Thanks man been tryna find whats this sounds for a whole month I changed motor mounts inner n outer tire rods then new shocks still had the noise now Ikno n all my problems r over thank you was ready to give up on the Honda community n get a srt
Right, the sound are sometimes hard to trace. I replaced all the things you mentioned too (they needed replaced anyway) then got to the axles. Much better now. Glad this idea helped! I appreciate the comment 👍
It didn’t help car still makein clunking noise im thinkin it’s my exhaust too tight r tension pulley goin bad again I replaced it last year but I’m takein it to a new shop n morning this the 4 one this month hopefully 4th times a charm if not I’m gonna try 1 more after this if still not fixed I’m just gonna get another car was tryina save for a srt but may just have to get another cheap car for the time bein
@@tusturntlilshortykijen5814 man, sorry to hear that. Since you’ve replaced all those parts, it’s hard to imagine what’s making the clunking sound. A good shop should be able to diagnose easily in my opinion, but maybe it’s just one of those gremlins that’s hard to find. Hope it’s nothing major and you can get back on the road. Although buying a srt would be pretty awesome scenario. Have you messed with the transmission at all? Changed fluid? I just changed fluid in mine and it decreased more noises that the car was making. Not to say that’s your issue, but it helped in my case. Best of luck.
Great video sir! Just wondering the cv axles that I'm looking some has ABS ring and some don't. My car has ABS system for sure I felt it more than I want last winter. But yeah do I need to purchase axles with ABS ring on them? Thanks and cheers!!
Hello! Your best bet is to input the details of your car when searching for parts. That way whatever system you’re on will find the correct part for your vehicle and take the guess work out of it. To answer your question, I’d say if your car has ABS, then you’ll need axles with the ring. To me it doesn’t make sense to use axles without the ring if the car has ABS. Hope this helps and enjoy the repair 👍
Hello. Yes, knowing the jacking points is a plus, but not absolutely necessary. On Hondas and most modern vehicles there are Jack points near all four wheels. For the front, look right behind the wheels and you’ll see a tab where the crimp points are for the sheet metal. The same tabs exist for the rear as well. If those aren’t available, look for solid points under the car such as a frame rail or solid mounted suspension component. Avoid soft metals and plastic! Thanks for the question 👍
No, doesn’t need to be in neutral. The pry bar will get the axle disconnected…eventually. Just keep working at it. Try different angles (if you can) different length pry bars can help sometimes. Hope this helps.
Don’t know what’s going on with mine but it’s wobbling again and this is going to be the second time replacing the driver side axle , any idea what causing axle to go bad within just a year ?
Wow…unless you got very unlucky with parts, there is for sure something else causing the problem. It actually bends the axle shaft or are the CV joints failing?
@@ffhjhcgffhhv8097 hello again. I’d say there is almost a zero percent chance that something in the transmission is causing your axles to fail. So, you’re likely safe there. It could be a number of things, but wheel alignment can be part of it. Or other wear items that need replaced that could be causing the axles to be over stressed. Rather than just replace, I’d take it into a shop for proper diagnosis. If you’re able to do the work yourself, just take the prescription and go. That’s what I have to do sometimes. Usually a $45-$75 cost for them to tell me what’s wrong. Money well spent! Best of luck.
call me crazy, but why not just loosen the 19mm and 17mm nut and bolt from the strut, allowing the knuckle to pitch forward...seems like it would be maybe just a touch easier then trying to work the lower ball joint out and back in place...good video though
Hello. I don’t own the car anymore, so it’s sort of hard for me to picture your idea. I remember not seeing any other videos using the way you suggested, but that doesn’t mean it wouldn’t work. Easier is better though, so if it works definitely let me know. 👍
You could remove the two bolts on that strut however that top bolt on the strut connecting to the knuckle is a camber bolt. So you would have to draw a line a get it beck perfectly where it was. Or do the best you can either way you will have to get an alignment bc of that camber bolt. Your welcome!!
I can 100% tell you that my 8th gen civic does NOT have camber bolts, they are just regular bolts...didnt the 8th gen come with regular bolts from the factory? I re watched this video and TBH I cant tell with 100% certainty that he does or does not have a top camber bolt. I guess "Fast Fix" would have to chime in to let us know for certain@@thomasbradley5419
![How To Replace Driver Side CV Axle [8th Gen Honda Civic]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KFEbHa3Flwk/mqdefault.jpg)
![Megan Thee Stallion - Bigger In Texas [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QxTkZTLWdo4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks man been tryna find whats this sounds for a whole month I changed motor mounts inner n outer tire rods then new shocks still had the noise now Ikno n all my problems r over thank you was ready to give up on the Honda community n get a srt
Right, the sound are sometimes hard to trace. I replaced all the things you mentioned too (they needed replaced anyway) then got to the axles. Much better now. Glad this idea helped! I appreciate the comment 👍
It didn’t help car still makein clunking noise im thinkin it’s my exhaust too tight r tension pulley goin bad again I replaced it last year but I’m takein it to a new shop n morning this the 4 one this month hopefully 4th times a charm if not I’m gonna try 1 more after this if still not fixed I’m just gonna get another car was tryina save for a srt but may just have to get another cheap car for the time bein
@@tusturntlilshortykijen5814 man, sorry to hear that. Since you’ve replaced all those parts, it’s hard to imagine what’s making the clunking sound. A good shop should be able to diagnose easily in my opinion, but maybe it’s just one of those gremlins that’s hard to find. Hope it’s nothing major and you can get back on the road. Although buying a srt would be pretty awesome scenario. Have you messed with the transmission at all? Changed fluid? I just changed fluid in mine and it decreased more noises that the car was making. Not to say that’s your issue, but it helped in my case. Best of luck.
Do you recomend replacing both of axcles if only one side is popping
It’s not necessary to do that, but probably good preventative maintenance. If one side failed, the other is likely soon to follow.
Nicely explained.
Good video.
I appreciate that 👍
Very helpful, thank you!
You’re welcome 👍
Excellent video. Quick question: is it normal for some transmission fluid to flow out of the housing once you remove the old axles?
Hello. Yes, completely normal. Check your fluid levels after you make the repair and add if necessary. Thanks for the question.
@@FastFixRUclips So what do you do if you have a manual transmission? There is no dipstick,
Very good i like this kind of videos
Glad you liked! Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video sir! Just wondering the cv axles that I'm looking some has ABS ring and some don't. My car has ABS system for sure I felt it more than I want last winter. But yeah do I need to purchase axles with ABS ring on them? Thanks and cheers!!
Hello! Your best bet is to input the details of your car when searching for parts. That way whatever system you’re on will find the correct part for your vehicle and take the guess work out of it.
To answer your question, I’d say if your car has ABS, then you’ll need axles with the ring. To me it doesn’t make sense to use axles without the ring if the car has ABS. Hope this helps and enjoy the repair 👍
@@FastFixRUclips i thought the same thanks a whole bunch! Take care
Hi just put axle passenger side transmission and drive shaft have 2mm gap it’s nominal??
Hello. I’m not sure what the exact tolerance is, but mine had a similar gap and functioned normally. Hope this helps.
Nice work
Thank you 👍
Hey do I need to know Where are the Jack points specifically or can I Jack it anywhere ??
Hello. Yes, knowing the jacking points is a plus, but not absolutely necessary. On Hondas and most modern vehicles there are Jack points near all four wheels. For the front, look right behind the wheels and you’ll see a tab where the crimp points are for the sheet metal. The same tabs exist for the rear as well. If those aren’t available, look for solid points under the car such as a frame rail or solid mounted suspension component. Avoid soft metals and plastic! Thanks for the question 👍
Does the car need to be in neutral??? I’m having hard time taking the passenger side off of the transmission (with the pry bar)?!!!
No, doesn’t need to be in neutral. The pry bar will get the axle disconnected…eventually. Just keep working at it. Try different angles (if you can) different length pry bars can help sometimes. Hope this helps.
Don’t know what’s going on with mine but it’s wobbling again and this is going to be the second time replacing the driver side axle , any idea what causing axle to go bad within just a year ?
Wow…unless you got very unlucky with parts, there is for sure something else causing the problem. It actually bends the axle shaft or are the CV joints failing?
@@FastFixRUclips
Yea, that’s what I figure, hope it’s not something in the tranny that’s messing up the axel..
@@ffhjhcgffhhv8097 hello again. I’d say there is almost a zero percent chance that something in the transmission is causing your axles to fail. So, you’re likely safe there. It could be a number of things, but wheel alignment can be part of it. Or other wear items that need replaced that could be causing the axles to be over stressed. Rather than just replace, I’d take it into a shop for proper diagnosis. If you’re able to do the work yourself, just take the prescription and go. That’s what I have to do sometimes. Usually a $45-$75 cost for them to tell me what’s wrong. Money well spent! Best of luck.
@@FastFixRUclips
Thks, will do 👍
Im changing the driverside cv axle on my 98 honda prelude due to a rip on the outer boot.
Yep, a common failure is the rubber boot. Have fun with the repair!
Grasias a migo
De nada!
call me crazy, but why not just loosen the 19mm and 17mm nut and bolt from the strut, allowing the knuckle to pitch forward...seems like it would be maybe just a touch easier then trying to work the lower ball joint out and back in place...good video though
Hello. I don’t own the car anymore, so it’s sort of hard for me to picture your idea. I remember not seeing any other videos using the way you suggested, but that doesn’t mean it wouldn’t work. Easier is better though, so if it works definitely let me know. 👍
You could remove the two bolts on that strut however that top bolt on the strut connecting to the knuckle is a camber bolt. So you would have to draw a line a get it beck perfectly where it was. Or do the best you can either way you will have to get an alignment bc of that camber bolt. Your welcome!!
I can 100% tell you that my 8th gen civic does NOT have camber bolts, they are just regular bolts...didnt the 8th gen come with regular bolts from the factory? I re watched this video and TBH I cant tell with 100% certainty that he does or does not have a top camber bolt. I guess "Fast Fix" would have to chime in to let us know for certain@@thomasbradley5419
@@el7145 yeah it was weird bc I have 2 door ex trim and the passenger side is the only one with the camber bolt on the top of the two lol 🤣
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Back at ya! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Super helpful/ bro pls get an impact wrench save ur self some strength
Glad this helped! Yep, got an impact. Air and battery powered 👍
It’s not that easy
Some are and some aren’t. As are the ways of auto repair….
@@FastFixRUclips mines stuck to transmission I watch all the videos nothing helping