That sealant you are using (acoustical sealant) is the correct stuff for sealing vapor barriers. It is designed not to set up and remain pliable. I’d use that sealant as well anywhere you have an unsupported tape seam, like between your rafter bays where the tape wouldn’t have a hard wood backing if that makes sense. You’d still want to tape it after but using the sealant is a belt and suspenders idea and the sealant is fairly inexpensive. Making sure that sealant is warm also helps a great deal with getting it out of the caulking gun. Id also consider running 1.5” foam board over your vapor barrier on your exterior walls before you run your interior sheathing or t/g siding. This will cost a bit more and be a bit tricker for trimming out doors/windows but will significantly reduce your thermal bridging from outside to inside. Especially with the extreme winds/cold you get in that area. This is a step I wish I had done when remodeling my cabin. Lots of good info online and on RUclips done by CCHRC out of Fairbanks. Also, great video as always. I enjoy all the content you post!
@@ursusak right on thanks for all the helpful info! Do you think the foam board is actually worth the effort and cost? It’s not like this place will be heated full time in the winter. I don’t see a benefit as far as saving heat fuel/wood. But the speed in which the cabin heats up at -30 might make a difference to me… I’m not sure how long it’s going to take normally
@@BackcountryAlaska Not sure as far as the heat up goes. In theory if heat is not escaping as fast it should rise quicker but at the same time everything in the cabin is acting as a thermal battery for those cold temps. Since it’s stick built I would assume it’ll heat up faster than a log structure. It might be worth a 5 minute phone call to cchrc and see if they can give you some better insight on performance. Foam board will run you roughly $35 a sheet here locally. Cabin is small enough that it shouldn’t be too bad but again it adds complexity to the finishing work. If it’s not heated full time you’re probably right in omitting it, just depends on how often you see heating it. “Is the juice worth the squeeze?”
You have an outstanding view? That place is beautiful 👍👍🎉🎉
Great job on the progress, looking forward to seeing your next upload
@@JohnA-s6k thanks for the kind words, I’m excited to show it to you all
It’s all good it’s all enjoyed nice cabin 🎉🎉🙏
A beautiful cabin you’re almost there
@@richardwalker7331 thanks I hope so! It’s been a big project
Making lots of great progress! 😊
Yes! Thank you!
That sealant you are using (acoustical sealant) is the correct stuff for sealing vapor barriers. It is designed not to set up and remain pliable. I’d use that sealant as well anywhere you have an unsupported tape seam, like between your rafter bays where the tape wouldn’t have a hard wood backing if that makes sense. You’d still want to tape it after but using the sealant is a belt and suspenders idea and the sealant is fairly inexpensive. Making sure that sealant is warm also helps a great deal with getting it out of the caulking gun.
Id also consider running 1.5” foam board over your vapor barrier on your exterior walls before you run your interior sheathing or t/g siding. This will cost a bit more and be a bit tricker for trimming out doors/windows but will significantly reduce your thermal bridging from outside to inside. Especially with the extreme winds/cold you get in that area. This is a step I wish I had done when remodeling my cabin. Lots of good info online and on RUclips done by CCHRC out of Fairbanks.
Also, great video as always. I enjoy all the content you post!
@@ursusak right on thanks for all the helpful info! Do you think the foam board is actually worth the effort and cost? It’s not like this place will be heated full time in the winter. I don’t see a benefit as far as saving heat fuel/wood. But the speed in which the cabin heats up at -30 might make a difference to me… I’m not sure how long it’s going to take normally
@@BackcountryAlaska Not sure as far as the heat up goes. In theory if heat is not escaping as fast it should rise quicker but at the same time everything in the cabin is acting as a thermal battery for those cold temps. Since it’s stick built I would assume it’ll heat up faster than a log structure. It might be worth a 5 minute phone call to cchrc and see if they can give you some better insight on performance. Foam board will run you roughly $35 a sheet here locally. Cabin is small enough that it shouldn’t be too bad but again it adds complexity to the finishing work. If it’s not heated full time you’re probably right in omitting it, just depends on how often you see heating it. “Is the juice worth the squeeze?”
@@ursusak makes sense to me. Thanks for the insight and I’m glad you enjoy the channel! Cheers