Installing PaintPro Trim and AZEK's Board and Batten System (Building Resilience 7)

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PVC moves in response to temperature swings, but it doesn't move like you think it does. To make the movement predictable, Install TIGHT and fasten RIGHT
Small details can cause big water problems like rot and decay
PVC sheets are great for wrapping foundations because they're rated for ground contact
OA decided to build out the base of the wall to mimic the built-out base of the stucco sections, with their signature modern flair.
AZEK sheets are buried in the ground, shimmed straight, and then capped with heavy-gauge metal drip edge flashing, which is being fit by Chris.
Around the corner, Sol and Stephen are leveling the last AZEK sheets and shimming them straight. Chris nails his drip edge in place, and it’s time to put up the corner trims that border the AZEK sheets.
There are outside corners, inside corners, and horizontal channels between the sheets.
This is where the top of the trim band will go, which is being cut right this minute and shaped to butt into the stucco.
The boards are cut to fit tightly, so it needs to be bent out to slip into the channel of the Tamlyn trim.
They’re cut to fit tightly to control shrinkage, which creates the most common installation error and misconception about working with PVC trim.
You can control PVC shrinkage with gaps, glue, and fasteners
We got a description of how that works from Dave Parker, a technical expert with AZEK.
It’s typically not expansion and contraction that people have a bad experience with PVC.
"It’s typically, and all plastics do this-but what happens is after they get up to a hot temperature one time and then they cool back down, and if that happens two or three times, what happens there’s a phenomenon called annealing that takes place with plastics.
So the denser the material, the more movement you’re going to get naturally. Because you’ve got that much more resins in there to absorb that heat, and it’s going to move a lot more.
If we can constrict that PVC so when it goes through that hot to cold cycle, it anneals, and we’re constricting it and holding it in place, we essentially eliminate that annealing.
Because after it does it one time, it doesn’t do it again. So when you get into thicker material like PVC trim in the 4-quarter 5-quarter thickness products, the trick is installation.
And installation plays a key role in limiting the amount of expansion-contraction that you’re going to see.
So the first thing that you do is always fasten the PVC correctly and make sure you’ve got the right number of fasteners in it.
And the second thing is, what we want to do is all of our butt ends or anywhere where we’re butting PVC to PVC; we want to glue those joints."
And before doing that, you have to open the bottle. We’re going to go deeper into preassembling trim later because we are still installing the first piece of trim. These are plugs made from the PaintPro material, so the painters could perfectly match the trim.
Above the bottom trim band is another metal trim, this one shaped like a z-flashing, but it’s not flashing. It’s an architectural element. The wall was already watertight before they installed the SlickerMax.
PVC PaintPro Panels are the base of the AZEK board and batten system
Now we’re ready for full sheets. They’ll begin at the outside corner and work toward the stucco section. So this sheet needs to be cut around the window.
Sol and Stephen work together to transfer measurements and mark the cutouts. First, they cut the sheet to length. Sheets should not bridge floors and should break at the subfloor level.
Next, Sol marks out the window. When he’s sure he’s got his lines in the right place, he reaches for his saw and gets after cutting that sheet.
One thing about cutting PVC trim and sheet stock is all the static cling of the sawdust.
You can fasten PVC trim with exterior trim screws or siding nails
On the first wall, the guys used screws to attach the sheets to the wall, but because there is a drainage mesh rainscreen material behind the sheets, the screws pull the sheets in and compress the rainscreen.
It’s okay with Cortex screws because the double threading allows you to back them out slightly and perfectly align the sheets, so they switched to using a coil nailer with ring-shank siding nails.
After all, the sheets are only fastened along the edges where battens will go later. So as long as the nails are within an inch of the edge, they’ll be covered.
Panels are gapped about an ⅛ inch for movement, and with any luck, that gap is where the batten screws will land.
Up on the top section, where the rainscreen is incompressible plastic battens, they use screws again.
Glue scarf joints with AZEK PVC cement to control movement
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Nice video.