2011-2016 Mini Countryman Thermostat Housing Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 23 янв 2023
- Changing the thermostat housing on a 2011-2016 Mini Countryman. The vehicle in the video is a 2013 Mini Countryman S. The procedure will be the same for the non-turbo version.
List of tools I used:
3/8 Ratchet
T25 Torx socket
10mm socket
3-inch & 5-inch socket extensions
Pliers
Materials I used:
Drain pan
Lots of paper towels
Brake clean (cleaning engine block mating surface)
1 Gallon 50/50 all vehicle green coolant
2011 Mini Countryman
2012 Mini Countryman
2013 Mini Countryman
2014 Mini Countryman
2015 Mini Countryman
2016 Mini Countryman
Mini Thermostat
Mini Cooper Thermostat
I am not responsible for anything you do after watching the video. 
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This is probably the best video I’ve legit ever seen on this platform. The quality is amazing. The camera man has great hands. I bet he’s a smooth guy
I’ve honestly never done anything other than an oil change. I use this video and in five hours I successfully changed everything. Thanks for making this. All of my spring clamps were upside down because somebody did everything from the bottom whereas I did it from the top.
Great info! Now come and fix mine 😄
These videos need to be on any mini forum as guides. These are amazing!
Thanks!
Fantastic video. I suggest silicone grease or silicone spray for lubricating the seals. Depending on the type of rubber and plastic, petroleum products can cause deterioration over time
nicely done - appreciate the vid
Great video!
I would say it has been replaced before as the hose clips aren’t factory spring type clips
I have done this job twice along with the rear bypass coolant pipe. The T hose was swapped to copper and the elbow below the coolant reservoir cracked and was replaced also.
do you have a part number or a pic for the Cooper T hose, I'll be doing this job next week.
Thank you!
Great video! I'm about to replace the turbo water return line on my 2012 Countryman S since the t-fitting was made of cheap plastic; broke during an oil change. Hope I never have to replace the thermostat on my mini. In truth, it's probably a matter of time before it YEETS itself.
Hey Vince Clark - I did the same thing with the T-fitting. How did you disconnect the hose where the line connects to the turbo?
@Rob Brown yes, mine came with the water line from the turbo. I replaced the whole line. It was a horrible task. Fortunately I had a Bluetooth endoscope so I could watch the hoses going back onto the thermostat housing.
I've had to do the same, terrible placement for oil changes 🙄
Car Zaddy 🤤 😍
Great walk-through! I just did this job and followed along step by step. Although, the one step you are missing is the spring clip that holds the water pipe at the back of the engine. Was yours missing that part? It is a major PITA to reinstall -- there are a lot of comments about people struggling with this on the NAM forum. Thanks for making this video; it was a huge help.
I how did you reinstall it, is there a trick to it. I will be doing this job next week.
@@samavilarealestate Sort of. You will need to push it back into place while holding onto it. I think I used a needle-nose pliers to hold it and then pushed down with a screwdriver. BUT -- the biggest tip I can give you is to tie some kind of leash to the clip while you are attempting to reinstall. You will drop the clip repeatedly while trying to get it lined up in place, and inevitably it will fall into some hidden part of the engine. This happened to me and I searched for nearly an hour, from above and below, until I finally found it. So I used a length of dental floss, and then once I finally got it clipped in, just snipped off the dental floss. This saved me from losing the clip and my mind.
@@lytleric awesome tip with the string on the clip. Definitely gonna do this. Mine came off VERY easily so I hope it goes on just as easy lol
Great video! What tool did you use to get the hose clamps off? I can't get anything into the front two hoses clamps.
I used regular pliers, but I think I got lucky with how easily they came off. I would use hose clamp pliers if you're having issues - they have a lot more maneuverability for tight spaces
My engine from my Cooper S 2008 was overcooling so i replaced the thermostat. Everything worked great until one week later engine starts overcooling again. Probably new thermostat faulty for some reason. These thermostats are very fragile.
Does the new thermostat housing make a rattling noise i side when you move it around ( shake it) the old one i took out doesnt.
Yes it does rattle. This is a plastic check valve on the thermostat that allows small bubbles to pass through to allow bleeding air out of the system
@@icefire776 Oh, ok thank you. It must be an upgrade from the old one unless the old one is stuck.
Can you bleed it while the car is running or just while it's off?
You can do both, but works better while the car is running. Bleed once after you start the car, and again after the car is fully up to temperature (10-15 min)
Do you know how long it takes to do this repair? Im doing mine friday and want a ballpark of how long im looking at.
I'd say 2-3 hours. If you have squeeze clamps instead of the screw clamps shown in the video, I'd buy some hose clamp pliers
So I put this in, I had to get a thermostat harness adapter kit because the connections were different on the thermostat housing. Went to test it and now my radiator fan runs for 5 minutes after it's parked and no key in the ignition. Even if I run it for 1 minute the fan will stay on, have you seen/heard this?
@fire-nk1ir the fan staying on that long means the car thinks it's overheating. Our car doesn't have a temp gauge which makes this harder to diagnose. There are videos showing how to cycle through the menu and produce a temp gauge on the tachometer screen - I'd try that and see if the temp is showing over 221 Fahrenheit / 105 Celsius. Did you bleed the air out of the system using the little screw on the top of the housing? I'd try disconnecting and reconnecting the thermostat as well to make sure the connection is good
Do you have a part number or link handy for that housing?
I don't know the Mini OEM part but I bought the MAHLE TM46105
@@icefire776 thanks for the info!
What is the labor time on this job?
I'd say 1 hour without any issues taking off hose clamps. However, bleeding the air out of the system at the end after adding coolant may take 15-20 min depending on outside temperature. So, 1- 1.5 hours total
allow about 3 to 4 hours. this video was paused for all the hard parts. for instance you can not drain the coolant from the hoses on the bottom that he showed and radiator has no drain, those are air hoses for the turbo. so draining the coolant from the top hoses means a big mess on the ground. Also, the hose on the back side of the engine is the hardest one to disconnect even with a long specially tool. if mini had made the thermostat housing from aluminum, this leak wouldn't have happened. I wouldn't recommend this job for a home mechanic or you'll end up cursing the whole UK every 5 minutes. some of the hose clamps are very difficult to get to.
Mini seems to be at war with customers and the service industry. These issues are unacceptable for a 2016 model, 1961 model? may be.
I just got off the phone with my local mechanic.....$650....😢😢😢😢😢
SLooooooooooooow down! would be a really good video if you slowed it down a little....and now breath out.... ;O)
I hate minis
Amezinh do you have an e mail?