I love print fix fridays the way it is. Don’t care if it is the same issues over and over. I like hearing your thought process for troubleshooting. For now. 😅 thanks for the amazing content!
I've washed motherboards, GPU,s sound cards, etc in the sink with dawn dish soap/rags/soft bristle brushes. Rinse off well, and if there's no IPA you can get away with Distilled water rinse and dry. Never had anyone of at least 50 not fire up and in some cases funky issues have been resolved with a bath. Lol
I'm actually a Cura to Orca user as well, the learning curve is there but you'll learn your way around where settings are and how to manage multiple printers, I now have a SV06 profile for running Klipper, and a "Tina2" profile now, of all things. It's a surprisingly accurate little unit for not even having a heated bed, 60-80mm/s at around 41W max is pretty efficient, it's kinda damn loud though, lol. For soldering a nozzle region, be careful what solder is chosen, as printing temperatures actually reach common melting temps! (google says 190 °C is one of the most common types of solder used for electronics) though that's not being done at the hot end of the nozzle so it might be totally fine for this break. I only know this because I was considering using a bead of solder as a soft gasket to keep a nozzle from leaking, in the end I just egregiously tightened it to solved the issue, monkeybrain wins this round.
I hope Victoria gets better soon. You also asked for print and fix ideas. How about covering intermediate to advanced tuning? Basically talking about how to improve prints that haven't completely failed.
I keep bottles of 99.9ipa everywhere in case of spillage. With a herd of cats they like to knock coffee mugs over and more than once the liquids have found themselves on (or in) open laptops. I keep haptic motors with dupont wires attached for a quick ultrasonic cleaner of sorts haha. I'd own one if I had the room. I went today and bought the nicest sheet of plywood they had at the building shop and cut it up to add more shelves and parts bins in my workshop. Tomorrow they will be hung and I'll get my workshop back. I started restoring /modding old consoles since I have more gear than any electronics repair shop within 500km haha. I am in the planning phase of building a class AB stereo amplifier to listen to cds and vinyl along with an absurd equalizer visualization setup. I tried all sorts of opamps but went with bjts. Great episode g-rant!
@3DMusketeers its my first kick at a diy stereo build so I'm like a sponge for info haha. It's not gonna be super powerful as it's going to live in a room with 2 other sound systems. I'm a Nerd on many levels man.
3:09 A little tip for steps/mm. kept having printers randomly reset to defaults and would forget to set it after mods/repairs. Ended up adding an M92 command to start gcode in Cura and then in octoprint. Have since switched to Klipper which eliminated the issue by storing everything in cfg files.
Retro recipes cleaned a C64 board by putting it in the dishwasher. He actually recommends detergent. He says detergent contains anti-corrosives (you put silverware in there). He even put a go pro in there so we could watch. lol It worked great. I cleaned my C64 before fixing it with 70% IPA (it's all I had). I just dumped it on there and scrubbed with a toothbrush. 40 years old and looks brand new after that. The tooth brush turned black. It was filthy. lol I've also seen a number of retro youtubers clean them with soap and water, but then chase it with IPA to dry it out.
I had a pretty bad experience with Revo unfortunately. I ordered a full set basically day one and had a good time with it until my heater core failed. Then I had the unscrewing issue that killed a $150 fulament build plate and a 0.4 mm nozzle. Then my warranty replacement heater core died again. I ended up buying a new core and next chance I got I bought a dragon hf. I can't say it's the revo's fault though I'm incredibly unlucky with 3d printer parts. I have had almost everything in my machine die at least once so it's to be expected lol
No actual print fails for me this week. I did 3 prints on the mk4. All of them turned out really well. I did do a 100% first layer. It's not quite perfect, but pretty damn close. A couple of spots it's just slightly too close to the bed. I did discover something interesting. When I printed the prusa mk4 rocket engine I used galaxy silver (free sample) thinking it was enough, but it wasn't. At first it wouldn't load. So I cut the tip off. It loaded fine. When it ran out it wouldn't unload. It was a bitch to get it out. FAR FAR worse than the mk3. The idler door is much more cramped than the mk3 is. I eventually got it, but man what a pain. When I did the robo alpaca, I used the free sample of galaxy black knowing it wouldn't be enough, except this time I had the free spool of galaxy black. So this time I cut the tips of both sides of the sample. It loaded perfectly. It unloaded perfectly. So I guess make sure you have nice sharp tips on both ends. BTW one of the best parts of the MK4 is the cooling fan!!!! That sucker blows a MASSIVE amount of air. At least 4x more powerful than the mk3. Prusa should look into getting the mk4 fans on mk3's (or maybe fan submitted upgrades) because damn!
I have a m3ks trying to print with Protopasta Electrically Conductive Composite PLA Filament keeps clogging the 0.6 Obxidian nozzle. I tried different temperatures from 210 to 230 with a bed from 60 to 70 but using the Obxidian nozzle the filament gets stuck in the nozzle and doesn't flow I've done several cold pulls along with using eSuns cleaning filament. Any other recommendations?
Idea for print fix Friday's. Maybe have subscribers send you files for prints that they are struggling to print and you walk through on the slicer how you would position, cut, support and print the part. Could end up being a challenge for you.
@@3DMusketeers I kind of already failed. It has a brim, but I didn't make it bigger. I don't think it's big enough. Also I was supposed to modify the part, which I didn't do. This part will be more used for fitment anyway (no idea if it will be ridged enough for that, but we'll see). I'll probably do another one for testing the aesthetics. It's for the mirror in my dad's car. The corners weren't thick enough. And the back part was too loose. In the meantime they are using the front part with the original back part and seem to be happy with that more or less.
@@3DMusketeers so yeah halfway though it popped off the plate. I forgot to wipe it down after the last print and also the tiny ass brim sure didn't help either. Also.....it may not be a good idea to print PP near where the dogs come in and out of the house. This is the printer's temporary location until I get the MMU3 installed. So I may print the PP on the MK3 instead.
50 likes nice lol ........uhm as adhd maybe you can let see visualize steps in the slicer......i know enough but still .....walls 1234 lines how does it handle these things mean in some occasions if you have more lines you can lay one line against eachoter what makes it allot better...........how does this go grant
@@3DMusketeers maybe ill bug you with messages think this is to much for some lol but now iam curious in cnc there is code for walking on left or right is this in marlin etc 2
@@3DMusketeers iam in trouble but if i got time can you learn me this...i did 3 years cnc toolmaker school in a row its in my head ....with bit help i think i understand and can use it sir....whats totally on the road to my goal... wanna be pro just like you lol....then make ppl addicted 2 so they buy a printer
Tech. Tuesdays All about advancements in software and available parts like water cooled heatsinks, new nozzle and extruder designs, lightweight frames, specialized filament like tool steel infused material. It's not all expensive buy it costs more so the question is are all of the advancements worth it or do some not live up to the hype ? You push the diamond nozzles but it would be nice to see comparisons with other nozzles to push the point That's if the product can and does live up to the hype Bozzles, ruby's, diamonds, CHT's, knock off CHT's, stainless, hardened steel, hardened brass, etc Shit, you might inadvertently pick up a few new sponsors and on RUclips every penny counts What's a million views worth ? Probably less than $100
We looked at a tech tuesday series, but ADDING more content is a ton of work right now that I simply dont have the throughput for. The problem with comparing nozzles is the ability and cost to test them. Do we need to run like $800 in CF Nylon through each, etc? The testing has always been the big question, but we do have a project to show how crazy diamond is. We would not allow sponsors for a video where we are comparing products unless that sponsor does not have a product in the showcase, otherwise it can be seen as a bribe, you know?
@3DMusketeers time will always be our biggest enemy Perhaps instead of testing head to head just updates and upgrades ? I know your X1C has been constantly kicking you in the nuts where as others are happily riding the Bambu train I'm not one to leave things alone so I'm constantly upgrading my X1C as my research and development I see gains traction Some of my changes get scrutiny so now I just keep it all to myself CHT clone, upgraded part cooling duct, Cap tube have all worked Genuine CHT, glass build plate, ptfe guide into the extruder, not so much lol Same with firmware, I use 1.04.01 because 1.05.02 hates my printer I use Orca 1.6.2 currently but might try the newest version of BS I guess we are from different points of view as well, honestly I don't mind the Chinese buffet and every once and a while you strike gold The CHT clone flows better than the genuine but I had to purchase both to find out for myself So I've supported both but in that instance the cheaper version is a more efficient and effective product than the genuine A print fix Friday segment about how to achieve better part cooling with an updated setup like the Hero Me, Scorpion, Fang, etc. for PLA or how to insulate a chamber for higher and more stable heated chamber temps It doesn't necessarily need to cost a lot of money but time is priceless and I don't know how you can internet so much without burning out
Once we can bring in a few more monetary sponsors I can focus more on content, right now I have to get the work to try and pay for the content lol.. all crazy valid.. Trying to keep on thee cusp of burnout constantly is challenging, especially when we push SO MUCH content a week :/ Most other creators are doing 1 video a wee MAX, we do 2 edited, a streamed podcast, among other short form and other streams
drain your caps ppl lol wooh did you say VINGATE AUDIO I love Vintage audio? yes soon i will be vintage chop chop lol caps coils and hold the sandcast resistors lol
@@3DMusketeers Monoblocks and Adcom sounds like a wonderful start to the series I had to cheap out abit and got an emotiva A5175 5 channel 5 yrs ago now and drives very well and clean with good staging i would love to hear your thoughts on DAC's too even though i am not sold on them as of yet
my adcoms are from the 80s, so nothing crazy new, but they are thicccccc I am running an aragon d2a as a dac but have been messing with other stuff as well. Would love to play with emotiva but no cash for that LOL. All my stuff is used, from buddies, some of it on "long term loan"
@@3DMusketeers I have a polk audio monitor 10 tower set that are more musical than todays stuff $/$ i want to redesign the boxes 90deg out so they face narrow width and reuse all drivers and radiators in likely a maple or cherry skin veneer and restore them to new age look with old sound stage they been on the bucket list for a year now and find myself looking up wood lol
Oh, no! So sorry to hear about Victoria. I hope she gets to feeling better soon!
Thanks
I love print fix fridays the way it is. Don’t care if it is the same issues over and over. I like hearing your thought process for troubleshooting. For now. 😅 thanks for the amazing content!
Thanks for your support!
I've washed motherboards, GPU,s sound cards, etc in the sink with dawn dish soap/rags/soft bristle brushes. Rinse off well, and if there's no IPA you can get away with Distilled water rinse and dry. Never had anyone of at least 50 not fire up and in some cases funky issues have been resolved with a bath. Lol
yep distilled works well too, I just like the alcohol because it evaporates easily!
I'm actually a Cura to Orca user as well, the learning curve is there but you'll learn your way around where settings are and how to manage multiple printers, I now have a SV06 profile for running Klipper, and a "Tina2" profile now, of all things. It's a surprisingly accurate little unit for not even having a heated bed, 60-80mm/s at around 41W max is pretty efficient, it's kinda damn loud though, lol.
For soldering a nozzle region, be careful what solder is chosen, as printing temperatures actually reach common melting temps! (google says 190 °C is one of the most common types of solder used for electronics) though that's not being done at the hot end of the nozzle so it might be totally fine for this break. I only know this because I was considering using a bead of solder as a soft gasket to keep a nozzle from leaking, in the end I just egregiously tightened it to solved the issue, monkeybrain wins this round.
Yeah this is up near the heat sink so no heat SHOULD get there. And I think we all know it ends in failure but I'm curious as to when!
Sorry to hear about victoria. Thank you for another print fix friday!
Thank you
I hope Victoria gets better soon. You also asked for print and fix ideas. How about covering intermediate to advanced tuning? Basically talking about how to improve prints that haven't completely failed.
Thank you.
Advanced tuning can be a touchy one really, because it is a bit different for each machine. We can look into it though!
I keep bottles of 99.9ipa everywhere in case of spillage. With a herd of cats they like to knock coffee mugs over and more than once the liquids have found themselves on (or in) open laptops.
I keep haptic motors with dupont wires attached for a quick ultrasonic cleaner of sorts haha. I'd own one if I had the room. I went today and bought the nicest sheet of plywood they had at the building shop and cut it up to add more shelves and parts bins in my workshop. Tomorrow they will be hung and I'll get my workshop back. I started restoring /modding old consoles since I have more gear than any electronics repair shop within 500km haha.
I am in the planning phase of building a class AB stereo amplifier to listen to cds and vinyl along with an absurd equalizer visualization setup. I tried all sorts of opamps but went with bjts.
Great episode g-rant!
oh man if you are going to build it, go full class A. It is crazy inefficient but man are pure Class A amps nice!
@@3DMusketeers hard to deal with crossover distortion with class A. I do have the parts for both.
oh, right, not monoblocks, that is fair!
@3DMusketeers its my first kick at a diy stereo build so I'm like a sponge for info haha. It's not gonna be super powerful as it's going to live in a room with 2 other sound systems. I'm a Nerd on many levels man.
I have a tube amp build I need to finish.. if audio stuff does well I may do a printed case and such for it and film it
3:09 A little tip for steps/mm. kept having printers randomly reset to defaults and would forget to set it after mods/repairs. Ended up adding an M92 command to start gcode in Cura and then in octoprint. Have since switched to Klipper which eliminated the issue by storing everything in cfg files.
YES good idea! Just set it in the start code!
Retro recipes cleaned a C64 board by putting it in the dishwasher. He actually recommends detergent. He says detergent contains anti-corrosives (you put silverware in there). He even put a go pro in there so we could watch. lol It worked great. I cleaned my C64 before fixing it with 70% IPA (it's all I had). I just dumped it on there and scrubbed with a toothbrush. 40 years old and looks brand new after that. The tooth brush turned black. It was filthy. lol I've also seen a number of retro youtubers clean them with soap and water, but then chase it with IPA to dry it out.
with soap I have always used the free and clear soaps, to be safe!
Good video this week!
Thanks Nathan
I had a pretty bad experience with Revo unfortunately. I ordered a full set basically day one and had a good time with it until my heater core failed. Then I had the unscrewing issue that killed a $150 fulament build plate and a 0.4 mm nozzle. Then my warranty replacement heater core died again. I ended up buying a new core and next chance I got I bought a dragon hf.
I can't say it's the revo's fault though I'm incredibly unlucky with 3d printer parts. I have had almost everything in my machine die at least once so it's to be expected lol
oof that is not fun at all! The revos were definitely plagued with early failures in the first units, that is no bueno
I hope Victoria feels better soon.
thank you!
No actual print fails for me this week. I did 3 prints on the mk4. All of them turned out really well. I did do a 100% first layer. It's not quite perfect, but pretty damn close. A couple of spots it's just slightly too close to the bed. I did discover something interesting. When I printed the prusa mk4 rocket engine I used galaxy silver (free sample) thinking it was enough, but it wasn't. At first it wouldn't load. So I cut the tip off. It loaded fine. When it ran out it wouldn't unload. It was a bitch to get it out. FAR FAR worse than the mk3. The idler door is much more cramped than the mk3 is. I eventually got it, but man what a pain. When I did the robo alpaca, I used the free sample of galaxy black knowing it wouldn't be enough, except this time I had the free spool of galaxy black. So this time I cut the tips of both sides of the sample. It loaded perfectly. It unloaded perfectly. So I guess make sure you have nice sharp tips on both ends. BTW one of the best parts of the MK4 is the cooling fan!!!! That sucker blows a MASSIVE amount of air. At least 4x more powerful than the mk3. Prusa should look into getting the mk4 fans on mk3's (or maybe fan submitted upgrades) because damn!
oh, good to know!
If you are diving into klipper maybe klipper specific printer fails? It may be a heap of great stuff you could help the klipper noobs like myself with
Yeah it's been a thought. I need the time to run it alas.
I have a m3ks trying to print with Protopasta Electrically Conductive Composite PLA Filament keeps clogging the 0.6 Obxidian nozzle. I tried different temperatures from 210 to 230 with a bed from 60 to 70 but using the Obxidian nozzle the filament gets stuck in the nozzle and doesn't flow I've done several cold pulls along with using eSuns cleaning filament. Any other recommendations?
I don't have much experience with it, but I would recommend slowing down the speed to see if that helps
Idea for print fix Friday's. Maybe have subscribers send you files for prints that they are struggling to print and you walk through on the slicer how you would position, cut, support and print the part. Could end up being a challenge for you.
gosh the crap people would send! it would also require getting REALLY ahead in the content as we wait for people to send prints and such
@3DMusketeers you can't say it wouldn't be fun and challenging tho.
I mean, yeah..
Sending good thoughts to kitty!!
Thanks!
Meme fail Friday for episode 100, of course!
well, yes.
We'll see if I get fails for next week. I'm about to put the PP in the MK4 today. If anything is going to fail, that would be it. lol
oh gosh lol
@@3DMusketeers I kind of already failed. It has a brim, but I didn't make it bigger. I don't think it's big enough. Also I was supposed to modify the part, which I didn't do. This part will be more used for fitment anyway (no idea if it will be ridged enough for that, but we'll see). I'll probably do another one for testing the aesthetics. It's for the mirror in my dad's car. The corners weren't thick enough. And the back part was too loose. In the meantime they are using the front part with the original back part and seem to be happy with that more or less.
well at least you have a solution so far!
@@3DMusketeers so yeah halfway though it popped off the plate. I forgot to wipe it down after the last print and also the tiny ass brim sure didn't help either. Also.....it may not be a good idea to print PP near where the dogs come in and out of the house. This is the printer's temporary location until I get the MMU3 installed. So I may print the PP on the MK3 instead.
oh yeah, you want that printer isolated for sure
If you've used an Ender 3 pro you've used a Elegoo Neptune 3 pro.... Same thing! I love my N3P! Replaced my Robo 3D R1 lol
I am interested in the 4 series honestly.
@@3DMusketeers yeah that would definitely be the one to get.... 👍
definitely!
M500 save your chit!
lolol
@@3DMusketeers hey you laughed but dident like what are you liberal? lol cheers
i dont just dole out those hearts for no reason ;)
@@3DMusketeers remember the red rider bb gun story lol cheers I look to the next video soon
lolol
nice text grant instantly got my attention broke that thing ??? how lol lets see SMASHHH THAT BUTTON for the musketeers
yeah!
🍿
:)
50 likes nice lol ........uhm as adhd maybe you can let see visualize steps in the slicer......i know enough but still .....walls 1234 lines how does it handle these things mean in some occasions if you have more lines you can lay one line against eachoter what makes it allot better...........how does this go grant
you absolutely can, heck even go by lines in the gcode
@@3DMusketeers maybe ill bug you with messages think this is to much for some lol but now iam curious in cnc there is code for walking on left or right is this in marlin etc 2
yes there is
@@3DMusketeers iam in trouble but if i got time can you learn me this...i did 3 years cnc toolmaker school in a row its in my head ....with bit help i think i understand and can use it sir....whats totally on the road to my goal... wanna be pro just like you lol....then make ppl addicted 2 so they buy a printer
I am far from an expert, but I try. Never stop learning, you will get there
Tech. Tuesdays
All about advancements in software and available parts like water cooled heatsinks, new nozzle and extruder designs, lightweight frames, specialized filament like tool steel infused material.
It's not all expensive buy it costs more so the question is are all of the advancements worth it or do some not live up to the hype ?
You push the diamond nozzles but it would be nice to see comparisons with other nozzles to push the point
That's if the product can and does live up to the hype
Bozzles, ruby's, diamonds, CHT's, knock off CHT's, stainless, hardened steel, hardened brass, etc
Shit, you might inadvertently pick up a few new sponsors and on RUclips every penny counts
What's a million views worth ? Probably less than $100
We looked at a tech tuesday series, but ADDING more content is a ton of work right now that I simply dont have the throughput for.
The problem with comparing nozzles is the ability and cost to test them. Do we need to run like $800 in CF Nylon through each, etc? The testing has always been the big question, but we do have a project to show how crazy diamond is.
We would not allow sponsors for a video where we are comparing products unless that sponsor does not have a product in the showcase, otherwise it can be seen as a bribe, you know?
@3DMusketeers time will always be our biggest enemy
Perhaps instead of testing head to head just updates and upgrades ?
I know your X1C has been constantly kicking you in the nuts where as others are happily riding the Bambu train
I'm not one to leave things alone so I'm constantly upgrading my X1C as my research and development I see gains traction
Some of my changes get scrutiny so now I just keep it all to myself
CHT clone, upgraded part cooling duct, Cap tube have all worked
Genuine CHT, glass build plate, ptfe guide into the extruder, not so much lol
Same with firmware, I use 1.04.01 because 1.05.02 hates my printer
I use Orca 1.6.2 currently but might try the newest version of BS
I guess we are from different points of view as well, honestly I don't mind the Chinese buffet and every once and a while you strike gold
The CHT clone flows better than the genuine but I had to purchase both to find out for myself
So I've supported both but in that instance the cheaper version is a more efficient and effective product than the genuine
A print fix Friday segment about how to achieve better part cooling with an updated setup like the Hero Me, Scorpion, Fang, etc. for PLA or how to insulate a chamber for higher and more stable heated chamber temps
It doesn't necessarily need to cost a lot of money but time is priceless and I don't know how you can internet so much without burning out
Once we can bring in a few more monetary sponsors I can focus more on content, right now I have to get the work to try and pay for the content lol..
all crazy valid.. Trying to keep on thee cusp of burnout constantly is challenging, especially when we push SO MUCH content a week :/ Most other creators are doing 1 video a wee MAX, we do 2 edited, a streamed podcast, among other short form and other streams
drain your caps ppl lol wooh did you say VINGATE AUDIO I love Vintage audio? yes soon i will be vintage chop chop lol caps coils and hold the sandcast resistors lol
The mains in that room need a set of BIG monoblocks to run well ;)
Using a set of Adcom GFA565's to get the watts to the speakers!
@@3DMusketeers Monoblocks and Adcom sounds like a wonderful start to the series I had to cheap out abit and got an emotiva A5175 5 channel 5 yrs ago now and drives very well and clean with good staging i would love to hear your thoughts on DAC's too even though i am not sold on them as of yet
although the new 9038PRO DAC chip seems promising
my adcoms are from the 80s, so nothing crazy new, but they are thicccccc
I am running an aragon d2a as a dac but have been messing with other stuff as well. Would love to play with emotiva but no cash for that LOL. All my stuff is used, from buddies, some of it on "long term loan"
@@3DMusketeers I have a polk audio monitor 10 tower set that are more musical than todays stuff $/$ i want to redesign the boxes 90deg out so they face narrow width and reuse all drivers and radiators in likely a maple or cherry skin veneer and restore them to new age look with old sound stage they been on the bucket list for a year now and find myself looking up wood lol
🤮Hope it is just a hairball.
heres hoping!