✅Click here for a new clutch ➜ amzn.to/3zXRXvF ✅Click here for a clutch removal tool ➜ amzn.to/3vixm10 For more videos like this, check out: 👉Un-seize engine video ➜ ruclips.net/video/JpCLxSYMqso/видео.html 👉UltraSonic cleaner video ➜ ruclips.net/video/BTN7-C72eHA/видео.html 👉Check spark video ➜ ruclips.net/video/VZ8r7xv3DLY/видео.html 👉Fix a loose rope video ➜ ruclips.net/video/vCHId_yCQTw/видео.html You can connect with Steve here too: ✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ ✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ ✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
It's not boring to show every "tedious" step in disassembly. A lot of beginners, who may even have this exact same machine, will benefit from seeing how it all comes apart especially the things you didn't mention like the belt and pulleys, the belt guard, etc etc. People may need a video like this to see what parts go where and will also use it to see if parts are missing, especially since the one in this video seems factory complete. But do it your way I suppose.
I have always used a little block of wood to knock the clutch loose on those engines. I have been using it for years. I know they sell that fancy tool but an old timer taught me and he scoffed at me for suggesting specialized tools. Same with the flywheel knock off tool. A simple wack on the crank shaft with the nut screwed on breaks the flywheel loose. I have had to replace the clutch many times because the balls were rusted and pitted. I have also broke a few 1/4 in screen screws. I learned a long time ago to lube those screws and wack them with a punch if they fight me. Not suprised no spark. Usually just the points needing cleaned. I would get the compression up before worrying about spark. If the valves are damaged, seats are junk or rings are bad, I usually give up and call it a lost cause. No one I know wants to spend the money now days to rebuild a 5hp engine. We live in a throw away world. The sad part is that old engine is 10 times better quality than a new engine but these kids now days argue stating the Harbor Freight engines are far more superior." Really? I doubt they would last as long ",is always my come back. Kids.
The Harbor Freight engines are Honda clones and they are actually pretty good. They're overhead valve and nicely modern so they are more fuel efficient, quieter, and make more power for size. They are popular for go-kart racing where they get flogged around a track for many hours. There are stage 1, 2, and 3 racing upgrade kits that replace parts to increase power. If I had to replace an old flathead Briggs 5HP today, I'd put a Harbor Freight Predator 6HP in it instead, no hesitation. "The future is now old man." -A "Kid" (Millennial) 🤙
I used to use a pipe wrench to spin off those clutches. But sometimes I have broken off an ear that holds the screen down. Back in the day there was no such tool available for removing these clutches. Maybe I need to buy one now?
Valves next ,and when ever I have the clutch off I always pull that washer off the shaft and check the flywheel key . When you redo the points I'd consider using the B&S magnetron add on ignition module.!!!! Makes them run so much better !
Long ago I have converted all of my old Briggs engines over from points to solid state ignition. I have a K-Mart 22" Murray push mower that I got as a kid brand new in 1970 that I still use today for trimming where my zero turn can't reach next to flower beds, fence lines, etc. It still starts with the first pull because I take care of it, keep the valves adjusted (end gap) and fresh diaphragms under the carburetor and always use Stabil.
On a horizontal that only runs a belt there’s not too much likelihood of key damage. On a rotary mover, absolutely, every time! Still a good idea to check while you’re there.
Yep! Also lap them with lapping compound and check and adjust the valve stem end gap clearances between the tappets/lifters too after wire wheeling off the valves to clean them up). Better valve seal = better compression and more power!
My vote is for the valves as the next video. For no particular reason other than that valve looks horrendous. I’m interested in seeing how that gets fixed. Thanks!!
Good work Steve. I'm enjoying this little restoration series. I reckon it's got to be the valve and compression next. If that's not sorted, there's no point having a spark.
I enjoy very much watching your informative videos, especially when they are a series like the 1970’s garden tiller.. I appreciate watching you use your expertise to bring a machine that looks trashed completely unusable back to life. I would like to see more videos like this one in the future. Thank You for sharing what you have learned in 30 some years of small engine repair. I can now do many repairs myself.
I'm a bit surprised that you overlooked one item on the clutch: the little hole on the end is for oil for the clutch and crankshaft surfaces, there is a little felt wick inside that soaks up oil and keeps those surfaces lubed. A little shot of oil every year or so will keep the clutch from rusting to the crank.
I just opened the comments to make your point. If Steve didn’t remove the felt wick before cleaning, it’s now soaked in toilet cleaner- that’s not going to be a good long term reaction with the metal!
Thanks for mentioning! I just had to clean my clutch, and out popped this black foam thing? I of course replaced it, I was thinking that was what it was for. I was going to ask about it, but I don’t now. Thanks!
I have another idea of what video you should do. I would love to see you do a small engine rebuild. I think you should also do a video about when it is proper to us Never Seeze and when is it not proper to use Never Seeze.
Dude! My dad just gave me his old Agway tiller...he said it was from the late '80s...but the engine code says it was made in 1979! It looks a LOT like the one you're rehabilitating here, and I'm looking forward to using your video series as a guide. Thanks for the great work!!
Thank you Steve I got my grandfather's old tiller and it started screaming at me. I don't have that tool for the clutch but going to try channel locks. Your the first channel I come to when I have a small engine problem. Told the boys at work about your channel I work for the DOT so all truck drivers and heavy equipment operators I should them you video of greasing a chain saw clutch not one of us know about it and we all run big saws of our own.
I'm a little late to these videos, but it's great that you're going through this engine one piece at a time. Very logical progression. Excellent learning tool ya got here!
Great vid. I have come across my share of repairs with those briggs starter clutches. And many of them were because someone told them to lube them and they used grease LOL Do the valves next, I think your audience will love it; especially in a world full of Honda clones. Kudos!
I was just thinking that - mentioned in its own bar that I have a wood chipper that doesn't rewind on its own until it starts. maybe next time I have it out, I'll put this video to use.
Hey Steve, just for your personal knowledge, It took me 1 Bud light to watch this video. Let's get some spark in the next one, and we will see if it drags out to 2 Bud lights.
I'm ready for either! I've cleaned and/or replaced several sets of points and a couple of condensers on flathead Briggs but have never personally had the valves out of one yet. I say valves first!
I like what you did to solve the problem with the clutch and the removal of the rust. I would like to see you work on the piston next to make sure all is fine there.
Steve, I have an idea for your video mini series. How about a rebuild of a Tecumseh OH160? These seem to be a forgotten engine. Not many in depth videos out there on them. Certainly none from professionals such as yourself. I know Tecumseh is out of business here in the states, parts are probably hard to come by. Just a thought. Thanks for the great videos!
Ahh yes. Tecumseh engines. Always on the old Sears junky mowers. The governor (made out of plastic or pot metal) always goes out, then they throw the rod right out the side. When they run they always vibrate like hell because of poor balancing. They made good power though, had awesome compression. I'd always replace them with a good old Briggs.
@@joefudd The OH160 in my opinion was a better engine. The one I used as a 12 year old boy helping my father was an absolute beast. They were part of Tecumsehs XL series. Yes, it was mounted to a Sears tractor, but she was a work horse.
Learning as I go by watching your videos! Trying to get spark and taking it apart and putting it back together then fixing valve issues? Not sure as I'm learning from you! I would say valves then spark but I'm still learning 😌
Let’s see the valves get taken out , cleaned, and lapped in. In the meantime, you can take the starter cover back off because you’ve already done that part. This way you’ll be prepared for the next video taking the flywheel off with the flywheel removal tool, then get to the points and condenser. I also recommend maybe putting in people into and condenser again instead of converting it to electronic ignition. Many guys out there need an education on replacing the points and condenser. Old guys like me have been there done that the last 50 years, but it makes for a good video for the young bloods.
"Balls of steel" 😳 Hahahaha! Caught me unaware and I had a great laugh! BTW: Love your presentation and common sense approach to small engine repair. Do rhe valves next.
Nice job on all your educational videos Steve. Even a guy that knows-it-all can learn a thing or to. I like the Beer advice, i think that we would make a good team1
Steve, thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I learned so much. It really doesn’t matter what you work on next. I’ll be watching all of it. Thanks again you do a great job communicating.
Like to see you work on them valves Steve. But what ever you do i'm sure I will learn something . Enjoy your videos, and thanks 4 the Wisdom, And Help. Peace from N.C.
I wish I had seen this video 60 yrs ago when I had some of those old style B.S. engines. Good video and which ever you want to do next is fine with me. Thanks Steve!!!
Thanks Steve for all of your fine advice, tips and videos. I'm not small engine savvy, but your videos are so clear and concise, up-close and amazing. You show us how to , why to, and teach so much in an interesting manner. You're a natural teacher. I commend you and appreciate your honesty, comic attitude and ethics in all of your videos. So, Thank you. I have learned a lot, and if I need to learn further, I check out your videos to learn so much. God Bless you and your family. Again, thanks.
Steve I'm loving these videos! I would not be the least bit upset if you continue to do series like these. I always enjoy watching videos like this where they take an older piece of equipment and get it running again. I'm working on a '74 merry tiller with the 5 hp wisconsin engine myself, So it's really nice to see someone on RUclips that is kind of following along doing the same thing. Keep it up! Love the videos!
Steven and April I, hope all is well up north. I'm down in sunny Florida, The Season's ready to take off full swing. I'd like to see you jump right into the valves. The toilet bowl cleaner for rust, hell of an idea. I've been using other products. Love the knowledge. Have a good day Steve.
Hey Steve for the grand finale can you get Bob and Doug Mckenzie for a beer hunter special ? now that would be a beauty eh ? the rebuild is a really good idea, going to learn a lot and have fun along the way.
Hey Steve, Love the videos, like everyone else! I love the fact that you are doing a longer series on an old motor front to back. My vote is to address the valve and compression issue before the spark. Although the spark is probably less costly to dig into, no compression would probably mean you won't proceed further.
✅Click here for a new clutch ➜ amzn.to/3zXRXvF
✅Click here for a clutch removal tool ➜ amzn.to/3vixm10
For more videos like this, check out:
👉Un-seize engine video ➜ ruclips.net/video/JpCLxSYMqso/видео.html
👉UltraSonic cleaner video ➜ ruclips.net/video/BTN7-C72eHA/видео.html
👉Check spark video ➜ ruclips.net/video/VZ8r7xv3DLY/видео.html
👉Fix a loose rope video ➜ ruclips.net/video/vCHId_yCQTw/видео.html
You can connect with Steve here too:
✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/
✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon
✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/
✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
It's not boring to show every "tedious" step in disassembly. A lot of beginners, who may even have this exact same machine, will benefit from seeing how it all comes apart especially the things you didn't mention like the belt and pulleys, the belt guard, etc etc. People may need a video like this to see what parts go where and will also use it to see if parts are missing, especially since the one in this video seems factory complete. But do it your way I suppose.
Do the Valves next. Thanks
Coming soon!
Nice viedo, remove and seat the valves and set the valve adjustment and then do the points and condenser. Thanks
Ok, thanks
Lol.Im sure he might have known that.
I have always used a little block of wood to knock the clutch loose on those engines. I have been using it for years. I know they sell that fancy tool but an old timer taught me and he scoffed at me for suggesting specialized tools. Same with the flywheel knock off tool. A simple wack on the crank shaft with the nut screwed on breaks the flywheel loose. I have had to replace the clutch many times because the balls were rusted and pitted. I have also broke a few 1/4 in screen screws. I learned a long time ago to lube those screws and wack them with a punch if they fight me. Not suprised no spark. Usually just the points needing cleaned. I would get the compression up before worrying about spark. If the valves are damaged, seats are junk or rings are bad, I usually give up and call it a lost cause. No one I know wants to spend the money now days to rebuild a 5hp engine. We live in a throw away world. The sad part is that old engine is 10 times better quality than a new engine but these kids now days argue stating the Harbor Freight engines are far more superior." Really? I doubt they would last as long ",is always my come back. Kids.
The Harbor Freight engines are Honda clones and they are actually pretty good. They're overhead valve and nicely modern so they are more fuel efficient, quieter, and make more power for size. They are popular for go-kart racing where they get flogged around a track for many hours. There are stage 1, 2, and 3 racing upgrade kits that replace parts to increase power. If I had to replace an old flathead Briggs 5HP today, I'd put a Harbor Freight Predator 6HP in it instead, no hesitation.
"The future is now old man."
-A "Kid" (Millennial) 🤙
I used to use a pipe wrench to spin off those clutches. But sometimes I have broken off an ear that holds the screen down. Back in the day there was no such tool available for removing these clutches. Maybe I need to buy one now?
@@joefudd The tool has been around as long as the clutches have been used.
Valves next ,and when ever I have the clutch off I always pull that washer off the shaft and check the flywheel key . When you redo the points I'd consider using the B&S magnetron add on ignition module.!!!! Makes them run so much better !
Right on
Great series Steve. Darrell’s comment is spot on and I might add emory cloth that flywheel and coil while the flywheel is off.
Long ago I have converted all of my old Briggs engines over from points to solid state ignition. I have a K-Mart 22" Murray push mower that I got as a kid brand new in 1970 that I still use today for trimming where my zero turn can't reach next to flower beds, fence lines, etc. It still starts with the first pull because I take care of it, keep the valves adjusted (end gap) and fresh diaphragms under the carburetor and always use Stabil.
On a horizontal that only runs a belt there’s not too much likelihood of key damage. On a rotary mover, absolutely, every time! Still a good idea to check while you’re there.
Steve,the more I watch your videos the more anxious I am to work on small engines. Your contagious,great video.
You can do it!
Valves and compression for next video 👍
Coming soon!
Just found your site. Have an over 40 year old briggs. Fixed broken starter rope now clutch might engage might not. Will try cleaning it
Good luck!
I believe I'd fix the valve first in case it doesn't have enough compression to actually start.
Thank You...
Yep! Also lap them with lapping compound and check and adjust the valve stem end gap clearances between the tappets/lifters too after wire wheeling off the valves to clean them up). Better valve seal = better compression and more power!
My vote is for the valves as the next video. For no particular reason other than that valve looks horrendous. I’m interested in seeing how that gets fixed. Thanks!!
Great point!
Good information for a lot of folks who are learning
Good work Steve. I'm enjoying this little restoration series.
I reckon it's got to be the valve and compression next. If that's not sorted, there's no point having a spark.
We shall see
I'm just learning how to work on small engines and equipment . Your videos are very helpful.
Great to hear!
I enjoy very much watching your informative videos, especially when they are a series like the 1970’s garden tiller.. I appreciate watching you use your expertise to bring a machine that looks trashed completely unusable back to life. I would like to see more videos like this one in the future. Thank You for sharing what you have learned in 30 some years of small engine repair. I can now do many repairs myself.
Glad you like them!
Good job! Make sure you cover properly setting the governor. Thanks.
You're Welcome...
Great video! Got mine working just fine, looks like previous owner had greased it up good.
Doesn't matter which you do just along you do both 👍👍 looking forward to you bringing it back to life
Right on Al! Thank You...
I'm a bit surprised that you overlooked one item on the clutch: the little hole on the end is for oil for the clutch and crankshaft surfaces, there is a little felt wick inside that soaks up oil and keeps those surfaces lubed. A little shot of oil every year or so will keep the clutch from rusting to the crank.
I just opened the comments to make your point. If Steve didn’t remove the felt wick before cleaning, it’s now soaked in toilet cleaner- that’s not going to be a good long term reaction with the metal!
@@tomrogers9467 True, but the crap is out!
Thanks for mentioning! I just had to clean my clutch, and out popped this black foam thing? I of course replaced it, I was thinking that was what it was for. I was going to ask about it, but I don’t now. Thanks!
Valves....
That engine was filled with water !
I wish i had one of these engines but it's soo hard finding them. I think you should do the spark next. Nice vid
This engine should be easy to find , I've probably got 6 or 8 of them.
Thank You...
@@darellsunderlin4670 i would love to buy one or two off of you
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon have you ever seen a maytag engine? It would be really cool if you worked on one
Let's see the valves next. Thanks for the videos.
Coming soon!
I would do the valves first. You can always take care of the spark issue after you know it has compression. Thanks Steve 🔧👍
Right on
Valve Steve. Cheers.
Right on
I have another idea of what video you should do. I would love to see you do a small engine rebuild. I think you should also do a video about when it is proper to us Never Seeze and when is it not proper to use Never Seeze.
valves and compression next. Loving the series keep it up Steve.
Thank You...
Dude! My dad just gave me his old Agway tiller...he said it was from the late '80s...but the engine code says it was made in 1979! It looks a LOT like the one you're rehabilitating here, and I'm looking forward to using your video series as a guide. Thanks for the great work!!
I have the same issues on a rototiller with the same engine I am working on. Thanks for this series.
Thanks for watching!
Really enjoying this series Steve...it takes me back to being a kid seeing family manhandle this beast every year in our huge gardens.
Thank You...
Don't matter what is next, I enjoy watching your channel. Thanks Steve.
Thanks 👍
Another awesome and educational video. Never knew how to fix a clutch, now I do. Thanks
Glad to help
I've used 3in1 multi purpose oil inside the clutch assembly, found it works quite well and its very thin and doesn't stick anything.
Thank you Steve I got my grandfather's old tiller and it started screaming at me. I don't have that tool for the clutch but going to try channel locks. Your the first channel I come to when I have a small engine problem. Told the boys at work about your channel I work for the DOT so all truck drivers and heavy equipment operators I should them you video of greasing a chain saw clutch not one of us know about it and we all run big saws of our own.
Definitely the valves so you can check the compression. Thank you for all your great videos. You have taught me a lot.
Glad to help
Another great video. I just picked up an old lawn mower and clutch is stuck on it. Definitely going to get after it per these tips. Thanks.
Good luck!
I've snapped more than one crank by turning the engine over with an impact.
I like that tool.
I'm a little late to these videos, but it's great that you're going through this engine one piece at a time. Very logical progression. Excellent learning tool ya got here!
Cool, thanks
Awesome video as always Steve, do the valves next, see if it has compression.
Great suggestion!
Valves and compression
Right on
Thanks Steve.
Nice job on the clutch. So easy wehn you know what you are doing.
Do the valve next.
You're Welcome...
Valve and compression gets my vote!
Right on
Steve, really enjoy your videos. You don’t wast time with the I love me segments many others insert in their video. Thank you sir.
I appreciate that!
Great vid. I have come across my share of repairs with those briggs starter clutches. And many of them were because someone told them to lube them and they used grease LOL Do the valves next, I think your audience will love it; especially in a world full of Honda clones. Kudos!
Right on
Flat punch and hammer works just as well. Be careful not to break off one of the ears.
That's how I do it, carefully
I was just thinking that - mentioned in its own bar that I have a wood chipper that doesn't rewind on its own until it starts. maybe next time I have it out, I'll put this video to use.
Hey Steve, just for your personal knowledge, It took me 1 Bud light to watch this video. Let's get some spark in the next one, and we will see if it drags out to 2 Bud lights.
Right on Ronny!
I'm ready for either! I've cleaned and/or replaced several sets of points and a couple of condensers on flathead Briggs but have never personally had the valves out of one yet. I say valves first!
Right on
I like what you did to solve the problem with the clutch and the removal of the rust. I would like to see you work on the piston next to make sure all is fine there.
Right on
Like always great video .I want to see compression and valves.Thank you for sharing
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Thanks Steve!! I have alway put grease in the clutch. Not anymore thanks for another great tip!!
Glad to help
Following this one to the end.
I’d like to see the valves and check for compression
Right on
I agree! Valves next.
Steve,
I have an idea for your video mini series. How about a rebuild of a Tecumseh OH160? These seem to be a forgotten engine. Not many in depth videos out there on them. Certainly none from professionals such as yourself. I know Tecumseh is out of business here in the states, parts are probably hard to come by. Just a thought. Thanks for the great videos!
Right on Chris! Thank You...
Ahh yes. Tecumseh engines. Always on the old Sears junky mowers. The governor (made out of plastic or pot metal) always goes out, then they throw the rod right out the side. When they run they always vibrate like hell because of poor balancing. They made good power though, had awesome compression. I'd always replace them with a good old Briggs.
@@joefudd
The OH160 in my opinion was a better engine. The one I used as a 12 year old boy helping my father was an absolute beast. They were part of Tecumsehs XL series. Yes, it was mounted to a Sears tractor, but she was a work horse.
Learning as I go by watching your videos! Trying to get spark and taking it apart and putting it back together then fixing valve issues? Not sure as I'm learning from you! I would say valves then spark but I'm still learning 😌
Glad to help
Like to see you do the valves first. Thank you Steve.
Noted!
either valves or points...........I've got 2 of those 5hp that I can't get to run, one is from 67......I'm enjoying this series.
Thank You...
Valves please, Steve you are the best!
Thank You...
Let’s see the valves get taken out , cleaned, and lapped in. In the meantime, you can take the starter cover back off because you’ve already done that part. This way you’ll be prepared for the next video taking the flywheel off with the flywheel removal tool, then get to the points and condenser. I also recommend maybe putting in people into and condenser again instead of converting it to electronic ignition. Many guys out there need an education on replacing the points and condenser. Old guys like me have been there done that the last 50 years, but it makes for a good video for the young bloods.
Will follow this series with interest had plenty of these in the past. I drilled a small 1/8 hole in the dust cover and spayed with wd40.. same job.
Right on
Hey you were just on Pattay's This is old school stuff bud.
Absolutely!
hammer and wooden stick works well on clutch removal too.
Big pipe wrench work s also
"Balls of steel" 😳
Hahahaha! Caught me unaware and I had a great laugh!
BTW: Love your presentation and common sense approach to small engine repair. Do rhe valves next.
Awesome! Thank you!
The little hole on ratcheting clutch is where I put a little light oil. Some have a felt pad inside for keeping the oil in.
I need the ignition fix as a reference for my 2hp vertical project.
But the valves fix is useful too
Right on
Valves next Steve.......top work.
We shall see
Nice job on all your educational videos Steve. Even a guy that knows-it-all can learn a thing or to. I like the Beer advice, i think that we would make a good team1
Right on!
So glad I subbed to this channel,thanks from a fellow Canuck.
Awesome! Thank you!
Go for the valves Steve 👍😁
Right on
Valves and compression would be awesome!
Great suggestion!
Wow, the toilet bowl cleaner did a nice job. I’m going to try that with some of my rusty junk. Thanks for sharing.
Any time!
That was a good way of cleaning them up. I'll try that the next time. Thanks, Steve!
Steve, thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I learned so much. It really doesn’t matter what you work on next. I’ll be watching all of it. Thanks again you do a great job communicating.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Like to see you work on them valves Steve. But what ever you do i'm sure I will learn something . Enjoy your videos, and thanks 4 the Wisdom, And Help. Peace from N.C.
This is fun ! Thanks Steve ! 👍
Any time!
I would love how you check how you are going to check for spark?
I've got the same engine on my tiller. Last year I fixed the spack issue. Show me a good valve Job!
Right on
I wish I had seen this video 60 yrs ago when I had some of those old style B.S. engines. Good video and which ever you want to do next is fine with me. Thanks Steve!!!
Cool, thanks
Lets convert it to electronic ignition. Good video and series
Not a bad idea
Thanks Steve for all of your fine advice, tips and videos. I'm not small engine savvy, but your videos are so clear and concise, up-close and amazing. You show us how to , why to, and teach so much in an interesting manner. You're a natural teacher. I commend you and appreciate your honesty, comic attitude and ethics in all of your videos. So, Thank you. I have learned a lot, and if I need to learn further, I check out your videos to learn so much. God Bless you and your family. Again, thanks.
You're Welcome...
That engine has balls of steel. Too good
Right on
Steve I'm loving these videos! I would not be the least bit upset if you continue to do series like these. I always enjoy watching videos like this where they take an older piece of equipment and get it running again. I'm working on a '74 merry tiller with the 5 hp wisconsin engine myself, So it's really nice to see someone on RUclips that is kind of following along doing the same thing. Keep it up! Love the videos!
Glad you like them!
looking forward to seeing valve repair.....thumbs up !
Coming soon!
Great content. Take care of the valves next. Explain why you replace the bent valve with the appropriate new one.
Great suggestion!
Steven and April I, hope all is well up north. I'm down in sunny Florida, The Season's ready to take off full swing. I'd like to see you jump right into the valves. The toilet bowl cleaner for rust, hell of an idea. I've been using other products. Love the knowledge. Have a good day Steve.
Thank You...
Hope you have enough Stella to get that Briggs running! All your videos are great!👍
Thanks 👍
Steve, did you ever fix Buckins Maculloch generator?
You bet!
Is there a video on that. You were going to clean the carb and gas tank
Hey Steve for the grand finale can you get Bob and Doug Mckenzie for a beer hunter special ? now that would be a beauty eh ? the rebuild is a really good idea, going to learn a lot and have fun along the way.
Right on Dave!
Thanks for the tip, now I know what to do..Thanks, Subscribed!!!
Awesome, thank you!
I vote spark next! :) but either is grand :) nice one
Thank You...
Once again thank you Steve
You're Welcome...
More details on the mix to clean the clutch in the ultrasonic
Hey Steve,
Love the videos, like everyone else! I love the fact that you are doing a longer series on an old motor front to back. My vote is to address the valve and compression issue before the spark. Although the spark is probably less costly to dig into, no compression would probably mean you won't proceed further.
Right on
Either or regarding next video Steve mate. Thoroughly enjoying this little mini series thus far..... good content . Short, concise & to the point. 👍🏻🔧
Thanks 👍
Great tip steve great video
Thanks 👍
I love this series . Its got a mustie1 vibe to it!
Loving this series Steve - thanks!
You're Welcome...
As always, excellent information. Appreciate as always. Least I can do is feed the comments with some comment chow. Thank you sir! Balls of steel.
Much appreciated
Amazing how you can fix anything!
Thank You...
Wooo hoooo hello from the uk 🇬🇧. How’s it’s going me old mucker
Rock and Rollin Mick! See ya tomorrow...
What ever you put up i will watch, until the next one stay safe
Thank You...
Nice informative video. Thanks again!!! Valves next
Right on
great job steve
Thank You...
Could watch this all day
Thank You...