How to replace fuel filter | DIY Audi A4 B8 2.0 TFSI
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- A step by step guide to remove and replacement the fuel filter from the fuel pump assembly found within the gas tank in the 2009-2012 Audi A4 2.0.
OEM Parts used:
8K0201511A - Fuel Filter
4F0201375 - Union Nut
4F0919133B - Fuel Pump Seal
4L0886373 x 2 - Seat Grommets
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
02:55 - Prepping the fuel system
04:21 - Fuel filter replacement
13:03 - Inspecting the used "lifetime" filter 
Авто/Мото
Very grateful for this video, I changed that filter thanks to you. The only problem I had was unscrewing this plastic nut with screwdriver and hammer - took about one hour, very annoying. Two things I would like to warn you guys. Be careful with gas leaking from the pump and filter while taking out because it damaged soundproofing material under my back seat - I suggest to secure it with cardboard or sth. Moreover, I disconnected my battery and opened all doors before I started to do anything. That's because I know the case when during this procedure gasoline concentration into cabin led to explosion when roof lights turned on - sounds crazy but it happened. Stay safe;)
So glad to find a Canadian based DIY tuner like yourself... More relatable, and knowing that I can source what you source is a great comfort. Like very much how you're much like us Saturday driveway DIYers, as in mechanically inclined, but not a certified mechanic, so you speak my language. I've been tinkering with my cars for decades, but just last year acquired a used Audi, so your expertise is invaluable.. It's a different beast!... I like your 'Dealer/DIYer' bit... look forward to more... like saving some money!... especially when I know I can do it, just like to see it done once to build confidence... Keep it up!.. Cheers!..
Hi Mark, really appreciate the comment and welcome to the Audi club. You will love and hate it :). Thanks again.
Your video really helped me to do the replacement on S5 B8. To unscrew the cover, I used the BGS 6767 tool which is really suitable. Thanks to this it I had no difficulty unscrewing.
Awesome, and thanks for adding the detail about the tool and our community knowledge. The union nut is the sole curse of this project.
Great DIY. One thing you forgot to mention or show, was to put back the fuse for the Fuel Pump. I'm sure that's logical to reinsert but then again, this is the internet.
Very helpful. Thank you for creating content that helps the community!
Nice video ! Concise and to the point .
I imagine for b9 the process and Location should be the same. Since for start I managed to change the motor oil and filter, I believe this “next step” in my diy small service adventure shouldnt be a problem. 😂 thank you for the vid!
This was close enough to follow for a USDM B8.5 2.0T allroad. I ground down a medium-sized flat head screwdriver to make the tip dull for the union nut; chisels and sharper screwdrivers would eventually break the ribs off the nut while loosening.
I poured out the fuel in the pump basket as there was sediment in the bottom. After reassembly, priming, and starting, the sputtered and ran very rough for 20 seconds then smoothed out, presumably after the low-pressure line refilled. There might be a VCDS output to run the in-tank pump longer to purge air.
Great video , very Helpful
Thank you so very much, Small helpful hint for the neighborhood. Have a friend hammer one side while you do the other, that way it unfreezes much easier and quicker. That way you won’t be screaming in your stripped backseat wondering will I ever get this thing off.
Nicely done. I haven't been able to justify getting the OEM tool for that nut.
I had to look it up and it is quite the difference in price for the fuel filters. (B8 vs B8.5). The B6/B7 filters are much easier to replace.
This filter set up reminds me of mid 2000's Subaru. The filter element was hard baked into the plastic fuel pump housing. To replace the filter it required a who new assembly. The work around was to remove your old assembly and gut the old filter and by pass it. Then you just added an inline filter (from Subaru go figure) under the hood prior to the fuel rail.
Thank You very good Video!!!
Thank you sir! Sub'd!
13:21 Three numbers inside an oval is usually the Bosch factory location code.
great video my filter was full of fur almost like hairs
Is there a kit to relocate it to somewhere more accessible? I heard there’s one for the S4
Thank you for sharing this video. You helped a young female getting a visual of this work (not that I would do it). I have an Audi 2013 with 130k miles. Would you say its almost the same process to replace filter? .. My car has started showing symptoms and the mechanic said it was the fuel pump. It turns on fine, drives, fine, but when I go the store that second attempt to ignite the car struggles to turn on and then it starts smelling like gas. Eventually it turns on and it somewhat shakes a bit. it is so weird. I showed the mechanic videos so I can better explain myself. The mechanic recommends replacing the whole fuel pump assembly and not just the filter by the symptoms that my car displays. What are your thoughts?
Because of your year, you actually don't have much of a choice when it comes to replacing the filter; the filter for your assembly isn't sold on it's own. You can replace the entire assembly, or most of the assembly (so, may as well do it the whole thing). Yes, the general process of removing and re-installing the assembly would be the same. Otherwise, I can't offer an opinion on the symptoms vs. recommendation because I am only an enthusiast and this is one of those situations where you shouldn't trust the guy on youtube more than your mechanic :)
@@FigureItAudi good deal. Thank you so much. That helped clarify whether replacing just the filter or the whole thing (assembly) .. I don’t have a choice.
I’d say you would get much better fuel economy by cleaning the intakes from carbon (GDI)
Question? Does the A4 b8 have 2 fuel filters 1 in the tank like the one you did and 1 more on the outside under the car ? If yes where is it ? Thanks for the video I ordered all the parts to do the one you did 🙏🏼👍🏼
Hey James - Nope, just the one in the tank and that goes for the B8 and 8.5
@@FigureItAudi …thanks for the quick reply and information about what I ask 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼….
not only was the filter dirty, so was the liquid...totally a serviceable part!!!! there are other issues, like steam being detected, the engine cutting out and poor performance. My B8 S4 has done 104,000 miles and has its EPC light on; did you experience these issues? Great video tho; proper easy to do.
I didn't get any codes, no - it was just the fuel efficiency that tipped me off. Thanks for watching
After how many kms should one do this. I live in Switzerland and the fuel is very clean here
The answer is probably closer to gut instinct: If you have high quality fuel and even run injector cleaner through a tank a few times a year, it may not be worth doing this more than each timing service. If it wasn't for the noticeably bad fuel mileage in my car, I may have never committed to doing this project.
Apologies if I missed you already explaining it but is the B8.5 filter also in the fuel tank? Thanks for your video!
Nope, I didn't mention that specifically: it IS in the tank, just a different part number than the early B8.
Hi! Can you help me? I changed my filter and after the was not start... what i doing bad?
Hi, I have a question when we went to take off the plug things from the fuel pump one of the connectors when you pushed down on it nothing happens so I was wondering what that is called and where I can get it? I have 2009 Audi a4 Quattro I watched your video for the past couple of days June 2024
Is there more components inside the pump?
I just found your Channel on a search and I just bought a 2009 Audi A4 2.0 T Quattro. Previous owner did a lot of the maintenance but is there anything that you think I should look at right away. He did the valve decarbonization my concern is how can I extend the life of my Turbo
Hey Scott - Are you aware of the oil consumption problems in the B8's? That is by far the largest issue with early model 2.0 A4s, the ultimate solution being to replace the piston rings (which Audi warranties/ied, at one point in time). I would search for the paperwork to determine if the car received either stage 1 or 2 of the consumption tests. In a quick search, you'll also see the issues with the cam bridge and generally how important timing is. And the PCV valves suck. Oil changes are critical as well.
Any idea what is in the fuel that makes it brown? What do you think would be a reasonable service interval for the filter?
Brown stuff: not for certain. Given the age of the car, who knows if there's rust in the tank or any of the lines, what grades of fuel have been used in the past, how long a tank of gas has sat and potentially rot before using, etc. It does prove that the filters work...but not sure on the causes. My opinion on the service intervals is that if you drive your car a lot, (let's say 10-15k kms/year), I would do it every 3 years. On a car like my S4 that only does a few thousand kms per season and gets fuel stabilizer when it's sitting - far less so.
Nice video! Why did you need to change the Union Nut too?
It's just a bit of an insurance policy in the high likelihood that the ring is damaged beyond use again - and it's pretty cheap.
Wondering if we're at this stage of disassembly would it be good to replace the fuel pump itself too?
Definitely, if it needs to be (or if you don't mind splashing some cash for future proactivity). The little controller is back there too and can sometimes be a problem. Diagnosis first is key.
Best not to let it run dry. High pressure fuel pump can be damaged with out fuel running through it.
Steve... German Parts has a big sale, so may order the filter and work this procedure, but they only supply the filter, not those ancillary parts... Do you source those from a dealer?... Are you relying on the dealer to supply correct parts, based on model year?... Thanks
Nope, this is one of those cost prohibitive jobs when sourcing from the dealer - in my experience. I bought every part shown in this video from @fcpeuro. I do my own research first using sites like www.ilcats.ru/audi/ to confirm my part numbers.
@@FigureItAudigreat info!
I had a 1998 saturn and the fuel filter was below the car where u would fill up your gas. Its too bad they don't this anymore.
I didn't think about my fuel filter for my b8.5 s5. I just hit 50k miles. I wonder if it needs to be changed.
Well, think about this now for a minute... Audi calls this a "lifetime" filter, like most other manufacturers are doing these days. There are cars with 6+ times your mileage still running on the factory filter. Somewhere right in between to replace it, would be just fine. I would say 100k km, maybe ideal, but probably even fine to leave it until 200kkm.
You're eventually just going to get to the point where there's junk in the bottle of your fuel tank, too large to go through the filter obviously, the actual filter eventually cakes up enough that it's clogged to some extent, and effecting driveability of the car.
Audi calls a lot of things lifetime and that is totally wrong. Lifetime in their eyes is your warranty period. For example the ZF8 transmission needs to have the fluid changed around 60k to 80k. Audi also calls this lifetime fluid. ZF themselves have come out and said this information is not correct and not changing the fluid can cause damage to your transmission. This logic applies to a lot of parts and I suggest you perform regular maintenance if you want the car to last.
How do you get just that filter?
How many miles??
...were on the car when this was performed? ~170k kms.
@@FigureItAudi thank you :)
I ran in to a little problem after doing this. My fuel meter slowly rises after I put in a full tank and it didn't rise all the way up, just to maybe 640ish on the digital. Then I saw that the "needle" on the gas meter sunk really fast. Any ideas?
I wonder if the float on the bottom of the assembly (that reads fuel level) got caught up on something and it's not moving freely. It's almost important to make sure the little black ground wire is reconnected firmly so maintain a good signal. That said, I'm not sure if that wire the the level inputs are related.
@@FigureItAudi thanks for some suggestions, will look into it ✌🏻
great tutorial. i have the impression that all german cars are over-engineered. i would gladly pay an extra grand for a car that a diy-er can maintain. neither filters or the fluids they filter are "life time". all the car makers want to do is have the car not fail during the warranty period.
can i assume the exact same procedure would apply to a 2010 a5 b8?
Thanks! Yes, from a quick search, it looks like the parts and the procedure would be identical - but obviously, double check all your part numbers.
Is the low pressure sensor located in the fuel pump under the seat or os it on the engine?
There's only a high pressure switch up on the high pressure fuel pump (or near it) and the only other thing near the fuel pump is the control module that's just rearward of the pump on the passenger side.
The high pressure fuel pump has a pressure sensor on the fuel rail. My b8 does read low side fuel pressure and I believe it's the sensor on top of the high pressure fuel pump
Qual a quilometragem correta ou tempo para realizar a troca desse filtro de combustível?
Realmente não há idade ou quilometragem para basear a decisão. Eu só faria isso se você já estiver trabalhando no tanque de combustível ou se notar um consumo de combustível excepcionalmente baixo ou se o motor não parecer estar funcionando bem e nenhum outro problema puder ser encontrado com ar + ignição.
Have a problem after this with the car not getting gas back in engine 2 start. S4 b8… any ideas?
Can't say for certain but I'd just make sure everything is reconnected properly, including the fuse, if you pulled it. If it's the same pump body as the A4, the grounding wire is a bit finicky to reattach firmly. When you key the ignition, do you hear the pump prime for a few seconds?
@@FigureItAudi yea i even took that hose off on top and put something to catch gas and cycled key, n it shot out, so pump is pumping... did u have 2 prime alot? wonder if i have 2 purge line of air....
got her going, i 1st went with ebay filterr that didnt have regulator, n used my old one. dont do that. get a bosch with a regulator like he did.
That extra nipple in top the fuel pump is a breather???
I replaced my fuel pump and went to the gas station to fill up and fuel was spilling out from underneath.
Thought I pinched my fuel pump seal but that wasn't the case. It was actually coming out from that nipple. I plugged it with the cap that came with. Do you know why fuel was coming out from that nipple???
Thanks, in advance!
This is for the auxiliary heater which is mostly in European cars. Some of them have that extra port blocked off underneath the top of the pump but some of the ones you buy do not. There is a piece to cap it off. 06H906051K this part number is for B8.5 A4 and A5, it may also be compatible with other models. Verify compatibility on your vehicle before purchase.
@twist7558 Thanks I'll double check. Appreciated 🙏
I did this filter switch and drove a few miles, my engine will not turn over now. It was driving fine and then stopped when I got to the first destination.
Can someone help
@@HowsWifehow did you fix this?
@@ac14081408 I sold the Audi
They drive nice, but when they break, they break.. pretty novel vehicle and not worth the expenses
I have a B8 and mine is in line. Do I have 2
No :)
Not sure if you’ll see this but after performing this job I got a code P025C “Fuel Pump Module Control Circuit Low” again shot in the dark that this actually gets seen but was hoping for a response. Could you help?
The fuel pump control module is actually just inches away from the pump itself. It's a little box connected to the wires you would have unplugged from the top of the pump, and it's held to the chassis by the 2 screws you would have not even glanced at, towards the rear of the car. It's possible one of the connections to, from, or in the pump just isn't firm. That little clip on the pump that holds the ground is really finicky, too. Gotta make sure it's on there. If you disconnected your battery during the job, that could easily be it too if the fault was registered as soon as you started the car for the first time. I'd clear the code and see if it comes back, and if it does, recheck your work.
@@FigureItAudi Wow thank you so much for your help, I’ll check into it after I get off work today, but seriously thank you for responding especially on almost a year old video!!
@@iamexempt5943did you figure it out?