanks 🙂
Boy I'm glad you did that... show us the dog with the squeaky toy - I was wondering what sort of alarm the water/electric line had to tell you to tie them together... that might have gotten a bit annoying after the first 500 feet or so... lol. RR Buildings just built his own new dream shop and he used something similar to bore horizontally in order to put in conduit/water/etc. It's a pretty cool product - and galvanized is not flexible AT ALL... like this stuff is. Thanks for sharing this with us.
You beat winter with getting the well completed! Great job 🎉
i just ignored the video the video and the talking and enjoyed the beautiful music ,thank you !
So happy for you all.
How exciting!! Your well is in!! This whole project is amazing!!
All right how cool !!!! After 2yrs we have been watching from the beginning! So happy for you ❤😅
The float valve is important. I suspect you will not have issues with the borline, more likely with the grundfos pump. It has rectifiers in it to convert AC to run the DC motor inside the pump. There will probably be some X or Y class capacitors in the pump as well, which are known to incrementally die. I have yet to see any long term reliability testing on these DC grundfos pumps. You can monitor the capacitor "healing" process if you put something like the "sense" current monitor on the well power line. the short power logging is time is seconds so you can catch sharp dips or spikes in the power draw which are an indicator of pump electronics health. Traditional downhole well pumps dont have capacitors or semiconductors down hole.
they have huge complex circuit boards, chips, firmware and gobs of components in them. I tore a smaller model apart after it failed and was surprised how complex they were.
magnetic driven motor, water lubricated/cooled. half the pump length was circuitry, then impeller stack.
but yes, they full wave bridge rectify to DC, stored in fair sized electrolytic caps, then to the complex circuitry, which is supposed to have soft start, run dry protection and more.
We get over 115,000 gallons a year from rain in our system and our well is only about 2 gpm max so its 24 volt solar and just does mineral adding to the rain system. Our Central Texas water wells are not high producers.
Question for you, If you get that much water from Rain, would it be useful to put some of that down the well? would that just be waste or would it help the aquifer? I know nothing about well, and the science working with them.
Any concerns of how tight the wire is strapped to the wire? Seems like it’s pretty tight and that would compress the hose and thus restrict the flow.
He's the professional and has done it many times. No worries here. Thanks 🙂
Good job on the well and at least on wont have to haul water or have it delivered
Nice work, Please add float valve to your storage tank in case the water fills overnight it will shout itself off, also if it was me I would place the storage tank on a higher ground or platform to gravity feed the house instead of depending on the pump day & night.
I subscribed to learn more and because of the work you must have done to produce the quality video. Glad there was no extraneous music. For some of us whose ears don’t work as well as they did at age ten, sorting out music from speech and ‘ah-hah’ moments adds stress to the older ‘CPU’ inside! Thank you ever so much for all the information.
Hi all....what an accomplishment for your selves and maybe animals and garden! Such a great video. Your own water is epic!! Thanks for allowing all of us to experience this with you. Love from Central Oklahoma
I just installed the same pump at 500' a month ago and couldn't be happier with it. On 240 ac for now and only pulls 1kw where the old 240v Grundfos pulled 2.4kw. Old one was on steel and it went back in the same so it was quite a different experience.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
Fascinating
Another exciting accomplishment!! I always look forward to Sunday to see what’s next.❤
Good morning how are you guys doing today looks like everything is coming together looks like the the will is coming together you guys have a good day and God bless you guys
Incredible to watch this pump install with Boreline hose.......a few questions if I may, 1. what level is your pump at exactly? (how far below 774 feet is the pump). And 2. only one check valve for that complete column of water? When that pump first kicks on with 750+ feet of column pressure it must draw a heck of a load to get it to move that much water. ALSO.....if you were to have to pull your pump for any reason, have you calculated how much weight that the lifting mechanism would be required to pull including all the water in the Boreline hose?
The pump is sitting at 840 feet. All they recommend is one check valve, and from I understand is there aren't any others because there is no water hammer. The hose itself absorbs any water hammer due to its flexibility. The one check valve is just to protect the pumps internal check valve. As far as the weight goes, we're looking at about 800 pounds. Thanks 🙂
@@aboulderlifeoffgrid Was it 800 pounds "dry" when you made the installation? My quick math tells me that your installer guy said 14 minutes to fill the hose to surface, so would it be 14x2 gallons per minute = 28 gallons to fill the hose to surface. Then take 28 gallons which is in the hose and multiply by 8.34 pounds per gallon, which would mean there is only 233 pounds of column water from the pump to surface.....it seems like I lowballed the water weight.
@pauleastend4706 OK, so I just looked up the weights of all the items. And it looks like the weight is more like 700 pounds wet. And that's with rounding up. Thanks 🙂
I live in central oregon and we are on a spring that goes into a 5000 gallon tank, we can easily go all winter with only using about 2500 gallons. In the winter our spring almost completely stops running
You might consider adding a 1/8” weep hole to the base of the vertical that feeds the tank under the frost line instead of a manual drain valve. Backfill with gravel and ground cloth to keep it free of dirt. You will loose a small amount of water when pumping, but it would allow the vertical riser to drain free of water, when freezing temps are present, to prevent the water pipe from freezing and cracking when the pump is off.
But how much freezing temps do they get
Jacob: I have that same pump and I have 4: 200 watt panels that run it, so I'm guessing it takes about 500-600 watts to run that pump.
Congrats on your water ❤
We have always just used black irrigation plastic pipe for wells.
If your well isn't too deep, then irrigation pipe works fine. Thanks 🙂
running black poly pipe at depths beyond 120 feet gets risky due to the high pressures it sees. every 2.31 feet of elevation(depth) is 1psi higher pressure at that point.
alternately 1' of water depth = 0.433 psi. so at 700 feet deep the pressure is extremely high with just water in the line and not pumping (700 x 0.433 = 303.1psi!) add to that any pressure you want it to build into a tank, if it's not free flowing. the calculation starts at whatever the resting/in-use depth of the water is above the pump to the outlet off the well head.
Congrats on the water 💧 system
cool hose for sure
Best investment we ever made. I wouldn't go down well with any other product.
Nice 🙂
❤great progress step. Thanks for sharing🙏🙂
It was probably already mentioned but most "5g" buckets hold more than that . I have measured by weight and have some that hold 6 after you subtract the bucket weight. Pump is probably doing the 3g permin.
How exciting 😊
a bit late now, but you should stagger the wire lengths, so none of the butt connector are aligned and capable of rubbing each other. added insurance. 😉
Interesting method. How do you keep the rock wall of the well from rubbing through where it lays against the rock as all wells have some deviation? In my area we use centering devices to keep our pipe and cable off the rock. It the cable that usually wears through after a few years.
It's in 4.5-inch pvc all the way down. And the pump has a centralizer kit. Thanks 🙂
Helluva job
Awesome milestone to reach
Its getting better on every video xx
congratz! you have a water! ☺
Thanks for sharing
Interesting 👍
If you can have it run on straight solar DC, it would be great to get rid of a conversion loss. But great job.
It looks a lot like a fire hose but smaller around that will be so much easier if you ever had to pull the pump out it doesn't have to be pulled straight up in the air if you wanted you could pull it out by hand 👍
With 770 feet of wet hose you will need mechanical assistance to pull the pump and water weight.
Excellent guys, so happy for you
Last thing is the pump house you got right there next to it. The laundry room and pump house you could actually put solar on top of that to run the pump.
Well done. I mean great job.
😁
Use the well pump to fill your water tank and another high pressure pump to pump your water from the tank to your house!
That is basically our setup right now. We have an on demand pump in that same shed the pumps the storage tank water to our trailer. Thanks 🙂
Grundfos are the number one deep-well pumps. They have long lifespan too
hello I lived off grid in Alaska for 14 years ,because age moved lol anyway I could keep my water tank from freezing in 3 easy steps1 buy pond heater plug in winter kept from freezing neg 40 2 from tank to house take 4 in insulation board, under pipe and on top last was heat tape around pipe of course buried it I will let you know put on same switch as heater so you don't forget I did it once took 2 days using steamer for cloths to un freeze
I have only installed a couple well pumps (both around 200 feet) so had a question here. I don't see a safety cable being installed as a backup if the pump were to fall. I had used PVC and, prior to that, galvanized pipe so both were heavier than Boreline. Is the relatively light weight the reason a safety cable is not used? Other factors? I appreciate seeing this work.
The boreline is the safety rope. It's pretty much impossible for it to break. And yes, it's much lighter than pvc or steel pipe. Thanks 🙂
You got a sawmill builder, dude, like everybody else. Does they build a wooden shed? Around their tank wiping system, and they're all that, and then what they do is insulate it. Then there you go. You got a good clean, warm set up from water.
I know nothing about water-wells. I didn't understand the piping-adapter you first installed in the casing. And I didn't understand
the T-bar installation thing. What is holding up all that weight ? The rigidity of the tubing and the wiring against the casing-wall ?? I didn't understand how you connected it to the plumbing-adapter that you first installed ??
That adapter is called a pitless adapter. It is very hefty and very capable of holding the near 700 pounds of total weight that hangs from it. The T bar is what is used to connect to the adapter to install it or pull it out if needed. There is a lot to learn when it comes to wells. And although I don't know it all, I have learned a lot myself. Thanks 🙂
The fitting is special and holds the piping suspended so it doesn't fall to bottom...as well as passes through the wall of casing. Need to get the water out right? It's normally installed below the frostline of the area so it doesn't freeze. That means it's down in the casing a few feet. So you need the T bar to connect to it and install/remove it.
What are you using in your tank for water treatment to keep the water in your tank from going stagnant? I have a 1500 gal tank and I use a triple-o Ozone system that works great. But I am grid tied so power is not a huge concern.
The tank is designed to block all light from getting in and causing an algae problem. We also already have a three filter plus UV light system in our shed to make the water drinkable. Thanks 🙂
Very awesome!! What do you do to keep from having algae buildup in the tank? Water filtering or treatment?
The tank blocks out all light. We also have three filters and a uv light that the water goes through after the tank. Thanks 🙂
🎉🎉👏👏👍👍Yayyyy!!!
So that pump draws 8.4amps....was your wire size 14/3 (PFB14/3GG) or 12/3 (PFB12/3GG) from Service Wire Company....as I am doing all the research for the 40acres I plan to buy near Seligman Arizona. Your video's are so valuable and I am looking to also do the same thing as I am a General Contractor in Chandler Arizona and will be creating our vacation/retirement property.
The wire was 8/3 because of voltage drop from the length of the wire. In reality, it only needed to be 8/2. We went with one extra wire in the cable because we hope to put a three phase pump in the well in the future when the current pump goes bad. With a three phase, we're hoping to get closer to 10 gallons a minute. Thanks 🙂
Looks like a cool product. So, you don't need a safety rope or torque limiters with the hose? How deep did you set the pump ( 6hp pump)? Thanks for sharing this!
The boreline is the safety rope. It's near impossible for it to break or degrade and break. So since it's a hose, there is no water hammer to worry about since it's flexible and absorbs the water hammer from pump start-up. Torque limiters/check valves are not needed except for one near the pump, which is just for protecting the pump. The pump is set at 840 feet and is only 1 hp. Thanks 🙂
Torque limiters center the pump and line in the well especially near the pump to limit/stop abrasion to the pump, wires and lines especially the wiring. A 1hp pump at 850' of head is amazing!
@rixtrix11 Oh right. There is a torque limiter. It was the black rubber looking thing right near the pump with three fins going around.
"deepness", aka depth. question: i am sure there is restraint but my query is what keeps the pump from rotating when starting (since it is on flexible hose)?i see, since you are letting it pump into the top of the tank, open butt, there is hardly any pressure (other than the head to overcome the depth of the well), therefore there will be very little starting torgue. if i had just been patient and watched! alas!........g
Great question. It is a soft start pump, so it won't ever twist the boreline. Thanks 🙂
I didn't hear the size of storage batteries you had there. I have 5.4kWh of solar and 20kWh of battery backup.
Great job. What size is that well bore, 12"? The large tank and smaller well pump is the way to go. Cheaper initially and cheaper to replace when that day comes. Do you have an inline pump from the tank to the house? Anyway, nice setup.
We have 5 - 100 amp hour batteries. The well casing is 4.5 inch. In our shed, we have an on demand pump. Thanks 🙂
i would have went with Quest pipe. The quest is more rigid and less affected by the pump torque when it turns on and off. Also less stress and wear on your wiring for the same reason
He said 100 years guaranteed for 50 year awesome. Are you going to put a water level in your water barrel if water level goes down the pump will turn on.
Yes, we'll put in some sort of float switch. Thanks 🙂
Expensive roll!
I has my foot valve that close to the pump and it ruined the foot valve in no time at all. Moved the foot valve ten feet above the pump and have had no problem with the foot valve since. Was told it was due to the fast rotation of the water as it left the pump. The fast spinning water would spin the foot valve and wear it out at a rapid pace.
Did you pick a swimming pool spot😊
One question I always have when using hose or poly is how do you get it back out of the well when the hose is full of water? You can’t put it back on a reel.
Yes, you can pull it out with the water in it. It won't hurt anything. Thanks 🙂
@@aboulderlifeoffgrid Thanks. I actually called them and am getting a quote. 👍
You could suction it out if ya wanted to
I wonder what the h20mechanic would say, he uses some flexible pipe for wells like that. I was kinda thinking if you did that trick with the bolts and washers 500 times, you'd lose at least one set down a well... I wonder if a quick release lever would work better?
great to see this. No I LOVE THIS. It is best to use a 2 stage pumping system with solar to maximize energy efficiency. One pump in the well to lift the water, 2-4 g/m to a "cache" tank, non-pressurized like you have already. then a pressurizing pump drawing from the tank. But you knew that already. Installing its OWN set of PV panels and running it on DC, you won't have to turn it on and off. Just let it fill and let the PV panels do the work away from your battery system. I have wanted to have a place and do exactly what you are doing here with the 2 stage pumping, really cool. your tank will fill nicely with rain, snow and well. tank fills and the float switch will stop the well when full. Nicely done. I love solar. I am off grid power 100% March to October, but I am adding more panels for winter support. Lots of sun high in Utah