VGT Exhaust brake issues?? Try this first before replacing your turbo!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Something that i think quite a few people dont try on the 2007.5 to current 6.7 cummins is just changing or checking the actuator. Unfortunately due to the installation point, most shops will just change your turbo. I highly suggest taking a look the Geno's Garage actuator replacement and likely solve most of your exhaust brake issues!
My 21 cunnins just hit 325k and its been making that exact noise at idle the last few weeks and today i noticed im not getting exhaist brake. I’ll look into the actuator. Thanks for posting
I had little to no turbo boost. Pulled my actuator and checked the shaft movement, was fine. Ordered an actuator from City Diesel and WOW! Totally night and day difference from the stock actuator. The exhaust brake works fine and NO calibration required!! These actuators are awesome!
Good stuff
Bro this was unironocoly funny asf but useful at the same time.
Don't forget to check the power going to the VGT system first as mine had an issue at the fuse box and green death issues
do not waste your money they will say anything to blame your turbo I had replaced my actuator with one from City Diesel, the first one only lasted 2 weeks due to a circuit board frying. I called to do a warranty swap, City Diesel blamed my turbo for the failure. My turbo had just been swapped for one from Cummings, so I knew that wasn't the issue. City Diesel wanted me to purchase a new actuator and send the old one back and IF it was their fault they would refund my money for the new one. Got the second one and now not even a year later it has failed again.
Well im 2 years in and zero issues..... I had my concerns but the general consensus is they work pretty well
I’m having the exact same issues with them. I purchased the actuator and having issues with overheating. I pulled actuator off. When I plugged it in to the truck to cycle I could hear gears grinding. I returned it to them and they said my turbo was bad so I purchased their reman turbo with new actuator and again I’m overheating and motor running rough. Took it off and put on original actuator and no overheating and motor runs smoothly.
Zero issues here, as well. Lost exhaust brake. City diesel actuator came with good installation instructions. Draining coolant was the biggest thing...zero contaminants. No grease, nothing. Plug and play. Still running excellent after 2 years.
Yeah, of course he has no problems. He’s making the video and he’s pretty stupid anyway because he doesn’t know what he’s talking about.
Same thing happened to me bought the city diesel actuator completely worked fine for 2 days and gave me the U010c code again, ordered a cheap one from Amazon and it’s been working fine
I have code P0106 (MAP sensor) and P2580 (turbo speed sensor) my truck will build proper boost some days, others it wont, im getting a slight squeak from the front after about a month of having the issue. Tried replacing both sensors and checking all wiring. Exhaust brake only really works when truck is warm. Turbo builds right voltage aswell, any ideas?
60k miles in and used the city unit. 6 months later same issue. Gotta pull it and send it in.
2 years in and zero issues here, sorry it hasn't worked out for you, have your rebuilt your turbo and cleaned the vgt vane guide?
@@RunningJoe the arm moves freely. Or it did last I checked it. I have a fleece on the way anyway. I'm going to remove the city one and check it. Then send it in if it's bad and sell the replacement.
Possible $5 fix!!?? OK guys .. I have a 2017 Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins that I just bought a month ago. Threw codes right away. When it would throw the code and engine light it would get real "valvy" sounding and I'd lose my jake. I found that if I turned truck off, turn key on until I got the ok to start then turn key off and on 3 times real fast, then start it 9/10 it would fix itself, which told me that the actuator wasn't mechanically / physically broken. Dealer says actuator & turbo. I called around and got quotes from other shops and everyone kinda had the same story and a few guys said the "turbo may be sticking". So, I figured that if it was sticking, why can't I remove the air cleaner and squirt some WD-40 down the pipe? What's it gonna hurt? So, I did. I squirted maybe a Tablespoon worth in the tube, put the air cleaner back in, took it for a a somewhat aggressive drive right away for just a few miles. It's been 2 days now (maybe 100 miles) and hasn't thrown the code or failed and went into limp mode yet. The way it was acting, it was constant. I couldn't drive 15 miles without it failing. Soo?? I dunno, I'm no master mechanic but this seems to working so far and makes sense if I understand how it all works.
Was truck on when you squirted wd down?
@@justinberrett7479 No, but it went into limp mode 3 days later. So now I bought a turbo spray / cleaner, which has specific instructions. Trying that. It definitely helps.
@@slinger3350 what ended up happening? Did you get it fixed?
@@justinberrett7479 so I changed the crankcase filter put a K and N air filter in, did a turbo cleaning treatment with a can of CRC Turbo cleaner and it's 90% better. It's really weird I can go days without it tripping and then there will be days where it will trip Non-Stop. But when I shut the truck off then restart it it goes back into the good mode. It's very odd. So I have not changed the turbo actuator. I'm trying to hold out until I do a full delete kit on this truck next spring.
@@justinberrett7479 myself, I think mine is an electrical issue which is 99% of the case on these trucks. And it could be an electrical issue within the turbo actuator itself. But I did notice the other day when I was getting on it a little bit I saw a flash on my screen that said shifting into four-wheel drive "in progress", which was strange so I pulled it into four-wheel drive and back into two-wheel drive and I haven't had it trip on me since so I'm still at a little bit of a loss but I do know that the things that I have done have made it 90% better.
I can feel the horsepower 😂 gettin One now
its too bad they don't add horsepower but they are quite bit stronger of a motor, I'm 1 year in, my exhaust brake works flawlessly !
You’re an idiot dude shut up you don’t know what you’re talking about
My turbo was working perfectly fine one day then the next day I have weak exhaust brake. About 20,000 miles on new turbo. Full boost and it tries to brake. Any thoughts? Just seems odd that out of no where it went weak. I have the exhaust brake on everytime it starts
Turbo actuator
Are you still having this issue or did you figure it out? Exact same thing happened to me and I just replaced the turbo and still have the weak exhaust brake
@@benbrady9865 sold it because I couldn't figure it out. Best thing I did
@@benbrady9865 did you replace or test exhaust brake sensor?
I installed this actuator and nothing happened. Check engine light is still on and the exhaust brake doesn’t work. The turbo shaft did move. The turbo spools. Do you have any idea what else it could be?
Did you clear the engine lights before starting?
Did the turbo shaft have full range of movement when you checked it? Did it go from from one hole on the actuator gear housing all the way to the other? Should be about 1” total distance.
If the shaft doesn’t have complete movement, then the turbo needs rebuilt.
just deleted my 2015 ram 2500 with 82,000 miles, and 2 days later got the codes for the turbo, everyone says the actuator is failing and should be changed.... how much time do you have before they completely fail? when i cold start my truck and it makes that beautiful jet engine sound with the exhaust brake on, it will sit there for 10 minutes no problem before automatically kicking off the exhaust brake. i have zero issues with the turbo spooling up and when driving around my exhaust brake works just as it did rolling off the showroom floor. i rarely ever used the exhaust brake before the codes popped up... now i leave it on 24/7 and am thinking its actually helping to keep the actuator from sticking and possibly resolve the issue.
check that your back pressure sensor is still hooked up, if not your tuner will need to delete the code! It sounds like everything is functionally correct, once your hit temp the actuator opens as it doesnt want to over heat
@@RunningJoe hey mate, were is the back pressure sensor? Mines deleted, egr right through to the soot cooker. Bought it that way. When i bought it, it was deleted but not tuned, so i bought a raceme tuner and put it on the tow tune. Check engine light went away for about 5 days, then intermittently came back with the no boost pressure code...
Once engine reaches operating temp the brake turns off, on a cold start
My 2014 2500 is in the shop right now getting new turbo module. Check lite came on, no power, no exh brake. Had two shops run scan and both gave me same results. Took to dealer, $1700 for the unit and they are eating the $375 install fee.I know I'm taking a hit, but it will be done with. Truck has 100K miles. I think I'm doing the EGR and DEF delete. No emissions here. Any suggestions, bitch's, or opinions welcome.... Also heard that 90% of issues come from the emissions crap hanging on the motor...
I have the same issue. Had already replaced the pan for Def fuel when I got a code message saying it was going to slow down and not be able to accelerate. 3 years later now and I need an actuator for turbo. I deleted the Def fuel and pan but my truck now sounds like a damn jet. I'm so sad. Idk what to do if to spend the money and not be sure I can have a reliable truck or just buy something new😓💔
Change out your entire air intake too. Very restricted. I went with the Injen system. HP and mpg gains.
Pretty sure the egr clogs and dirties the shit out of the turbo.
After I imstall the genos my full exhaust brake full disnt work any more
Joe talk to Austin he’s a certified Cummins mechanic. Maybe you could get him on the show as a feature !
when I dont do most of my own work sure lol, people seem to forget I do 95% of my own repairs lol
When you change out the vgt valve can you re calibrate by just driving so many miles?
With the genos garage / d&e one no calibration is required
If its a factory a replacement a calibration is required when first powering it up
Nice infommercial Ginos
i wish hahahahahahahahaha
paid full price and than some thanks to customs
My check engine goes on and off with a DTC P0046
Did you loose boost in your 6.7 Cummins when the actuator malfunctioned?
ish, so depending where the vanes got stuck, mine was working intermittently i would have full boost or very little down low. Losing full boost would tell me something else is going on!
I was towing my boat with my 2008 6.7 Cummins and it started rolling coal on a stock pickup. It stopped putting out black smoke, when I go to step on it a little bit you can hear a little bit of squealing. I still don’t have 100% boost though.
Tells me you likely have an actuator stuck in the open position , id rather 100% open than closed....
I’ve been hesitant on turning on the exhaust button
My truck sounds exactly what you hear at the beginning of the video.....am I safe to keep driving a little longer? Just randomly started squealing one day and never stopped as long as the exhaust brake is on....still builds boost and the exhoust brake still works just makes the stupid sound...
You can try the cleaner kit and attempt to clean the vanes externally before it gets worse ! Kits are cheap and takes about 30 minutes before replacing the actuator or rebuilding the turbo
Hey would u happen to know what fuse would be related to the actuator I bought a new one installed it doesn’t work
Fuse 37!
@@RunningJoe thank u
If that don’t work what else could it be
@@kennywhittington8929 tough to say without being there..... cycle the turbo exhaust brake by hand when it was off?? You could also do a test of the actuator with AlfaOBD to ensure the actuator s cycling. Its possible you have wiring issue as well
I'm pretty sure I need to get this actuator and install it. I was curious, has anybody had their system leaking the exhaust into the engine bay. And into the cab? I had the code pop up it was the U010C. It came on, I pulled over read the code and took off and it went off on its own. So I looked into what the code was all about. I'm gonna order the actuator and then I'll check my turbo to insure I've got full movement. But the exhaust thing has me concerned. Only because I haven't heard anybody mention it as a symptom.
Check that the vbands on the back side of your turbo are not loose or have fallen off .....
@@RunningJoe will do, whether that's it or not. Thank you very much.
I had exhaust leaking in the cab turned out the exhaust back pressure line was cracked and leaking exhaust. Look for black soot marks where it attaches to exhaust manifold.
@@stevepistoresi sorry for the late response. Thanks for your input. It is greatly appreciated.
what ended up fixing it?
Exhaust brake only works at 1500 rpm’s and under. I have a monitor and Vgt position is fully functional. Warm up she whistles away like normal no surging. Any tips on what to check.
Id suggest getting a trailer behind you and getting your truck under load for 50 miles, your vanes are just starting to coke, so needs a proper clean up under loaf
Jordan zuchro is a mechanic too feature him on the show too
9.5 times out of 10, it's the veins have carbon buildup that have to be cleaned
What is the best and most economical way to clean the veins? Thanks in advance.
Did you have to recalebrate the actuator or IT was plug&Play as they claim?
100% plug and play, no recalibration needed
@@RunningJoe Good to know Thanks!!
I don’t believe mines working. I have 5” tbe and never hear much of a whistle when warming up or high idling. Guessing mine isn’t working but no codes.
im guessing its stuck fully open! Have you owned it since new?? If not have you checked you dont have a non stock turbo, its also 100% possible they tuned it to never actuate and throw codes
Mine don’t even whistle nothing come on exhaust brake both modes manual or automatic nothing ?
Original owner? If not make sure the turbo hasnt been swapped if it has, your likely needing a rebuild of the turbo or swap
Easy test would be drain the trucks coolant than take the actuator off and see if you can move the vane by hand if you cant your turbo needs a rebuild. If you can id try the genos actuator or a new oem actuator
Only owed the truck couple months dpf delete and EGR deleted no tuner just edge CTS3 monitor to mirror the dash gages. Obviously a tune to correct the deletes. I’ll try that any way thanks a lot cheers.
Like how you filmed this at the man camp lmao
Nah not camp ;) was nightshift on a shutdown lol
Don’t waist your money put an oem they suck ass and they don’t last and their warranty sucks they’re really nice when you want to buy and as soon you call them to say their product suck they always say ,(we nevered have a problem its your turbo )
Don’t waste your money go direct to cummins for parts
2 years on mine zero issues, 2 mopar ones in 1 year hmmmmm
Mopar told me $8k and no eta
Did you have a code before you pulled it apart?
yes typical p0046 and P226C
Isn't the turbo still coked up with carbon. Actuator when bad for a reason right?
2 of the 3 turbos I had apart really didn't have much for carbon build up but they had actuators they were failed or skipping ......
Can just be unpluged and not worry About frying it.
Sure but you'll want to make sure your vanes aren't in a weird spot...... id rather have a functioning exhaust brake, also plays a HUGE factor in how the boost comes on
@@RunningJoe awesome thanks good info . it is my first time doing that so I need all the info posible
Also, fun fact- could be your PCM.
100% a possibility, a little less likely, ive actually seen weak batteries causing it more lately
@@RunningJoe i put a new actuator in yesterday, no dice. Geno's walked me through some voltage and ohm tests on the wiring to the actuator,from that determined its likely a pcm issue. Or, since mine is tuned, try reflashing the tune. My symptoms were- no vgt, or occasional vgt when OAT was above 75. Worth checking voltages before spending a grand.
I'm wondering about this too. My 2017 is throwing codes pointing at actuator but I can usually get it back into operating correctly by: 1- turning the key on & waiting for the ok to start, then 2- go off an on with key 3 times pretty fast, then 3 - start truck. 9/10 times I get my turbo & jake back. It's very intermittent. This makes me think it's more electrical than mechanical. Anybody have any input?
@@slinger3350 ive swapped batterie's on a buddies truck that was doing something similar! It came back to life and has worked since!
@@RunningJoe Makes sense. But, since I'm not 100% familiar with how the actuator works. Could it also be that it's getting stuck & by turning the key on & off in "re-setting HOME" on the actuator? Or does it not work like that?