500whp is waaaaaay underrated. The stock flange may be your limitation. These are the same ones in the Borg Warner EFR turbo kits with a T2.5 flange and flow a good deal more. Many folks use these same manifolds for 700+ at the wheels, too. They truly are a beautiful piece, and the lifetime warranty is amazing.
You should consider WMI instead of 5th/6th port. With 6th port you will have indeed more fuel but you will be limited by the octane. Adding WMI has a ton of benefits: - increases the octane of the mix so allows for significantly more timing (at least 5-6 degrees across the board compared to 93-94OCT fuel), - of course adds additional fuel which you need; - the water in the mix will cool down quite a lot the cylinders and pistons during the exhaust cycle, and this is something you really want with the stock brittle pistons but not only with those, - also the water in the mix will break the carbon deposits on the pistons crown which will minimize the chances to have hot spots during high rpm/rich AFRs runs (with onyl 5th/6th port you will end up with a lot of these deposits due to the nature of the burn), - the mix itself will keep the intake valves clean which will allow you to continue running an EGR which has a positive impact in fuel economy when driving normally, as well as emissions (not that it matters that much now that you're catless). For 400whp I think a 900-1200cc/min nozzle will do.
I agree 100% and I do have one. We recently had to take it out when we installed the Fmic because the piping would get in the way of the WMI pump and reservoir, so it's just as matter of relocating the kit to the trunk. The thing I like about the 6th port kit is it's accuracy, and that I can run about 2 gallons of in tank methanol in the gas tank and still get the octane I need. We will see how it all plays out. I may end up just re installing the WMI kit and using a bigger nozzle for a little extra fuel because it seems simpler at this point. Thanks for the advice :)
Hey guys, very good step-by-step DIY video. Btw, just a tip, cut 2 vacuum hoses of the required hose dia. and length, and sleeve them over the adjustable needle nose locking pliers' teeth. This way you’ll protect the coolant hose from being cut/damage by the adjustable needle nose’s teeth.
Found your channel a couple of months ago and been watching ever since, great stuff. I had been looking into the steps for upgrading my 2012 MS3 and what you have done pretty much is what the road map I planned on following. Mine's daily driven also so I'm not looking to go past stock block capabilities any time soon. Keep up the great work and videos you guys put out.
For sure man! I've gotta dial in a nice tune once it warms up and boost creep weather goes away (I've had to limit maximum throttle to a staggering 35% to avoid maxing out the injectors because porting the internal wastegate didn't help much. You should totally get one since you've got the CS turbo. There really aren't any drawbacks to an upgraded exhaust manifold. Better more refined sound, better flow, retains EGR, and less heat trapped inside the cylinders which reduces the potential for pre ignition and knock! :D
I've out grown engine swap....as for exhaust, cat-con is not compulsory for private registered petrol vehicle and you need at least a back box and it's road legal in major cities across South East Asia.
So if I don’t have a turbo I just take off the heat shields and the manifold? I’m trying to change my exhaust manifold gasket btw and I’m not a mechanic I’m just trying to learn and save a couple bucks
Hey guys if you could remember that area in your exhaust video near the end with the trailers against the building? Would you make an exhaust video so we can hear the difference in sound because I've been seriously considering this upgrade but I love the unequal length header sound. Thanks so much guys for you vids. Love'em!
fivef00tgiant Thanks man! When we make that video we will pretty much mimic the last exhaust video we made, so you can get a good idea of how the current exhaust setup sounds in comparison to the previous one :)
Looking to upgrade to a BNR S3 this spring from the stock K04, which has close to 200,000 kms on it (2011 Mazdaspeed 3). I'll be adding a cPE catted downpipe at the same. Is is possible to drop the turbo and slide the BNR S3 from below the car if the downpipe is out of the way? Or is it necessary to remove the exhaust manifold and maneuver the turbo from the top of the engine bay? Any issue with the exhaust manifold studs breaking in the head? Or are these typically not too bad?
From what we remember, removing the exhaust manifold and taking the turbo out from the top is the only way. We thought about trying it from the bottom but there's just no room. The studs are pretty good actually, they don't usually seize, just make sure the socket is on there flush when cracking them loose, and use penetrating fluid to your advantage. Also, make sure you place some masking tape on the oil feed and drain holes of the turbo to prevent dirt from getting inside during the install :)
Thank you so much for your response! I really appreciate the tips. I noticed in your install video that you had purchased a new exhaust manifold gasket. Did you end up replacing it or keep the original one? What did you guys end up doing with some of the stuck manifold to turbo or turbo to downpipe studs? I guess breaking them isn't probably the worst thing in the world since the turbo will be replaced. But any issues with rounding the nuts? Did the coolant crush washers come with the BNR or did you pick them up from the dealership. I'll be purchasing from the dealership: coolant line crush washers, turbo nuts (manifold and downpipe), oil feed and return gaskets. I'll also purchase an aftermarket after cat O2 sensor as I have read that to be a potential issue.
@@duey1083 You can save money on skipping the secondary O2 sensor unless it's causing a fault. The BNR turbos come with coolant crush washers, oil feed washers, oil return gaskets (although they're paper, so we ordered OEM), and turbo to manifold / turbo to downpipe gaskets. I would just buy OEM oil return gaskets from Edgeautosport as I've heard stories of the paper ones leaking. If u want to play it safe just order all OEM oil and coolant gaskets / washers from Edge. As for the exhaust manifold to head gasket, it is a tad expensive, but we went ahead and replaced it when installing the BNR S4 turbo. We reused it when installing the Full Race Manifold without issue. The BNR turbos also come with studs. I would call BNR and double check because we installed the S4 3 years ago. Not sure if anything has changed since then ;)
@@WannabeTuners Hey! I hope you don't mind another question. I finally ordered the cPE catted downpipe through Stratified in BC. Hoping to tackle installation in 3 weeks. Do you see any harm in using and air impact gun for the turbo-DP studs? What about the O2 sensor? Obviously copious amounts of PB blaster will be used and I'll use a hose clamp on the sensor socket to keep it from spreading. I decided I will pre-order an NTK secondary o2 sensor off amazon as they have decent prices.
@@duey1083 I wouldn't recommend the use of an impact gun on any of the exhaust nuts or bolts, as you run the risk of breaking them which causes more headaches. I just spray penetrating fluid on them, let it soak in for a while, then loosen them all by hand. As for the Primary O2 sensor, I use penetrating fluid for assisstance along with a 22 mm or 7/8" O2 sensor socket. For the secondary O2 sensor, I use penetrating fluid also, and use an open ended wrench to loosen it. Just be careful as you don't want to strip or break the sensor. I find that hitting the back of your hand that is on the wrench with your other hand helps to break the sensor loose. If it's never been taken apart before, there's a chance that things will be rusty and difficult to loosen, so just take your time and use penetrating fluid to your advantage :)
Another great video guys. Did you all ever clean the exhaust valves out? I imagine it's a lot harder than the intake. Would they be gunked up if you're not running a catch can?
craigzilla100 Hmmm I'm not sure. I've never heard of anyone cleaning the exhaust valves. I doubt they would need to be cleaned since anything on the exhaust side would burn off. I guess to clean them, you could just do a nice solid pull lol
You guys are the Best! Im installing my exhaust manifold this weekend and this video definitely will help as there aren't many instructions online. Did you remove the studs with an e8 torx bit or just the 14mm nuts when removing the exhaust manifold? If you got anymore helpful tips with removal, it would be appreciated. Are there any instructions online that I can follow any links you know of? Thanks!!👍Keep crushing it!
Thanks man! Basically to make it easier, just remove the entire downpipe for more room. Remove intake from turbo. Remove manifold heat shields. Remove oil feed banjo bolt, and oil return line. Disconnect coolant feed, and return lines (lightly pinch coolant hoses with straight vice grips to prevent coolant loss). Remove 14 mm nuts from turbo to manifold. Lower turbo onto sub frame (Make sure not to lose the wastegate actuator rod retaining clip; It may be safer to remove the wastegate actuator first before lowering the turbo). Loosen 8 mm bolt holding oil feed line to manifold. Remove alternator heat shield. Loosen and remove all 14 mm nuts holding manifold to head (Some of the studs will come out with some of the nuts; This is normal. Just re-install as usual). Reverse the process when installing the new manifold tightening inside to out, and ensure all new oil seals are replaced, and gaskets are in their correct positions. Let vehicle run and check for leaks. Hope that helps. If you have any other questions, we'll be here :)
I found a catless dp and turbo header at my local pick and pull. Got then really cheap. I still need hpfp internals so I'm not installing them yet. But I'm afraid to. I'm not gonna have the money for an ap. I have a hypertech that came with my speed but I cant find answers on whether or not a hypertech tunr would be ok for those parts. Life sucks :/
I don't know anything about Hypertech devices tbh. All I know is that when going catless, you will definitely need a custom tune so u don't over boost, and hpfp internals are a must to keep up with fuel demand. I would save and purchase those first before installing any performance parts as they are the foundation to a safe running engine :)
@@WannabeTuners Thanks for the reply. I messaged cobb to see if I could get by with a stage 3 ots. I read in the mazdaspeed forum that hypertech can prevent boost spikes but not enough info other than that. I honestly might get rid of my speed and get the car I've always wanted
@@JMPK23 Imo nothing beats a custom tune for your given setup. Sure OTS maps can get the fueling characteristics pretty close, but in terms of boost and load dynamics, nothing beats custom ;)
I upgraded the turbo before anything. Then did the exhaust manifold. Then did the intake manifold. Either way both the intake and exhaust manifolds flow unevenly and should be upgraded:) Also, vent that crankcase!
Wannabe Tuners yea it looks like a diesel under full load!! But ordered a Full Race Mani and CorkSport CST5 turbski and a V3 Accessport since my V2 is no longer supported for tuning
Yeah that's true, especially because boost creep is an issue with an IWG in the colder months of the year. But, I just limit my max throttle in the tune during those months. If I do decide to go external, I'd probably go with the Bnr S5. For now I think this setup will be more than enough for the street :)
Did you have any issues with exhaust leak after you swapped the turbo and manifold? I got it all swapped out but deff have an exhaust leak and can’t seem to track it down
I didn't have any issues with exhaust leaks, and the exhaust mani gasket, turbo gasket, and downpipe gasket were all reused. An exhaust leak will usually be accompanied by carbon residue :)
Wannabe Tuners it does sound like a leak, but tomm I’ll try all the manifold bolts and O2 housing and make sure they are tight. It’s deff the tapping sound of and exhaust leak
I just recently wrapped the runners up to the collector with DEI Titanium wrap. It helped reduce heat by about 15-20%, but I still open the hood after a long stop and go traffic run with coolant temps constantly held at 217F to let it cool off :)
@@WannabeTuners Awesome. Do you know how much torque and hp at the wheels she makes ?? About to go full bolt on, on my Gen 2. Only 35,000 miles on motor...
@@Nevsack63 Right now she makes about 320 whp/wtq. The stock fuel system is nearly maxed out with conservative ignition timing. It's going to make more power soon though since we've recently incorporated a 6th port aux fuel system into the setup. Stay tuned;)
@@WannabeTuners I got to 380/375 @ the wheels on the stock fueling system. Most of the reputable tuners say 370-380whp is the limit, but you definitely have to have healthy timing to get there (I was using an E25 mix). On straight 93 I got to 325/350 @ the wheels on crappy Texas 93 before getting to the knock limit, all on a BNR S3. I had plenty of extra fuel left on that 325/350 too, since straight 93 requires a good deal less fuel volume than even E25.
@@numinous4789 Yeah man I've been running 2 gallons of intank meth since we don't have E85 in our area, so it's been eating up some fueling headroom. The 6th port kit should allow for much more boost without pushing timing too far to make some decent power :)
K Thompson Currently the car has 140,000 kms (87,000 miles). I replaced the clutch 20,000 kms ago. I decided to go with a new OEM clutch disc/pressure plate, and the Fidanza lightweight flywheel. The stock clutch has been proven to handle pretty good power. I figured since I don't track the car much, and my power goals target mild peak torque, the stock clutch should be good for daily driving :)
Of course i post the comment before watching the whole video and at the end you drive it....lol i need to start watching the whole videos before i post. Lmao
Tbh I can't really tell if it spools faster. Maybe just a little, but the way the engine revs out is smooth like butter now. The engine can definitely breathe better and feels happier.
why bother with a crap car,,, mazda = junk i would know i own a fairly new one. nothing but junk never again. they look good but never ever buy one. if i stop one of you from buying one ive helped out. also illegal to drive anywere.. no cat , huge fine
Pinkie Love If you’re not a pussy, the catless life wouldn’t bother you. You’re a special snowflake. Also one space between sentences you smooth brain.
Loved watching this very entertaining and I feel like I learned a few things !
500whp is waaaaaay underrated. The stock flange may be your limitation. These are the same ones in the Borg Warner EFR turbo kits with a T2.5 flange and flow a good deal more. Many folks use these same manifolds for 700+ at the wheels, too. They truly are a beautiful piece, and the lifetime warranty is amazing.
Numinous Good to know man. I'm lovin it so far. Sounds great and revs out eagerly:)
I’ve got the efr turbo kit with that manifold, i really like it, the turbo on my kit is a 7163
Joey Arthur Zooberry Nice is that the t25 flange?
Wannabe Tuners yes it is a t25
@@X11CHASE Do you have a built motor? If so how much power you making?
You should consider WMI instead of 5th/6th port. With 6th port you will have indeed more fuel but you will be limited by the octane.
Adding WMI has a ton of benefits:
- increases the octane of the mix so allows for significantly more timing (at least 5-6 degrees across the board compared to 93-94OCT fuel),
- of course adds additional fuel which you need;
- the water in the mix will cool down quite a lot the cylinders and pistons during the exhaust cycle, and this is something you really want with the stock brittle pistons but not only with those,
- also the water in the mix will break the carbon deposits on the pistons crown which will minimize the chances to have hot spots during high rpm/rich AFRs runs (with onyl 5th/6th port you will end up with a lot of these deposits due to the nature of the burn),
- the mix itself will keep the intake valves clean which will allow you to continue running an EGR which has a positive impact in fuel economy when driving normally, as well as emissions (not that it matters that much now that you're catless).
For 400whp I think a 900-1200cc/min nozzle will do.
I agree 100% and I do have one. We recently had to take it out when we installed the Fmic because the piping would get in the way of the WMI pump and reservoir, so it's just as matter of relocating the kit to the trunk. The thing I like about the 6th port kit is it's accuracy, and that I can run about 2 gallons of in tank methanol in the gas tank and still get the octane I need. We will see how it all plays out. I may end up just re installing the WMI kit and using a bigger nozzle for a little extra fuel because it seems simpler at this point. Thanks for the advice :)
Great info.👍
Hey guys, very good step-by-step DIY video. Btw, just a tip, cut 2 vacuum hoses of the required hose dia. and length, and sleeve them over the adjustable needle nose locking pliers' teeth. This way you’ll protect the coolant hose from being cut/damage by the adjustable needle nose’s teeth.
Very good tip man! We noticed this while pinching the lines that if they are too tight, it may rip the coolant lines :)
I just stick a big enough bolt in the hose to plug it
"How are you doing on the downpipe?"
*slides downpipe from under the car* lol
Seeing your recent post on IG made me search for you videos. I miss these
Thanks man, we definitely want to get some new content of the car now that it's back on the road :)
Found your channel a couple of months ago and been watching ever since, great stuff. I had been looking into the steps for upgrading my 2012 MS3 and what you have done pretty much is what the road map I planned on following. Mine's daily driven also so I'm not looking to go past stock block capabilities any time soon. Keep up the great work and videos you guys put out.
Jimmie Figueroa Thanks a lot eh!
You've gotta take me for a ride in this thing with all your new goodies on man. Convince me to get the manifold!!!
For sure man! I've gotta dial in a nice tune once it warms up and boost creep weather goes away (I've had to limit maximum throttle to a staggering 35% to avoid maxing out the injectors because porting the internal wastegate didn't help much. You should totally get one since you've got the CS turbo. There really aren't any drawbacks to an upgraded exhaust manifold. Better more refined sound, better flow, retains EGR, and less heat trapped inside the cylinders which reduces the potential for pre ignition and knock! :D
seems like you can do a downpipe install pretty easy :p I gotta get you to do mine when i go catless lmao
@5:02 epic foreshadow...
looks great! can you do some idle LC and fly by vids. sounds like it completely changed the tone by replacing the stock uel
Oh it did, and for the better! We're definitely going to make an action video with the new exhaust setup in the near future:)
instablaster
Like for gen juan!
Roy Yang Yeahh buddy!
Solid setup bro.
Thanks man, I never thought I would spend so much money on this car, but I can feel that I am pretty much done. Now just got to enjoy it:)
I've out grown engine swap....as for exhaust, cat-con is not compulsory for private registered petrol vehicle and you need at least a back box and it's road legal in major cities across South East Asia.
So if I don’t have a turbo I just take off the heat shields and the manifold? I’m trying to change my exhaust manifold gasket btw and I’m not a mechanic I’m just trying to learn and save a couple bucks
Yep sounds about right, although you might have to disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust manifold in order to get it off.
Thanks brother. Your video seemed easy enough, I just wanted to be sure 👍 appreciate you 🙏🏻
Good video
Thank u :)
Hey guys if you could remember that area in your exhaust video near the end with the trailers against the building? Would you make an exhaust video so we can hear the difference in sound because I've been seriously considering this upgrade but I love the unequal length header sound. Thanks so much guys for you vids. Love'em!
fivef00tgiant Thanks man! When we make that video we will pretty much mimic the last exhaust video we made, so you can get a good idea of how the current exhaust setup sounds in comparison to the previous one :)
Awesome! I cant wait! you guys great. Seriously have inspired me to take my build that much further.
fivef00tgiant Sweet dude! I'm glad :)
Great video.
Tony Garcia Thanks man, glad you enjoyed it:)
Hey what's the song in the background, I kinda dig it
What timestamp is it at?
Looking to upgrade to a BNR S3 this spring from the stock K04, which has close to 200,000 kms on it (2011 Mazdaspeed 3). I'll be adding a cPE catted downpipe at the same. Is is possible to drop the turbo and slide the BNR S3 from below the car if the downpipe is out of the way? Or is it necessary to remove the exhaust manifold and maneuver the turbo from the top of the engine bay?
Any issue with the exhaust manifold studs breaking in the head? Or are these typically not too bad?
From what we remember, removing the exhaust manifold and taking the turbo out from the top is the only way. We thought about trying it from the bottom but there's just no room. The studs are pretty good actually, they don't usually seize, just make sure the socket is on there flush when cracking them loose, and use penetrating fluid to your advantage. Also, make sure you place some masking tape on the oil feed and drain holes of the turbo to prevent dirt from getting inside during the install :)
Thank you so much for your response! I really appreciate the tips.
I noticed in your install video that you had purchased a new exhaust manifold gasket. Did you end up replacing it or keep the original one?
What did you guys end up doing with some of the stuck manifold to turbo or turbo to downpipe studs? I guess breaking them isn't probably the worst thing in the world since the turbo will be replaced. But any issues with rounding the nuts?
Did the coolant crush washers come with the BNR or did you pick them up from the dealership. I'll be purchasing from the dealership: coolant line crush washers, turbo nuts (manifold and downpipe), oil feed and return gaskets. I'll also purchase an aftermarket after cat O2 sensor as I have read that to be a potential issue.
@@duey1083 You can save money on skipping the secondary O2 sensor unless it's causing a fault. The BNR turbos come with coolant crush washers, oil feed washers, oil return gaskets (although they're paper, so we ordered OEM), and turbo to manifold / turbo to downpipe gaskets. I would just buy OEM oil return gaskets from Edgeautosport as I've heard stories of the paper ones leaking. If u want to play it safe just order all OEM oil and coolant gaskets / washers from Edge. As for the exhaust manifold to head gasket, it is a tad expensive, but we went ahead and replaced it when installing the BNR S4 turbo. We reused it when installing the Full Race Manifold without issue. The BNR turbos also come with studs. I would call BNR and double check because we installed the S4 3 years ago. Not sure if anything has changed since then ;)
@@WannabeTuners Hey! I hope you don't mind another question. I finally ordered the cPE catted downpipe through Stratified in BC. Hoping to tackle installation in 3 weeks. Do you see any harm in using and air impact gun for the turbo-DP studs? What about the O2 sensor? Obviously copious amounts of PB blaster will be used and I'll use a hose clamp on the sensor socket to keep it from spreading.
I decided I will pre-order an NTK secondary o2 sensor off amazon as they have decent prices.
@@duey1083 I wouldn't recommend the use of an impact gun on any of the exhaust nuts or bolts, as you run the risk of breaking them which causes more headaches. I just spray penetrating fluid on them, let it soak in for a while, then loosen them all by hand. As for the Primary O2 sensor, I use penetrating fluid for assisstance along with a 22 mm or 7/8" O2 sensor socket. For the secondary O2 sensor, I use penetrating fluid also, and use an open ended wrench to loosen it. Just be careful as you don't want to strip or break the sensor. I find that hitting the back of your hand that is on the wrench with your other hand helps to break the sensor loose. If it's never been taken apart before, there's a chance that things will be rusty and difficult to loosen, so just take your time and use penetrating fluid to your advantage :)
Whtz up guys, I'm in California and have a 06 ms6. Would you recommend that same manifold for this application?
Absoutely! The Full Race exhaust manifold is a really well made and from what I remember reading, has a lifetime warranty
Another great video guys. Did you all ever clean the exhaust valves out? I imagine it's a lot harder than the intake. Would they be gunked up if you're not running a catch can?
craigzilla100 Hmmm I'm not sure. I've never heard of anyone cleaning the exhaust valves. I doubt they would need to be cleaned since anything on the exhaust side would burn off. I guess to clean them, you could just do a nice solid pull lol
Wannabe Tuners true dat!
You guys are the Best! Im installing my exhaust manifold this weekend and this video definitely will help as there aren't many instructions online. Did you remove the studs with an e8 torx bit or just the 14mm nuts when removing the exhaust manifold? If you got anymore helpful tips with removal, it would be appreciated. Are there any instructions online that I can follow any links you know of? Thanks!!👍Keep crushing it!
Thanks man! Basically to make it easier, just remove the entire downpipe for more room. Remove intake from turbo. Remove manifold heat shields. Remove oil feed banjo bolt, and oil return line. Disconnect coolant feed, and return lines (lightly pinch coolant hoses with straight vice grips to prevent coolant loss). Remove 14 mm nuts from turbo to manifold. Lower turbo onto sub frame (Make sure not to lose the wastegate actuator rod retaining clip; It may be safer to remove the wastegate actuator first before lowering the turbo). Loosen 8 mm bolt holding oil feed line to manifold. Remove alternator heat shield. Loosen and remove all 14 mm nuts holding manifold to head (Some of the studs will come out with some of the nuts; This is normal. Just re-install as usual). Reverse the process when installing the new manifold tightening inside to out, and ensure all new oil seals are replaced, and gaskets are in their correct positions. Let vehicle run and check for leaks. Hope that helps. If you have any other questions, we'll be here :)
Wannabe Tuners Awesome! Thank you and cheers to bloody knuckle, the Speed3 requires it!! Thank you for the instructions. 👍
T1MERUNN3R 414 Cheers man!
I found a catless dp and turbo header at my local pick and pull. Got then really cheap. I still need hpfp internals so I'm not installing them yet. But I'm afraid to. I'm not gonna have the money for an ap. I have a hypertech that came with my speed but I cant find answers on whether or not a hypertech tunr would be ok for those parts.
Life sucks :/
I don't know anything about Hypertech devices tbh. All I know is that when going catless, you will definitely need a custom tune so u don't over boost, and hpfp internals are a must to keep up with fuel demand. I would save and purchase those first before installing any performance parts as they are the foundation to a safe running engine :)
@@WannabeTuners
Thanks for the reply. I messaged cobb to see if I could get by with a stage 3 ots.
I read in the mazdaspeed forum that hypertech can prevent boost spikes but not enough info other than that. I honestly might get rid of my speed and get the car I've always wanted
@@JMPK23 Imo nothing beats a custom tune for your given setup. Sure OTS maps can get the fueling characteristics pretty close, but in terms of boost and load dynamics, nothing beats custom ;)
@@JMPK23 what's the car you always wanted
@@TheChocolateChamp 4th gen ls1 trans am M6. Got it back in September.
What did you do first? Intake manifold or turbo upgrade? Trying to figure out which way I want to go.
I upgraded the turbo before anything. Then did the exhaust manifold. Then did the intake manifold. Either way both the intake and exhaust manifolds flow unevenly and should be upgraded:) Also, vent that crankcase!
Awesome thanks! Guess I’ll turbo first
Wannabe Tuners I have the same vent cap setup you have. One of the first things I did
@@jebified Yeah it's definitely necessary when increasing power output, to prevent the turbo from smoking
Wannabe Tuners yea it looks like a diesel under full load!! But ordered a Full Race Mani and CorkSport CST5 turbski and a V3 Accessport since my V2 is no longer supported for tuning
Nice mani fersure but you shoulda gon with an external setup! For all the flow and cool noises
Yeah that's true, especially because boost creep is an issue with an IWG in the colder months of the year. But, I just limit my max throttle in the tune during those months. If I do decide to go external, I'd probably go with the Bnr S5. For now I think this setup will be more than enough for the street :)
Did you have any issues with exhaust leak after you swapped the turbo and manifold? I got it all swapped out but deff have an exhaust leak and can’t seem to track it down
I didn't have any issues with exhaust leaks, and the exhaust mani gasket, turbo gasket, and downpipe gasket were all reused. An exhaust leak will usually be accompanied by carbon residue :)
Wannabe Tuners yea I don’t see any of that. Wonder what it could be then
And the exhaust tone sounds completely different!! Deff digging it
@@jebified If you don't see any signs of carbon it could be just the way the new setup sounds. Does it sound like an exhaust leak?
Wannabe Tuners it does sound like a leak, but tomm I’ll try all the manifold bolts and O2 housing and make sure they are tight. It’s deff the tapping sound of and exhaust leak
👍
How are your under hood temps. I was thinking about getting this manifold but ceramic coated
I just recently wrapped the runners up to the collector with DEI Titanium wrap. It helped reduce heat by about 15-20%, but I still open the hood after a long stop and go traffic run with coolant temps constantly held at 217F to let it cool off :)
Is this otherwise a stock engine block ???
Yes the engine is completely stock. It just has a Fidanza flywheel.
@@WannabeTuners Awesome. Do you know how much torque and hp at the wheels she makes ?? About to go full bolt on, on my Gen 2. Only 35,000 miles on motor...
@@Nevsack63 Right now she makes about 320 whp/wtq. The stock fuel system is nearly maxed out with conservative ignition timing. It's going to make more power soon though since we've recently incorporated a 6th port aux fuel system into the setup. Stay tuned;)
@@WannabeTuners I got to 380/375 @ the wheels on the stock fueling system. Most of the reputable tuners say 370-380whp is the limit, but you definitely have to have healthy timing to get there (I was using an E25 mix). On straight 93 I got to 325/350 @ the wheels on crappy Texas 93 before getting to the knock limit, all on a BNR S3. I had plenty of extra fuel left on that 325/350 too, since straight 93 requires a good deal less fuel volume than even E25.
@@numinous4789 Yeah man I've been running 2 gallons of intank meth since we don't have E85 in our area, so it's been eating up some fueling headroom. The 6th port kit should allow for much more boost without pushing timing too far to make some decent power :)
Any issues with leaving the manifold not ceramic coated?
So far the color has changed slightly, it's lost that goldish color but absolutely zero rust ;) It's definitely a quality manifold
whats a rough estimate on cost to bring the car from stock to this point?
1 bulk cash
Anywhere between 8k-15k just in performance mods if you do nothing cosmetic
How many km on the car right now? Has the clutch been done?
K Thompson Currently the car has 140,000 kms (87,000 miles). I replaced the clutch 20,000 kms ago. I decided to go with a new OEM clutch disc/pressure plate, and the Fidanza lightweight flywheel. The stock clutch has been proven to handle pretty good power. I figured since I don't track the car much, and my power goals target mild peak torque, the stock clutch should be good for daily driving :)
Can I find one of dose for Mazda Speed 2003 stock turbo?
The mazdaspeed protege? Tbh Idk. I'm sure the aftermarket has something available :)
@@WannabeTuners yes 2003!
Do you ever drive the car? Jw. Haha thing looks beastly.
Lol it gets babied most of the time
Of course i post the comment before watching the whole video and at the end you drive it....lol i need to start watching the whole videos before i post. Lmao
Do you notice the turbo spoiling faster ?
Tbh I can't really tell if it spools faster. Maybe just a little, but the way the engine revs out is smooth like butter now. The engine can definitely breathe better and feels happier.
Nice speed3 nice job but that little beast needs a better battery those crappy tire batteries suck
About these bolts are you really done it with new or with used :D
lol The bolts are for the heat shields on the stock exhaust manifold and they're no longer needed once the new manifold is installed :)
Wannabe Tuners xD okey now i learned something new xD
Krčmy's Garage Good I'm happy
What would the power level be roughly?
It all depends on the setup and tune. I'll probably settle at about 360-380 whp and keep torque around 350 wtq
4:50 do you think thats what happend to your cylinder? I want to tune my car but fuk that
In my case, the connecting rod in cylinder 2 let go. All the piston ringlands and bearings looked good :)
Why dont you install a meth kit for your car 🤔
We had one on the car a couple years ago, but have just recently installed 6th port aux fuel ;)
You should sell me this car
why bother with a crap car,,, mazda = junk i would know i own a fairly new one. nothing but junk never again. they look good but never ever buy one. if i stop one of you from buying one ive helped out. also illegal to drive anywere.. no cat , huge fine
Thanks for your opinion
Pinkie Love your dumb bro lol
Pinkie Love If you’re not a pussy, the catless life wouldn’t bother you. You’re a special snowflake. Also one space between sentences you smooth brain.