Troubleshooting The B18 Civics Overheating, Boost Cut, and Digital Display Issues.
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Finally diving into the issues I had at the track. Is it fixed? Seems good on the street, but I have my suspicions the gremlins are not gone.
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Few things:
A. Distilled water only will cause overheating. Adding coolant will actually raise the boiling point which will help with keeping it from over heating. Only water will boil pretty easily. Lol
B. I would suggest using a 170,175 or 180° thermostat. The stock 195(if that’s what’s in it) is too high and once you get over 200° it’s really hard to get the heat out of the cooling system at that point.
C. If you don’t have one, invest in a spal fan and relay it. You can use the factory wiring to turn the relay on and then feed the fan direct battery power which will allow the fan to spin extremely fast and deliver proper cfm to cool down the car. A shroud would help as well but you can get away without it.
D. Wrap your up pipe and wastegate pipe. Those two being extremely close to the rad will heat the coolant up as well which may be the exact reason it heats up so fast. With the d16 turbo ef hatch on my channel these are all issues we ran into and I think you’re getting them too.
Oh one last thing, in the s300 under the online tab I believe there is a test outputs option where you can turn on the fuel pump, the fan, and the boost solenoid. So you don’t have to switch the map to get it to come one!
Hope all of this helps bro! Keep kickin my guy!
Oh yeah and the reason you might be boost cutting at the track is because you have more traction because of the slicks and therefore have more load cause you’re not spinning. If it’s a cooler day you can make an adjustment where the controller will take away some duty cycle to help keep it from boost cutting. Or you could just manually turn the duty cycle down a few percent!
Good luck bro
Get that air directed evenly across that rad an it should make a huge difference
Definitely get a shroud for that fan, if it’s only focusing on one area it’s not gonna be nearly efficient enough to cool it down, try VP’s coolant they have a race ready that is proven to take engine temps down by 30° but it has no “antifreeze” ingredients so not good for winter use. Just food for thought.
Cant beat good old manual gages.
Need to get that fan on the inside an a good shroud around her. Had some issues myself with that. Hence the fact that only the one piece of paper was moving good.
Also you probably aren't hitting boost cut on the street because you are spinning. The slicks are hooking and with the hooking you are putting more load on the engine and creating more boost. Apples to oranges
You want the fan on the engine bay side of the radiator. Try a Spal slim 12" with a shroud or a 13" without a shroud. Have the fan PULL the air through the radiator. Your setup is completely wrong and this is your issue...
I remember dropping my hood on my windshield trying to put on hood risers (in my case, washers). Yes my windshield split lol
I vaguely remember that. lol