Solid content here. You may have just saved some one's life and there car. Keep up the good work love the videos and you demeanor. Honest hard working mechanic.
You're a natural teacher. I like how you considered the questions that might come up, like the difference between a framed and unibody vehicle and addressed both. The caution about the cars with high-tech suspensions was a brilliant bonus. This video should be required viewing for every apprentice or home mechanic.
I think these last two videos are some of the best you've done. I've had a Ranger (Bendpak) Quickjack for several years that I've asked them repeatedly how to lift a truck with it with the frame being unlevel. This is the first answer I've seen on the Internet! Thanks!!!
My knees hurt a bit watching the crawling parts, but in the long run, these are knee savers. it's good to be very through with these lifts. I worked in a shop where another mechanic actually had a car fall. Luckily no one was hurt, but the car was totaled. These are very powerful tools that require a lot of care to use. Thanks for spreading the proper use of these.
I work for SEARS Automotive in 1987 early to mid 90s man has car change ! looking to go back into the field and need to Refresh thanks !! Cars have got easy in diagnostic point they give you a starting point with the right Tools
I criticize you sometimes in the comments when I think your wrong, disagree with things you say but here this is a great tutorial on using the lifts it is detailed enough that anyone after watching this should be able to use a lift properly and after watching this anyone that then does it incorrectly has no one to blame but themselves.
This video is exactly what I wanted. Super informative and straightforward without skipping over any pertinent details. Thank you so much and keep up the great work!
In the old days with a center lift we used to use a steel "stick" to reach under and move the arms around in or out or wherever, the end of the arms had a steel pad which you could flip up as I recall and I think there may have been round holes in the arms which you could hook with the steel bar to move them around. By using the bar it was easier to move the arms and set the car up. Those kinds of lifts had a "stopper" kind of a metal plate with a bump on either side so when the car was pulled in that usually set it up in the middle, for most cars. There was an alleged safety poll that was next to the hydraulic giant sized poll/pipe, however I never recall locking or unlocking that thing, I think it had a piece of metal at the base you were supposed to kick to lock an unlock. The lifts never failed but would get slow leaks, I think the fluid was all in steel pipes. It was all powered by a central compressor that provided power to the hydraulics in the lifts and for air tools and the bell that was attached to the yard hose which customers drove over and caused the bell to ring. We had a drive on lift too with flaps at the end that would rise to prevent roll off once you raised the vehicle. By the time I worked there the flaps would rise but never lock as they got rusted out, so you would have to block the wheels. We cleaned the bays with gasoline and water and push broom sized scrub brush and rinsed with water pushing it all out of the bay door with a big squeegee for difficult cleaning we used battery acid on it. The gas cut the grease and the acid cut anything. we always made sure to turn off the oil furnace so it would not kick on. That's how they did it for probably 30 years before I got there and all the way until they closed maybe 10 or so years later. We lived to tell the tale!
Thank you so much! This was such a simple and easy tutorial on how car hydraulic lifts work. I'm currently taking my first physics class and am studying fluids and pressure and all that right now. One of the example problems was about a car being held up by hydraulics and I could not clearly imagine in my head how that looks like like a car in the shop, but this video solved that!
@@brianlego98gaming Relax. That thing is a time machine/clickbait. Help Hoovie & The Wiz get past a million or so sub so they can upload more content. I'm dying here with this covid fear
Way to go, Wizzard. Thanks for the lesson. I haven't used a lift since my days in high school working part-time at the local Gulf gas staion. Those lifts came out of the concrete floor of the garage. Your new ones look great.
@@reallyhappenings5597 Depends on the make, model, type, and lift(weight) limit. They can be anywhere from $2K to $10K, and higher for commercial grade. The cost though, is in the concrete work. One should have at minimum 6" concrete pad and depending on how you want to re-enforce the pad with rebar, this all adds up. My last house, 3 years ago, was roughly $4K for the pad(prices vary depending on location) and $2K for the left. There was also a $500 pick up, delivery and set-up to a third party installer, which I thought was pretty reasonable. Having to move the lift to the new house was an additional cost as well as storing while waiting to close. I almost went with a Maxjax but decided the higher weight limit was worth the height and extra costs. I hear you on the olling around on the concrete. Having things overhead makes underbody work so much easier and faster!
@@reallyhappenings5597 Every time I watch Scotty get under a car, I can't believe he never got a proper lift. What self-respecting professional mechanic works like that?!
Great video Wizard! May want to mention the need to grab the subframe areas on some unibodies like the 3rd gen F-Body. Pinch welds like to fold over on these, for example. On these if you fold over the pinch weld, you will some some difficulty ever unbolting the fenders. Thank you for keeping all of us entertained!
I always wondered about those safety latches. It's good to know that the car isn't resting on hydraulic pressure when it's being worked on. Safety first!
I am lucky enough to have a 2 post asymmetrical 10k lift in my personal shop and I can tell you 20yrs of working on my back it was money well spent! It was a worth while investment for me!
You have a great skill at instruction Car Wizard. Your ability to clearly explain and demonstrate is what makes your channel so successful. Plus your speech tempo is perfect.
My cousin isn't far from you and also has 2 Cadillac Allantes they are pretty cool cars. He was able to put a 4 post lift in his 3 car garage to park one underneath the other. One day i'll have a little shop where I can put a 2 post lift so I won't have to work on my back in the driveway. Love your work!
Very informative. Some lift have safety locks that doesn't engage at the same time ( like the first lift on your video ). So before removing the weight on the hydraulic, one must ensure that 2 safety locks are engaged or the car may end up tilted and may cause an accident.
When the lift is set up properly, they should click at the same time. Both pillars should be mounted at the exact same height, both arms at the exact same height, etc. With time, cables can stretch, etc and get the arms slightly uneven. When everything is straight and even, the latches should click at the same time. But yes... When both sides are slightly off, you've got to wait for both to engage.
Buying a 2-post Lift was the best automotive tool I've ever purchased! Wife was hesitant to purchase, the cost wasn't in the lift but the concrete pad, but I've used it so many times to work on our own, and her parents car that she's come around and thinks it was a fantastic purchase. May want to get the first lift serviced though, the "clacks" of the stops were a little out of sync while the truck was being lifted. Could tell the passenger side was off compared to the driver's side by how the passenger side settled, before the driver's side, when you lowered it onto the security stops.
I'm 77, got a 9000lb lift in my home shop about 25 years ago. One of those things that I instantly realized I should have had 20 years earlier. I'm always amazed to see you moving cars by hand. Doesn't work in my shop which has the floor very slightly sloped for drainage. One thing that's not always emphasized is that a 10,000lb lift for example also means that each arm has a maximum rating of 2500lbs. So, you need to know the center of gravity of the vehicle and balance it both to not over balance the lift posts, and also to not overload the individual arms. I happen to own a truck scale at one of my businesses so I can weigh vehicles and know the center of gravity before I try to lift them. If you don't know how to lift a unibody you really need to look at the shop manual to find the correct lift points so that you don't bend it in the wrong place..
When I was in HS back in 1967, I was working an an Esso station. Across the street was a Texaco where the mechanic was lifting a Toronado to change the oil. I was taking care of a customer and heard a horrendous crash coming from the Texaco. I looked and saw the Toronado with its nose planted on the floor and the ass end still on the raised lift. The mechanic didn’t realize the nose heaviness of that car and lost it. I’ll never forget that day.
Thank you 🙏🏼 Needed this. In the market. Was going to look at a used 9k western to save $500, but might go with a used 10k bendpak for $3,000 (removed and installed). Came here for learning lift points and using the safety locks. Great video and needed to know about Audi/VW suspension too. 👍🏼 👍🏼
Thanks for sharing this. I can't tell you how scary this quarantine business has been, and it's such a major morale booster to have you share content like this.
Putting the vehicle on the safety locks is something most technicians sadly don’t do until their doing a big job and don’t put it on the safety’s over night. Then they come in the next morning and wonder how the vehicle has now fallen off the lift and crushed their box. Then they’ll blame the lift even though it was user error. Gotta love it when the longest part of the job is literally lifting the car lmao
In europe two-post lift usually have electromagnetic safety release and solenoid valve to release pressure. In that lifts control box have 3 buttons: 1. lifting 2. lowering without releasing safety latches and 3. lowering to ground with safety latches released. Some control boxes even don't require using lifting from safety before lowering, while holding lowering to ground button automatically pump will energize for 2 second for lift from safety latches, next electromagnetic safety latches will be released and solenoid-valve will release fluid from hydraulic cylinders in posts.
100 years ago we had 2 post lifts in school. All in floor hydrolic. Kid put one of those monster 70s Pontiac station wagons up without shaking it to make sure it was stable. When the lift topped out it shook , the car moved. It cracked the lift cylinder in the floor releasing the smoo. Car was secured with tall Jack stands and stayed there for months. We came in one day car was gone, they started to Jack hammer up the floor to replace the lift.
This is way more interesting now that I'm confined to home than it might have been even a week ago! Thanks for great content I didn't even know I needed.
Thank you for this tutorial! Very helpful! I need to check my Bendpak when I get home for lifting pads for the Toyota Prius. I have a 2004 Toyota Prius and the jack area is grooved not flat.
Have a Twin Busch mid-raise scissor lift in my shop. Getting ready to get a 6ft. Scissor lift, 4-post or 2-post lift for my garage that is almost ready to start working out of. Kinda worried about the 2-post lifts because of all the fails that's on RUclips but for working on my Foxbody Mustangs I feel the 2-post would be much better for welding and floor replacements and other things as well. You video helped answer a couple questions I had and wondered about. Guess it's about like everything else, just have some common sense and thing about what your doing and keep it balanced and leveled well before you start lifting. Thank You Sir for a pretty good video. And if I get one I'm going to do some research and study more about the Bendpak lifts.
I'm a little disappointed you didn't talk about the arm locks. They are an important part of safety also. I've had a leg kick out and drop a truck until it smashed the underside. I had to pay 1000$ out of my paycheck as a deductible for the shop I worked in Love the channel
I have use of one for doing an oil change . But , my vehicle is a 2020 Toyota Camry with pinch welds . The lifting pads are 6 inch in diameter . And though last time I was able to line them up and not damage the underneath of my vehicle . I came across an idea to use a hockey puck to center it in the middle of all pads . Being much easier to line up the pads . Especially since the hockey puck would fit the length of the pinch weld . And being raised would prevent any contact with anything else . Though there are rectangular lifting pads , this place does not have them available . And out rageous price to buy them myself . I made sure to get orange colored hockey pucks .
helpful video. I was remembering back in minnesota trying to put a rusted renault dulphene on the lift and having the lift pads go rite through the car.
If you press the safety latch while raising you don't need to hurt your ears from the clicking noise. Also a foam pad for your knees when placing the arms is so nice.
Nice informative video. Vehicle should rest on the safety locks but there should only be one click as it lifts. There shouldn’t be a double click as it raises. You should adjust the cables until you hear one audible click. Great job. Keep up the great work.
Get yourself some square lift arm adapters along with your round ones you have. Square for trucks/vans round for cars and other unibody vehicles. The square ones have a lip on each side so the vehicle can't slide or slip
Great video. Sounds like the first lift need some minor adjustments doing to it, because when it was being raised, the safeties were not clicking exactly at the same time meaning one side of the lift is slightly lower than the other. Hence you get the double clunk clunk as it goes up. Compare it to the second lift which is perfect. Just get Bendpak to come back out to sort it.
I think it was the same lift used in both clips generally when lifting heavier cars the equalizing cables will stretch unevenly and latches wont engage at same time. Just then nature of that style of lift.
Solid content here. You may have just saved some one's life and there car. Keep up the good work love the videos and you demeanor. Honest hard working mechanic.
Boy I'm glad to have all my RUclips channels! You all are making this crazy time much more enjoyable! Thank you!
This was an uplifting video!💪
Booooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
groan!
Blah!
@@rjb6327 I bet you couldn't make a better joke
Comedy
"Very thick, it used to be a factory" Such a humble description when many would be bragging nonstop. Gotta respect this guy
You're a natural teacher. I like how you considered the questions that might come up, like the difference between a framed and unibody vehicle and addressed both. The caution about the cars with high-tech suspensions was a brilliant bonus. This video should be required viewing for every apprentice or home mechanic.
I followed the instructions and was extremely cautious. This is the most accurate description of how to operate safely. Thank you!
Thanks Wizard for helping to keep us safe and entertained.
I think these last two videos are some of the best you've done. I've had a Ranger (Bendpak) Quickjack for several years that I've asked them repeatedly how to lift a truck with it with the frame being unlevel. This is the first answer I've seen on the Internet! Thanks!!!
Stay safe and healthy Wizard!
Thank you Wizard for listening to your subscribers! Keep doing what you are doing!
You are a great teacher, David. The lift company could use this in their training program, IMO.
My knees hurt a bit watching the crawling parts, but in the long run, these are knee savers. it's good to be very through with these lifts. I worked in a shop where another mechanic actually had a car fall. Luckily no one was hurt, but the car was totaled. These are very powerful tools that require a lot of care to use. Thanks for spreading the proper use of these.
Elliott's channel is really awesome! He's so funny, most everyone is going to love his sense of humor.
Excellent video! Very clear directions on how to properly use a 2 post lift! Thanks👍🏻
I work for SEARS Automotive in 1987 early to mid 90s man has car change ! looking to go back into the field and need to Refresh thanks !! Cars have got easy in diagnostic point they give you a starting point with the right Tools
I criticize you sometimes in the comments when I think your wrong, disagree with things you say but here this is a great tutorial on using the lifts it is detailed enough that anyone after watching this should be able to use a lift properly and after watching this anyone that then does it incorrectly has no one to blame but themselves.
When I was in my mid 20's, I spent a month assisting a friend installing automotive lifts. It's a hell of a process.
Thank you for providing entertainment during these times!
This video is exactly what I wanted. Super informative and straightforward without skipping over any pertinent details. Thank you so much and keep up the great work!
Thanks for doing this. I'm looking at a house with a lift in the garage and I didn't want to admit to anyone that I didn't know how to use it.
In the old days with a center lift we used to use a steel "stick" to reach under and move the arms around in or out or wherever, the end of the arms had a steel pad which you could flip up as I recall and I think there may have been round holes in the arms which you could hook with the steel bar to move them around. By using the bar it was easier to move the arms and set the car up. Those kinds of lifts had a "stopper" kind of a metal plate with a bump on either side so when the car was pulled in that usually set it up in the middle, for most cars. There was an alleged safety poll that was next to the hydraulic giant sized poll/pipe, however I never recall locking or unlocking that thing, I think it had a piece of metal at the base you were supposed to kick to lock an unlock. The lifts never failed but would get slow leaks, I think the fluid was all in steel pipes. It was all powered by a central compressor that provided power to the hydraulics in the lifts and for air tools and the bell that was attached to the yard hose which customers drove over and caused the bell to ring. We had a drive on lift too with flaps at the end that would rise to prevent roll off once you raised the vehicle. By the time I worked there the flaps would rise but never lock as they got rusted out, so you would have to block the wheels. We cleaned the bays with gasoline and water and push broom sized scrub brush and rinsed with water pushing it all out of the bay door with a big squeegee for difficult cleaning we used battery acid on it. The gas cut the grease and the acid cut anything. we always made sure to turn off the oil furnace so it would not kick on. That's how they did it for probably 30 years before I got there and all the way until they closed maybe 10 or so years later. We lived to tell the tale!
Thank you so much! This was such a simple and easy tutorial on how car hydraulic lifts work. I'm currently taking my first physics class and am studying fluids and pressure and all that right now. One of the example problems was about a car being held up by hydraulics and I could not clearly imagine in my head how that looks like like a car in the shop, but this video solved that!
That red Camaro almost looks exactly like the one Hoovie passed on a trailer at the salvage yard. Hmmm...
apparently he traded his abarth for it.
haha it is it is the camaro .....
Same car from Car Wizard's Buy this not that Chevrolet video
@@brianlego98gaming Relax. That thing is a time machine/clickbait. Help Hoovie & The Wiz get past a million or so sub so they can upload more content. I'm dying here with this covid fear
Way to go, Wizzard. Thanks for the lesson. I haven't used a lift since my days in high school working part-time at the local Gulf gas staion. Those lifts came out of the concrete floor of the garage. Your new ones look great.
I have that exact lift in my home shop. Love it to death. Saves this old man's life much easier.
What did it cost you? Even at age 40, I know there's no way I'm going to be rolling around on concrete in future years.
@@reallyhappenings5597 Depends on the make, model, type, and lift(weight) limit. They can be anywhere from $2K to $10K, and higher for commercial grade.
The cost though, is in the concrete work. One should have at minimum 6" concrete pad and depending on how you want to re-enforce the pad with rebar, this all adds up. My last house, 3 years ago, was roughly $4K for the pad(prices vary depending on location) and $2K for the left. There was also a $500 pick up, delivery and set-up to a third party installer, which I thought was pretty reasonable. Having to move the lift to the new house was an additional cost as well as storing while waiting to close.
I almost went with a Maxjax but decided the higher weight limit was worth the height and extra costs. I hear you on the olling around on the concrete. Having things overhead makes underbody work so much easier and faster!
@@reallyhappenings5597 Every time I watch Scotty get under a car, I can't believe he never got a proper lift. What self-respecting professional mechanic works like that?!
Chuck Just be careful and make sure it's not literally "to death.":)
@@paulparoma I like Scotty but he's a big time cheap skate, he's not getting any younger either, it's too late for him to get one now.
Great video Wizard! May want to mention the need to grab the subframe areas on some unibodies like the 3rd gen F-Body. Pinch welds like to fold over on these, for example. On these if you fold over the pinch weld, you will some some difficulty ever unbolting the fenders. Thank you for keeping all of us entertained!
I always wondered about those safety latches. It's good to know that the car isn't resting on hydraulic pressure when it's being worked on. Safety first!
Thanks Mr and Mrs Wizard. Crazy times we live in, glad to have your channel.
Just started working in a shop, very useful information! Just doubling down on what I’m being taught at the shop!
Thanks for the increased posting of videos as many people will need things to keep their minds off the current problems.
Wizard, you and Mrs. Wizard are the best thing going these days. Thanks for keeping it rolling :)
I'm not a mechanic... at all... this is one of the most interesting channel's on YT. I picked the wrong career field. Thanks Wizard!
I am lucky enough to have a 2 post asymmetrical 10k lift in my personal shop and I can tell you 20yrs of working on my back it was money well spent! It was a worth while investment for me!
Thanks for pumping out extra content during the quarantine.
Thank you total novice here but not attached to a garage as part of my job and this helps so much
You have a great skill at instruction Car Wizard. Your ability to clearly explain and demonstrate is what makes your channel so successful. Plus your speech tempo is perfect.
Thanks Wizards. Out here in the PNW. It's a relief to have a calm, orderly personality to help through these trying times. Keep it up.
My cousin isn't far from you and also has 2 Cadillac Allantes they are pretty cool cars. He was able to put a 4 post lift in his 3 car garage to park one underneath the other. One day i'll have a little shop where I can put a 2 post lift so I won't have to work on my back in the driveway. Love your work!
Very informative. Some lift have safety locks that doesn't engage at the same time ( like the first lift on your video ). So before removing the weight on the hydraulic, one must ensure that 2 safety locks are engaged or the car may end up tilted and may cause an accident.
When the lift is set up properly, they should click at the same time. Both pillars should be mounted at the exact same height, both arms at the exact same height, etc. With time, cables can stretch, etc and get the arms slightly uneven. When everything is straight and even, the latches should click at the same time. But yes... When both sides are slightly off, you've got to wait for both to engage.
I use a lift everyday at work but I love to support my favorite youtubers
thank you!! .. more garage videos please .. tools, business, interesting stories .. etc
Buying a 2-post Lift was the best automotive tool I've ever purchased! Wife was hesitant to purchase, the cost wasn't in the lift but the concrete pad, but I've used it so many times to work on our own, and her parents car that she's come around and thinks it was a fantastic purchase.
May want to get the first lift serviced though, the "clacks" of the stops were a little out of sync while the truck was being lifted. Could tell the passenger side was off compared to the driver's side by how the passenger side settled, before the driver's side, when you lowered it onto the security stops.
I love this guy. Very pleasing to the ears, zero bullshit, great videos, thanks Wizzard.
I'm 77, got a 9000lb lift in my home shop about 25 years ago. One of those things that I instantly realized I should have had 20 years earlier. I'm always amazed to see you moving cars by hand. Doesn't work in my shop which has the floor very slightly sloped for drainage. One thing that's not always emphasized is that a 10,000lb lift for example also means that each arm has a maximum rating of 2500lbs. So, you need to know the center of gravity of the vehicle and balance it both to not over balance the lift posts, and also to not overload the individual arms. I happen to own a truck scale at one of my businesses so I can weigh vehicles and know the center of gravity before I try to lift them. If you don't know how to lift a unibody you really need to look at the shop manual to find the correct lift points so that you don't bend it in the wrong place..
Extra videos!? Hell yeah!
Thank you David for the tips. I'm a first year apprentice starting my journey into the automotive field.
I get to use one of these in class Monday for the first time.. glad I watched this video, it kind of will give me an advantage. Thank you!
When I was in HS back in 1967, I was working an an Esso station. Across the street was a Texaco where the mechanic was lifting a Toronado to change the oil. I was taking care of a customer and heard a horrendous crash coming from the Texaco. I looked and saw the Toronado with its nose planted on the floor and the ass end still on the raised lift. The mechanic didn’t realize the nose heaviness of that car and lost it. I’ll never forget that day.
Wizard, have you ever had a car fall off a lift or the lift pad punch through a rusty chassis rail when lifting? Great videos btw.
2 year old video but you still helped me out. GJ and you explain things so well. Thank you and keep it up.
Officially in lockdown out here in Los Angeles so I’m watching every video you have uploaded
Thank you 🙏🏼 Needed this. In the market. Was going to look at a used 9k western to save $500, but might go with a used 10k bendpak for $3,000 (removed and installed). Came here for learning lift points and using the safety locks. Great video and needed to know about Audi/VW suspension too. 👍🏼 👍🏼
Any updates on the Rolls powered Chevy truck?
Thanks for sharing this. I can't tell you how scary this quarantine business has been, and it's such a major morale booster to have you share content like this.
im glad you you said vw audi product its never been a bentley never will be, iv'e worked on rolls and bentleys for 45 years .
Putting the vehicle on the safety locks is something most technicians sadly don’t do until their doing a big job and don’t put it on the safety’s over night. Then they come in the next morning and wonder how the vehicle has now fallen off the lift and crushed their box. Then they’ll blame the lift even though it was user error. Gotta love it when the longest part of the job is literally lifting the car lmao
First YTer I've seen that mentioned giving us more entertaining content during these crazy times. Thanks Weezard!!!!
True class in helping out a friends channel Wizard!
First person on You Tube I have ever seen properly push a vehicle by the tires. You actually get a bit of mechanical advantage by doing that.
In europe two-post lift usually have electromagnetic safety release and solenoid valve to release pressure. In that lifts control box have 3 buttons: 1. lifting 2. lowering without releasing safety latches and 3. lowering to ground with safety latches released. Some control boxes even don't require using lifting from safety before lowering, while holding lowering to ground button automatically pump will energize for 2 second for lift from safety latches, next electromagnetic safety latches will be released and solenoid-valve will release fluid from hydraulic cylinders in posts.
I couldn't adore the Wizard any more than I do. I'm thinking about moving to Kansas so the Wizard can be my mechanic.
Thank you so much for helping me get through three weeks of lockdown to avoid getting the Carona Virus!
Merci depuis la France de nous occuper pendant le confinement! :)
I am about to buy a hoist and this video is an awesome quick tutorial. Very much appreciated and thankyou so much for taking the time to show us!
100 years ago we had 2 post lifts in school. All in floor hydrolic. Kid put one of those monster 70s Pontiac station wagons up without shaking it to make sure it was stable. When the lift topped out it shook , the car moved. It cracked the lift cylinder in the floor releasing the smoo. Car was secured with tall Jack stands and stayed there for months. We came in one day car was gone, they started to Jack hammer up the floor to replace the lift.
I’ve had a 2post lift for 20 years. One of the very best investments I have ever made.
I like how you used the 2:1 mechanical advantage of pushing the top of the tire to move the truck back.
This is way more interesting now that I'm confined to home than it might have been even a week ago! Thanks for great content I didn't even know I needed.
these videos DO make a difference. Thanks wizard.
Im only going to say this once your the bob ross of cars and you make everything simple and easy keep it up
Thank you for this tutorial! Very helpful!
I need to check my Bendpak when I get home for lifting pads for the Toyota Prius. I have a 2004 Toyota Prius and the jack area is grooved not flat.
I use my left a few times this my first lift n I watched you a few times today for the 1st time n thanks. 👍🏽
That's awesome you gave us so many safety points i always use safety glasses when i am under a car on a lift. Great video
Thanks for giving us the proper procedure on how to properly use a lift.
yes we are, greeting from Belgium
Belgium?! Sorry to hear that.
Greetings from France too !
Greetings from Tennessee
Hi, good demonstration, there is more to using a lift, than I thought, but very handy to have, and a must for a car repair shop! thx again, Clay Cook
Thank you mr and mrs wizard. Very informative I never gave it a thought
About how much is involved in lifting a truck or car safely
Wizard, you are the best, wish I could bring my car to you.
This is great content! There are not that many people out there that know how to operate a lift and operate it safely. Good job! 😁👍
Have a Twin Busch mid-raise scissor lift in my shop. Getting ready to get a 6ft. Scissor lift, 4-post or 2-post lift for my garage that is almost ready to start working out of.
Kinda worried about the 2-post lifts because of all the fails that's on RUclips but for working on my Foxbody Mustangs I feel the 2-post would be much better for welding and floor replacements and other things as well.
You video helped answer a couple questions I had and wondered about. Guess it's about like everything else, just have some common sense and thing about what your doing and keep it balanced and leveled well before you start lifting.
Thank You Sir for a pretty good video. And if I get one I'm going to do some research and study more about the Bendpak lifts.
I'm a little disappointed you didn't talk about the arm locks. They are an important part of safety also. I've had a leg kick out and drop a truck until it smashed the underside. I had to pay 1000$ out of my paycheck as a deductible for the shop I worked in
Love the channel
Pushing the top of tire is very clever. Only half the force is needed compared to pushing on the body. Very well done.
Thanks again, 'cause it's lockdown time here in Belgium....
amazing tutorial and extra tidbits of knowledge, just like a wizard
I have use of one for doing an oil change . But , my vehicle is a 2020 Toyota Camry with pinch welds . The lifting pads are 6 inch in diameter . And though last time I was able to line them up and not damage the underneath of my vehicle . I came across an idea to use a hockey puck to center it in the middle of all pads . Being much easier to line up the pads . Especially since the hockey puck would fit the length of the pinch weld . And being raised would prevent any contact with anything else . Though there are rectangular lifting pads , this place does not have them available . And out rageous price to buy them myself . I made sure to get orange colored hockey pucks .
helpful video. I was remembering back in minnesota trying to put a rusted renault dulphene on the lift and having the lift pads go rite through the car.
Thank you for adding time to your day to inform and entertain us.
My new 2 post lift just got connected to power. Great video!
A bit less intuitive in my BMW as it puts itself in park as soon as I open the door IF the engine is off.
Marcus Nibell Ive lifted these engine running in neutral. Once lift is set up, put in park and turn everything off
If you press the safety latch while raising you don't need to hurt your ears from the clicking noise. Also a foam pad for your knees when placing the arms is so nice.
Nice informative video. Vehicle should rest on the safety locks but there should only be one click as it lifts. There shouldn’t be a double click as it raises. You should adjust the cables until you hear one audible click.
Great job. Keep up the great work.
This is actually really good. You could make more videos like this and sell them to schools.
Thanks for the vid Wiz, as an Auto Tech student this was perfect to prep!
Do a video on short-term and long-term fuel trims and what causes them to be high and low love the channel thanks wizard.
Thanks for the lift overview. Appreciate you providing content.
Get yourself some square lift arm adapters along with your round ones you have. Square for trucks/vans round for cars and other unibody vehicles. The square ones have a lip on each side so the vehicle can't slide or slip
Watching the lifts slowly go up reminded me of the Mass Effect loading screens.
I never thought about vehicles with active suspension control. Great vid.
I really like this guy . Very knowledgeable, And informative. If you like cars , this is always interesting .
Great video. Sounds like the first lift need some minor adjustments doing to it, because when it was being raised, the safeties were not clicking exactly at the same time meaning one side of the lift is slightly lower than the other. Hence you get the double clunk clunk as it goes up. Compare it to the second lift which is perfect. Just get Bendpak to come back out to sort it.
I think it was the same lift used in both clips generally when lifting heavier cars the equalizing cables will stretch unevenly and latches wont engage at same time. Just then nature of that style of lift.