Code says #14 wire is good for 20 amps but needs to be protected by max. 15 amp breaker, however there is an exception for motors for inrush where the breaker can be larger than the wire provided the wire is at least 125% of full load amps. Therefore #14 is good for a 16 FLA motor. The #10 feed from the panel is a good idea for voltage drop. So BendPak’s engineering is completely sound, FYI I have done electrical engineering for 40 years - just a few more to go. I installed the exact same lift this year 2017 and for the power feed used #14 SO cord inside the right post along with the limit switch SO cord provided by Bendpak. This way I have just a little exposed wiring dropping from the ceiling to the top of the right post. For the side clearance issue have you considered welding or bolting a new bracket for the hydraulic unit? I agree that that clearance would grow old fast. You could fabricate a 30-degree bracket and mount to the existing one?
Thank you for your explanation. This makes the wiring make much more sense. The tech person I dealt with at Bendpak literally said, engineering says it's fine but you can change wire sizes if you want. I don't deal with electrical code a ton so, thank you for sharing your knowledge. As far as the mount for the power unit mounting, I can walk passed it so its not a major inconvience for me. I'm sure it may completely screw someone out there. After spending 3000 on a lift I shouldn't have to break out a welder and make a new mount or modify their mount to fix something that never should have been an issue in the first place. Especially after you consider the fact I already had to replace both of their leaking cylinders.
Repair Geek It's not there fault your shop is small you should have caught that your nit picking. As for the paint I would not care it's a tool it will not a reason to make sure big deal over it. $3.000.00 good deal.
I’ve had my BendPak XPR 10A in use for about five years now. I’ll pass along a few things I’ve learned along the way. Concrete anchor mounting bolts: Don’t do these half ass'ed. Make sure the bolts go to the specified depth and carefully install them. If you can install the bolts before the towers then lift the towers over the bolts, all the better. If not, make sure you blow out the concrete dust from the holes to ensure the lead anchors take a bite. Equalizing cables: When setting these up try to tension them the same. Initially, I thought I had mine tight enough but they weren’t. The factory rep told me to get them nearly banjo string tight. Check them for stretch after a few cycles, then once or twice a year thereafter. Lube them completely once a year with a spray lube specifically made for wire rope; same goes for the cable pulley sheaves. Lift arms: After setting up your lift, raise the arms w/ no load about four feet off the ground and using a long enough level, check to see if the bubble level is centered on both front and rear lift arms. Keep adjusting your equalizing cables until your arms are level. Lightly lube the telescoping portions of your lift arms. Safety locks: Make ABSOLUTELY SURE your safety locks are engaging on both carriages. Do this by raising the lifting arms above the click for the first lock (but below the second) then slowly lowering the carriage on to the locks. If one side droops, does not engage the lock or does not come level, you’ve got a problem. Usually it will be the tension on the safety lock operating cable, which is only about 1/8” wire cable going to both sides. Regardless, determine the reason why the safety lock is not engaging and correct. Do the same procedure for each engagement of the safety locks all the way up the towers. You do not want to find out the hard way when you try to lower a vehicle on to the locks that one side of the vehicle sinks 3 or 4 inches lower than the other…. your heart will stop! Hydraulic oil and tank: Buy and use the highest quality oil you can find. Oil is cheaper than pumps or cylinders. I strongly suggest you brightly label your oil reservoir tank with a “NO PUSH” label on each side as someone will inevitably try to push against this plastic jug filled with oil to steady themselves while they’re crawling from under a vehicle only to have it break away from the pump housing. Upper Crossover brace: Throw away the crummy grade zero bolts that came with the lift and use grade 8 bolts with nylock nuts to join the two halves of the metal brace. Carriages: Get at least 2 or 3 tubes of high quality white lithium grease, wear some rubber gloves and thoroughly grease the inside channels (front and back) where the carriage rides. Cycle the carriages up and down a few times w/ no load and look for areas that you missed. Do this once a year.
I forgot to mention that the smartest investment you can make once you have your lift set up is to buy a couple of Two Ton Capacity Underhoist Safety Stands. Harbor Freight and others have them for around $75. They will steady a vehicle fore and aft if your weight distribution changes (like removing a trans) and are very useful for safely relieving springs under tension if you need to do suspension work. Lifts are great as long as you ALWAYS keep SAFETY foremost in mind.
Really impressed with your video and off to watch more, no background music/noises, to the point, no screaming, this is what makes you and ChrisFix great vids. Just purchased a BendPak three days ago and excited now even more thanks to your clip.
I'm in the market for a lift. How do I find what improvements have been made to the design since this video was created 3 years ago? What justification is there for the $800 price increase?
@@RapscallionStallion ive gotten questions over the years and I've found out that like you've said they've made revisions but, at least from what I've seen they haven't changed the instructions to reflect the changes. So people reach out to me because bendpak can't be bothered to revise the instructions at least as of about a year ago. Perfect example: Had a guy reach out to me about how to hook up the wiring. From what he stated he had no relay in the peckerhead on the motor. So, I have a relay, the instructions show a relay, and person in question doesn't have one... Guy calls bendalk, they tell him that they don't use a relay anymore and just wire the power right to the button. How is someone NOT going to question a missing relay when it's in the instructions?
Your comments and observations are not nitpicky in the slightest. This is a purchase you've made and are demonstrating your observations and opinions and they are valid and appreciated
I have two Bend Pacs in my backyard hobby shop. When a ram started leaking they wanted to sell me a whole new ram. No parts available from them. Found the correct seal and repaired for about ten bucks. They work sweet. Pit is real nice too
Ordered the taller version of this lift yesterday for my home shop. Thanks for putting these videos together as now I have an idea of what I'm getting into.
Excellent Video. When ever you say, "Now bear with me here for a minute," ..you always had something legit that needed it's subtleties explained. Also, I'm guessing you have a very Smart Lawyer in your family because your Disclaimer is Awesomely Epic. It's very well written.
Your reasons for choosing BendPak are very well thought out and make a lot of sense. I am dying to get a lift... I just don’t have the space yet. Whenever I do, I’m using the same logic.
I install and service lifts for a living and have found that Bends Pak lifts are cheap, subpar, Chinese lifts. Cheap power unit, poor quality hydraulic cylinders that often leak out of the vent, customer service is terrible, have found holes drilled in the wrong spots, taps broken off in holes, bad welds, parts welded in the wrong spots, missing parts, crap anchor bolts, lifts moan and groan like crazy, and are horribly slow. If you decide to cheap out on a lift I suggest a Forward lift (they are a cheaper line owned by Rotary Lift). However Mohawk and Rotary lifts are the best. Followed by Challenger. A few other poo poo lifts to also stay away from are atlas and Danmar.
thanks for the great review , I'm really lost with the XPR-10 models , we work on trucks and SUV's in my shop , but want to add some services for the small and lux vehicles , the XPR-10A-LP might just be the one I buy.
As you know I said we purchased an XPR-9s. EVERYTHING... you complained about in the video... everything I had the same concerns about. First lock is too high, my screw pads were way too tight (had to take them apart and file the threads and coated them in 90 weight oil) The smaller gauge wiring going inside the pump, being scratched up when it arrived (it was pretty beat up however It was in better shape than I thought it would be) we have the symmetrical lift and we have it bolted down so close to our shop bench you can't walk around it, we did this to not crowd up the other side of our garage and that's ok (sucks but its ok) I did take notice of the welds as well. Had trouble finding a 25 amp breaker so we did 10-2 with a 30 amp. We have about $3500 in all materials, ATF, wiring, grease, breakers all said and done. We installed a "Kill switch" on the pillar above the pump as well (a square D box with another breaker inside it) So we wouldn't have to run to the main breaker box if something stupid happen. All that said I'm pretty happy with it.. but still Leary about a car being that high because I'm not 100% use to it yet. I'm always pulling out the level checking the pillars lol... they are always square. In a month and a half we probably used it a dozen or so times. It's amazing how much easier the lock release works if you coat ALL the cables in 90 wt oil. I cut the top off a pop can and put 90wt and used a small brush to coat the cables as to try and not make a mess, same thing with greasing the inside corners inside the lift pillars. Ours says on a sticker on the lift, the equalizer cables should be coated with 90wt. I'm pretty close to feeling like the lift has already paid for itself. I've had no leaks either so far, although you can bet I'll be watching. Great video and thanks.
The more you use it the more you will trust it. Wait until you put something large on it. I can feel the columns shift slightly as the vehicle is lowered and your hand its holding the lock release.
I never heard "cheap" and "Fluke" in the same sentence! Good video. I disagree with your "1st lock too high" comment. Locks are to rest weight, yes, but obviously mainly a safety consideration. If the lift fails catastrophically from such a short height, so what? The car fell 10"! I can't see that being disastrous. Still, good video. I am an old guy and I am always impressed by guys so young who really have their act together. Best wishes from Michigan.
I totally agree with you on the height of the first lock. I have a rotary and have to say I love it, but its the same. First lock kicks in at about 2 feet. When I'm doing a timing belt for example, I have to leave it sit below the lock which is leaving a lot of pressure on the hydraulics. Definitely not nit picking with that one, thats a legitimate fault.
Good Job on the review, I strongly agree about a company standing behind their product right away without argument. I'm convinced, I'm buying a BendPak.
Great video and update.... never an issue if you rack storage one for days... done it many just left them on them on the locks... Surprised how the wide position gives a lot of room to open the doors compared to a few other brands I have use over the years at dealers
After having one in the wide position I wouldn't want a narrow for sure. A narrow would be tight driving a full size truck into it. You would definitely have to pay more attention to not drive over the arms.
I lowered my C5 on the factory bolts. Floor to rocker panel is 3 3/4". I'd definitely need to run it up on 2x10's in order to get the arms under it. Good to know!
Thanks for these videos, been a big help as I install mine! Also your offside post safety cable in not installed correctly. If you pause at 8:16 the cable is supposed to loop around the short post you have it over and then the loop goes onto the longer rod between the spring and the welded metal post bar. If you haven't had any issues with it so far then prob ok to leave it...but I wanted to let you know
I like to use my lift below the first lock and my lift tends to drift down faster than it should, so I cut two pieces of 6x6 to put under the carriages for that purpose.
nothing picky about it ,they will start making them that way,you our making some great points , not only that , should have lower for taking off tires so you dont have to lift up 2 ft, you did a great job on explaining your self ,well done,much appreciated, bendpak needs to send you top of the line hoist ,with a thank you for selling their hoist ,because im buying one as well, thx
Kimberlee Ellison thanks for the complements. I was researching lifts as well before before I bought mine and could not find any detailed information. Mostly just large RUclipsrs or vlogs saying this thing is great for 20 minutes and no real substance. I don’t need another lift but, if Bendpak sent me a check refunding the cost of the one I bought, I wouldn’t say no haha. Check out the other parts if you need assembly or repair help. Thanks for watching.
Ive always figured that BendPac gave a lot of them away as you always see them on all the television shows as well i guess its smart marketing on their part And i tend to agree that they will be the easier one to find parts for in the years to come over all the other “brands “ selling 2 post lifts that do appear to be all made in the same factory in China and rebranded under numerous names and colors
I have my lift on order... I'm having the local dealer install, so hopefully that minimizes my chances of bad cylinders. In reference to the wiring, my dealer advised me to run a 20 amp 240 service to the area. A 12-2 run would be sufficient for that load. What I find odd is that I bought a qt-5 Quincy compressor and I'm in the process of wiring it up. They call for a 60 amp breaker on it, which would require 6-2. I did the same thing you did and looked at the wiring inside.. To my surprise, they are running #10 wire to the motor. Very similar situation you are seeing with the lift.
I think my cylinders are just manufacturing defects. I don't think the install had to do with them leaking. Hopefully you won't have any issues. As far as the compressor, the in-rush current will be higher. For example, starting it up in a cold garage in the winter. #6 seems like overkill not to mention cost a small fortune in wire. I would try #8 on a 40 amp breaker. Mostly because the internal wiring like you said is #10.
Repair Geek definitely manufacturing defects... Just saying, with them installing they may catch something like that upfront and able to resolve it for me, rather than it being on me to deal with bendpak and replacing myself. My materials are bought for the compressor and I'll be putting in the 60 amp circuit. Just pointing out that what you saw with this lift seems common. Quincy has a strong reputation and they do it too.
Check the motor plate they will always tell you the voltage and full load current and horsepower among other info most lifts are two to three hp so a full load current rating of 15amps or so at 220v is going to be pretty common.
Thanks for the videos on the lift install. I'm about to install a Danmar which is the same lift as bendpak, made by bendpak. Took away several tips from your videos. Thanks for putting it out there...
I'm ready to wire this thing up, do u have any pics of the wiring arrangement in the lift motor case? The schematic is a little confusing to me and they had a pigtail wired into the relay that I do not believe follows the schematic. Just looking for a double check before I flip the breaker and hit the button.
I' ve had mine 2 years now. I have two complaints.....first is that I was not informed the LP arms were shorter. Secondly, when lowering a vehicle the motor starts pulling away from the steel beam
Love my mohawk.... and while I haven’t seen their website... but I highly doubt that they took apart a Mohawk.... Mohawks construction pretty much embarrasses everyone else’s construction
I've had one for about 6 years now, material is thicker them ,which is good I've had two weld fails so far, but then hey what do you expect, it's made in China! Great for the price, just don't expect it to last forever .
I agree ,the 1st set of locks need to be lower and also more travel after the last set of locks. I had it happen 1 time the top lock on the 1 side didn't unlatch properly and the car started coming down only on 1 side.....very scary.....be careful with that.
The equalizing cables will keep one side from moving without the other. One side will drop but, only until the cable is tensioned. I've had that situation happen as well.
Thanks for all your efforts and videos. They were instrumental in helping me overcome BendPak's deficient instructions when installing my XPR-10. You saved me weeks of additional grief. < My experience was the same as yours with bad parts, scratches, missing key details in the instructions, etc. No need to sweat the 14 gauge wires as code for wires in appliances (along the end part of the run) is different than that for wires in the wall. Check out your shop vac power cord and the same thing is going on.
I realize these videos are a little long for most people but, for people like you that actually assemble one of these the length and detail helps greatly. Glad I could help you out. Thanks for watching.
Lol don't hate on my Craftsman box. Its not the nicest thing out there but for my home use its great. I'm starting to out grow it though. A bigger box might be coming in the future.. Thanks for watching.
Very interesting video for me as I am getting ready to buy a lift. I like your style and level of detail so I am subscribing. Hopefully my subscription will push you over the amount needed to get free lifts!
Good video. I wouldn't consider any of your feedback nitpicking. After all, you paid full price therefore you're more than welcome to be nitpicky if you choose so.
What were you expecting from products made in USA and China anyway? Have you driven your Pinto lately? Yes, memories of this was so short. Good luck with your Mustbang.
Thanks for the video..I to live in ohio...I was looking at the one you have..probably going to buy it new...I was wondering on your concrete thickness...I've drilled a few holes and I come up with 6 inchs...what did you have in your garage?.I have 12 foot ceilings ...thanks you
Thanks for doing this series. I have been looking at BENDPAK lifts to install in my garage. Mine is quite a bit larger than yours, so clearance issues won't matter as much to me. The only thing I'm going to have to do is upgrade the concrete floor. I'm thinking a 12k lift so I can raise F-350 dually diesels, but my floor is only 3 1/2 inches, not thick enough.
Yeah the largest I've lifted was a 3500 Dodge megacab short box 4x4 with a Cummins in it. That for me was about the limit. Lifting that much weight getting the vehicle balanced is critical. Don't skimp on the floor. Once the lift is up it's hard to go back and redo the floor. Thanks for watching.
When your warranty runs out start getting your seal kits and other items from All Parts Supply in Texas way cheaper than going thru Bend Pak or Rotary and just as durable I work for a company that fixes lifts and we have never had an issue at all with any of the items we get from them.....only on repair parts as far as motors stay with maker of course
I just received a XPR 10 AS today, the manual says it requires a 20 amp circuit. When I was looking at lifts and decided on this one a few months ago the description said 20 amp circuit. I don't know if they just recently changed that, I picked out this lift before I even built the barn so ran a 20 amp circuit to my planned lift location when I was wiring the barn.
Question. I was at my local dump and on the scale during exit my power stroke truck was 8220 lbs. That’s with me and two sand bags included ... With me out of it (200#) and the two sand bags out of the bed (120#) and then go from half a tank of diesel to a full tank of diesel (+107#), it would be around ~8000 lbs on the lift. Would a 9,000 lbs lift be okay? 1,000 lbs of buffer should be fine right? I’ll never have a shell on it nor will I keep lots of heavy equipment in it. This F250 will be the heaviest thing I’ll ever lift. The other two vehicles I’ll be lifting are a F150 5.5’ bed and a BMW sedan. Thanks for your input. I need a clear top lift (hose and chain on floor) and not interested in a “hose and chain over top” lift. I am 6’6” tall and need that truck in the air. So can’t do a XPR 10000.
Thanks for the review and all the other videos. I have this lift sitting in my garage ready to assemble. I had bought it prior to finding your videos but you really give me a good idea as to what to expect. I do have a question if its not to much trouble. I'm debating on the wide or narrow configuration. I have a 3 bay garage, vaulted ceiling, with a 6x6 post between each bay. The 6x6 posts are only 142" apart (inside). I can move them the additional 3". But they already need to be moved in because they are in the outside bays as it is. Another 3" would be really close to any vehicle parked in the outer bay. I'm wondering how wide is the space between the arms and between the columns on yours. I can do the math to see if the narrow will be too narrow. I have a lowered Camaro and will probably have some trucks on it at some point. its just a home use lift. Don't want to set it to the narrow config and then it not work very well for what I'm using it for. Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
My main issue regarding the width has actually been on trucks. Some of the frames are so narrow that the front arms are extended all the way out to catch the frame. So getting the vehicle in exactly the center is critical to getting it up in the air otherwise, one of the arms won't reach. New body style Ram 1500s are probably the worst I've come across. Again I have the LP arms. I think the standard arms are longer. On the other hand I've had large 3/4 and 1 ton trucks on this thing that I don't know that I could have opened the door on them to get out if I had set it up narrow. The distance between the inside of the posts is: 104 inches. That is baseplate to baseplate. Inside. I have my Mustang in the air prepping for power tour right now so I can't get you a distance between the arms.
@@RepairGeek Thanks for the quick response. I also have LP arms. what you mention is reassuring. My vehicles are smaller vehicles anyway. I didn't want to run into a situation where I wouldn't be able to fit something in the narrow config that was a practical vehicle to own. I know the newer trucks are quite wide and taller than some of the older trucks. thanks again for the reply.
No problem! Appreciate the reply and honesty. Wasn't sure if you would have had the chance to check one out. Your unit still going strong? Looking at the budget 7K and 9K pound lifts for a home gamer like me, I'm coming to the same conclusions as you. Doesn't seem to make sense to save $1,000 at the risk of lower quality and worse colustomer service.
@@802Garage it's still working. The replacement cylinders have a slow leaks as well. Benpak offered to come and fix it for me for free but I refused. The leak is slow and I can rebuild by old cylinders for a video in the future. Structurally it's been perfect.
@@RepairGeek I am a Certified ALI Inspector and installer of all brand of lifts. Both Bend Pak lifts our company installed in the last few months have cylinder issues. Not seal issues, cylinder weld issues. Inspect it closely and make a sure decision before passing on a new cylinder. Note: both new lifts were 4 post lifts, not 2 post lifts.
Hey man, great videos. Very informative. I'm looking for a lift for my garage and this helped a lot. One question though, I need to know where you got your shop table. That thing is Legit! Keep up the good work.
Bryan Dahlberg I bought it during a father's day sale last year from Sears. It's a Craftsman. It's made by Waterloo (they sell it under their name as well) and made in the USA. I paid $350 for it. Regular price is in the $600 range. It's about 2 inch particle board wrapped in 20 gauge or so stainless steel. You can't weld on it because of the particle board bottom but for general repair it's great. It probably weighs 175lbs without the vice. The bench is item#: 114523. The only one you will find that's better is one you custom built yourself. Glad you like the videos. I'm just recording stuff I'm going to do out in my garage anyways. I'm just glad people are actually watching. Haha.
I have three rotary they are awesome. I have one Atlas that we're getting rid of 6 years it is plumb wore out. we are buying a new mohawk they are expensive but nice
Mohawk is the finest lift you can buy. There's a reason they warranty their lift for 25 yrs. Take a look at the construction and it's obvious. Using 3/4 steel for everything, incuding the base plates which are 20 x 30" The channel is fork lift steel. No plastic, no hoses, no cables, nada. I would buy a used Mohawk System 1 over anything out there.
I might have missed it but how wide is your garage? How much space did you end up with from the centerline of the posts to the studs? Thanks for sharing some great info!
Excellent video. I'm not clear if Bendpak have their own dedicated factory in China which solely manufacture lifts for Bendpak, or are they manufactured in a factory which manufactures lifts for others (or be it to different specifications). The difficulty with Chinese manufactured product is future proofing spare parts availability. I say this because retailers tend to move from Chinese factory to Chinese factory dependant on price per unit, supply problems and quality control issues. As you say, the chances of spare parts back up in 10 years time is questionable from an unbranded product. I'm hoping to buy a base plate 2 poster and have been looking at so many different brands of lift. I am currently trying to decide between a Twin Busch and a Bendpak (both manufactured in china but to German / American specifications respectively. The Twin Busch does seem to offer the better spec and value for money so tending towards a 242Eat the moment.............
Found them via the internet. I'd certainly not heard of them before. They seem to be quite a big company. My nearest British dealer is 150 plus miles away so not seen their stuff in the flesh. They are international and there is an American retailer. What I like particularly like is that the delivery lorry has a forklift so will off load the lift straight into the garage. Quite a few RUclips video on them onwww.twinbusch.de/index.php?language=en
The truck wouldnt shake on the lift if it was set correctly, needs to be about a foot farther forward and space the arms out more to more evenly distribute the weight on the arms.
Manufacturers rate their appliance how they want. Ever wire a waterheater? Same deal. 10-2 wire to the unit, and you connect it to much smaller wires inside.
Amish. The door was framed before the floor was poured. The door was framed too low they had to raise it. That wall isn't load bearing. I'm not worried about it.
At 7mins you say how the lift controls come out farther just wondering how wide is your lift overall I know you can do the 12 foot wide which is widest lift can be installed....so I should say think cause how the post are angled and the control unit?
I'm considering the 13' version of this lift. I own the same truck as you. How bouncy is this lift with that truck on it? I'm referring to the movement in the uprights themselves when you're breaking bolts loose, etc. I have a challenger 10k at my parents house (ALI certified rack) and there is WAY too much movement for my liking. I wish I would have known before buying that lift. I'm hoping the bendpak is more ridgid and am wanting to know about this factor before purchasing one for my house.
I don't have a Challenger to compare to but, it does move. If you grab the rear bumper and give it a firm push up or down with one hand, it's going to shake the truck. The longer the vehicle the greater the effect because you have more leverage over the lift with a longer vehicle. I don't feel like it's excessive. I've used Rotary lifts in the past and they are the same way. At the end of the day, get a decent pole jack, put it under the hitch, buy whatever lift you like, and you'll never have an issue with shaking.
@@RepairGeek I'm a technician and have been the past 12 years, so I'm aware of and not concerned about that. I'm concerned about the lateral movement of the lift (say, if you're breaking loose a lower control arm bolt with a breaker bar). My challenger basically comes out-of-square when having to pull or hammer on something perpendicular to the car. We both live in Ohio, the land of rust, so using excessive force is inevitable.
@@RepairGeek the vehicle doesn't shift, the lift itself wobbles laterally much more than the Ben Pearson 9,000 lb asymmetrical racks at work. But there are various things I dont like about the Ben Pearsons. The bendpak seems to hit all points in what I want, I just hope it's a ridgid lift.
This may have been asked already but I'm not reading through a million comments. Do you think its possible that the automatic transmission fluid is what caused your cylinder failure? I know its very corrosive and has a different pH than hydraulic fluid. That or moving the cylinders with air without fluid on the seals. Just a thought.
Doubtful. The instructions give you the choice of ATF or hydraulic oil. I chose atf because of the red dye. As far as the air moving the cylinders, I doubt it. The cylinders were pressure tested at the factory with oil. I had hydraulic oil coming out of the line after I ran them with air. Thanks for watching.
I like the center under the roof for lift highth but I wouldn't make myself a confined space. I would have a minimum of two spaces unless it is just storage for two cars in one spot. I have reason to believe that removing large pieces off a vehicle need the extra space for a pallet jack or whatever needs taken off to repair as in welding n replacement need room for any parts to be switch swapped. The switch at the top of the lift is so you don't lift the rig into a obstruction or bend up your rig that you work on and possibly tip the rig into something... loses something in the wording
Long story short, the door was framed in too low. When the floor was poured I was going to have a step down out the door. That was a no go for me. They had to raise the door. It's not a load bearing wall. it's been fine.
Spec called for min of 4.25 3000psi concrete with rebar @12” centers. What is your concrete? Also I didn’t see any recommendations for proposed modifications to existing concrete that first meet there min. Any advise would be great
Please help. I'm in between getting a bendpak like yours and a challenger cl10v3 I want more space to open doors when in-between colums are you familiar with challenger life. Please help me decide thank you
I've got a quick question, you mentioned that the center of the post is 10' from your bench, assuming its 2' deep that's 12' from the wall, with your truck on the lift how much room is there to walk between the front bumper of your truck and the bench? I'm about to install a lift of my own and I want to make sure I'll have enough room to swing a cherry picker around and be able to pull an engine without running it into the wall. thanks!
my house that I bought a few yrs ago came with a bendpak 2 post lift. I use it with friends once every few months. is it ok to store a car on the lift for an extended period of time in order to park another one below?
It's the same. New cylinders are leaking as well. I called them out on FB about a year ago because they started bragging about having a less than 1% failure rate on cylinders. I simply stated that can't be true because every cylinder I have leaks. They offered to send another set and send a tech out to install them. I refused. Not wanting to have 6 leaking cylinders on my hands instead of the 4 I currently have. The leaks are VERY small but annoying none the less. I may rebuild a set myself and make a video about how to rebuild them. The lift works well and always feels safe but, if your looking for a show piece this isn't it. Their packaging will tear up the lift before you ever lay a finger on it.
@@RepairGeek , I am thinking about pulling the trigger on the XPR10-XLS model for the additional rise height. Would you say Bendpak isn't any better than some of the other Chinese lifts out there? The only other 2 lifts I found that have higher than normal rise height were Amgo OHX-10H, and Stratus Lift C10E. But they aren't well known brand names, and not a lot of feedback out there. Don't wanna pay an extra 41500-$2000 for the Bendpak if it isn't any better! Just curious of your thoughts?
Hello Repair Geek: Do you think that your lift could work on a 2004 GMC 4x4 crew cab duramax diesel sort bed ? Thanks I have to agree with you on the height that the locks first engauge Great video by the way
You won't have an issue. My neighbor has a 2015 GMC 2500hd crew cab, short box, 4x4, Duramax. I Fluid Film'ed it for him. It went to full height with no issue. With an asymmetric lift the overhead limit switch is over the windshield. You won't have any issues as long as it's balanced correctly and your shop is large enough.
If that is a big deal I would call around to the different lift manufactures and find out what that height spec is. Finding specific info on that won't be easy to find on the internet.
I’m curious if the white ford truck you had on your lift can be lifted to full lift height or does it come in contact with the crossover brace before full lift?
It will go up to full height. The overhead ends up over top of the windshield because the lift is an asymmetric model. Mini vans or large SUV's will hit my garage door when I have the door open. With the door shut I have no issue. I haven't had anything touch the overhead on the lift, even at full height.
I might have missed it in the previous videos, but how wide is your garage? I would like to build a garage with a segregated lift area that is 16x32 but I'm concerned that 16' might not be wide enough. Thanks, man!
Code says #14 wire is good for 20 amps but needs to be protected by max. 15 amp breaker, however there is an exception for motors for inrush where the breaker can be larger than the wire provided the wire is at least 125% of full load amps. Therefore #14 is good for a 16 FLA motor. The #10 feed from the panel is a good idea for voltage drop. So BendPak’s engineering is completely sound, FYI I have done electrical engineering for 40 years - just a few more to go. I installed the exact same lift this year 2017 and for the power feed used #14 SO cord inside the right post along with the limit switch SO cord provided by Bendpak. This way I have just a little exposed wiring dropping from the ceiling to the top of the right post.
For the side clearance issue have you considered welding or bolting a new bracket for the hydraulic unit? I agree that that clearance would grow old fast. You could fabricate a 30-degree bracket and mount to the existing one?
Thank you for your explanation. This makes the wiring make much more sense. The tech person I dealt with at Bendpak literally said, engineering says it's fine but you can change wire sizes if you want. I don't deal with electrical code a ton so, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
As far as the mount for the power unit mounting, I can walk passed it so its not a major inconvience for me. I'm sure it may completely screw someone out there. After spending 3000 on a lift I shouldn't have to break out a welder and make a new mount or modify their mount to fix something that never should have been an issue in the first place. Especially after you consider the fact I already had to replace both of their leaking cylinders.
Nice job with the NEC Gary!
I don't suppose you replace all the 14-16 gauge cords to your lamps when you plug them into a 20 amp outlet? lol.
Repair Geek It's not there fault your shop is small you should have caught that your nit picking. As for the paint I would not care it's a tool it will not a reason to make sure big deal over it. $3.000.00 good deal.
Wire gage is set for continuous duty. 14 is plenty for 6amps. A short run has less voltage drop so less heat in the wire needs to be managed.
I’ve had my BendPak XPR 10A in use for about five years now. I’ll pass along a few things I’ve learned along the way.
Concrete anchor mounting bolts: Don’t do these half ass'ed. Make sure the bolts go to the specified depth and carefully install them. If you can install the bolts before the towers then lift the towers over the bolts, all the better. If not, make sure you blow out the concrete dust from the holes to ensure the lead anchors take a bite.
Equalizing cables: When setting these up try to tension them the same. Initially, I thought I had mine tight enough but they weren’t. The factory rep told me to get them nearly banjo string tight. Check them for stretch after a few cycles, then once or twice a year thereafter. Lube them completely once a year with a spray lube specifically made for wire rope; same goes for the cable pulley sheaves.
Lift arms: After setting up your lift, raise the arms w/ no load about four feet off the ground and using a long enough level, check to see if the bubble level is centered on both front and rear lift arms. Keep adjusting your equalizing cables until your arms are level. Lightly lube the telescoping portions of your lift arms.
Safety locks: Make ABSOLUTELY SURE your safety locks are engaging on both carriages. Do this by raising the lifting arms above the click for the first lock (but below the second) then slowly lowering the carriage on to the locks. If one side droops, does not engage the lock or does not come level, you’ve got a problem. Usually it will be the tension on the safety lock operating cable, which is only about 1/8” wire cable going to both sides. Regardless, determine the reason why the safety lock is not engaging and correct. Do the same procedure for each engagement of the safety locks all the way up the towers.
You do not want to find out the hard way when you try to lower a vehicle on to the locks that one side of the vehicle sinks 3 or 4 inches lower than the other…. your heart will stop!
Hydraulic oil and tank: Buy and use the highest quality oil you can find. Oil is cheaper than pumps or cylinders. I strongly suggest you brightly label your oil reservoir tank with a “NO PUSH” label on each side as someone will inevitably try to push against this plastic jug filled with oil to steady themselves while they’re crawling from under a vehicle only to have it break away from the pump housing.
Upper Crossover brace: Throw away the crummy grade zero bolts that came with the lift and use grade 8 bolts with nylock nuts to join the two halves of the metal brace.
Carriages: Get at least 2 or 3 tubes of high quality white lithium grease, wear some rubber gloves and thoroughly grease the inside channels (front and back) where the carriage rides. Cycle the carriages up and down a few times w/ no load and look for areas that you missed. Do this once a year.
I forgot to mention that the smartest investment you can make once you have your lift set up is to buy a couple of Two Ton Capacity Underhoist Safety Stands. Harbor Freight and others have them for around $75. They will steady a vehicle fore and aft if your weight distribution changes (like removing a trans) and are very useful for safely relieving springs under tension if you need to do suspension work. Lifts are great as long as you ALWAYS keep SAFETY foremost in mind.
@@Boudreaux641 Great idea. I hadn't thought of that.
What a guy. Thanks for this
Really impressed with your video and off to watch more, no background music/noises, to the point, no screaming, this is what makes you and ChrisFix great vids. Just purchased a BendPak three days ago and excited now even more thanks to your clip.
Haha I'm no Chrisfix but thanks for watching.
Great Job on the video. We are proud to have you as a customer.
I'm in the market for a lift. How do I find what improvements have been made to the design since this video was created 3 years ago? What justification is there for the $800 price increase?
@@RapscallionStallion ive gotten questions over the years and I've found out that like you've said they've made revisions but, at least from what I've seen they haven't changed the instructions to reflect the changes.
So people reach out to me because bendpak can't be bothered to revise the instructions at least as of about a year ago. Perfect example: Had a guy reach out to me about how to hook up the wiring. From what he stated he had no relay in the peckerhead on the motor. So, I have a relay, the instructions show a relay, and person in question doesn't have one... Guy calls bendalk, they tell him that they don't use a relay anymore and just wire the power right to the button. How is someone NOT going to question a missing relay when it's in the instructions?
I’ve had a bend pak 4 post 12K lift for 21 years and it still works perfectly! Looking to purchase a 12K 2 post lift for my garage in the next year!
Your comments and observations are not nitpicky in the slightest. This is a purchase you've made and are demonstrating your observations and opinions and they are valid and appreciated
Thanks for an honest review. Tired of bias reviews for these
I have two Bend Pacs in my backyard hobby shop. When a ram started leaking they wanted to sell me a whole new ram. No parts available from them. Found the correct seal and repaired for about ten bucks. They work sweet. Pit is real nice too
Ordered the taller version of this lift yesterday for my home shop. Thanks for putting these videos together as now I have an idea of what I'm getting into.
Excellent Video. When ever you say, "Now bear with me here for a minute," ..you always had something legit that needed it's subtleties explained. Also, I'm guessing you have a very Smart Lawyer in your family because your Disclaimer is Awesomely Epic. It's very well written.
Your reasons for choosing BendPak are very well thought out and make a lot of sense.
I am dying to get a lift... I just don’t have the space yet. Whenever I do, I’m using the same logic.
Thank you for your honesty. Your right on point!
I install and service lifts for a living and have found that Bends Pak lifts are cheap, subpar, Chinese lifts. Cheap power unit, poor quality hydraulic cylinders that often leak out of the vent, customer service is terrible, have found holes drilled in the wrong spots, taps broken off in holes, bad welds, parts welded in the wrong spots, missing parts, crap anchor bolts, lifts moan and groan like crazy, and are horribly slow. If you decide to cheap out on a lift I suggest a Forward lift (they are a cheaper line owned by Rotary Lift). However Mohawk and Rotary lifts are the best. Followed by Challenger. A few other poo poo lifts to also stay away from are atlas and Danmar.
Installed one in my shop 3.5 years ago same model really good lift no problems gets used everyday many times
thanks for the great review , I'm really lost with the XPR-10 models , we work on trucks and SUV's in my shop , but want to add some services for the small and lux vehicles , the XPR-10A-LP might just be the one I buy.
As you know I said we purchased an XPR-9s. EVERYTHING... you complained about in the video... everything I had the same concerns about. First lock is too high, my screw pads were way too tight (had to take them apart and file the threads and coated them in 90 weight oil) The smaller gauge wiring going inside the pump, being scratched up when it arrived (it was pretty beat up however It was in better shape than I thought it would be) we have the symmetrical lift and we have it bolted down so close to our shop bench you can't walk around it, we did this to not crowd up the other side of our garage and that's ok (sucks but its ok) I did take notice of the welds as well. Had trouble finding a 25 amp breaker so we did 10-2 with a 30 amp. We have about $3500 in all materials, ATF, wiring, grease, breakers all said and done. We installed a "Kill switch" on the pillar above the pump as well (a square D box with another breaker inside it) So we wouldn't have to run to the main breaker box if something stupid happen. All that said I'm pretty happy with it.. but still Leary about a car being that high because I'm not 100% use to it yet. I'm always pulling out the level checking the pillars lol... they are always square. In a month and a half we probably used it a dozen or so times. It's amazing how much easier the lock release works if you coat ALL the cables in 90 wt oil. I cut the top off a pop can and put 90wt and used a small brush to coat the cables as to try and not make a mess, same thing with greasing the inside corners inside the lift pillars. Ours says on a sticker on the lift, the equalizer cables should be coated with 90wt. I'm pretty close to feeling like the lift has already paid for itself. I've had no leaks either so far, although you can bet I'll be watching. Great video and thanks.
The more you use it the more you will trust it. Wait until you put something large on it. I can feel the columns shift slightly as the vehicle is lowered and your hand its holding the lock release.
Why don't you put a half inch steel plate from post to post it won't move.
I never heard "cheap" and "Fluke" in the same sentence! Good video. I disagree with your "1st lock too high" comment. Locks are to rest weight, yes, but obviously mainly a safety consideration. If the lift fails catastrophically from such a short height, so what? The car fell 10"! I can't see that being disastrous. Still, good video. I am an old guy and I am always impressed by guys so young who really have their act together. Best wishes from Michigan.
I totally agree with you on the height of the first lock. I have a rotary and have to say I love it, but its the same. First lock kicks in at about 2 feet. When I'm doing a timing belt for example, I have to leave it sit below the lock which is leaving a lot of pressure on the hydraulics. Definitely not nit picking with that one, thats a legitimate fault.
Good Job on the review, I strongly agree about a company standing behind their product right away without argument. I'm convinced, I'm buying a BendPak.
Great video and update.... never an issue if you rack storage one for days... done it many just left them on them on the locks... Surprised how the wide position gives a lot of room to open the doors compared to a few other brands I have use over the years at dealers
After having one in the wide position I wouldn't want a narrow for sure. A narrow would be tight driving a full size truck into it. You would definitely have to pay more attention to not drive over the arms.
I lowered my C5 on the factory bolts. Floor to rocker panel is 3 3/4". I'd definitely need to run it up on 2x10's in order to get the arms under it. Good to know!
Customers are always right. They have to live with the purchase day in and day out.
Thanks for these videos, been a big help as I install mine! Also your offside post safety cable in not installed correctly. If you pause at 8:16 the cable is supposed to loop around the short post you have it over and then the loop goes onto the longer rod between the spring and the welded metal post bar. If you haven't had any issues with it so far then prob ok to leave it...but I wanted to let you know
Thanks so much for doing these videos man. Subscribed.
I like to use my lift below the first lock and my lift tends to drift down faster than it should, so I cut two pieces of 6x6 to put under the carriages for that purpose.
nothing picky about it ,they will start making them that way,you our making some great points , not only that , should have lower for taking off tires so you dont have to lift up 2 ft, you did a great job on explaining your self ,well done,much appreciated, bendpak needs to send you top of the line hoist ,with a thank you for selling their hoist ,because im buying one as well, thx
Kimberlee Ellison thanks for the complements. I was researching lifts as well before before I bought mine and could not find any detailed information. Mostly just large RUclipsrs or vlogs saying this thing is great for 20 minutes and no real substance. I don’t need another lift but, if Bendpak sent me a check refunding the cost of the one I bought, I wouldn’t say no haha. Check out the other parts if you need assembly or repair help. Thanks for watching.
Ive always figured that BendPac gave a lot of them away as you always see them on all the television shows as well i guess its smart marketing on their part And i tend to agree that they will be the easier one to find parts for in the years to come over all the other “brands “ selling 2 post lifts that do appear to be all made in the same factory in China and rebranded under numerous names and colors
I have my lift on order... I'm having the local dealer install, so hopefully that minimizes my chances of bad cylinders. In reference to the wiring, my dealer advised me to run a 20 amp 240 service to the area. A 12-2 run would be sufficient for that load. What I find odd is that I bought a qt-5 Quincy compressor and I'm in the process of wiring it up. They call for a 60 amp breaker on it, which would require 6-2. I did the same thing you did and looked at the wiring inside..
To my surprise, they are running #10 wire to the motor. Very similar situation you are seeing with the lift.
I think my cylinders are just manufacturing defects. I don't think the install had to do with them leaking. Hopefully you won't have any issues.
As far as the compressor, the in-rush current will be higher. For example, starting it up in a cold garage in the winter. #6 seems like overkill not to mention cost a small fortune in wire. I would try #8 on a 40 amp breaker. Mostly because the internal wiring like you said is #10.
Repair Geek definitely manufacturing defects... Just saying, with them installing they may catch something like that upfront and able to resolve it for me, rather than it being on me to deal with bendpak and replacing myself.
My materials are bought for the compressor and I'll be putting in the 60 amp circuit. Just pointing out that what you saw with this lift seems common. Quincy has a strong reputation and they do it too.
Check the motor plate they will always tell you the voltage and full load current and horsepower among other info most lifts are two to three hp so a full load current rating of 15amps or so at 220v is going to be pretty common.
I just ordered the exact same one yesterday for my auto shop can't wait
Excellent. Check out my other videos if you need help with anything else.
Repair Geek I did thank you keep up the good work
Thanks for the video. I’m in the market for a lift and found this very informative.
Thanks for the videos on the lift install. I'm about to install a Danmar which is the same lift as bendpak, made by bendpak. Took away several tips from your videos.
Thanks for putting it out there...
I'm ready to wire this thing up, do u have any pics of the wiring arrangement in the lift motor case? The schematic is a little confusing to me and they had a pigtail wired into the relay that I do not believe follows the schematic. Just looking for a double check before I flip the breaker and hit the button.
Enjoyed the video a lot! Thanks!
I agree on the locks working quicker! Nice Mustang!
Thanks.
I work on rotory lifts and there are several lifts with 10 plus yrs on original cylinders in a dealership I go to.
Nice review. Thanks for sharing!
Looking forward to your next video. :)
Glad you liked it.
I' ve had mine 2 years now. I have two complaints.....first is that I was not informed the LP arms were shorter. Secondly, when lowering a vehicle the motor starts pulling away from the steel beam
Love my mohawk.... and while I haven’t seen their website... but I highly doubt that they took apart a Mohawk.... Mohawks construction pretty much embarrasses everyone else’s construction
I've had one for about 6 years now, material is thicker them ,which is good I've had two weld fails so far, but then hey what do you expect, it's made in China! Great for the price, just don't expect it to last forever .
I agree ,the 1st set of locks need to be lower and also more travel after the last set of locks. I had it happen 1 time the top lock on the 1 side didn't unlatch properly and the car started coming down only on 1 side.....very scary.....be careful with that.
The equalizing cables will keep one side from moving without the other. One side will drop but, only until the cable is tensioned. I've had that situation happen as well.
Thanks for the review, you covered a lot of material.
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for the review. Focused on the product, no hype, drama or trashy background noise/music.
Nice system, these lifts are well made.
Thanks for all your efforts and videos. They were instrumental in helping me overcome BendPak's deficient instructions when installing my XPR-10. You saved me weeks of additional grief. < My experience was the same as yours with bad parts, scratches, missing key details in the instructions, etc. No need to sweat the 14 gauge wires as code for wires in appliances (along the end part of the run) is different than that for wires in the wall. Check out your shop vac power cord and the same thing is going on.
I realize these videos are a little long for most people but, for people like you that actually assemble one of these the length and detail helps greatly. Glad I could help you out. Thanks for watching.
Came for the lols, noticed you had a amsoil sticker on your overpriced toolbox. That's when I knew I had to subscribe. Repair Geek for the win!!
Lol don't hate on my Craftsman box. Its not the nicest thing out there but for my home use its great. I'm starting to out grow it though. A bigger box might be coming in the future.. Thanks for watching.
breakers protect the wires in the wall, not the device.
Very interesting video for me as I am getting ready to buy a lift. I like your style and level of detail so I am subscribing. Hopefully my subscription will push you over the amount needed to get free lifts!
Good video. I wouldn't consider any of your feedback nitpicking. After all, you paid full price therefore you're more than welcome to be nitpicky if you choose so.
Subscribed just to try proving you wrong about never having a large channel
Haha I had 30 subscribers when I made this video. I'm doing far better than I ever anticipated. Thanks for watching.
I enjoy your no-BS style, subbed.
Great review! Thanks
Very good vid, thanks!!
What were you expecting from products made in USA and China anyway?
Have you driven your Pinto lately?
Yes, memories of this was so short. Good luck with your Mustbang.
So where should I be buying products from?
Thanks for the video..I to live in ohio...I was looking at the one you have..probably going to buy it new...I was wondering on your concrete thickness...I've drilled a few holes and I come up with 6 inchs...what did you have in your garage?.I have 12 foot ceilings ...thanks you
use synthetic oil as a lube for the adjusters, works great less messy than no seize.
Whoever framed your garage needs an engineering lesson. Enjoyed the vid. Good info.
I doubt the Amish are on RUclips.
Voltage drop is why they want a number 10 wire but deffinatly why not just put it on a 15 amp breaker if ur concerned
Thanks for doing this series. I have been looking at BENDPAK lifts to install in my garage. Mine is quite a bit larger than yours, so clearance issues won't matter as much to me. The only thing I'm going to have to do is upgrade the concrete floor. I'm thinking a 12k lift so I can raise F-350 dually diesels, but my floor is only 3 1/2 inches, not thick enough.
Yeah the largest I've lifted was a 3500 Dodge megacab short box 4x4 with a Cummins in it. That for me was about the limit. Lifting that much weight getting the vehicle balanced is critical. Don't skimp on the floor. Once the lift is up it's hard to go back and redo the floor. Thanks for watching.
You can run 1/2"-3/4" metal plates under the posts.
Nice Job! thanks Repair Geek!
Thanks for watching.
When your warranty runs out start getting your seal kits and other items from All Parts Supply in Texas way cheaper than going thru Bend Pak or Rotary and just as durable I work for a company that fixes lifts and we have never had an issue at all with any of the items we get from them.....only on repair parts as far as motors stay with maker of course
Good to know. Thanks for watching.
Great review, what are the dimensions of your garage and the concrete thickness.
great video,, thanks
I just received a XPR 10 AS today, the manual says it requires a 20 amp circuit. When I was looking at lifts and decided on this one a few months ago the description said 20 amp circuit. I don't know if they just recently changed that, I picked out this lift before I even built the barn so ran a 20 amp circuit to my planned lift location when I was wiring the barn.
Question. I was at my local dump and on the scale during exit my power stroke truck was 8220 lbs. That’s with me and two sand bags included ... With me out of it (200#) and the two sand bags out of the bed (120#) and then go from half a tank of diesel to a full tank of diesel (+107#), it would be around ~8000 lbs on the lift. Would a 9,000 lbs lift be okay? 1,000 lbs of buffer should be fine right? I’ll never have a shell on it nor will I keep lots of heavy equipment in it. This F250 will be the heaviest thing I’ll ever lift. The other two vehicles I’ll be lifting are a F150 5.5’ bed and a BMW sedan. Thanks for your input. I need a clear top lift (hose and chain on floor) and not interested in a “hose and chain over top” lift. I am 6’6” tall and need that truck in the air. So can’t do a XPR 10000.
You don't need lock unless you are under the car you can use Jack stands if you want.
Thanks for the review and all the other videos. I have this lift sitting in my garage ready to assemble. I had bought it prior to finding your videos but you really give me a good idea as to what to expect. I do have a question if its not to much trouble. I'm debating on the wide or narrow configuration. I have a 3 bay garage, vaulted ceiling, with a 6x6 post between each bay. The 6x6 posts are only 142" apart (inside). I can move them the additional 3". But they already need to be moved in because they are in the outside bays as it is. Another 3" would be really close to any vehicle parked in the outer bay.
I'm wondering how wide is the space between the arms and between the columns on yours. I can do the math to see if the narrow will be too narrow. I have a lowered Camaro and will probably have some trucks on it at some point. its just a home use lift. Don't want to set it to the narrow config and then it not work very well for what I'm using it for.
Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
My main issue regarding the width has actually been on trucks. Some of the frames are so narrow that the front arms are extended all the way out to catch the frame. So getting the vehicle in exactly the center is critical to getting it up in the air otherwise, one of the arms won't reach. New body style Ram 1500s are probably the worst I've come across. Again I have the LP arms. I think the standard arms are longer.
On the other hand I've had large 3/4 and 1 ton trucks on this thing that I don't know that I could have opened the door on them to get out if I had set it up narrow.
The distance between the inside of the posts is: 104 inches. That is baseplate to baseplate. Inside. I have my Mustang in the air prepping for power tour right now so I can't get you a distance between the arms.
@@RepairGeek Thanks for the quick response. I also have LP arms. what you mention is reassuring. My vehicles are smaller vehicles anyway. I didn't want to run into a situation where I wouldn't be able to fit something in the narrow config that was a practical vehicle to own. I know the newer trucks are quite wide and taller than some of the older trucks. thanks again for the reply.
Great video! Do you have any opinions on the new BendPak Grand Prix lifts? Seems like my most likely candidate for a purchase when I can afford one.
I've never seen one so I really can't make a fair assessment of them.
No problem! Appreciate the reply and honesty. Wasn't sure if you would have had the chance to check one out.
Your unit still going strong? Looking at the budget 7K and 9K pound lifts for a home gamer like me, I'm coming to the same conclusions as you. Doesn't seem to make sense to save $1,000 at the risk of lower quality and worse colustomer service.
@@802Garage it's still working. The replacement cylinders have a slow leaks as well. Benpak offered to come and fix it for me for free but I refused. The leak is slow and I can rebuild by old cylinders for a video in the future. Structurally it's been perfect.
Cool, thanks for the info and replies once again. Good luck with the channel! I subscribed.
@@RepairGeek I am a Certified ALI Inspector and installer of all brand of lifts. Both Bend Pak lifts our company installed in the last few months have cylinder issues. Not seal issues, cylinder weld issues. Inspect it closely and make a sure decision before passing on a new cylinder. Note: both new lifts were 4 post lifts, not 2 post lifts.
Hey man, great videos. Very informative. I'm looking for a lift for my garage and this helped a lot. One question though, I need to know where you got your shop table. That thing is Legit! Keep up the good work.
Bryan Dahlberg I bought it during a father's day sale last year from Sears. It's a Craftsman. It's made by Waterloo (they sell it under their name as well) and made in the USA. I paid $350 for it. Regular price is in the $600 range. It's about 2 inch particle board wrapped in 20 gauge or so stainless steel. You can't weld on it because of the particle board bottom but for general repair it's great. It probably weighs 175lbs without the vice. The bench is item#: 114523. The only one you will find that's better is one you custom built yourself.
Glad you like the videos. I'm just recording stuff I'm going to do out in my garage anyways. I'm just glad people are actually watching. Haha.
I have three rotary they are awesome. I have one Atlas that we're getting rid of 6 years it is plumb wore out. we are buying a new mohawk they are expensive but nice
Great review. I'll subscribe
Mohawk is the finest lift you can buy. There's a reason they warranty their lift for 25 yrs. Take a look at the construction and it's obvious. Using 3/4 steel for everything, incuding the base plates which are 20 x 30" The channel is fork lift steel. No plastic, no hoses, no cables, nada. I would buy a used Mohawk System 1 over anything out there.
I might have missed it but how wide is your garage? How much space did you end up with from the centerline of the posts to the studs? Thanks for sharing some great info!
Excellent video. I'm not clear if Bendpak have their own dedicated factory in China which solely manufacture lifts for Bendpak, or are they manufactured in a factory which manufactures lifts for others (or be it to different specifications). The difficulty with Chinese manufactured product is future proofing spare parts availability. I say this because retailers tend to move from Chinese factory to Chinese factory dependant on price per unit, supply problems and quality control issues. As you say, the chances of spare parts back up in 10 years time is questionable from an unbranded product. I'm hoping to buy a base plate 2 poster and have been looking at so many different brands of lift. I am currently trying to decide between a Twin Busch and a Bendpak (both manufactured in china but to German / American specifications respectively. The Twin Busch does seem to offer the better spec and value for money so tending towards a 242Eat the moment.............
I haven't come across that brand. Do you have a dealer that is local that carries that brand?
Found them via the internet. I'd certainly not heard of them before. They seem to be quite a big company. My nearest British dealer is 150 plus miles away so not seen their stuff in the flesh. They are international and there is an American retailer. What I like particularly like is that the delivery lorry has a forklift so will off load the lift straight into the garage. Quite a few RUclips video on them onwww.twinbusch.de/index.php?language=en
Thanks, I will have to check them out.
I bought a used BendPak lift. Need a few parts for it. Having a hard time even figuring out what model I have. Any ideas ??
The truck wouldnt shake on the lift if it was set correctly, needs to be about a foot farther forward and space the arms out more to more evenly distribute the weight on the arms.
Not true. They all move, whether on a Bendpak, Rotary, even if perfectly centered. Its normal.
Manufacturers rate their appliance how they want. Ever wire a waterheater? Same deal. 10-2 wire to the unit, and you connect it to much smaller wires inside.
I couldn't stop looking at the framing on the jamb side of that door. lol
Amish. The door was framed before the floor was poured. The door was framed too low they had to raise it. That wall isn't load bearing. I'm not worried about it.
Not sure why people worry about other people's stuff......if its your garage, go fix it. If its someone else's.....who the heck cares? LOL!
the reason those controls are off to the side is so if somebody lifts it up with the arms out it wont get into the hydraulic tank.
It won't hit. The tank is parallel to the arms when they are all the way back.
does your lift posts wobble when lifting a car?
At 7mins you say how the lift controls come out farther just wondering how wide is your lift overall I know you can do the 12 foot wide which is widest lift can be installed....so I should say think cause how the post are angled and the control unit?
Nice Job!! Subscribed
What size is your shop, I like it! Looking to build a shop and trying to get a size comparison, thanks!
16x28. I wouldn't go any smaller.
I'm considering the 13' version of this lift. I own the same truck as you. How bouncy is this lift with that truck on it? I'm referring to the movement in the uprights themselves when you're breaking bolts loose, etc. I have a challenger 10k at my parents house (ALI certified rack) and there is WAY too much movement for my liking. I wish I would have known before buying that lift. I'm hoping the bendpak is more ridgid and am wanting to know about this factor before purchasing one for my house.
I don't have a Challenger to compare to but, it does move. If you grab the rear bumper and give it a firm push up or down with one hand, it's going to shake the truck. The longer the vehicle the greater the effect because you have more leverage over the lift with a longer vehicle. I don't feel like it's excessive. I've used Rotary lifts in the past and they are the same way.
At the end of the day, get a decent pole jack, put it under the hitch, buy whatever lift you like, and you'll never have an issue with shaking.
@@RepairGeek I'm a technician and have been the past 12 years, so I'm aware of and not concerned about that. I'm concerned about the lateral movement of the lift (say, if you're breaking loose a lower control arm bolt with a breaker bar). My challenger basically comes out-of-square when having to pull or hammer on something perpendicular to the car. We both live in Ohio, the land of rust, so using excessive force is inevitable.
@@GTkyle sorry I wasn't following what you were saying. I've never had a vehicle shift like that.
@@RepairGeek the vehicle doesn't shift, the lift itself wobbles laterally much more than the Ben Pearson 9,000 lb asymmetrical racks at work. But there are various things I dont like about the Ben Pearsons. The bendpak seems to hit all points in what I want, I just hope it's a ridgid lift.
This may have been asked already but I'm not reading through a million comments. Do you think its possible that the automatic transmission fluid is what caused your cylinder failure? I know its very corrosive and has a different pH than hydraulic fluid. That or moving the cylinders with air without fluid on the seals. Just a thought.
Doubtful. The instructions give you the choice of ATF or hydraulic oil. I chose atf because of the red dye. As far as the air moving the cylinders, I doubt it. The cylinders were pressure tested at the factory with oil. I had hydraulic oil coming out of the line after I ran them with air. Thanks for watching.
I like the center under the roof for lift highth but I wouldn't make myself a confined space. I would have a minimum of two spaces unless it is just storage for two cars in one spot. I have reason to believe that removing large pieces off a vehicle need the extra space for a pallet jack or whatever needs taken off to repair as in welding n replacement need room for any parts to be switch swapped. The switch at the top of the lift is so you don't lift the rig into a obstruction or bend up your rig that you work on and possibly tip the rig into something... loses something in the wording
I know what you're saying. The problem is budgets don't always agree with that.
looks like they want to keep any power surges on the right side of L1
What's the distance from the outside of the posts to the side walls please? Is there sufficient room to work on the vehicle.
came here to learn about the lift but I'm distracted by your jack stud rigging on your man door!
Long story short, the door was framed in too low. When the floor was poured I was going to have a step down out the door. That was a no go for me. They had to raise the door. It's not a load bearing wall. it's been fine.
Spec called for min of 4.25 3000psi concrete with rebar @12” centers. What is your concrete? Also I didn’t see any recommendations for proposed modifications to existing concrete that first meet there min. Any advise would be great
Bendpak changed the concrete specs after this was filmed.
Please help. I'm in between getting a bendpak like yours and a challenger cl10v3 I want more space to open doors when in-between colums are you familiar with challenger life. Please help me decide thank you
I've got a quick question, you mentioned that the center of the post is 10' from your bench, assuming its 2' deep that's 12' from the wall, with your truck on the lift how much room is there to walk between the front bumper of your truck and the bench? I'm about to install a lift of my own and I want to make sure I'll have enough room to swing a cherry picker around and be able to pull an engine without running it into the wall. thanks!
It's about 3 or 4 feet.
Good job what’s the overall size of the lift 10’ or 12’ ??
12 outside to outside.
my house that I bought a few yrs ago came with a bendpak 2 post lift. I use it with friends once every few months. is it ok to store a car on the lift for an extended period of time in order to park another one below?
Yep I do it all the time.
I feel like you are my brother from another mother.
What's the dimensions on your garage where the hoist is
After a couple years of service has your opinion changed?
I'm in the process of rebuilding my shop and am curious on the bend pak line
It's the same. New cylinders are leaking as well. I called them out on FB about a year ago because they started bragging about having a less than 1% failure rate on cylinders. I simply stated that can't be true because every cylinder I have leaks. They offered to send another set and send a tech out to install them. I refused. Not wanting to have 6 leaking cylinders on my hands instead of the 4 I currently have. The leaks are VERY small but annoying none the less. I may rebuild a set myself and make a video about how to rebuild them. The lift works well and always feels safe but, if your looking for a show piece this isn't it. Their packaging will tear up the lift before you ever lay a finger on it.
@@RepairGeek , I am thinking about pulling the trigger on the XPR10-XLS model for the additional rise height. Would you say Bendpak isn't any better than some of the other Chinese lifts out there? The only other 2 lifts I found that have higher than normal rise height were Amgo OHX-10H, and Stratus Lift C10E. But they aren't well known brand names, and not a lot of feedback out there. Don't wanna pay an extra 41500-$2000 for the Bendpak if it isn't any better! Just curious of your thoughts?
Hello Repair Geek: Do you think that your lift could work on a 2004 GMC 4x4 crew cab duramax diesel sort bed ? Thanks
I have to agree with you on the height that the locks first engauge
Great video by the way
You won't have an issue. My neighbor has a 2015 GMC 2500hd crew cab, short box, 4x4, Duramax. I Fluid Film'ed it for him. It went to full height with no issue. With an asymmetric lift the overhead limit switch is over the windshield. You won't have any issues as long as it's balanced correctly and your shop is large enough.
Thank You for the quick reply. The locks locking down so high up the columns might be a deal breaker though
If that is a big deal I would call around to the different lift manufactures and find out what that height spec is. Finding specific info on that won't be easy to find on the internet.
I’m curious if the white ford truck you had on your lift can be lifted to full lift height or does it come in contact with the crossover brace before full lift?
It will go up to full height. The overhead ends up over top of the windshield because the lift is an asymmetric model. Mini vans or large SUV's will hit my garage door when I have the door open. With the door shut I have no issue. I haven't had anything touch the overhead on the lift, even at full height.
Repair Geek thanks
I might have missed it in the previous videos, but how wide is your garage? I would like to build a garage with a segregated lift area that is 16x32 but I'm concerned that 16' might not be wide enough. Thanks, man!
Mine is 16ft wide. 28ft deep.
@@RepairGeek Awesome, 16' wide it is! Thanks for the quick reply! Sub'd
@@ShadeTreeVT If you can add just a little, even 2', you will not regret it.
What wheels are on the Stang? They look like Varro VD01's? Saweet!!
Fr500 replicas. Fr500s were a factory accessory wheel when this car was new.
Repair Geek Very nice! I'm considering the VD01's for my Grand Sport. Super nice job on your lift!
"I feel as though I can be."