FL5 Civic Type R Dyno Run and Oil Tests - Do You Gain More Power from Different Engine Oil?
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- Опубликовано: 13 май 2023
- Special thanks to Tony and Jacky for making this video possible.
In this video, we put Tony's Honda Civic Type R FL5 on the dyno machine, and test out different Motul engine oils to see what differences they make in terms of power, temperature, and oil pressure. It's very interesting to see how much power the FL5 Type R makes at the wheels with everything in stock form. The various results from our oil tests also showed us some interesting insights, so please stay tunned and watch what we found out!
We will be sharing more contents and ownership experiences of the Type R, so let us know in the comments section below what contents you would like to see on the Type R.
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Авто/Мото
Great work! Love how detailed this is!
-R24653 owner(FK8)
Thank you, glad you liked the video, what oilf do you use for your FK8?
@@sundaymorningdrives Honestly, I only use Mobil1 0w20. I live in the Southern California area. It’s starting to heat up here. But the car is bone stock. Daily grocery getter, with an occasional boosted on-ramp highway entrance, or to pass a big rig. I see no reason to go thicker. I might try that Motul 0-20! That Ester base, I wonder what group category that oil is in.
Thanks for the informative video 👍
You are most welcome, you own a FL5 Type R?
@@sundaymorningdrives yes sir. Do a lot of track work with it. Always interesting seeing these kinds of comparos with dyno sheets to compare and not just subjective opinion
@@tezzasaurusrex nice, glad the video helped
Thank you, good work.
Glad you like it, you have a Type R also?
Got one a few weeks ago. Was looking though youtube for FL5 info and you came up.
@@soulessvalleys8404 nice! How are you enjoying it?
I use mobil 1 esp x3 0W40 with Great results. It is against lspi, midsaps and racetrack approved.
In my Type-R FK2.. I changed after many power and thermal modifications (eg bigger MHI Mitsubishi Turbo Bolt-on,.. HJS Sports-cat downpipe,.. big Forge Motorsport IC,.. Dream Automotive: HardLagged turbo thermal shield , Oil return heat shield, HardLagged OEM water pipe,.. J's Racing: SPL Low Temp Thermostat,.. 4Piston: ARP Head-Studs kit,...etc.) from OEM Honda 0w-20 Type 2.0 (2.65 HTHS ) to Mobil 1 ESP LV 0w-30 (3.0 HTHS) API SN, ACEA A5/B5... The sound of the engine is soft and the engine runs great under all operating conditions..💪
Mobil 1 ESP LV 0w-30 is a TOP strong oil (base oil: GTL, PAO, esters)... with a strong balanced package of anti-wear and friction modifiers: 350 ppm boron, 900-1000 ppm ZDDP, 90 ppm organic moly MoDTC- 3- Trimer... + balanced package of detergent additives synergistically supporting the AW/FM package..., also very important low amount of viscosity modifiers - reduction of deposits on pistons. Excellent oil from ExxonMobil suitable for modern and powerful engines designed for low viscosity oils.
Wow, that's a lot of mods, thank you for the detailed information 👍
Sorry, but that is Not correct. The ESP LV 0W30 cannot be have 1000 zddp because it is a low saps, there is Not allowed to use high saps. The oem Engine Type 2.0 is very good oil if you use the car in normally conditions.
@@Phil_Moni it's Mid Saps not Low Saps (Saps 0,88%)!! .. see the analysis of this oil on the net (900-1000ppm ZDDP, High amount of Boron as a high-pressure additive and the effective amount of Moly Trimer MoDTC 3). OEM Honda Type 2.0 - is an oil with a high amount of viscosity modifiers, with HC base oil of group 3 - shear stability gradually decreases. It is not suitable for track days and demanding operation in power-modified engines.
With the 0w-20 Oil from Motul. The Power band in low revs is quite a bit worse 11:00 . I am suprsied that the same viscosity can make such a big difference.
And its argueable if you need more oil pressure. 500 kpa is already decent. But yeah with higher temps it should in theory perform better
Thank you for making this video. I use Motul gear oil in my tranny and rear diff of my BRZ but I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for the engine oil. Do you think pennzoil ultra platinum is comparable to Motul engine oil?
Sorry, I have never used pennzoil before so I can't say. But I don't think oil brands make too much of a difference as long as they are the right spec for your vehicle?
Engine Oil would :
1. play a part in power by preserving it through minimize/prevention of wear and promotion of cleanliness
2. The lower the weight, the less parasitic loss and increase inefficiency and cooling. The higher the weight, the more higher ceiling potential of the oil before it breaks down. The recommendation is use the weight ranges provided by the manufacturer and not play with weight unless you know what you are doing. Often times, the user needs more cooling as opposed to a higher weight oil.
Pennzoil ultra platinum is good oil, but like any oil, it goes through reformulations. Track record isn't great with Ultra platinum and in fact has been "downgraded" as you can see nonack specs has worsened. I believe Pennzoil would be good enough, but you have to understand if it can accomplish #1 as stated above adequately.
I would say the Pennzoil ultra is a step below Motul 8100 series oil. I believe Pennzoil is a group 3 and Motul has some group 4 PAO base. As for additive package, motul is also well proven. Pennzoil ultra is already a great oil, but motul is a step up
@@MrBillDaBear nice, good knowledge there
What about that AMSOIL
Right, amsoil advertises more power. I have no idea what motul advertises
So higher oil pressure is a good thing??Can some please explain to me please
Generally, the higher the oil pressure, the better it is for your engine, as it helps to reduce friction and wear between moving parts. But too much oil pressure can be dangerous, as it can cause oil leakage and damage bearings.
What about 300v for daily use?
Does it break sooner than any single ester or non ester oil?
I think it's totally fine for daily use, you are supposed to do an oil change every year anyway, so the lifetime of the oil doesn't matter that much, do you own a Type R also?
@Philslife84 I actually think the oem oil is good enough, i will be tracking my Type R in September, and will see how the oem oil holds up 😁
@@sundaymorningdrivesdo you use now Motul 300v ?
@Phil_Moni nope, I just use the recommended stock Oil from Honda, I feel that is fine 🙂
My FK8 R makes 566whp@7600rpm 30psi - I run Mobil 1 5w-30 extended performance with Mobil 1 filter. Same oil a 720whp FK8 runs - better to run a thicker oil for performance driving. 0w-20 is just too thin
566whp? My God, how do a fwd car handle that much power? 😆
@Sunday Morning Drives power isn't much of an issue - torque is
My torque request is pretty smooth and ramps in smoothly peaking at full boost at 4800rpm which is 30psi 440ftlbs
Turbo builds boost in the 3k area and goes from 0 to 30psi over about 1000rpm window vs 0 to 30 instantly which would overwhelm the tires with a torque spike like that
265s are OK for my power but I'll be moving to a 305 upfront soon as I up the power. Built motor and 500+ftlbs is when you really need the 305s or even 315s upfront FL5 fenders can fir them easily with proper offset - FK8 fits 305 but FL5 has wider fenders
@@therlife9804 nice, good to hear you have everything thought out. What did you do to gain that much power and torque?
@Sunday Morning Drives just bolt-ons
PRL HVI , RAMPAGE 4" maf housing, PRL titanium inlet, RV6 R660, 5" catless downpipe fron a guy in Puerto Rico. 3" PRL frontpipe, 3" Greddy exhaust
Fuel was Xdi hpfp, ported fuel rail, bored and tapered hp fuel line, PRL v2 flex kit, JSR ptfe fuel line, fk8td 1430 injectors, dw300c intank pump
Was trying to keep it as stock looking as possible lol - moving to 2000cc injectors for more high rpm power, JSR low pressure fuel kit with -6AN fuel line and return using a hellcat 535lph fuel pump - also deletes the oem fuel filter which falls apart on Ethanol. Reliability and power mod at the same time lol
Also upgrading my headgasket to JE Pro Seal MLS with arp 625 studs and upgraded torque nuts. Ferrea valvetrain as well so 7800-8000 should be OK without float on 34-36 psi.
Car is alot of fun but preventive mods help keep it alive. Oem filter is trash so delete asap on Ethanol.
@@therlife9804 that is a lot of mod man... how long have you had the car for?
How about gear oil motul fk8?
I would just go with factory recommendation tbh
@@sundaymorningdrives factory use MTF3 right?just to confirm
@@Mrbill-pd4oe not too sure tbh, better to confirm with your service dealership 😄
Why not 0w30 asmoil ?
Amsoil is a good brand, I used to use it for my Mustang GT350, but somehow I don't think it's a well-known brand in NZ
Will be grate test between 0w20 and 5w30 , like everyone see oil 0w20 get earlier full power in lower temp , 5w30 need to get a temperature before hard drive , I think that 0w30 is best choice for daily driving
@jabko11 yes, agree, and 0w30 is the recommended viscosity from factory I believe
The suspension setup is different from a normal civic?
Ya, I think they are definitely different from a standard civic, more aluminum parts, and different geometries
@@sundaymorningdrives Normal civic including the hatchback models? lighter cars than the Civic Sedan.
The front suspension is no MacPherson type. Turn the steering wheel and you will notice that the strut is not moving. With a MacPherson suspension the strut will rotate along with your steering wheel input.
@@nfspeedy2 It's based on the MacPherson Strut structure no? An enhanced version of it?
@@sundaymorningdrives a MacPherson front suspension has a ballbearing at the top of the strut to allow the movement of the strut when steering. The Civic Type R dont have that ballbearing. The construction is different. To understand it is easiest to look at it on the lift while someone is turning the steering wheel.