Very good informative video. No one else shows how to install the cables correctly. I have now been able to complete the instalation of my 2 post hoist, thanks.
There aren't very many videos on two post car lifts, yet they are really gaining popularity among the average home garage. Thank you Ian for the informative video. Awesome job.
Yep. This also means making sure anyone who uses the lift knows about this. If the next guys walks up to it to use it and he's unaware of how you purposefully have the lift set up, then perhaps he's less safe without knowing to listen for both locks. The user is only safer if he knows about it.
I have a two post weaver that was made in 1972. It uses chains instead of cables, I’ve had it for almost four years and just recently had to adjust the sync between the two actuators. I’ve looked at new lifts and compared to what I have, they’re not even in the same league. The steel plates on my lift are over an inch thick compared to the 3/8 to 1/2 inch most lifts now days are made from. Funny thing is the actuators are rated at 7000lbs but the towers and lift arms and housing could easily handle twice that amount.
I don't know if Mohawk is the only company that makes 2 post lifts that use purely hydraulic synchronization, but I know that my lift has no wire ropes and pulleys, no plastic slide blocks, and no rubber hydraulic lines. All of those things wear and need replaced every few years. I'm just a home shop guy now, and a Mohawk lift might be overkill, but it's rock solid and essentially maintenance free, and (unless I buy a second one), it will be the last two post lift I ever buy.
I just found your channel and this video. Lots of good useful info here. I have a question about adjusting the cables. My lift is a direct drive 10,000 lb over head unit. The issue I have is not being able to adjust the cables to get much tension on them. I followed the manufacturers instruction, raising the carriages about 3 feet and not resting them on the locks (with no vehicle on the lift). I am out of threads for adjustment and the cables are still loose. One is a little tighter than the other but I can still pull them together so they touch without much effort. When I lower a vehicle one side always starts down before the other. I've had the lift a couple of years and it works fine other than this. Any thoughts? Thanks
Right. The cables are supposed to be taught, not tight. All they do is keep the carriages level. I recommend loosening them off and starting over. Concentrate on getting them level from side to side, and not tight. As you tighten the cable on one side, it draws the other side upward, so you can tighten them all you want and they'll never get tight. It just doesn't work like that.
If the 2 towers are plumb but the cables are a little off or exactly in sync but the 2-column base plates are at different heights (1/8"-3/4" off), does this create a problem? Looks like Benpack wants both pads to be at the same height at the top of their travel vs towers plumb. But if you set the columns so they are level at the top stop, that does not mean it is level at every stop. Thanks for any advice.
I recently purchased a nearly new 2 post floor plate lift and paid extra to have it set up by the seller who " seemed " to know lifts inside and out since he has every style imaginable in his shop which HE has installed . He delivered the lift and installed and anchored and leveled it but for some reason the carriages ( arms ) only drop down to about 8 inches off the floor and one side cables are taught and the other side loose as a goose and he left me hanging like that . Should I start from scratch and remove the cables and start all over again since he's not returning my calls? Thanks
Your cables are terribly adjusted. Loosen them as far as they'll go and start over. A phone call to Avijit at Titan Lifts at 888-908-4826 will help a lot. That guy is a wealth of info and always happy to help.
@@mosehousesix7614 There's more pressure on the rams. If the car weighs 2,000 lbs on the left and 3,000 lbs on the right, then there's 1,000 lbs of tension on the cables to overcome the difference.
I have a assymetrical 2 post lift with clear floor design cables. When there is a load on the lift, the carriages will jump when I push the motor switch on. This causes the vehicle to bounce while raising for a few (scary) seconds until it smooths out. Ive adjusted the cables and bled the rams. The vehicle lowers smoothly with no issues. The lift raises smoothly with no load. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I sent your question to Avijit at Titan Lifts and was told: Here are a couple things that could cause this type of issue: The columns might not be plumb. The anchors might not be torqued properly, causing the columns to bind when raising weight. The insides of the columns may not be greased properly causing excessive friction. The fluid in the lift may not be what the manufacturer recommends. There is also one strange instance that I’ve seen where the customer setup the lift too wide and then just used the overhead bar bolts to draw the columns together. This caused the column to bow inward and caused a bouncing action when it was raising a vehicle. Another weird part about this, if someone stood on the carriage with the car on the lift and raised it, the bouncing stopped. These are the first things I would check before diving in deeper.
Very good informative video. No one else shows how to install the cables correctly. I have now been able to complete the instalation of my 2 post hoist, thanks.
Great video. Just bought a lift and trying to learn as much as I can about using it. This video was to the point and very informative. Thanks.
There aren't very many videos on two post car lifts, yet they are really gaining popularity among the average home garage. Thank you Ian for the informative video. Awesome job.
Finally found a video explains cable function
Great job Ian, I bought a 2 post from you 11 years ago
Walter
Thanks for the business!
Where can I get hydraulic tank filter
I like the idea of making both locks a little bit out of adjustment for confirming
Yep. This also means making sure anyone who uses the lift knows about this. If the next guys walks up to it to use it and he's unaware of how you purposefully have the lift set up, then perhaps he's less safe without knowing to listen for both locks. The user is only safer if he knows about it.
I have a two post weaver that was made in 1972. It uses chains instead of cables, I’ve had it for almost four years and just recently had to adjust the sync between the two actuators. I’ve looked at new lifts and compared to what I have, they’re not even in the same league. The steel plates on my lift are over an inch thick compared to the 3/8 to 1/2 inch most lifts now days are made from. Funny thing is the actuators are rated at 7000lbs but the towers and lift arms and housing could easily handle twice that amount.
I don't know if Mohawk is the only company that makes 2 post lifts that use purely hydraulic synchronization, but I know that my lift has no wire ropes and pulleys, no plastic slide blocks, and no rubber hydraulic lines. All of those things wear and need replaced every few years. I'm just a home shop guy now, and a Mohawk lift might be overkill, but it's rock solid and essentially maintenance free, and (unless I buy a second one), it will be the last two post lift I ever buy.
I learned allot and have been thinking of put one in
Good video. I am about to adjust my lift, this helps a lot!
Thank you for the information.
Thank you. I think you just solved my problem.
Super helpful. Thank you.
great video and good explanation, Well done
Good video thanks!
Thanks. Glad to hear it was helpful!
Thanks for your video.
Great info in here!
Thanks for the info
Here after Rainman Ray's lift cable snap video
Was just checking that out. Glad to see the safety locks did their job and saved the day.
Thank you
I just found your channel and this video. Lots of good useful info here. I have a question about adjusting the cables. My lift is a direct drive 10,000 lb over head unit. The issue I have is not being able to adjust the cables to get much tension on them. I followed the manufacturers instruction, raising the carriages about 3 feet and not resting them on the locks (with no vehicle on the lift). I am out of threads for adjustment and the cables are still loose. One is a little tighter than the other but I can still pull them together so they touch without much effort. When I lower a vehicle one side always starts down before the other. I've had the lift a couple of years and it works fine other than this. Any thoughts? Thanks
Right. The cables are supposed to be taught, not tight. All they do is keep the carriages level. I recommend loosening them off and starting over. Concentrate on getting them level from side to side, and not tight. As you tighten the cable on one side, it draws the other side upward, so you can tighten them all you want and they'll never get tight. It just doesn't work like that.
Great video
If the 2 towers are plumb but the cables are a little off or exactly in sync but the 2-column base plates are at different heights (1/8"-3/4" off), does this create a problem? Looks like Benpack wants both pads to be at the same height at the top of their travel vs towers plumb. But if you set the columns so they are level at the top stop, that does not mean it is level at every stop. Thanks for any advice.
Yes you can by a Mohawk lift brand!
on a floor plat lift should the cable touch the ground in the middle or tight enough not to drag across the concrete
In my experiences, they'll drag. These cables are not intended to be tight light a guitar string.
I recently purchased a nearly new 2 post floor plate lift and paid extra to have it set up by the seller who " seemed " to know lifts inside and out since he has every style imaginable in his shop which HE has installed . He delivered the lift and installed and anchored and leveled it but for some reason the carriages ( arms ) only drop down to about 8 inches off the floor and one side cables are taught and the other side loose as a goose and he left me hanging like that . Should I start from scratch and remove the cables and start all over again since he's not returning my calls? Thanks
Your cables are terribly adjusted. Loosen them as far as they'll go and start over. A phone call to Avijit at Titan Lifts at 888-908-4826 will help a lot. That guy is a wealth of info and always happy to help.
My safty latches doesn't release after pulling cables
Thanks...
Go bendpak!
Hi so would you be able to lift a car if both sides were even in weight without cables and just the rams?
In theory? Yes. Is the world perfect enough that you could ever actually do that? Not a chance.
@@RedlineStands ok thank you also one more question, is there a lot of pressure on the cables or would you say there is more pressure on the rams.
I’m only asking because I only have one nut on each ends of my cables and not two
@@mosehousesix7614 You should fix that immediately
@@mosehousesix7614 There's more pressure on the rams. If the car weighs 2,000 lbs on the left and 3,000 lbs on the right, then there's 1,000 lbs of tension on the cables to overcome the difference.
Main information missing what size drill to drill concrete and size of studs
You'll need to consult your manual, becuase not all of them use the same size anchors. You "generally" see 3/4" and 7/8"
Please explain 4 poist cable
I have a assymetrical 2 post lift with clear floor design cables. When there is a load on the lift, the carriages will jump when I push the motor switch on. This causes the vehicle to bounce while raising for a few (scary) seconds until it smooths out. Ive adjusted the cables and bled the rams. The vehicle lowers smoothly with no issues. The lift raises smoothly with no load. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I sent your question to Avijit at Titan Lifts and was told:
Here are a couple things that could cause this type of issue:
The columns might not be plumb.
The anchors might not be torqued properly, causing the columns to bind when raising weight.
The insides of the columns may not be greased properly causing excessive friction.
The fluid in the lift may not be what the manufacturer recommends.
There is also one strange instance that I’ve seen where the customer setup the lift too wide and then just used the overhead bar bolts to draw the columns together. This caused the column to bow inward and caused a bouncing action when it was raising a vehicle. Another weird part about this, if someone stood on the carriage with the car on the lift and raised it, the bouncing stopped.
These are the first things I would check before diving in deeper.
@@RedlineStands Thank you so much for the info! Subscription added.
The cables are called equalizer cables not equilibrium cables. The cables equalize the load from left to right.
Same thing!