Thank you very much for the tutorial .I saw a pool of coolant on top of the transmission thinking that was only the gasket , I only replaced it but It leaked again but,now I know how the thermostat works , I need to replace all the piece ,thanks again
I did a couple of videos on replacing the thermostat assembly and crossover tube ( the crossover tube was the worst). Going slow and taking your time helps. Good luck
Great video. I actually have 5 minis and help support a family members too. I am experiencing on two the low coolant temp situation and the family member has a high coolant temp. He recently replaced the thermostat with a new one and it brough the temp down from the red zone to approx. 220 - 226 degrees (he also replaced his friction wheel, an often overlooked critical part of the coolant system) and now he is going to replace his water pump and pully to bring the confidence back to 100% that is cooling system is working properly. On the my two with low coolant temps, I'm just going to replace the thermostat as I've already replaced the water pump and pully's on both of them. Thanks again for an amazing video.
Hello. Thank you very much for your video, it has been very helpful. I did the 12V test with my thermostat for more than 10 minutes. I was able to measure temperatures on the thermostat shaft of more than 110ºC and it did not move. The strange thing is that it is a thermostat that was changed by a workshop less than 6 months ago. Any explanation? Thanks you.
@@karakarlos the brand new thermostat assembly I got from Rockauto (not OEM) really acted up since I installed a couple years ago. It was really slow at opening. It wouldn’t open until 220 - 225 F then it decided not to open and the overheating engine light came on. After a couple of hot engine temp, it became stuck open and temps never exceeded 180 F (never worried overheating in the hot summer months). Then this year, the first outside temperature drop to 32 F, the thermostat started working again. It sort of fixed itself. I’ve monitoring the engine temperature with my analog gauge and the OBII port. If I run the heat, which draws the heat from the coolant, the engine never get to temp fast enough and I get an engine code “not reaching temp”. At other times, engine get to 215-220F thermostat before it opens and temp drops to 200 F and engine temp stays level. So it is sort of opening and closing “normally”. It’s as if the thermostat needed to be temperature “shocked” to get it working properly. Sorry for the long reply. Good luck
@@mcmcminicooper Thanks for your reply. Indeed, I think the thermostat is blocked due to overheating. I have ordered a new thermostat and will check afterwards that everything is OK. After changing the pulley, tensioner, water pump and thermostat, if the engine continues to overheat it will probably be the cylinder head that is faulty. I keep my fingers crossed 😅 Bye
Impressive sir...🎉 Could you tell me, how to access that spring. I'd like to reduce its stiffnes So more water can flow. I live in tropical city.. it reaches 40'c on sunny traffic
@@sf7760 the whole thermostat assembly housing is sealed or welded together. The spring can only be accessible by cutting it open which destroys the assembly. Not serviceable at all which is a shame.
That is odd. I remember my old thermostat would be stuck open and I would get an error cold that the engine could not get to temperature. The replacement was closed I remember. I wonder if it was heated, if it would open and then when it cools, it would close completely. I would return new part and get another one.
i wanna thank the person who came up with this idea of a thermostat. In today's world where people are concerned about global warming, durability and all that kinda stuff, it makes perfect sense to redesign this part. I remember the old cars. Metal housing, thermostat underneath the cap. Pop it out, and 10 bucks later you were done. Now? Just look at this nonsense. So yeah, thank you sir, for helping the environment and such. And yeah, this is much easier for the owner to fix indeed. O wait, what's that? Right, it ain't none of your concern. So what you, mr great guy, are telling me is that this is just to screw up society? Right. I thank you again. And a special thanks to those who accept this crap.
@@bertjesklotepino I had trouble bleeding through the bleed valve. I never got coolant to bleed out. Pulling a vacuum worked. I changed the crossover tube which I think made an air bubble at the impeller so basically the impeller was just spinning air and could never move the bubble. Good luck
@@mcmcminicooper thanks, that makes sense. My brother has a car like this, and he asked me to put in a new thermostat for him. And so i did. Before i did so, the car heater did not get warm. And the fan kept running after switching off the engine. And it even started running prior to starting the engine. NOW after i replaced the thermostat and with a new sensor, the car heater gets hot again. BUT the fan does not seem to want to start. Maybe, just maybe the temperature of the coolant was not yet hot enough for the fan to start..... Or, i mixed up the cables and accidentally switched 2 connectors (although it is highly unlikely because i did take a picture., but maybe i did....) The fan worked prior to the installation of the new thermostat, al be it that it kept running and started running even with a cold engine. I have seen videos in which they say it is the fan that is broken. What do you think? And, if i did mix up a connector, just try to switch em around to see what it does or??? If you have any idea, it would be greatly appreciated. Thx for these replies and in advance for any other reply.
@ I’m not in town but will check once back home but I don’t think those two connectors can be switched because they are keyed. The engine fan will come on if the AC is on regardless if the engine is cool. It is blowing air over the AC coils.
@@mcmcminicooper First of all: I apologize for writing you a book. But i really do appreciate your responses. Muchos Gracias Right. I did not realize that the fan would come on if the AC is on. Have to check this out. As for the 2 connectors.... I have seen a guy replace his thermostat and for to make it easier he pulled the wire harness out of the way. As in: all the spark plugs and connectors. From left to right, basically. He marked some with a dot, to make sure he would not mix em up. 1 of my connectors was marked as well, and i took a picture. And i did put it back where it was on the picture. But it looks very similar to the other connector close to it. And i have no clue if you can switch em. If they are keyed, then no way indeed. But if not, they might have been switched around by other people. (since i put it back where it was on the picture)... There was a leakage some 300 miles ago. The plastic tube behind the engine was old and had ruptured. So, my brother took it to the garage and they replaced this pipe. That is the only time i can imagine that they might have switched the connectors. BUT, i will check if they are keyed to make sure if it is even possible to switch em. They do look the same. 2 wire connectors. Anyway, if it is possible to switch em around, i can not imagine that this would damage the fan. But could it prevent the fan from kicking in at the right moment? I think it could. At the moment the fan does not start spinning, not low and not high. (but have to check with AC on etc.) I really hope this fan has not died on me , because that is another 200 euro or so. And, there is sludge on the oil cap and in a breather pipe ontop of the engine, which to me says that there is a leak somewhere. And if that is the case, i wonder if it is worth replacing the fan. Btw, this is gonna sound stupid, but what about switching the hoses that go to your heater in the car. What would the problem be if you switched them around? No heat in the car? I forgot to mark em and put em back on the way i remembered, but i could have made a mistake there.... This will be all, sir, for sure. Otherwise i would start to look like a troll. Btw, i did not see the x ray portion of the vid. Cool stuff. Wish i had the tech to do that kinda stuff.
The bleed screw never worked for me. I counted the number of turns on my old part to know how far to back out the screw without it fall out, but still no coolant out the bleed valve. It turned out to be a big air pocket in the coolant pump so basically it was turning air and no coolant flow through the system. I bought a vacuum to pull out the air. Good luck
@@josuerivera1547 I don’t know the exact temperature but I believe it’s above 200F. Another thought is my replacement thermostat assembly was faulty where it wasn’t opening at the temperature thus no coolant from the bleed.
Great video, wonder if you could assist me with something, at 3.32 in the video there is a gold colour what looks like valve on the outside of the underside of the thermostat (not the gold part the heater part slides into), and am guessing when u push the thermostat back down that its shown at 3.54 in the video from the other side. Do you remember if this moves when u tip the part up and down at all, or even better do u still have that thermostat there to test if that part moves ? Your help would be very much appreciated. TIA.
The thermostat appears to be a solid part that slides on the heater rod. There is nothing separate externally that moves. The only thing is the bypass which is a small bearing in a cage that wobbles around when I rotate the thermostat. The whole thermostat slides on the heater rod. I should have increased the x-ray image to see what the wax chamber inside the thermostat looks like. I’ll try that and if it looks interesting, I’ll post. Btw - my install of the new thermostat assemble (another video) failed just a little beyond its 2 year warranty. It failed completely open. Oh well better open than closed. Good luck.
On the next thermostat housing replacement, i think i would drill some holes near the thermo gate to make my jcw run cooler, i want it to run below 90°C all the way rather than stay over a boiling water temperature. Whats your thoughts?
You may get an engine code because it is not getting up to temp. My thermostat was stuck open a little and the engine was running cooler. Thus I changed the thermostat assembly. The engine light would come on because it was never getting above 100C. Btw ECS makes a metal crossover tube which is a great improvement over the plastic version. I plan on doing a review on it.
Would you say it is possible to measure the resistance of the heater element with an ordinary multimeter? I replaced my thermostat housing due to fault code 2ee5, but when trying to measuren the resistance at the two heater element connector pins, whether on the old nor on the new thermostat I get any Ohm values below infinite.
@@wolfgang6028 the heater pins (not the coolant sensor) I measure 15.3 Ohms on my old thermostat assembly. Check the scale setting on your meter. Good luck
@ thanks very much for confirming, this is helping a lot in my troubleshoot course. Since I see no ohms near to around 15, I can only hope that it’s not the dme shooting every thermostat I connect
Hi!really appreciate your video,I have a question I have a problem with my wife’s 2011 mini cooper clubman,the fan doesn’t turn on when it’s up to temperature,but it turns on when I turn on the ac and that works to bring down the temperature of the engine,do you think it could be the thermostat?
I think the fan is usually controlled by the computer. When the computer sees the engine temp getting too high, it turns on the fan. When the AC is switched on, that automatically causes the fan to run because it needs air to flow over the evaporator or condenser coils. Use an OBD2 reader (see my other videos) to see what the engine temp the computer is seeing. I am guessing the coolant temp sensor is faulty or the connector to coolant temp sensor is bad (see my other video on replacing the connector). Good luck
@@mcmcminicooper you might be right about the coolant sensor being faulty cause when I remove the connector to the sensor while the car is on the fan turns on and won’t stop till I plug her back up,thank you
Why you change the thermostat? I am facing the problem that my engine cooling is not happening when it request its taking time and my engine coolant temperature went to 115 degree centigrade to the reference value 98-105 degree . This problem created vapor in the cooling system that create pressure in the system. Its happen to you the same or there some else problem
I changed it because my thermostat was stuck open. Of the two, stuck open is better than stuck closed. I would get an error code saying that my engine wasn’t reaching temperature, engine running too cool. Sounds like Overheating and not opening fully or the impeller. That is other wacky thing about minis, the water pump or impeller is not always spinning. There is a mechanism that engages it to spin when needed which can go bad.
what can cause a problem in my car if 12v does not come from this connection and therefore the thermostat does not open and the car is boiling constantly ? Mini one 1.4 N12 2009
@@MilosDjStanojevic Not 100% sure I understand the question. The thermostat is opening and closing is a mechanical device. The sensor is for the computer which basically lights the warning light if it exceeds high temperature or if the engine doesn’t heat up fast enough. I had the thermostat stuck close (overheating) or stuck open (engine not warming). Good luck
@ great question. I thought it turned on when the engine was very cold. The Mini engine runs very inefficiently when cold and I thought if the coolant was below a specific temperature, it turns on the heater to speed up the warming of the engine. Once the engine gets to a temperature, the heater turns off. Since cold out, I’ll test this to see if this true. Look for a future video. Thanks for the question. Good luck
I think when you turn the heat setting inside on high, it sends a signal to a relay that applies 12V to heat the thermostat to open. I think this is why they tell you to turn the heat on when bleeding the air from cooling system. If the thermostat was closed, the air would be trapped when bleeding the system. Good luck
So the hot water Will not open the thermostat??? I u mean that it must open with 12v ????? So it’s electrical thermostat ? And the 12 v came from the ecu ?
@@LucasGstreet maybe I’m confusing it. The way I believe it works is the thermostat opens and closes when the wax heats up or cools. So it’s a mechanical thermostat. The heater in the thermostat is there to heat the engine coolant only when it’s cold to get the engine to nominal temperature. Once the coolant gets to the ideal temperature the engine likes running at, the heater turns off. I also think if you turn the heat on in the car and if the engine is cold, the heater in the thermostat turns on too to get heat faster in the car. The 12V comes from a relay that is controlled by the ecu. Hope I’m not confusing things
@ I replace a new thermostat in 2012 mini countryman and still the same problème the water rises from the reservoir and still cold how i can know that the termostat open ?
We had a Hyundai that had a tstat failure under warranty. The thermostat module looked very similar. Now I get it. But… why? My theory is that, knowing they could save $ by casting this piece out of plastic vs aluminum, and knowing that the plastic is not as resistant to heat, they devised this way of opening the thermostat to extend the life of the plastic piece, as well as give more control (possibly for emissions?) over thermostat opening by going to the electrically heated piece. 🤔🙌
Emissions is probably one of the main reasons. I’m guessing the opening temperature set at 221F (a bit high) is another reason to improve emissions but hard on the engine and plastic parts in the long run.
I replaced this part because it was leaking but temperature went from 95 avg to 105 c , any idea why? I tried bleeding the air from the bleeder screw but doesn't seem to work
I did a couple videos on when I replaced mine. II had an air bubble trapped in the system but that caused it go over 122C. I also noticed the same thing with the average temp. I previously had an average lower engine temp but after the change out, I now have an average higher temp. The thermostat is rated at 121c to open which I think is high. I am guessing my old thermostat didn’t make a great seal when closed but the new one does. Minis tend to run hot. I think they do think for emissions.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I connected the wrong hoses. was quite surprised when temperature actually rise with the new part, but I m more relieve.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I connected the wrong hoses. was quite surprised when temperature actually rise with the new part, but I m more relieve.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I connected the wrong hoses. was quite surprised when temperature actually rise with the new part, but I m more relieve.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I connected the wrong hoses. was quite surprised when temperature actually rise with the new part, but I m more relieve.
For me, my thermostat was not closing so I got an error code that the engine could not get to temperature (too cool). I imagine for others, it would be that your engine is overheating, but that could be caused a whole bunch of other things too, such as the impeller, the electronic gear that engages the impeller, or the radiator clogged. Sorry I could be better help. good luck
It's not like the old days where you can easily pull them out and drop it into boiling water to see when they open and close. You will need a OBDII reader to read you engine temperature. They should open around 120F and when they do, the temp reading will drop. You can also force the thermostat to open by turning on your car heater, which will heat the water at your thermostat and cause it to open. Good Luck!
@@tm5346 yes, I replaced the crossover pipe. It was a pain in the butt, people suggested changing it too because it’s made of plastic and becomes brittle over time. See my Part 2 Install video
I purchased mine on Rockauto. There is a wide selection and it took me awhile to pick one. I finally picked FACET 78927K {#7.8927K} (Standard Replacement) Includes Thermostat, Housing and Gasket; Includes Cable Info W/CABLE. They sold me on the welding process they use. It seems to work fine. The thermostat opens a little later than I would like but appears to open at the 221F or 105C temperature which it is rated for.
Did I miss speak in the video? For this assembly there are two ways to open the thermostat, when the engine normally heats up the coolant or by the heater element which heats the coolant in the assembly. The heater element gets power when the cabin heat is turned on. At least that is the way I thought.
For these thermostats in second gen R56 Minis, they are rated at 105C or 220F. Much higher than typical thermostats. No sure why, but guessing for these engines, they perform better with emmissions at higher temperatures.
@@mcmcminicooper Well this is comforting; theres no temp gauge and i had an issue with the cooling system. Ultimately, i got a BlueDriver Bluetooth sensor to keep an eye on it.. Watched to make sure the system kicks in consistently; which it does at 221~225°F and drops below 200°F~210°F(also depends on drive mode/sport mode). But its good to know how hot its supposed tobe.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Extremely cool x-ray view! Thanks for taking the time to post that.
Excellent videos! Wow and he explains so well! Unbelievable cool once again thank you !
Cool video. Very thorough and descriptive. Xray was awesome! Wish I had an x-ray machine. Thanks for the Video!
Thank you very much for the tutorial .I saw a pool of coolant on top of the transmission thinking that was only the gasket , I only replaced it but It leaked again but,now I know how the thermostat works , I need to replace all the piece ,thanks again
I did a couple of videos on replacing the thermostat assembly and crossover tube ( the crossover tube was the worst). Going slow and taking your time helps. Good luck
Great video. I actually have 5 minis and help support a family members too. I am experiencing on two the low coolant temp situation and the family member has a high coolant temp. He recently replaced the thermostat with a new one and it brough the temp down from the red zone to approx. 220 - 226 degrees (he also replaced his friction wheel, an often overlooked critical part of the coolant system) and now he is going to replace his water pump and pully to bring the confidence back to 100% that is cooling system is working properly. On the my two with low coolant temps, I'm just going to replace the thermostat as I've already replaced the water pump and pully's on both of them.
Thanks again for an amazing video.
I also replaced the thermostat assembly and did two videos - removal and install. Cross over pipe is a pain! Good luck!
Great video exactly what I was wandering.
Wow I am working on this right m now Thank you X ray was awesome
Excellent information - thank you! 👌🏻
Thanks for the great video very informative really helped me with my mini cooper r56 thermostat was acting up
Glad it helped
Hello. Thank you very much for your video, it has been very helpful. I did the 12V test with my thermostat for more than 10 minutes. I was able to measure temperatures on the thermostat shaft of more than 110ºC and it did not move. The strange thing is that it is a thermostat that was changed by a workshop less than 6 months ago. Any explanation? Thanks you.
@@karakarlos the brand new thermostat assembly I got from Rockauto (not OEM) really acted up since I installed a couple years ago. It was really slow at opening. It wouldn’t open until 220 - 225 F then it decided not to open and the overheating engine light came on. After a couple of hot engine temp, it became stuck open and temps never exceeded 180 F (never worried overheating in the hot summer months). Then this year, the first outside temperature drop to 32 F, the thermostat started working again. It sort of fixed itself. I’ve monitoring the engine temperature with my analog gauge and the OBII port. If I run the heat, which draws the heat from the coolant, the engine never get to temp fast enough and I get an engine code “not reaching temp”. At other times, engine get to 215-220F thermostat before it opens and temp drops to 200 F and engine temp stays level. So it is sort of opening and closing “normally”. It’s as if the thermostat needed to be temperature “shocked” to get it working properly. Sorry for the long reply. Good luck
@@mcmcminicooper Thanks for your reply. Indeed, I think the thermostat is blocked due to overheating. I have ordered a new thermostat and will check afterwards that everything is OK. After changing the pulley, tensioner, water pump and thermostat, if the engine continues to overheat it will probably be the cylinder head that is faulty. I keep my fingers crossed 😅 Bye
Impressive sir...🎉
Could you tell me, how to access that spring.
I'd like to reduce its stiffnes
So more water can flow.
I live in tropical city.. it reaches 40'c on sunny traffic
@@sf7760 the whole thermostat assembly housing is sealed or welded together. The spring can only be accessible by cutting it open which destroys the assembly. Not serviceable at all which is a shame.
How come the thermostat i bought is in open position just like the one im replacing ?did they give me bad thermostat?
That is odd. I remember my old thermostat would be stuck open and I would get an error cold that the engine could not get to temperature. The replacement was closed I remember. I wonder if it was heated, if it would open and then when it cools, it would close completely. I would return new part and get another one.
i wanna thank the person who came up with this idea of a thermostat.
In today's world where people are concerned about global warming, durability and all that kinda stuff, it makes perfect sense to redesign this part.
I remember the old cars.
Metal housing, thermostat underneath the cap.
Pop it out, and 10 bucks later you were done.
Now?
Just look at this nonsense.
So yeah, thank you sir, for helping the environment and such.
And yeah, this is much easier for the owner to fix indeed.
O wait, what's that? Right, it ain't none of your concern.
So what you, mr great guy, are telling me is that this is just to screw up society?
Right.
I thank you again.
And a special thanks to those who accept this crap.
@@bertjesklotepino I miss the simpler days 😞
ok, so air bubble.
And you replace parts to take care of an air bubble?
Could you not bleed out the air?
@@bertjesklotepino I had trouble bleeding through the bleed valve. I never got coolant to bleed out. Pulling a vacuum worked. I changed the crossover tube which I think made an air bubble at the impeller so basically the impeller was just spinning air and could never move the bubble. Good luck
@@mcmcminicooper thanks, that makes sense.
My brother has a car like this, and he asked me to put in a new thermostat for him.
And so i did.
Before i did so, the car heater did not get warm.
And the fan kept running after switching off the engine. And it even started running prior to starting the engine.
NOW after i replaced the thermostat and with a new sensor, the car heater gets hot again.
BUT the fan does not seem to want to start.
Maybe, just maybe the temperature of the coolant was not yet hot enough for the fan to start.....
Or, i mixed up the cables and accidentally switched 2 connectors (although it is highly unlikely because i did take a picture., but maybe i did....)
The fan worked prior to the installation of the new thermostat, al be it that it kept running and started running even with a cold engine.
I have seen videos in which they say it is the fan that is broken.
What do you think?
And, if i did mix up a connector, just try to switch em around to see what it does or???
If you have any idea, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thx for these replies and in advance for any other reply.
@ I’m not in town but will check once back home but I don’t think those two connectors can be switched because they are keyed. The engine fan will come on if the AC is on regardless if the engine is cool. It is blowing air over the AC coils.
@@mcmcminicooper
First of all: I apologize for writing you a book. But i really do appreciate your responses. Muchos Gracias
Right. I did not realize that the fan would come on if the AC is on. Have to check this out.
As for the 2 connectors....
I have seen a guy replace his thermostat and for to make it easier he pulled the wire harness out of the way.
As in: all the spark plugs and connectors.
From left to right, basically.
He marked some with a dot, to make sure he would not mix em up.
1 of my connectors was marked as well, and i took a picture. And i did put it back where it was on the picture.
But it looks very similar to the other connector close to it.
And i have no clue if you can switch em. If they are keyed, then no way indeed.
But if not, they might have been switched around by other people. (since i put it back where it was on the picture)...
There was a leakage some 300 miles ago. The plastic tube behind the engine was old and had ruptured.
So, my brother took it to the garage and they replaced this pipe.
That is the only time i can imagine that they might have switched the connectors.
BUT, i will check if they are keyed to make sure if it is even possible to switch em.
They do look the same. 2 wire connectors.
Anyway, if it is possible to switch em around, i can not imagine that this would damage the fan.
But could it prevent the fan from kicking in at the right moment? I think it could.
At the moment the fan does not start spinning, not low and not high. (but have to check with AC on etc.)
I really hope this fan has not died on me , because that is another 200 euro or so.
And, there is sludge on the oil cap and in a breather pipe ontop of the engine, which to me says that there is a leak somewhere.
And if that is the case, i wonder if it is worth replacing the fan.
Btw, this is gonna sound stupid, but what about switching the hoses that go to your heater in the car. What would the problem be if you switched them around?
No heat in the car?
I forgot to mark em and put em back on the way i remembered, but i could have made a mistake there....
This will be all, sir, for sure. Otherwise i would start to look like a troll.
Btw, i did not see the x ray portion of the vid. Cool stuff. Wish i had the tech to do that kinda stuff.
Hi! Just wishing myself luck on a reply. What if I am not recieving any coolant back through the bleed screw? What could be wrong?
The bleed screw never worked for me. I counted the number of turns on my old part to know how far to back out the screw without it fall out, but still no coolant out the bleed valve. It turned out to be a big air pocket in the coolant pump so basically it was turning air and no coolant flow through the system. I bought a vacuum to pull out the air. Good luck
Thanks ! I will try the screw again! Do you know what temps the first fan comes on? Mini cooper base 2009
@@josuerivera1547 I don’t know the exact temperature but I believe it’s above 200F. Another thought is my replacement thermostat assembly was faulty where it wasn’t opening at the temperature thus no coolant from the bleed.
Great video, wonder if you could assist me with something, at 3.32 in the video there is a gold colour what looks like valve on the outside of the underside of the thermostat (not the gold part the heater part slides into), and am guessing when u push the thermostat back down that its shown at 3.54 in the video from the other side. Do you remember if this moves when u tip the part up and down at all, or even better do u still have that thermostat there to test if that part moves ? Your help would be very much appreciated. TIA.
The thermostat appears to be a solid part that slides on the heater rod. There is nothing separate externally that moves. The only thing is the bypass which is a small bearing in a cage that wobbles around when I rotate the thermostat. The whole thermostat slides on the heater rod. I should have increased the x-ray image to see what the wax chamber inside the thermostat looks like. I’ll try that and if it looks interesting, I’ll post. Btw - my install of the new thermostat assemble (another video) failed just a little beyond its 2 year warranty. It failed completely open. Oh well better open than closed. Good luck.
On the next thermostat housing replacement, i think i would drill some holes near the thermo gate to make my jcw run cooler, i want it to run below 90°C all the way rather than stay over a boiling water temperature. Whats your thoughts?
You may get an engine code because it is not getting up to temp. My thermostat was stuck open a little and the engine was running cooler. Thus I changed the thermostat assembly. The engine light would come on because it was never getting above 100C. Btw ECS makes a metal crossover tube which is a great improvement over the plastic version. I plan on doing a review on it.
It's designed to run hot
Would you say it is possible to measure the resistance of the heater element with an ordinary multimeter? I replaced my thermostat housing due to fault code 2ee5, but when trying to measuren the resistance at the two heater element connector pins, whether on the old nor on the new thermostat I get any Ohm values below infinite.
@@wolfgang6028 the heater pins (not the coolant sensor) I measure 15.3 Ohms on my old thermostat assembly. Check the scale setting on your meter. Good luck
@ thanks very much for confirming, this is helping a lot in my troubleshoot course. Since I see no ohms near to around 15, I can only hope that it’s not the dme shooting every thermostat I connect
Hi!really appreciate your video,I have a question I have a problem with my wife’s 2011 mini cooper clubman,the fan doesn’t turn on when it’s up to temperature,but it turns on when I turn on the ac and that works to bring down the temperature of the engine,do you think it could be the thermostat?
I think the fan is usually controlled by the computer. When the computer sees the engine temp getting too high, it turns on the fan. When the AC is switched on, that automatically causes the fan to run because it needs air to flow over the evaporator or condenser coils. Use an OBD2 reader (see my other videos) to see what the engine temp the computer is seeing. I am guessing the coolant temp sensor is faulty or the connector to coolant temp sensor is bad (see my other video on replacing the connector). Good luck
@@mcmcminicooper you might be right about the coolant sensor being faulty cause when I remove the connector to the sensor while the car is on the fan turns on and won’t stop till I plug her back up,thank you
Why you change the thermostat? I am facing the problem that my engine cooling is not happening when it request its taking time and my engine coolant temperature went to 115 degree centigrade to the reference value 98-105 degree . This problem created vapor in the cooling system that create pressure in the system. Its happen to you the same or there some else problem
I changed it because my thermostat was stuck open. Of the two, stuck open is better than stuck closed. I would get an error code saying that my engine wasn’t reaching temperature, engine running too cool. Sounds like Overheating and not opening fully or the impeller. That is other wacky thing about minis, the water pump or impeller is not always spinning. There is a mechanism that engages it to spin when needed which can go bad.
what can cause a problem in my car if 12v does not come from this connection and therefore the thermostat does not open and the car is boiling constantly ? Mini one 1.4 N12 2009
@@MilosDjStanojevic Not 100% sure I understand the question. The thermostat is opening and closing is a mechanical device. The sensor is for the computer which basically lights the warning light if it exceeds high temperature or if the engine doesn’t heat up fast enough. I had the thermostat stuck close (overheating) or stuck open (engine not warming). Good luck
@ then what role does the thermostat heater have ? when does it turn on?
@ great question. I thought it turned on when the engine was very cold. The Mini engine runs very inefficiently when cold and I thought if the coolant was below a specific temperature, it turns on the heater to speed up the warming of the engine. Once the engine gets to a temperature, the heater turns off. Since cold out, I’ll test this to see if this true. Look for a future video. Thanks for the question. Good luck
Have you ever thought of upgrading your thermostat to an aluminum one?
@@AlexisRodriguez-yv6sf Send me a link for the aluminum version please.
@ that’s for the n18 but they have one for the n14 and n16 as well
Very cool x-Ray👍. So the 12v you apply to open the thermostat, is that directly from the battery?
I think when you turn the heat setting inside on high, it sends a signal to a relay that applies 12V to heat the thermostat to open. I think this is why they tell you to turn the heat on when bleeding the air from cooling system. If the thermostat was closed, the air would be trapped when bleeding the system. Good luck
So the hot water Will not open the thermostat??? I u mean that it must open with 12v ????? So it’s electrical thermostat ? And the 12 v came from the ecu ?
@@LucasGstreet maybe I’m confusing it. The way I believe it works is the thermostat opens and closes when the wax heats up or cools. So it’s a mechanical thermostat. The heater in the thermostat is there to heat the engine coolant only when it’s cold to get the engine to nominal temperature. Once the coolant gets to the ideal temperature the engine likes running at, the heater turns off. I also think if you turn the heat on in the car and if the engine is cold, the heater in the thermostat turns on too to get heat faster in the car. The 12V comes from a relay that is controlled by the ecu. Hope I’m not confusing things
@ I replace a new thermostat in 2012 mini countryman and still the same problème the water rises from the reservoir and still cold how i can know that the termostat open ?
@ the water rises in the reservoir and STILL. COLD coolant?
@ yes that What happening
@@LucasGstreet I am puzzled. I can only guess the water coolant impeller is not spinning
That explains the P0597 code. It’s not my good temperature sensor, the problem is the Fricken HEATING ELEMENT!
We had a Hyundai that had a tstat failure under warranty. The thermostat module looked very similar. Now I get it. But… why? My theory is that, knowing they could save $ by casting this piece out of plastic vs aluminum, and knowing that the plastic is not as resistant to heat, they devised this way of opening the thermostat to extend the life of the plastic piece, as well as give more control (possibly for emissions?) over thermostat opening by going to the electrically heated piece. 🤔🙌
Emissions is probably one of the main reasons. I’m guessing the opening temperature set at 221F (a bit high) is another reason to improve emissions but hard on the engine and plastic parts in the long run.
I replaced this part because it was leaking but temperature went from 95 avg to 105 c , any idea why? I tried bleeding the air from the bleeder screw but doesn't seem to work
I did a couple videos on when I replaced mine. II had an air bubble trapped in the system but that caused it go over 122C. I also noticed the same thing with the average temp. I previously had an average lower engine temp but after the change out, I now have an average higher temp. The thermostat is rated at 121c to open which I think is high. I am guessing my old thermostat didn’t make a great seal when closed but the new one does. Minis tend to run hot. I think they do think for emissions.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I connected the wrong hoses. was quite surprised when temperature actually rise with the new part, but I m more relieve.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I connected the wrong hoses. was quite surprised when temperature actually rise with the new part, but I m more relieve.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I connected the wrong hoses. was quite surprised when temperature actually rise with the new part, but I m more relieve.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I connected the wrong hoses. was quite surprised when temperature actually rise with the new part, but I m more relieve.
Pls how can I tell my Thermostat is bad?
For me, my thermostat was not closing so I got an error code that the engine could not get to temperature (too cool). I imagine for others, it would be that your engine is overheating, but that could be caused a whole bunch of other things too, such as the impeller, the electronic gear that engages the impeller, or the radiator clogged. Sorry I could be better help. good luck
How can I test thermostat This very type
It's not like the old days where you can easily pull them out and drop it into boiling water to see when they open and close. You will need a OBDII reader to read you engine temperature. They should open around 120F and when they do, the temp reading will drop. You can also force the thermostat to open by turning on your car heater, which will heat the water at your thermostat and cause it to open. Good Luck!
How long did it take you to fix ur mini
A couple hours I would think if not filming and if I didn't have to do the crossover pipe or know how to do it the first time.
Did you replace pipe also
@@tm5346 yes, I replaced the crossover pipe. It was a pain in the butt, people suggested changing it too because it’s made of plastic and becomes brittle over time. See my Part 2 Install video
What brand did you buy?
I purchased mine on Rockauto. There is a wide selection and it took me awhile to pick one. I finally picked FACET 78927K {#7.8927K} (Standard Replacement) Includes Thermostat, Housing and Gasket; Includes Cable Info W/CABLE. They sold me on the welding process they use. It seems to work fine. The thermostat opens a little later than I would like but appears to open at the 221F or 105C temperature which it is rated for.
Thank you
Excellent information! 🤞I’m doing it tomorrow? Any TIPS & Don’t!
I thought the water temperature opened the thermostat
Did I miss speak in the video? For this assembly there are two ways to open the thermostat, when the engine normally heats up the coolant or by the heater element which heats the coolant in the assembly. The heater element gets power when the cabin heat is turned on. At least that is the way I thought.
Again qhy do they have to make the thermostat electronic..more problems..
Life with a Mini is never boring 😬
What temp does the therm react?
For these thermostats in second gen R56 Minis, they are rated at 105C or 220F. Much higher than typical thermostats. No sure why, but guessing for these engines, they perform better with emmissions at higher temperatures.
@@mcmcminicooper
Well this is comforting; theres no temp gauge and i had an issue with the cooling system.
Ultimately, i got a BlueDriver Bluetooth sensor to keep an eye on it.. Watched to make sure the system kicks in consistently; which it does at 221~225°F and drops below 200°F~210°F(also depends on drive mode/sport mode). But its good to know how hot its supposed tobe.