Great vid man.. working on my b8 now, quick question.. this may sound silly but how to you jack the car up? Right now i jack it by the pinch welds but theres no room to slide a jackstand there. so i place the jackstand by the control arm and the frame.. I don't know if this is the right way to do it just asking if you have a better way to jack and place the jack stands.
Nowadays I just use my quickjacks (I've got a review on it on my channel here) but for the B8 that I care a *little* less about, I'll jack the car up from the front subframe in the middle of the car and I'll slip my jack stands onto the jack points along the frame. But, I have a set of V-style rubber jack stand pads (also have a vid of those on the channel) to sit on the jack stand arms and protect the pinch weld. I even use the jack pad adapters when jacking up one corner of the car. Always be protectin' the pinch welds.
@@FigureItAudi thanks for the quick reply.. i appreciate it.. next time your down there on your b8 snap a pic for me of where you jack in the front if you don't mind.. my undercarriage is mostly covere d in plastic so i just want to be sure.. before i put the jack through my floor boards. lmao.. thanks again my guy
If your going to do a brake job do it right. Follow all recommended processes by SAE (Society Of Automotive Engineers). When pushing the piston back into the caliper crack the bread screw and push all of the fluid out. The piston will go back into the caliper easily as well. Brake fluid is made to hold water and will rust a metal or cast caliper. Brake fluid will also boil in the caliper and it will brake down. Alway uses the correct DOT brake fluid. With Audi it is DOT 4 fluid, Audi recommend changing every two years. Second, the pins for the pin slides should be removed and cleaned and new lubricant applied. Replace the dust boots if needed. Inspect the boot around the caliper piston, if torn it or the caliper will need to be replaced.. Some Audi OEM pads have adhesive on them to stick to the caliper this is to keep the pad from dragging on the rotor.
Can someone please tell me which wires should be power or ground to retrofit these 2007 D2 A8L calipers to another car? Which of the smaller wires are signal/trigger wires to activate the electromagnetic solenoid and clamp the rotor? Thank you
Great information, really appreciate the video. Wondering how many amps your trickle charger has? I'm about to buy one but want to make sure it's capable enough for doing the rear brakes on my B8.5 via VCDS. Thanks.
Brilliant video thank you, very informative. I have a question regarding the rears. I am also changing the calipers and brake hose. Would it be wise to do one side at a time and bleed. Then repeat the whole procedure on the other side and bleed? Thanks
Bleed once at the end! Especially because typically you will bleed the corners in order of furthest to closest to the master cylinder, and it's not a terribly fun job, so just do it once with confidence. Thanks for watching
Thank you for your fast response. Just for clarity is advised I bleed all 4 corners in sequence after doing both rears or just the 2 rear in sequence. Many thanks again.
@@martyj200 Even if you're only replacing the rear lines and calipers, I would still bleed all corners just to be sure air didn't travel up the lines from the rear and create a void somewhere further up the system. Realistically you'll only be losing maybe 1/4-1/2 a cup of fluid in doing that so it's worth the extra effort and cost of materials. I imagine you would have purchased a litre of brake fluid to do your job so you may as well use it.
Hey Mark - Good Q: No, in fact I'd say they are as dusty or even worse. Good pads, but the wheels are basically covered in a brown cake all the time, which says a lot considering the wheels are black.
couple notes .. putting a lot of grease in guide pins is not a good idea.... it will be creating extra pressure inside boot and will be trying to escape....you can put anti-seize grease on back of brake pads but not lube...as well as putting lube in brake pad springs is not recommended because it will collect grime and dust in them and might cause them to stuck/move more hard. other then that job done well. partwise i like Zimmermann rotors and textar pads...but it is a choice of taste
Valid - I do like my grease. You're right about the boots: while prepping the pins I did have too much new grease on them at first which caused a suction effect inside the carrier. I removed some grease and worked the pins with the boot on while lifting the edge until they could slide freely and without pressure resistance.
When you find oil in the inter cooler hoses, would you replace the PCV valve? Or is oil in the inter cooler hoses normal? Also, I would love a video explanation on Camshaft position sensor and Crankshaft position sensor. Thank you for the helpful videos as always!
please also show how to service the transmission and differentials. what fluids and quantity? specific tools used? my audi dealership said the fluids never have to be changed.....i am calling BS.
The 21mm looks small, more like an 18mm. I disagree with the first commenter, I worked in car repair from 2007 to 2009 and we used a product called " sill glide" basically grease, as you did in this video. The glue on the backside of the pad that you experienced is exactly that. It helps with sequel and chatter. I have also used this kind of stuff made by Permatex. Your videos are enjoyable, informative and calming. Mostly because of the way you speak 👌.
I cut some footage where I measured out the remaining pad and rotor thickness with my digital caliper and the fronts were toast. Rears were pretty fresh though. Plus, if you were local, I'd give 'em to you for free.
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Thanks for this video. I just did rear brakes on my 2014 allroad and followed your VCDS instructions, made the job a breeze.
Like seeing a local Albertan turning wrench on there B8, let alone one on RUclips. Good video!
thanks a lot for the tutorial! subscribed & liked the video
Great little overview just wondered why you didn’t take the opportunity to pain the callipers and hangers.
Great vid man.. working on my b8 now, quick question.. this may sound silly but how to you jack the car up? Right now i jack it by the pinch welds but theres no room to slide a jackstand there. so i place the jackstand by the control arm and the frame.. I don't know if this is the right way to do it just asking if you have a better way to jack and place the jack stands.
Nowadays I just use my quickjacks (I've got a review on it on my channel here) but for the B8 that I care a *little* less about, I'll jack the car up from the front subframe in the middle of the car and I'll slip my jack stands onto the jack points along the frame. But, I have a set of V-style rubber jack stand pads (also have a vid of those on the channel) to sit on the jack stand arms and protect the pinch weld. I even use the jack pad adapters when jacking up one corner of the car. Always be protectin' the pinch welds.
@@FigureItAudi thanks for the quick reply.. i appreciate it.. next time your down there on your b8 snap a pic for me of where you jack in the front if you don't mind.. my undercarriage is mostly covere
d in plastic so i just want to be sure.. before i put the jack through my floor boards. lmao.. thanks again my guy
You are a textbook sir, thank you for the well calculated demonstration. I would be interested to know what you do for work...
I'm just a corporate stooge that learns a little more every time I step into the garage.
If your going to do a brake job do it right. Follow all recommended processes by SAE (Society Of Automotive Engineers). When pushing the piston back into the caliper crack the bread screw and push all of the fluid out. The piston will go back into the caliper easily as well. Brake fluid is made to hold water and will rust a metal or cast caliper. Brake fluid will also boil in the caliper and it will brake down. Alway uses the correct DOT brake fluid. With Audi it is DOT 4 fluid, Audi recommend changing every two years. Second, the pins for the pin slides should be removed and cleaned and new lubricant applied. Replace the dust boots if needed. Inspect the boot around the caliper piston, if torn it or the caliper will need to be replaced.. Some Audi OEM pads have adhesive on them to stick to the caliper this is to keep the pad from dragging on the rotor.
A ignição / vcds ficam ligados durante todo o processo? Obrigado
Não, o VCDS só funciona enquanto o motor-freio está sendo operado.
Can someone please tell me which wires should be power or ground to retrofit these 2007 D2 A8L calipers to another car? Which of the smaller wires are signal/trigger wires to activate the electromagnetic solenoid and clamp the rotor? Thank you
Great information, really appreciate the video. Wondering how many amps your trickle charger has? I'm about to buy one but want to make sure it's capable enough for doing the rear brakes on my B8.5 via VCDS. Thanks.
Brilliant video thank you, very informative. I have a question regarding the rears. I am also changing the calipers and brake hose. Would it be wise to do one side at a time and bleed. Then repeat the whole procedure on the other side and bleed? Thanks
Bleed once at the end! Especially because typically you will bleed the corners in order of furthest to closest to the master cylinder, and it's not a terribly fun job, so just do it once with confidence. Thanks for watching
Thank you for your fast response.
Just for clarity is advised I bleed all 4 corners in sequence after doing both rears or just the 2 rear in sequence. Many thanks again.
@@martyj200 Even if you're only replacing the rear lines and calipers, I would still bleed all corners just to be sure air didn't travel up the lines from the rear and create a void somewhere further up the system. Realistically you'll only be losing maybe 1/4-1/2 a cup of fluid in doing that so it's worth the extra effort and cost of materials. I imagine you would have purchased a litre of brake fluid to do your job so you may as well use it.
Thanks again for your advice spot on
You mentioned that the OEM pads were dusty, and that these were supposed to release less dust... Did you find these ones cleaner?
Hey Mark - Good Q: No, in fact I'd say they are as dusty or even worse. Good pads, but the wheels are basically covered in a brown cake all the time, which says a lot considering the wheels are black.
couple notes .. putting a lot of grease in guide pins is not a good idea.... it will be creating extra pressure inside boot and will be trying to escape....you can put anti-seize grease on back of brake pads but not lube...as well as putting lube in brake pad springs is not recommended because it will collect grime and dust in them and might cause them to stuck/move more hard. other then that job done well. partwise i like Zimmermann rotors and textar pads...but it is a choice of taste
Valid - I do like my grease. You're right about the boots: while prepping the pins I did have too much new grease on them at first which caused a suction effect inside the carrier. I removed some grease and worked the pins with the boot on while lifting the edge until they could slide freely and without pressure resistance.
But them on my Q7. Best money spent. Dealer wanted $700 per axle. Some overachiever at the factory really torqued the caliper bolts.
When you find oil in the inter cooler hoses, would you replace the PCV valve? Or is oil in the inter cooler hoses normal? Also, I would love a video explanation on Camshaft position sensor and Crankshaft position sensor. Thank you for the helpful videos as always!
please also show how to service the transmission and differentials.
what fluids and quantity? specific tools used?
my audi dealership said the fluids never have to be changed.....i am calling BS.
Ya the dealership tried to charge $700 U.S. dollars for just the back pads and rotors.
That’s Factory glue on front brake calipers
Did he say “twerked” down to Newton meters?🤔
The 21mm looks small, more like an 18mm. I disagree with the first commenter, I worked in car repair from 2007 to 2009 and we used a product called " sill glide" basically grease, as you did in this video. The glue on the backside of the pad that you experienced is exactly that. It helps with sequel and chatter. I have also used this kind of stuff made by Permatex. Your videos are enjoyable, informative and calming. Mostly because of the way you speak 👌.
I would buy your old brake rotors if you were local 😂
I cut some footage where I measured out the remaining pad and rotor thickness with my digital caliper and the fronts were toast. Rears were pretty fresh though. Plus, if you were local, I'd give 'em to you for free.