Just had this happen after 4 years non commercial use and had to adjust the cables. Having a 10k lift doesn’t mean you don’t do proper maintenance. Thanks for the great information and remember to make sure the cable feeds through is or are not twisted which could loosen the nuts.
My lift hydraulics tank and motor looks the same as yours, I just installed, I see some units where guys bleed the cylinders but I do not see any bleeder screws on my Cylinders. There was a relief valve listed by the control unit. Not sure? any thoughts?
For my unit the bleed procedure was to run it up and down multiple times. Straight from my manual.... "Place a vehicle on the lift and raise until swivel pads are in contact with the frame of the car. Raise the vehicle up about 3 more feet and lower until the tires touch the floor. Keep raising and lowering the vehicle, increasing the height each time, until the vehicle is completely to the top. This procedure pumps all the air from the system. Now the lift is ready for use." Hope this helps. Mine had air in it that was mostly pumped out when I lifted to synchronize the carriages. I also ran it to the top a few times without a car just in case.
That’s a good question. My instructions don’t mention lubing the cables. I wouldn’t like the smell either of gear oil in the air. If I lube mine I’ll use a dry lube.
To be more transparent, the one side will lower a specific and consistent amount but then remain that distance ahead of the other the remainder of the descent. Could you elaborate what the potential restriction could be?
@@Justin131993 First let's make sure the carriages are even going up. That should eliminate the balance cables as the problem. Then I'd double-check check the carriage sliders aren't binding on the pressure release. After that, a hydraulic restriction would be the last path. A tight bend, kink, or line failure could cause one side to "pause" overcoming the restriction and then lowering it. Is this an old lift, has the fluid in the system been changed? Also, I'm just a dude in his garage too, not a lift tech. But happy to try and help.
@@danconlan8735 This lift had minimum specs for the concrete for PSI rating and thickness. It will vary with each brand but 3000PSI and 4" min is a good start. The only prep work I had to do was to locate my tension cables via an X-ray of the floor.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds are the tension cables put in by the builder when the floor was poured? I am considering a lift more for storage of a car but I figured I would have to reinforce the floor or replace it with some kind of beefed up concrete! Thanks, DC
@@danconlan8735 My house has "post tension" cables built into the slab (by the builder) rather than rebar. The cables in my slab are under 10's of thousands of pounds of tension. For storage of a car a 4 post is a great style, plus the load is distributed so the concrete doesn't need to be as robust as with a 2 post.
Just had this happen after 4 years non commercial use and had to adjust the cables. Having a 10k lift doesn’t mean you don’t do proper maintenance. Thanks for the great information and remember to make sure the cable feeds through is or are not twisted which could loosen the nuts.
Thanks for the info. I’ll have to watch my cables for twist!
Perfect! Thank you for the great, clear instructions and presentation.
You're very welcome!
Thanks for you use of knowledge I appreciate it. Have a BLESSED day.
You are so welcome
You saved my weekend! Thank you
Glad I could help!
Great video and very informative!
Thanks!
Thank you great information
Awesome. Thanks for watching!
Excellent tutorial
Thank you!
Excellent video.. great job! Thank you
Thank you. I appreciate the comment.
thx
Thank you for watching.
awesome!
Thanks!
Nice video. Really helpful. Joined your channel . Any chance you have replaced seals on cylender for the 2 post lift?
I have not. I do plan to do a fluid flush though in hopes of keeping moisture out of the cylinders and prevent seal degrade.
My lift hydraulics tank and motor looks the same as yours, I just installed, I see some units where guys bleed the cylinders but I do not see any bleeder screws on my Cylinders. There was a relief valve listed by the control unit. Not sure? any thoughts?
For my unit the bleed procedure was to run it up and down multiple times. Straight from my manual.... "Place a vehicle on the lift and raise until swivel pads are in contact with the frame of the car. Raise the vehicle up about 3 more feet and lower until the tires touch the floor. Keep raising and lowering the vehicle, increasing the height each time, until the vehicle is completely to the top. This procedure pumps all the air from the system. Now the lift is ready for use." Hope this helps. Mine had air in it that was mostly pumped out when I lifted to synchronize the carriages. I also ran it to the top a few times without a car just in case.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds Great! Thank you very much!
Do you need to lubricant your wire rope with something like 90w gear lube? My Bendpak lift says to. Not sure I want that smell.
That’s a good question. My instructions don’t mention lubing the cables. I wouldn’t like the smell either of gear oil in the air. If I lube mine I’ll use a dry lube.
How long does it take to come down with nothing on them???
Forever................. Or around 1-2 minutes.
👍🏻
Thanks!
What about lowering uneven?
That sounds like a potential restriction in the hydraulics.
To be more transparent, the one side will lower a specific and consistent amount but then remain that distance ahead of the other the remainder of the descent. Could you elaborate what the potential restriction could be?
@@Justin131993 First let's make sure the carriages are even going up. That should eliminate the balance cables as the problem. Then I'd double-check check the carriage sliders aren't binding on the pressure release. After that, a hydraulic restriction would be the last path. A tight bend, kink, or line failure could cause one side to "pause" overcoming the restriction and then lowering it. Is this an old lift, has the fluid in the system been changed? Also, I'm just a dude in his garage too, not a lift tech. But happy to try and help.
Would this be the same for a chain drive?
Yeah. The cables might be in a different location but the concept is the same.
Nice lift, did you have to do anything special as far as the concrete in your garage floor before it was put in?
Thanks,
DC
@@danconlan8735 This lift had minimum specs for the concrete for PSI rating and thickness. It will vary with each brand but 3000PSI and 4" min is a good start. The only prep work I had to do was to locate my tension cables via an X-ray of the floor.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds are the tension cables put in by the builder when the floor was poured? I am considering a lift more for storage of a car but I figured I would have to reinforce the floor or replace it with some kind of beefed up concrete!
Thanks,
DC
@@danconlan8735 My house has "post tension" cables built into the slab (by the builder) rather than rebar. The cables in my slab are under 10's of thousands of pounds of tension. For storage of a car a 4 post is a great style, plus the load is distributed so the concrete doesn't need to be as robust as with a 2 post.
Thanks 💯🔥🍻
No problem 👍