Great review. I'm a retired tech and I was in the same position as you several years ago looking for a lift for my home workshop. The cheaper lifts were quite tempting but after much research I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a Bendpak 10,000 lb. lift. It is as well built as any that I used as a professional tech. I've lifted everything from an MGB to a extra cab Ford dully with no problem. I highly recommend spending the extra money for a quality lift because, as you pointed out, it's just not worth being nervous under a vehicle.
@@ironjohn5914 ive had an older 9K bend pak bought used for $2500 years ago and has never had any issues at all, bend pak rates there lifts anywhere from 600-800% more than lift capacity, if I was to purchase a cheaper lift it would have to be rated way more than what I would need to lift just to help with it not meeting ANSI standards? Just my thoughts.
Same! Retired master tech setting up my lifetime dream home shop. I went with the four post Advantage SS-11000-WD and a pair of air bridge jacks. I can lift everything from UTV's to crewcab dually trucks thanks to the 24" wide runways. Very happy!
Nice job on the pros and cons. Great demonstrations. I have a different brand lift (Triumph NTO11A) and was actually watching brainstorming video ideas for my channel. I enjoyed this a lot.
Most helpful. Convinced me to go with a 12,000 two stage, clear floor, wider setup from Advantage. They are local so I just need to take my trailer over to their warehouse and get it. I would freak out with that kind of deflection you described, and I have long bed crew cab F350 gasser. That entry exit issue is also significant....glad you showed just how tight it really is.
@@ShawnFerret Suggest you use extra tall jacks to stabilize especially if you are removing an engine from underneath(Porsche). Huge weight transfer/balance changes.
Hey Shawn, Great review! I got the same model lift as you just under a year ago. I also have it setup in the low configuration as my ceiling is about 11' 9.5". I've had a few different vehicles on it from as small as a Saturn Ion up to my Crew Cab 2500HD Duramax without any big issues (I did have my buddy's 3500HD dump truck on it, but only to get the wheels off the ground -- didn't trust it to go too high). I do know what you mean about the low lift height though. When I have a low car, I can only go so high because the hydraulic pistons will top out and hit the ceiling before I hit max height - I can see at 12:50 in your video, that the pistons just clear your ceiling at max lift. Putting a truck on seems better since you can use the 6 inch extensions. I've actually hit the shutoff bar with my truck before maxing out the lift and there's plenty of room to walk underneath. I'm 5'9" and I'm yet to hit my head on something. The most difficult vehicle I had on the lift was a 2019 Fusion -- first I couldn't see the sub frame to place the front arms because of all the sound deadening they use, then i ran into the rear arms being too long. I know what you mean about the deflection in the rear arms, but I had my 2500HD on the lift for almost a week without issue. I do however use a high lift jack under the rear hitch with ANY pickup I put up there. Aside from that, I'm yet to have any major issues.
Hey, Chris! That’s really funny, I just had a 2013 Fusion on mine this weekend and I had to scratch my head a little bit. I ended up using scrap 2x4 blocks to lift from the pinch welds without crushing the side skirts. That’s pretty cool you have lifted some bigger trucks on it and felt comfortable. Glad the height isn’t bothering you even with being taller than me.
You were at 420 likes. Good number and I didn't want to mess with it, but I liked it, so...421 it is. 😂 Appreciate you taking the time to post this. It was very informative and helpful
I just had a forward I10 10k lift installed. It has the same post and arm set up. It can be used as symmetrical or asymmetrical. Meaning a truck is out on with the rear of the front door just past the post. I like mine a lot and couldn't be happier
Hey Frank, I was looking at the I10 as well and it also seems to fall short for lifting height similar to the Atlas Pro-9D? The specs for the I10 show a Max. Rise w/5″ extension of 76 1/4", which would equate to 71 1/4" rise with just the pad (which I assume isn't on the top lock). Can you confirm what the clearance would be based on the pad and on top lock? I can't see it listed on the spec sheet. Thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to review the Atlas lift. I'm in the pre-stages of designing a post beam type workshop and this has been very helpful. It seems that in your situation the ceiling height had a major play in your final decision and I'm guessing if you had a bit more height then you would have upgraded your lift. I have a F250 Super-duty diesel and it doesn't look like it would be a comfortable fit on that lift. So back to thinking on height and width of the work area and what lift to consider.
I really wish I would have added just another 6” to the wall height, or even gone with scissor trusses because I have no attic space anyways. Then I would have gone with a 10k Bendpak and been all set! I will never put a diesel truck on this lift. Someone else commented recently making a good point about each arm being rated for 2250 lbs on this lift, and a diesel likely overloading the front arms. I would actually feel more comfortable on a 12k lift for diesel work.
How did your building project turn out? I built a 34'x60' steel building with 16' side walls when I retired. It has one 14'x14' door, two 12'x12' doors, and two man doors. Any highway legal vehicle can fit in this shop! We used high strength 5,000 psi concrete for the foundation. Just installed an Advantage SS-11000-WD four post lift in it and couldn't be happier. I'm just sorry it took me until retirement to finally get my dream shop. At least I was able to retire in my late 50's and in good health...
👍🏻I’m glad I watched your video on this i was going try one of these because of the price and space , shop hight is 12” 6’ , I’m 6’1 might be ok for quick oil change, my first job for a lift would be to lift the body off a f-450 service truck
I've always liked working with 2 post in-ground hydraulic lifts back in the day. Nothing beats being able to open a car door fully lol. I had to get a floor plate lift because my ceiling is only 11' and won't accommodate a clear floor model. IMO It's still far better then rolling round on the floor. I ended up added foam weather stripping to all the places that I have noted the doors hitting on the columns. Ironically, the big rubber pad on the carriages have never come into contact with any doors so far lol.
Great job! I'm in the market for a lift (November 2022) and it seems they've all gone up in price considerably. If I were close to your area, I'd be tempted to offer you a price pretty close to your purchase price so you could get a different lift!
I think your right on all you points.I have a 5 year old Bendpak and am a professional tech.This hoist is installed in my home shop and works great!I would buy my bendpak for sure again if i had to.Symmetrical hoists are crap and i cant believe it doesnt go any higher.mine goes to high for me if needed,lol on that f150,no need to go that far back with the back arms at all.I lift Fords al day long. A supeduty is not easy to lift until the very new ones with a full low frame
Jealous of the Bendpak! I’ve always wondered if I could get away with running the rear arms much farther forward on the F-150. I’ll have to try it out.
@@ShawnFerret ohh yeah,thats right,i never took into consideration that you are BACKED onto the hoist....something i have never done in my 30 years of working on cars.Not saying its not right,just saying its not done often..i love my Bendpak and bought it used for $1700 when it was 2 years old.From what ive seen,like everything else,prices have went up.
Good video. I have the Atlas PV10 lift and my biggest complaint is that if I put the girlfriends 2014 Explorer on it, the drivers door will only open about 3 inches because the newer Ford is wider. We have a F250 Super Duty Diesel that gets a Harbor Freight high lift jack stand under each end when its on the lift and it makes that truck feel like its welded to the lift. Still Im thinking of going to the 12k lift just for the extra width.
Thanks! I wish I could have fit the 10k under my ceiling. The symmetrical setup definitely makes it hard getting in and out while racked. I still need to get a jack like you are using to put under the rear on bigger trucks.
Very true on it's weight limits since it's not ALI certified. A 9,000lb lift that's ALI certified would have to lift 13,500lbs for certification. I have a Forward lift , and agrree with everything you said 👍
thank you for your insights on this lift, since i havent had much time working with a lift it brought up alot of things i need to look for when i get the chance to buy one. i hadnt thought about the arms making that much of a difference but now it makes perfect sense. is it worth the time for you to resell this one and get a different one?
No problem! That is a great question, which I have to admit I hadn’t considered. I think the lift is really doing what I need it to right now. Admittedly, I’ve had a 2020 Explorer on it since making this video, so I proved that theory wrong. I couldn’t lift the car on the pinch weld in the front as the manufacturer recommends, but I used the unibody frame structure instead. I have mostly just been working on my cars, with a few friend projects here and there, so I don’t think I could justify an upgrade at this point. If that changes I would probably take your advice though and cash out for a 10k rated model.
Jealous!! The fans are just a generic 72” indoor/outdoor unit with a reversible DC motor from Home Depot. They were on sale at the time for $200 but are now discontinued. I would imagine they have something updated in the sub-$300 range. These have been working great for 3+ years and run continuously in the winter months.
I never considered it. To be honest lately I’ve been running it all the way up without setting it on the locks. I only set it on the locks when I plan to leave it there a while.
I’m building my garage currently and I have a new crew cab short box f150. 27ft bay depth. If i have 12ft to the door will the truck still fit driving in or will i have to back in? Or try to move my pedestal base area deeper into the stall?
It would fit but you would have very little working room behind the truck. Also take into consideration with a symmetrical lift you may have to back the truck up to be able to open the doors fully, so I often don’t pull up the whole way so I can get out easier, then roll the vehicle into position. In your situation that might be difficult to do without keeping the garage door open.
The tech sheet shows max lift height without any adapters at 6ft 5/8in. Is that not the case? Im curious because I’m looking to get this particular lift. Thanks
@@quickspoolgarage the highest mine will lift is 71.375” from the floor to the top of the lift pad with no adapters. That is where the motor stops, but once you set it down on the highest lock setting it’s at 67.875”.
don't know if it makes any difference or not but have you ever tryied 2 pull the vehicles in forward? i noticed you are backing in to the lift all the time, does it have anything 2 do with the way its balanced, notice if you will one of the arms of gthe lift is shorter than the other?? just a thought...
Yes, the front arms are shorter. I can swap the arms front-to-back if I ever want to pull in forward. I haven’t ever wanted to though. I like having the front of the car in the middle of the shop so there is plenty of working room. It’s really helpful when pulling engines.
Just personal preference. I like being in the middle of the shop when I work under hood as opposed to being up against a wall or corner. I figured I would swap the arms around if I didn’t like it this way, but I’m enjoying it still after 2 years. If I was pulling multiple cars in and out all day I definitely wouldn’t keep it like this.
@ShawnFerret I ended up purchasing the AMGO BP-9X this past Friday. After reading many reviews on various ones I settles on the AMGO due to being a certified lift and the amazing warranty they have.
Enjoyed your video. I will be buying my first one for home use soon. At 5'5", how hough would you want your lift. I am 6'3" and have had a lifetime of banging Mt head on things. I would really value your opinion as I could scale it up for me.
I think you would really want higher than this lift will go since you are 9” taller than me. That would be a struggle. Control arms, axles, etc. can all hang down lower than the lift arms in some cases. There are many nice lift options that go higher than this if you have the ceiling height.
They are just a cheap 72” indoor/outdoor model from Home Depot. They were on sale for $200 a piece at the time but they discontinued this exact model. You can definitely feel the air moving if you are within 20 feet or so of the fan.
You would just need to swap the lift arms around as they are specific to the front or rear of the vehicle. It is very easy to swap the position of the arms. The columns don’t need to change since it’s symmetrical.
It would pay for itself in a few weeks if I charged 😂. I really only work on stuff for close friends so I never charge… it was worth the investment just to have a space to hang out with my people and build cool stuff. Money changing hands creates different expectations, stress, and complicates things in my experience! It is nice to have as a fall back plan though.
Nice video review! I spent about 2 weeks watching and reading nearly everything on the internet before deciding on an Advantage SS-11000-WD four post lift for my home shop. The main selling points for me is the overall capacity, 24" wide rather than 19" wide runways that fit everything from UTV's up to crewcab dually trucks, 1/2" cables instead of 3/8", lubeable solid bushing pulleys rather than weaker roller bearings, mechanical release safety locks rather than the trouble prone air system, and the 240V motor rather than 120V. In addition, the Advantage 11000 weighs approximately 700 lbs. more than other lifts of the same or ever greater capacity, which should tell you something about the build quality and strength. Coupled with a pair of bridge air jacks, this lift is a dream come true in my home shop!
@ShawnFerret yeah, too bad I don't get royalties or something! I'm just an old retired mechanic enjoying my senior years. Wish I knew how to do video editing, I'd post some reviews and how to videos...
I have a one post, a 2 post & 12 four posts. If your working on a car, the one post is the best. Four post are only good for storing cars, the 2 post usually gets used for storing cars also because the posts are always in the way if you need to get inside. I've had the one post for 42yrs & wont give it up
4 post are really suited for exhaust fitting shops, but are handy for double stacking & loading / unloading on to flat beds ect, & oil changes of course,
I am curious about why you feel one post lifts are best. Don't you find that the lift arms get in the way underneath the vehicle? I am in the market for a lift and have been debating about 1, 2 and 4 post lifts so it would be great the hear more about your 1 post. Thanks.
@@andrewsnider4098 4 posts are great for storing cars & sometimes doing certain work, 2 posts are most versatile but have to be ancored to the floor & cant be moved easyly like a 4 post plus the posts are in the way if have to work with the doors open. A one post is the hardest to install have dig a hole 9ft deep & once there your not moving it but i find it's the best for working on your car. Great if your doing sills or rockers or most any work, plus when down it's completly out of your way, no posts in your way of opening car doors. If you have more than one car & need storage get a 4post, great for most work could be a pain if you have to remove the car wheels but some come with air jacks for extra $
Shawn, I have an Atlas ATPK-PV12P - so taller,wider and heavier capacity than yours.It has many of the pros/cons that yours has. The biggest 2 problems are: 1. It only has 2 stage arms.This means it is very difficult/impossible to use on short+wide cars like Porsche 911, Boxster, Lotus.No 3 stage arm conversion/upgrade was available when I asked.In desperation I cut off 4 inches of the first and second stage.Now it fits but i need to weld on reinforcement on the underside of the first stage, I bought extra box section to have extend the arms when necessary. Not a great solution the the lack of 3 stage arms. 2. The Hydraulic lift cylinders are way too short. It could lift another 6 inches or more with taller cylinders. Atlas could have easily made this a much better lift with front 3 stage arms and taller cylinders.
That’s so interesting to know yours has the same shortfalls, particularly with the lift cylinders. Pretty cool that you are modifying the arms yourself! I assumed a wider configuration would fix the issue with 2-stage arms but it sounds like not.
Atlas sell a "Base Plate Extension Kit" that would reduce the risk of the column rotating up and off it's anchors with a heavy load. It would be simple to fabricate your own. Fitting the Kit as an upgrade requires removing the anchor bolts and replacing them. Depending on your installation that may be a problem.Part # is ATPK-BP- EXTKIT .It is $500 as a separate item.!
So....... where are your tripod stands? I never ever worked on a truck on a small lift like this without a pair of them. Under no circumstances would I pull a major component without them. When I used Big Bertha however, no worries.
Next time I would get a BendPak XPR-10AS. I would have to cut the ceiling out between two trusses and recess it to clear the height, but it would have been worth it. If I decided not to mess with the ceiling I’d buy a Weaver W-Pro10.
@@ShawnFerret ok awesome thank you, that's the one I chose to go with, the weaver 10pro. Mostly because it's certified and affordable. I don't want that Chinese steel snapping off.
I noticed that you have the wrong area on the Frame in the rear I paid $ 1000.00 for a nine year old one just like the one you have and no problem with it and I installed it myself
Some of these have lift points it makes it safer to lift but I git your point I need to upGrade soon from my 9K. To a 10K good Luck with your next Lift
A 9000lb lift isnt even close to enough lift for a 3/4 ton truck. You shouldn't have a 3/4 truck on anything under 10k and really 12k is more applicable. You will exceed the single arm capacity before you exceed the total lift capacity.
Thanks, Rich. It’s likely I was maxing out the 2250 lb rating on the front arms with the Superduty weighing 6,800 lbs. I wasn’t thinking about the weight bias vs the single arm rating at the time.
@Shawn Ferret It is not rated for a superduty, the weight capacity is, but the arms are not due to the added weight the diesels and 1tons have FURTHER out than the half tons and gassers, that is why there's such a price difference between the 9k and 10k lbs lifts from ALL brands, and all reputable brands state this. Although it will lift it, it's heavily not recommended.
@@barryrhyno3190 totally agree the front arms could be overloaded trying to lift a diesel truck. I will never even try with this lift. Luckily the 2012 Super Duty I lifted had a gas engine with a curb weight somewhere between 6-7k lbs. Older ones with the 5.4L weigh even less.
I would NOT buy a Chinese lift at the lowest end of the spectrum. If you're a home shop mechanic, you don't want to buy a two post lift more than once. This lift sells for 3K, (3500 with shipping). Chances are you'll be like most of us, and use it far more than you expected. I use my lift literally every week, some weeks every day. They tend to get used, unlike your treadmill or exercise bike. The point is, buy a good lift, buy it once and be done. If I had a 4K budget for my auto lift, I would be shopping equipment auctions for a used US made Challenger, Rotary or Mohawk. Yes, it will be out of warranty, and you'll need to arrange for shipping and installation. You may need to do a little work on it to get it back into perfect condition. But if you have the mechanical skills enough that you actually need a 2 post lift, you have the skills to do minor repairs and install it yourself.
Great review. I'm a retired tech and I was in the same position as you several years ago looking for a lift for my home workshop. The cheaper lifts were quite tempting but after much research I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a Bendpak 10,000 lb. lift. It is as well built as any that I used as a professional tech. I've lifted everything from an MGB to a extra cab Ford dully with no problem. I highly recommend spending the extra money for a quality lift because, as you pointed out, it's just not worth being nervous under a vehicle.
Thanks, Jeff. It's good to hear the Bendpak meets your standards given your experience. That would be my top choice next time around.
I'm ordering a 10,000 Bendpak lift thanks to your review. Thank-you!!
@@ironjohn5914 that’s awesome, I’m sure you’ll love it!
@@ironjohn5914 ive had an older 9K bend pak bought used for $2500 years ago and has never had any issues at all, bend pak rates there lifts anywhere from 600-800% more than lift capacity, if I was to purchase a cheaper lift it would have to be rated way more than what I would need to lift just to help with it not meeting ANSI standards? Just my thoughts.
Same! Retired master tech setting up my lifetime dream home shop. I went with the four post Advantage SS-11000-WD and a pair of air bridge jacks. I can lift everything from UTV's to crewcab dually trucks thanks to the 24" wide runways. Very happy!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. This was helpful!
No problem!
Great video... thanks for pointing out the good and bad... I'm looking to buy a lift for my home garage, learned a few things!
Thanks for the words man, you brought some things to my attention that I would have never even thought off so I appreciate that man, thank you
Thanks for the kind comment! I’m glad I could help you out.
Great informative video which highlights things to be aware of before a lift purchase.
Thanks!
Nice job on the pros and cons. Great demonstrations. I have a different brand lift (Triumph NTO11A) and was actually watching brainstorming video ideas for my channel. I enjoyed this a lot.
Thanks for the kind words. You should do a review of yours! Your building looks great, you have a new subscriber!
@@ShawnFerret Thanks, Man! 👊
Thank you. Very informative as I am purchasing one soon
Glad it helped!
Most helpful. Convinced me to go with a 12,000 two stage, clear floor, wider setup from Advantage. They are local so I just need to take my trailer over to their warehouse and get it. I would freak out with that kind of deflection you described, and I have long bed crew cab F350 gasser. That entry exit issue is also significant....glad you showed just how tight it really is.
Thank you, I’m glad it helped. A wider 12k lift will be so nice for that F350!
@@ShawnFerret Suggest you use extra tall jacks to stabilize especially if you are removing an engine from underneath(Porsche). Huge weight transfer/balance changes.
@@schnellgelb1746 for sure!
Hey Shawn,
Great review! I got the same model lift as you just under a year ago. I also have it setup in the low configuration as my ceiling is about 11' 9.5". I've had a few different vehicles on it from as small as a Saturn Ion up to my Crew Cab 2500HD Duramax without any big issues (I did have my buddy's 3500HD dump truck on it, but only to get the wheels off the ground -- didn't trust it to go too high). I do know what you mean about the low lift height though. When I have a low car, I can only go so high because the hydraulic pistons will top out and hit the ceiling before I hit max height - I can see at 12:50 in your video, that the pistons just clear your ceiling at max lift. Putting a truck on seems better since you can use the 6 inch extensions. I've actually hit the shutoff bar with my truck before maxing out the lift and there's plenty of room to walk underneath. I'm 5'9" and I'm yet to hit my head on something. The most difficult vehicle I had on the lift was a 2019 Fusion -- first I couldn't see the sub frame to place the front arms because of all the sound deadening they use, then i ran into the rear arms being too long. I know what you mean about the deflection in the rear arms, but I had my 2500HD on the lift for almost a week without issue. I do however use a high lift jack under the rear hitch with ANY pickup I put up there. Aside from that, I'm yet to have any major issues.
Hey, Chris! That’s really funny, I just had a 2013 Fusion on mine this weekend and I had to scratch my head a little bit. I ended up using scrap 2x4 blocks to lift from the pinch welds without crushing the side skirts. That’s pretty cool you have lifted some bigger trucks on it and felt comfortable. Glad the height isn’t bothering you even with being taller than me.
You were at 420 likes. Good number and I didn't want to mess with it, but I liked it, so...421 it is. 😂 Appreciate you taking the time to post this. It was very informative and helpful
😂😂 Thanks!!
Awesome Job. Thank you
Thank you!
Thank you Shawn for the information, White Cloud, MI
No problem!
I just had a forward I10 10k lift installed. It has the same post and arm set up. It can be used as symmetrical or asymmetrical. Meaning a truck is out on with the rear of the front door just past the post. I like mine a lot and couldn't be happier
Awesome! I’ve never used a Forward. Definitely jealous of the 10k. I bet it’s way beefier than this.
Hey Frank, I was looking at the I10 as well and it also seems to fall short for lifting height similar to the Atlas Pro-9D? The specs for the I10 show a Max. Rise w/5″ extension of 76 1/4", which would equate to 71 1/4" rise with just the pad (which I assume isn't on the top lock). Can you confirm what the clearance would be based on the pad and on top lock? I can't see it listed on the spec sheet. Thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to review the Atlas lift. I'm in the pre-stages of designing a post beam type workshop and this has been very helpful. It seems that in your situation the ceiling height had a major play in your final decision and I'm guessing if you had a bit more height then you would have upgraded your lift. I have a F250 Super-duty diesel and it doesn't look like it would be a comfortable fit on that lift. So back to thinking on height and width of the work area and what lift to consider.
I really wish I would have added just another 6” to the wall height, or even gone with scissor trusses because I have no attic space anyways. Then I would have gone with a 10k Bendpak and been all set! I will never put a diesel truck on this lift. Someone else commented recently making a good point about each arm being rated for 2250 lbs on this lift, and a diesel likely overloading the front arms. I would actually feel more comfortable on a 12k lift for diesel work.
@@ShawnFerret Thanks Shawn, very helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to help me in my decision making.
@@manandatractor no problem! I wish you all the best with your building design.
How did your building project turn out? I built a 34'x60' steel building with 16' side walls when I retired. It has one 14'x14' door, two 12'x12' doors, and two man doors. Any highway legal vehicle can fit in this shop! We used high strength 5,000 psi concrete for the foundation. Just installed an Advantage SS-11000-WD four post lift in it and couldn't be happier. I'm just sorry it took me until retirement to finally get my dream shop. At least I was able to retire in my late 50's and in good health...
👍🏻I’m glad I watched your video on this i was going try one of these because of the price and space , shop hight is 12” 6’ , I’m 6’1 might be ok for quick oil change, my first job for a lift would be to lift the body off a f-450 service truck
That’s a big job! I wish I had another 6” like your shop… more options that way.
I've always liked working with 2 post in-ground hydraulic lifts back in the day. Nothing beats being able to open a car door fully lol. I had to get a floor plate lift because my ceiling is only 11' and won't accommodate a clear floor model. IMO It's still far better then rolling round on the floor. I ended up added foam weather stripping to all the places that I have noted the doors hitting on the columns. Ironically, the big rubber pad on the carriages have never come into contact with any doors so far lol.
Great job! I'm in the market for a lift (November 2022) and it seems they've all gone up in price considerably. If I were close to your area, I'd be tempted to offer you a price pretty close to your purchase price so you could get a different lift!
Haha I appreciate that! Best of luck shopping for yours. It will be worth every penny.
I think your right on all you points.I have a 5 year old Bendpak and am a professional tech.This hoist is installed in my home shop and works great!I would buy my bendpak for sure again if i had to.Symmetrical hoists are crap and i cant believe it doesnt go any higher.mine goes to high for me if needed,lol on that f150,no need to go that far back with the back arms at all.I lift Fords al day long. A supeduty is not easy to lift until the very new ones with a full low frame
Jealous of the Bendpak! I’ve always wondered if I could get away with running the rear arms much farther forward on the F-150. I’ll have to try it out.
@@ShawnFerret ohh yeah,thats right,i never took into consideration that you are BACKED onto the hoist....something i have never done in my 30 years of working on cars.Not saying its not right,just saying its not done often..i love my Bendpak and bought it used for $1700 when it was 2 years old.From what ive seen,like everything else,prices have went up.
Good video. I have the Atlas PV10 lift and my biggest complaint is that if I put the girlfriends 2014 Explorer on it, the drivers door will only open about 3 inches because the newer Ford is wider. We have a F250 Super Duty Diesel that gets a Harbor Freight high lift jack stand under each end when its on the lift and it makes that truck feel like its welded to the lift. Still Im thinking of going to the 12k lift just for the extra width.
Thanks! I wish I could have fit the 10k under my ceiling. The symmetrical setup definitely makes it hard getting in and out while racked. I still need to get a jack like you are using to put under the rear on bigger trucks.
Very true on it's weight limits since it's not ALI certified. A 9,000lb lift that's ALI certified would have to lift 13,500lbs for certification. I have a Forward lift , and agrree with everything you said 👍
thank you for your insights on this lift, since i havent had much time working with a lift it brought up alot of things i need to look for when i get the chance to buy one. i hadnt thought about the arms making that much of a difference but now it makes perfect sense.
is it worth the time for you to resell this one and get a different one?
No problem! That is a great question, which I have to admit I hadn’t considered. I think the lift is really doing what I need it to right now. Admittedly, I’ve had a 2020 Explorer on it since making this video, so I proved that theory wrong. I couldn’t lift the car on the pinch weld in the front as the manufacturer recommends, but I used the unibody frame structure instead. I have mostly just been working on my cars, with a few friend projects here and there, so I don’t think I could justify an upgrade at this point. If that changes I would probably take your advice though and cash out for a 10k rated model.
I have the Rotary 10k asymmetrical lift that you mentioned, and I love it! Any info on that ceiling fan? Great video.
Jealous!! The fans are just a generic 72” indoor/outdoor unit with a reversible DC motor from Home Depot. They were on sale at the time for $200 but are now discontinued. I would imagine they have something updated in the sub-$300 range. These have been working great for 3+ years and run continuously in the winter months.
@ShawnFerret That is exactly why I need one, to drive the heat downward from my Woodstove in the shop.
Lift, trailer , and a truck and youre considered a best friend hahah. Great video. I have the same lift
Haha! Luckily I don’t own a trailer.
Great review. Do you recall the inside to inside dimension of the blue posts ? Thanks!
109” - There’s a link to all the specs in the description.
Have you considered milling out/adding/welding in say an 4" extension piece to the locking lugs?
I never considered it. To be honest lately I’ve been running it all the way up without setting it on the locks. I only set it on the locks when I plan to leave it there a while.
I also have the same feeling when lifting a 2021 f150 on a 10k pound Chinese lift.
Hopes and prayers
I’m building my garage currently and I have a new crew cab short box f150. 27ft bay depth. If i have 12ft to the door will the truck still fit driving in or will i have to back in? Or try to move my pedestal base area deeper into the stall?
It would fit but you would have very little working room behind the truck. Also take into consideration with a symmetrical lift you may have to back the truck up to be able to open the doors fully, so I often don’t pull up the whole way so I can get out easier, then roll the vehicle into position. In your situation that might be difficult to do without keeping the garage door open.
when lifting f150 the frame has arrows for location of lifting you are streaching those arms to far back f150 is front heavy pick up on flat points
The tech sheet shows max lift height without any adapters at 6ft 5/8in. Is that not the case? Im curious because I’m looking to get this particular lift. Thanks
I’ll measure and update you.
@@ShawnFerret If you can measure from the floor to the lifting pad at lockout would be awesome. Thanks
@@quickspoolgarage the highest mine will lift is 71.375” from the floor to the top of the lift pad with no adapters. That is where the motor stops, but once you set it down on the highest lock setting it’s at 67.875”.
@@ShawnFerret thank you sir. Looks I’m going to give ones of these lifts a shot. Plan on ordering it next week. 👍
@@quickspoolgarage no problem, have fun with the lift.
don't know if it makes any difference or not but have you ever tryied 2 pull the vehicles in forward? i noticed you are backing in to the lift all the time, does it have anything 2 do with the way its balanced, notice if you will one of the arms of gthe lift is shorter than the other?? just a thought...
Yes, the front arms are shorter. I can swap the arms front-to-back if I ever want to pull in forward. I haven’t ever wanted to though. I like having the front of the car in the middle of the shop so there is plenty of working room. It’s really helpful when pulling engines.
Thanks a lot solid information. But why are you back in the vehicles in??
Just personal preference. I like being in the middle of the shop when I work under hood as opposed to being up against a wall or corner. I figured I would swap the arms around if I didn’t like it this way, but I’m enjoying it still after 2 years. If I was pulling multiple cars in and out all day I definitely wouldn’t keep it like this.
@@ShawnFerret thanks for the great video. I just picked up my A Plus 10k lift. I plan to begin installing tomorrow. Thanks again
@@schuck9326 that’s awesome! Good luck on the install.
Where are you getting these prices from? Are these pre-covid prices? Atlas I’m seeing in the $3100-$3500 range. Bendpak I’m seeing starting at $5000.
Yes, it looks like prices have gone up a lot since I bought this lift in December of 2020.
I wonder if its possible to get three stage arms and install them on your lift
I haven’t actually looked into it. Definitely wouldn’t mind the upgrade.
Would you suggest the derek weaver 2 post baseplate model over direct tools racing baseplate mode?
I've never used either so I really don't have an opinion. Derek Weaver was my next choice when I was shopping though.
@ShawnFerret I ended up purchasing the AMGO BP-9X this past Friday. After reading many reviews on various ones I settles on the AMGO due to being a certified lift and the amazing warranty they have.
Enjoyed your video. I will be buying my first one for home use soon. At 5'5", how hough would you want your lift. I am 6'3" and have had a lifetime of banging Mt head on things. I would really value your opinion as I could scale it up for me.
I think you would really want higher than this lift will go since you are 9” taller than me. That would be a struggle. Control arms, axles, etc. can all hang down lower than the lift arms in some cases. There are many nice lift options that go higher than this if you have the ceiling height.
How do you like those ceiling fans? Can you feel the air moving? What model are they?
They are just a cheap 72” indoor/outdoor model from Home Depot. They were on sale for $200 a piece at the time but they discontinued this exact model. You can definitely feel the air moving if you are within 20 feet or so of the fan.
@@ShawnFerret thanks Shawn, I’ll check HD.
I’m getting an Atlas lift too (thanks in part to your video). I’m getting the PVL12 cause I have an F450.
@@HandySmith04 that will be awesome!
Does it make a difference in the way cars' directions? Can you make it facing the wall in your lift?
You would just need to swap the lift arms around as they are specific to the front or rear of the vehicle. It is very easy to swap the position of the arms. The columns don’t need to change since it’s symmetrical.
So has your lift paid itself off yet? Must be easy making a little side money with a lift i bet!! Thx for the review
It would pay for itself in a few weeks if I charged 😂. I really only work on stuff for close friends so I never charge… it was worth the investment just to have a space to hang out with my people and build cool stuff. Money changing hands creates different expectations, stress, and complicates things in my experience! It is nice to have as a fall back plan though.
Nice video review!
I spent about 2 weeks watching and reading nearly everything on the internet before deciding on an Advantage SS-11000-WD four post lift for my home shop. The main selling points for me is the overall capacity, 24" wide rather than 19" wide runways that fit everything from UTV's up to crewcab dually trucks, 1/2" cables instead of 3/8", lubeable solid bushing pulleys rather than weaker roller bearings, mechanical release safety locks rather than the trouble prone air system, and the 240V motor rather than 120V. In addition, the Advantage 11000 weighs approximately 700 lbs. more than other lifts of the same or ever greater capacity, which should tell you something about the build quality and strength. Coupled with a pair of bridge air jacks, this lift is a dream come true in my home shop!
Nice advertisement 😂
@ShawnFerret yeah, too bad I don't get royalties or something! I'm just an old retired mechanic enjoying my senior years. Wish I knew how to do video editing, I'd post some reviews and how to videos...
I have a one post, a 2 post & 12 four posts. If your working on a car, the one post is the best. Four post are only good for storing cars, the 2 post usually gets used for storing cars also because the posts are always in the way if you need to get inside. I've had the one post for 42yrs & wont give it up
One post is great! I don’t mind a big 4-post lift with jacks sometimes because it becomes a nice table.
4 post are really suited for exhaust fitting shops, but are handy for double stacking & loading / unloading on to flat beds ect, & oil changes of course,
@@lindsaychugg7321 Agreed!
I am curious about why you feel one post lifts are best. Don't you find that the lift arms get in the way underneath the vehicle? I am in the market for a lift and have been debating about 1, 2 and 4 post lifts so it would be great the hear more about your 1 post. Thanks.
@@andrewsnider4098 4 posts are great for storing cars & sometimes doing certain work, 2 posts are most versatile but have to be ancored to the floor & cant be moved easyly like a 4 post plus the posts are in the way if have to work with the doors open. A one post is the hardest to install have dig a hole 9ft deep & once there your not moving it but i find it's the best for working on your car. Great if your doing sills or rockers or most any work, plus when down it's completly out of your way, no posts in your way of opening car doors. If you have more than one car & need storage get a 4post, great for most work could be a pain if you have to remove the car wheels but some come with air jacks for extra $
What is the overall width of the lift from the base plate to base plate?
There is a link to the specs in the description.
Shawn, I have an Atlas ATPK-PV12P - so taller,wider and heavier capacity than yours.It has many of the pros/cons that yours has. The biggest 2 problems are:
1. It only has 2 stage arms.This means it is very difficult/impossible to use on short+wide cars like Porsche 911, Boxster, Lotus.No 3 stage arm conversion/upgrade was available when I asked.In desperation I cut off 4 inches of the first and second stage.Now it fits but i need to weld on reinforcement on the underside of the first stage, I bought extra box section to have extend the arms when necessary. Not a great solution the the lack of 3 stage arms.
2. The Hydraulic lift cylinders are way too short. It could lift another 6 inches or more with taller cylinders.
Atlas could have easily made this a much better lift with front 3 stage arms and taller cylinders.
That’s so interesting to know yours has the same shortfalls, particularly with the lift cylinders. Pretty cool that you are modifying the arms yourself! I assumed a wider configuration would fix the issue with 2-stage arms but it sounds like not.
Atlas sell a "Base Plate Extension Kit" that would reduce the risk of the column rotating up and off it's anchors with a heavy load. It would be simple to fabricate your own. Fitting the Kit as an upgrade requires removing the anchor bolts and replacing them. Depending on your installation that may be a problem.Part # is ATPK-BP- EXTKIT .It is $500 as a separate item.!
@@schnellgelb1746 I just looked it up, that is super cool! I didn’t know that existed.
i got a similar lift and i got the same problems with smaller cars but my mindset is that you get away with lifting small cars of centre
Agreed! I really don’t worry about the small cars.
I fastened mine to the ceiling also l wouldn't trust any 2 post lift without doing it.
So....... where are your tripod stands? I never ever worked on a truck on a small lift like this without a pair of them. Under no circumstances would I pull a major component without them. When I used Big Bertha however, no worries.
rocking is completely normal especially on one of those stupid f150s you could have jack points bumper to bumper and itll still rock your fine
So if you were to buy another lift, which one would you get?
Next time I would get a BendPak XPR-10AS. I would have to cut the ceiling out between two trusses and recess it to clear the height, but it would have been worth it. If I decided not to mess with the ceiling I’d buy a Weaver W-Pro10.
@@ShawnFerret ok awesome thank you, that's the one I chose to go with, the weaver 10pro. Mostly because it's certified and affordable. I don't want that Chinese steel snapping off.
@@JM-yx1lm awesome! I have never talked to someone who has one. I’d love to know how to like it once you’re all set up.
I noticed that you have the wrong area on the Frame in the rear I paid $ 1000.00 for a nine year old one just like the one you have and no problem with it and I installed it myself
If there’s a better way let me know! I’m glad yours is working out for you.
Some of these have lift points it makes it safer to lift but I git your point I need to upGrade soon from my 9K. To a 10K good Luck with your next Lift
@@JoseHernandez-lf6cr thanks! I would love a 10k lift too.
Link where you got it for 2k please
www.arescoequipment.com
I’m sure prices have changed in the last 2 years.
Race tools direct has them on sale for 2700
I like the lift tanks for the price cheap
Thanks!
Looked at them all for 2 yrs and bought a 14k lift for my super duty. Much wider and easier to use.
That sounds so nice!
A 9000lb lift isnt even close to enough lift for a 3/4 ton truck. You shouldn't have a 3/4 truck on anything under 10k and really 12k is more applicable. You will exceed the single arm capacity before you exceed the total lift capacity.
Thanks, Rich. It’s likely I was maxing out the 2250 lb rating on the front arms with the Superduty weighing 6,800 lbs. I wasn’t thinking about the weight bias vs the single arm rating at the time.
No way I would put a super duty truck on that lift without ceiling fasteners
I have a 7000 lb globe Canada lift and a 10,000 pound China aplus lift l would put 10,000 pounds on the globe but never the aplus
Would be easy for you to fasten yours too the ceiling also
You’re right. It does not look like a 9000lb lift to me either. Those arms are skinny
Glad I’m not the only one.
I don't think that's rated for a super duty.
Depends on the Super Duty.
@Shawn Ferret It is not rated for a superduty, the weight capacity is, but the arms are not due to the added weight the diesels and 1tons have FURTHER out than the half tons and gassers, that is why there's such a price difference between the 9k and 10k lbs lifts from ALL brands, and all reputable brands state this. Although it will lift it, it's heavily not recommended.
@@madison69 exactly right. A 9k is only 2250 per arm. My duramax is 8k total. 5k in front and 3k in back. The front would be over loaded by 500lbs
@@barryrhyno3190 totally agree the front arms could be overloaded trying to lift a diesel truck. I will never even try with this lift. Luckily the 2012 Super Duty I lifted had a gas engine with a curb weight somewhere between 6-7k lbs. Older ones with the 5.4L weigh even less.
I would NOT buy a Chinese lift at the lowest end of the spectrum. If you're a home shop mechanic, you don't want to buy a two post lift more than once. This lift sells for 3K, (3500 with shipping). Chances are you'll be like most of us, and use it far more than you expected. I use my lift literally every week, some weeks every day. They tend to get used, unlike your treadmill or exercise bike.
The point is, buy a good lift, buy it once and be done. If I had a 4K budget for my auto lift, I would be shopping equipment auctions for a used US made Challenger, Rotary or Mohawk. Yes, it will be out of warranty, and you'll need to arrange for shipping and installation. You may need to do a little work on it to get it back into perfect condition. But if you have the mechanical skills enough that you actually need a 2 post lift, you have the skills to do minor repairs and install it yourself.
Good video. Just be a bit more lively.
way over loaded
Great job. donald for prison 2024