You're a cool, laid back dude. Keep those turbo videos coming. Get some review videos of the turbo builds from your turbo builder guy as well. Get some funny content in there, I know you're funny. Seen your cousins video with you in it. Got a 600hp turbo busa just got upgraded myself.
I really appreciate it 🙏🏿. Thanks for the advice. Will do!!! 600hp busa huh😳 that's some serious ponies! When I change my turbo I'll be happy with 450ish. I say that now. Lol
@@MIGHTYDQ I'm subscribed brother, can't wait for more turbo busa content. Lookup Hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org/forum/ You'll get all the info on turbo you need there.
There's a good chance that that turbo is blowing oil because of how low it is in comparison to the oil sump. If you take the level of the oil in the sump into consideration the turbo is almost at the same level. Usually an application with a turbo that low you need a scavenge pump in order to prevent oil blowing past the seals in the turbo.
The turbo is at the same level as before. BUT! I figured out the problem. The oil feed line didn't have a restrictor so over time the seals just couldn't hold up... I really appreciate your input though 🙏🏿
@@MIGHTYDQ The restrictor is likely needed to compensate for how low the turbo is and it's reduced ability to drain. I'm glad you were able to get it working though. Fixed is fixed :-)
@@DoRC the restrictor is only need for ball bearing turbos. They don't require as much oil as a journal bearing turbo. So it had way to much oil pressure on the seals. I fixed it by buying another turbo. 🤣 I was going to swap it anyway. This just sped up the process
I have a turbo busa and can say the reason the oil is in your charge pipe is because you don't have a scavenge pump running off your turbo to pump the oil back into the engine; you just rely on a gravity feed which is not good enough to clear all the oil out of the compressor. Without a scavenge pump you cant prevent the incoming oil from accumulating and blowing past the compressor's seals inside the turbo; therefore making its way into the compressor housing and charge pipe.
Thank you for the info and advice. We figured out why it was blowing oil. The oil feed didn't the restrictor that's needed for a ball bearing turbo. I have a new turbo now and I do plan to do the scavenge pump. Thanks for the comment bro🙏🏿 What turbo are you running?
It works fine without scavenge pump if you have the turbo above your oil level, like I have. Small Mitsubishi Bigger turbo ends up below oil level because of the size
Might wanna change your turbo packing . I love the setup. Busy buying my first busa. And its a great machine. I want to turbocharge it just for the respect. I wanna enjoy it as an icon of succes and status. Buildyear 2007
You'll definitely get the respect. Enjoy it in its stock form though. I ran into a bunch of issues when I went turbo. But if you do it right the first time it'll last you
It's because of where u have it tapped for oil return. U never tape the return at the very bottom of the oil pan. It causes turbo to fill up with oil. Because it can't get rid of oil . Retap the return line higher up the pan
@@H-M-78 engine oil level is not to high. Well according to the site glass. I have to lean if over a little to see it. BUT when I take the oil line off from the turbo oil comes out like it can be to high. It's strange. You don't think the turbo seals could be bad?
@@dynagrego found the problem. The turbo didn't have an oil Restrictor. Ball bearing turbos require them. So over time the seals couldn't hold the oil in
Restrict the oil pressure going to the turbo more it doesn’t need that much oil running through it at all I know that sounds crazy but you running a high oil pressure at the turbo will definitely cause the oil to go through the chargepipe like that I learned that the hard way
SOOO I HAVE A 08 BKING I WANNA ADD 2 OF THE SMALLEST TURBOS I CAN FIND KEEP IN MIND THIS IS A BUILD FOR LOOKS OVER POWER BUT IM WANTING TO RUN MAYBE 2 TO 3 PSI PER TURBO AND IF U SEEN THE BKING I WANT 2 SO THEY FIT AGAINST THE GASTANK WHERE THE TURNSIGNALS GO WOULD THE STOCK MOTOR BE FINE ON 5TO 6 PSI WITH A FULL ECU MAPPING
I would put a oil scavenger pump on the bike. It will keep you from worrying about the turbo drain. That drain dose no look well set up. It may have worked for a bit but I would not trust it long term. I have had turbos leak oil on be because bad drainage.
Turned out being to much oil pressure because of the oil feed line not having a restrictor. My new turbo is a journal bearing turbo so it should be fine. But most definitely going to run a scavenge pump. Thank you for your input 🙏🏿
What year is this bike? im looking to upgrade to a busa and interested in slapping a turbo on it later. I see they did upgrades onthe 08 and up, but i was looking at an 06, Seems like all they did was a piston upgrade from what i can see from the spec difference, but i havnt done enough research to know. Pros and cons of a turbo 06 busa? open ears to any input if you have experience if not i dont need your opinion on somthing you dont know anything about.
This is a 99. The bore is bigger on the gen 2. Didn't make a huge amount of hp more. An 06 would be great to do so and cheaper than a gen 2. Pros are it's fast of course but the cons are you'll most likely go through a set of pistons of you don't do it right. Spacer plate is a must if you're running more than 4psi of boost. And Better rich than lean. Remember that. Trust me I know.
Yup! It's 40th anniversary fairing but the bike is a 9. That's why the frame is this color. It was the first and only year copper color but I crashed it awhile back and switched it up
@@fukcg00gle95 everything works without modification except the gas tank because they went from external fuel pump to internal. So I had to buy a fuel pump block off plate
Thanks. And you're right. But the turbo I had at that time was to big. And with the spacer plate lowering the compression, it only made 235 at 10lbs. It was close to 300 around 14lbs. With the Garrett T3 t04e i have now it should be around 270ish hp at 8lbs🤞🏿
You don't even need secondary injectors on a Gen 1 for a "stage 2". A reputable tuner can tune the ECU to run 850, 1000, 1200cc primary injectors (just replace the factory ones).
Thanks for the response. Was that just in parts? Looks like a fair amount of work. My concern is finding someone that knows what the hell they're doing.
@@johnmcgrath3907 yes. All used parts. Probably can find a lot of used parts on the "hayabusa buy/sell/trade" page on Facebook. And yes. Gotta find someone that knows the formula. Do it right the first time you won't spend money to replace parts
Got me dying with the theatricals 🤣😂🤣 good stuff man!
🤣 thank you💯💯
@@MIGHTYDQ keep 🔫!!!
@@akordaddikt1812 🙌🏿
LOVE THE SOUND EFFECTS...
Most definitely subscriber I have not saw another video on RUclips that does this this man is a true 🐐
🙌🏿 appreciate you💯
Glad I found this video. Thanks for making it.
@@bart189 appreciate it thanks for watching 🙏🏿
You're a cool, laid back dude. Keep those turbo videos coming. Get some review videos of the turbo builds from your turbo builder guy as well. Get some funny content in there, I know you're funny. Seen your cousins video with you in it. Got a 600hp turbo busa just got upgraded myself.
I really appreciate it 🙏🏿. Thanks for the advice. Will do!!! 600hp busa huh😳 that's some serious ponies! When I change my turbo I'll be happy with 450ish. I say that now. Lol
@@MIGHTYDQ I'm subscribed brother, can't wait for more turbo busa content. Lookup Hayabusa.org
www.hayabusa.org/forum/
You'll get all the info on turbo you need there.
@@AbDeep07 right on!👍🏿👍🏿
Great video but I got to say he’s a humble good great guy👍👍my respects
🙌🏿 appreciate it
There's a good chance that that turbo is blowing oil because of how low it is in comparison to the oil sump. If you take the level of the oil in the sump into consideration the turbo is almost at the same level. Usually an application with a turbo that low you need a scavenge pump in order to prevent oil blowing past the seals in the turbo.
The turbo is at the same level as before. BUT! I figured out the problem. The oil feed line didn't have a restrictor so over time the seals just couldn't hold up... I really appreciate your input though 🙏🏿
@@MIGHTYDQ The restrictor is likely needed to compensate for how low the turbo is and it's reduced ability to drain. I'm glad you were able to get it working though. Fixed is fixed :-)
@@DoRC the restrictor is only need for ball bearing turbos. They don't require as much oil as a journal bearing turbo. So it had way to much oil pressure on the seals. I fixed it by buying another turbo. 🤣 I was going to swap it anyway. This just sped up the process
nice guy... now i want also build a turbo busa hell yeah!
DO IT!!!💪🏿
I have a turbo busa and can say the reason the oil is in your charge pipe is because you don't have a scavenge pump running off your turbo to pump the oil back into the engine; you just rely on a gravity feed which is not good enough to clear all the oil out of the compressor.
Without a scavenge pump you cant prevent the incoming oil from accumulating and blowing past the compressor's seals inside the turbo; therefore making its way into the compressor housing and charge pipe.
Thank you for the info and advice. We figured out why it was blowing oil. The oil feed didn't the restrictor that's needed for a ball bearing turbo. I have a new turbo now and I do plan to do the scavenge pump. Thanks for the comment bro🙏🏿
What turbo are you running?
It works fine without scavenge pump if you have the turbo above your oil level, like I have. Small Mitsubishi
Bigger turbo ends up below oil level because of the size
Thanks buddy,
This has helped A LOT... thank you
🙌🏿 glad I could help bro
Great informative video Happy holidays from FabzRustRider UK 🇬🇧 love Hayabusa
Thank you sir. Happy holidays!
Nice setup I got a mitsubishi eclipse turbo I'm want put on my buds but that's a long turn goal. But keep the vids coming bro!!!💪🏾💪🏾😎😎
Nice! I wanted one of those. Is that the gsx? And thanks I really appreciate it 🙏🏿
Very good information bro .
Thanks for sharing 💪❣️
No problem. That's for watching 🙌🏿
Might wanna change your turbo packing . I love the setup. Busy buying my first busa. And its a great machine.
I want to turbocharge it just for the respect. I wanna enjoy it as an icon of succes and status. Buildyear 2007
You'll definitely get the respect. Enjoy it in its stock form though. I ran into a bunch of issues when I went turbo. But if you do it right the first time it'll last you
It's because of where u have it tapped for oil return. U never tape the return at the very bottom of the oil pan. It causes turbo to fill up with oil. Because it can't get rid of oil . Retap the return line higher up the pan
Appreciate the info.
No problem
Thanks for the info I’m thinking about turbocharging my Honda cbr1000
🙏🏿 no problem. Turbo cbr1000 should be insane
Hi,I think the oil in the turbo is because the oil is not draining well into the pan. Maybe need a mechanical oil pump to return the oil.
That's strange. It didn't start doing this until after I swapped out my rods. Everything else is the same. But I'll look into that. Thank you
Turbo must be above oil level if not using oil pump to return the oil. Check the engine oil level so it's not to high.
@@H-M-78 engine oil level is not to high. Well according to the site glass. I have to lean if over a little to see it. BUT when I take the oil line off from the turbo oil comes out like it can be to high. It's strange. You don't think the turbo seals could be bad?
@@MIGHTYDQ there are no turbo seals.Install a scavenge pump.
@@dynagrego found the problem. The turbo didn't have an oil Restrictor. Ball bearing turbos require them. So over time the seals couldn't hold the oil in
How did you stop the oil from backing up into the turbo
💪🏾👍🏾
✊🏿
Add a one way valve on the return oil line and a scavenge pump to fix the oil issue.
Turned out to be too much oil pressure. Didn't have an oil restrictor and over time it started pushing the oil through the seal
Restrict the oil pressure going to the turbo more it doesn’t need that much oil running through it at all I know that sounds crazy but you running a high oil pressure at the turbo will definitely cause the oil to go through the chargepipe like that I learned that the hard way
Thanks bro. Yea we figured it out. Ended up swapping the turbo also
SOOO I HAVE A 08 BKING I WANNA ADD 2 OF THE SMALLEST TURBOS I CAN FIND KEEP IN MIND THIS IS A BUILD FOR LOOKS OVER POWER BUT IM WANTING TO RUN MAYBE 2 TO 3 PSI PER TURBO AND IF U SEEN THE BKING I WANT 2 SO THEY FIT AGAINST THE GASTANK WHERE THE TURNSIGNALS GO WOULD THE STOCK MOTOR BE FINE ON 5TO 6 PSI WITH A FULL ECU MAPPING
@@crazycarl4632 I would at least do a cylinder spacer. It's insurance in case there's a boost spike or you just push it to hard
How did you stop the oil from backing up into your turbo. I am having the same problem
The seal was bad from not running a restrictor. Ended up getting a new one
I would put a oil scavenger pump on the bike. It will keep you from worrying about the turbo drain. That drain dose no look well set up. It may have worked for a bit but I would not trust it long term. I have had turbos leak oil on be because bad drainage.
Turned out being to much oil pressure because of the oil feed line not having a restrictor. My new turbo is a journal bearing turbo so it should be fine. But most definitely going to run a scavenge pump. Thank you for your input 🙏🏿
What year is this bike? im looking to upgrade to a busa and interested in slapping a turbo on it later. I see they did upgrades onthe 08 and up, but i was looking at an 06, Seems like all they did was a piston upgrade from what i can see from the spec difference, but i havnt done enough research to know. Pros and cons of a turbo 06 busa? open ears to any input if you have experience if not i dont need your opinion on somthing you dont know anything about.
This is a 99. The bore is bigger on the gen 2. Didn't make a huge amount of hp more. An 06 would be great to do so and cheaper than a gen 2. Pros are it's fast of course but the cons are you'll most likely go through a set of pistons of you don't do it right. Spacer plate is a must if you're running more than 4psi of boost. And Better rich than lean. Remember that. Trust me I know.
Is that the 2003 40th anniversary edition fairings? Just curious because that's what I have but the frame/swingarm are black. Awesome bike! 👍
Yup! It's 40th anniversary fairing but the bike is a 9. That's why the frame is this color. It was the first and only year copper color but I crashed it awhile back and switched it up
@@MIGHTYDQ
Really? So the gen 1 & 2 can swap fairings? I didn't know that.
Interesting...
@@fukcg00gle95 everything works without modification except the gas tank because they went from external fuel pump to internal. So I had to buy a fuel pump block off plate
How do you put 3 bar map sensor on a first GEN Hayabusa
It goes from your fuel controller module "power commander" or whatever you use and to your throttle body. So when it detects boost it adds fuel
Wow there's a lot going on in your bike! Props to the build(er)! Also 8 pounds of boost on a gen1, should be getting you close to 300 crank hp, no?!
Thanks. And you're right. But the turbo I had at that time was to big. And with the spacer plate lowering the compression, it only made 235 at 10lbs. It was close to 300 around 14lbs. With the Garrett T3 t04e i have now it should be around 270ish hp at 8lbs🤞🏿
That's cool man! did you set up the microtech? Is it complicated?
It wasn't to bad. Run power to it like a power commander and wire into the secondary injectors an 3 bar map sensor.
You don't even need secondary injectors on a Gen 1 for a "stage 2". A reputable tuner can tune the ECU to run 850, 1000, 1200cc primary injectors (just replace the factory ones).
Is the lower compression noticeable before boost loads, less power than normal under 6000rpm?
Yea it's definitely noticeable. The bike feels like a big 750cc until boost hits. Well maybe a little stronger than a 750 but once it makes boost 🚀
The oil return line is too low in the oil sump so the oil can't drain out of the turbo
It turned out to be to much oil pressure. It didn't have a restrictor
Did you did you open up a ring gap on your turbo boots
It ended up being the oil feed line not having a restrictor. To much oil pressure
Dude hilarious.
Total cost?
I pieced mine together for under 2k. Full kits going for 5k new. People on the Facebook busa page selling used ones for decent prices
Dang q just realized mike myke says he will gap u but yet even if he bring the SC he will never beat a turbo busa thats fully built
I'd give him a gaptism on the Busa. Lol
@@MIGHTYDQ lmao 😂 facts tho
What was the total cost?
About 2300 originally
Thanks for the response. Was that just in parts? Looks like a fair amount of work. My concern is finding someone that knows what the hell they're doing.
@@johnmcgrath3907 yes. All used parts. Probably can find a lot of used parts on the "hayabusa buy/sell/trade" page on Facebook. And yes. Gotta find someone that knows the formula. Do it right the first time you won't spend money to replace parts
Needs restrictor because a busa has 100psi oil pressure
I figured that out. But went with a smaller turbo to boost sooner