The only CF I have printed is Atomic CF PETG and have had zero issues clogging on a 0.4mm nozzle X. I’ve been eyeing some of the Proto-Pasta CF offerings though.
As a hobbyist I hated changing nozzles, so the Revo system for me is perfect. I find myself changing nozzles, as often a I change filament types. Ordered the 0.6 and 0.4 obxidian today. Price higher than what I would have liked, but what I was expecting. Prusa Mini Plus with Revo, a win win In my opinion
@@3DMusketeers if it’s the last nozzle you buy, it kind of makes the standard Revo nozzle seem expensive. When the obsidian nozzles arrives, I’ll be trying print PC blend on my mini.
I run a Revo Voron in my Voron 2.4R2. It's one of the few hotends that are "officially" supported by the Voron team now, which is cool. The toolless nozzle changes are cool, but in practice it's not really any faster than a tooled nozzle change unless you macro in large (like, 18mm) retractions at the end of your prints. It heats up quick (only my Rapido is faster), but I've had TWO thermistors burn out. E3D has sent me replacements without any pushback, but this has led me to question just how robust the Revo ecosystem can ever really be. With V6-style hotends, if your thermistor goes out, you just pop a new one in. Tons of different vendors have them for cheap, and you can usually get them on Amazon the same day or next day. With the Revo, you have to replace the entire heater/thermistor assembly-- which is patented and only sold by E3D. Harder to find, harder to change, and WAY more expensive. The maximum volumetric flow rate is also lower than a standard V6. I didn't know this until I really started tuning my Voron, but it quickly becomes a limiting factor (which is why I ended up purchasing a Rapido). I want to love it, but there are just too many drawbacks. I still pre-ordered 0.4 and 0.6 obXidian nozzle when that went live today, but flow is so low that I'll most likely just mount the Revo to my Prusa Mini and just use them on there. If/when they come out with high flow obXidian nozzles, however, I'll definitely be interested.
Yep for vorons I'm torn on it because of the low flow. I've noticed the thermistor and heater core issues too. They have made some hardware changes so I do hope they get more reliable. Both of mine have been bulletproof but I know there is a failure rate in them. I do think there's good value to these nozzles and at $44 that's so cheap IMO. I was, clearly, expecting around $70 lol. I do want to see high flow too! Time will tell!
@@3DMusketeers $44 ain't bad at all. I spent about $100 on a Diamondback 0.4 a while back. Totally worth it, IMO, but I won't deny that the price was a little hard to choke down at first. But it has been absolutely bulletproof. I've put thousands of hours of print time on it with CF filament and it still works exactly the same as it did when it was new. If the obxidians get anywhere near that, they're a steal.
I have a prusa nozzle version of the obxidian and like it so far. Also, if you needed to use a .4mm with chopped fibre filaments, running it a bit hotter, and lowering your retraction distances could get you there.
Cheap ground CF pla filiment works great for adding texture for printing tropical fish breeding supplies. I'll probably be picking up an obsidian just for that
@@3DMusketeers No way I didn't know you were an aquarium guy! That's a good point I haven't messed with fuzzy skin at all yet. I print pleco caves and cones for angelfish and discus mostly. Should probably get into printing frag plugs and reef gear there seems to be done decent money in that.
I have WAYYYYYYY too many tanks. Mind you, most are my brother's but between weir guards, printed locline, shrimp breeding huts and such, there are many printed parts in the normal tanks! I believe there is over 600gal of tanks inside and outside of my house.
Chopped or ground CF should never be used where it can come in contact with skin or fish. The exposed ends of the fiber have properties similar to asbestos, and will bounce around in your bloodstream causing microperforations in your blood vessels and, eventually, arteriosclerosis.
I was waiting for a hardened nozzle before even considering a Revo. Once those are available, I'll be taking a serious look. Thanks for the new and review.
Glad you used a reputable brand of carbon fiber PLA. I have a spool of no-name brand Chinese stuff, and it's hard to tell if even the "PLA" part is true, never mind the carbon fiber.
I'm absolutely getting one, but not right now. And I don't know what size/sizes. I'm using a 0,5mm NozzleX right now which is a great size for all my needs
Another great episode, Grant. Now that the Obxidian is out, I'm going to have to switch my last non-E3D machine to a revo. The only nozzle/heatbreak I ever bent was a titanium K-head from an OpenBeam Delta Kossel Pro. Z-Designs appears not to exist anymore. I had to design my own effector to fit a V6 because I couldn't find a replacement at any cost. :/
I have been using 0.4mm Phaetus tungsten carbide nozzles for a while now. 10+ kg CF and GF filaments and 0 clogs so far. My opinion is that clogs are sign of poorly designed extruder or hotend or combination of them both. Bowden is also guilty when poorly configured. Only clog I had in 4 years was thanks to PVA :D And before anybody asks - I only use direct drive extuders :D
@@3DMusketeers This is actually really good point. I did review my filaments properties and I have to admit that almost half of it must be with milled CF as the manufactures dont state that they use long fibres. At least 5+ kg was FormFutura CarbonFil that contains "...relatively long stringer carbon fibres", whatever that means in the real life. Rest of it is mostly Fiberlogy CF and GF. In other hand tungsten carbide is is low friction material. You should test it out, I really can recommend those. But for me - its time to get some filament with the long fibers because I have to get a clog now :D PS. best material to clean up the nozzle after using CF materials is glow in the dark PLA
I've had them for a while, before starting the channel LOL. I don't mind them, but now with the diamond nozzles I don't know if I'll go back to tungsten. I'm a bit spoiled in that regard ha ha
Great video for us Bambu users to watch now. Why? Because E3D and Bambu have collaborated to make P1 and X1 compatible Obxidian nozzles. And Big Tree Tech has announced a Revo hotend compatible with the Bambu P1 and X1 series printers. So now I'm here watching this. Especially after having a BL hardened steel nozzle fail do to poor manufacturing.
I dont know why this happens.. It looked fine on the editing, but I think there is an issue with the monitor our Editor uses.. It is his job to review these things. I was on a plane all day and driving the rest of it :/
You just saved my Revo nozzle by stating that if you only run a few grams of Glow in the dark, I'll have a bad time. I thought I could do a couple of prints while waiting for my ObXidian... Guess I'll wait!
Ordered two 0.4 and two 0.6 (one each for the MK3S and the Mini), as they are the ones available to pre-order today. Waiting for the conversion but I think it came out to $200 for 4 nozzles including shipping.
Out of curiousity what is the reason for carbon fiber. The reason I ask is I'm looking into what kinds of materials might work for my parents. They have a 90's car with a broken part and asked if I could print it. I think PLA is out of the question, I'm considering PETG. They did tell me though if it's hot out they put the top down. So it shouldn't ever get super, super hot. But I'm still concerned about heat. I mentioned the new prusament (holy crap is that expensive) would be the best choice, but I don't have a heated enclosure. ASA MIGHT be a possibility, it seems like it's pushing it's luck. So I think PETG might do the trick. I'm just wondering if carbon fiber adds anything to temperature resistance or anything that might be worth it for this function.
Most dash boards are ABS or ASA. Petg will work likely. Mind you, it gets hotter with the top up because it turns into an oven basically. You can try a PC material if it doesn't work as PETG. We use Poly maker Poly Lite PC with good experience.
if its NEVER parked outside, then yeah it is totally fine. PETG will get soft around 180F and at that temp they are either going to be dead or really close to it :/, but if they take it out and go somewhere and then put the top up, it could get hot enough. Start with PETG and see how it works!
teflon would flake off at the temps used and the stickiness of the plastics. Abrasives would take it right off. Some companies have a coating, heck even E3D puts it on the nozzle X, not sure if it is on this though. The bimetal is a pain though as thermal expansion is different for different materials. Hope this helps!
I expected it to cost more than that. It's not bad at all. Will I get an obxidian? I don't know. I only print in basic PLA. I am considering getting a .25 nozzle for my revo. For me it's less about speed and more about quality. But I've been checking out videos and I don't know if it's worth it.
@@3DMusketeers I have dogs. But keep in mind the filament is either in a bag vacuumed out (I have those special vacuum bags) or in a filament dryer so the odds of that happening with dog hair is minimal.
i recently played with cf nylon and noticed it doesn't play nice pushing or pulling through ptfe. i had to build a pully for my dryer box that i normally pull from through a ptfe tube. so i wonder if your .4 fiber clogs are more due to bowden extruder.
Our Canadian neighbors will see some higher prices for sure.. it may be best to wait for them to hit resellers there to avoid import tax issues and such too?
Thanks dude! Been waiting for the regular obxidian nozzles, and finally just ordered a slice engineering vanadium nozzle for normal e3d hotend. Got the 0.6 obxidian revo on preorder from matterhackers
The only CF I have printed is Atomic CF PETG and have had zero issues clogging on a 0.4mm nozzle X. I’ve been eyeing some of the Proto-Pasta CF offerings though.
Their stuff is really good too! I find the CF PLA to be harder than PETG, don't know why..
Hoping to learn more about Proto Pasta this weekend!
As a hobbyist I hated changing nozzles, so the Revo system for me is perfect. I find myself changing nozzles, as often a I change filament types. Ordered the 0.6 and 0.4 obxidian today. Price higher than what I would have liked, but what I was expecting. Prusa Mini Plus with Revo, a win win In my opinion
$40ish per nozzle is a STEAL! I was expecting much higher, but of course I have been messing with them for a while now!
@@3DMusketeers yeah I thought it was going to be $100.
That's basically 2 regular nozzles at $40.
Exactly, the price confused me really. Like, why would you NOT buy it with an ObXidian? It is not that much more expensive.......
@@3DMusketeers if it’s the last nozzle you buy, it kind of makes the standard Revo nozzle seem expensive. When the obsidian nozzles arrives, I’ll be trying print PC blend on my mini.
I run a Revo Voron in my Voron 2.4R2. It's one of the few hotends that are "officially" supported by the Voron team now, which is cool. The toolless nozzle changes are cool, but in practice it's not really any faster than a tooled nozzle change unless you macro in large (like, 18mm) retractions at the end of your prints. It heats up quick (only my Rapido is faster), but I've had TWO thermistors burn out. E3D has sent me replacements without any pushback, but this has led me to question just how robust the Revo ecosystem can ever really be. With V6-style hotends, if your thermistor goes out, you just pop a new one in. Tons of different vendors have them for cheap, and you can usually get them on Amazon the same day or next day. With the Revo, you have to replace the entire heater/thermistor assembly-- which is patented and only sold by E3D. Harder to find, harder to change, and WAY more expensive. The maximum volumetric flow rate is also lower than a standard V6. I didn't know this until I really started tuning my Voron, but it quickly becomes a limiting factor (which is why I ended up purchasing a Rapido). I want to love it, but there are just too many drawbacks. I still pre-ordered 0.4 and 0.6 obXidian nozzle when that went live today, but flow is so low that I'll most likely just mount the Revo to my Prusa Mini and just use them on there. If/when they come out with high flow obXidian nozzles, however, I'll definitely be interested.
Yep for vorons I'm torn on it because of the low flow.
I've noticed the thermistor and heater core issues too. They have made some hardware changes so I do hope they get more reliable. Both of mine have been bulletproof but I know there is a failure rate in them.
I do think there's good value to these nozzles and at $44 that's so cheap IMO. I was, clearly, expecting around $70 lol.
I do want to see high flow too! Time will tell!
@@3DMusketeers $44 ain't bad at all. I spent about $100 on a Diamondback 0.4 a while back. Totally worth it, IMO, but I won't deny that the price was a little hard to choke down at first. But it has been absolutely bulletproof. I've put thousands of hours of print time on it with CF filament and it still works exactly the same as it did when it was new. If the obxidians get anywhere near that, they're a steal.
That's what I'm saying!
I have a prusa nozzle version of the obxidian and like it so far.
Also, if you needed to use a .4mm with chopped fibre filaments, running it a bit hotter, and lowering your retraction distances could get you there.
yeah, you can do it, but its not always very happy lol
@@3DMusketeers oh yeah, that's too much of a gamble for my blood
same. I will deal with the 0.6
Cheap ground CF pla filiment works great for adding texture for printing tropical fish breeding supplies. I'll probably be picking up an obsidian just for that
Wouldn't fuzzy skin feature work for that too? I've always done floating 'mops' for our fish to breed on but it's all freshwater
@@3DMusketeers No way I didn't know you were an aquarium guy! That's a good point I haven't messed with fuzzy skin at all yet. I print pleco caves and cones for angelfish and discus mostly. Should probably get into printing frag plugs and reef gear there seems to be done decent money in that.
I have WAYYYYYYY too many tanks. Mind you, most are my brother's but between weir guards, printed locline, shrimp breeding huts and such, there are many printed parts in the normal tanks! I believe there is over 600gal of tanks inside and outside of my house.
Chopped or ground CF should never be used where it can come in contact with skin or fish. The exposed ends of the fiber have properties similar to asbestos, and will bounce around in your bloodstream causing microperforations in your blood vessels and, eventually, arteriosclerosis.
Good point! Thankfully we are just normal pla and PETG here.
I was waiting for a hardened nozzle before even considering a Revo. Once those are available, I'll be taking a serious look. Thanks for the new and review.
Looks like early to mid November, so not much longer now!
Glad you used a reputable brand of carbon fiber PLA. I have a spool of no-name brand Chinese stuff, and it's hard to tell if even the "PLA" part is true, never mind the carbon fiber.
oh yeah! 3DX Tech is my go to for exotics!
I'm absolutely getting one, but not right now. And I don't know what size/sizes. I'm using a 0,5mm NozzleX right now which is a great size for all my needs
I dont think you will see much degredation with a 0.6mm ObXidian!
Another great episode, Grant.
Now that the Obxidian is out, I'm going to have to switch my last non-E3D machine to a revo.
The only nozzle/heatbreak I ever bent was a titanium K-head from an OpenBeam Delta Kossel Pro. Z-Designs appears not to exist anymore. I had to design my own effector to fit a V6 because I couldn't find a replacement at any cost. :/
We all have done it once for sure!
I have been using 0.4mm Phaetus tungsten carbide nozzles for a while now. 10+ kg CF and GF filaments and 0 clogs so far.
My opinion is that clogs are sign of poorly designed extruder or hotend or combination of them both. Bowden is also guilty when poorly configured.
Only clog I had in 4 years was thanks to PVA :D
And before anybody asks - I only use direct drive extuders :D
I disagree. Good quality CF has long strand CF or gf in it. Because of this, 0.4 is at risk. Most manufacturers recommend 0.6 or above for abrasives.
@@3DMusketeers This is actually really good point. I did review my filaments properties and I have to admit that almost half of it must be with milled CF as the manufactures dont state that they use long fibres. At least 5+ kg was FormFutura CarbonFil that contains "...relatively long stringer carbon fibres", whatever that means in the real life. Rest of it is mostly Fiberlogy CF and GF.
In other hand tungsten carbide is is low friction material. You should test it out, I really can recommend those.
But for me - its time to get some filament with the long fibers because I have to get a clog now :D
PS. best material to clean up the nozzle after using CF materials is glow in the dark PLA
I've had them for a while, before starting the channel LOL. I don't mind them, but now with the diamond nozzles I don't know if I'll go back to tungsten. I'm a bit spoiled in that regard ha ha
Great video for us Bambu users to watch now. Why? Because E3D and Bambu have collaborated to make P1 and X1 compatible Obxidian nozzles. And Big Tree Tech has announced a Revo hotend compatible with the Bambu P1 and X1 series printers. So now I'm here watching this. Especially after having a BL hardened steel nozzle fail do to poor manufacturing.
We will have a video out on those Bambu E3D nozzles soonish :)
Are you going to review the new V6 and Volcano ObXidian nozzles?
Not sure. Is there much of a need? Should perform like the ones for revo.
Might need some eye liner and powder. That lighting is bright!
I dont know why this happens.. It looked fine on the editing, but I think there is an issue with the monitor our Editor uses.. It is his job to review these things. I was on a plane all day and driving the rest of it :/
You just saved my Revo nozzle by stating that if you only run a few grams of Glow in the dark, I'll have a bad time. I thought I could do a couple of prints while waiting for my ObXidian... Guess I'll wait!
glad we got to you in time!
Ordered two 0.4 and two 0.6 (one each for the MK3S and the Mini), as they are the ones available to pre-order today. Waiting for the conversion but I think it came out to $200 for 4 nozzles including shipping.
Not bad with the shipping!
@@3DMusketeers see you Saturday at ERRF!
Heck yeah!
Out of curiousity what is the reason for carbon fiber. The reason I ask is I'm looking into what kinds of materials might work for my parents. They have a 90's car with a broken part and asked if I could print it. I think PLA is out of the question, I'm considering PETG. They did tell me though if it's hot out they put the top down. So it shouldn't ever get super, super hot. But I'm still concerned about heat. I mentioned the new prusament (holy crap is that expensive) would be the best choice, but I don't have a heated enclosure. ASA MIGHT be a possibility, it seems like it's pushing it's luck. So I think PETG might do the trick. I'm just wondering if carbon fiber adds anything to temperature resistance or anything that might be worth it for this function.
Most dash boards are ABS or ASA. Petg will work likely. Mind you, it gets hotter with the top up because it turns into an oven basically.
You can try a PC material if it doesn't work as PETG. We use Poly maker Poly Lite PC with good experience.
@@3DMusketeers they tell me it's either in the garage or the top is down if it's hot. lol
if its NEVER parked outside, then yeah it is totally fine. PETG will get soft around 180F and at that temp they are either going to be dead or really close to it :/, but if they take it out and go somewhere and then put the top up, it could get hot enough. Start with PETG and see how it works!
@@3DMusketeers yeah I told them PETG is pretty cheep. So it's a great place to start. I had no idea how expensive that prusa nylon was. LMAO I do now!
Nylon is generally very pricey but gosh is it ever strong!
So why don't they make a brass/steel sleeved nozzle with a teflon coating on the outside of the nozzle?
teflon would flake off at the temps used and the stickiness of the plastics. Abrasives would take it right off. Some companies have a coating, heck even E3D puts it on the nozzle X, not sure if it is on this though. The bimetal is a pain though as thermal expansion is different for different materials.
Hope this helps!
I really wish there was a higher flow revo hotend. I usually run thicker and taller layers and the revo would force me to run under 100mm/s.
I'm sure it's in the works! They are working on getting the ones out with the largest demand in the market with others to follow!
Yea! I should be able to join "only grants". Hope membership comes with a free obsidian nozzle.
I mean.. if anyone, it should be you LOL
I expected it to cost more than that. It's not bad at all. Will I get an obxidian? I don't know. I only print in basic PLA. I am considering getting a .25 nozzle for my revo. For me it's less about speed and more about quality. But I've been checking out videos and I don't know if it's worth it.
0.25 is great for quality but be careful it can easily clog.
@@3DMusketeers I didn't think of that. Then again I haven't had too much trouble with that. Only in the beginning before I worked out correct temps.
have a cat? Cat hair will easily clog a 0.25 LOL
@@3DMusketeers I have dogs. But keep in mind the filament is either in a bag vacuumed out (I have those special vacuum bags) or in a filament dryer so the odds of that happening with dog hair is minimal.
Very fair! Give it a shot!
i recently played with cf nylon and noticed it doesn't play nice pushing or pulling through ptfe. i had to build a pully for my dryer box that i normally pull from through a ptfe tube. so i wonder if your .4 fiber clogs are more due to bowden extruder.
I threw the 0.6 on, adjusted the nozzle diameter and left the rest the same. No issues at all :/ It is likely the long fibers I figure..
Looking at them right now and there sold out. Or not fs yet?
they are on preorder still. shipping mid november
Ordered 0.4 and 0.6 as with shipping it comes to 146 cad
Our Canadian neighbors will see some higher prices for sure.. it may be best to wait for them to hit resellers there to avoid import tax issues and such too?
have you heard about the new revo diamondback nozzle? Also, have you heard about the bird? :)
Everyone's heard about the bird.
And yes. Stay tuned. We checked them out at errf/3dprintopia and will have a video soon
had to give it a dislike for the 10 minutes of unskipable adds
That's not up to us. That's RUclips. Don't punish creators for things we can't control.
Thanks dude! Been waiting for the regular obxidian nozzles, and finally just ordered a slice engineering vanadium nozzle for normal e3d hotend.
Got the 0.6 obxidian revo on preorder from matterhackers
I'm really digging the .6 myself. It's been great.
@@3DMusketeers Thomas Sanladerer has convinced me to try 0.6, and this was the perfect excuse!
but then he also talked a bunch about the 0.4 being good too!