The Flsun Q5 is Fantastic so long as you don't print at slow speeds.
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- UPDATE: Do not buy; this printer unless you plan to upgrade the electronics. Upon further experimentation after this video was published I could no longer get a successful print to happen at all. This includes all the prints you see which previously printed quite successfully in this video. The electronics and/or firmware is the Achilles heel of this printer and will probably fail on your just as mine has failed on me. NOT TO WORRY! In the next video I showed how to fix all the problems and make an even more functional/quiet printer: • How to Build the Best ...
Flsun has really made a winner with their new Delta style 3D printer - the Q5. If you are thinking about an Ender 3 Pro, get this one instead!
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I politely disagree with your assessment. While the hardware may be good value, and the print quality "out of the box" looks decent, a beginner needs more than just a cheap printer. Reliability and serviceability are also important. I like your efforts to assess value for money, but I don't agree with your conclusions.
The kinds of problems you run into when calibrating and troubleshooting axis issues are significantly more complex on a Delta than for cartesian printers. Marlin firmware for ARM is still fresh out of the gate, and I don't think I would recommend it for mass adoption yet. Plus the FLSun comes with proprietary firmware which does nothing for encouraging people to get into the full 3D printer open source ecosystem. Looks like MKS Robin board, so it is Marlin based firmware ala GPL violations... did you have a chance to check via USB to a computer?
Additionally, the use of the MKS TFT28 touch module is a huge tragedy. That module is terribly unreliable, and a source of much frustration for the thousands of people who have them on their JGAurora A5 printers - so much so, that JGAurora made the A5S printer and ditched that MKS module for their own home made one. What you saw was "buffer overrun" was actually the TFT28 module talking to the main motherboard via serial, and interrupting it.
The long bowden tube is also a downside that I did not see you mention. Also, did you test for thermal safety systems?
It probably sounds like I have a vendetta against delta printers.... I lost many many hours to a battle with a Geeetech G2S. This printer looks MILES better than that one, but I remember that my experience with my first delta was like being a 3D noob all over again. I'm sure many things have improved since then, but things like documentation and support would also have been good things to mention if you think this printer is suited for beginners. While fast print speeds are great, they can also "mask" or cluster together with other issues - like you pointed out with the under extrusion at high speed printing...
@@SamPinchesMakerShop Vendetta? No. Just sharing your experiences. High value, much appreciated comment. 👍
u could always flash firmware on that board, when he said “just like the artillery sidewinder x1, the firmware is locked down” i knew he’s lying, i’ve flashed marlin 2.0 on my sidewinder, even the tft’s firmware could be flashed, so idk what is he trying to say here
There is a difference between Lying and not doing all of the research. I made that outro monologue at the very end when i was just trying to get this video completed. I should have looked into the hacker community and seen if anyone has been able to break into that electronics package. One thing is certain: The manufacturer is not advertising it as a feature or helping us to customize our firmware. Their intent is to make it a black box, so that's what I was talking about.
@@SamPinchesMakerShop I also had a G2S (pro) and it took many hours of calibration and setting up, but I had way more problems with a bigger core XY printer. The G2S isn't as refined and easy to setup as printers nowadays, but once the setup is done printing was nice and quick with a couple of mods. Donated it to a cousin since I moved to a bigger delta. Def a pet peeve was the acrylic parts.
The quality of your videos has improved allot
Kids today. In 1985 the state of the art was the 32-bit Motorola 68020.
Just ordered a QQS-Pro and I'm pumped.
printer: pls remove leveling switch module before move Z0
this guy: No, I don't think I will
I agree. The review seems to trash the printer for mistakes he was making. Setting the Z shift manually misses out the Z plane calibration which sets the z axis to perpendicular. Not impressed.
Those "aesthetic covers" you removed are actually safety covers to make sure nothing gets caught in the wheels.
oof
I'm a fellow early greying genx 3d print enthusiast who had a son later in life, and even though I am on team cardigan and therefore your natural enemy, you earned my sub.
:)
Mine has worked pretty well right out of the box. its my first printer and has not failed me at all.
If I am not mistaken, you only have to run the bed leveling once, so it doesn't really matter how long it takes because you don't have to do it before every print. Doesn't matter how fast it moves if it is faster than the material can be laid down it is fast enough.
yeah right the bed leveling goes off on these things all the time I SWEAR
I purchased a FLSUN Q5 several weeks ago. I've printed at high and slow speeds, with nearly no failures. The only fails occurred because of wood filament printing too fast at the wrong temperatures. Other than that, every filament and every speed has yielded excellent results. I've tweaked to acceleration to reduce wobble and related print artifacts. I generally print at 50 to 75. I've done 100, but prefer the lower speeds for the various specialty filaments that I use.
In the couple of weeks since I've begun 3d printing, I realized I really just want a printer that works, not a printer that looks the part and works sometimes, and works mostly if you know how to adjust it well, and it works quite a bit better after the first 25 upgrades and then after 50 upgrades it is just excellent. It appears the 3d printing community is always surprised when a machine is good "out of the box". That should be the norm. I want to design and print. Not sweat making printers work the way they were supposed to.
Get a Prusa Mk3S+. Its not my first printer but it prints most of the time. Unlike my other printers
Nice save snatching off that bed level sensor. I rammed mine into the bed of my Anycubic mini Kossel more than once!
I appreciate you adding your video and thoughts to the prior catalog on this printer. It's nice to get multiple perspectives. Been tempted but I think I'm holding out for larger than 200mm sq bed and enclosure. Liked.
Delta frames are only more expensive because of the smaller demand. There BOM list is way shorter and, apart from the effector, everything comes in multiples of 3. They don't only print more rapidly because of the effector weight, plenty of credit has to be given to the 3 motors sharing the work load all the time. Which is why it's also faster then e.g. a bowden core xy.
Same behavior for the QQ. If you change something during the job the buffer stop for a wile. Inaccettabile, you can’t edit the print without affect the model.
Looks like a good companion for my Ender 3 pro. Maybe when I inevitably break a part on one I can use the other. I’d love to see you try with octoprint. I have octoprint and SKR 1.3 set up. I’ve heard you can host more than one printer on a single pi. I think marlin isn’t too big of a deal to learn. I have yet to try duet boards but I think it’s helpful to understand what goes on in the firmware. Btw 99% of the changes are uncommenting lines. Love the coverage though. Sorry for the criticism.
the a4988 is a bit of a cheap out but putting tmc driver on the extruder is usually not worth the trouble any 1/32 stepper driver is usually the same so a DRV8825 or the LP1798 or w/e you have besides the a4988 is going to perform nearly the same with out some of the problems of TMC on Extruder.
In your experience, do those other drivers run as quietly? Don't you need the Trinamic to eliminated the noise from the stepper motor having to spin so rapidly to run the geared extruder during retraction moves?
@@DesignPrototypeTest the lv8729 and the other 128 microstepping drivers for sure but I honestly don't notice the noise from extruder much anyways unless it's grinding. Sometimes with low impedance steppers the timing of drv8825 make them scream but you have other problems when that's happening like low torque and jitter.
At least, your board has swappable drivers. I have a QQ-S PRO which was pretty noisy unfortunately my board had integrated A4988 drivers. So, just like most FLSUN owners I replaced my stock board to a BTT SKR 1.3 board and running Marlin on it and now I'm happy with it!
The printer comes with cable ties so you don’t have to trim the filament tube
Lost on this guy. He seems too focused on nit picking the weirdest little issues such as fan operation / noise.
What about warp or distortion on prints which extend to areas of the bed nearest the circumference? It doesn't look like you printed anything bigger than 5cm across in your tests. Is this printer only excellent for printing miniatures and vases? Please take it further in a followup video - it seems like this is only 2020's Ender3 replacement assuming we only print small objects, and not use the full build bed. Maybe print some face shield headbands - those generally take up most of the bed on my Ender3, assuming they fit on this round bed. Try thingiverse 4251314. Best wishes.
After reading your comment, I made a 150mm long test print. at that length across the board the part is dimensionaly accurate. My caliper only measures 150mm, so I'm not able to test for accuracy in parts longer than that.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Thank you - that is very interesting! Maybe the newer 32-bit boards have licked this now! Best wishes.
I had an 2016 model FLSUN Kossel. It was an exercise in frustration from the moment I had it together. The build plate is only 200mm, and it was warped. The V5 clone hot end was not assembled properly and oozed immediately and that took me a week to figure out after finally discovering the correct terminology and then going to E3D's site for instructions. Almost no one has a delta so very often finding someone that can help you configure it is often difficult. Upgrading it to the MKS SBASE 32 bit board only made things worse as I ended up with a ridiculously weird bug where I could not get a single fan to turn on and ended up running the hot end fan off a spare 12v connector off my PC power supply. It sucked out all the joy out of this hobby. I currently have it stripped all the way down and am using the parts to make a CR10 clone. It's also getting an SKR 1.3. It was either that or take a sledgehammer to it.
If I were going to buy any printer, it would be the CR10 500x500.
I had the "Flsun I3c plus" and it was a dumpster fire. As a brand they don't have a great track record so far. If this printer is an indication they are turning the corner.
Large beds moving back and forth in the Y axis are exactly the problem I was talking about in the intro. Get a CoreXY for this size of bed.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I was thinking of building either a Hypercube or MPCNC with extra length Z height once I get done with the 310x310. I need something that can handle 2ft nylon prints with support material.
would love to see a follow up vid on this printer once youve got it set up how you like and modified
I got an anycubic Predator which is a delta - its a monster 370 mm diameter 455 Z and sofar it works great and I got it for 336
I would love to get one of those but they are OoS everywhere
@@Turbo187KillerB They are out cause they were shut down. My info is they are reworking their product line. The latest reworked model is the MegaX and the predator and chiron are next
@@Turbo187KillerB I'm worried too, sadly I wasn't quick enough on one locally for $350. Hopefully they do release more Predators
@@Turbo187KillerB "hunting for a Predator" lol
Jason Hixon
I am in the same situation. I didn’t learn about it until a few weeks after it was sold out. But, I really like the smaller footprint and higher speed of delta printers. They also seem easier to enclose, and the hardware seems simpler to service, albeit that the software is a bit more complicated.
no ghosting?? I'm sold!
9:25 😂😂😂😂😂😂 instantly subscribed. Absolute beauty
I'm glad someone got it. :)
what about the anycubic predator? its exacly the same and it cost 330. huge printing surface and completely rigid frame?
Yeah we got 2 and they are animals - eh predators - lol
It looks like a great printer. I would love to get my hands on one.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Wanna buy my Artemis? I am thinking about selling it. I'll make you a deal!
@@thelightspeed3d712 i might be interested if DPT isnt, how much?
Bruh its Will $1600 in the crate with upgraded Bondtech extruders on both sides, and wham Bam flex system, Slice Copper head hotend and a entire spare effector, extra fans etc.
mainboard is mks robin nano (it even says it on it 6:30) it's just marlin nothing proprietary there. Did you try changing firmware?
Judging by your comment and others, it may in fact be running marlin, but the USB i received was corrupted, so I'm unsure if Flsun is providing the required copy of Marlin to us as the end users. If it running Marlin and they are providing that file for us to modify, then the only issue I really have with the electronics is the touch screen and the drawbacks it brings. If they aren't providing a copy of Marlin for us to modify, it will be quite difficult to build our own which functions as well as this one does. I personally would opt for installing a Duet in this circumstance.
@@DesignPrototypeTest yes, they are providing, I received one for testing and I found files with .CUR extensions on sd card. These are .BIN files firmware loaded into the board and them renamed automatically to .CUR. So, there's nothing proprietary there. The printer is running marlin 2.0 and I don't think there's any problem with the display either. You can change the firmware for any other you wish.
Drinking game idea. Every time he says clone you have to drink!
I looked on many of your videos, on most things i do agree with you, on some I do not, but what i like is the way you get into the details of things. Keep it up man.
I just received the FLSUN QQ-S
$50 more than the one you reviewed, 260x260x370 print volume.
Still has the noisy driver for the extruder, same extruder and hot end and fans. PS is bigger and it has a fan on the case that has some noise. The user interface seems more complete. The initial leveling seemed to go OK, but it was done cold. When I heated it up to do the test print (elephant cell phone holder) the first try the nozzle was nearly dragging on the print bed. I redid the Z-Offset a bit and it printed OK, but needs tuning for extrusion rate to better squish the first layer.
I think it will be a good printer, but in the future I may put a DUET into it.
Scott in Harwood, MD
Unless you are specifically looking for a smaller second printer like i am ?
The cover is about weight yes. The best way is to keep it, i uave counterweights on my delta i build because the effector pulls one direction. If you got only the motor balancing the weight, then you have a forced balance instead of mechanical balance. This can make the prints worse as the motor compensates for the non balanced belt and it will move different down and up. A balanced moves same in both directions. Now the covers are not on the belts, but ot still gives a displaced weight on each outside
But surely those covers are not counterweights, they are simply additional weights pulling down, same as the rest of the effector apparatus.
@@Graham_Wideman yes and no, they are just weights, however it depends on the center of gravity so technically they are on the outside, and thus becomes a sort of counterweights. however , it depends on where they are bolted. if they are bolted on the inside of the z , they are just weights and prevent a balance. Now, it doesent matter that much if you have a pla or a petg effector as the construction is very light. I would still keep them though as you get a bit of inertia on the belts. Too little and a tiny bump can move the effector ( i got that issue at the moment where my effector setup is so light it can move by a belt coming in to contact with a z axis glider. Basically it means i must have very straight belts where a heavier effector would just catch that and eat it. The nema 17:s are strong so in that sence it would be very very heavy for them to not be able to move before the motor goes. The bearing however on mine went bonkers on one motor recently. I print a lot in similar height and it had grinded itself sorta. thinking of actually make a manual rotation /overlap some day when i remove my belts to get the stress even .
Awesome video, thanks and I think you pretty much sold me on it, lol! 😁👍🏼 By the way, I have 2 Ender 3 Pros (both modified quite a bit) already and this delta will be a nice addition to the collection, for Sure. 😊
Thoughts on the Anycubic Predator? Larger build area and good overall reviews.
Apparently it's not for sale in the United States. At least not through Anycubic. It looks like a very nice printer. I would love to get my hands on it.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Ali Express is still selling them, Get one, you won't be disappointed. I liked it so much, (Got the 1st one just over a year ago) I grabbed a 2nd one a month ago, 1 of the last U.S. stock. Prints great right out of the box. It's so easy to upgrade too.
Just bought this printer as it seems amazing what you can get now for 200 bucks. But I am planning just to use it out of the box no fiddling around - printing my first test nut and bolt print now in glorious shiny pink! It's coming along nicely 15% in to the job. Turned the speed slightly to 110% that's fine for me. I won't be turning speed to 200% or fiddling around with it in any way. I'll just print as is and let you know hope it lasts. "upgradeitis" is a terrible affliction.
upgradeitis lol
Just seen this model on Amazon.co.uk for £189 and was tempted but not sure about the board. Can it be upgraded to one of the BigTreeTech boards? I currently run my Ender 3 Pro of the SKR Mini E3 with no problems.
I'm sure it can be. I doubt I will ever use that control board. It's made an China and I've never used a Chinese board and been satisfied. In the end I'm always frustrated with some failure of it. I know everyone balks at the £135 price tag for the Duet, but man, it's made in your home country, and it really is the best control board and firmware out there. it's so easy to use and install and the usability once installed with Wireless printing and print monitoring. I don't know why anyone would do battle with Chinese electronics trying to get them to work. My time is worth more than the increased price tag.
Might be my favorite video of yours this year. Have you printed with it more since you made the video? Any follow up notes?
Thanks Cyrulean. I only finished the video with the test prints yesterday. The only thing I've printed since is a large test print to see if it becomes less dimensionally accurate closer to the edges of the bed. It prints perfectly over the entire bed.
Design Prototype Test cool good to know. I have two mp mini deltas and I love them but they are a ton of work and I want to upgrade to a bigger delta. This one seems like what I was looking for.
Thanks! I also got asked by flsun to review the Q5 but I've been absent for quite a long time and didn't want to come back with a review 😅Anyway, now I regret my decision because I thought that it would be just another one of those chinese printers with thermal runaway disabled and a bunch of cloned parts with terrible quality...
Oh and you mentioned the locked-down firmware; are you sure about that? The screen and UI looks like a makerbase screen, which is compatible with marlin. So I'd think they probably just slapped marlin 2.0 on there
Hi Constantijin, Nice to hear from you! I didn't realize that you were trying to actually do the YT thing so intensely last year. I thought I was subscribed, but apparently I was not. Now I have rung the bell, and I just watched a bunch of your videos. 7k subs is super respectable. You shouldn't quit. I'm going to promote your channel at some point.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Thank you so much for your nice words! I always had YT on the back of my mind, and I filmed a lot of projects that I haven't even shared yet. But whenever I just think of editing, I'm already burnt out. There's just something about watching myself ramble for hours on end that doesn't seem to work for me. But I think I'll give it another try. And don't worry about promoting my channel. There are other channels that deserve it way more. Plus, I still haven't forgotten the last time you promoted me 😊
Just because a chip has a logo silkscreen ed on does not mean it's legit.
There is still some value in replaceable drivers. Trinamic 2208s are a drop in replacement for the 4988 drivers, plus repairs if a driver goes bad. I still agree that open source boards are better, but even with proprietary parts, i am glad to see replaceable drivers. For the price, it's still a nice printer.
If you keep the plastic in a semi glassed state where it's just viscous enough to keep shape then cool it gradually from a heated build chamber the layer line weakness should be greatly reduced.
Just an FYI for those that are looking for an Ender-3 compatible print area (220x220 out of the box) in a delta ... you would need a delta w/ a 310mm or larger printable diameter. The FLSUN QQ-S gets closer w/ a 260mm diameter which would give you a cube print area of ~ 180mm.
I too love deltas. But the Sidewinder I got had Marlin? I upgraded the FW... they have several people making FW for it. This one probably has Marlin too? Don’t know. Good job.
Hi Stephen, yes, I shouldn't have spoken those words without doing more research. I did not test to see if Marlin is running on this machine, and it is apparent that I can flash it onto the board, but without the original firmware build from Flsun, I am skeptical I could attain such a functional build of Marlin without days and days of calibrating. Unless Flsun releases the firmware, or someone more acquainted with Marlin comes up with their own build and shares it, I don't think upgrading the firmware is a reasonable pursuit for me to undertake.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I'm with you. these Marlin versions are a poor version. Also the TFT screen on the FLSUN and the Sidewinder is problematic. The Sidewinder I have I put in a Duet. there just isn't anything better than Duet. The only thing I like about Marlin is how it handles ABL mesh leveling.
tbh when it comes to 3D printers I don't worry much about fan noise. A bigger concern is longevity / reliability of those fans, so I tend to try to use higher quality ball bearing fans wherever possible. If silence is needed then I can either slow the fan speed or start off with Noctua fans.
That board looked like a msk robin nano, firmware should be adustable with marlin 2.0 as an option.
judging by your comment and others, it may in fact be running marlin, but the USB i received was corrupted, so I'm unsure if Flsun is providing the required copy of Marlin to us as the end users. If it running Marlin and they are providing that file for us to modify, then the only issue I really have with the electronics is the touch screen and the drawbacks it brings.
Thanks for the review. I’m in the market, and I need something that I can grow with.
I’m looking at the combinations of multiple media, resin, wood, metal, vacuum/pressure forming, CNC....
You would definitely need multiple machines for that. Most printers that claim to let you use different materials really just let run multiple spools together to get multicolored prints with polymers. Even the industrial grade ones (www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/objet-350-500-connex3) are limited to polymers but allow you to use polymers that behave a lot like rubber. The material properties of polymers, metals, and wood are too different to run through the same machine. Wood and polymers would burn far before most metals even began to deform plastically. 3-in-1 3D printing setups (all3dp.com/1/all-in-one-laser-3d-printer-scanner-cutter-engraver-cnc/) and wood embedded PLA do exist though.
I have only seen combinations of 3D FDM printer, CNC and laser engraving, as this is kind of easy to do, as you just need different heads maintaining the same structure. Anyway as cool as it may seem you get a machine that is mediocre in all it can do, especially a CNC too small and too weak, and a 3D printer that can't be upgraded in any way. Also you are locked to the producer's generally buggy firmware and software that probably will never be updated (so you don't even learn a lot from that journey)...
When I started I chose a printer that was cheap and easily upgradable, so that during the journey I would have been able to understand how everything works and what's important. If this is what you mean with grow with I can recommend this path (but I won't recommend a delta, go cartesian or at maximum core-xy), however if you want something that you just buy and use for 10 years (or more!) without losing time on any upgrade just spend more money and buy a Prusa.
How about let's talk about non-planar printing before even thinking about throwing out 5 axis. Would that even be applicable to FDM?
7:02 - If it came from China the only way you can verify it is genuine is to contact the german company and confirm it's legit. Do you think the logo cannot be copied?
Good point.
I would be very interested in your top picks for 3D printing stocks.
you can stick the magnetic autoleveler sensor to the back of the spoolholder out of sight and it sticks perfectly over the two screws there.
Did you compensate the temperature for the fast one, as it should, or just raised the speed?
No. Good tip. Thank you.
Design Prototype Test the viscosity requires temp compensation. There is curves for speed and material , plus minus some degrees bit already at 50mm/s you should start compensate about 8-10 degrees vs 40mm/s to not make under extrusion. I use 205 on pla at 50mm/s , for 60 i would use 210 ish. Around 80 you are near petg temps
Sweater gang. Love the vid, and the sweater
"We need a good delta printer at a lower price point"
-This is stupid if you're going to make a high-quality printer, spend the extra 7 dollars for the driver, don't cut corners
-If you're going to give us a name brand power supply, you could give us some name brand high-quality fans
-This stuff is here for no good reason
-They could've spent more money and gotten ___
"Speaking of Stupid Things"
I'm not sure you know what budget gets you...
The reason for the cheaper extruder stepper driver is because TMC2208's have issues when you run them on the extruder with linear advance enabled. I did something similar on my recent 3d printer upgrade bc of this I used a TMC2100 on E0 instead of the 2208. So not technically a 'cut corner' but more of a compromise due to bugs in marlin with the 2208's and linear advance
is there a cheap & reliable corexy option? theres not rly an review of a good corexy printer. also i think u could actually flash a firmware on there, its a mks robin and mks tft, swapping it out with a duet should be easy too tho
I like the TwoTrees Sapphire.
What I can see is that is a good 3d printer for the price of $230.00, but asking for $1000+quality hardware components in something 5 times lower the price it looks bad, what I could consider a better way to advertise or recommend, is to say in the lines of : this components can be upgraded for better here is a list of them and additional recommendation, etc..As a delta printer for a beginner is a great device easy to assemble no need for previous experience and is doesn't need a special firmware + software to run, being encapsulated in open-source software is not always. If this printer is at good price comes with a 32 bit controller and software out of the box is a good deal.
It's obvious you are an experienced user, but you are not making it for the point of view of a beginner, I have seen a beginner in 3d-printer make a video of it saying is a good product for beginners since there is no need to dive into every single bolt, cable, just open sit down and assemble and print. For other beginner or looking for a good review without complain about hardware here is the video link: ruclips.net/video/73GX-h4S9B4/видео.html
This guy reviewing a honda civic: "c'mon honda, you could have put a lamborghini engine in this for like $5 extra dollars"
I am not a fan of closed source firmware. Would it be worth it to use this as a starting point and swap in a SKR board?
Great review, thank you! It sure sounds like an interesting option, but I would need more height. How easy do you think it would be to replace the vertical legs by longer ones? Just need to buy longer alu profiles and belts?
The only issue I would forsee is changing the printer's height in firmware. Unless Flsun provides their build, it will be very challenging to get a marlin build running which is as functional as this one is. Without first starting with their build I would personally not attempt the modification. Unless you want to switch to a Duet2 control board which would be a great but expensive upgrade.
Design Prototype Test yeah, i figured the firmware might be the problem. Though it might still work, if there are no z limits placed within that firmware. In that case, bed probing would just take the extra height into account.
Cool video!
TMC 2208's run to hot....automatic fail....2209's for the win! Next!!!!
I own this printer and I completely disagree with you, there is a lot wrong with this printer that you aren't talking about.
Do you mind elaborating? I'm looking to get a second printer and this one looked interesting. My first choice for a second printer is probably an Ender CR10.
@@About81Ninjas I agree, it is an interesting printer. For some back ground, this is the 6th printer I've owned and I was one of the very first to receive it from preorder. I was attracted to it due to it's smaller size and good features for the price. (32bit board, touch screen, insulated heatbed, glass surface, auto bed leveling etc.) For the preorder price it seemed like an absolute steal.
Unfortunately, this delta cannot print faster than an ender3 without severe quality loss (in fact it's worse), which completely defeats the purpose of owning a delta for me. This is due to the very flawed frame design.
The vertical extrusions are supported at only one point on each end, and very poorly at that. The base extrusion mounts only secure the extrusions on one side with two T nuts. The way the the extrusions are secured in the top of the frame is even worse, with just a thin band of metal forming a belt like clamp, again only securing it at one point right near the end. All of this results in the frame that is highly prone to twisting and wobbling.
The wobbling is worsened by the thin metal base, with the suspended corners adding a springboard type effect under the weight of the top. If you lightly knock this printer with one hand on the base, you can easily feel it wobbling for a full second. Touching two of the extrusions with just a finger on each, you can twist the printer with barely any pressure at all. It is honestly a joke.
Compare this to most other delta printers that use 2020 extrusions and you will notice they use the deep corner brackets at one end that secure the extrusion at two points, one near the end and one further up it's length. They also have 2 sets of cross extrusions joining the corners to complete the triangle. That results in a much more rigid frame that is far less prone to twisting and does not wobble like a spring board.
I spoke with anycubic regarding these issues and they actually went and designed some 3d printable parts to try and fix. I printed and installed the parts which improved the twisting a fair amount but did nothing for the wobble.
It is very disappointing because aside from the frame, this printer seems very decent in nearly all other aspects. Unfortunately it is just far too flawed for me to recommend anyone buy it, especially for the asking price. I paid only $280aud and I am not impressed. Needless to say if I paid $400+ I would be absolutely livid with this printer.
I gotta seemecnc max v2 ... 136 days print time on this firmware , old one had roughly 20 or 50 days . Zero maintenance . Like zero as in nothing needed even tightening. Zero broken parts. I only have done upgrades, ( PSU ; E3dv6 ; E3D temp sensor etc etc ) I dunno if it needed upgrades but I wanted to print Polycarbonate and Nylons. I've had it for ~ 5 years and I just laugh at all the problems people have with the Cartesians. The weird stuff I've managed to print is damn near magic ... Try and 8mm x 120mm octagon . I think I got one up to 200mm , but strangeness starts to happen around 120mm, I think the plastic itself starts bending. Delta has to be king . Lead screws are every machinists argggg . Extra moving axis = why ? Thanks for spreading the word about delta. I did not have any problems setting up arm lengths.
Hey,
i have the flsun q5, both test prints printing really nice but whatever i slice in Cura 4.12.1 with the Q5 profile looks horrible.
Someone please can help me and tell me what i need to change
Amazon has the FL SUN Q5 for sale at $269 and a pop up of $25 coupon. 3/18/2021. I did notice the description says you can heat the printer to 110 degrees C.
I wonder if this would benefit from a remote direct drive. seems like this might be a good platform to try something like out.
I just received this printer in the mail today. It was very easy to assemble and is printing a test print as I write this. I'm cautiously optimistic that this printer will be a good addtiion to our little print farm. The fan does make a little bit of noise, but honestly it's the quietest printer we have so I have no complaints.
i don't get why they would force consumer to use the firmware as is. it's a standard mks robin nano board. got the older mks 1.4 my self. and fairly easy to program marlin firmware for. i do get it's possible to "brick" the board through marlin settings. but very sure this printer does too.
About the skin artifacts. There's "magic number" layer heights for deltas. You won't get rid of the "branch holes", but the vertical lines in plane surfaces.
The extrusion shows issues at higher speeds. That's probably because the extruder stepper isn't calibrated out of the box.
Have fun with the printer! I run a QQ-S Pro and like it as well. They're close brothers.
I disagree with anyone asserting the existence of "magic numbers" for layer height. In my experience there is no real-world noticeable difference using layer height settings tied to step counting. Furthermore, even in theory, "magic number" settings would not be applicable to delta printers because there is not Z-axis stepper motor that parks itself at a certain height while the printer prints all geometry on that layer. Instead all three stepper motors on a Delta are constantly moving.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Sorry, but you are wrong, there are! I use them and it makes a very noticeable difference.
Give this a read and you'll understand.
reprap.org/forum/read.php?178,763881,763883
This link will also provide you with information about your issue with lost steps.
99.9% chance all those chips are counterfeit... when the Chinese steal IP they have no problem with printing any names or logos on the counterfeit goods... in this case, chips.
I have watched several of your videos on this printer and it has my attention. I am currently experimenting with a Monoprice Mini Delta and the printer is pretty neat for its size and features. I just ordered the Q5 from and an eBay vendor for just under-going listed price. Thank you for your insights and observations its features.
If I want to make the FLSUN SR taller... like HE3D's k280.... can I extend the 2060 uprights and move the linear tracks higher and update these bed parameters?
Hi, I have the FLSUN QQ-S pro and I purchased the TMC2209 stepper drivers, have you done a video on how to do the upgrade.
I am very interested in this printer. Will it work with TPU filament or only PLA and ABS as seems to be indicated on the front panel? Also, can this printer be driven by something like Repetier via the USB connection or will it only work with G-files from an SD card? Thanks for the nice review.
Hi, i have the same questions! no answers?
i have printed with tpu petg and pla with mine using repetier host, the program is on the sd card that comes with it. its quite enough for me to watch tv in the same room with it printing.. 2022 late but someone may be helped.
Good to see you back, mate!
Hey, man, I was using 16-bit MCU's in 1979!
My experience with delta printers may be colored by a Rostock MAX v2 that eventually ended up as a large, expensive paperweight (fails the Q-tip test: push the frame with a Q-tip, shouldn't be a visible carriage shift).
However my understanding is that they are very difficult to get an undistorted print from. Any errors in axis position values (including after dis-/re-assembly), an arm slightly too long or short, a bit of lean or twist in the (tall) frame, any lack of rigidity and now you can't print a flat surface.
I bought the older bigger flsun qq and it kept slamming into the bed. So i sent it back and a few weeks later they sent a heated glass bed which i didn't know was coming. I didn't know how to fix the problem and refuse to deal with china so thats why it went back. Bought a new cetus and the mofo caught on fire, so phuk cetus.
MKS Robi Nano runs a modified Marlin that you can configure through a txt file on the SD card. It lacks a lot of config options and the UI overloads the processor. So you should change it to a Marlin with 12864 UI and on screen buttons (its PITA to use it instead of an encoder) but it will print faster, smoother and you can basically configure anything.
Just look up Two Trees Sapphire groups on Facebook, the Pro and the Plus has this board, too.
@@SianaGearz They just added a GUI and a config grabber that "eats" the config txt from the SD card.
the GUI doesn't included, it's closed source
@@SianaGearz facebook.com/1854349388214560/posts/2523439807972178/
I disagree with having a delta as your first printer, especially if you are non extremely tech oriented. I recommend a non-bed chucker style printer like an Ender 5. My first printer was a FolgerTech FT-5 R1, so I had to build it. I am definitely tech savvy and it still took me months to figure out. Now, five years later, I don't mess with deltas. I prefer direct drive, reverse-bowden, non-bed chucker style printers. You can print with more types of materials more easily and they are easier to upgrade.
I dont think I could trust this printer. Maybe great for kids . Not for real men
Wow .. pretty rough review for a cheap printer ... kinda whiney...
Nice printer, especially for the price! Deltas are cool, but what about core-xy? In my opinion it's a slightly more balanced design, maybe not as fast, but they are generally a lot shorter for the same amount of usable height, and are easier to design for large building volume. Also they seem to be less susceptible to having mass in the hotend, so easier to have a direct extruder (the longer a bowden gets the less effective it is).
CoreXY are the Goldilocks frame design in my opinion.. They aren't without problems, but they will probably rule the market in a few years. I will always love Deltas the best just because of the coolness factor.
I haven't owned a 3D printer and was highly interested in this until I saw the updates.
Is it possible to fix the electronics issues without laying out more cash for another board?
How long would the average user get by until this became a necessity?
Thanks for any info.
According to other comments you can flash Marlin onto the control board. Doing this won't fix the issues I'm having because they are hardware based. Perhaps replacing the stepper motor drivers would fix the issue, but genuine Trinamic stepper drivers cost ~$14 each from a U.S. Supplier. They are only ~$6 each from China, but then they will probably be defective again. Also, the touch screen module is the source of many of the issues. That would need to be replaced/downgraded to a 12864 display for about $11. Finally, I was so turned off the last time I tried to get Marlin working on a Delta printer that I personally never want to go through that battle again. Basically, it will cost $50 in parts and possibly days and days of installing/tweaking Marlin. After all that work, a successful outcome is unknown. The problems could be coming from some other component on that control board. The other option of installing a Duet is more attractive. While it costs a lot, the peace of mind knowing that it will work and the ease of installation are worth it. Not to mention the far superior firmware for running delta printers along with all the other benefits of a Duet, (like controlling the printer through any web browser). Seeing this thing fail on me has changed my mind and I don't think anyone should buy this printer anymore unless they are prepared to add $175.00 for a Duet board to the purchase price.
@@DesignPrototypeTest
Thank you for your very informative and helpful reply.
the qq-s works good too. bigger. may be worth a review.
I have updated and modified the firmware on my Sidewinder X1
what printing speed u think this can handle i just got the printer today doing the test elephant speed is set to 100?
Thank you for your video. I bought the printer before I saw your update 2. If I keep it, what is the minimum speed I should use to avoid problems? Why are the original prints no longer coming out?
If it fails, it won't really matter which speed you run it at. The electronics will either fail on you or not.If they do, just upgrade to a Duet board like I did.
@@DesignPrototypeTest thank you very much for your responses and your duet 2 video, it was amazingly useful! I will test the heck out of it the first month so that if it fails, I can still return it.
A toy to make toys
Welcome to 3D printing. Then again, I've made some really useful things ( ruclips.net/video/S5cGvl2sgHI/видео.html ) that I couldn't have made otherwise.
The vinyl strips helps eliminate vibration
l 3d print as a hobby
Me too. Not many people have figured out any way to make any profit from 3D printing. I heard of one guy with a printer farm making nerf gun parts.
I do too. I sometimes about trying to come up with a few designs to try to sell, but I'm not sure it would be worth the trouble. I keep myself occupied making little things for myself, family, and friends.
This looks awesome, I’m new to this stuff , I’m looking to make car interior trim , what is max size this will make ? Height and table.
Thanks
200mmx200mmx200mm
Same fan hz. + Same fan hz.=constructive wave
Awesome boy helping out... you're a good dad.
You think putting so much ads in you videos is a good idea? Check the dislikes if you have any doubt! Content creators can make money being smart, but doing this is what makes a channel not worth watching!
As a RUclipsr, I have access to a graph that shows exactly the time stamp when people stopped watching my video. I can verify or disprove your claim by simply matching up the time stamps of ad placements and seeing if those time stamps coincide with a decline in viewership on the graph. I'm happy to report that there is absolutely zero correlation. In other words, people do not stop watching my videos because of ads. If you dislike ads so much I certainly recommend that you become a RUclips premium member. I have been one for years, and think it is well worth it. There are other perks besides ad free watching. The bottom line is that I need to be compensated for making these videos. Advertising is one way to make that happen. RUclips premium is another way. Have a nice day.
what's the build volume and what can it use re reels of stuff... does it auto resume and outage of electric or shop if it runs out of stuff?
can you upgrade the a4988 stepper motor driver to a tmc 2208 or 2209 without firmware changes?
No.
just getting started with the video, but i really like that old-school sci-fi looking thermostat we've been seeing in the background. could you tell me who makes it please?
Yeah, I live in a rented house that was built in the 1970's. The thermostat is original. It says "Honeywell" on it. It's not a style choice I made. It's just what I have.
@@DesignPrototypeTest thanks! its awesome! it still looks very stylish, in a 2001: a space odyssey kinda way. i'd be tempted to turn the whole room into a 3d printer replicator farm spaceship :-D
the video was great btw, thank you, it does look like a very good value printer. have you looked into whether you could flash a bootloader onto the mainboard with a spare arduino, like one can with the old creality boards, so you could make the firmware changes and few small fixes it needs without spending too much? given the price class, i think its the route a lot of people would prefer over installing a duet, if its possible. then again, the printer is really pretty good as it is. definitely a few oversights but it may not need levelling every time and maybe a cheap flying extruder or direct drive mod could reduce the need for quite such noisy retraction movements.
If this is a good cheap delta printer-you should not whine about cutting corners, that's the reason of it's price -_-
Who's wining? It's typical of Eastern Europeans from your vodka fueled machismo societies to call any criticism "whining." It's a technique your corrupt leadership uses to silence dissent. Here in the west we have a proud tradition of criticizing and even effecting change though our words. What's next? WIll you call me a girly man, and cut out my tongue?
Do you know why they discontinued the TEVO little monster?? I was looking into buying one finally but saw that they are basically out of business? Idk. I saw the HOMERS little monster being sold on the HOMERS 3d printer site but wasn't sure if it was just a rebranded TEVO little monster. If you could shed some insight on whether I should consider that printer or not if I was looking for a delta I would really appreciate it! But I know I'm asking for a lot 🤣
It looks like a carbon copy to me. Can't speak to quality. Make sure you watch my playlist about that printer before you buy it ( ruclips.net/p/PLtVk4dZInT81K-IVnqEEc44xoC7wZqAKU ). Just plan on installing a Duet into it from the start. The Anycubic Predator is also hard to find especially in the U.S. but it appears to be the updated/upgraded version of the Little Monster.
@@DesignPrototypeTest thank you so much for your response, I'll definitely be checking out that video and the printer you mentioned!
Would it be possible to add taller support beams to increase the build volume? Will the machine be able to adjust to something like that? What is the largest build plate for a Delta style 3D printer? Are there any manufactured here in the USA? Not merely assembled from global parts.
To your last question - NO
Even if someone would build them in the USA you would not buy them as they would be way to expensive. Thats what happens if you have things like safty regulations, warranty and things like minimum wages.
A simple pice of ... like that would cost about 3000$ and still have the parts not from the USA. It starts with the circuit board try to get it populated with 100% US made components.
The Anycubic Predator is the largest reasonably priced delta currently on the market. You could put taller uprights and longer belts on the printer pretty easily, but changing the printer's height in firmware would be difficult without being provided the root firmware build from Flsun.