How to Build the Best Delta 3D Printer for the Money in 2020
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- The Flsun Q5 delta style 3D printer is a great design! The control board failing on me was just the excuse I needed to upgrade to a Duet 2 WiFi. I made this detailed video as a how to for anyone wanting to similarly upgrade their Delta 3D printer with a Duet control board.
Table of Contents:
1:21 Introduction
7:33 The Plan
9:28 CAD Drawing
12:36 Wiring
26:13 WiFi and Firmware
33:09 Calibrating
43:16 Conclusion
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The step down Voltage Regultor AKA Buck Converter that I used: www.ebay.com/i...
Just another killer video. No one is doing this kind of in depth Duet stuff. It’s really needed too.
500 prints later and this delta is still running the way it came out of the box i guess i didnt get a lemon
I love that you can admit to your own mistakes! It really goes to show that you want to share your experiences and teach the viewer something. Too many other RUclipsrs lack that kind of professionalism.
I get a 2 years old Duet WIFI 1.02 from EBay and did it - the result is terrific. Circumstances I thought coming from slicer, caused a lot of wasted time, filament and trouble, are belonging to the past. The dimensions are perfect, the prints are running fast, remote monitoring makes life easier - I am absolutely thrilled.
But one thing cost me a lot of time: Firmware 3.1.1 changed the connection of z-probe from "E0" to "Z Probe Header", Pin1 blue, pin2 green, pin3 empty, pin4 red (seen from front).
entry in config.g:
"...
M558 P5 C"^!zprobe.in" H5 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to switch and the dive height + speeds
..."
I agree with everything you're saying, but price is still king. If you're spending $300 to upgrade a $200 printer, it's no longer a competitor against $200 printers.
@@SystemsPlanet even if it does there's two problems as cool as it is to see a budget machine upgraded to perform at a higher level :
(1) it should have been functional out-of-the-box
(2) convenience is a feature too
So I bought a Rostock V2 back in '14 and straight away the ezstruder didn't work worth a darn. The hotend self-destructed, the arms kept popping apart during a print, bed leveling was strictly manual, accuracy of the prints was marginal at best, the power supply died after about three months, and the RAMPS board was crap. All for $1000.
The one thing that SeeMeCNC has going for them is their fantastic forum support. It's really second to none.
If you own a delta (thanks anyway, but I have been cured), then you have to expect that some upgrades are going to be a necessity. So there is an argument to buying low knowing that you are going to have to spend money to get it working the way that it should anyway.
@@SystemsPlanet Also assuming your time is worth absolutely nothing.
@@NotTheStinkyCheese Well to be fair, it's a $239 printer and a $170 board, making it a $409 printer (plus shipping and apparently hours of aggravation). In the end you have a very good printer, as he said, perhaps the best printer available in 2020. On the plus side, making one means you know it well. On the down side, well there are only a handful of them in the world. Something like the Ender 5 Pro may not be as good but there are many upgrades available. Still, doesn't anyone make a delta that works out of the box? I'm looking for a 3D printer to prototype electronics enclosures and am fascinated by the deltas. This one is just about big enough...
@@Jim-ei2iv once you get it all dialed in, you don't need any upgrades. Besides, if you buy something commercial then you may be in a position of having to use some proprietary parts or have stuff you can't replace. By building your own, you can choose to use mainstream parts which makes it easier to continue to modify and service in the future.
For example. If you use a genuine e3d v6 hot end, all upgrades and updates and service/maintenance parts are yours for the taking.
why not use SKR 1.4 instead ? Could you do a comparison between these two please!
Your videos have an excellent combination of critique, technical insight and blue collar installation methodology which makes them valuable!
In my opinion your solution to every printer issue is "just stick a duet in there". I understand this from a usability point of view but financially it makes absolutely no sense. I'd really love if you gave Klipper or flashing a modified Marlin on that board a try before you swap to a duet. For many people buying another 100-200 dollars in parts to replace already working parts is just not an option.
Moving to 32-bit on a Delta is absolutely 100% mandatory. No ifs, ands, or buts about it. 8-bit CPUs simply can't process the kind of calculations for delta kinematics in a timely fashion, and this lends itself to inaccuracies. You DO NOT, however, need to go with a Duet board. There are plenty of other 32-bit boards available for much less money, but if you want the absolute best money can buy, a Duet is what you'd go with. For a good Delta board, you can use RADDS or the SKR 1.4 Turbo, as both are significantly cheaper.
it's the case for me, i don't buy a 3d printer to spend 150% of the price on upgrades, i want it out of the box usable at the cheap starting price.
AFAIK the Q5 already uses a 32 bit board
I have this printer and if developped the same issue when moved to a warmer place. Turns out the stepper VREF was set to high at 1.2V, tuning it down to 0.8V fixed the issue.
After moving the printer out of the airconditioned room, to the non-airconditioned room. The Y motor was starting to turn off and print spagetti, exactly like in this video. Turns out the stepper driver VREF was set at 1.2V instead of 0.8V. Was easy to fix with a voltmetter and a screw drivers. It’s now printing as expected.
Granted we should hold FLSUN to higher quality standard, however there is no need to replace the board to fix this issue.
Please ignore my last email request. I finally found the switch within the unit. The switch was very hard to see thru the various grids. The LCD now works, thanks for your time.
Richard
Great Video! your Printer mod videos are inspiring!
I bought 2 of these printers because of your prev video on the must have printer of 2020 con you send me links to the fixes and upgrade parts so I can get these printers situated?
I love your channel and all the printer topics you explore.
Thanks
I share any and all file I made in these videos with my $5 supporters on Patreon. I'm not trying to sell files. I'm just trying to make videos, and the support is instrumental to making that happen. www.patreon.com/designprototypetest
One can always subscribe, get what they want, and cancel. $5 is _a lot_ for anyone outside the first world.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I'm not trying to cause a problem here but I too bought one of these because you said it was a great printer. I didn't really think so after I got it. It had issues. The very same issues you are fixing here with what amounts to some serious upgrades.
So after spending a couple hundred dollars on your recommendation thinking I was staying within my budget by getting a machine that should work out of the box, now you are suggesting that I need to spend another couple hundred to make the machine work the way I thought it was supposed to to begin with. And I understand it is a great upgrade and is definitely going to be better than the stock machine with all the potential benefits.
But its already a little bit of a rub because if it was as good a printer as you told us to begin with when you recommended it to us I wouldn't need to upgrade it.
So now you want us to pay you another fee to get the information we need to finish it?
I understand you are saving us time and even sort of guaranteeing us a good result and certainly saving us some time by paying you, however, I would think after leading us down this path on thos particular project, would it not be helpful to us to provide these files at no charge?
I mean the only people that will probably be using the firmware build will be people who bought the machine based on your recommendation based on a desire to buy a machine that worked well off the shelf without having to spend additional money.
No one else is really going to need this firmware are they? Except the people who find themselves in this situation that you led us to?
@@christopherleveck6835 I have the FLSUN Q5 and I think that it's a fantastic printer for the price. When I moved my printer from an aircon room to a non-aircon room it started to get off the mark and print spaghetti. It appears that the stepper drivers are not properly tunes (voltage at 1.2V instead of 0.8). If you have this issue, that can be fixed with a tiny screwdriver and a voltmeter at no additional cost. I followed this methodology ruclips.net/video/uFhjVYROIH0/видео.html
Which western 3D print company is he talking about?
Prusa?
@@evropapagan5551 C ME CNC
Evropa Pagan Prusa doesn’t do Delta. It’s gotta be what Tony said.
OperatorNeptune it’s definitely prusa, he talked about it in a recent vid and he has has a specefic hate towards prusa for some reason
@@compatta1 "We manufacture our 3D Printers right here in the U.S.A" says on seemecnc website ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ - we know america is ran by a hair-made-out-of-piss-cotton-candy russian sheep atm, but don't think it reaches as far as 3D printing ;-)
Actually China believes in making thing to the requested price point.
You want to pay a crap price, china will make you a crap product.
You want to pay a decent price, China will make you a decent Product.
You want a pay for a gold plated 1st class product China will supply you with a Gold 1st class product.
The moral of this is; you get what you pay for.
Funny to see you here! Solid comment tough!
Please mention acceleration.
Acceleration is more important than print speed tbh. Both are very important. 100mm/s means nothing to me unless I know the Accel!
When a stepper motor gets too hot it turns off and the axis is free, then, in a couple of seconds, it turns back on and "grabs" again
Excellent presentation and the truth spoken. Thank you and keep up the great work! I don't care for Marlin and have 3 Duet 2 boards on my printers and don't care to change as they simply work. Love Duet Web Control 2 interface.
N00b here, he said that he'd burned up one of them. How and why does that happen?
Great video as ever
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Awesome video keep them up
Man I never thought of calibrating each tower. I learned something pretty interesting. By the way, you used to say I was a Russian Bot. :)
Stephen, you are a master troll who has just decided to be a certain way with me. I appreciate that. I'm thankful that you don't give me a hard time anymore. Granted there have been other comments left by people who I thought were trolling but they ended up being real as well but I still see an undercurrent of misinformation and the same type of comment left again and again by people who don't respond to responses. I want to have an earnest discussion on the topic. Instead, I mostly get attacked for bringing up the issues. It really feels like there is an organized force behind it. Do all of these guys just come to my channel from Prusa forum? Why do they all have the same disingenuous message? I started blocking users from my channel a few months back and things are much better now. I don't like doing that because I support freedom of speech, but there is no rule that I have to sit idle as these guys come and graffiti my walls with insults directed at me. Some of them are so underhanded about it too. I now ban people if I feel the intent of their message was to insult me instead of raise a legitimate issue. What do you think it is Stephen? Is it just the zeitgeist of trolling? Is is a bunch of teenagers from former USSR countries who can fake English in comments but who's culture doesn't quit jive with the U.S.? Or am I right, and is there a trolling leadership that starts the rumors (talking points) and all the other trolls follow suit?
Design Prototype Test I don’t know man. I just like your videos. I put my trolling days behind me. For me enjoying your content without the drama was more important to me.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Is Prusa the western 3D printer company you mention in the video? What do you think of your E3D motion system/tool changer printer, would you consider making a follow up video covering the issues found during longterm use?
Design Prototype Test I don’t think you should worry about freedom of speech at all, they are still free to go say the same thing in another place so you are not silencing anyone. Do whatever gives you less stress and lets you get to enjoy the community a little more.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Get him DPT! Bleep bloop....
7:05 - "I dont' like marlin... or klipper... the difficult way to configure that firmware"
32:46 - *editing things in the config.g exactly like in marlin or klipper
I really understand, why you like the Duet Boards. It's straight forward and simple to use and may be the best alternative for someone, who isn't so into "tech". But compared to the price of the printer, it's not worth the money IMHO. By just creating your own firmware, you can build a wonderful printer, which just works. Check this out: github.com/knutwurst/Marlin-2-0-x-Anycubic-Kossel-Linear-Plus
With this version of Marlin, you can configure almost everything regarding your delta with the inbuilt LCD screen. To tune the steps on X, Y and Z you don't need a computer at all. Same goes for calibration and the Z-Offset. - And it works with the old Atmega2560 Trigorilla board!
Actually for some one who makes good money spending more money just to save some time troubleshooting stuff might be worth it. There are some people who actually like their toys breaking because then they can fix it. Its all about what people enjoy.
If the whole idea for a Delta is speed, at the expense of size and accuracy and youre printing figurines then ok I get it. But I thought you are an industrial designer / engineer - it's puzzling why you love Delta so much! In my mind the holy Grail isnt a small printer that lacks precision, it's a low cost printer that produces functional accurate parts in a range of materials from TPU to Nylon, Petg and perhaps PC, that works consistently without constant upgrades and fixing, and hopefully the print volume isn't super small. What are your thoughts on that?
Is there such a beast ? I would love one.
So the question becomes, given your issues with the electronics in the Q5. Is it best to buy the QQ-S, the Q5 and change the electronics or something else as a newby to 3D printing.
I like the concept on the delta as an architecture.
Thanks for an awesome exploration of the Duet boards! I think you’re the only one really showing just how amazing these boards truly are, and that’s a shame. Would be nice to see their Smart Effector in action as well but it might be a lot of work to get them integrated with one of these ready made ones.
Making me want to do duet stuff now but I'm a marlin princess ahahha but seriously thanks for these vids learning a lot
i was a big fan of marlin, i loved my skr mini e33, but man, once you see how much easier it is to do literally everything on a duet, its hard to consider going back. Flashging firmware, changing settings, adding macros, everything can be done by web interface, not to mention the wifi already built into the duet2 wifi...
Why aren't the connections plug and play?
Brilliant!
@Design Prototype Test I know that I am way too late with my post, but anyway. You are wrong if you think they were stupid to not use a TMC2208 for the extruder. The TMC2208, if not used in UART mode, is known to just switch off during print if used with rapid changes of direction with full power. And exactly that happens if used for the extruder. The XYZ axes don't have this problem, because they slowly decelerate and accelerate on direction changes. On the BBT SKR 1.3/1.4 boards the drivers are typically used in UART mode, so no problem again.
Additionally there is no need for using the Duet boards to get the Reprap web interface you prefere. The Reprap firmware runs just fine on the much cheaper already mentioned SKR boards.
This UART could explain why the printer just stopped printing correctly in the previous video.
Hahahaha, you should do a video knocking an apple product, you have no idea what kinda kool aid trolls there are out there until you get apple fans in the mix. I ordered a MK3 based on the YT 3D community, I hope it works out and if it doesn't bite me. It will be my 3rd printer (1st one from the US, one from china) and they both are not printers that just work. I was mostly at a loss to find a printer that is just going to work, and was willing to scrape together MK3 money but not ultimaker prices. My Name is Erik and I live in West Michigan. Good videos btw.
You are a true rockstar. I am just in awe of your insight and understanding of the 3D printers ins and outs, but I can't help wondering if you are missing out on an opportunity to build quality printers yourself? Here is my point:
We are using 3D printed hinges, latches, etc for our production of 'something else'. We started out with a single ender-3 due to cost reasons, and are now do hundreds of ABS parts per job using multiple ender-3's in parallel. We tried a bigger and more expensive printer, but it turns out - as you know - that throwing more money at it does not guarantee a better product or better reliability. It only guarantees that you spent more money.
If you saw our printers, you wouldn't believe it. They get a new layer of ABS juice and manual level before every print, we print three parts at each printer, one at a time in diagonal to not lose a full batch if it goes haywire. We barely clean up between the runs, and we have craters where the parts are located but it doesnt matter: We are not in the business of making beautiful useless cubes like CHEP, we are in the business of getting stuff out the door.
So to my point: unless you have all the time in the world, reliability is king. We are running 6 ender-3 parallel right now because we need to have a stream of parts coming out, and I know _at_least_ one of the printers is going to break down during the peak manufacturing period. And, when it does, I take a deep hard look at it and consider whether I want to spend time fixing it or just buy a new ender-3 instead.
If you know how to piecemeal a reliable printer together from a best-in-class chassis from one supplier, and good electronics from another supplier and then software tuned by you to run for thousands of hours: That's a lot of value right there. If you can set up a fast, ultra-reliable printer at $$, you are not competing against fancy marketed printers costing the same $$: you are competing against workhorse printers like Lulzbot costing $$$$.
Build your best-practices delta printer, and let it run for 1000 hours. Is it is still doing OK after that? *You have a winner*
All the best, Chris
Great message Chris. Would you send me an email. I would love to have a chat with you. My email can be found in the about tab of my channel: ruclips.net/user/georgeoftjabout
Nice videos! I've got an Anycubic Predator, and I'm having problems with random layer shifts that kill all my big prints. I've pretty much eliminated mechanical issues, and I suspect (like you) the cause is the electronics, the stepper motors, or both. Seriously considering Duet2 upgrade + smart effector.
Awesome video! I just ordered one for my first 3D printer. I wanted a Sapphire S after watching your great upgrade videos, but they’re only making the pro now, which has lots of bad design choices. I like the idea of the bed not moving horizontally and not having a huge footprint. Thanks so much for your excellent videos. You inspired me to give this hobby a try!
Does anyone know what western company he's talking about? I have a few guesses but not entirely sure
Trojank Great question, I was about to post the exact same one.
I thought maybe Prusa but they are Czech and not German I think. Although those two could be easily mistaken since they are fairly close to each other.
If it’s in relation to the stepper drivers it’s probably Watterott. Sites like E3d lists some of their drivers as “genuine watterott drivers”
Watterott was founded in March 2008 by Stephan Watterott in Hausen, Germany. They offer their own micro controller boards and special hard-to-find development components.
If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Great stuff. 🎯
Thank you so much for your video.
I purchased the flsun Q5 following your previous video. It runs very well for the past 2 weeks.
I must add that i did pledged to the Zatsit 3D printer kickstarter project. The project has not delivered and purchased the Q5 to have a delta to test.
In the hope of the Zatsit project success, I purchased a Duet WIFI.
You gave me (us, other unlucky Zatsit project supporters) a great guide to built a proper delta printer. Thank you so much!
thank you for your hard work, advice, and your honesty!
i'm new to 3d printers, but good at spotting legit people. this guy knows his craft.
@Design Prototype Test Great informative video and now making me think about getting the FLsun and Duet. How reliable and accurate over time is the arms roller wheels on the rails, on that model? Are linear rails always better?
Good vídeo 😁 I making a ghetto Delta hehehe and your video motivate me to continue I already have a Delta and I really like the concept... But my only complain about Delta is the small build area... Hehe...
Replacing the stock fan with a Noctua 40x10 for cooling the hotend won't help, as these do not have the CFM to properly cool the heatsink. They are quiet for a reason ;) I've used them on various printers, and all fail in that regard, i.e.. heat creep eventually. A Noctua 40x20, you may just get away with?, but these Noctua's do not push the required amount of air to properly cool the hotend. A big mistake I see many making.
Just a heads up, your patreon link isn't a link right now.
it is now
I like this type of live stream premier. Stayed on track. No interruption and you can focus on chat. Perfect job keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
I'm working on upgrading my first ever printer. It's so old that the mainboard is an Arduino Mega.
Set your pwn limit in the duet software to 125 and you don't need to do that buck converter thing. The whole point of pwm is you're simulating voltages using the integral approach
What a great idea, but I don't think it works like that. PWM basically amounts to a switch on and off very rapidly. Every time the switch is turned on you are still feeding 24v to the fan. Even if your PWM signal is set to half (128), and your fan seems to be spinning at the correct RPM, it still means that the fan is exposed to 24v of current for 30 seconds of every minute. While the fans may survive this, if the fan circuitry wasn't designed to handle 24v current you run a serious risk of burning out your fans, and they always fail at the most critical time: Murphy's Law.
@@DesignPrototypeTest so, yes, that is a simplified way to explain pwm, it isn't the same as banging the fan on with 24v for 30 total seconds in a row and off for 30 seconds. This is because a fan is a motor which is an inductor which is trying to preserve current at the expense of voltage. The coil resistance is what sets the current through the fan, controlling the power it sees. Because you are effectively giving it an a/c power source, you don't see the voltage on the fan the same as 24v. You need to integrate over the time constant to see what the effective voltage is, which is 12v. The inductor and resistor don't care about seeing 24v for a millisecond, they care about the heat generated from the 24v for a constant supply. Because we pulse the voltage, the power delivered to the fan is effectively as though it's given a 12v source.
Source: am engineer
I've also done this to dozens of cheap one dollar 12v fans and none have failed.
There's still some misinformation out there. We clarify that on a daily basis in the "FLSUN QQ, QQ-S, and Q5 3D Printer Owners" Facebook group.
Please join us at facebook.com/groups/120961628750040/ to form a more educated opinion on FLSUN printers. :)
Have a nice day and stay safe!
3:24 labor and materials mostly, sometimes cheaper design. Chinese companies do make some good stuff if you actually pay for good stuff and know who to buy from just like anywhere else.
I have a flsun q q s I was planning on installing duet 2 board. Do I need just the board or do I need the thermistor board as well? It pretty much looks identical to Q5 just different board from Factory. Would you be kind enough to send me wiring diagram or perhaps help me if I run into a problem? I'm pretty new at this so but I am good with soldering and small electronic projects thank you for all your videos
I loved that video so much that i bought that printer and also same Duet 2 wifi board. I placed the board on same place as you did. And got duet wifi connected to my wifi router as it gave me address in YAT BUT the thing is as Duet Web Control open up in browser, i can`t get it connected. It`s like dead web page. There is something i need to do but i dont know what?
stay tuned for teaching techs take on this video
Your comment is rather ambiguous. Are you suggesting TT will copy me because you agree with my past video, or are you attempting to mock me?
@@DesignPrototypeTest implying he will copy you
just keep producing original content. his channel has turned into more of a commercial channel for various products and lacks any personality if that makes sense.
I see the Prusa hate boner is still raging. That aside have you considered trying this with an SKR board instead? The firmware would take more setup compared to the duet interface but I think it might be a interesting alternative for those looking to keep the price down/not willing to spend more on the board than the printer and it would certainly put it more in the Prusa mini ball park (cause, well... it would be a shame if it had alternative right?).
i love my qq-s pro printers but have always wanted to upgrade the control boards to something better but ive never done it an both of my machines are over 2 yrs old an still working so maybe i got lucky but ive thought about picking another one up that is a parts only printer from ebay an just use it to build from, but im not sure what control board to go with an right now is probably not the best time to try to buy a control board. id really like to try klipper but the raspberry pi boards are stupid expensive now compared to what they used to be an i only have one on hand right now an id rather keep using it the way i am now with octoprint and retro pie gaming console, just swapping sd cards depending on if im wanting to use octo print over using it for klipper unless i can get my hands on another pi decently priced.
One upgrade you can do on a cheap model is a thing that may not be obvious for most but the arms does not actually have to have same x/y spot connection, ie you can use a square and offset bolts as the delta arm lenght is whats important, not how you transfer the movement. What does this mean? You can use whatever material and bearings as long as you calibrate it, but you do not have to use flimsy balljoints or magnets, just drill two holes through a square and offset them to not collide and bolt it tight to the arms, and it will work much more rigid.
You should put a link to the JST crimpers in the description. You kept telling us how great they are, but no way to purchase them.
my brother in law has an FLsun so i hope it doesn't fail on him like that... there's no way he knows how to change the control board and program all that!!! 3d printing is not beginner friendly at all!!
You know Klipper doesn't require any base code modification. It is config file based..Not Configuration.h or anything like that. Flat formatted text files. It's light years easier to deal with than Marlin.
Allow me to respond in kind, skipping over the nitty gritty as you have done: Reprap firmware doesn't require any technical knowledge. It's web-browser based. All you need to do to set it up is click on some buttons on a website. No text editing necessary. It's light years easier to deal with than Klipper.
Klipper is very similar honestly. Yes you can ssh into the raspberry pi and edit the config files but you can also edit it from octoprint with the OctoKlipper plugin. It's very similar to editing the config.g file for Duet. There is even a DWC2 for Klipper. I'm not saying Duets aren't great, as is RepRap. The Duets boards are amazing and super well made. But I think you are giving Klipper short shrift.
Fair enough. I may give Klipper a chance in a future video.
Why is it you think your Ender3 can't print at 100mm/s ? Mine is mostly stock and can print fine at 120mm/s (and that's just the fastest I've tested it). Maybe you need to tighten belts, pulleys, etc? Definitely works fine for shapes like the square you printed on the delta in the opening of this video - I was printing faceshield headbands using mine at those speeds. Finer exotic shapes could be an issue, but not what I printed, and definitely not that square item you were printing, which is very similar.
Ghosting/rippling is the problem. This Delta will make prints at 100mm/s which rival the quality from your Ender 3 printed at 40mm/s.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I don't see much rippling on my prints at higher speeds. Maybe you can show some of what you have been seeing so I can compare. Best wishes.
This explains all of the weird comments negative towards Ukraine 2:02
Could you include a link to the macros you made or are you only offering them to your patreon supporters?
So if I was to buy a delta today to upgrade from and try to get close to engineer quality prints. Where should I start? I see the Little Monster and Predator are no longer available.
>engineer quality prints
Don't buy a delta if this is your goal.
@@DesignPrototypeTest makes sense i honestly really just want a delta because it looks so cool while printing. I also want to use it as a upgrade platform and drop in a Duet and maybe add linear rails. If those were my goals where do you suggest starting. I see Tevo rebranded as Homers and has Little Monsters for sale via the website but I've seen some people expressing frustration ordering from there.
Thank you, Your videos really make me want to buy a 3D printer.. Let's see, maybe after this lockdown.
I come in here and see DPT bragging on his FLSun, which I'm pretty certain is Chinese for "Voldemort", and I wondered what parallel universe I had slipped into? Then @2:50 my sense of reality was restored. Whew! :)
You had me laughing out loud @14:00 with your hack. :) So I'm not the only one with unopened bags of connectors from Duet?
Curious as to how you blew up your Duet, I haven't managed that as of yet. Nice job on the Duet mount that you designed for your printer.
I blew up my Duet by being over confident in the idiot-proof-ness of their designing. I was so uncarefull that I was working on the board while it was powered on and sitting on top of a bare Aluminum power supply case. That still didn't kill it. What did it in was when I allowed the dangling Buck Converter to also touch the case. I don't know if it just directly connected the 24v power directly to the ground rail through the Buck Converter or if it shorted out through some other part of the Duet Board. At any rate, it was very, very careless on my part.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I've got no room to talk, I've been known to kill lesser devices doing just that. And I was thinking that what your buck converter really wanted was a piece of shrink tubing over the board. I can see it popping off of its tape one day and ruining yours.
I use a drop-in replacement for 7805 regulators from EZSBC.com on my old retro computers. They work perfectly. They also make a 12 volt version: www.ezsbc.com/index.php/products/psu3-12.html#.XqraJKhKiUk
I do have to say that you've done a great job getting your deltas tuned up. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it. My Rostock would print out a 100mm x 10mm "L" with a leg width of 9.8mm at one end, and 10.2mm at the other. And that was with tower calibration. Getting engineered parts to fit was a challenge.
@DesignPrototypeTest I read below that you blew up your Duet. While I'm not a n00b -- I've been experimenting with a friend's Ender 3 Pro for the past few months -- I'm also looking for a printer that "just works". I would love to tinker; I just don't have the time to tinker. I want to be able to print models and things that help around the home -- like, say, this glove dryer www.thingiverse.com/thing:1003576 -- and I don't want to have to tinker with the printer to get it to work. Would the FLSUN Q5 or QQ-S PRO -- modded with the Duet or factory -- fit that concept?
Get the Mingda D2 for the lowest cost, works well out of the box printer that doesn't *need* to be upgraded. The Q5 needs a Duet board. I burned one of my Duet boards up with stupidity. I was by connecting a Buck converter to take 24v directly from the PS and drop it down to 12v so I could run a fan. I set the board (while it was powered on) on top of the power supply with the metal case. Then I accidentally touched the 24V+ wire from the Buck converter solder point to the PS case and the short circuit fried the 5v rail on the Duet. I've done all sorts of other stupid things to the Duet boards but this is the only thing that managed to kill one. They've built in all sorts of idiot proofing into their product. It's very good.
This is awesome work. Could this be done to a TIKO printer? It was a delta that launched on kickstarter and went belly up. It worked once and then could no longer connect to it. I would have to add the hot bed but otherwise it looks very similar.
A Duet control board will work on pretty much any 3D printer. People have even retrofit them into old Stratasys machines.
Duet 3d all day. also, the wiring looms for these chinese printers are always crap. My TLM needed all new motor wires and sensor wires as the pretend copper wire supplied orignally was like hair and not crimped properly into the jst pins.
should I really buy so much and redo so much. just so it can run ??? i'm just a normal user. not an engineer or professor. wanted to buy this 3D printer. now i don't :-(
These printers are fine. Dont be afraid dude. Deltas are a bit more work but they're way cooler. check the reviews across most websites and youll see that its not normally prone to failures of this magnitude. If youre looking for problem free and cheap, you should look at an ender 3v2
cuthulu is indeed watching, btw ;-)
2:46 what company? Probably just going to build my own if I can't trust others to do it well.
Orange printer. Toxic fanbase which calls themselves "the community." In 2024 if you want to build make an LDO motors kit Voron.
Common culprit for axis shutting down or loosing steps is motor driver overheating. Driver boards coming out of China are not always properly set up, and can drive motors with maximum current. If that's the case, you simply measure the Vref voltage on all three drivers and set it accordingly to your motor requirements. You can also set all three to the smallest value you measure as a quick and dirty fix.
A good bit of general knowledge, however, I had a look at the firmware build after I removed the original control board from the printer. The motor currents were set to a reasonable level. Also, I got 2 whole days of printing from the thing before it started to malfunction like that. It's possible that the Stepper drivers were just extra sensitive to the heat, and maybe my room was like 10° warmer when they started to fail. Like I said in the video, It wasn't worth the time to try and diagnose the problem. Even if I fixed it, that would likely not have been the only issue with that electronics package.
@@DesignPrototypeTest As far as I know, motor current is set by a potentiometer on the driver board itself, not in firmware - you actually need a multimeter and a small screwdriver to check and set it. Some Trinamic drivers have the option to control the current via software, but I don't think your board uses that option. Duet is certainly a nice solution if you can simply throw money at the problem but adding it to this rig pushes the total price up to almost double. I'm not saying you are wrong to go for Duet, but dismissing the MKS board out of gate is meh... for what it costs it actually seems to be a very nice board once you flash it to Marlin.
Anybody buying machines from China via eBay, GearBest, Banggood and AliExpress has to realize they are more often tinkering project kits then actual plug&play products. Some assembly is always in the mix and more often then not some piece needs to be redesigned to work properly. Out of the box they'll probably work but just barely. Customer support is rarely useful or even available and quality control is a joke. The thing is, you get what you pay for... same machine made in China but to a western QC level would cost twice or trice as much.
How much does this printer cost?
Is this still viable in 2024? Or there might be better options nowadays?
If you want to make a 3D printer for the sake of making a 3D printer this is a very good project. If you want to get a 3D printer to make other things just get a Bambu Lab and be done with it. It will work reliably and print extremely quickly every time with fantastic part accuracy for engineered parts.
Put 2 fans in series next time
you can do it cheaper with Duet Maestro because Duet 2 is an overkill. Delta does not need 2A steppers, huge expansion capability. Also having cheap WiFi module enclosed in aluminum cage with PSU EM also does not work well. But yeah, Duet or die! :D
Yes, you are correct. The Maestro would also work great to run this printer. Unless you are unable to keep your printer constantly plugged into your internet router via Cat5 cable. In which case the Duet2 WiFi is the clear choice.
I addressed your criticism about blocking wifi signals inside of a metal enclosure when I referenced Faraday cages at the 8:58 mark, and the final design has the antenna protruding out the front of the printer ensuring great reception of WiFi signals.
agree about the cat5 cable, but we could argue about the price of one cheap router that works as repeater to make a daisy of printers and keep "the field" of printers "wireless" if one has more than one... But we shall not do that ;)
i am a diehard Duet fan, but i am going to swap all my wifi modules with ESP-07S and external antenna. Tip tip for a new video ;)
if u mess with the stepps per mm after the bed probing and z height adjustment you will have to do it again no?
I lololed when you stuck that sticker on it and it showed that the Chinese one was on crooked. But that's not really surprising lol!
Delta mechanism best idea on my life
I am NOT s troll, GRRRRR. I am NOT a robot, BLEEP BLOOOP.
Oh, OK, I MIGHT be a Jamaican Robot Troll, BLEEP GRRRR BLOOOP, BROTHER MAN, don't buy me LUV, Mon.
Any updates on this for 2022?
what company are you talking about?
I"m not naming names., but which 3D printer company has fanboys?
@@DesignPrototypeTest All of them.
Great video. Gave me some idea's on how to try and increase the accuracy on my delta's. Got to love the DUET. Any reason you are not using a config-override.g created by using M500 after calibration?
Have you tried adjusting the rod length instead of using the M579 for scaling? I think both have the same effect but not sure which is better or worse than the other.
Anyone running in a successful home-built Delta will know the struggle is real...
For real, though. :)
Yeah. Been there, not going back.
Curious, do you regret building one?
I've got a ender 5, decently modified but I'm torn between eventually building my own, either corexy, or delta.
175 dollar control board!
Omg
Absolutely fascinating.
Those Iwiss crimpers aren't even that pricey I paid like 18 bucks for mine about a year ago. They work fantastic, not a single failed crimp when I did my duet board, though I really wish duet just used the more common JST-XHP connectors that I've seen used on pretty much every other printer, though there were quite a few things that had to be wired differently so I guess there is some logic behind it, don't want people just thinking it's plug and play. Got my Anycubic Predator up and running with a Duet 2 wifi today, doing my first test print as I write this. It is a night and day difference on the amount of noise this thing makes, it's fantastic. So far no real issues that I had to get help with.
Finally got my QQ-S pro printing with Duet3d board and reprap 3.3.3b2 ! yayy.. it wasnt exactly straight forward like this project, but I got it done.. more mods coming, raspberry with webcam control and LED's coming too :) webcam most important so I can monitor the print from my phone.
How did you get the XYZ limit switches to work with this board?
Super easy. Just ignore the center pin. Connect to the outside two pins on the connector of the Duet board. The rest is done in the firmware build.
Well there are other makerbase boards that are 32 bit and far better then the robin still marlin but also NOT 175 BUCKS!
Still made in China by the lowest bidder. You know they cut corners, the only question is if one of those hidden corners that they cut will lead to problems that take you hours to fix. If you can even fix them at all. Let's say the board you are talking about costs $50. That means the Duet only costs $125 more. On two occasions, I've spent 40 hours digging into the firmware and hardware on these Chinese boards trying to chase down the problem only to find it can't be remedied by me. At $12 minimum wage that was about $500 worth of time. Once I had done those projects I never used that specific knowledge again. I would have been much better off just spending the $125 more for the Duet. Save your money until you have enough to buy the Duet. Unless you like the struggle with Chinese electronics, which is a hobby in and of itself.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I have 5 of them 3 that are years old and never given me a single glitch. But they are not the low ball robins either. I get your point..Just cant say I see 4 times the value in duet boards
Rebooting and guessing to calibrate a delta? Marlin has a way better and user friendlier calibration procedure here. I would a also say updating the existing board is faster than replacing it, but yes, that LCD is scrap. You should really give marlin a shot, I've got the impression your view on what marlin is well outdated. You could make a really fun video of it when does not turn out well, (you know, clickbait palmface tumbnail), while I would like to see you embrace marlin as well.
Yes, chinese printers are never just right. Hope some seller stops making complete printers one day, would love to be able to click the option "without electronics" or "without hotend and extruder", while there is some universal mounting gear.
Thanks for the quick reply. There is a grid over the power unit which has a label covering any type of switch. So I can not see anything to move left or right. Would the wrong voltage cause the LCD screen not turn on? Could you possibly text or email me photo of your Q5 showing the location and position of the switch? Would I need to pull the power unit to get assess to the switch? I have double checked all the wire connections and they are correct.
Thanks for your time
Richard
can you send the link for the buck converter...thanks
Just posted in the description. Thanks for catching that. :)
I watched your video the other day about the Delta that you were using I think it’s the five well I accidentally bought the QQS and I’ll tell you I am freaking blown away. Put it together in 20 minutes did the test prints with the included filament and it is insane both watching how fast it goes and how tight the resolution is on the parts if this is the future of Delta printing I am going to be getting Away from my gantry style. I bought it because of you and I am so happy with the purchase! Thank you! I have not watched this video yet but I am going to watch it now, keep up the great work!
Delta printers are not left/right/front back< only Z axis required x 3, no X,Y,Z as its up n down only per corners
It doesn't look like you are "saving your time" by not diagnosing the problem first
A while ago I commented on one of your videos and asked about upgrading my Printrbot Simple Metal with a Duet board... then somebody commented saying I should get a Prusa. I guess that guy was with a Russian troll farm :-) In any case, I've successfully upgraded the printer with a Duet Maestro (and done a bunch of other things), and am happy to report that it went well and the printer is almost completely silent now. I did have to build a 'throne' for it because the Duet wouldn't fit in the small body of the printer, but hey that's fine, it needed more stability anyway.
Just realized I could edit my post, so done! I do have a question. I'm thinking of building a printer from scratch on a budget. Thinking about the Goliath, or maybe the Piper2. I need something that I can print higher temp filaments in and also enclose so that I can vent outside if needed. Any thoughts, is EMT a waste of time and not much money. I'd really rather not invest in a lot of extrusion. Even thought about doing a core XY conversion on the S5, but haven't seen much in searches. thanks, Ken
Have you ever noticed how bigoted you are toward Chinese and Russians ? Every video of yours I've seen has something. Put your focus elsewhere, and stop spreading hate. If it's a superiority thing, you are not.
To quote the princess bride "You keep using that word, I do not think it means what you think it means." You sound like a Wumao. If I criticize you, does that make me a sexist? Why does criticizing a large and diverse country make me a biggot?
@@DesignPrototypeTest Your consistent presentation of your obstinate opinion of people from a particular culture, is a clear indication that you are in fact a bigot. I wouldn't go so far to call you an ignorant racist, but others might. Please stop spreading hate, and I would advise not using quotes where they have no place.
am i still able to get the config file?
Yes. I still share such things with my patreon supporters
I do tend to agree with your perspective that when you/we follow what people are saying about Chinese products, it's bots that are doing it and not really humans, only trying to give good feedback and trying to increase sales on the products, but what about the several videos that exist here on youtube with different specialists on 3d printers, unboxing and giving their first impressions and first prints, and they all tend to say that it's a very good beginners printer (FLSUN Q5 for example), easy to assemble, very reliable and with very good quality for the money? ... are they also bots?
... also, and from your upgrade, is it recommendable that you place the new board on top of an aluminum case, getting the possibility to have a short circuit due to the solderings underneath the board?... just wondering!!! (you might have predicted and protected it, but it's not a very good example, and not even your word of advice was said about that).
lol, just bought a flsun delta because of your review.. now no?
i'm seriously looking at the FLSUN QQ-S Pro, but unsure if you are saying dont unless you are thinking about putting in a $200 brain? Or should i assume that a pro means they sneakily ironed out all the crap from the QQS?
The QQS has a different motion system using 8mm rods. These are too thing and will flex because they are quite long. Not only should you replace the control board with a $175 Duet, it will be a convoluted and expensive task to replace those rods with thicker ones. Best to stick with the Q5. If you need larger prints, and really want a Delta, see if you can find an Anycubic Predator for sale anywhere. Otherwise, your best bet is to just stick with the tried and true Creality CR-10S: ruclips.net/video/mw5TXlSzQYI/видео.html
Design Prototype Test - completely agree! Don’t get the QQ-S Pro unless you intend to completely re-work the frame (and gantry) and upgrade the board. If Prusa did Deltas, the QQ-S would be it!
I have one - but used as a test bed for a much larger project. What you say about the boards is true... they are garbage for deltas. They are ARM Cortex M3 running at 32bit but only run at 74mhz with 64kb SRAM. The Duet is ARM Cortex M4 32bit running at 120 MHz 512kbSRAM!! Allot my headway in the ram.
My QQ-S pro can’t interpolate a circle without jerking. Leaving a blob extra plastic. Movements have to be smooth! And u need extra power to do that with deltas
I bought one soon after my comment and been quite happy with what it's doing. Guess it's like all things that are in this entry level area, that it's a roll of the dice. My ender 3 had problems recently and I'm waiting on a direct drive unit and then I'll upgrade the brain, springs etc, in the meantime I've been giving the QQSPRO a hard time and it's still handling it
3rutu5 - it’s good that you are getting good results from it. I found initially that if I didn’t use the slicer that came with the printer, I got very bad prints. Checking the GCode I found the issue and now can slice with the most upto date cura.
I still enjoy playing with it - the learning is the best part anyway!
What probe is that? I'm considering rebuilding an older delta with a Duet board but I need a probe.
I just received my Delta Q5 and the voltage appears to need to be set at (default)220V. I see no external switch to make the change to 120V. Do you know how I might go about resetting the voltage to 120V? I have no read out on the LCD screen although there is power to the unit. Thanks for a reply. Richard
There is a special switch inside the power supply. It doesn't have a protruding nub, just a flat slot for sliding the switch back and forth. You stick a flat head screw driver through the holes in the case and push the switch the other direction from where it is currently set.