www.realmenrealstyle.com/quality-dress-shoe-guide/ - Click here to read the article - How To Spot Quality Dress Shoes www.realmenrealstyle.com/dress-shoe-anatomy-infographic/ - Click here to view the infographic - Dress Shoe Construction
My must expensive now, long time didn't invest on shoes: a 90$ shoes gift from my brother.. Poor me, living in China is so expensive and I'm building my future here..
You're missing one of the largest disadvantages of the Blake Stitch. You're literally sewing straight onto the upper every time you resole. This damages the leather, creates additional holes and after 1 or 2 resoles, a pair of blake stitch shoes are going to start falling apart when the stitches stop holding. Blake stitch, is a cheaper, quicker way of putting shoes together, its not more "modern", and its definitely not as high quality. Its a cheaper simpler way of making shoes at a lower cost point, and is useful for lightweight shoes that need to work in hot climates. Apart from this application (e.g. loafers and hot weather shoes), there's literally no advantage to a blake stitch over a welted shoe. Also a welted shoe doesn't NEED to have a thicker sole, or visible stitching my Gaziano & Girlings show barely any visible stitching of any kind.
Though it is true that the resolability of a blake stitch shoe is *likely* shorter than that of a goodyear welt for lacking a welt. You are being disingenuous when you assert that there is no aesthetic advantage. Though you can buy thousand dollar Gaziano and Girlings ....that have a very tight goodyear welt and relatively thin profile you are paying for that with a price that's 5 times a shoe that would have the exact same leather quality (full grain calf skin is the pinnacle here) for just barely the same or better (it's physics less material in the construction means thinner profile potential) aesthetics. Also because there is less material in the bulk of the soul of a blake stitched shoe they tend to be more flexible right out the box and lighter in weight, needing much less break in time. For some people these are must have attributes in a shoe. This is one reason for example why though I think the uppers are great on some Allen Edmonds I think that the aesthetics of the good year welted sole is just not at all to my taste on that and many other brands.... too thick compared to the generally svelte profile of a blake stitched shoe. That said, I would like to see an experiment where a good year welt and a blake stitch shoe are subjected to a continuous set of re-soles just to see if or when one or the other weakens in the sole stitching over time as you surmised. Additionally, if you are concerned about re-solability of a single pair of shoes in my view you don't have enough shoes. You should have in my view at least 4 pair of shoes that you rotate through wearing and maintaining. Doing this reduces the total number of wears per month or year and extends the life of each shoe dramatically. Assuming you don't wear dress shoes every day , at 4 pair you are sure to have each shoe run for at least a decade before needing a resole (longer if you put in sole protectors before wearing)...be it blake or goodyear stitched If you wear them more often you can simply buy more...and thus automatically wear each less and thus extend the life further and so making moot further your subjective arguments..
@@DavidSaintloth thank you for responding on behalf of Blake stitched shoes. I was wondering why the original commenter was so condescending towards Blake stitched shoes... then I saw his insert about his likely $1,000+ gaziano and girling shoes. Obviously you are going to get higher quality shoes when you pay 5x as much like you mentioned, but again that is mostly marginal as you can get very nice quality Blake stitched shoes for under or around $200 now (Beckett Simonon). I also like that you mentioned taking care of your shoes can help them last up to a decade before needing a resole, so even if Blake stitched shoes can only be resolved 1-2 times (even though good quality Blake stitched shoes can be resoled 3-4 times) you are still looking at 20-30 years out of the shoe. I don’t think anyone who paid $200-300 for a pair of shoes is going to be all that upset when they have to stop wearing them in 30 years.
This is easily the best video you have made to date. I spend a lot of time thrifting dress shoes from Nordstrom rack or similar stores as I have been able to find tons of steals and I have always been able to feel and tell the difference in leather. It's amazing to feel the difference between good and bad leather once you know what you're doing. The fake stuff almost feels laughable by comparison. Knowing a little more about stitching has been extremely helpful and will uses these tips in my hunt as this was an aspect I was always a little unsure of. I will definitely have to keep an eye out for the Blake stitch.
Having watched the video. I realised that subconsciously I consider these when I go shopping and when I did this check on the stuff I already own, I found that most of them are indeed good quality. Great vid Antonio!
Excellent explaination. I do have 25 year old shoes. Yes there is a break in period with blisters, but that’s only a month. My grandfather worked in the shoe industry had his own tree and bespoke a pair for me when I was still living at home.
I subscribed to you a few months ago. I am recently retired from the military and I am to transitioning into civilian jobs. I am working hard to learn the best way to present myself to employers and other professionals (I am also trying to keep my wife impressed with my appearance). I appreciate your help in this area. I often give younger men advice on how to be of a respectable and responsible adult. You are giving me information to pass on to them. Thank you for your time and effort.
mida42 these are the type of comments that should be made... not some random trolls by people all over RUclips. Good to know you are still learning Sir. Have a good day
I had a couple shoe care questions, 1. if your leather outdoors get wet from rain, let's say, and they dry it is that detrimental to the upkeep? if it only gets wet once a week or so, if that, is that ok? how can you care for the shoe before the drying process occurs? 2. with the new Ace Marks shoes, they have the option of having a blue outsole, is this "cool" I couldn't find anything online in terms of style factor. thanks!
Thank you Antonio. I've learned a lot this video. One of the major things I took out of this is I personally don't need a goodyear welted sole, but a blake. The pros and cons of them both really helped in that realization and I got to thank you because I have been having a hard time accepting and/or justifying spending so much money. I always want to buy the best possible and for me, it's awesome to know I don't need the "best". Love the content, love the advise, very grateful.
I have a pair of brogues my grandfather bought and wore in 1957. I wear them multiple times a week, and have resoled them since receiving them. Definitely quality! Very few scuffs and scratches in the leather too.
Great information Antonio. I have always preferred the Blake Stitch for a more stylish look and comfort. The Goodyear Welt does give a bit more weight and size to the shoe which I personally do not prefer. I never knew what the construction names were and how it was built until now. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Antonio. I live in a country where it rains quite a bit and often. Could you please give some pointers on how to take care of a good dress shoe, before, during and after such conditions. Thank you.
All of this is new and I've learned. Still wondering if it's possible to get a dress shoe to feel and perform like a sports shoe given the different construction, appearance and materials? - money no object.
Awesome video! I am a complete novice when it comes to the different types of shoes and their construction and this video made the subject a little less murky. Thanks!
How would a young teen dress stylishly, especially in a school environment, since it is weird to wear sharp and formal clothing. Could you recommend a few outfits? Thank you
Hi Antonio, I've been subscribed to your chanel for more then 2 years and watched almost all of your videos. I really like how you manage to explain everything in a simple and understandable way yet so detailed and professional. I've learnt a lot from your videos and I can tell you, my freinds, coworkers and my family members now ask me for advice about fashion, what to wear with what, what not to wear, etc. In the last year I've come in contact with people who are experts when it comes to suits and shoes and they were pretty surprised about the level of my fashion knowledge which made me extremely proud. Once again, thank you very much, good Sir. p.s. Since I live in Serbia and can't always afford expensive stuff (I consider 300$ for a pair of shoes a lot), I try my best in finding clothes that match your advice with the price I can pay.
I like this a lot. I tend to buy allen edmonds because I live in wisconsin and visit their stores. This was very helpful in understanding shoes. In the past I would go through 3 pairs of dress shoes a year, which was getting very expensive. They were cemented, and the bottoms would come off. With my allen edmonds (and I am assuming all well made shoes), it is have been a while, and they still look like new. There was more upfront cost, but in the long run I will be saving money
Allen Edmonds make good stuff! The one store of their's I have been in was great too. Really knowledgeable sales people, which is super refreshing change from the typical shoe store where the employees know nothing at all about what they are selling.
Just bought $500 aud made in England doc martens on sale for $300 AUD. $500 is worth it cause these will last me at least five years and ten+ with care. But $300 is a steal! How can you turn that down
I do a lot of shopping at thrift stores. Could you make a video showing us how to discern each type of shoe construction just by looking at the shoe? I know there are a lot of cemented shoes that put fake stitches to make them look like they are Blake Stitched. I have no idea how to tell them apart. Thanks!!
Thanks for the recommendation! My advice is to have your phone handy and search for the brand and model of the shoe if there's any information that would be available from the web before purchasing it. Like you mentioned, it can be faked so don't trust your eyes so easily :)
Curt Alford Although this may not be 100% accurate, check if there are stitchings on the bottom and along where the upper and the sole meets. If stitchings can only be found on the bottom the shoe is either cemented or Blake stitched. If there are stitchings both on the bottom and along where the upper and the sole meets, check if the SPI(stitches per inch) matches that on the bottom of the sole. Basically, u want to make sure that the density of stitches u have along where the upper and the sole meets are the same. In that case the shoe is more likely to be Goodyear welted.
Yep basically this. 1) are there stitches on the sole 2) are those stitches real (look on top and see if theres top stitching, and if it matches the same number of stitches per inch/cm as the bottom) if the stitch size doesn't match, it'll be fake and most likely a cemented shoe. 3) if stitching only runs part of the way along the sole (e.g. doesn't run under the heel), then its not goodyear welted.
Antonio, If the manufacturer doesnt say what welt it is, how would I know if I am ordering the shoe? I see how its done here but I can't tell when I see at the store. Thank you
What about the top lining of the shoe? It always seems like every dress shoe I buy now a days has a very uncomfortable, sharp top lining that digs into the bottom of the ankle and Achilles. Where can I buy dress shoes that have a rounded, more comfortable top lining? Also, thanks for the tips!
Great topic and as always well done video. My wife has noticed the quality of my clothes I'm purchasing and so have other woman. The style has refined my look. Thank you!
making my first change from running shoes to leather dress shoes, do you have any tips on how to brake them inn with out losing my feet in the process.
About the Blake stitch I would mention that it can be resolved to a certain point, the stitching is blind and done with a machine so everytime is re-soled new holes are added to the upper, eventually cutting the upper itself
I have been buying G. H. Bass shoes. I like the suede and buck styles. I have grey suede, black loafers and brown moccasins. They have some good prices and I always get the cedar shoe trees, usually on sale. Any opinion on the G. H. Bass brand?
I know there are three types, but I don't know how to spot the construction merely by picking a shoe up. How do I spot a. Blake Stitch vs a Goodyear welt?
I changed the heel padding of my shoe recently. The cobbler told me the heel was actually made of plastic. So he first glued on soft foam like stuff before setting the heel padding. Is that a good way to do it. It looked a little bit funny
Shoes that have stitching on the sole but not the well, is that to look expensive or most likely Blake stitching that you described?? Thank you for the clarity.
I like the look of the Captoe Griffin but the website makes no mention of recrafting charges. Does Ace Marks offer recrafting/resoling of their shoes and for how much?
Hey Antonio what is your recommendation to help those in the military dress better on there free time. That fits in a lower enlisted budget. As well as convenient to do with little time to get it done?
This is my first time watching this video. I just bought some brown lace up boots finally from Thursday Boot company today as well. I have to learn some of these terms more and guess what, I spent about $200 for a Goodyear welt! Praise the Lord!
Hi Antonio. Often, it's claimed that shoes develop character over time. Are creases and patinas the traits that are being referred to? Secondly, when is it ideal to replace rather than resole a shoe? For example, if a shoe of the same quality Goodyear welted etc.. is on sale and the difference between purchasing a comparable pair is marginally than repairing the shoe.
Does anyone know what the hot stamp symbols mean on the soles of used shoes? I bought some nice used Johnston & Murphy shoes and they have a symbol in a diamond shape with the letters "PS" inside the diamond shaped heat stamp on the outtersole Any help? Thanks!!!
When it comes to the blake stitch, since it has the same durability as the goodyear, does that mean that it can be fixed and parts replaced similarly to the goodyear?
The heel that you pointed to is called the counter and the part of the shoe that is between the toe cap and the vamp is called the foxing I think . Keep up the good work .
As I’m out looking for shoes what specifically should I be looking for on the shoe itself? Do you have images to show the difference between the types when I’m looking at shoes in the store? Some of my dress shoes appear to be Goodyear Welt but could they be “fakes” (the company adds stitching to the rim of the outsole to make it appear to be stitched)?
Hey, Antonio! Great video! I loved it! Please, make more of this types of videos to teach us how to discern quality items from the rest. Also, your book "Dress like a Man" is awesome! I learned a lot from it! Thank you for the great work!
How do we identify a blake stitched leather dress shoe over the cemented type when we buy a new pair (most store saleslady don't know what a blake stitched & goodyear welt is & they tell you whatever you want to hear so they can get a sale) ? Some shoes they make it look like a goodyear welt type but it's just fake stitching.
Excellent video I have never heard of the "Blake stitch" so indeed I did learn some valuable information just wondering about the cement method is this just on lower quality shoes or do some shoe manufacturers use this also on higher quality shoes to simply keep their cost down thanks for the video.
I like the blake stitch as they are cost efficient but still maintain comfort, You just have to be a little wary of snow as this could lead to some leakage. Very informational video it was very entertaining Antonio!
Years ago when I was in my 20's I took a pair of my cowboy boots in to be resoled. When I got them he painted the heal outer sole after he resoled them. how common is this?
Good video Well here in Chile is hard to find high quality shoes Florsheim and Aldo seem like good choices In the oxford they have a sleek design and good quality I keep a shoetree in each one and regularly use conditioners
great lnfo cement better for my broken back i thought a shoe was just a shoe now i know better and why i lean towards liking shoes with that construction
Hello Antonio, I have been watching your videos for over year now and have been picking up my clothing styles because of them. But one thing I am having problems with is shoes, my problem is my feet are very wide 3 to 5 E depending on the makers sizes. I have looked around even asking cobblers about custom shoes, but at the moment that is still out of my price range. Do you know of and can recommend any places that cater to larger sizes
When I was a cadet in my country's Naval Academy, we used Blake stitch shoes for everyday wear. A common problem was that after a few months (2 or 3) we had stepped so much over the thread that it wore out, leaving the sole hanging when we lifted the affected shoe. It was such a common problem that we even had a cobbling shop available to repair the shoes whenever that happened. I think it's a problem that could happen to anyone who uses the same Blake stitch shoes every day because it's part of their uniform or because it's a pair they love, so I would advice you to constantly check any shoes built that way, in order to have them repaired when the thread is beggining to wear, since it would be very uncomfortable to have that happen on an important date.
Great video, although a bit commercially flavoured. Loved the explanations, keep up the good work! Also, your speaking is very understandable and the explanations given are clear to understand!
AWESOME AWESOME AND AWESOME. Would be great if you have a video showing us how to identify some aspects of a well made pair of shoes, including craftsmanship and material
This is the 2nd video I have watched from you (the other just going over the outer soles). I do appreciate the direct breakdowns of all the information. I have a better idea of what to look for, but do you have a website or series of websites that breakdown all these features, so I can zero in on a specific shoe? I need comfort and I need waterproof (deal with lot of water issues), but I still need to look professional. I can add inner soles to assist in the comfort, but the "look" combined with the "functional needs" (waterproof) is difficult to find for me.
Antonio, howndonyou care for shoes that combine different types of leather, like suede and "normal" leather? I tend to think they are much more difficult to care for than regular leather dress shoes. I am seeing those more and more in stores, and they look very nice.
Even easier way to find out if ur buying quality items know where it's made Hey Antonio do you think you can start a series on how to do things like pressing your shirts your self the dry cleaning bill is getting expensive for me
Antonio, Another good video. Have been absorbing your content to plan my new style. Two questions related to this video: 1. Can you comment on buying shoes online vs. in a store? I'm reluctant to buy online because I want to try the shoes on my feet before I buy them. Particularly if I'm going to spend $250+ dollars. As you state, shoes from different manufacturer's feel different. 2. Please comment on buying more expensive/well-built shoes for longevity vs. wear-n-tear on uppers. While I take good care of my shoes, I find the uppers get scuffed up enough over time they don't look as sharp and polishing doesn't clean them up. Could that be just the leather quality?
My outsole on my allen Edmonds is stained on the front from me walking around in the winter, I doubt the stain is from salt but rather dirt since it's dark...will saddle soap wipe off all stains?
What are the exact style of the shoes at 0:18 i know they're brogues but i can never seem to find them in that exact shape with the wide round toe and the extra width of the lip where the upper and sole meet im a bit of a novice on dress shoes so please forgive me
I have a hack and I would like your opinion on this. Being a student I am low on budget and get cemented shoes and get them stitched(from a shoe repair shop) it increase the life of the shoe. I would appreciate your thoughts on this technique. Thanks for the Information.
great video, i like buying good looking leather shoes but i've always had a hard time discerting the qualty between the good ones abd the bad ones and price is not always an indication
www.realmenrealstyle.com/quality-dress-shoe-guide/ - Click here to read the article - How To Spot Quality Dress Shoes
www.realmenrealstyle.com/dress-shoe-anatomy-infographic/ - Click here to view the infographic - Dress Shoe Construction
I do! Now that I'm back home I'm trying to get back into research mode......
Hey Antonio, what is the current theme song of your videos called?
Real Men Real Style. I just ordered my first pare of ace marks 😊😊😊
Thanks for enlightening me with knowledge.
My must expensive now, long time didn't invest on shoes: a 90$ shoes gift from my brother..
Poor me, living in China is so expensive and I'm building my future here..
You're missing one of the largest disadvantages of the Blake Stitch. You're literally sewing straight onto the upper every time you resole. This damages the leather, creates additional holes and after 1 or 2 resoles, a pair of blake stitch shoes are going to start falling apart when the stitches stop holding.
Blake stitch, is a cheaper, quicker way of putting shoes together, its not more "modern", and its definitely not as high quality. Its a cheaper simpler way of making shoes at a lower cost point, and is useful for lightweight shoes that need to work in hot climates. Apart from this application (e.g. loafers and hot weather shoes), there's literally no advantage to a blake stitch over a welted shoe.
Also a welted shoe doesn't NEED to have a thicker sole, or visible stitching my Gaziano & Girlings show barely any visible stitching of any kind.
Absolutely right. The style is called closed channel stitching.
Shrink1061 yeah he is just selling us acemarks at this point lost my respect for him
Though it is true that the resolability of a blake stitch shoe is *likely* shorter than that of a goodyear welt for lacking a welt.
You are being disingenuous when you assert that there is no aesthetic advantage. Though you can buy thousand dollar Gaziano and Girlings ....that have a very tight goodyear welt and relatively thin profile you are paying for that with a price that's 5 times a shoe that would have the exact same leather quality (full grain calf skin is the pinnacle here) for just barely the same or better (it's physics less material in the construction means thinner profile potential) aesthetics.
Also because there is less material in the bulk of the soul of a blake stitched shoe they tend to be more flexible right out the box and lighter in weight, needing much less break in time. For some people these are must have attributes in a shoe.
This is one reason for example why though I think the uppers are great on some Allen Edmonds I think that the aesthetics of the good year welted sole is just not at all to my taste on that and many other brands.... too thick compared to the generally svelte profile of a blake stitched shoe.
That said, I would like to see an experiment where a good year welt and a blake stitch shoe are subjected to a continuous set of re-soles just to see if or when one or the other weakens in the sole stitching over time as you surmised.
Additionally, if you are concerned about re-solability of a single pair of shoes in my view you don't have enough shoes. You should have in my view at least 4 pair of shoes that you rotate through wearing and maintaining. Doing this reduces the total number of wears per month or year and extends the life of each shoe dramatically. Assuming you don't wear dress shoes every day , at 4 pair you are sure to have each shoe run for at least a decade before needing a resole (longer if you put in sole protectors before wearing)...be it blake or goodyear stitched If you wear them more often you can simply buy more...and thus automatically wear each less and thus extend the life further and so making moot further your subjective arguments..
@@DavidSaintloth thank you for responding on behalf of Blake stitched shoes. I was wondering why the original commenter was so condescending towards Blake stitched shoes... then I saw his insert about his likely $1,000+ gaziano and girling shoes. Obviously you are going to get higher quality shoes when you pay 5x as much like you mentioned, but again that is mostly marginal as you can get very nice quality Blake stitched shoes for under or around $200 now (Beckett Simonon). I also like that you mentioned taking care of your shoes can help them last up to a decade before needing a resole, so even if Blake stitched shoes can only be resolved 1-2 times (even though good quality Blake stitched shoes can be resoled 3-4 times) you are still looking at 20-30 years out of the shoe. I don’t think anyone who paid $200-300 for a pair of shoes is going to be all that upset when they have to stop wearing them in 30 years.
My point exactly!
Great video. I'd take a Goodyear welted shoe over a Blake stitch every day of the week and twice on Sunday though.
Thanks for sharing your preference!
how convenient that you preferred the blake stitch out of three when acemarks only uses that method with their shoes
yup nothing more than a biased commercial.
Bought a pair of RM Williams 10 years ago. Still using it today. ;D
Australian made
Australian made
I just started the college life and I'm still learning how to dress well , and I must say Antonio your videos helped me a lot so thanks a lot...
Constantine - this should help: www.realmenrealstyle.com/?s=college
This is easily the best video you have made to date. I spend a lot of time thrifting dress shoes from Nordstrom rack or similar stores as I have been able to find tons of steals and I have always been able to feel and tell the difference in leather. It's amazing to feel the difference between good and bad leather once you know what you're doing. The fake stuff almost feels laughable by comparison. Knowing a little more about stitching has been extremely helpful and will uses these tips in my hunt as this was an aspect I was always a little unsure of. I will definitely have to keep an eye out for the Blake stitch.
Which Is More Popular? A Wing Tip, Or A Cap Toe? Also What Do You Think Of The Danish Ecco Shoes? Please Reply.. Thank You.
having just finished my first degree and getting ready for the work world, i have to say this channel is giving me a head start on how to look A+
Wow can't believe I missed this one. I was the one who suggested this a month and a half ago! Thank you Antonio!
Having watched the video. I realised that subconsciously I consider these when I go shopping and when I did this check on the stuff I already own, I found that most of them are indeed good quality. Great vid Antonio!
Super!
Excellent explaination. I do have 25 year old shoes. Yes there is a break in period with blisters, but that’s only a month. My grandfather worked in the shoe industry had his own tree and bespoke a pair for me when I was still living at home.
I subscribed to you a few months ago. I am recently retired from the military and I am to transitioning into civilian jobs. I am working hard to learn the best way to present myself to employers and other professionals (I am also trying to keep my wife impressed with my appearance). I appreciate your help in this area.
I often give younger men advice on how to be of a respectable and responsible adult. You are giving me information to pass on to them. Thank you for your time and effort.
mida42 these are the type of comments that should be made... not some random trolls by people all over RUclips. Good to know you are still learning Sir. Have a good day
mi
Finally a RMRS video that isn't clickbaity and annoying. oh how I've missed you.
Which videos do you think are clickbaity?
Hi Antonio, just wonder is there a need to have additional thin rubber sole with the leather sole Oxford shoe? Thank you
I had a couple shoe care questions, 1. if your leather outdoors get wet from rain, let's say, and they dry it is that detrimental to the upkeep? if it only gets wet once a week or so, if that, is that ok? how can you care for the shoe before the drying process occurs?
2. with the new Ace Marks shoes, they have the option of having a blue outsole, is this "cool" I couldn't find anything online in terms of style factor.
thanks!
Thank you Antonio. I've learned a lot this video. One of the major things I took out of this is I personally don't need a goodyear welted sole, but a blake. The pros and cons of them both really helped in that realization and I got to thank you because I have been having a hard time accepting and/or justifying spending so much money. I always want to buy the best possible and for me, it's awesome to know I don't need the "best". Love the content, love the advise, very grateful.
Glad you find it useful.
I have a pair of brogues my grandfather bought and wore in 1957. I wear them multiple times a week, and have resoled them since receiving them. Definitely quality! Very few scuffs and scratches in the leather too.
What brand is it?
Real Men Real Style no Idea! any markings on it have been worn off.
Great information Antonio. I have always preferred the Blake Stitch for a more stylish look and comfort. The Goodyear Welt does give a bit more weight and size to the shoe which I personally do not prefer. I never knew what the construction names were and how it was built until now. Thanks for sharing!
great Antonio following your work for more than 6 months now u help me shape up my life. thanks
Hi Antonio. I live in a country where it rains quite a bit and often. Could you please give some pointers on how to take care of a good dress shoe, before, during and after such conditions. Thank you.
Make sure to follow the proper guide to caring for your leather: www.realmenrealstyle.com/clean-condition-polish-leather/
All of this is new and I've learned. Still wondering if it's possible to get a dress shoe to feel and perform like a sports shoe given the different construction, appearance and materials? - money no object.
Antonio, can you tell us what's that watch in the intro (00:36). I've seen it so many times, and I always loved it, but never remembered to ask you
powmod I am also interested what watch is it!
powmod its nice
powmod even me too
Invicta S1 Rally - model 23599 or model 16009. Cheers
Falkner Blitz cheers dude
I LEARNED ALOT. I HAD NO IDEA OF THESE THREE TYPES OF SHOES. THIS VIDEO HAS ALOT OF EDUCATION AND THAT MAKES ME GIVE IT A THUMBS UP.
Awesome video! I am a complete novice when it comes to the different types of shoes and their construction and this video made the subject a little less murky. Thanks!
Thank you!
I was following your videos for a year now but this video made me to subscribe. Well explained and thank you.
I have purchased a Kurt Geiger derby brogue laceup and I'm not sure what stitching it has or if it can be re-soled... Need some advise please 🙂
There are a few mis-transcribed words in the captioning. Also I wonder how do you Blake stitch inside around the toe area?
the video is very informative .... so if a stiching is visible does it mean it's a goodyear welt
Was reading this from Kenya. I have taken a new love for shoes and this was very informative.
How would a young teen dress stylishly, especially in a school environment, since it is weird to wear sharp and formal clothing. Could you recommend a few outfits? Thank you
Hi Antonio, I've been subscribed to your chanel for more then 2 years and watched almost all of your videos. I really like how you manage to explain everything in a simple and understandable way yet so detailed and professional. I've learnt a lot from your videos and I can tell you, my freinds, coworkers and my family members now ask me for advice about fashion, what to wear with what, what not to wear, etc. In the last year I've come in contact with people who are experts when it comes to suits and shoes and they were pretty surprised about the level of my fashion knowledge which made me extremely proud. Once again, thank you very much, good Sir.
p.s. Since I live in Serbia and can't always afford expensive stuff (I consider 300$ for a pair of shoes a lot), I try my best in finding clothes that match your advice with the price I can pay.
How can you tell by looking at a shoe if it is cemented, goodyear welt or blake stitching?
I like this a lot. I tend to buy allen edmonds because I live in wisconsin and visit their stores. This was very helpful in understanding shoes. In the past I would go through 3 pairs of dress shoes a year, which was getting very expensive. They were cemented, and the bottoms would come off. With my allen edmonds (and I am assuming all well made shoes), it is have been a while, and they still look like new. There was more upfront cost, but in the long run I will be saving money
Exactly! Invest in quality and it will last longer.
Allen Edmonds make good stuff! The one store of their's I have been in was great too. Really knowledgeable sales people, which is super refreshing change from the typical shoe store where the employees know nothing at all about what they are selling.
The sales person I dealt with had 25 years of experience. She had a lot of good comments about the shoes, and why they should be fitted as they were.
I love Allen Edmonds. Classic and last forever.
Just bought $500 aud made in England doc martens on sale for $300 AUD. $500 is worth it cause these will last me at least five years and ten+ with care. But $300 is a steal! How can you turn that down
Greetings! Is it good/healthy for the foot when on a shoe half the insole (middle to the heel) is soft, and the rest half is hard surface?
I do a lot of shopping at thrift stores. Could you make a video showing us how to discern each type of shoe construction just by looking at the shoe? I know there are a lot of cemented shoes that put fake stitches to make them look like they are Blake Stitched. I have no idea how to tell them apart. Thanks!!
Thanks for the recommendation! My advice is to have your phone handy and search for the brand and model of the shoe if there's any information that would be available from the web before purchasing it. Like you mentioned, it can be faked so don't trust your eyes so easily :)
Curt Alford Although this may not be 100% accurate, check if there are stitchings on the bottom and along where the upper and the sole meets. If stitchings can only be found on the bottom the shoe is either cemented or Blake stitched. If there are stitchings both on the bottom and along where the upper and the sole meets, check if the SPI(stitches per inch) matches that on the bottom of the sole. Basically, u want to make sure that the density of stitches u have along where the upper and the sole meets are the same. In that case the shoe is more likely to be Goodyear welted.
Spot on. The legwork makes shopping worth it.
gentleman gazette has some good videos what to look for at a thrift store.
Yep basically this.
1) are there stitches on the sole
2) are those stitches real (look on top and see if theres top stitching, and if it matches the same number of stitches per inch/cm as the bottom) if the stitch size doesn't match, it'll be fake and most likely a cemented shoe.
3) if stitching only runs part of the way along the sole (e.g. doesn't run under the heel), then its not goodyear welted.
Would it be cheaper to take a shoe with a decently torn welt to a cobbler or should i buy another pair entierely?
Real Men Real Style,
Any reason why you excluded Norwegian welt which is 4th type of popular shoe construction technique ?
I know what to ask about when I purchase my next pair of shoes as a result of this video. Thank you, Antonio.
What about Rapid Blake. I heard they are still flexible, but more waterproof. Is this true?
Antonio, If the manufacturer doesnt say what welt it is, how would I know if I am ordering the shoe? I see how its done here but I can't tell when I see at the store. Thank you
What about the top lining of the shoe? It always seems like every dress shoe I buy now a days has a very uncomfortable, sharp top lining that digs into the bottom of the ankle and Achilles. Where can I buy dress shoes that have a rounded, more comfortable top lining? Also, thanks for the tips!
Hola, Antonio! Could you take the time to explain storm welting. Thank you.
Great topic and as always well done video. My wife has noticed the quality of my clothes I'm purchasing and so have other woman. The style has refined my look. Thank you!
making my first change from running shoes to leather dress shoes, do you have any tips on how to brake them inn with out losing my feet in the process.
What is your opinion on stitch down shoes?
About the Blake stitch I would mention that it can be resolved to a certain point, the stitching is blind and done with a machine so everytime is re-soled new holes are added to the upper, eventually cutting the upper itself
this is a great piece of work! we need more videos about how to spot quality issues in other items too! awesome stuff!
I have been buying G. H. Bass shoes. I like the suede and buck styles. I have grey suede, black loafers and brown moccasins. They have some good prices and I always get the cedar shoe trees, usually on sale. Any opinion on the G. H. Bass brand?
I know there are three types, but I don't know how to spot the construction merely by picking a shoe up. How do I spot a. Blake Stitch vs a Goodyear welt?
I changed the heel padding of my shoe recently. The cobbler told me the heel was actually made of plastic. So he first glued on soft foam like stuff before setting the heel padding. Is that a good way to do it. It looked a little bit funny
Shoes that have stitching on the sole but not the well, is that to look expensive or most likely Blake stitching that you described?? Thank you for the clarity.
Here you go: www.realmenrealstyle.com/quality-dress-shoe-guide/
How can you tell if a shoe is on blank Stitch? I enjoyed your video please teach me what a blank Stitch looks like
Have no clue how I ended up here but damn this guy is cool and knows his stuff! Well spoken
I like the look of the Captoe Griffin but the website makes no mention of recrafting charges. Does Ace Marks offer recrafting/resoling of their shoes and for how much?
They don't but if you have a cobbler close by give them a call and ask if they can repair Blake Welted shoes. Most can but it's good to make sure.
Hey Antonio what is your recommendation to help those in the military dress better on there free time. That fits in a lower enlisted budget. As well as convenient to do with little time to get it done?
This is my first time watching this video. I just bought some brown lace up boots finally from Thursday Boot company today as well. I have to learn some of these terms more and guess what, I spent about $200 for a Goodyear welt! Praise the Lord!
What's your opinion heel guards and toe taps on dress shoes? Should I have my cobbler install them on my dress shoes?
Check this guide: www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?74631-Shoe-Sole-and-Heel-Protectors
Hi Antonio. Often, it's claimed that shoes develop character over time. Are creases and patinas the traits that are being referred to? Secondly, when is it ideal to replace rather than resole a shoe? For example, if a shoe of the same quality Goodyear welted etc.. is on sale and the difference between purchasing a comparable pair is marginally than repairing the shoe.
Does anyone know what the hot stamp symbols mean on the soles of used shoes? I bought some nice used Johnston & Murphy shoes and they have a symbol in a diamond shape with the letters "PS" inside the diamond shaped heat stamp on the outtersole Any help? Thanks!!!
how about shoes like timberland high colar (6") or same class from caterpillar? could you do a video about them?
That's all fine and well. What about the width of the shoe? I've tried to buy nice dress shoes and custom made is what I'm told.
When it comes to the blake stitch, since it has the same durability as the goodyear, does that mean that it can be fixed and parts replaced similarly to the goodyear?
The heel that you pointed to is called the counter and the part of the shoe that is between the toe cap and the vamp is called the foxing I think . Keep up the good work .
As I’m out looking for shoes what specifically should I be looking for on the shoe itself? Do you have images to show the difference between the types when I’m looking at shoes in the store? Some of my dress shoes appear to be Goodyear Welt but could they be “fakes” (the company adds stitching to the rim of the outsole to make it appear to be stitched)?
I was just wondering if you know of any dress shoe websites that i can get wide?
Do cemented dress shoes still have a place in your wardrobe or do you eliminate them altogether?
Hey, Antonio! Great video! I loved it! Please, make more of this types of videos to teach us how to discern quality items from the rest.
Also, your book "Dress like a Man" is awesome! I learned a lot from it! Thank you for the great work!
Thanks for the support - Appreciate it!
How do we identify a blake stitched leather dress shoe over the cemented type when we buy a new pair (most store saleslady don't know what a blake stitched & goodyear welt is & they tell you whatever you want to hear so they can get a sale) ? Some shoes they make it look like a goodyear welt type but it's just fake stitching.
Excellent video I have never heard of the "Blake stitch" so indeed I did learn some valuable information just wondering about the cement method is this just on lower quality shoes or do some shoe manufacturers use this also on higher quality shoes to simply keep their cost down thanks for the video.
Hey man, I have been looking for a good brand that has a vintage style white and brown wingtip oxfords. Do you know any?
I like the blake stitch as they are cost efficient but still maintain comfort, You just have to be a little wary of snow as this could lead to some leakage. Very informational video it was very entertaining Antonio!
Looking to buy quality dress shoes for the first time..incredibly informing..looking for Blake stitch now
Years ago when I was in my 20's I took a pair of my cowboy boots in to be resoled. When I got them he painted the heal outer sole after he resoled them. how common is this?
Good video Well here in Chile is hard to find high quality shoes Florsheim and Aldo seem like good choices In the oxford they have a sleek design and good quality I keep a shoetree in each one and regularly use conditioners
great lnfo
cement better for my broken back
i thought a shoe was just a shoe
now i know better
and why i lean towards liking shoes with that construction
Hello Antonio, I have been watching your videos for over year now and have been picking up my clothing styles because of them. But one thing I am having problems with is shoes, my problem is my feet are very wide 3 to 5 E depending on the makers sizes. I have looked around even asking cobblers about custom shoes, but at the moment that is still out of my price range. Do you know of and can recommend any places that cater to larger sizes
When I was a cadet in my country's Naval Academy, we used Blake stitch shoes for everyday wear. A common problem was that after a few months (2 or 3) we had stepped so much over the thread that it wore out, leaving the sole hanging when we lifted the affected shoe. It was such a common problem that we even had a cobbling shop available to repair the shoes whenever that happened.
I think it's a problem that could happen to anyone who uses the same Blake stitch shoes every day because it's part of their uniform or because it's a pair they love, so I would advice you to constantly check any shoes built that way, in order to have them repaired when the thread is beggining to wear, since it would be very uncomfortable to have that happen on an important date.
For sure!
Could you cover sole types, rubber soles, leather soles etc
Great video, although a bit commercially flavoured. Loved the explanations, keep up the good work! Also, your speaking is very understandable and the explanations given are clear to understand!
Glad I checked out older vids...
I'm man enough to admit this was all new to me. My thanks.
AWESOME AWESOME AND AWESOME. Would be great if you have a video showing us how to identify some aspects of a well made pair of shoes, including craftsmanship and material
This is the 2nd video I have watched from you (the other just going over the outer soles). I do appreciate the direct breakdowns of all the information. I have a better idea of what to look for, but do you have a website or series of websites that breakdown all these features, so I can zero in on a specific shoe? I need comfort and I need waterproof (deal with lot of water issues), but I still need to look professional. I can add inner soles to assist in the comfort, but the "look" combined with the "functional needs" (waterproof) is difficult to find for me.
What do you think about Salvatore Ferragamo?
Antonio, howndonyou care for shoes that combine different types of leather, like suede and "normal" leather? I tend to think they are much more difficult to care for than regular leather dress shoes.
I am seeing those more and more in stores, and they look very nice.
Suede needs to stay dry in order to maintain its texture. Seal the leather with a water-proof spray to protect your shoes from water.
Can you tell me what shoe to wear if your feet is wide .
Thanks Antonio ! I have been meaning to get a dress shoe for a while now and this video really helps !
Awesome to know it helps! Thanks for watching!
Even easier way to find out if ur buying quality items know where it's made
Hey Antonio do you think you can start a series on how to do things like pressing your shirts your self the dry cleaning bill is getting expensive for me
Great recommendation! Be on the lookout for my next videos :)
Ironing a Men’s Dress Shirt | 7 Steps to Iron A Dress Shirt:www.realmenrealstyle.com/7-steps-iron-shirt-transcript/
Antonio, Another good video. Have been absorbing your content to plan my new style. Two questions related to this video:
1. Can you comment on buying shoes online vs. in a store? I'm reluctant to buy online because I want to try the shoes on my feet before I buy them. Particularly if I'm going to spend $250+ dollars. As you state, shoes from different manufacturer's feel different.
2. Please comment on buying more expensive/well-built shoes for longevity vs. wear-n-tear on uppers. While I take good care of my shoes, I find the uppers get scuffed up enough over time they don't look as sharp and polishing doesn't clean them up. Could that be just the leather quality?
Visit the store and try it on.
My outsole on my allen Edmonds is stained on the front from me walking around in the winter, I doubt the stain is from salt but rather dirt since it's dark...will saddle soap wipe off all stains?
Try these brands. Check my guide here: www.realmenrealstyle.com/clean-condition-polish-leather/
So is Acemarks shoes a Blake Stitch construction?
hi antonio i wanted to know the difference between a real and fake leather shoe
What are the exact style of the shoes at 0:18 i know they're brogues but i can never seem to find them in that exact shape with the wide round toe and the extra width of the lip where the upper and sole meet
im a bit of a novice on dress shoes so please forgive me
Thank you so much for this video Antonio! Really needed something like this! :)
Thank you Rafael! I'm glad you find it useful!
I have a hack and I would like your opinion on this. Being a student I am low on budget and get cemented shoes and get them stitched(from a shoe repair shop) it increase the life of the shoe. I would appreciate your thoughts on this technique.
Thanks for the Information.
the definition of quality is your videos
Excellent and concise! So glad I saw this video before buying. Thx!
great video, i like buying good looking leather shoes but i've always had a hard time discerting the qualty between the good ones abd the bad ones and price is not always an indication
Is the discount code still good? I twas not working for me
How about a video on dress socks. I look forward to your positive response.