Mazdaspeed 3 - VVT & Timing Chain Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 1 апр 2017
- In this video we take on the infamous VVT job on the MZR 2.3 disi engine in the Mazdaspeed 3. Although we had done the job in the past, we forgot to SET CHAIN TENSION, so we did the job again to make sure we are ready to turn up the boost with the new big turbo. Enjoy the video! Please like, share, and subscribe :)
Tips:
- Set the engine at TDC before removing timing components, to avoid piston to valve interference.
- Remove timing tools when loosening and tightening components, to prevent damage to timing tools, cams and block.
- When locking the cams, make sure the intake and exhaust cam lobes for cylinder 1 are facing each other at a 45 degree angle (this indicates TDC).
- Replace the crank pulley bolt as it it a stretch bolt (replacing the cam sprocket bolts is also recommended).
- Replace all friction washers, including the ones for the cam sprockets to ensure engine stays in time.
Since we already had the JBR 88A rear motor mount installed, we went ahead and installed the JBR 80A passenger, and 88A transmission motor mounts when putting it back together.
Crank Pulley Counter-hold Tool Part # LRT-12-093 (this is an old Land Rover special tool that worked perfectly for us, but any other spanner of similar size with holes approximately 3 inches apart should work.
Instagram - @wannabe_tuners
Merch - teespring.com/stores/wannabet...
Mods in this video:
1. Snow Performance Stage 1 WMI Kit
2. Cobb Accessport V2 (self tuned)
3. Bfg G-force Comp 2 All Seasons
4. Jbr Oil Catch Can (vta setup)
5. Ngk One Step Colder Plugs
6. Cpe Top Mount Intercooler
7. Jbr 88a Rear Motor Mount
8. Jbr 88a Trans Motor Mount
9. Jbr 80a Pass Motor Mount
10. Autotech HPFP Internals
11. Eibach Lowering Springs
12. Cnt Catted Downpipe
13. Koni Yellow Shocks
14. Volk TE37 Replicas
15. Raceland E-Cutout
16. Cobb 3 Port Ebcs
17. Resonator Delete
18. Htp Full 3" Intake
19. Bnr S4 V2 Turbo
20. Forge Bpv V1 
Авто/Мото
Great vid with even better commentary! You actually have way more personality than most vids or TV shows. My timing cover is leaking something fierce and I need to do something about it; along with replace my rack since that leaks as well. I didn't think it would be difficult, but after watching this, way more steps than I thought, but still very simple. I sub'd because someday I'll have to replace my chain and since I'm too cheap to pay someone I'll just do it myself.
This video is flippin great boys. Couple laughs here and there really helped keep my attention. Watched every single second start to finish.
Thanks a lot brother! That means a lot to us!
Doing this job next week will be using this as a step by step for mine good info helps alot
Just finished this job and wanted to be the 157th person to thanks for doing this awesome community service! Coupled with the manual everything went perfect.
Thanks man! Happy to hear it went smoothly for ya
Thank you so much for this video ! I just finished my timming chain and my speed3 sounds like new ! This was very helpful !
That's great to hear!
Great video guys. I used it as a visual aid during my VVT ACTUATOR replacement job along with the factory manual. I also enjoyed the commentary as well as the back and forth banter. I'm a new subscriber.
Alex Lechner Thanks! I'm glad we could be of help☺
I know this is 6 years late but where did you find the manual? I need to replace timing and would like to have this reference when I do need to.
Got my S4 V2 install after watching your videos. The spool sound is so addicting
I know man it's insane, and it drives so much smoother.
Exellent video guys was a big help thanx heaps..my engine runs like a champ now and no more timing chain rattle 👌
Beautiful
You guys are incredible. This is hugely helpful for me being an idiot and thinking about tackling this soon
Thanks! We're glad you find it useful :) Let us know if you have any questions when you start
That is a hell of a job. Very detailed. Thank you.
Thanks a lot :)
Good video for those wanting a step by step i would however not bother rotating the freespining sprockets as you are effectively wearing the friction washer away, the tensioner will remove all slack anyway. Also fitting the balancer along with crank bolt will help you rotate back to tdc instead of possibly damaging crank end with multigrip pliers
Loved this video I’m about to tackle that job on my own with you guys playing in the background for some company while I screw up the job somehow someway 😂
how’d it go ?
It’s really useful what you guys have done
Glad to help out;)
really helpful im going to try this job tomorrow
How did you get on with this job mate?Any issues?
Interested in how it went
nice vid guys! up here in thunder bay rebuilding a speed6 and hoping to build my speed3 in a couple years
Thanks! That should be awesome:)
Amazing demonstration guys please please I beg you to keep bringing more of these videos , I subscribed btw.
Alexis Thanks eh!
great video 👍
This is very helpful thanks guys!
Happy to help;)
Im in the middle of nowhere...I have a slowly dying flashlight, a hammer, 2 wedges, and a spoon....im now going to replace the timing chain in the VVT...best part....in gonna try and video what happens. Comedy gold is born.
This video is my savior
Excellent guys !!!! good video
Excellent video
exelente... gracias...desde vzla,,,
Using a grinder tool for the oil pump was really cool!
Working with what we have ;)
Excellent video, thanks this job seems a little less intimidating now.
nice work guys
Thank you :)
Wow, I might as well stick to cars with timing belts! This is just stupid. Nice job doing this work guys.
I just changed the chain and I did put everything on time the can and crank, cylinder one on top.
yah man good vid
Janet Bostock If u have any questions let us know:)
Awesome and very detailed video!
How is it possible to get uneven tension on the chain? Just wondering so I don’t make the same mistake
What song starts playing at 7:07? Great video. My vct has finally begun to rattle on cold starts and I'm due for timing adjustment as well.
This video made my day. “The key here is to have a lot of Rum and Cokes and then just wrench” lol
I went with your video and did the job myself for the first time. I am bout to start now hope it starts otherwise city bus. Sweet video though
Omg weirdos on these busses lol. I checked and rechecked timing was tits everytime tensionwas good and i get everything back on with coulple pulleys andbolts left over. I start it and immediately hear either chain slapping valve cover or the vvt sprocket was getting actuated by some rtv that i got all over instslling cover. Chain tension seems really tight so no way that it was slapping any cover. I am going to take hpfp off again to install trusty cam locker. Tool and set timing again. Will update with results.
@@evergreenpnw2532update?
thank you
Timing adjustment with TDC at 37:54
Thanks bro.....i just couldnt stand watching this whole video
Good video a forged drop in build would be awesome
Thanks man! Who knows what the future holds. I plan on keeping this car for a long time. They're so fun:)
Had my 07 cx 7 2.3 turbo 186km chain done in Mazda London Ont Total cost 2200 they also did spark plugs .
shane walsh Right on! Labor cost is always going to be a big factor :)
Wannabe Tuners. Plus another 1000 for decarbonnig because of Engine missfire codes 302.303.But I still luv the car it really is quick and very stable Great channel guys
shane walsh Thanks man! These engines are dirty in so many ways lol
THANK YOU!! I would have been lost if not for this video. I'm a Chrysler tech and it blew my mind when I tore into it and nothing other than the oil pump is keywayed haha 0.o the only question I have is why did you remove the cam tool before torque? rather than leaving it there for the extra assurance on top of holding each cam with a wrench. Again tho, Thank you for posting the video and taking your time explaining it step by step!
You're welcome! Glad you found it useful:) The reason for removing the cam locking plate and crankshaft TDC pin before tightening the crank bolt an additional 90 degrees, is to prevent cracking the camshafts, damaging the block, and damaging the special tools. When the crank bolt is initially tightened to 75-80 ft lbs of torque, we found that it is tight enough to promote enough friction to ensure that the cams will also rotate if the crank rotates when the crank bolt is tightened an additional 90 degrees which keeps the engine in time. To prevent shearing the small bolt that fits through the crank pulley hole into the timing cover, we removed it and used a suitable crank pulley counter hold for the additional 90 degrees. This also minimizes the amount of crankshaft rotation. The power of friction!
Wannabe Tuners ah got ya, litteraly just fired the car up and it runs perfect. If ya hit any issues with a Chrysler product let me know haha.
Will do brother! Thanks
@@WannabeTuners Hi, I am really new to all of this, but I am about to remove the timing chain to replace the head gasket, how can you damage the block if you leave the cam locking plate? What could be the worst case scenario? Thank you so much for your videos!
Thank you Wannabe tunners for your awsome video. Couldnt have done this job without you guys. One question, i wiped down all sprockets and contact surfaces with brake cleaner before sliding on the new friction washers, i also wiped down the friction washers themselves with brake cleaner before sliding them on. Do you think i could have caused any harm to the friction washers by doing that cause they are a diamond dust washer?
Thanks man! As long as there isn't actual debris on the friction washer surface, you should be ok. Spraying some brake/parts cleaner on them and allowing it to evaporate won't cause any harm in my opinion, but I do think it's better to just leave them dry, and avoid touching the surface with your fingers
hey good job guys,,,, you guy for hire lol
I’m doing this job as we speak and while trying to find top dead center and with a breaker bar broke my cam shaft while trying to remove crank shaft pulley new one In the mail but could use any available advice on how to replace the cam haha awesome video btw
Sorry to hear man. Before starting any disassembly, the engine should be set to TDC first. Then when loosening the crankshaft bolt u want to use some sort of counter hold against the pulley, and have all timing tools removed to prevent damaging anything. Thanks :)
great, video man, I going to change timing chain , got all I need except friction washers. How many friction washer are there ?
There are three on the crank and one for each cam sprocket
Seems like a good time to do this will be when i want to install aftermarket cams anyway. How necessary would you say the oil pump chain replacement is? Does that chain stretch as bad as the timing chain?
Tbh I don't think the chain stretches. It's just the worn out VVT causing excessive slack. And yeah! Why do the job twice right!
Just did this on a bottom end swap on focus st. I noticed after the fact that i never loosened the vcts. Is that a big deal. I have the engine in time but im wondering if i f'd up the vcts by not loosening them from cams before i removed the cams
awesome video guys where In Canada are you?
Just out of the Toronto area!
It would be good то see the engine runing after a job like this
Thankyou for this video, just to be certain, this is all identical and relevent to the 2005 MPS 6? (mazdaspeed 6) , Im about to attack this one and most of the kits i find dont seem to have friction washers for the cam sprockets, or the crank bolt, also can you link me to where you got the tdc and cam alignment tools? Thanks!
Edgeautosport sells the Timing chain replacement kit, as well as the 'Massive Speed System' Timing tool kit. The replacement kit does not come with an exhaust cam bolt or friction washer, as the procedure does not require you to loosen the exhaust cam. The only problem with not loosening the exhaust cam, is that evening out chain tension as depicted in the video is near impossible. I would highly recommend ordering the exhaust cam bolt and friction washer for this reason. Here's the link for the Timing chain replacement kit which gives you the option to select whether you want to add the 'Massive Speed System' timing tool kit :) edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem-vvt-replacement-kit-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/
damn thanks for this video!
just recently had the rod bearings replace
but no i hear a tickking sound ,speciallly when i accelerate.i believe its the lifters now..
if i take out the crank shafter to replace the lifters heads covers,
would have to re time the car?? timing chain>??
Yes the engine will then need to be re-timed
Great step-by-step video guys! Couple of questions though... Did you prime the fuel system prior to starting the engine and if so, how was that done? Also, did the orientation of the VVT actuator as how it was installed really not matter? OEM manual specifies to install exactly as how the original was removed. Thanks.
Hey thanks man! We primed the fuel system by turning the key to the on position a few times, although it may stutter at start up because there is still air on the high pressure side of the fuel system. This is normal. The orientation of the VVT does not matter. I too have read up on this, and it seems that the only reason it is recommended to have the orientation the same is when you are only changing the VVT out, and not loosening the exhaust cam. Many have not installed it in the same orientation and are problem free! Either way, we made a mark on the old VVT, and transferred it over to the new one just in case.
Hi WT,
Oh, cool, I'll prime it a few times before cranking the engine.
I discovered another procedure from the Mazda Forum (www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f33/how-vvt-140986/) and noticed that they too installed the VVT actuator in the same position as you did which leads me to believe it's probably ok, but as you mention it does not matter. I wondered if the holes (4) in the actuator aligned with those on the end of the camshaft facing out radially (not the ones pointing out horizontally), but they don't appear to be based on how the original VVT was installed from the factory.
Another question though as I am at the point to run the crankshaft bolt the additional 90° after having torqued it to 75 ft-lbf. I'd say I've gotten it to ~45° judging where it is now, but it's getting to the point where it is getting harder to turn the breaker bar and mind you that I am using my leg against the bar sitting on the ground. I was thinking of using a sledge and hit the breaker bar just right to mimic an impact gun or drill method. Would you mind giving some tips in how you got yours to turn to the 90° point?
One other comment or suggestion: I was able to take the fuel pump off without disconnecting it from the housing which covers the outer lobe of the intake camshaft. This way you don't need to bother with the spring which I believe goes to the piston where the lobe contacts and only have to replace L3K9-10-193 and not the o-ring (unless it leaked at this juncture and was needed to be replaced also).
Thanks!
Jeff
Hey sorry for the late response, hopefully it all went well:) For the 90 degree's, I just used my body weight with a breaker bar and turned it in small increments. Not all at once. This is definitely the hardest part of the job because a lot of force is required to turn it the additional 90 degree's. For the fuel pump removal, that sounds like a good idea, that way you're not fighting the spring on the fuel pump piston.
Hi,
No worries, eventually I figured I needed to change two things in getting the extra 45°. First, I realized that the pulley rotated slightly based on how the pulley holder was positioned. Rotated it 180° where it appeared to be having a better grip resting towards the front of the chassis rather than the rear. Secondly, the breaker bar didn't quite provide the leverage needed since it wasn't a long one. I ended up cranking my torque wrench all the way up which then provided the leverage needed since it was much longer than the BB. Again, used my legs seated on the ground and stepped down on the torque wrench and got there incrementally.
So, the car started upon cranking it once! Kinda sputtered for a little bit as you mentioned, but no more rattling noise or ticking heard. The scanner codes P0011 and P0016 were still there after I took it for a test drive and since they were permanent I wasn't able to clear them. Scanner guide explanation is that only the car can erase them which happened sometime the next day. One rookie mistake was not to replace the clamp on a coolant hose that runs on the bottom of the fuel pump. Needless to say, coolant started leaking after the engine got up to temperature, but after replacing the clamp, problem was fixed.
Honestly speaking, I don't think I would have been able to do this job without your help. I am glad I found your video which assisted me quite a bit to get the car fixed. The timing chain wasn't stretched that much, but the VVT actuator definitely needed to be replaced since the round part popped out and is now somewhere in the oil pan. Aside from being short a few tools and getting parts at a decent price (online at Cox Mazda located in Bradenton, FL) this job was well worth the effort in getting it done by myself instead of spending $$ at the dealer. I think now I'll have a few rum and Cokes to celebrate:)
I hope I can call upon you guys in the future with any future mechanical jobs on my Mazda.
Thanks again!
JN
Hahaha thanks man, I'm happy it all worked out for you:D
I'm having a hell of a time finding the SST for holding the pulleys in place, the Y shaped spanner thing. Any ideas? I got it apart without it but now I'm getting her back together.
We used a Land Rover spanner tool, we posted the part number and measurements of it on our instagram page :)
Hello guys! Great video, in the video at 12:16 you placed a note saying that the first time you did the job you forgot to lock the craneo and that it made it difficult to rotate the crank to TDC by hand due to valves interfering with the pistons,how did you fix that? I think the same happened to me I also broke the exhaust camshaft because I left the trimming tool lock for the cams while I removed the crank pulley, so I am trying to find out what can I do to put it back at TDC to continue and remove the cams? Thank you so much for your help and your videos!
The harder option would be to remove the camshafts which ensure all valves are closed as you rotate the crankshaft to TDC. Then you can re-install the cams into the correct position. The other easier option is to try and rotate the crankshaft so that the all the pistons are roughly halfway down the cylinders, adjust the cams into position, then adjust the crank. That's why it's a good idea to set the engine at TDC prior to taking the timing components apart, because otherwise the cams and crank can be totally out of sink causing potential piston to valve contact when rotating the crankshaft to the TDC position.
@@WannabeTuners than you so much guys I did the second option and it worked! So thank you so much for your videos and all the help and information !
@@mikeup91 Your very welcome! Glad it worked out :)
Im going to attempt this. Im scurred.
So how did you hold the crankshaft pulley when you were tightening and torquing the crank bolt?
For the initial torqueing we used a bolt that threads through the crank pulley and into the timing cover. Then for the additional 90 degrees we removed that small bolt to prevent potential damage to the timing cover, and used a counter hold tool (part number LRT-12-093) with two nuts and bolts. This is not a Mazda specialty tool and any spanner of similar design will do the job. Please note that during the final 90 degrees, all timing tools need to be removed. This included the cam locking plate, TDC pin, and crank pulley centering bolt to prevent damage :)
Goodjob guys , from qc_whiteegenn1 ;)
Thanks man!
that hole on the crank pulley basically times the crank pulley for you with the crank sensor no need to count the teeth on crank pulley.
Amazing video guys. Doing this today.. how long does it take for the high pressure fuel line to go down in pressure? No shrader valve so that makes me a little nervous. I'm trying to take the head off and redo valve seals and replace the head gasket. Do you guys have a video on that?
Thanks man! The pressure in the fuel rail will be pretty high after engine shutdown. You can relieve the pressure by just cracking the high pressure fuel line loose at the high pressure fuel pump. The fuel spray will not be substantial but safety glasses should be used. Unfortunately we have never removed the head on this engine, but if and when we do, we will definitely make a video ;)
@@WannabeTuners thanks guys! Another question for ya- do you think the turbo will have to completely be removed to get the head off? Or will taking out the manifold bolts do?
@@craigzilla100 No the turbo and manifold have to be completely removed imo. There are too many coolant and oil lines as well as a support bracket for the turbo. Even with all that removed, I don't think the exhaust piping will allow for the manifold to be pushed back far enough off the exhaust studs on the head
@@WannabeTuners good to know. I appreciate it guys. Your channel is valued!
@@craigzilla100 Thanks man we're happy it helps the community
Great video. But I’m just curious why you had to take off the fuel pump and the intake…
Fuel pump to put the timing tool in, and no need to remove the intake
Did I miss the part where you initially put the cam holding tool in? In the video you said something about having the cam lobes face eachother at a 45 degree angle
Yep you'll notice that when the camshaft locking plate is installed, if the cams are in the correct orientation, the cam lobes on the intake and exhaust cams will be facing each other at 45 degrees on cylinder 1
Great job guys! Would you mind if I put a link to this video into my timing series video? I'd love for people to have a resource for timing chain tension. Thanks!
Yeah for sure! Thanks man:)
Wannabe Tuners Thank you!
My idler pulley bolt was stripped/rounded before i even got to it. I'm assuming that it is a standard counter-clockwise to loosen it, correct? I dont want to be tightening it. And how would you recommend getting the bolt out at this point?
You could try a large vice grip plier, and yes it is loosened counter clockwise :)
Hey guys, I'm using your video as a guide, I'm almost done with the job but my paranoia is getting the better of me. I just did the final tightening of the crank bolt, and after rotating the engine a couple times, everything is in time. However at certain points the engine is a bit harder to manually turn over (I kept my spark plugs installed) and if I stop turning the crank at those points the resistance will make the crank turn back slightly counterclockwise. It's at these resistance points that the chain has a little more slack than at TDC, especially when the crank turns a bit counterclockwise. Is this normal or does it sounds like my tension is off?
If all the timing tools line back up after rotating the engine over 720 degrees, than you should be good
The resistance you feel is from the compression inside the cylinders on the compression stroke
@@WannabeTuners awesome, thanks so much for confirming.
When fitting the vvt on the camshaft does the position matter coz l didn't see you time it ?
Thanks
mashmallow The position does not matter from what I've read. Although it's good practice to mentally note the general position of the old one while at TDC, to install the new one in a similar position :)
How do you lock the crankshaft and what tool did you use to lock the cams. I’m trying this job on my mustang ecoboost
We purchased timing tools specific to this engine. If the ecoboost 2.3 liter doesn't use keyways, I'm sure the process will be nearly identical. You'd just have to find out where to buy the timing tools specific to your engine
Did you put the plate back Into the cam after you tightened up the cam bolts?
We snugged the intake and exhaust cam bolts with the plate installed while counterholding each cam to ensure both cams are synched to eachother. Then, for the final tightening we removed the plate and tightened while also counter holding. Once the crank pulley is torqued at TDC, we rotated the engine over 720 degrees and verified that all timing tools fit back in place. Any other questions let us know :)
When reusing the VVT sprocket. Does it have to be in the locked or unlocked position? It was recently replaced on this motor.
The VVT sprocket should already be in the locked position naturally when installing it. If it isn't, it is worn out and should be replaced
@@WannabeTuners Ok great, Thank you for your reply.
@@stevengrappy8664 You're welcome :)
Is vvti sprocket orientation critical?
When locking the timing in place.should the locating pin on vvt gear face up.or can it also show downwards.to the bottom
Good question. It actually doesn't matter which orientation the locking pin on the VVT actuator is in while set at TDC.
How hard is it to change a timing chain on a Mazda 3 2006 sedan 1 thru 10 ?
What else could I use to get the crankpully out? I'm having trouble trying to make make it the tool or find it online. Does anyone have any suggestions ?
I have a speed 3 2012.. im getting a rattle noise in the morning and then sometimes while im driving... 145.000 miles can it be the vvt actuator? Is completely stock.. aside from an kn drop in filter... Somedays it drives perfectly.. but then sometimes it doesn't drive bad but it doesnt give me full power when i step on it.. I don't feel the boost coming in strong....
It could be the vvt actuator. Are you getting a check engine light? Or any fault codes?
I just bought a new vvt gear for my mazda 3 and I noticed if I hold the cam and twist the gear with out a chain on it and the gear being bolt to the cam there seems to be some play in the gear not very much but it's there. Is this normal?
The VVT actuator has oil chambers inside it to advance valve timing, so the outer gear on the VVT can rotate slightly independently of the intake camshaft.
Where did y’all get the crank tool from?
When yall had to do this a second time was the slight slack from the chain causing a constant noise?
The only reason we did the job a second time was to ensure that we evened out the chain tension. It was more for peace of mind. It had no issues otherwise.
@@WannabeTuners ok thank you.
where did you get your cam shaft tool and TDC bolt?
Edgeautosport.com
Hey man I’m trying to replace my timing chain on my mps 6 , do you mind write a list of all the washers I will need please
Here is a link to where I bought my parts:edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem-vvt-replacement-kit-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/
I would recommend buying an additional friction washer for the exhaust sprocket as well:) The camshaft bolts can be reused but I replaced mine anyways. They also sell the timing tools. Hope that helps!
whats weirding me out is how does the crank with no key way or any other way to lock those crank sprockets on in one position not just slip thru the sprockets and go out of time? is it only the crank pulley tensions that is locking everything on the bottom together? trippy
There is no keyway on the crankshaft or the cams, the only thing that prevents everything from slipping out of time are the friction washers and tightening those bolts down to the correct torque spec. It is a very unique design that was probably intended to cut production costs. A lot of people rebuilding their engines with forged internals will get the crankshaft and sprockets keyed just in case, however the friction washer setup has been shown to handle quite a lot of power (from what I've read people have made up to 500 hp without a keyed crank). Imo if your rebuilding and forging the engine, it's better to get the crank keyed as there are no downsides to doing so :)
I'm new to Mazdas so I don't mean to sound dumb, but should I replace the VVT when I replace my timing chain?
If the job has never been done before, or you don't know the history on the car, I would replace it :)
What is the right orientation for the vvt sprocket .
What harm can it do if not in right position
Thank you
There is no specific orientation for the VVT actuator that I am aware of because oil encapsulates it evenly
Why would you replace the vvt spocket? Something get worn out after some Time ?
They are bad from factory on the mazda 2.3 MZR disi turbo. Mazda had a recall period to correct the the issue with a revised vvt actuator free of charge, but it is no longer covered and most people don't really look for recall info on their cars so there are a lot of these motors out there that still need the updated part.
Hey man, I was wondering what brand timing chain kit you bought, also an update on goes she's doing?
Hey man I ordered the timing chain kit from edgeautosport.com and there is an option to have them include the timing tools such as the crank shaft pin and cam locking plate. I think the brand name is 'Massive' timing tools. I would also recommend buying an additional camshaft bolt and friction washer for the exhaust cam in order to even out the chain tension when putting it back together. Also might as well replace the oil pump tensioner and guide since your in there. Hope that helps:)
Edit* It's called 'Massive Speed System' timing tool kit for the mazdaspeed 3/6
As for the car, it's running great! No issues whatsoever and is still in the tuning process. I'm hoping to settle at around 350whp/wtq when all is said and done for longevity
How did you guys get the crankshaft seal out
Did you have to use a seal puller
MrGov666 We just pryed it out slowly with a screw driver and lightly hammered the new one in. I'm sure there's a special tool for it, but it's not necessary. As long as it sits flush with the timing cover and doesn't leak :) just make sure the circular spring that runs along the inside doesn't fall out or it will for sure leak as there won't be any more tension.
How many miles does this car currently have on it? Looking at buying a Mazda speed 3 that literally is like new and has 120k miles recently boosted to 19 psi high pressure fuel pump and currently going through a tune. How many miles does your car currently have?
It currently has about 146,000 kms (91,000 miles) on it :)
Great Video Great instruction " But " i see some scary procedures 1ST i did not see you set the piston #1 at TDC nor did i see set the crankshaft counter balance weight up against the special stop bolt , and both cams set with a holding plate to make sure cyl #1 is at TDC and all four valves closed . secondly when setting the cam sprocket & VVT Actuator they both have marks that are to bet set at " 12 o'clock position " then you install the Timing chain tensioner then you tight both bolts to approx 55ft/lbs ( Cam are both being held by cams plate ) And always replace the crankshaft bolt because of Bolt stretch ( torques to 76 ft/bls then @ 87-93 degrees more )
sorry i did see the cams plate and the sst which holds the crankshaft counterweight
I did the same to a mazda engine only I put some oil on the cam sprockets bolt threads to ease with the torque!! was this a good idea no?
Tbh I wouldn't have because I've heard that this can mess with torque readings, but if the engine hasn't had any issues then it should be fine :)
@@WannabeTuners thanks guys hopefully it won’t have issues
Does the VVT actuator have to be in a certain position on the cam? How would you ensure a new actuator is turned to the correct position?
The position of the VVT actuator doesn't matter, as oil fully encapsulates it no matter what position it's installed in ;)
31:33 but didn't you say the vvt act. had to be oriented with the cap pointing upwards? Others say to just put it back same way old one came out, and mine had the aligned slots on the inside pointing straight up.
@@modeljetjuggernaut4864 The position of the stopper pin on the VVT actuator doesn't actually matter. Oil will enter it no matter which position it's in.
Great video! Where does one obtain the SSTs for this job?
Or I should ask, where did you obtain them?
Got them from Edgeautosport.com when buying the timing chain kit.
What tool did you guys use to counterhold the oil pump sprocket? I can't find anything...
We used an angle grinder wrench. Luckily the one we had was a perfect fit. A screwdriver can also be used by sticking it through one of the holes on the oil pump sprocket and counterholding it against the pump itself.
@@WannabeTuners Ok, i was considering using a screwdriver but was quite wary of it. I'll give it a go tomorrow. Thanks, i love that youre still replying to comments on this vid.
@@pleasedontkermitcrime3968 I've got the RUclips app on my phone so it's quite convenient lol. In terms of losening, using a screw driver with an impact gun makes it easy. But when tightening, it'll be beneficial to have someone else hold the screw driver when tightening it down with a ratchet. It's best to tighten this bolt to torque spec imo, but by hand has worked for us :)
Just wondering about the orientation of the 2 cam gears when putting on the chain? Like does it not matter since its not keyed so the cams and crank locked are timed but the gears spin free until locked with the friction locker? Or is there an orientation to the gears when at tdc?
The orientation of the cam sprockets does not matter, so long as the cams themselves are in the correct positions using the timing tools. Since there aren't any keyways, the goal is to even out the chain tension as much as possible before tightening the sprockets. The friction washers keep the cams and crankshaft in time with eachother.
@@WannabeTuners makes perfect sense. Thank you so much for the reply. Starting today wish me luck haha.
@@chrisdutcher9565 Good luck brother!
How many friction washer do I need on for each the Camshaft & Crankshaft when doing this job?
The crankshaft has a total of 3 friction washers, and the camshaft sprockets each have 1 friction washer
Where can I find the friction washers to get them
At 28:00 does it matter which way that Sprocket is put in? Or both sides are the same ?
Both sides are not the same for the crankshaft timing sprocket. The side with more lip faces out, away from the engine. The crank sprocket for the oil pump is the same on both sides and can be installed either way :)
What did you use to make that tool to hold the crank pulley?
We used a generic spanner and threaded in some nuts and bolts. I'm pretty sure they can be rented from certain auto stores. Check this thread out: www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/looks-like-autozone-now-can-rent-crank-213751/
Hey man this is exactly what we used (Part # LRT-12-093), but any sturdy spanner with holes that are 3 inches apart should work. We have close up pictures of it on our instagram page :)
Hey, I had mine worked one (friend did it), but its leaking oil from the side.. how hard is it to reseal it?
Do i need to just seal the side or redue the whole timing thing again?
If it's leaking from the timing cover you'll have to take the valve cover off, set the cams and crank to TDC, take the timing cover back off, and re-seal it.
Hello sir where did you buy a stretch bolt?? I cant find anywhere.
You can find everything on edgeautosport.com
IF I get like 2 seconds of rattle up top when starting the engine am i in need of an vvt cam ?
I would say yes. That's the early signs of a worn out vvt actuator.
Nice tutorial 👍 wonder why mazda chose to use friction washers instead of keying the crank and cams
I'm not sure. It's a similar design to the Ford ecoboost engines and I am pretty sure Ford owned a large part of Mazda at the time.
lol_ speed3 Yeah, bull Sh...with friction washers. My car is Ford Focus SE 2.0L 2010 the same!
Friction washer costs $18 each.
Why does timing chain have one mark that there is no timing chain and gears have a mark like as GM old block that has timing chain mark and gear with a dot mark? i am so confused
The engine uses friction washers only to keep the camshafts and crankshaft timed together. They need to be in the correct positions prior to tightening them down
So wait did y'all turn the crank bolt 180° degrees total??
75 ft lbs, then an additional 90 degrees
I'm having trouble with the HPFP, I think. Timing chain and everything has been replaced and the rattle is gone. Engine will start but I need to keep playing with the gas pedal or the engine dies. What could be the issue?
I would double check all electrical connections. Are there any stored fault codes?
Dude this video is going to save my cars life!! Just one question i know it might seem like a dumb question but I’m im not replacing the oil pump tensioner do I still have a mess with it for timing vvt?
Glad it's helping brother! I can't remember of the top of my head, but I think that in order to replace the crankshaft friction washer that sits behind the sprocket for the oil pump, the sprocket itself has to be removed. But in order to remove the sprocket, the oil pump chain and sprocket on the actual oil pump may have to come off. You can try and remove the oil pump chain tensioner and guide to see if you can just lift the chain off of the crankshaft sprocket and just slide it out :)
Thanks so much!!
@@bryanflores8720 You're welcome dude!
Me again trying to get the hpfp on but the spring keeps fight back
@@bryanflores8720 Try rotating the engine to have the lobe on the camshaft more flat, then evenly tighten it down. Carefully not to strip those small inverted torx bolts.
Hey, man. Would be the similar job for 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback?
Yes it's the same concept with the friction washers, although the timing tools may be different:)