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Mazdaspeed 3 - Blown Engine Teardown
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- Опубликовано: 24 окт 2019
- Today we disassemble the blown stock engine in the Mazdaspeed 3. Stay tuned for the assembly of the Built Engine. Enjoy the video! Please like, share, and subscribe :)
Instagram - @wannabe_tuners
Merch - teespring.com/stores/wannabet...
Mods at time of engine blowing:
1. DM PCV Plate w/ Dual Vented Cans
2. Cobb Accessport V3 (self tuned)
3. Aeromotive 325 LPH Fuel Pump
4. Bfg G-force Comp 2 All Seasons
5. Stratified Guardian Angel V3
6. Full Race Exhaust Manifold
7. Ngk One Step Colder Plugs
8. 6th Port Aux Fuel Injection
9. Corksport Intake Manifold
10. Jbr 88a Rear Motor Mount
11. Jbr 88a Trans Motor Mount
12. Jbr 80a Pass Motor Mount
13. Custom Radiator Ducting
14. Autotech HPFP Internals
15. Eibach Lowering Springs
16. Corksport Injector Seals
17. Jbr Egr Block Off Plate
18. Cpe Catless Downpipe
19. Cfm Oil Breather Cap
20. Jbr Raider's Air Damn
21. MST Suzuka Wheels
22. Koni Yellow Shocks
23. Gen 2 Valve Cover
24. CS 3.5 Inch Intake
25. Cobb 3 Port Ebcs
26. Fidanza Flywheel
27. Bnr S4 V3 Turbo
28. Jbr Under Route
29. Cobb Xle Bpv
30. AEM Gauges
31. Cnt Catback
32. Tr8 Fmic
33. Wot Box
![Jordan Adetunji - KEHLANI REMIX (feat. Kehlani) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EeJ8n5PxFGE/mqdefault.jpg)
You can use the ecoboost oil pump, water pump and crank. They are generally cheaper then the mazda one and exactly the same.
F2GZ-6600-A
4S4Z-8501-D
LB5Z-6303-A
Thank u very much!
Screen shotted
The water pump is trash. Plastic. DO NOT USE
@@WannabeTuners do you guys have an idea of what the charge would be from the machine shop? I'm tearing into mine, and want to send the block out, but dont know how much I'm going to spend
@@mortysmith5556 I will find out what the machine shop will be charging in terms of labor very soon and let u know:)
Love how yall keep it real throughout all your videos.
Keep them coming! I got a blown motor my self on my first gen speed. Great watch as always 👍
Blowing an engine sort of feels like right of passage lol
This is what I needed!! I will be sure too give you guys credit in my teardown tomorrow!
Good to see you guys back at it back in the lab
Great video can't wait to see
What's next
I own a white gen 1 too and motor loss compression last week so I’m going to go built. I will definitely keep up with more of your videos. Keep it up man!
Thanks man!
Been watching you guys for a few months. It sucks to see this happen to you guys too. Gonna go pull apart my speed6 next weekend and see where I blew up and what the damage is gonna be my first engine build can’t wait to see you guys put it back together
Thanks dude! All the best with yours as well!
Hope you all are doing well. Can't wait til you guys upload the new series. I want to do mine, along side by your videos.
Such an underated channel
Watching all theses vids before buying my speed so I know what to expect 😂😂😂♥️
Blown motor i what u should expect
knights of the fallen damn. Heart breaking truth. Got mine and it was 3 quarts low on oil after 200 hundred miles. So yeah it’s done ready for new 1
@@duramaxdad But I mean you shouldn't expect that if you aren't running high boost or if you have enough oil right? I mean lol
@@Dyl_Cam My car was already modded. It lost the engine around 135k miles. Beautiful car. Fun to drive. The modded power in a stick is a blast. Used Engines cost about $3500 at least installed and it’s pretty common for them to need an engine. Timing is hard to do as well. Stock should last longer but who wants that?
Nice, you guys already working on it, I love all your content is always helpful, it really sucks tho that happened to blow so unexpectedly
Thank You! The stock MZR DISI 2.3L engine can handle quite a bit, but eventually they just decide to retire
Yeah, a costly retirement, I'm also wanting to do very similar setup as urs I'm now buying parts and save em ,but now I'm really reconsidering doing the motor ,so it can basically just hit around 500hps without having any worries, trying to just do it all and do it right
@@raquielcross5757 That's a great idea! You'll save a lot of money in the long run if u build your current functioning engine
I was actually wondering a couple days ago when you guys were going to upload a teardown video. I'm looking forward to seeing this build! Keep up the great work, fellas!
Thanks man!
I dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb lost the login password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Bowie Samir instablaster :)
@Fox Chaim i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Fox Chaim It worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
You can reuse this block! It ought to run extra cool with the extra crankcase ventilation. Also makes for a great inspection port!!!
Haha yes I like that idea 🤣
2.5 block🔥💨
what block would you use for 2.5?
nvm found it! 2016 fusion motor. crazy a $500 motor!
2.3*
Damn it hurts to see your motor like this. I've been watching all your speed videos as I am on the road to full bolt-on and seeing this crushed me lol.
It definitely sets you back a little when the engine blows, but it's part of the game :)
Awesome video you guys are fantastic! Questions my 2010 Mazda speed with 180k needs a new turbo, you guys recommend where to buy a new one or used one with low km? Located in Ottawa. Thanks,
i reckon sort your crankcase pressure first that caused your turbo to blow
Will a speed 3 2013 engine fit a sedan 3??
At Dovah Kiin; what did you find, how many miles?
we're all made of piston dust : )
I should watch this video before bought my speed3 hahaha 🤣 now it’s the second time that I change my engine 😂😂😂 she starred running last week with the 3r engine on it
Should've 2.5 swapped 😉
@@iStryka too late bro hahaha if breaks again I’m not gonna fix it not more
looks like #2 either ran lean because of injector failing to provide enough fuel or the carbon build up caused enough hot spots to create a pre ign knock shattering that piston.
that said do an egr delete if its not necessary to pass emissions in your state and you can do a combustion chamber smoothing to prevent such situations.
ruclips.net/video/iejDWSQEsqI/видео.html jafromobile is your guy
Absolutely! Hotspots were most likely the issue from excess carbon build up, as all the injectors tested fine after they were recently serviced. The datalog showed high knock retard values for several cells before it blew. We've got a secondary EGR delete which keeps the EGR valve in place, but gets rid of the pipe going to the intake manifold :) I'm definitely thinking of polishing the combustion chamber in the head to prevent hot spots in the built engine.
Amazingly clean , how much power was it making or reving at before zoom zoom ka boomed ??
It let go around 4300 rpm or so, most likely due to the connecting rod in cylinder 2 being slightly fractured from all the back to back pulls. It put down 405 whp and 350 lb ft on the pull prior. We have a video of it happening which is quite traumatic lol.
Nice video man I’m in the mechanical world (HVAC Tech) and I love seeing tear downs like these .. especially since I have a Mazda CX-7 lol btw are one of you guys hvac techs? I saw the van and the bucket full of scrap copper lol
Haha thanks man! My brother is actually in the HVAC field
Holy shit I’ve missed this video the entire time! Sorry guys. Excellent video. I just started it, so let’s see what you guys get into
Aside from the environmental issues, I liked the video. Good stuff. How long did it take to tear it apart?
Thanks, it took just a few hours
Question... Same thing happened to my 2nd gen, but I cant find a 2nd gen complete engine ive only found the 1st gen. I need the car running, would it be ok to throw in a 1st gen?
Absolutely would work
hi WT sorry to see your mishap ,not good , you lad`s put in a lot of time and effort to make the car good and some good vid`s for all Mazda owner`s . if your going for big HP again best going FORGED and get a keyway cut in the crank
We'd like to get the crank keyed for sure! We're most likely going to go with a 0.5 mm overbore for this build
Where are you getting the built motor from ?
We're getting a used CX7 long block inspected and machined locally at a place called Competition Automotive
Where do u get the timing chain kit from? I live in Australia
Edgeautosport.com :)
Hi, what do you think about removing the balancing shafts?
From what I've read it isn't recommended or even necessary on a stock engine. If building the engine and upgrading to ARP 2000 main studs, it is necessary, as the balance shaft assembly does not clear the protrusion of the studs ;)
Been long time
"Zoom zoom boom"
🤣
My life.
Pls help, i got new pcv valve, new bnr s1 turbo but i still have bad oil consumption, are my rings bad??
It's very possible. The stock pistons in these are notorious for having cracked ringlands. I would start with a compression test with the engine hot.
Wondering why there is a Fomoco logo on the engine block? Since it's a mazda design engine. Did Ford make these engine blocks?
These were made during a time when Ford owned a large chunk of Mazda, but I'm not sure as to whether the actual design was from Ford or Mazda
Knock knock... (who's there?) piston number 2 like its meee. Lol , damn man some carnage alright , hope to see this beast back harder then every hopefuly she already is
Thanks dude
@@WannabeTuners I had to edit that was confused on the piston order lmao , noworries man cant wait to get through all of this so I can watch the rebuild 💙
@@PH-x We're working slowly on getting the engine build videos for both the speed 3 and jetta completed. Should hopefully have them ready sooner than later if time permits lol
@@WannabeTuners hellzyeah there gonna be some more rad content defo going to check out both builds over the next week or so epic man keep up the good work guys yall are awesome
@@PH-x Thanks so much for the kind words man :)
Blew the piston rings, non compressible fluid enters cylinder, throws rod through block?
It's hard to know for sure, but it looks like the connecting rod in cylinder 2 failed first. What followed was pure destruction lol
When you spoke about the turbo oil line, you mentioned there is no filter - it the main engine filter not in line with it? Why do you say that line gets clogged?
I've seen on some other platforms that there is a small pre-filter in behind the banjo bolt where the turbo oil feed line exits the block. This filter was not present in my engine. I think that the purpose of those pre-filters is to prevent premature wear of the turbos bearings from engine break in material. That being said, I had never had any issues with my turbos bearing system getting worn out, even back when I was still on the stock turbo.
How many miles on this 3 before it blew?
Right around 158,000 km's (98,000 miles)
Thanks for this. Interesting to see. Also, it seems to defeat the purpose of an EGR when it gets the exhaust from only one cylinder. Yes?
Egr is for reducing reactive cylinder volume. It effectively reduces the displacement of the engine under specific conditions like highway cruising to save gas. Similar idea for cylinder deactivation in v8s. A cylinder always pulls a specific volume and you need to keep fuel ratios within limits or engine damage will occur. By filling the cylinder with spent exhaust gas which is no oxygen content, you can inject less fuel safely.
So it doesnt matter how many cylinders you pull from.
@@ryandormann9621 This^ and by having spent exhaust gasses in the cylinders, it also reduces heat which in turn reduces NOX emissions
@@ryandormann9621 then why not all cylinders and not just one?
@@_datapoint once you satisfy the systems percentage of exhaust in the intake air, it doesnt make sense to intake any more per engine cycle. They extract exhaust from 1 cyl to feed the whole system.
@@ryandormann9621 It is just now occurring to me that the exhaust diverted by the EGR goes to all cylinders. And the computer knows what the exhaust/fuel/air ratio should be. There has got to be a less oily and intrusive way to meet emission standards. Thanks for the feed back.
That was so sad to watch. But yeah, it's been informative. Glad that the car got a new rebuilt engine.
We’re these stock rods? Love your vids by the way!!!
Thanks man! Yep these were stock rods. The engine was completely stock.
What was the reason of the piston failure? What are your thoughts? I have same engine but in a speed 6. I am also thinking of going to add some mods such as hpfp, corksport IM (to avoid unbalanced flow and possible failure of 3rd cyl) and light tune. Cheers and keep up the good work
I think the rod failed first which then destroyed the piston. I think the WOT box ignition cut feature being used as a rev limiter stretched or fractured the rod, causing it to fail under moderate load. The WOT box however is required when utilizing aux fuel to prevent a lean burn. The moral of the story is that a stock block can handle abuse, just not a lot. It's better to build your engine if u intend on upgrading the turbo imo, because it WILL eventually blow :)
@@WannabeTuners I mean I've seen plenty of meth injected mps with 385whp running reliably on pump, and alot go reliably with even more power on e85, alot of people say 400whp is limit, but I think it's a tad bit high and you definately need e85
@@dallasmellsop5488 Absolutely, with the stock block it's not if it will will blow, but when lol
If that build-up on the valves is white, you were running super lean. Same thing happened to my head. Still have the valves if you want to see a picture of them. Heating it up with propane torch will make it flake off but don't reuse them.
In the video you can see just how thick the layering is on the faces of the exhaust valves. Only cylinder two appears white so it's highly possible that it was running lean for some reason. We recently had all 8 direct injectors from both the blown and used CX7 engine serviced and flow matched, so it's hard to say if the cylinder 2 injector was the cause of a potentially lean mixture since all injectors were tested and verified to be working. So the investigation continues lol
@@WannabeTuners Why target an 11.5 AFR when a stock speed3 will see AFR's in the 9s at WOT with just 93OCT?
@@corderomccargo4500The car was running 94 octane pump gas mixed with 3 gallons of in tank methanol when it blew, so octane should not have been an issue. An 11.5:1 AFR is still quite rich, and has proven to provide a nice balance between knock prevention and power production. The only reason the stock tune targets 9:1 is because the manufacturer doesn't want the engine to blow if low octane fuel is put into the tank. The manufacturer has to make sure the engine will last in many situations. When tuning, we are making sure we are running sufficient octane for what we are trying to achieve. It's important to keep in mind that pump gas alone will always be knock limited in most cases. Hence the reason for running a more rich AFR to try and use cylinder cooling to negate potential detonation.
Any update on what’s going on ??
Yep just waiting for all the machine work to be completed at the machine shop. Then we shall put the engine together, and install it into the car, and aim for 450 whp with the BNR S4 :)
How much PSI and HP were you pushing on dyno when it blew up ?
18 psi tapered to 24 psi at 6700 rpm. It blew up in the mid rpm range indicating that it was already hurt.
Wannabe Tuners about how much power do u think you were making? and how many kms were you at when this happened?
@@TheRexPerkins Over the course of 4 years it was making anywhere from 330 whp to 380 whp on a completely stock engine ;)
The white could be molten metal. The black is because its direct injection and isnt able to clean the system of contaminants
huy duds! i really miss u :c i need more videos!
Thanks for the support man! We are looking forward to having more content for the channel very soon
How did it blow?
Cylinder 2 connecting rod let go
Stock internals?
Yes
Wnere you get the motor..just blew my speed 3 gen 2 😊
Dynos are one of the best tools to blow up engines... that engine would have lived a long and happy life without going to the edge.
The stock engines tend to be on borrowed time at these power levels
Same thing happend to me, cyl 4! I am wondering, is there some ford engine block that i could use? I understood its the same, but have not figured out exatly what block would be best, anyone know? Would it work using mazda 2.3 non turbo block? Very interesting video, watched the rebuild too.
It says FOMOCO on it because during the time that these cars were made, Ford owned a portion of Mazda. I do not believe that the MZR DISI is the same as any of the other Ford engines, I could be wrong though. When in doubt, just source another MZR block, unless you want to change it up a bit and go a little custom ;)
@@WannabeTuners Did some more studying online, it seems the block in question that could be used is the Ford Duratec 25, 2.5 liter. Would be amazing if everything else from the mazda is bolt on, some are saying it does fit. The new mazdaspeed3, has a 2.5 liter engine.
@@chrismullin3986 I would contact Speed Perf6rmanc3 and ask them about it. I know they offer a 2.5 liter engine for the Mazdaspeeds ;)
some ppl say cx-7 restyling one has a better block. im gonna make around 400hp with methanos on a stock engine soon.. already afraid of wut might gonna happen to my ms6..
just brought a 3 with a blown motor that about the same thing i wonder what causes it? i dont like the vvt spring cap that alway snaps off...
i wonder if lost of oil pressure for some odd reason releasing the vvt gear causing the piston to hit the valve?
@@jaydaksrules5316 The stock rods and pistons in these engines can only handle so much. Repeated abuse will eventually cause the rods to stretch and possibly fracture. It's not uncommon to have a rod let go while cruising at moderate load due to it already being hurt
@@WannabeTuners sounds about right the tow truck guy told me he was just thrashing it everyday plus it 300ks on it
@@WannabeTuners i still dont like that vvt throwing up metal into in motor
@@jaydaksrules5316 If I'm not mistaken the newer VVT actuators are heat treated in the area where they commonly break to try and prevent it, but of course having metal in unwanted areas of the engine is never good, especially if it makes it past the oil pick up tube screen. I think most broken VVT stoppers just make there way down to the oil pan and stay there.
Pistons shatter like that if the rings butt. I don't think the rod went out first. I also think that AFR was too lean. A stock speed3 will see an AFR of ~9 on 93OCT.
9s too rich..high 10s to mid 11s is idea
@@jb6574 You are correct. After talking about it with a friend, I realized this lol. He was running lean at some point though, according to the build up on the exhaust valves.
Few years ago I have the same.. but on 3rd cylinder..
Yeah cylinder 3 seems to be a common problem cylinder from what I've read. From what I remember it has something to do with it running leaner than the other cylinders due to the stock intake manifold design. Even the exhaust manifold doesn't flow evenly at all.
@@WannabeTuners Yes exactly..
Who is building the engine? Is that a canadian builder? I would highly rec jordan at overspeed motorsports. But living in canada not sure he would be the most cost effective option because of customs and stuff.
We have a working used long block from a CX7 with about 160,000 km's on it which will be getting the treatment locally at Competition Automotive. We've also heard great things about Overspeed, but like u said, being in Canada raises the cost significantly
When are you guys planning on getting this thing back on the road??
We've been so busy with life that it's been taking a lot longer than we wanted, but it's nearly complete. Hopefully in the next two to three weeks we'll be able to start it up :)
@@WannabeTuners awesome! Looking for some new content from you guys. It's been too long.
@@HoUsEoFcAtS78 Thanks man! We're looking forward to it as well
Betcha the crank shaft is bullet proof. Where did the oil squirter go on cylinder 2?
The oil squirter got hit by the rod and or piston material when it let go. Crankshafts in these engines don't seem to be an issue. They are solid!
Any updates on this
We're back up and running, just sorting out a few little kinks
is this going to be ready for the spring?
Yep that's the plan :)
@@WannabeTuners hopefully see you out at tmp hoping to get a mazda day going in the spring
@@manofevil5866 That would be great dude!
What’s up with the motor? Still rebuilding it or gave up?
Hey thanks for asking :) The car is doing pretty good. We're currently sorting out a small coolant leak before we start turning the boost up. Engine build video will be up very soon!
Wannabe Tuners oh thank god. Can’t wait to see the video. You guys did a great job with this one
Zoom - zoom, no boom!
Sorry about your blown motor :(
I'm a fellow Canadian and own a 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 and was wondering if you run with an OCC. I've had a Damond Motorsports catch can waiting to be installed for a couple years, but I'm a bit nervous to do so as I daily drive the car year round. I had an e46 BMW 330i and its stock air oil separator (which is external to the engine) ended up freezing off and I blew my valve cover gasket and caused a serious repair.
Given the design of a catch can is very similar to an AOS, I've been nervous about installing due to freeze off issues. What are your thoughts on this?
I do run a Damond Motorsports oil catch catch, but I don't drive the car in the winter. The contents inside can and will freeze, trapping a large amount of crankcase pressure. I think in your case it's better to just clean the intake valves every 60,000 km's or so. If u want to reduce crankcase pressure, run a Speed Perf6rmanc3 oil breather cap ;)
@@WannabeTuners Thank you very much sir! The risk just isn't worth it to me...I will see if I can sell my catch can then.
I'm guessing you can just put the breathing oil cap on without requiring a tune.
@@duey1083 The SP63 Oil Breather Cap is only compatible with a GEN 2 valve cover, and a retune is not necessary :)
@@WannabeTuners I've been daily driving mine in the winter. Recently installed an occ. Back in December my oil filter blew off and I pulled over and turned off the car (hoping I saved it). Towed it home and did an oil change. When I started it up, it again blew off. Do you think having the occ installed during the winter months could be the source of my issue?
@@WannabeTuners Also, after installing the occ, I only drove it for about 150miles, and the occ is filled about half way. When I did the oil change and started it again, and the oil filter flew off again, the occ is now full. In that short time of running it I'm not sure what's wrong.
That is aluminium from the top of the piston. piston went first then rod. looks like it lost fuel pressure.
How many HP did you have at the moment of blow off engine?
Just over 400 whp ruclips.net/video/PaKim7AC3kM/видео.html
@@WannabeTuners do you think that 320hp is safe for this motor?
@@ivanborruel As long as the car is tuned properly, these engine can handle 320 whp no problem
@@WannabeTuners I bought a 2007 MS3 from a car auction, it has front mount intercooler, boost controller, a different waste gate, intake, headers, downpipe, launch control and I think that it has a tune because also it has flat foot shifting I don't know how many HP it has, I'm just guessing
are you guys deleting the balance shaft?
Yes we are! We're also going to get our machine shop to balance the crankshaft to hopefully negate some of the vibrations, although based on a lot of reading, the vibes are not too bad. I guess we'll have to find out for ourselves.
@@WannabeTuners my vibes were noticeable but lowered the duro on my mounts and it was night and day.
@@Theromanticrejeck Oh nice glad to hear! I've been running the JBR trilogy so it's been super stiff. I'm hoping the Damond Motorsport side mounts paired with the Corksport Stage 2 RMM will keep vibes to a minimum with their unique designs.
@@WannabeTuners that is my exact setup now! 100% do it.
@@Theromanticrejeck Oh awesome!
I have 2 brand new Mazda OEM DISI ASSEMBLED HEADS (MINUS CAMSHAFTS AND GEAR) for your Mazda 3 DISI if your interested
It’s not a bad engine, but many people do all kinds of upgrade and never upgrade the fuel pump internals. That’s why the blow up
Oh yeah for sure! It's not worth it to turn the boost up even just a little, until the high pressure fuel pump internals have been upgraded ;)
Hello friend, greetings from
Colombia. I bought a CX7 2.3 Turbo and did not realize that the engine had overheated. The mechanic says that the cylinder head and block are warped by the heat and that it is best to change the entire engine.
I have searched a lot and I cannot find it in my country, is it possible to brush these parts so that they are flat again? They have told me that being made of aluminum it is not possible, others say yes ... What do you think?
I think a good idea would be to send the cylinder head and block to a local reputable machine shop and get them to inspect them. They might be able to resurface them and verify that both are completely flat :)
@@WannabeTuners Thank you very much friend, I hope some store can fix the parts.
@@BrayanLopez23 Me too man!
Zoom zoom boom boom lol
When is this update comin?
Give or take a few months. The machine shop is almost done, and Spring is fast approaching
@@WannabeTuners 10-4
Well what comes with direct injection engines is your supposed to clean your own valves. Since the top of the valve can’t get cleaned which causes the valve not to seat properly. And cause what happened to your speed.
The top side of the intake valves get carboned up over time with most if not all DI engines, but what we found concerning was the thick layer of hardened material that was built up on the faces of the exhaust valves within the actual combustion chamber. The CX7 engine we took apart to get machined did not have this thick layer, but had roughly the same mileage as our blown engine.
Ouch.... just ouch.
2.5 bottem end is the way to go they're good for 500hp just add ring gap . Mazda 6 GH 2008-2012
Mazda 3 sp25 2009-2013
That's interesting, good to know
Damn it is a ford engine, saw the fomoco
When i saw that I was like “aaww damn ford” 😂
Yep they were partnered with Ford for a long time!
It's a Mazda engine. Ford just footed the bill since, at the time, Ford had a big interest in Mazda.
@@corderomccargo4500 lol its a ford engine chilll its a good engine
Ford purchased the design from mazda let get it strait the mazda came first in 2004 or 2006 and then the Ford got the engine so no its not a ford design or engine its a mazda 2.3l disi(direct ignition spark injection)
vvt(variable valve timing) dohc(dual overhead cam) engine designed by mazda the best engineers in the world still changing the game in 2020 and pioneering f1 compression ratios in their street cars for years now. Recently creating a gas engine that runs on compression for ignition they are not ford engines in a mazda that will never happen, mazda engine in a ford....now that has happened and is still happening....the only way to buy this engine post 2013 jdm is to buy a ford focus st I believe is the trim level, dont know don't care because I love my 2013 mazdaspeed
That is the piston head melting itself to the valve. Did you have butt flu this episode?
Did you look at your data logs after the blowup? What did the AFRs look like? Lean?
Kinda looks like your charge ignited on the compression stroke.
Oh yes, if I hold it in for too long I may get sent into orbit lol. Yep we did look at the datalogs. The AFR was right on target at about 11.5:1, and the tune wasn't much different to what I had been running for several years in terms of timing and boost. I think the engine was just tired and weakened from back to back runs. Smashing that hard WOT box rev limiter over and over may have hurt cylinder 2's connecting rod, as that is what appears to have failed.
@@WannabeTuners you mention meth in your webisodes, do you run 100% meth? Or are you adding it to pump gas for to increase your octane? I'm just teasing, I watched the rebuild webisode and you were letting the farts free. 🤣🤘🖖
@@leolldankology They definitely belong in the wild that's for sure haha. Usually I mix 2 to 3 gallons of 100% methyl hydrate (aka methanol) to a full tank of 94 octane pump gas for more octane. Since we don't have E85 in our area, methanol is an easy alternative, and in low concentrations it doesn't pose any issues. I've been running in tank meth for almost 5 years now and my HPFP wasn't even gunky when we cleaned it out after the engine blew (probably because of such low concentrations). I may even try to run 4 gallons per tank if I feel the need at some point 😆
@@WannabeTuners why not run a meth/water injection kit with like a 60/40 mixture? I was reading some of the comments and I also think that you possibly had hot spots which caused pre-ignition on the compression stroke. The pieces of the connecting rod looks like it snapped due to it being compressed. Does your turbo sit behind cyl 2 n 3?
@@leolldankology I believe the turbine housing sits behind cylinders 2 and 3 (I would have to take a closer look), but I highly doubt that positioning of the turbo had anything to do with the engine blowing. It blew at around 4500 RPM making 320 ft lbs, and since the datalogs looked good, I'm thinking that it was just it's time. Methanol injection is always a good way to increase octane, but in my case I'm running 6th port injection, and I like to fill up only 1 tank. I did have a boost switched meth injection kit a while back on the stock turbo, but had to remove it because I had the pump and reservoir mounted behind the front bumper, which got in the way when I went to a front mount intercooler setup. If I can't get enough octane with in tank meth (which I doubt), I may just re-install the meth kit and run a small nozzle again.
How's everything going lads? Any more progress on the beast?
Hey very good thanks! We're just waiting on the keyed crankshaft, and for the weather to warm up. We'd like to start assembling the engine by April :)
@@WannabeTuners Great to hear! Keep up the good work
@@jasonc2948 Thanks man!
Aufregend
Ok what happen.....the more heat the piston ring gap got smaller ....on that last pull the ring gap went to zero ...pulls head off part of the piston ....the rest is after effect.... hopefully on your rebuild has larger gap ...those pistons you order , they know your running turbocharger ? This is very important..... doesn't matter if you have all the kick ass parts..if that gap is too small it will happen again . Hopefully those pistons an rings are matched to the bore.
Cylinder#2 makes me cringe.
just yesterday my gen 1 started misfiring and now cylinder#2 has 0 compression..😔 not sure what I'm gonna do yet.
Take your time and get it built! My guess is that it slipped out of time and the cylinder two piston hit the valves
@@WannabeTuners thanks for that. I'm gonna take off the valve cover today and check it out.
So it's an interference engine then? I'm very new to this platform. Only got the car about a month now. Was a fun month.
I'm more used to the 4g63 engine.
@@rabbon-ithegenesis7169 Yeah dude, check the VVT and chain. If it's super loose, bent valves on cylinder 2 are a possibility. You could then do a leak down test on cylinder 2 to see if air is escaping significantly from the valves by listening for air escaping on the intake side.
@@rabbon-ithegenesis7169 Oh nice, I'm a huge fan of the 4G63, and yep, the MZR 2.3 DISI is an interference engine :)
Welcome to the MS3 world lol.
Unfortunately... The carbon build up is a normal thing for our cars. It's a part of maintenance that isn't brought up much. If you have any mods done, you should clean the ports every 50,000-ish miles.
Did mine at 55k and they were pretty bad.
What ports are you talking about
Yeah dirty intake valves are inherent to most DI engines, but that thick hard layering on the faces of the exhaust valves seems a little odd
@@WannabeTuners test that injector to see if it clogged or something
Im pretty sure I have the most blown speed motors for most of you guys currently have 3
Wow how come so many?
My personal cars motor blew up and I bought one with a blown motor just to fix up and the other car I bought as a parts car had a blown motor
@@davidknelsen6257 it seems to be really common on these motors. Im on my second one.
Not sure why your exhaust valves have carbon build up on the faces. When my disi engine blew up and it was torn down, I couldn't see any buildup like that.
Mine had the same build up at 155k.
Check my thread and you can see all of that.
www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/johnnytightlips-build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-4#post-63399
Thanks for the link:) I wonder if it has something to do with running and in tank methanol mix
@@WannabeTuners I never ran meth and only did e30 for a couple hundred miles before zzb. Might just be the gas itself.
@@JackBurton871 Yeah maybe eh. I wonder if ceramic coating the combustion chamber, as many engine builders do, will reduce this type of build up
@@WannabeTuners Maybe, I pretty much followed the current formula to build mine and didn't do anything too crazy like that. Those little things can add up fast and you have to balance cost to what's worth it for your goals and plans.
Yo are you guys still active?
Hey man we sure are! Just been busy getting the car sorted :)
Guys are you coming back?
We sure are!
@@WannabeTuners When?!?!?!?!?
@@sentryeldefiant7569 We're about half-way done editing the engine build videos for both the Speed 3 and Jetta 2.0T, should be very soon ;)
There are a lot of great how to's on exactly what you need to do on the forum. If you have any questions you can PM me on there too. I created them while doing my build thread.
www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?forums/mazdaspeed-3-how-to.109/
I still have my blown engine in my
Garage just setting
What about the actual car? Did you put a new engine in it?
Wannabe Tuners yeah I put the new engine and the car runs fine ,I have a Block I want to build... I just don’t have the money to do it .. I guess I’ll do it in do time.
Wannabe Tuners your Preparing me to build my engine Lol
@@RedClutch22_ Awesome man, that's good to hear!
Where is my assembly video!
Unfortunately due to the Covid-19 it may be delayed just a bit, but luckily the machine shop has finished with our job, so it's just a matter of finding time to start the assembly :)
Just bought a mazdaspeed 3 gen 1 mica blue. It smokes white smoke
Sounds like it has an addiction of some kind.
MS3 VERYTHING lol it’s sitting right now. Gonna fix it up in the summer.
There should be plenty of content on the web for you to check out, and will help you. I've owned mine for a year, and just ran into my most major issue. But with a little help from these guys I should be back on the road soon
MS3 VERYTHING Ayy that’s what I’m talking about. I’ve been looking on the mazdaspeed 3 forums for what mods to do first and weak points of the mazdaspeed. My Mazda has been modified so I have no idea what is going on
@@kooua8118 i would go based on how many miles you have. Mine has 170k. I bought mine with 158k and instantly put money into modding it. Not even thinking of what could go wrong. These are very sensitive to tunes also. Before modding it, do some data logging on an access port, send it to a tuner and have him look at what needs done mechanically. You dont want to "zoom zoom boom" like almost everyone does in these.
Make sure you guy DO NOT reuse the oil cooler housing, Apparently they get Contaminated with oil very easily in the event of zzb
Thanks for the heads up eh!
I got a shit tone of parts if you need any. oil pan, etc
Thanks man! We've already got a used running CX7 long block currently being machined at a local engine builder
@@WannabeTuners its kinda funny that yours just blew up and mine just got running last night. if you need and parts at all. literally and engine part, just dm me: ms3_build
@@logantenhundfeld8827 Sounds good man, I appreciate it :)
Melted aluminum on the valves I’m guessing
I wish I knew haha. I'm wondering if maybe it was just oil that caked onto the valves when it blew. The exhaust valves would have been super hot during a pull.
Yea could be did the rod just fail and that’s what made it blew
@@KalebBauermk7 I think the rod stretched causing it to shear as soon as the engine started generating torque
@@WannabeTuners YOUR MOTOR was burning oil.the one with more build up,was burning more oil then the rest .imo
@@smtyson1650 It's quite possible, but my compression and leakdown numbers were solid, and oil consumption from the engine was virtually non existent (aside from the turbo). I'm pretty sure it all happened right when the engine blew, when large amounts of oil hit scorching hot exhaust valves. The valves with the most buildup were on cylinder two, where the piston was in pieces allowing the most amount of oil to get into that combustion chamber. It's very interesting to dissect and try to understand the process of how it blew. It's definitely a unique experience as it's not every day that we blow an engine ;)
This sucks that it happens this way
Yeah it gets messy real quick, my advice is to go built before it happens ;)
Stock rods go around 400 TQ. You bent a rod and the engine blew.
They were on 350wtq but they were running pump gas and he did the tube himself (he's been doing it for years)
94 octane pump, with 3 gallons of in tank methanol at the time :)
Fordmoco? Welp theres your problem right there.. simple diagnosis!
Lol yes sir!
Wannabe Tuners 🤣🤣 anyway i enjoyed the video bud. Liked and subscribed. Keep up the good work my friend.
@@marksmith-po7wl Thanks a lot dude :)
Nice video! I recently did one too! Check it out if you have time.
Oh nice!
Apparently you can use a 2.5 block from a Ford fusion they are stronger than the speed block plus bigger pistons
If the 2.5 Ford Fusion block is anything like the MZR L5 block they're not as strong as the DISI turbo 2.3 as they don't have the forged steel crank of the L3T. The 2.5 has a cast crank.
All options are worth looking into, but at this point for us the most cost effective way to go is to simply get our used CX7 long block built with a 0.5 mm over bore, and 88 mm forged pistons and rods ;)
Ya I currently have a cx7 motor in my car I guy close to me does a lot of the 2.5 swaps
@@davidknelsen6257 the 2.5 isn't really a performance motor, it's a grocery getter with a nice flat torque curve. The cast crank combined with the overly undersquare design of the 2.5 and the fact that the L3T DISI block is generally cast a little better where it counts makes the 2.3 the better choice.
Ok might be but the guy said it makes a little more torque and hp
If this motor was having 4K km oil changes - why did it blow up? You would expect almost no wear!
I suspect rod failure was the primary culprit
@@WannabeTuners Makes sense - OEM rods must already be on the limit... good to know.
Did you have to re-balance the crank when you upgraded the rods? Or are the new rods the same weight as OEM rods?
@pingpong9656 My machine shop said there was no need to balance the rotating assembly. I can't remember why though.
What’s going on? You guys haven’t uploaded in 9 months.
Rod failure is %90 of the time , thats why the 2.5 Block is a much better option there rods are monsters ,
That's really interesting. Where can I read about this info?
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