Since a few people have asked... I just finished setting my XPR-10AS-LP up. My ceiling is 12ft 1-1/2”. There is JUST ENOUGH room to stand the posts up, if you rotate them up so the notch in the posts is up. That puts the flange with the post closest to the edge near the ground. Of course. I also did the entire operation by myself! Used my gantry, and a 1T chain hoist. If you sling/choke just under the 2 large welded tabs where the latch goes, you’re just above the center of gravity. So as you lift, the flange will stay on the ground. Took me maybe 20 minutes to stand them both up.
Those safety switches do work pretty good. I own my own shop, i have 2 bendpak lifts and have never had a problem with this switch failing, although on most car it never touches the switch even at full height, but trucks, suv & vans it does. I would wire it in anyways just to have that added safety, so if you get distracted and raise a vehicle and not pay attention and then dent the roof from the crossbar of the lift
Differently some vehicles last minute or just some being pain these can save you from crushing a roof or knocking a vehicle off a lift I can't remember what I was working on but I lift it up thanking about job at hand i had arms all perfect i new i was in the clear but the vehicle was tall im tall so you get yousta how many clicks or the height you like it one day it stops low you can belike thank god for that cable I've worked in tall shops with open tops i was at small shop loved it owner was previously a mechanic him self alowed me to right every thing up for customer to see be for doing work if it mint jigling and tracing every wire checking every ground fuse even compression check smoke michine and before claiming anything bad some customer would state what they wanted done we would do as customer ordered but alot of times i could still find somthing on forms for gm tech but swore off hes computer and 3 million dollars and tools that i was blessed to use wish i could aford he and hes wife blessed me with a job for 6+ months till covid shut us down we tried making it through it eventually cleared the lot i asked for job back later and couldnt do 15$ hour witch i proubly should have taking i was happy there if yall are ever introuble on i70 jason at trackside automotive never skimps is a loving hearted guy very passionate about what he does ive only does in house while i travel and lose tools and spend a fortune in fuel to point I end up fixxing cars for love of it
Decent video. It took me and two other people 5 hours to completely install. We stood both posts, leveled, squared, anchored, then ran the cables and hyd line. Two people routing the hoses ect, and one working on the wiring. Good job and your video definitely gave me tips and made the job easier. XPR-10S was the lift I put up for reference 12'4" walls plenty of room.
Four-plus years later and I can tell you that my instructions say 85 ft-lbs so good call on the Tq. I'll be referencing this video when I put mine up. Thanks for the LONG, in-depth video!
Thanks for taking the time to post a great video. And you are right to be concerned about BendPak's breaker recommendation.My buddy is an electrician and he tells me that the breaker is there to protect the smallest wire in the circuit. There is nothing wrong with running 10 gauge wire from the panel and connecting it to smaller gauge wire. The problem comes when you install a breaker that can handle more current than wire it is protecting. Since you checked the current draw and found that it does not exceed 15 amps, and you know that there is 14 gauge wire in the circuit, for safety reasons and to provide more protection for your equipment you might want to replace the "oversized" breaker with a 15A.It might not ever be an issue, but I can tell that you are a guy that likes to do things right. Show that drawing of the circuit to a certified electrician and ask them for their opinion.
Wish I could "Like" this 5 or more times cause I am almost completed doing my same style lift and I just luv this Video. Did mine completely by myself and fortunate enough to have a household style gantry to to assist me along with a hand pump scissor lift. Another day and I too will be up and running, thanks for the Vid.
Very impressive. Thanks for taking the time to put the series of videos together! I ordered my Benpack XPR-10S-LP this past Friday and hope to get it next week. I will definitely be referring to this video for help assembling it!
Finally done and working... Several hours spread out over a month of cold evenings. One of many points that is not made clear in the instructions is that the longer equalizer cable starts on the power post. Should have been made clear in the instructions as they will not work the other way. I picked up straight fittings for the bottom of the cylinders. There is enough space in the carriage notch to allow the hose to connect on a straight rather than the 90 degree they supplied. I bolted one post securely to the floor, fastened the second loosely with two studs so I could move it a bit to get the crossover assembly to drop in and bolt up easily. I found that shimming is very important. When the base is welded to the post there is some slight warping. The edge of the plate is actually 1/32 of an inch off the floor, which you can see when you rock the column. If the shims are not used, torquing the studs will require flexing that base plate until it contacts the concrete. Use the shims while checking posts for plumb. Someone mentioned epoxy... not necessary, but a good idea. I smeared a heavy coat on the studs above the expanding collar, hammered them in place and tightened.. best of both worlds. To the Repair Geek... great video, thank you for posting this. Secondly, if your girlfriend is willing to help in the shop.. she's a keeper.
Hi Which straight fitting did you used? I do not like the 90 degree angle because I can not tighten it as much as I would like to because of the angle.
Awesome video! I was able to unpack and prep my towers in just a couple hours thanks to you. Way easier for me to understand than the installation manual.
Thanks a lot for posting this video. There aren't many videos like this regarding installing a bendpak lift, none of them are in this detail. In the process of ordering a smaller version of this lift. I've read where many people complain about the instructions being vague, also heard a lot about lifts arriving scratched up which is b/s in my opinion. The biggest obstacle right now is getting it delivered. I'm afraid I'm going to have to be the one to sign the bill of lading. I'm going to subscribe, please post any updates that you feel are Relevant. Thanks again, this was very helpful.
skoal22005 thank you. When your just starting out on RUclips comments like this are great motivation. I'm going to be posting a review video in the next few months after some real use.
I had mine delivered to a place called Sun Belt tool rental. I met the truck there and one of the employees unloaded it and set it on my tailor. I know one thing, if I ever need to rent a tool again, I will go to Sun Belt rental. Super nice people..
Just a FYI the latest version of the instructions for this lift states the anchor bolts need to torqued to a min of 110 foot pounds and max of 150 foot pounds so you might want to increase the clamping force and check the cable tightness they do stretch over time
With regard to the use of short 14awg wire internal to the lift and safety switch verses the 10awg or 12 awg feeder from the circuit breaker panel, there is no issue or problem. NEC requires a heavier conductor for the long run to the panel to keep voltage drop less than about 3%. The short run of 14awg will easily carry the 20 amp load or even more without appreciable voltage drop or heating. The NEC rules apply to the house wiring and not to the appliance (lift).
Thanks for the video. Just finished unboxing and unloading mine yesterday. Going to start install this weekend using your video as a guide. I'm not to fond of the printed instructions.
Wonderful vid Real World stuff Loved the logic and the willingness to accept responsibility when things went wrong. Thank you for sharing your experience and are your friends available next weekend!
Nice demo:) Your illustration was the best I have found. I have a Danmar D10/AC which is packaged the same as a Bend Pak and seems to have the same instructions. Other than the paint and decals my lift and your lift seem identical. My lift is installed with the exception of the electric. I can't find anyone who will discuss that with me. I do the majority of electrical jobs around my house but have no formal or in depth electrical training. I do feel that it is a doable job for me with a slight bit more amplification. I bought a roll of 10-3(red black white) with ground wire and 30 amp 220-volt breaker that will accommodate the two hot wires(red and black), with the common(white) and copper ground which hooks to the common ground in the breaker box. I do know that 220 means that the two hot wires (red amd black) each carries 110 volts equalling 220 volts. I do not understand how a 10-2 wire can be 220 volts unless that is essentially a white(substituted for red) and black wire. I am guessing that if I use the 10-2 wire I will use the black and white wires as hot and of course ground with the copper and have no common. I am thinking I should buy 10-2(black (white substitute for red?)) with ground wire and possibly and the same breaker. Would really appreciate any help you might offer. Best Regards :)
If your lift is identical to mine I would run 10-2. 10-3 has an additional red wire which would be used as a power. If you use 10-2 black is power, white is power, copper is ground. No neutral. You can run 10-3 with black as power, red as power, white unused, and copper ground. Running 10-2 will be cheaper because you're not paying for an additional conductor you're not using.
Thanks for the response. I have all my wires in place now but could use assistance making the final connections. Power to Motor: I ran 8-2 power from panel box as I am a long way from the panel box in my basement. There is a partially wired electric module in the electric box at the motor. Obviously, this is where I need to connect L1 and L2. Nothing says L1 or L2 and there are numerous screws to connect to in the module. I was unable to identify the L1 and L2 terminals at the motor. Microswitch: My Danmar D10/AC also has the same exact 14 gauge wire cord as you have. The three switch wires on the motor end were prewired with a short lead coming off that I merely spliced like colored wires black, white, green to the three leads. The green wire is simply connected to a ground screw at the motor. I still do not know how to wire up the little switch block with the lever which has three screws to connect for the overhead. Going from left to right on the micro switch block. Screw 1 Says Com over top and a 1 underneath. The middle screw says NO over the top and there is a 3 underneath. The rightmost screw has NC over the top and a 2 underneath. There is an = sign between the 1 and 2. Illustration below. Com NO NC Screw Screw Screw 1 = 3 2 Any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated. Best regards, Ralph Folden foldenra@gmail.com
I stepped through video on the electrical several times and realized that you did not connect the switch which is fine and I did catch how you applied L1 and L2. I understand your reasoning for not hooking up the switch. I am going to hook mine up with hopes that it might save me from making a big mistake. There should be a way to make one of the garage safety mechanisms work on this thing. Thanks again for doing such a good job on your video. Ralph
The only thing that will get even close to the overhead limit switch is a full size truck. My F150 does not touch it with the lift all the way up. If you have any other questions send me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
thats good to know I am having some people install mine and Ill be hooking it up first without the switch just because of time savings appreciate the video as well. I just didn't have anyone to help me lift the columns in place so it is what it is.
I bought the "GP-7LC" model and a major difference is that the overhead arm is a substantial, and heavy, hunk of steel. It houses the single hydraulic cylinder used in that design, and there is no way two guys on ladders could carry it up as demonstrated with this model.
Wow--The model you got (or closest to it now available) now costs $4,300. You got yours for $3K, which is what I paid for my lighter-duty model. Your timing was right!
3/4 inch anchors according to Simpson strong tie get torqued to 150 ft pounds. I bought 8.5” long bolts because my concrete was thick enough and it torqued fine with no damage to the concrete.
As far as the gauge of the safety wire, I haven't seen the full schematics, but the safety should only send power to the coil on the relay through the button where the main power has to run the pump. The coil on the relay should only pull an amp or so where the pump's power requirements should be on the plate on the motor. The fact that the safety switch has a thinner gauge wire going to it doesn't matter. That's why you have a heavier wire to the lift. As far as your hearing air coming from the top of the cylinder, from what I could see from the diagram, hydraulic fluid is only being pumped into the bottom of the cylinders, the top side has air in it, as you raise the lift, that air has to be vented to the atmosphere or else it would be compressed inside the top of the cylinder when the piston raises up, which would increase the load on the pump and probably blow out the piston seals. The top side piston vents should have filters on them to keep dirt out of the pistons.
Question on the wiring.... why run power to motor then run a 10' 2 wire run for the switch? Why not just run power past switch to motor? Is the switch not rated high enough? The 2 wire approach is the same thing.....right? What am I missing here? I've said it before but worth repeating...great video resource. Thank you.
How many amp does the magnetic coil pulls in the relay? That small wire to the safety switch breaks the connection between the switch and the magnetic relay coil not the motor winding. So it has nothing to do with the 10/2 power feed
XPR10-AS Question, page 24 installation manual. Warning- verify cylinder clamps….. what is the purpose of the cylinder clamps? I did not see them installed on your video, but it seems like they would interfere with the lifting operation of the lift head. Would be nice to see a closeup of the lift being raised.
With the foot guards, shims and anchor bolts in place, tighten by securing the nut to the base then turning 3-5 full turns clockwise (90 ft-lbs.). DO NOT use an impact wrench for this procedure. so you were close at 85 #. check the torque again after using the lift a bunch of times
Just installed that same lift and towards the end of the instructions there is a page that states the torque specs of the anchor bolts. 75-110 pounds is what it tells you.
It is a sealer. Any tapered tread like NPT relies on teflon tape or pipe dope to seal the helix path between the treads. Regular non tapered treads rely on a shoulder or o-ring seal somewhere. Lubrication and anti-seize is a secondary benefit.
I'm thinking the XPR-10A-LP must have been discontinued. Closest BendPak I can find at Summit is over $5k, and only 2 units are under $5k, with those being the low-lift "Grand Prix" series. Just my luck! All the reasons for going with BendPak made sense until I looked at the current prices. The BendPak website is pretty hard to follow, with so many lifts having seemingly very similar model numbers. I had hoped to see what was different between the XPR-10A-LP and the current offerings, but it seemed I was going around in circles.
Good prep for my 10APX install. Surprised you didn’t put an emergency shutoff switch on the post and use the overhead safety. If you ever had an insurance claim, it wouldn’t go well.
I could be wrong but as i reed the instructions it appears you could have mounted the motor on the driver side or more correctly you could have use the motor post on the driver side, which would have put the motor to the back of the post and out of your walk way. the rest of the install would have been the same. That would have prevented you having the motor on the passenger side and blocking your walkway. If you look at the base plates they are shaped in such a way that either post can be the driver or passenger side to allow for flexibility. Again could be wrong but that is my interpretation on their directions. Great Video!
You are not the first person to mention doing something like that. I had a person comment on the shop requirements video say that he put the columns in the wrong spot by mistake. He found out when he went to run the wiring to the overhead limit switch. The wiring was too short. He also said that the equalizing cables fit badly in the pulleys. I also had another person tell me to turn the lift 180 degrees and back the car into the bay. I didn't see how that would have fixed anything and just moved the issue from one side to the other. In any case my lift is lagged. I'm not doing a complete disassembly at this point. I would move the mount before I moved the columns. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I gotta ask. How did you tighten the 27mm nut on the equalizing cable?? I can’t a deep socket on it. Only thing I have is the box wrench, which is taking FOREVER
Hello great video I’ve was checking on This when you first uploaded the video. I’m looking to add the same lift to my 30x40 shop just one question how far are the post from your side walls the owners manual says 3 feet but that’s seems to far just curious how far are yours and do you have any room issues doing wheel axles or any type side suspension work thank you
Very helpful vidjao!! We learn more mistakes than from success, your's were very useful. How did you get those cable ends to fit into the u-shaped slots in the carriage? I made the decision to stand the posts up before routing hoses and cables because I had the help. Not how I would have preferred. Thanks again!!
Just wanted to comment on your video for the safety switch wiring, you were concerned that they gave you 14ga wire. Since the wire has 4 conductors i connected 2 together so it doubles the gauge. Also did the same way putting the top piece on first before bolting it down, im guessing its a safety reason they tell you to bolt the lift first. I cant imagine trying to bolt it first, it would be impossible to line that top up.
Okay, how come my sheaves up top are reverse of yours? My furthest away sheaves is opposite the approach now that it’s up. I don’t think the bridge can be flipped per the bolt holes.
The Safety Switch does not use a full 30 Amp it is there to Stop full run the 14 guage will handle 240 volts , when any wiring is done on anything sold in the USA or CANADA it has to go through testing in the USA "UL" or in Canada "CSA" THEY MUST Approve it before it can be put up for sale to the consumer , use the safety switch the wiring is safe enough and it is not carrying full load . it is a Micro switch and has nothing to do with the load the motor is under , I urge you to reconsider using this switch , I Assume your a Mechanic which means you use these lifts daily however for the average home owner who wants a lift all SAFETYS should be used they are there for a reason and the mere fact 14 guage was used should not be a deterent as an Electrician I've installed Several of these lifts I've yet to see an issue with the wiring or safety switches.
I am installing similar lift (xpr-10as) how did you install the elbow fitting in the cylinder? You didn't show in video. On mine, the fitting is NPT and the cylinder is different, i suspect BSP. These threads are not compatible. They are close enough to force in in, but eventually it will leak. Also, nice detail video, so far the best I've seen. Thanks
I am in the process of setting up an asymmetrical BendPak. I found your videos and find them quite helpful. You are right, and expressed it kindly, the instructions are "Vague"..... this is one product that I definitely recommend reading through the entire booklet first. I was hoping to see how you placed the "Button" end of the balance cable in the Lock Plate, inside that carriage. I'm a big guy, am I really supposed to be able to stick my entire arm down in that tiny hole ?? What holds the button in place to prevent it from popping back out, Luck ? Sure would have been nice if the Chinese factory had had one of the kids put that together before it was all packed up. I plan to cheat a bit, as I usually work alone. I am going to lift the post with the forks on my tractor, secure it to the trusses above and then lower so it can swing into an upright position.
Tension on the cable holds it in place. You can use some tape to hold it in the bracket. If the cable falls out of the bracket when the post is vertical it is much harder to put back in place. I know from experience haha. Just FYI.
My biggest problem is getting down inside the carriage to set the cable button in the bracket... my carriage is completely enclosed with a 5 inch access hole in the top, which is where it seems you took your videos from. I have the post standing already. Were you able to reach down through that 5 inch hole or did you use a tool of some sort to position the cable button ?
@@edburgett4561 I used air to raise the cylinder and go up from the bottom. If you get the safety mechanism assembled you can raise the column up to the lock with air pressure. I tried my engine hoist before resorting to air but I could not get the carriage high enough for good access.
@@RepairGeek thanks for this. Was pretty sure I was missing something. Do the hydraulic lines go in and out of the double tabs as the lift moves up and down? Just seems like there would be a better way to ensure that the hydraulic lines stay out of the way. Thx
I'm about to install my lift and most 3/4 fasteners are torqued to 100-150 ft/lbs lift on the market and you check torque at 80 ft/lbs. Did you vacuum the holes out? I see alot of people drill thru the slab so they can pound the fasteners thru in the future or if there's an issue.
Hey man, I found your video while doing research on a hoist for my home shop. Great job documenting all processes and procedures. Question for you, do you still like it? I'm on the fence between this and a Rotary... I'm not sure it's worth that much more for the Rotary in my home shop using it a handful of times a week. Is it still doing everything you ask it to? Thanks man ~Mike
Yep other than initial cylinder problems the lift has been fine. The largest vehicle that I've had on it was a brand new Dodge 3500, 6.7 Cummins, 4x4, with the giant megacab and a short bed. You could tell when lowering the vehicle you were dealing with a LARGE amount of weight. If i was lifting a vehicle that size all the time I would invest in a larger unit. I looked at Rotary units as well but they were about $1500 more for a comparable unit. My suggestion would be to take a hard look at Danmar. I believe they are coming out of the same factory in China as the Bendpaks but are cheaper and are painted a different color. Every Danmar I've seen looks identical to the Bendpak. I don't think you can go wrong as long as you're buying an ALI certified unit.
Also I see you didn't use any epoxy on your anchor bolts? I'm in the process of researching which to use, I think we are going to use this for good measure.
Got to tell you that with any experience reading instructions and diagrams that picture of where the fitting went through the column was clear as can be. Other wise great job.
How far are you from the wall to the post? I’m installing one this weekend. One side is close to the wall. I hope there is enough room to get around.. thanks.
I am in the process of deciding on a two post lift for my new garage. The Triumph is $1700 and the Bendpak is $2700. Is it worth 1k more for the Bendpak?? Great vids!!!
How do you get the cable in the u-shaped slot in the carriage in the first step? I’ve got my lift laid on blocks like you did but I can’t reach inside the carriage to set the cable in the u-shaped bracket... Any advice? Great video BTW!
Haha thanks for the quick reply. I guess I need a skinny friend to help me out! Awesome video. I’m just starting to install my lift and this video is wayyyy better than the instructions!
AWESOME assembly video. I am purchasing this exact same lift myself. Question for you: With a load on the lift, have you ever measured to see how much the lift arms deflect? I am pretty curious. Nice talking with a peer. I too am an industrial mechanic. 29 years this month.
I haven't. They do deflect more with a truck on the lift obviously because the arms are extended out further to reach the frame. It never feels unsafe. Sorry it took so long for a reply. I never got a notification :/
Hello again. another question for you: Before the Bendpak, did you check into the Rotary Revolution series of lifts? If so, I am curious as to what you thought. I can't decide between the Bendpak you got and one of the revolution lifts. Both lifts are made in China. What's bugging me about the Bendpak is the damage from shipping. I am hearing your same story from nearly everyone I talked with who bought it.
@@keithkillian7581 I did not look at them because they were not as available as a Bendpak was. I'm not sure about the revolution series but all of the Rotarys I saw were $1500 more than the Bendpak for the same specifications. My suggestion would be to try and look at both of them in person and compare the build quality.
@@keithkillian7581 my biggest gripe with a Bendpak is the lack of attention to detail. Just like it arriving scratched up. The hardware they use looks and feels cheap. The motor contactor for example is the cheapest off brand motor starter I've ever seen. According to one commenter they stopped using the contactor and are just using the button to handle 13 amps on the new models. Then, they didn't bother changing the wiring directions reflecting the removal of the contactor. The commentor thought they were missing parts until he called Bendpak and they told him it was removed. The frame and the arms are well built and safe but, every thing else just seems cheap.
I very much appreciate your response. The revolution series is a ALI certified lift that was built to compete with the price point of your Bendpak. They are within about $100.00 of each lift. Although it says made by Rotary, I think they are using the brand name is all. There is a TINY sticker on the lift that says rotary and you'll be hard pressed to find the word Rotary on the revolution website. They are easily available though where I live in Wisconsin. I will at least look at them before deciding. It sure is frustrating paying out a lot of hard earned cash for a cheaply built product. I hope the pump/motor assembly on your lift is better made then the cheap contactor. I also wondered about the quality of the cylinders after you said both of yours leaked. That would have angered me. All the machines I work on at my job are German made and although they are sometimes way over engineered, they are always built with top notch components. Stay tuned fellow industrial mechanic. I'll keep you in the loop with the Evolution lifts. Have a great day.
I'm currently going through the misery of putting the same lift together. The instructions are TERRIBLE and I find myself saying the same things as you. How the hell you supposed to zip tie the hoses back 🤦🏿♀️ Or why isn't this mentioned in the instruction manual! I do like your idea of bending the tabs in btw. They should have had the hydraulic lines be the first process. Everytime I move the lift block around to pinch the clips in the cable falls out of the U shaped piece. Anyways glad you made this video 👍 this process would have been awful if you didn't make this video. So thanks 👍
Out of curiosity, do you have any issues with your individual arm safety locks not automatically sliding in? None of mine seem to and I have to walk around to each arm and move it slightly to get them to lock.
In previous video you showed your truck in your bay to determine column location and in this video you have gone ahead and marked out (and installed) the columns. How deep is your bay and how far off the front wall did you place the columns? further back than the minimum 99" shown in bendpak's literature?
So from the center line of the column to the garage door at the back of the bay is 14ft 6in. From the center of the column to the nearest front obstruction (worknench) is 10 ft. The bay itself is 16x28. If I had to do it over again my columns would be in exactly the same place. I have enough room to walk around the vehicle and work at the bench. I'm putting together a review video right now. It will be out in the next couple of weeks. If you need more information sooner send me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com.
Repair Geek .. Thanks for the reply. I was measuring at 10' from the front wall (no box or bench in front). That gives me 4-5' in front of every one of my vehicles. Seemed like enough, but wasn't sure. Sounds like I have good ballpark figures. My shop is 40'*32'.
There is no reason you can't do that but, it's going to much easier to preassemble that stuff on the floor. You have to route a hydraulic line behind the carriage, with the post on the floor you can move that carriage inside the column. Once it's vertical you will struggle to do that. Not to mention having to up and down a ladder constantly.
I have a round washer with finger like things inside of it .its probably 1 " or so i cant find any mention of it in directions. Do you remember where it went?
Awesome Vid but had to pick up something that may be a crucial flaw. I saw a can of WD40 laying in your posts, not sure where you would use this on a new lift and if you had to hope is just short term as that is all this junk is for, They should actually take WD40 off the market as it is the best rust promoter if left on any length of time. Been in the Aircraft industry 30 yrs and better penetrating /lubricating fluid is ACF 50, Aerokroil, PB, Liquid wrench. Or if actually using as a penetrating fluid and out performs anything on the market is 50% synthetic transmission fluid and 50% Acetone (wear goggles). Just wanted to mention this as love your Vids and hopefully with lots of consideration you will junk that stuff.
Hello Repair Geek, I have a question for you. I am looking at this lift for my shop. Although, it will be the asymmetrical version. The ceiling height in my shop will be 12 feet 6 inches. With that being said, my question is this. I know the lift only needs 12.08 feet of clearance when installed. However, I am concerned that the height might not be enough. If you measure from the bottom right corner of the column to the top left corner, that will be more than 12.08 feet. So when you are standing up the column from a parallel position on the ground, I am worried it will hit the ceiling before it stands up right due to the extra length. What is the measurement of your lift from one corner of a column to the opposite side at the top of that same column?
Brian Padrick I just measured mine from top to bottom going from opposite corner to opposite corner it's 12ft 1in 1/4. Let me know if you need anything else.
Repair Geek awesome. Thanks so much! I really appreciate it. The builders have not put the trusses in yet so if I needed to go higher, I still could. Thanks again. That really helped.
Do you have a part number for that relay inside the pump box? Mine did not come with one. Called Bendpak and havent received a response yet. Thinking about getting one locally. Thanks
It doesn't have much on it. The only brand information is: Contactor TMC-18 It's just a contactor with a 110v coil. It shouldn't be hard to source through some one like Granger or McMaster. If you Google: Allen Bradley 110v contactor you should find what you need.
@@tdettmann11 WOW!!! I guess that 3 dollar Chinese contactor was costing them too much money. Hopefully they gave you a heavy duty button that will handle 12 or 14 amps. Unbelievable...
@@tdettmann11 did the your wiring instructions look like mine? I just wonder if they even bothered to update the instructions when they made a revision to how the lift is wired.
The following is "how" to get around the problem you had trying to get the gantry to align. Please click on the link and fast forward to the 4:00 time stamp: ruclips.net/video/tv4-ieB3qp8/видео.html
The engineer that designed the equalizing cable retainers needs to be horse whipped. I found out the hard way. If you have a good sized magnet, put it across the cable slot to keep the cable from falling out. After the beams are standing up you can remove the magnet. If you have large arms like me, there's NO way to get the cable back in easily.
"I'm just gonna use air to move the cylinders cause it wont hurt anything".... next video update, "so uh both my cylinder's were leaking" luckily bendpak didn't see your video or they probably wouldn't have sent them to you.
The replacements are leaking as well. They we're tested at the factory with oil, so they had residual oil in them. As evidenced by the oil that had dripped out of the hydraulic line I pressurized.
Not installing that safety switch is a stupid decision and your reasoning is even more stupid. If the switch arcs closed or the contactor does (what you called a relay) the vehicle is going to continue going up until it gets crushed and breaks the lift. If you have expensive vehicles on the lift, it's even more reason to have the safety switch operational.
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Since a few people have asked...
I just finished setting my XPR-10AS-LP up. My ceiling is 12ft 1-1/2”. There is JUST ENOUGH room to stand the posts up, if you rotate them up so the notch in the posts is up. That puts the flange with the post closest to the edge near the ground. Of course.
I also did the entire operation by myself! Used my gantry, and a 1T chain hoist. If you sling/choke just under the 2 large welded tabs where the latch goes, you’re just above the center of gravity. So as you lift, the flange will stay on the ground. Took me maybe 20 minutes to stand them both up.
My Bendpak is ordered and coming so this video will be a lifesaver. Thank you
Those safety switches do work pretty good. I own my own shop, i have 2 bendpak lifts and have never had a problem with this switch failing, although on most car it never touches the switch even at full height, but trucks, suv & vans it does.
I would wire it in anyways just to have that added safety, so if you get distracted and raise a vehicle and not pay attention and then dent the roof from the crossbar of the lift
Differently some vehicles last minute or just some being pain these can save you from crushing a roof or knocking a vehicle off a lift I can't remember what I was working on but I lift it up thanking about job at hand i had arms all perfect i new i was in the clear but the vehicle was tall im tall so you get yousta how many clicks or the height you like it one day it stops low you can belike thank god for that cable I've worked in tall shops with open tops i was at small shop loved it owner was previously a mechanic him self alowed me to right every thing up for customer to see be for doing work if it mint jigling and tracing every wire checking every ground fuse even compression check smoke michine and before claiming anything bad some customer would state what they wanted done we would do as customer ordered but alot of times i could still find somthing on forms for gm tech but swore off hes computer and 3 million dollars and tools that i was blessed to use wish i could aford he and hes wife blessed me with a job for 6+ months till covid shut us down we tried making it through it eventually cleared the lot i asked for job back later and couldnt do 15$ hour witch i proubly should have taking i was happy there if yall are ever introuble on i70 jason at trackside automotive never skimps is a loving hearted guy very passionate about what he does ive only does in house while i travel and lose tools and spend a fortune in fuel to point I end up fixxing cars for love of it
Decent video. It took me and two other people 5 hours to completely install. We stood both posts, leveled, squared, anchored, then ran the cables and hyd line. Two people routing the hoses ect, and one working on the wiring. Good job and your video definitely gave me tips and made the job easier. XPR-10S was the lift I put up for reference 12'4" walls plenty of room.
Four-plus years later and I can tell you that my instructions say 85 ft-lbs so good call on the Tq.
I'll be referencing this video when I put mine up. Thanks for the LONG, in-depth video!
Been 2-years. Do you recall is 85 actually 3 to 5 turns?
@@bigearn8782 Are you asking how many turns it takes to reach 85 ft-lbs?
Thanks for taking the time to post a great video. And you are right to be concerned about BendPak's breaker recommendation.My buddy is an electrician and he tells me that the breaker is there to protect the smallest wire in the circuit. There is nothing wrong with running 10 gauge wire from the panel and connecting it to smaller gauge wire. The problem comes when you install a breaker that can handle more current than wire it is protecting. Since you checked the current draw and found that it does not exceed 15 amps, and you know that there is 14 gauge wire in the circuit, for safety reasons and to provide more protection for your equipment you might want to replace the "oversized" breaker with a 15A.It might not ever be an issue, but I can tell that you are a guy that likes to do things right. Show that drawing of the circuit to a certified electrician and ask them for their opinion.
It definitely seems fishy, no doubt. There is no good reason for it other than to cut costs as far as I can tell.
you're only running 1 line through the safety switch, its never going to pull more than 15A.
Wish I could "Like" this 5 or more times cause I am almost completed doing my same style lift and I just luv this Video. Did mine completely by myself and fortunate enough to have a household style gantry to to assist me along with a hand pump scissor lift. Another day and I too will be up and running, thanks for the Vid.
Very impressive. Thanks for taking the time to put the series of videos together! I ordered my Benpack XPR-10S-LP this past Friday and hope to get it next week. I will definitely be referring to this video for help assembling it!
No problem. If you run into some issues let me know. Just dealing with the weight of it is really the worst part. Once it's lagged it goes quickly.
Finally done and working... Several hours spread out over a month of cold evenings. One of many points that is not made clear in the instructions is that the longer equalizer cable starts on the power post. Should have been made clear in the instructions as they will not work the other way. I picked up straight fittings for the bottom of the cylinders. There is enough space in the carriage notch to allow the hose to connect on a straight rather than the 90 degree they supplied. I bolted one post securely to the floor, fastened the second loosely with two studs so I could move it a bit to get the crossover assembly to drop in and bolt up easily. I found that shimming is very important. When the base is welded to the post there is some slight warping. The edge of the plate is actually 1/32 of an inch off the floor, which you can see when you rock the column. If the shims are not used, torquing the studs will require flexing that base plate until it contacts the concrete. Use the shims while checking posts for plumb. Someone mentioned epoxy... not necessary, but a good idea. I smeared a heavy coat on the studs above the expanding collar, hammered them in place and tightened.. best of both worlds. To the Repair Geek... great video, thank you for posting this. Secondly, if your girlfriend is willing to help in the shop.. she's a keeper.
Hi
Which straight fitting did you used? I do not like the 90 degree angle because I can not tighten it as much as I would like to because of the angle.
Awesome video! I was able to unpack and prep my towers in just a couple hours thanks to you. Way easier for me to understand than the installation manual.
No problem. Thanks for watching.
Just got my bendpak lift installed. This video helped me out a lot. Thank you
Thanks a lot for posting this video. There aren't many videos like this regarding installing a bendpak lift, none of them are in this detail. In the process of ordering a smaller version of this lift. I've read where many people complain about the instructions being vague, also heard a lot about lifts arriving scratched up which is b/s in my opinion. The biggest obstacle right now is getting it delivered. I'm afraid I'm going to have to be the one to sign the bill of lading. I'm going to subscribe, please post any updates that you feel are Relevant. Thanks again, this was very helpful.
skoal22005 thank you. When your just starting out on RUclips comments like this are great motivation. I'm going to be posting a review video in the next few months after some real use.
I had mine delivered to a place called Sun Belt tool rental. I met the truck there and one of the employees unloaded it and set it on my tailor. I know one thing, if I ever need to rent a tool again, I will go to Sun Belt rental. Super nice people..
I can`t thank you enough for making this video. you saved me a lot of time with the setup of mine
No problem. Hope it went well for you.
getting hydraulic hoses ran now, trying to round up help to stand up towers, so far so good thanks to your video@@RepairGeek
Just a FYI the latest version of the instructions for this lift states the anchor bolts need to torqued to a min of 110 foot pounds and max of 150 foot pounds so you might want to increase the clamping force and check the cable tightness they do stretch over time
With regard to the use of short 14awg wire internal to the lift and safety switch verses the 10awg or 12 awg feeder from the circuit breaker panel, there is no issue or problem. NEC requires a heavier conductor for the long run to the panel to keep voltage drop less than about 3%. The short run of 14awg will easily carry the 20 amp load or even more without appreciable voltage drop or heating. The NEC rules apply to the house wiring and not to the appliance (lift).
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It really helped with my lift install.
Nicoya are they pretty simple to install. I just purchased one. But wanted to install myself.
very nicely done, good presentation, guys have to keep the car hobby ( old or new cars ) alive for future generations
Thanks for the video. Just finished unboxing and unloading mine yesterday. Going to start install this weekend using your video as a guide. I'm not to fond of the printed instructions.
Thanks for the video, I have been looking for the lock tabs up in there for a few.
Wonderful vid Real World stuff Loved the logic and the willingness to accept responsibility when things went wrong. Thank you for sharing your experience and are your friends available next weekend!
Wow those looked surprisingly easy to stand upright compared to what I was thinking
Nice demo:) Your illustration was the best I have found. I have a Danmar D10/AC which is packaged the same as a Bend Pak and seems to have the same instructions. Other than the paint and decals my lift and your lift seem identical.
My lift is installed with the exception of the electric. I can't find anyone who will discuss that with me. I do the majority of electrical jobs around my house but have no formal or in depth electrical training. I do feel that it is a doable job for me with a slight bit more amplification. I bought a roll of 10-3(red black white) with ground wire and 30 amp 220-volt breaker that will accommodate the two hot wires(red and black), with the common(white) and copper ground which hooks to the common ground in the breaker box. I do know that 220 means that the two hot wires (red amd black) each carries 110 volts equalling 220 volts. I do not understand how a 10-2 wire can be 220 volts unless that is essentially a white(substituted for red) and black wire. I am guessing that if I use the 10-2 wire I will use the black and white wires as hot and of course ground with the copper and have no common.
I am thinking I should buy 10-2(black (white substitute for red?)) with ground wire and possibly and the same breaker. Would really appreciate any help you might offer.
Best Regards :)
If your lift is identical to mine I would run 10-2. 10-3 has an additional red wire which would be used as a power. If you use 10-2 black is power, white is power, copper is ground. No neutral. You can run 10-3 with black as power, red as power, white unused, and copper ground. Running 10-2 will be cheaper because you're not paying for an additional conductor you're not using.
Thanks for the response. I have all my wires in place now but could use assistance making the final connections.
Power to Motor:
I ran 8-2 power from panel box as I am a long way from the panel box in my basement. There is a partially wired electric module in the electric box at the motor. Obviously, this is where I need to connect L1 and L2. Nothing says L1 or L2 and there are numerous screws to connect to in the module. I was unable to identify the L1 and L2 terminals at the motor.
Microswitch:
My Danmar D10/AC also has the same exact 14 gauge wire cord as you have. The three switch wires on the motor end were prewired with a short lead coming off that I merely spliced like colored wires black, white, green to the three leads. The green wire is simply connected to a ground screw at the motor.
I still do not know how to wire up the little switch block with the lever which has three screws to connect for the overhead. Going from left to right on the micro switch block. Screw 1 Says Com over top and a 1 underneath. The middle screw says NO over the top and there is a 3 underneath. The rightmost screw has NC over the top and a 2 underneath. There is an = sign between the 1 and 2. Illustration below.
Com NO NC
Screw Screw Screw
1 = 3 2
Any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Ralph Folden
foldenra@gmail.com
I stepped through video on the electrical several times and realized that you did not connect the switch which is fine and I did catch how you applied L1 and L2. I understand your reasoning for not hooking up the switch. I am going to hook mine up with hopes that it might save me from making a big mistake. There should be a way to make one of the garage safety mechanisms work on this thing.
Thanks again for doing such a good job on your video.
Ralph
The only thing that will get even close to the overhead limit switch is a full size truck. My F150 does not touch it with the lift all the way up. If you have any other questions send me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
thats good to know I am having some people install mine and Ill be hooking it up first without the switch just because of time savings appreciate the video as well. I just didn't have anyone to help me lift the columns in place so it is what it is.
I bought the "GP-7LC" model and a major difference is that the overhead arm is a substantial, and heavy, hunk of steel. It houses the single hydraulic cylinder used in that design, and there is no way two guys on ladders could carry it up as demonstrated with this model.
Wow--The model you got (or closest to it now available) now costs $4,300. You got yours for $3K, which is what I paid for my lighter-duty model. Your timing was right!
3/4 inch anchors according to Simpson strong tie get torqued to 150 ft pounds. I bought 8.5” long bolts because my concrete was thick enough and it torqued fine with no damage to the concrete.
Well I was just reading the bendpak install book and it says recommend torque is 85-95 pounds.
I liked her comment, "Don't tell me, tell the camera". Thank you for sharing.
I like that sloooooow first walk under the car. LOL. Thanks for the video!
great video... i feel much more confident on setting up my lift... thank you
As far as the gauge of the safety wire, I haven't seen the full schematics, but the safety should only send power to the coil on the relay through the button where the main power has to run the pump. The coil on the relay should only pull an amp or so where the pump's power requirements should be on the plate on the motor. The fact that the safety switch has a thinner gauge wire going to it doesn't matter. That's why you have a heavier wire to the lift.
As far as your hearing air coming from the top of the cylinder, from what I could see from the diagram, hydraulic fluid is only being pumped into the bottom of the cylinders, the top side has air in it, as you raise the lift, that air has to be vented to the atmosphere or else it would be compressed inside the top of the cylinder when the piston raises up, which would increase the load on the pump and probably blow out the piston seals. The top side piston vents should have filters on them to keep dirt out of the pistons.
Question on the wiring.... why run power to motor then run a 10' 2 wire run for the switch? Why not just run power past switch to motor? Is the switch not rated high enough? The 2 wire approach is the same thing.....right? What am I missing here?
I've said it before but worth repeating...great video resource. Thank you.
Wondering why you chose not to vacuum the concrete dust from the anchor holes? Otherwise, your video was a good guide to weigh install options.
How many amp does the magnetic coil pulls in the relay? That small wire to the safety switch breaks the connection between the switch and the magnetic relay coil not the motor winding. So it has nothing to do with the 10/2 power feed
XPR10-AS Question, page 24 installation manual. Warning- verify cylinder clamps….. what is the purpose of the cylinder clamps? I did not see them installed on your video, but it seems like they would interfere with the lifting operation of the lift head.
Would be nice to see a closeup of the lift being raised.
With the foot guards, shims and anchor bolts in place,
tighten by securing the nut to the base then turning 3-5 full
turns clockwise (90 ft-lbs.). DO NOT use an impact wrench
for this procedure. so you were close at 85 #. check the torque again after using the lift a bunch of times
I have re-torqued them after some use. Nothing has loosened up. Thanks for the info.
Just installed that same lift and towards the end of the instructions there is a page that states the torque specs of the anchor bolts. 75-110 pounds is what it tells you.
Teflon tape isn't thread sealer, it's lubrication so you can tighten it more to get a deeper seat so to speak. It also helps as acting as anti-seize.
It is a sealer. Any tapered tread like NPT relies on teflon tape or pipe dope to seal the helix path between the treads. Regular non tapered treads rely on a shoulder or o-ring seal somewhere. Lubrication and anti-seize is a secondary benefit.
NOT TRUE!!
NOT TRUE!!
Bet that felt good walking under your car like that. I'll be doing the same soon. Nice video
It was a rather odd feeling. I couldn't help but think, "Man, I hope I built this right". After I realized I was safe it was much more enjoyable haha.
That’s a sweet vise you got there👍
I'm thinking the XPR-10A-LP must have been discontinued. Closest BendPak I can find at Summit is over $5k, and only 2 units are under $5k, with those being the low-lift "Grand Prix" series. Just my luck! All the reasons for going with BendPak made sense until I looked at the current prices. The BendPak website is pretty hard to follow, with so many lifts having seemingly very similar model numbers. I had hoped to see what was different between the XPR-10A-LP and the current offerings, but it seemed I was going around in circles.
Good prep for my 10APX install. Surprised you didn’t put an emergency shutoff switch on the post and use the overhead safety. If you ever had an insurance claim, it wouldn’t go well.
Any vehicle large enough to trip the overhead won't fit inside the garage door. 6 years later, no issues.
I could be wrong but as i reed the instructions it appears you could have mounted the motor on the driver side or more correctly you could have use the motor post on the driver side, which would have put the motor to the back of the post and out of your walk way. the rest of the install would have been the same. That would have prevented you having the motor on the passenger side and blocking your walkway. If you look at the base plates they are shaped in such a way that either post can be the driver or passenger side to allow for flexibility. Again could be wrong but that is my interpretation on their directions. Great Video!
You are not the first person to mention doing something like that. I had a person comment on the shop requirements video say that he put the columns in the wrong spot by mistake. He found out when he went to run the wiring to the overhead limit switch. The wiring was too short. He also said that the equalizing cables fit badly in the pulleys. I also had another person tell me to turn the lift 180 degrees and back the car into the bay. I didn't see how that would have fixed anything and just moved the issue from one side to the other.
In any case my lift is lagged. I'm not doing a complete disassembly at this point. I would move the mount before I moved the columns. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I gotta ask. How did you tighten the 27mm nut on the equalizing cable?? I can’t a deep socket on it. Only thing I have is the box wrench, which is taking FOREVER
Hello great video I’ve was checking on This when you first uploaded the video. I’m looking to add the same lift to my 30x40 shop just one question how far are the post from your side walls the owners manual says 3 feet but that’s seems to far just curious how far are yours and do you have any room issues doing wheel axles or any type side suspension work thank you
Very helpful vidjao!! We learn more mistakes than from success, your's were very useful. How did you get those cable ends to fit into the u-shaped slots in the carriage? I made the decision to stand the posts up before routing hoses and cables because I had the help. Not how I would have preferred. Thanks again!!
congratulations !
Thanks for sharing your installation.
Nicely done.
Just wanted to comment on your video for the safety switch wiring, you were concerned that they gave you 14ga wire. Since the wire has 4 conductors i connected 2 together so it doubles the gauge. Also did the same way putting the top piece on first before bolting it down, im guessing its a safety reason they tell you to bolt the lift first. I cant imagine trying to bolt it first, it would be impossible to line that top up.
Okay, how come my sheaves up top are reverse of yours? My furthest away sheaves is opposite the approach now that it’s up. I don’t think the bridge can be flipped per the bolt holes.
The Safety Switch does not use a full 30 Amp it is there to Stop full run the 14 guage will handle 240 volts , when any wiring is done on anything sold in the USA or CANADA it has to go through testing in the USA "UL" or in Canada "CSA" THEY MUST Approve it before it can be put up for sale to the consumer , use the safety switch the wiring is safe enough and it is not carrying full load . it is a Micro switch and has nothing to do with the load the motor is under , I urge you to reconsider using this switch , I Assume your a Mechanic which means you use these lifts daily however for the average home owner who wants a lift all SAFETYS should be used they are there for a reason and the mere fact 14 guage was used should not be a deterent as an Electrician I've installed Several of these lifts I've yet to see an issue with the wiring or safety switches.
One leg of the 220 runs straight through the switch, it is not a micro switch that works with a relay to disconnect a leg.
I am installing similar lift (xpr-10as) how did you install the elbow fitting in the cylinder? You didn't show in video. On mine, the fitting is NPT and the cylinder is different, i suspect BSP. These threads are not compatible. They are close enough to force in in, but eventually it will leak. Also, nice detail video, so far the best I've seen. Thanks
I am in the process of setting up an asymmetrical BendPak. I found your videos and find them quite helpful. You are right, and expressed it kindly, the instructions are "Vague"..... this is one product that I definitely recommend reading through the entire booklet first. I was hoping to see how you placed the "Button" end of the balance cable in the Lock Plate, inside that carriage. I'm a big guy, am I really supposed to be able to stick my entire arm down in that tiny hole ?? What holds the button in place to prevent it from popping back out, Luck ? Sure would have been nice if the Chinese factory had had one of the kids put that together before it was all packed up.
I plan to cheat a bit, as I usually work alone. I am going to lift the post with the forks on my tractor, secure it to the trusses above and then lower so it can swing into an upright position.
Tension on the cable holds it in place. You can use some tape to hold it in the bracket. If the cable falls out of the bracket when the post is vertical it is much harder to put back in place. I know from experience haha. Just FYI.
My biggest problem is getting down inside the carriage to set the cable button in the bracket... my carriage is completely enclosed with a 5 inch access hole in the top, which is where it seems you took your videos from. I have the post standing already. Were you able to reach down through that 5 inch hole or did you use a tool of some sort to position the cable button ?
@@edburgett4561 I used air to raise the cylinder and go up from the bottom. If you get the safety mechanism assembled you can raise the column up to the lock with air pressure. I tried my engine hoist before resorting to air but I could not get the carriage high enough for good access.
@@RepairGeek thanks for this. Was pretty sure I was missing something.
Do the hydraulic lines go in and out of the double tabs as the lift moves up and down? Just seems like there would be a better way to ensure that the hydraulic lines stay out of the way. Thx
@@dsford1982 I just bent those tabs closed on the hydraulic lines with channellocks. I haven't had any issue.
I'm about to install my lift and most 3/4 fasteners are torqued to 100-150 ft/lbs lift on the market and you check torque at 80 ft/lbs. Did you vacuum the holes out? I see alot of people drill thru the slab so they can pound the fasteners thru in the future or if there's an issue.
Well done for keeping t real ! 1 point though instructions should give a measurement for inside to inside base plates.....enjoy !!
Hey man, I found your video while doing research on a hoist for my home shop. Great job documenting all processes and procedures. Question for you, do you still like it? I'm on the fence between this and a Rotary... I'm not sure it's worth that much more for the Rotary in my home shop using it a handful of times a week. Is it still doing everything you ask it to? Thanks man ~Mike
Yep other than initial cylinder problems the lift has been fine. The largest vehicle that I've had on it was a brand new Dodge 3500, 6.7 Cummins, 4x4, with the giant megacab and a short bed. You could tell when lowering the vehicle you were dealing with a LARGE amount of weight. If i was lifting a vehicle that size all the time I would invest in a larger unit.
I looked at Rotary units as well but they were about $1500 more for a comparable unit. My suggestion would be to take a hard look at Danmar. I believe they are coming out of the same factory in China as the Bendpaks but are cheaper and are painted a different color. Every Danmar I've seen looks identical to the Bendpak. I don't think you can go wrong as long as you're buying an ALI certified unit.
Nice job. Would love to install one, but the peacocks would have it a crusty white mess in a week.
Great videos thinking about a lift myself this helps a lot
Also I see you didn't use any epoxy on your anchor bolts? I'm in the process of researching which to use, I think we are going to use this for good measure.
I would call Bendpak and see what they say to use. The instructions say basically use it if you want to but it's not necessary.
as soon as you said it took you 18 hrs to install, it just confirmed I will be paying the dealer for install
That's exactly why I posted these videos. At least you know you won't be getting in over your head and you know what to expect.
Got to tell you that with any experience reading instructions and diagrams that picture of where the fitting went through the column was clear as can be. Other wise great job.
How far are you from the wall to the post? I’m installing one this weekend. One side is close to the wall. I hope there is enough room to get around.. thanks.
Great job
What happens if the cable is not tight but the bolt inserted in the whole and tighted till end and cable still loose
I am in the process of deciding on a two post lift for my new garage. The Triumph is $1700 and the Bendpak is $2700. Is it worth 1k more for the Bendpak?? Great vids!!!
Buy whatever you want just make sure it's ALI certified.
How did you wire up the unit. I can't find in the video where did the wiring inside the unit.
How do you get the cable in the u-shaped slot in the carriage in the first step? I’ve got my lift laid on blocks like you did but I can’t reach inside the carriage to set the cable in the u-shaped bracket... Any advice? Great video BTW!
My skinny arms fit inside 😁
Haha thanks for the quick reply. I guess I need a skinny friend to help me out! Awesome video. I’m just starting to install my lift and this video is wayyyy better than the instructions!
@@joshwestbrook6219thanks but, the instructions set the bar pretty low haha.
How far did you place each column floor plate from the wall? And how wide is the garage you installed the lift in?
Garage is 16ft wide. Lift is 12ft wide.
@@RepairGeek ty
AWESOME assembly video. I am purchasing this exact same lift myself. Question for you: With a load on the lift, have you ever measured to see how much the lift arms deflect? I am pretty curious. Nice talking with a peer. I too am an industrial mechanic. 29 years this month.
I haven't. They do deflect more with a truck on the lift obviously because the arms are extended out further to reach the frame. It never feels unsafe. Sorry it took so long for a reply. I never got a notification :/
Hello again. another question for you: Before the Bendpak, did you check into the Rotary Revolution series of lifts? If so, I am curious as to what you thought. I can't decide between the Bendpak you got and one of the revolution lifts. Both lifts are made in China. What's bugging me about the Bendpak is the damage from shipping. I am hearing your same story from nearly everyone I talked with who bought it.
@@keithkillian7581 I did not look at them because they were not as available as a Bendpak was. I'm not sure about the revolution series but all of the Rotarys I saw were $1500 more than the Bendpak for the same specifications. My suggestion would be to try and look at both of them in person and compare the build quality.
@@keithkillian7581 my biggest gripe with a Bendpak is the lack of attention to detail. Just like it arriving scratched up. The hardware they use looks and feels cheap. The motor contactor for example is the cheapest off brand motor starter I've ever seen. According to one commenter they stopped using the contactor and are just using the button to handle 13 amps on the new models. Then, they didn't bother changing the wiring directions reflecting the removal of the contactor. The commentor thought they were missing parts until he called Bendpak and they told him it was removed. The frame and the arms are well built and safe but, every thing else just seems cheap.
I very much appreciate your response. The revolution series is a ALI certified lift that was built to compete with the price point of your Bendpak. They are within about $100.00 of each lift. Although it says made by Rotary, I think they are using the brand name is all. There is a TINY sticker on the lift that says rotary and you'll be hard pressed to find the word Rotary on the revolution website. They are easily available though where I live in Wisconsin. I will at least look at them before deciding. It sure is frustrating paying out a lot of hard earned cash for a cheaply built product. I hope the pump/motor assembly on your lift is better made then the cheap contactor. I also wondered about the quality of the cylinders after you said both of yours leaked. That would have angered me. All the machines I work on at my job are German made and although they are sometimes way over engineered, they are always built with top notch components. Stay tuned fellow industrial mechanic. I'll keep you in the loop with the Evolution lifts. Have a great day.
I'm currently going through the misery of putting the same lift together. The instructions are TERRIBLE and I find myself saying the same things as you. How the hell you supposed to zip tie the hoses back 🤦🏿♀️ Or why isn't this mentioned in the instruction manual! I do like your idea of bending the tabs in btw. They should have had the hydraulic lines be the first process. Everytime I move the lift block around to pinch the clips in the cable falls out of the U shaped piece. Anyways glad you made this video 👍 this process would have been awful if you didn't make this video. So thanks 👍
Great Job!
Awesome video!
Shelby Wootang thanks for watching. I know it was a long one.
First I would like to say great on the details throughout the video. My question is how did do you tighten the cable
Out of curiosity, do you have any issues with your individual arm safety locks not automatically sliding in? None of mine seem to and I have to walk around to each arm and move it slightly to get them to lock.
In previous video you showed your truck in your bay to determine column location and in this video you have gone ahead and marked out (and installed) the columns. How deep is your bay and how far off the front wall did you place the columns? further back than the minimum 99" shown in bendpak's literature?
So from the center line of the column to the garage door at the back of the bay is 14ft 6in. From the center of the column to the nearest front obstruction (worknench) is 10 ft. The bay itself is 16x28. If I had to do it over again my columns would be in exactly the same place. I have enough room to walk around the vehicle and work at the bench. I'm putting together a review video right now. It will be out in the next couple of weeks. If you need more information sooner send me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com.
Repair Geek .. Thanks for the reply. I was measuring at 10' from the front wall (no box or bench in front). That gives me 4-5' in front of every one of my vehicles. Seemed like enough, but wasn't sure. Sounds like I have good ballpark figures. My shop is 40'*32'.
Hi
I have the same lift ready to be installed. Can I first install the columns and top bar and deal with the calbles and hydraulics afterwards?
There is no reason you can't do that but, it's going to much easier to preassemble that stuff on the floor. You have to route a hydraulic line behind the carriage, with the post on the floor you can move that carriage inside the column. Once it's vertical you will struggle to do that. Not to mention having to up and down a ladder constantly.
Been 6-years. Do you recall is 85 actually 3 to 5 turns?
No idea. I check the bolts 2x a year at 90 ft lbs. First year or so they would loosen some. It's been rock solid for at least 3 now.
Nice!
What's his regular job?
I have a round washer with finger like things inside of it .its probably 1 " or so i cant find any mention of it in directions. Do you remember where it went?
It goes on release lock mechanism on non power side
It keeps lock release cable from sliding off
Awesome Vid but had to pick up something that may be a crucial flaw. I saw a can of WD40 laying in your posts, not sure where you would use this on a new lift and if you had to hope is just short term as that is all this junk is for, They should actually take WD40 off the market as it is the best rust promoter if left on any length of time. Been in the Aircraft industry 30 yrs and better penetrating /lubricating fluid is ACF 50, Aerokroil, PB, Liquid wrench. Or if actually using as a penetrating fluid and out performs anything on the market is 50% synthetic transmission fluid and 50% Acetone (wear goggles). Just wanted to mention this as love your Vids and hopefully with lots of consideration you will junk that stuff.
I was using the wd40 to route the hydraulic lines the wrong way haha. I eventually caught it and made it right. The can was still nearby that's all.
Hello Repair Geek,
I have a question for you. I am looking at this lift for my shop. Although, it will be the asymmetrical version. The ceiling height in my shop will be 12 feet 6 inches. With that being said, my question is this. I know the lift only needs 12.08 feet of clearance when installed. However, I am concerned that the height might not be enough. If you measure from the bottom right corner of the column to the top left corner, that will be more than 12.08 feet. So when you are standing up the column from a parallel position on the ground, I am worried it will hit the ceiling before it stands up right due to the extra length. What is the measurement of your lift from one corner of a column to the opposite side at the top of that same column?
Brian Padrick I just measured mine from top to bottom going from opposite corner to opposite corner it's 12ft 1in 1/4. Let me know if you need anything else.
Repair Geek awesome. Thanks so much! I really appreciate it. The builders have not put the trusses in yet so if I needed to go higher, I still could. Thanks again. That really helped.
just installed my bendpak in my newly constructed shop with the trusses and 12'6" and there is plenty of room with hoist up.good luck
I understand I should throw away the instructions as soon as I get my lift. You did
Did the relay come with it or did u buy it separately
Came with it.
At 2:48 how the hell did you get it to fit in that U piece?! I can’t even reach it physically?!
Small arms lol.
SO you disconnected the safety switch that is connected to the bar at the top ? Is that what I am getting here?
Exactly. The way I wired it, it isn't used.
Mine is arriving Friday , well hook er up without the chinesium micro switch lol
What was the distance between the two posts?
Do you have a part number for that relay inside the pump box? Mine did not come with one. Called Bendpak and havent received a response yet. Thinking about getting one locally. Thanks
It doesn't have much on it. The only brand information is: Contactor TMC-18
It's just a contactor with a 110v coil. It shouldn't be hard to source through some one like Granger or McMaster.
If you Google: Allen Bradley 110v contactor you should find what you need.
Well BendPak replied by saying they don’t use those relays any more and to just wire it up hahaha
@@tdettmann11 WOW!!! I guess that 3 dollar Chinese contactor was costing them too much money. Hopefully they gave you a heavy duty button that will handle 12 or 14 amps. Unbelievable...
Not sure about the button...kinda frustrating because I thought I was missing a part. I’ll know for sure tonight whether or not it works.
@@tdettmann11 did the your wiring instructions look like mine? I just wonder if they even bothered to update the instructions when they made a revision to how the lift is wired.
55:30 No I don't know how it is. My GF could care less about christening the new lift. But she does want me to fix the car cheap!
At 15:00 did you bring your mouth or your back?
Looks to me the guy in the white t-shirt could have done everthing by himself, he would have been my best freind in highschool!
He gets car repairs for life lol
normal speed is about 1.75
the one going to the top has only about 5 amp to it and not 240 v
Correct 4.7-4.8 amps with no load. When the cylinders are at the max height dead heading the pump, it pulls 13 amps. I was too curious not to check.
The following is "how" to get around the problem you had trying to get the gantry to align.
Please click on the link and fast forward to the 4:00 time stamp:
ruclips.net/video/tv4-ieB3qp8/видео.html
pat dee that is a viable option if you have 8 people willing to help you all at the same time.
The engineer that designed the equalizing cable retainers needs to be horse whipped. I found out the hard way. If you have a good sized magnet, put it across the cable slot to keep the cable from falling out. After the beams are standing up you can remove the magnet. If you have large arms like me, there's NO way to get the cable back in easily.
I’m fighting the same thing! Good idea with the magnet! Gonna go get one now!
"I'm just gonna use air to move the cylinders cause it wont hurt anything".... next video update, "so uh both my cylinder's were leaking" luckily bendpak didn't see your video or they probably wouldn't have sent them to you.
The replacements are leaking as well. They we're tested at the factory with oil, so they had residual oil in them. As evidenced by the oil that had dripped out of the hydraulic line I pressurized.
German torque spec.......goodntight
a small truck? what a joke each post is only rated for 1k lbs a truck weighs at least 3k lbs.
Add a zero. It's a 10,000 lb lift.
Not installing that safety switch is a stupid decision and your reasoning is even more stupid. If the switch arcs closed or the contactor does (what you called a relay) the vehicle is going to continue going up until it gets crushed and breaks the lift. If you have expensive vehicles on the lift, it's even more reason to have the safety switch operational.
Wow
Cheap Chinese
Wow