MINI Cooper R56 Thermostat Housing Replacement DIY for N16 Engine
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
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This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
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I had problems with the rear tube to put the pin in. Thanks to the explanation and being able to see the execution. Good execution, great video. 👍🏻
Just did this job on my 2007 mini cooper base! Thanks for the video, so helpful with disconnecting some of those harder connectors!!! A few differences between mine and this video (for anyone who might run into small differences): When I drained the lower radiator hose, it was actually a spring clamp as opposed to the worm clamp, and made it easy to take off but very hard to get back on before refilling the cooling system. If I were to do the job over, I would replace it with a worm clamp to make things easier. I slightly broke that one connector that had to be opened in half, (the one at 6:26), (wasn't sure if that opening cover even needed to be removed based on the video, the connector may be able to pull straight out with that cover still intact) but it wasn't too terrible to disconnect when i had it figured out! There are clips on the underside as well that I didn't notice at first. Best advice is to take it slowly and be careful with each individual connector. And also, if you think you'll have any problems remembering which connectors go where, just take the extra time to label! I didn't run into any problems but I read forums of people reconnecting the wiring harness improperly and getting engine codes. Same with disconnecting hoses. Most fall right into place but a few could be easily mistaken and mismatched while reconnecting. I broke a spring clamp on one of the smaller hoses that goes directly into the thermostat housing, and swapped it out for a worm clamp (don't know if this will cause issues later, but if you do this make sure that the worm clamp screw won't get in the way of anything else! I got lucky. Hardest part of the job is just removing all the connectors. Putting them back at the end is VERY easy. The part that took me the longest was cleanup from the mess the leaking thermostat made in the engine bay, and reconnecting the lower radiator hose at the end due to poor clearance and the pesky spring clamp. Refilling the coolant system was easy and quick, you can find articles on how to do it on Pelican Parts website if needed. No leaks so far! Beware that when you undo the bleeder screw you may make a mess of coolant that is hard to reach to clean up. Thanks again for the great video! P.S. for anyone wondering what coolant type to get for the mini, go to the dealer or use the Zerex G48 made by Valvoline. I searched a lot online and couldn't find a clear answer but gathered this: At the time forums were posted most, everyone recommended G-05, but there is a G-48 available made specifically for BMW/Mini & Mercedes, and its blue just like the Mini coolant from the dealer. Good luck wrenching!
thank you
Many thanks for this. I also came to the conclusion that G48 is the way to go regarding coolant type. Your post gives me peace of mind on that point.
This is not only the best video I watched on replacing the thermostat housing, but I appreciate your sense of humor.
Thank you 50sKid...you've convinced me to get my thermostat housing replaced by my mechanic...no DIY for me on this!
I appreciate this video, man. I just replaced my thermostat housing on my '10 r56 mini before watching your video and to be honest I'm glad you struggled on those electrical connectors, I was stumped as to how to disconnect most of them. I'm not the only one... THANKS!
Thanks I got this job to do on my daughter's mini which is getting passed on to my son now.
Absolutely fantastic video. Your explanation of the connectors was extremely helpful. Took us 2 1/2 hours to take everything apart and went back together even faster. I will not say it was a fun job. I don't know what sucked more... Those electrical connectors or the hose clamps!
CHEERS MATE. I CAN'T THANK U ENOUGH FOR THIS DETAILED VIDEO.
Great video. This will be the last repair on my mini so I can sell it. Only 50,000 miles and everything is breaking and I'm tired of fixing it. Leave it to BMW/mini/peugeot engine to make a 10 minute/$20 thermostat job turn into this.
I concur. same here. Mini goes after this.
What else broke on yours? I’ve had mine since 2008 and it’s been fine. 60k miles now.
You didn’t show how you got the clip back in place that you had trouble with on that bottom hose (the snap in). I’m having trouble with that clip now..How did you get back in?
This job was a pain in the ass but your video made it easier and you explained everything in detail which helped a whole lot! So thanks for making this video . I just finished changing mine
Wow Jason that's a big thermostat housing for a little Mini! :) It looks like a pain in the arse to work on.
Super helpful and made this so much easier for me this last weekend! Thank you!
The 3 thermostat-housing's mounting bolts should each be torqued to 6 ft-lb (or 8 N-M). Also, try using tape in a socket to hand-start/thread the lower bolt when installing, to avoid dropping it into oblivion. Just another recommendation that I had read, somewhere.
them little Christmas tree clips break to easy at times I think. I hope I can make my videos look as good as yours lol. keep up the good work
Excellent video well presented New mini's a nightmare .
Awesome tutorial! Thanks a bunch!
Hi, i’m getting this error: P0597 (Pending) - Thermostat Heater Control Circuit/Open
Will this means i have to replace what you replaced in the video?
Thanks!
Excelente muy bien la grabación
Hi had the same symptoms on my R56 Mini but just changed the temperature sensor which sits on the top of the thermostat housing. Part cost about £10, job done! Now (over a year later) my interior heating won't heat up so I need to figure out if that may be the thermostat housing this time? Great video!
How did you manage to put the clip back to the water pump hose ??
How do you know you get the right one that’s what I’m having trouble with I don’t want online if it’s wrong
just wanna say thanks, bout to do this, helpul
1 subscribed to your channel here from Brazil. Great video
Отличное видео!
Working on mini: "I don't know why they would make this so difficult". I changed my water pump & onto my thermostat today.
What the hell is the sensor on the bottom of the housing?
You usually do a good job with your BMW videos. This video has a major defect. Your recommendation to remove the quick release spring clamp that retains the plastic water pipe to the thermostat cost me several hours. My mind was telling me "don't do it! but I didn't listen. Finally had to saw off the connecting piece from the old thermostat, stick it in the pipe to get that spring clamp in the right position. You retracted that advice later in the video. Would have been nice if you had edited that bad advice out.
My stupid every time I work on one of these POS cars I regret it. I think I've learned my lesson.
nice video man! quick question did you also replace the actual thermostat or just the housing?
The thermostat is inside the housing I believe on this.
I have a mini 2011 r56 with an elbow with the temperature sensor leaking. does this repair helps my issue?
I have a mini 2012 in the morning when I turn it on, the radiator fan turns on, I drive it and it does not turn off, the fan turns off after 5 minutes, will be the problem???? Tanks 50sKid
quite likely the coolant temp sensor needs replacing. It's on the top of the housing that was replaced in this video. I've had to replace 2 on my daughters mini... the chines ones don't seem to last very long... creates the symptoms you are experiencing.
i have a problem now, the blower dont turn in off and dont have any codes, the engine temperature is normal, up to 105° and blower turn in on but not turn in off. i dont know if is the purge or other fault but all is ok, dont have codes. help!
Thanks for this video...very helpful. I will undergo this mini N14 nightmare soon...and kill a few other birds in the process (e.g. oil filter housing gasket replacement, oil cooler gasket replacement, after-market turbo blanket, after-market S.S. flexible oil feed line to turbo, turbo oil return line with billet flange/o ring/heat shield , water pump, friction "tensioner" to water pump "pulley", dirty side oil catch can, new G48 coolant, new 5W-30 syn. oil/filter).
Already bought all of the parts and extra tools. I figure the arm and hand cuts will heal in about 2 weeks if I do all of this at the same time! I plan on doing it all without putting the front of the car in maintenance mode. Seems do-able within a day and I have the extensions and ratchets to manage...I hope.
Already installed an after-market cast Aluminum valve cover (with new hardware and gaskets) to complete satisfaction (US$160 on ALiEx, delivered). Some HT RTV in the clean side gasket corners...90 inch-pounds of torque...and proper torque sequence...NO oil weeps. No oil leaks! Installed a clean side catch-can, as well.
The engine compartment is cramped...but these videos really show that will a bit of organization/patience, familiarization with the tricks, taking lots of pics with the phone, good lighting, and some useful tools...this type of DIY work is manageable.
How much is to do the replacement
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You!
I bet you it won't fix the issue. Faulty thermostat sensor on that will cause cylinder 4 to log a superknock code on rare occasions.
Cold start issue is related to the High Pressure Fuel pump, the cold start compensation valve will be out of wack, there is a way to test it via the special tool (a specially angled rod).
The most recent revised model of the thermostat housing has a separate wiring adapter that can be ordered for this engine, so it matches up.
To make it easier, just douse the tubes with silicone spray, you can literally pull off the hoses.
This is the easiest thermostat to do, being a Peugeot engine, they also used it on earlier pre-facelift 1 series F20.
On that model, the thermostat is relocated and in its position, they substituted a outlet pipe, this is due to the limited spacing on the firewall because its a longitudinal mount for rear wheel drive.
If your fingers are long enough, you can get some of the bolts from below the car raising your hand above the gearbox, feeling the bolts with your ratchet.
3 ways of tackling that one:
1. Remove the High pressure pump.
2. Attempt to get 2 of the bolts from underneath the car.
3. Lower the transmission support brace to get more room.
The generic scanners are near useless and when the HPP won't log anything when its starting to fail, makes the thermostat housing replacement kind of a waste of time, until the seal leaks. Throw parts at the car when a diagnosis is confirmed.
Thank excellent video
And you did all that labor and did not change the rear plastic tubing on the back that connects to pump housing witch fail more than the thermostat housing it self😕😕😕
If you go buy the BMW repair manual, if you can see it take it off, disconect it
Nice to hear someone complain about working on these cars. I think they are a PITA.
I thought you change the thermostat
Video Super 😊
This is under a bulletin mini has out now . go to a mini dealer .
how to remove the transport mode of my Mini Cooper
Hi , in Argentina are parts Nota original , from Triciclo , is god for mini tanks You..
Every time I deliver parts to my local BMW main dealer, they have at least one mini in the shop with a blown engine. I wouldn't have one .
they consume a lot of oil so people run them dry and blow them up
WOW, you made a meal of that,
I found the following part numbers for the sensor:
13627535068
13628602086
As he said, there are different versions of it.
ive a peugeot 207 with same/similar engine
I would've just disconnected it at the main computer and pulled it to the left and played it all on the valve cover just a couple down by the thermostat itself working harder isnt working smarter
No hace falta sacar todo eso
c'est fait exprès qu'ils ne nettoient pas le compartiment moteur,, même avec le paquet de feuille morte,, c'est pour dire que nous sommes en automne ?,,,, Heureusement que je ne travaille pas comme ça !!!
The hose that go's to water pump from the back off the housing well break or batter get new one if u doing the housing and that hose is around 200$from mini what a rip off!!
Clean the leaves
Theres no actual thermostat as such then
the thermostats come built into the housing. To replace a thermostat you have to replace the housing...
your dam video buffering all the time whyyyyyyyyyyyy!!
BMW stupid engineer.... cheap plastic and stupid engineer is the worst combinații. There is a bmw motor mount on Peugeot 308...is a monument of stupidity there..
Buy Japanese