I've been reloading six or seven years. One of the mistakes I made when I was getting started was having other people in the powder room with me when I was reloading. The smallest amount of distraction can be dangerous. The first time it happened I ended up with some 40 grain V-Max that I clocked around 6000 fps coming out of my .22-250. The second time it happened I caught it before I started seating bullets. I stopped having friends hang out with me while I was reloading and haven't had that problem anymore. I live out in the country and people always stop by unannounced, and I appreciate all of them. If someone stops by while I'm in the powder room, I just stop what I'm doing. I removed all the extra chairs so they usually don't stay too long.
I agree with keeping out distractions. One can accidentally wind up with either a overcharge, or a squib (no powder) load, either can be dangerous! Being consistent with your reloading habits is the key to reloading safety!
I have a friend who has a Hornady lock and load progressive press. Which means it does all the steps at the same time. And he’s new to reloading. About 10 years now and he is a machinist. I told him that too many things are happening at the same time. If one doesn’t get a charge he probably won’t catch it . Or one doesn’t get primed. But case prep is so important and you can’t be in a hurry. My advice is to get a single stage press . I’ve been loading since 1978 when powder was $10 a pound. I don’t think it’s cheaper but a hobby and if you don’t enjoy it you won’t do it. My buddy had a friend that gave him the lock and load setup after spending about a thousand on it. Said it took his beer time. That being said, it’s a lot of fun if you’re chasing tighter groups. When you can hit a coyote or groundhog at 2,3, or 400 yards then you can certainly hit a deer or other big game animals easily.
Amen. Reloading is also very relaxing and a means to disconnect from the world. Plus, finding “that” one round that produces outstanding results is very rewarding.
Another thing I have seen (up close) is some guy in Montana does his load development in early spring when it's 50 degrees outside but then come July in Southeast Texas when it's 98 degrees in the shade some guy copies the guy from Montana's load data and wonders why it doesn't work or why he's popping primers. That extra heat outside can take a 'hot load' from hot to unsafe real quick. In other words DON'T use other people's load data! And if you do WORK UP TO IT. If you see unsafe signs half way there, STOP.
I have 3 different (hunting) loads for seasonal variety in temperature. Yes it might be easier just to make one when it's warm, but that cuts into muzzle velocity during winter, when temperatures are in the -20s. Temprerature has such huge affects on powder burn rates, primers and everything, that I feel more comfortable having a separate load just made for the temperature.
When I started loading 45 years ago I was too poor to make many mistakes most of my equipment was free and second hand. I mostly loaded 38 special with a Lee Loader with a dipper and a hammer, cost me about $2.50 to load 50 wadcutter loads.
Yeah... I get asked about it being cheaper too... I mostly reload because I enjoy the process and find it to be a good way to de-stress from a long day or week. Plus my kids think it's fun to help dad make bullets. If you were to calculate time and tools into the cost of making rounds it would almost be cheaper to buy a new gun for every round I shoot...
This is excellent advise for the new reloader. I am fortunate enough to have a friend that has been reloading for over 20 years and he was very up front about everything from initial cost to how you will eventually morph into something bigger. I still remember the first 9mm I reloaded, I was stressed to the hilt. Thankfully everything went well. When I reload the reload room is off limits to everyone including my wife to ensure I don’t miss the mark. Now I reload everything from .380 Auto, 9mm, 40 S&W to 223/556 and .308. I find reloading to relaxing and enjoy the actual process from start to finish. Luckily I started pre pandemic and was able to purchase my supplies at “normal” prices. I too laugh when people ask how much you will “save” and I quickly inform them that there are really no true savings but you have the ability manufacture when things are overpriced as in today’s current environment. To this day I still use single stage presses by choice and enjoy developing, shooting and documenting the results to further improve.
It's the same with home gyms right now. People ask me what do I need and think it's some super expensive gear. It's not. A solid rack, a good bar, weights, a solid flat bench, and a place to set it up. You don't need a 6 post rack, IPF certified bar and calibrated completion kilo plates for a first build. You might find you don't like lifting at home. Same as you might not like handloading ammo. Reloading can be god awful tedious and frustrating as all get out until you finally get that perfect load then it's all worth it. Same as my home gym. All the lifting alone is so worth when you get a PR.
This is great advice to beginning handloaders. I was blessed to have a mentor and also an uncle who was a highly accomplished competitive marksman, hunter, and outdoor writer. I started out with a Rockchucker kit in 1991. The kit had all that was needed to start. Some months later, I started adding peripherals to enhance the handloading experience. Don't think you need all the bells and whistles to get started. Accuracy comes from consistent and repetitive attention to detail, no matter what level of handloading you have achieved! ALWAYS: Safety first! Be smart, err on the side of caution w/charge weights, etc. Keep a clean, uncluttered bench. READ AND STUDY YOUR MANUAL: Get a great manual from Nosler, Lyman, Barnes, Hornady, Lee, etc. ( I own eight or more manuals from different companies). It's very rewarding to research and compare data in these books. KEEP GOOD RECORDS: Label your loads so you know what in hell you're shooting! DON'T GO ON A SPENDING SPREE: After a few years of reloading, I thought I needed a progressive press, so I bought one. A year later, I had so much pistol and rifle ammo, I didn't know what to do with it all! After settling down with a Lyman turret press, I found that sweet spot between volume and production efficiency. The Rockchucker is used for developing, higher performance accuracy & Incremental pressure loads, and the Lyman press for my standard pistol reloading. Good luck and have fun!
A great quick overview of what's to expect once you start down the rabbit hole. I been reloading for pistols for 15+yrs...got into casting/Power Coating also & just started reloading for rifles 2yrs ago ....it still amazes me how every day I seem to learn something new about reloading & also need to acquire a new tool or equipment.
As a former reloader, This is well said! Now over 70 yrs old, I have sold my reloading equipment but I still have the books of which he speaks. LISTEN TO HIM ! ! !
I've been handloading for more than 50 years. Not to save money, (of course!) but because I seem to be attracted to odd and mostly unavailable (obsolete) calibers. Also cast my own bullets, for the same reason. Thanks for the video!
I live in the People's Republic of California...I know...I know...but living hear is the sole reason I got into reloading. I figured the politics would eventually get to the ammo, like it has with buying guns here, and it's now looking this way for the whole country! Anyway that's why I reload...to insure that I will always have a way to have ammunition when I need it. Love the channel! Please keep doing what you do! Thanks
Similar experience Michael, Use to Live in People's Republic of New York under Emperor Cuomo. May I suggest move, run away as fast as you can. We did several years ago and it was the best thing all around we ever did. I couldn't even touch a handgun in NY. Here in NC I teach the CCHP course. Not to mention NFA items as well. And the unrestricted AR platform, magazines, etc. I could keep going but I think you already know. Keep reloading!
When I buy a new rifle, I also buy the reloading dies for it but use factory loaded ammo to see what my rifle likes and then I reload copying the advertised velocity of the most accurate round and working a load up from there. I like the slower burning powders that will fill up the case.
Now i quickly check if i can purchase the dies, brass and bullets and factory ammo before i buy the firearm. Just did this w both 6mm Creedmoor and 44mag. And yeah i could so i did. Very happy this way knowing i could shoot and improve. Once had a guy lay a box of 357sig on me, so i bought a firearm to shoot it. Now i can’t find any more.
All very good points. I started loading in 1979. There was no internet to teach how to do it. So I have a very large collection of loading manuals and would never use any loads found on line with out checking them out in a manual. Save money HA! But I have shot 10's of thousands of rounds when I wouldn't have shot near that much if I had to buy loaded ammo.
If I could tell my past self one thing, it would be to get a Forster Co-Ax instead of a Lee Turret. Little did I know I'd get addicted to accuracy. After measuring things at every stage of the process (shoulder bump, charge weight, case base to ogive, and total indicated runout) I might as well have a single stage at this point. Less sloppy without the turret.
I reloaded my first time in 1988, I am still learning and although I may not agree with everything said, I am smart enough to not call most people wrong and it is all valuable info....
dont size without annealing. you will be fighting your dies until you reralize easch piece of brass hardens differently, and then requires different tensions to bump your shoulder. if you anneal you can count on the same die settings for each piece
I started reloading in 1976. In the last 2 years I bought a Hornady comparator gauge. I sure wish I had one in 1976. I am reloading the best ammo of my life since buying the comparator. With rifle ammo I measure the length of the cases and throw out the short stuff and shorten the long stuff to something within a safe range as per SAAMI specs. Checking out RUclips videos is a huge help.
#7: Not washing your brass to remove oil residue etc. #8: after loading, check each round individually by weighing to ensure all rounds are loaded with the proper amount of powder, any lapse of concentration can cause some powder to drop out of the casing, or not be inserted at all. It happened to me when I loaded my second lot of rounds. A squib load is an unpleasant ecperience in the field or on the range.
That's why I do single stage. The powder is weighed on the scale to the exact number of grains, the powder is put in the case and a bullet is seated. That way I know for a fact the round has the right powder charge and it can't be spilled.
May I suggest that for people who are new or experienced that when it comes to reloading, buy the rarest or hard to come by/highest in demand equipment/parts/components FIRST. An example would be to buy certain reloading dies first then buy the press (the press is more common while the reloading dies may or may not be available.)
My reloading kits have everything you would need because I put the dies set, the length gauge and everything else I need to reload that one caliber in a Plano Waterproof Stowaway box. I have a stack of them in every caliber I own so no matter what, I can load ammo when others are scrounging for ammo.
40 years handloading. I have old manuals that are crazy over pressuer. I use a chrono and ... uh.. pressure tends to be a function of velocity.. I am not into rifle so much as handguns. I load both cast and jacketed and I know I can load cast loads at jacketed power but not the reverse. I agree.. shoot more not save money but.... I have bought expensive stuff that was worthless in the end. I am using a RCBS press from 1975 and it works just fine. Lee trimmers and primer seaters work really well for cheap. LEE bullet molds and bullet sizers. Bought stuff WAY more expensive that did not work as well.
I'm relatively new to reloading. Got an old single stage RCBS press from a buddy of mine, got all my gear offline from Midway. The only thing I had left to buy was a reloading manual and most of those were sold out. Then I found out Nosler, the company I was going to buy a manual from, offers all their load data online for free. Given I only reload 8MM Mauser, 9MM, and 30-30, I downloaded their pages and printed them off. They are now hanging up behind my reloading press on a cork board for easy access
The nice thing about the actual manuals is the information included other than recipes; from company history, information on how to develop loads, information on that company's bullets or powders, to interest articles. For instance, what's the story behind the development of the flat-nose ball bullet? Why does the 100-grain .308 half-jacket "plinker" bullet exist? What's the difference between an SST and a HPBT, or the A-Max and V-Max? Why on Earth is there a "Spire Point" bullet? (Actually, there's no printed answer to that one, possibly because the story is unpublishable.)
Agree on writing down all your load data in a accessible place, I've lost my perfect recipe when I moved and can't rember the exact powder I was using for 357mag so have to start again
When your starting out buy Lee. Until you know if you really need the high level/Price version. Trimmers, dies, etc. I started with a rcbs kit. Bought expensive redding dies for rifles that didnt need it. And my reloading skill was not high enough to use the extra edge of the redding dies anyway. Its RUclips channels like this One that make all the difference. Lapua brass in a Lee die is better than range brass through a redding.
Mistakes made when using a cartridge overall length gauge! Most people buy the gauge and a modified case but don't use them properly and I'll tell you why. When the gauge is used it's indicating the mod case to the shoulder in your chamber and then you push the bullet to the lands. Most will then measure from the tip of the bullet to the base of the case. BUT your shoulder on your sized fired case will very likely not be the same as the mod case. So let's say the mod case shoulder is 5thousands shorter then your sized case. Your distance to lands will now be 5thousands further then you think it's is. What you should do is take your comparator and measure the mod case from it's shoulder to base and subtract that from mod case base to bullet ogive. That will give you shoulder ogive to bullet ogive distance. Subtract your bullet jump from that number. Then when you seat your bullet in your sized case do the same. You could just add the difference between the shoulder of your mod case and your sized case to the measured overall length but it's more accurate to seat the bullet to the shoulder then the base. I for one will just take a sized empty case with lots of neck tension and seat the bullet long, remove the ejector from the rifle and attempt to chamber the cartridge seating the bullet further by further until it chambers with little effort. Then measure that cartridge band seat the bullet back the desired amount. Then put that cartridge in a bag labeled with the rifle it was fitted to and the bullet it holds. Anytime I need to reference it I have it available. I got one for each bullet I'll load in that rifle.
New subscriber here. I just did my first .38 special reloads a couple of weeks ago and it was heavenly. It felt so good. I showed my reloading data with a much more experienced reloader whom I trust and he saved me blowing up my Ruger GP 100 six inch by catching that I overloaded my .357 magnum rounds by 2 1/2 grains. It was Titegroup powder. I was using a 158 gr. bullet when it called for a 124 gr. One. Too much pressure. I learned a valuable lesson. I enjoyed your video and will check out the rest of your postings. BTW, I get having to work with what you have. Your hand simply is an emphasizer and is not distracting to me. For others if it is, don't look but listen. Easy peezy.
I save a ton on reloading but I focus on being a cheap butt. 556 is the cheapest I can reload those for 23c round pulled ball powder and projectiles and hertz begonia primers they very hard and but have reliable ignition. I scored some “450” powder recently theorized to be the mk262 powder it’s been great seems a much faster burn. I just use primers indicators for pressure max but I recently got a Chinese chrono and I love it very impressed.
Have not started yet,looking before purchasing,trying to avoid unnecessary expense. One of the things I’m unclear on is cleaning brass. Dry media versus pins….your opinions…thanks in advance.
Secret option number 3. Wet tumbler no pins. There are videos showing the results. I do occasionally use pins on brass i have picked up or if you plan on playing with "once fired" brass. But for my precision rifle loads I usually size; wet tumble no pins to remove lube, then trim chamfer and deburr. If you use pins the secret i have found is the FA media separator with the watercolor your brass while you rotate. It does a great job. If you don't have the brass dip into the water while it rotates it will be a nightmare and not work well. Best of luck. BAR
Thanks for the information and video. I have grew my selection of tools and equipment for reloading over the years. Started with a basic Lee turret set up. I didn’t have any way to clean my brass other than fine steel wool. It’s not cheap for sure.
It's always good to know where your ogive jam length is, but some bullets simply cannot be seated to jam minus 0.020". Trying to do so will leave hardly any of he bullet's bearing surface in the neck. The standard is 1 caliber length of bearing surface in the neck for a solid bullet seating in the case neck. You can fudge that a little, but too much will leave the case barely holding onto the bullet. On my 6.5 Creedmoor, the 130gr Berger VLDH bullets have that problem. They have a long boat tail and a long pointed tip. In order to get decent seating amount of the bearing surface into the neck I have to seat at least 0.180" off the lands. If I loaded to 0.020" and didn't consider the amount of bearing surface in the neck, I would only have 0.084" in the neck to hold the bullet. By contrast, the Hornady 123gr SST will have enough bearing surface in the neck at 0.033" off the lands and the 143gr ELDX will be at ogive jam and have 0.026" of EXTRA bearing surface in the neck. With reloading, math and knowledge are your friend.
The OAL has more to do with the safe pressure peak limitation. Heavier bullets possess more inertia and will result an earlier peak pressure than lighter bullets of the same caliber. Less "quick" propellants allow you to increase the safe charge as the effective volume increase (as the bullet moves down the bore) faster than the powder oxidizes producing more gas.
I agree in the very beginning nobody told me about headspace or anything like that it was all Sammy spec stuff. The other thing is about saving money most of the time I spend more money for around and if you had to factor in the price of everything that us Reloaders invest. I remember just starting out and ordering about 90% of everything I needed off of Amazon and it was about $2300...and that wasn't everything...but I also made mistakes... I bought a single stage Lee press and then I bought a progressive press from hornaday. I got different dyes for each caliber for each press....So there was some money wasted but I use Lee with Lee and so forth
When you have the luxury of reloading, you don't save money - you shoot more. I've been reloading for for 35 years - mostly .38, .357, .40 in handguns and .308 and .223 in rifles. I thoroughly enjoy the task of reloading. At our shooting club when I first started, we had an older gentleman who was an armourer in the military. He "made me his pet load" for deer hunting. Loaded in a .308 he used a 3030 bullet NOT loaded to maximum velocity. I still use it when I hunt. It was very accurate ammunition.
This video was very helpful THANK YOU. At the time of making this comment I have not made one bullet but I've done a lot of research. Watching your video reinsured me that I was heading the right direction. I was hoping to get started this weekend but now I realized that I have no way to check my scale so I will wait for the check scale weight to come in the mail and get started.
I have a beam scale and a digital. I cross check them often and clean the beam scale often when I load. Computer type can of air. Light brush. Never rely on digital 100%.
With COAL which is new to me trying it out i find the projectile stays in the chamber so adding a cleaning rod from the front to to keep the projectile in place is the right way
Looking to get in to reloading, both pistol (9, 40, and 10) and rifle (5.56, 270, various .30s, and 350) cases. For rifle, I am thinking of doing two press set-up assembly. First would be a single stage to decap, then tumble, then back to the single stage to neck size, following with a trimmer. Changing neck sizing dies to match caliber. Second press would be a progressive set up to prime, charge, seat bullet, and crimp neck. Changing the turret with dedicated dies mounted for each particular caliber. Buying a new caliber components and turret set up each year until I have what I need to load for the rifles I have. Would Lee's loadmaster progressive be acceptable for a budget minded, able to grow set-up?
RCBS says to cam into the shell holder an eighth of a turn for the sizing die and that if you back off the die the other way you may have clambering issues. They tell you to back off the sizing die if you are using a carbide sizing die. So if I hear you right you are saying I should back off the sizing die regardless of the type of die.. It is always disconcerting when one hears contradicting instructions.
It CAN be cheaper to reload certain rounds if you know where to source your projectiles. You don't have to use copper jacketed bullets for most pistol loads. I shoot IDPA and USPSA pistol competitions, and reloading using synthetic coated Blue Bullets, Gallant, and copper plated Berry's. I can reload 223 for $7.40 per 20 rounds using Barry's 55gr, and i can load 9mm for 1/2 the price of factory loads. 300 BLK subsonic Blue bullets are down right cheap compared to copper jacket projectiles, and are just as accurate at the short distances you shoot pistol/300 BLK. The loads are also more accurate, and are nicer to shoot than factory loads. So you CAN save money overall if your not buying Gucchi projectiles for everything.
I always confirm data with atleast 3 different sources before using it. Loaded thousands of rounds in multiple calibers including 5.7x28mm and still haven’t had an issue.
One of the biggest questions I have and questions I get asked all the time as a reloader. What is the best set of die brand to use? Myself, I can't answer this question. My grandfather gave me my first dies. Pacific and RCBS are the only ones he ever used. Now that I have tried venturing into long range I've bought Redding competition dies for my 300wm and Forester dies for my .223 and .243 Other than that I've never tried Horady, Lee or anyone else's dies. Back in the 60's and 70's when I first started no one I knew used or would use Lee, Lyman or Hurters dies. Now I used a Hurters press for years and loved it. But now I use RCBS Rock chucker and Forster press depending on my purpose. All long range stuff goes on my Forster press. Hunting unless long range is on my RCBS. If you have time can you please do a video on what dies are better or is there a difference in today's world? Thank you, Jeffrey O. Dohl
Hi Jeff, this playlist isn't necessarily brand specific, but it may answer some of the questions you had about it. Full Length vs Neck Sizing Dies - Does it Really Matter?: ruclips.net/p/PLXl7rMHW73NOphigW13PyC7dnxhW7_P8A
@Bolt Action Reloading I watched all three videos last night late. I really liked the looks and results of the Forster dies. I don't have them anymore but, I was getting in the neighborhood of the same results with my Redding competition die set in 300wm. With them I was getting .365" group at 100 yards. I couldn't afford to buy competition dies for all my rifles. Then I was offered more money than I had in them and sold the gun, dies and all brass. Stupid I know but unfortunately bills came first. Thank you so much for getting back to me. Reloading for 51 years now and the last 8 years trying to get into accuracy and consistency. Tightest groups I can get and still be on spot at 500 or 1000 yards. Love your work, determination and knowledge you project to the viewer. My hats off to you.. Well done. Jeff D.
10 years later... still just starting. lol. i always wondered about those case gauges to check shoulder. it would be much faster. i dont know that your statement is correct. I thought they do check shoulder as well as overall length/headspace. I think ive read that you can have custom shoulder lengths made. find maximum size bump .002" measure and email. is this analysis correct? ive noticed without annealing shoulder sizing is ridiculously inconsistent. the brass springs back differently with every bullet. to those new guys out there that are trying to reasonably size brass... get a $50 yellow tank torch from home depot heat your brass and then size. measurements will drop .002" every time.
His statement is 100% correct. Since those case gauges have to accommodate headspace dimensions .007" off SAAMI dimensions they are of no use when it comes to resizing brass .002-.003" under your fired headspace dimension. First you have to use a comparator to determine your fired headspace dimension, and then you use the comparator to help you adjust your sizing die to achieve the optimum shoulder setback.
@@avarageguy8934 how much is the machine? im referring to just using a torch. i look at color of the brass to determine the time needed to anneal. not ideal but i havent found an alternative economical method of improving quality as of yet. 2000$ amp is way overpriced for a consistent induction heating source.
Watch Eric Cortinas youtube vid on overannealing. Using bottled gas is fine, just have an accurate way to account for dwell time. I use metronomeonline at a 60 tempo after using 750 degree tempilaq to achieve their correct anneal. Be safe.
@@tomphillips2608 i think you may have missed the point of his video. erik was pointing out that to over anneal you would have to really melt brass before it loses consistent tensile strength. that said variations in annealing are not an issue. that said use your torch without concern about consistency. nothing wrong with consistent methods in fact its ideal, but again the results with variance were proven negligible. point being amp annealer is over kill for the price.
Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.
How are you liking that dillon press in the background??? I used my stimulus check wisely and upgraded my rcbs partner press to the dillon rl550c and went all out with all the little gadgets that goes along with it but ran out of primers and powder before I got to reload the first round on it. I'm almost to the point of pulling bullets from some of my 55gr 223 bulk ammo I've loaded just to get some powder to use my new press with some 77gr OTM bullets I got in. LOL
I think it’s easy to get lost in selection of components if you’re new, or if you’re starting on a new caliber. I’ve combed through advice on the internet (can’t think of a time I’ve solicited it) to pick up on some generalities of what other people have done, then balance it with what a primary source of information says- being a bullet or powder manufacturer. If I’m seeing that a lot of guys like x powder with y bullet loaded just over mid range of a book’s data, I’ll probably center my ladder loads there. Guess I’m just saying there’s a place for internet advice, but like you said, it’s not taking literal load data. Besides, that guy isn’t shooting your gun where you live. Your mileage will vary.
Sense Covid it cost me $12.50 for 50 rounds including lead, primer, powder in 2020. Now in 2021 it is close to $20 for 50 rounds. The dies cost me $90 for all sets. Thankfully I am handy with tools so I had to make a few basic items i needed.
Thanks for this info I’m totally new to reloading so new I haven’t even bought any equipment just getting in the research and vids like these are very helpful, I will check out your other vids before I make any decisions and any advice would be very helpful keep up the great work thanks again cheers Yogi Australia 🇦🇺 🤙🤙
I've been reloading for 21 years and it is cheaper to reload but I do shoot a lot more. I've gotten .30-06 rounds to 35 cents compared to $1.00 factory. I also reload for obsolete rounds. .577 Snider and .577-450 Martini Henry I can reload for less than $2.50/ round. Nobody makes .577 Snider anymore and I found 1 place than sells Martini Henry rounds for $10.00 each. Yes, you can save money (I have overall) so you can shoot more
thabk you for the video I just picled umy first press I am looking to mostly reload 450 bushmaster for hunting I can buy loaal ammonuition butI want t otry differnt projectiles to find my best deer round
Bullet seating is my number one problem now. I have lots of reloading manuals I have tried religiously to stay with the recommended COAL. My belief has been that COAL is directly related to the recommended powder charge, and that if you vary from that you could change chamber pressure? Apparently I'm wrong? Really confused and frustrated about this. I have been using the case gauges a d follow the due manufacturer instructions for setting up the die. I don't understand the process for finding the headspace for my rifle
To measure the chamber,, split the neck of the brass ( Dremble tool ) then size the brass. Place the bullet in the cartridge long . Chamber it slowly,, and extract it carefully until you come up with a repeated measurement. On Armulite rifle mine has a long throat,,, so what limits my COL is mag length. Longer COL , more room in cartridge,, lower pressures. Do you agree ?
I'll use people's data from forums or whatever. Sometimes I find a bullet and powder combo that I can't find published data for, well, someone on a forum has loaded those up before. I try to find at least two different sources that agree, and even better if they provide chronograph data with it
I don’t know if it be for everyone but something I learned from my father 50 years. ago about reloading was when you’re working out a load try to work it to where you can never double charge cartridge it’s a safety thing lol
I was at an indoor range where a guy was shooting his own reloads in his revolver. The report was loud, louder, super duper loud, super soft, i.e., his loads were all over the map. I got out of there and went to the other side of the glass to protect myself. Turns out he was well known for his inability to measure powder. Yikes.
Saving money reloading is not an absolute yes/no. It depends entirely on how much you reload. If you reload (and shoot) a lot, as I do, you spread the cost of the equipment over a large number of rounds. In the short term, you will be in the hole in terms of overall cost, and you WILL save money in the long run. Especially if you just load common loads for general shooting and aren't out to set accuracy records.
I never seen a problem in increasing COAL. It's decreasing or making shorter than the published info when you can create pressure issues. A question related to this. Some 9mm load data. Is 1.24, 1.45 and even as long as 1.66. How do I use said data. When I can't load that long for magazines length? Can you reduce charge by factor (x) and use said combination of projectile/powder safely?
Well done, Sir! Since I don't own a "precision" rifle, the book data is good enough for me. All my handloads shoot more accurately than factory ammo. True: Reloading costs more round for round than factory ammo. It is what it is. Be well!
Excellent advise. Other mistakes: Don't use your bodies loaded ammo and don't give as gift to anyone your own loaded ammo. You are no Remington or Federal ammo making company. Don't start with a progressive press and don't make thousands of rounds that you may end up to undo. Decide if you are loading for hunting or precision target shooting because the levels of precisions are different and you need different grade of tools. Safety don'ts: Never reload without wearing your safety glasses. Don't reload when you are tired. Don't reload when you are in rush and you need some ammo to take to the range.
With very few published exceptions, start off with lowest loads. Many manuals played one upmanship games so there have been many really scary top loads. Develop a good relationship with a scale and case trimmer. Speedy re loads can come after you confidently put five rounds through one hole in paper at 100 yds. Dirt clods don’t count until much later!
The more reloading manuals the better in my 6 years into reloading. I compare alot and have made up some loads too,but after careful research in my "library" and online. Hornady and the rest show no load data for 160 .308 projectiles for .30-'06,no problem,5 gr bullet weight difference is nothing considering bullets vary by weight so much in a batch.
@@dolphincliffs8864 check out Nosler’s online manual. In their tests only about one in three best loads by we’re in top velocity brackets. Playing mix and match could be dangerous, so stick with the newest manual available. Many canister grade powders have been manufactured off shore in the last few years.
@@davekoenig9935 I agree,cross sectional density,projectile weight etc were taken into consideration. These .30-30 bullets work just fine in an '06. 300yds 10" target. Believe me I was very cautious. I made someone else test them. They work well,no issues.
@@dolphincliffs8864 Not really! Not unless you score a can of H 4895 and make reduced loads, spitting bullets within their working range, and more importantly, how fast it spins. Speer pulled 338 x 275 gr. Semi Spitzers, due to them blowing up in Elk. Some animals were wounded this way out at 500 yds. The spin velocity was the culprit as the bullets had slowed way down. Ray Speer told me, his bullets retained 92% of their angular velocity at extreme ranges, which is why they tested every bullet’s expansion in wet lap bales from the local paper mill at 500 yds. Yet this missed the problems with their vaunted 4.0+ BC, 275’s made for Win. 338 Mags. 338 K T’s over revved them to where they hit bones and blew to pieces around ten inches in. 170 gr. 30-30 JFP’s. will do the same around 26-2700 fps. They become varmint bullets, even at very long ranges. Bullet fragments are no fun to bite into at dinner.
I have been reloading for more than 40 years. My mantra to people interested in reloading is, "You can spend hundreds of dollars to load thousands of dollars of ammo or you can spend thousands of dollars to load hundreds of dollars of ammo." I can load ammo cans of blasting ammo for range fun relatively cheaply by buying in bulk, not getting caught up in every shiny new reloading toy, and having inventory when times are bad for component availability. If your shooting for money or food you can spend a bunch of money getting an accuracy edge over mass produced ammo. If you know where you want reloading to take you it is smart to investigate what is out there and get advice from people that have the same strategy you are looking at reloading for. I couldn't be happy loading 10 cartridges to go on an annual hunt and let expensive gear sit in a safe for 51 weeks. I prefer to hit the range for a few hours a week which makes reloading extremely cost effective.
HI NK, for a AR bumping the shoulder back .003" should function fine. Sizing more than this isn't going to gain you anything and this is still a FL size.
having head/case separation on .300winmag Hornady cases. My suspicion is we should not fully resize the whole case and only do a neck size? how much, care to comment?
I absolutely hate when someone talks about whether or not you save money reloading because no matter which side of the spectrum they are on, they always get it wrong. The ONLY way to determine whether or not you are saving money is to look at it on a per round cost…period. Sure, you’ll shoot more because you have more ammo, but that is a direct result of the cost savings per round. If you simply look at it from a cost savings per round, over time you absolutely will be saving money…per round. You may spend the same amount of money, or maybe even more money, because you enjoy the reloading hobby but you get more from the dollar spent.
With the price of ammunition the way it is now reloading would be cheaper if you have all the components before the problems started and withthat said now is not the time to get into reloading as everything is out of stock right now
Appreciate the content you are putting out. When using shorter/lighter projectiles for the caliber (ie 123 gr 6.5 CM) and trying to achieve a .020" jump to the lands, the projectile is not seated deep enough to engage the full length of case neck. What is your thought on the minimal amount of neck engagement when trying to minimize jump? Is it generally acceptable to seat with less contact between the projectile/neck by some percentage of case neck length? Thanks for sharing any opinions.
I watched this because there was a coax press and thought I was going to get some nugett of wisdom .... it was a good video though , new loaders heed the advice
I’ve never seen a video on this but I assume there’s one out there I’m curious what would happen if you took 10 factory ammo five set to Sammy‘s and pull 5 bullet from factory ammo resize and set your specific rifle lands to see the improvement just over the correct cartridge overall length for your specific rifle, because that would be the same powder same primer the only difference is the cartridge overall length me know if you do it I’d love to see
Hi Mj, try checking out this playlist and don't hesitate to ask questions. Starting Reloading - Equipment: ruclips.net/p/PLXl7rMHW73NPuwsykAr9sWCRShsN6sjIB
Hi John, You are eventually going to have chambering issues. Many folks have great accuracy just pushing the shoulder back about .002". This will allow the chambering to be smooth and consistent every reload.
So I have a question about bumping the shoulder.. so I've been reloading some new lapua brass and brand new it's about 5 thousands less then after firing in my rifle. Now after I load a new case and check it again it grows about 10 thousandths.. I'm still pretty new so am I dumb for checking it after it's been loaded?
Sorry, where specifically in the process is the shoulder growing? Is it growing after resizing? If so I'd guess you're maybe working the neck more than you need to be and that's what's drawing the shoulder forward. As for what the common sense realist says, there's two schools of thought: He seems to subscribe to the school of don't bump: after firing, the theory is that the shell comes out an exact match for your chamber, but in reality it comes out an exact match for your hot chamber rather than your cold chamber. I've heard it said, I don't remember if it was Panhandle Reloading Eric Cortina or F class John, that “having a round that won't eject is a stupid reason to lose a match!”: they all bump and full length resize.
I've been reloading six or seven years. One of the mistakes I made when I was getting started was having other people in the powder room with me when I was reloading. The smallest amount of distraction can be dangerous. The first time it happened I ended up with some 40 grain V-Max that I clocked around 6000 fps coming out of my .22-250. The second time it happened I caught it before I started seating bullets. I stopped having friends hang out with me while I was reloading and haven't had that problem anymore.
I live out in the country and people always stop by unannounced, and I appreciate all of them. If someone stops by while I'm in the powder room, I just stop what I'm doing. I removed all the extra chairs so they usually don't stay too long.
Distractions are bad, I caught my thumb in the press one night and cut it clean to the bone and took a big chunk of skin with it.
I agree with keeping out distractions. One can accidentally wind up with either a overcharge, or a squib (no powder) load, either can be dangerous! Being consistent with your reloading habits is the key to reloading safety!
@@sariswindsong8614 ow.
You want to be at your Zen whenever you reload. Full attention and concentration!!!
I have a friend who has a Hornady lock and load progressive press. Which means it does all the steps at the same time. And he’s new to reloading. About 10 years now and he is a machinist. I told him that too many things are happening at the same time. If one doesn’t get a charge he probably won’t catch it . Or one doesn’t get primed. But case prep is so important and you can’t be in a hurry. My advice is to get a single stage press . I’ve been loading since 1978 when powder was $10 a pound. I don’t think it’s cheaper but a hobby and if you don’t enjoy it you won’t do it. My buddy had a friend that gave him the lock and load setup after spending about a thousand on it. Said it took his beer time. That being said, it’s a lot of fun if you’re chasing tighter groups. When you can hit a coyote or groundhog at 2,3, or 400 yards then you can certainly hit a deer or other big game animals easily.
Amen. Reloading is also very relaxing and a means to disconnect from the world. Plus, finding “that” one round that produces outstanding results is very rewarding.
I call it "therapy" 😀
Another thing I have seen (up close) is some guy in Montana does his load development in early spring when it's 50 degrees outside but then come July in Southeast Texas when it's 98 degrees in the shade some guy copies the guy from Montana's load data and wonders why it doesn't work or why he's popping primers. That extra heat outside can take a 'hot load' from hot to unsafe real quick. In other words DON'T use other people's load data! And if you do WORK UP TO IT. If you see unsafe signs half way there, STOP.
I have 3 different (hunting) loads for seasonal variety in temperature. Yes it might be easier just to make one when it's warm, but that cuts into muzzle velocity during winter, when temperatures are in the -20s. Temprerature has such huge affects on powder burn rates, primers and everything, that I feel more comfortable having a separate load just made for the temperature.
Reloading manuals are great for a starting point for each load
When I started loading 45 years ago I was too poor to make many mistakes most of my equipment was free and second hand. I mostly loaded 38 special with a Lee Loader with a dipper and a hammer, cost me about $2.50 to load 50 wadcutter loads.
I had the same thing in 30-06 and that was almost 35 years ago
Been loading for 5 years now. Anyone saying they know everything is doomed to fail. I'm subbing.
Number 1 rule: Never assume anything.
Number 2 rule: Check everything twice. You can redo a handload but you can't redo losing an eye or even worse.
Saftey first.
Yeah... I get asked about it being cheaper too... I mostly reload because I enjoy the process and find it to be a good way to de-stress from a long day or week. Plus my kids think it's fun to help dad make bullets. If you were to calculate time and tools into the cost of making rounds it would almost be cheaper to buy a new gun for every round I shoot...
This is excellent advise for the new reloader. I am fortunate enough to have a friend that has been reloading for over 20 years and he was very up front about everything from initial cost to how you will eventually morph into something bigger. I still remember the first 9mm I reloaded, I was stressed to the hilt. Thankfully everything went well. When I reload the reload room is off limits to everyone including my wife to ensure I don’t miss the mark.
Now I reload everything from .380 Auto, 9mm, 40 S&W to 223/556 and .308. I find reloading to relaxing and enjoy the actual process from start to finish. Luckily I started pre pandemic and was able to purchase my supplies at “normal” prices. I too laugh when people ask how much you will “save” and I quickly inform them that there are really no true savings but you have the ability manufacture when things are overpriced as in today’s current environment. To this day I still use single stage presses by choice and enjoy developing, shooting and documenting the results to further improve.
#6 - don’t shoot anyone else’s reloads!!
That should be number one and I don't even reload
Good!
Amen !
I got 100rds of reloaded 38 spl from my neighbor. Should I get rid of it? I don’t really want to.
@@2Years2Farm can you pull them down and start over?
This hand waving from the edge of the screen reminds me of the ending shots of the Swenghoulie show on MeTV.
Rubber chicken
Barry Grant Berwyn?! You're obviously from the Chicagoland area.
I can get behind these recommendations. They make sense.
It's the same with home gyms right now. People ask me what do I need and think it's some super expensive gear. It's not. A solid rack, a good bar, weights, a solid flat bench, and a place to set it up. You don't need a 6 post rack, IPF certified bar and calibrated completion kilo plates for a first build. You might find you don't like lifting at home. Same as you might not like handloading ammo. Reloading can be god awful tedious and frustrating as all get out until you finally get that perfect load then it's all worth it. Same as my home gym. All the lifting alone is so worth when you get a PR.
This is great advice to beginning handloaders. I was blessed to have a mentor and also an uncle who was a highly accomplished competitive marksman, hunter, and outdoor writer.
I started out with a Rockchucker kit in 1991. The kit had all that was needed to start. Some months later, I started adding peripherals to enhance the handloading experience.
Don't think you need all the bells and whistles to get started. Accuracy comes from consistent and repetitive attention to detail, no matter what level of handloading you have achieved!
ALWAYS: Safety first! Be smart, err on the side of caution w/charge weights, etc. Keep a clean, uncluttered bench.
READ AND STUDY YOUR MANUAL: Get a great manual from Nosler, Lyman, Barnes, Hornady, Lee, etc.
( I own eight or more manuals from different companies). It's very rewarding to research and compare data in these
books.
KEEP GOOD RECORDS: Label your loads so you know what in hell you're shooting!
DON'T GO ON A SPENDING SPREE: After a few years of reloading, I thought I needed a progressive press, so I bought one. A year later, I had so much pistol and rifle ammo, I didn't know what to do with it all! After settling down with a Lyman turret press, I found that sweet spot between volume and production efficiency. The Rockchucker is used for developing, higher performance accuracy & Incremental pressure loads, and the Lyman press for my standard pistol reloading.
Good luck and have fun!
A great quick overview of what's to expect once you start down the rabbit hole. I been reloading for pistols for 15+yrs...got into casting/Power Coating also & just started reloading for rifles 2yrs ago ....it still amazes me how every day I seem to learn something new about reloading & also need to acquire a new tool or equipment.
As a former reloader, This is well said! Now over 70 yrs old, I have sold my reloading equipment but I
still have the books of which he speaks. LISTEN TO HIM ! ! !
I've been handloading for more than 50 years. Not to save money, (of course!) but because I seem to be attracted to odd and mostly unavailable (obsolete) calibers. Also cast my own bullets, for the same reason. Thanks for the video!
I live in the People's Republic of California...I know...I know...but living hear is the sole reason I got into reloading. I figured the politics would eventually get to the ammo, like it has with buying guns here, and it's now looking this way for the whole country! Anyway that's why I reload...to insure that I will always have a way to have ammunition when I need it. Love the channel! Please keep doing what you do! Thanks
Similar experience Michael, Use to Live in People's Republic of New York under Emperor Cuomo. May I suggest move, run away as fast as you can. We did several years ago and it was the best thing all around we ever did. I couldn't even touch a handgun in NY. Here in NC I teach the CCHP course. Not to mention NFA items as well. And the unrestricted AR platform, magazines, etc. I could keep going but I think you already know. Keep reloading!
When I buy a new rifle, I also buy the reloading dies for it but use factory loaded ammo to see what my rifle likes and then I reload copying the advertised velocity of the most accurate round and working a load up from there. I like the slower burning powders that will fill up the case.
Now i quickly check if i can purchase the dies, brass and bullets and factory ammo before i buy the firearm. Just did this w both 6mm Creedmoor and 44mag. And yeah i could so i did. Very happy this way knowing i could shoot and improve. Once had a guy lay a box of 357sig on me, so i bought a firearm to shoot it. Now i can’t find any more.
All very good points. I started loading in 1979. There was no internet to teach how to do it. So I have a very large collection of loading manuals and would never use any loads found on line with out checking them out in a manual. Save money HA! But I have shot 10's of thousands of rounds when I wouldn't have shot near that much if I had to buy loaded ammo.
I own 9 reloading manuals from the 70s to current. They give me a great way to cross reference my load data.
If I could tell my past self one thing, it would be to get a Forster Co-Ax instead of a Lee Turret. Little did I know I'd get addicted to accuracy. After measuring things at every stage of the process (shoulder bump, charge weight, case base to ogive, and total indicated runout) I might as well have a single stage at this point. Less sloppy without the turret.
Good info. Just starting so this is valuable.
I reloaded my first time in 1988, I am still learning and although I may not agree with everything said, I am smart enough to not call most people wrong and it is all valuable info....
dont size without annealing. you will be fighting your dies until you reralize easch piece of brass hardens differently, and then requires different tensions to bump your shoulder. if you anneal you can count on the same die settings for each piece
Very good video,I’ve been reloading for a few years now and love it.I have never got the tool for setting depth of bullet but I am now.
I started reloading in 1976. In the last 2 years I bought a Hornady comparator gauge. I sure wish I had one in 1976. I am reloading the best ammo of my life since buying the comparator. With rifle ammo I measure the length of the cases and throw out the short stuff and shorten the long stuff to something within a safe range as per SAAMI specs. Checking out RUclips videos is a huge help.
i have been reloading for 25+ years and still add new tools now and then! getting into casting now for pistols and subsonic rifles rounds.
#7: Not washing your brass to remove oil residue etc. #8: after loading, check each round individually by weighing to ensure all rounds are loaded with the proper amount of powder, any lapse of concentration can cause some powder to drop out of the casing, or not be inserted at all. It happened to me when I loaded my second lot of rounds. A squib load is an unpleasant ecperience in the field or on the range.
That's why I do single stage. The powder is weighed on the scale to the exact number of grains, the powder is put in the case and a bullet is seated. That way I know for a fact the round has the right powder charge and it can't be spilled.
Everything you said is spot on. Especially the freebore issue, and the (LOL) money saving part.
May I suggest that for people who are new or experienced that when it comes to reloading, buy the rarest or hard to come by/highest in demand equipment/parts/components FIRST. An example would be to buy certain reloading dies first then buy the press (the press is more common while the reloading dies may or may not be available.)
My reloading kits have everything you would need because I put the dies set, the length gauge and everything else I need to reload that one caliber in a Plano Waterproof Stowaway box.
I have a stack of them in every caliber I own so no matter what, I can load ammo when others are scrounging for ammo.
40 years handloading. I have old manuals that are crazy over pressuer. I use a chrono and ... uh.. pressure tends to be a function of velocity.. I am not into rifle so much as handguns. I load both cast and jacketed and I know I can load cast loads at jacketed power but not the reverse. I agree.. shoot more not save money but.... I have bought expensive stuff that was worthless in the end. I am using a RCBS press from 1975 and it works just fine. Lee trimmers and primer seaters work really well for cheap. LEE bullet molds and bullet sizers. Bought stuff WAY more expensive that did not work as well.
I'm relatively new to reloading. Got an old single stage RCBS press from a buddy of mine, got all my gear offline from Midway. The only thing I had left to buy was a reloading manual and most of those were sold out. Then I found out Nosler, the company I was going to buy a manual from, offers all their load data online for free. Given I only reload 8MM Mauser, 9MM, and 30-30, I downloaded their pages and printed them off. They are now hanging up behind my reloading press on a cork board for easy access
The nice thing about the actual manuals is the information included other than recipes; from company history, information on how to develop loads, information on that company's bullets or powders, to interest articles. For instance, what's the story behind the development of the flat-nose ball bullet? Why does the 100-grain .308 half-jacket "plinker" bullet exist? What's the difference between an SST and a HPBT, or the A-Max and V-Max? Why on Earth is there a "Spire Point" bullet? (Actually, there's no printed answer to that one, possibly because the story is unpublishable.)
Agree on writing down all your load data in a accessible place, I've lost my perfect recipe when I moved and can't rember the exact powder I was using for 357mag so have to start again
3 ring binder and load data cards are the way to go. Documentation!!!!!
Save it in the cloud on your phone
When your starting out buy Lee.
Until you know if you really need the high level/Price version.
Trimmers, dies, etc.
I started with a rcbs kit. Bought expensive redding dies for rifles that didnt need it. And my reloading skill was not high enough to use the extra edge of the redding dies anyway.
Its RUclips channels like this One that make all the difference.
Lapua brass in a Lee die is better than range brass through a redding.
@@t3h8ar0n you are the rare case, very few should start with a progressive from the beginning.
Great video! A lot of information without a word salad!
Mistakes made when using a cartridge overall length gauge!
Most people buy the gauge and a modified case but don't use them properly and I'll tell you why. When the gauge is used it's indicating the mod case to the shoulder in your chamber and then you push the bullet to the lands. Most will then measure from the tip of the bullet to the base of the case. BUT your shoulder on your sized fired case will very likely not be the same as the mod case. So let's say the mod case shoulder is 5thousands shorter then your sized case. Your distance to lands will now be 5thousands further then you think it's is.
What you should do is take your comparator and measure the mod case from it's shoulder to base and subtract that from mod case base to bullet ogive. That will give you shoulder ogive to bullet ogive distance. Subtract your bullet jump from that number. Then when you seat your bullet in your sized case do the same.
You could just add the difference between the shoulder of your mod case and your sized case to the measured overall length but it's more accurate to seat the bullet to the shoulder then the base.
I for one will just take a sized empty case with lots of neck tension and seat the bullet long, remove the ejector from the rifle and attempt to chamber the cartridge seating the bullet further by further until it chambers with little effort. Then measure that cartridge band seat the bullet back the desired amount. Then put that cartridge in a bag labeled with the rifle it was fitted to and the bullet it holds. Anytime I need to reference it I have it available.
I got one for each bullet I'll load in that rifle.
New subscriber here. I just did my first .38 special reloads a couple of weeks ago and it was heavenly. It felt so good.
I showed my reloading data with a much more experienced reloader whom I trust and he saved me blowing up my Ruger GP 100 six inch by catching that I overloaded my .357 magnum rounds by 2 1/2 grains. It was Titegroup powder. I was using a 158 gr. bullet when it called for a 124 gr. One. Too much pressure.
I learned a valuable lesson.
I enjoyed your video and will check out the rest of your postings.
BTW, I get having to work with what you have. Your hand simply is an emphasizer and is not distracting to me. For others if it is, don't look but listen. Easy peezy.
Great points. Especially the c.o.a.l. I've had more than one "reloader" tell me I was an idiot for deviating from published c.o.a.l.
It's a bit like driving, anyone can give it a go but not everyone is a racing driver. Some shouldn't even be on the road!
I save a ton on reloading but I focus on being a cheap butt. 556 is the cheapest I can reload those for 23c round pulled ball powder and projectiles and hertz begonia primers they very hard and but have reliable ignition. I scored some “450” powder recently theorized to be the mk262 powder it’s been great seems a much faster burn. I just use primers indicators for pressure max but I recently got a Chinese chrono and I love it very impressed.
Have not started yet,looking before purchasing,trying to avoid unnecessary expense. One of the things I’m unclear on is cleaning brass. Dry media versus pins….your opinions…thanks in advance.
Secret option number 3. Wet tumbler no pins. There are videos showing the results. I do occasionally use pins on brass i have picked up or if you plan on playing with "once fired" brass. But for my precision rifle loads I usually size; wet tumble no pins to remove lube, then trim chamfer and deburr. If you use pins the secret i have found is the FA media separator with the watercolor your brass while you rotate. It does a great job. If you don't have the brass dip into the water while it rotates it will be a nightmare and not work well. Best of luck.
BAR
Thanks for the information and video. I have grew my selection of tools and equipment for reloading over the years. Started with a basic Lee turret set up. I didn’t have any way to clean my brass other than fine steel wool. It’s not cheap for sure.
GOOD, common sense information! Appreciate it very much!
It's always good to know where your ogive jam length is, but some bullets simply cannot be seated to jam minus 0.020". Trying to do so will leave hardly any of he bullet's bearing surface in the neck. The standard is 1 caliber length of bearing surface in the neck for a solid bullet seating in the case neck. You can fudge that a little, but too much will leave the case barely holding onto the bullet.
On my 6.5 Creedmoor, the 130gr Berger VLDH bullets have that problem. They have a long boat tail and a long pointed tip. In order to get decent seating amount of the bearing surface into the neck I have to seat at least 0.180" off the lands. If I loaded to 0.020" and didn't consider the amount of bearing surface in the neck, I would only have 0.084" in the neck to hold the bullet.
By contrast, the Hornady 123gr SST will have enough bearing surface in the neck at 0.033" off the lands and the 143gr ELDX will be at ogive jam and have 0.026" of EXTRA bearing surface in the neck.
With reloading, math and knowledge are your friend.
The OAL has more to do with the safe pressure peak limitation. Heavier bullets possess more inertia and will result an earlier peak pressure than lighter bullets of the same caliber. Less "quick" propellants allow you to increase the safe charge as the effective volume increase (as the bullet moves down the bore) faster than the powder oxidizes producing more gas.
I agree in the very beginning nobody told me about headspace or anything like that it was all Sammy spec stuff. The other thing is about saving money most of the time I spend more money for around and if you had to factor in the price of everything that us Reloaders invest. I remember just starting out and ordering about 90% of everything I needed off of Amazon and it was about $2300...and that wasn't everything...but I also made mistakes... I bought a single stage Lee press and then I bought a progressive press from hornaday. I got different dyes for each caliber for each press....So there was some money wasted but I use Lee with Lee and so forth
I wish I could find someone in my area (NC) that I can watch and learn basics
Told you I would come and watch it after JRB. Nice job and very truthful
Awesome, practical advice! Spot on, and some of the best reloading advice I have heard!
Wonderful - quick, informative, slick.
When you have the luxury of reloading, you don't save money - you shoot more. I've been reloading for for 35 years - mostly .38, .357, .40 in handguns and .308 and .223 in rifles. I thoroughly enjoy the task of reloading. At our shooting club when I first started, we had an older gentleman who was an armourer in the military. He "made me his pet load" for deer hunting. Loaded in a .308 he used a 3030 bullet NOT loaded to maximum velocity. I still use it when I hunt. It was very accurate ammunition.
The best thing about reloading is being able to load to your guns preferences. More accurate and effective shots
This video was very helpful THANK YOU. At the time of making this comment I have not made one bullet but I've done a lot of research. Watching your video reinsured me that I was heading the right direction. I was hoping to get started this weekend but now I realized that I have no way to check my scale so I will wait for the check scale weight to come in the mail and get started.
Best of Luck Bryant. I really like this hobby and hope others don't repeat some of the silly things I have done along the way.
I have a beam scale and a digital. I cross check them often and clean the beam scale often when I load.
Computer type can of air. Light brush. Never rely on digital 100%.
With COAL which is new to me trying it out i find the projectile stays in the chamber so adding a cleaning rod from the front to to keep the projectile in place is the right way
Looking to get in to reloading, both pistol (9, 40, and 10) and rifle (5.56, 270, various .30s, and 350) cases. For rifle, I am thinking of doing two press set-up assembly. First would be a single stage to decap, then tumble, then back to the single stage to neck size, following with a trimmer. Changing neck sizing dies to match caliber.
Second press would be a progressive set up to prime, charge, seat bullet, and crimp neck. Changing the turret with dedicated dies mounted for each particular caliber. Buying a new caliber components and turret set up each year until I have what I need to load for the rifles I have.
Would Lee's loadmaster progressive be acceptable for a budget minded, able to grow set-up?
RCBS says to cam into the shell holder an eighth of a turn for the sizing die and that if you back off the die the other way you may have clambering issues. They tell you to back off the sizing die if you are using a carbide sizing die. So if I hear you right you are saying I should back off the sizing die regardless of the type of die.. It is always disconcerting when one hears contradicting instructions.
It CAN be cheaper to reload certain rounds if you know where to source your projectiles. You don't have to use copper jacketed bullets for most pistol loads. I shoot IDPA and USPSA pistol competitions, and reloading using synthetic coated Blue Bullets, Gallant, and copper plated Berry's. I can reload 223 for $7.40 per 20 rounds using Barry's 55gr, and i can load 9mm for 1/2 the price of factory loads. 300 BLK subsonic Blue bullets are down right cheap compared to copper jacket projectiles, and are just as accurate at the short distances you shoot pistol/300 BLK. The loads are also more accurate, and are nicer to shoot than factory loads. So you CAN save money overall if your not buying Gucchi projectiles for everything.
Just subscribed, great channel. I've reloaded for decades but am always open to more (correct) knowledge! Thanks.
Thanks John! I hope you enjoy the content.
I always confirm data with atleast 3 different sources before using it.
Loaded thousands of rounds in multiple calibers including 5.7x28mm and still haven’t had an issue.
One of the biggest questions I have and questions I get asked all the time as a reloader. What is the best set of die brand to use?
Myself, I can't answer this question. My grandfather gave me my first dies. Pacific and RCBS are the only ones he ever used.
Now that I have tried venturing into long range I've bought Redding competition dies for my 300wm and Forester dies for my .223 and .243
Other than that I've never tried Horady, Lee or anyone else's dies.
Back in the 60's and 70's when I first started no one I knew used or would use Lee, Lyman or Hurters dies. Now I used a Hurters press for years and loved it. But now I use RCBS Rock chucker and Forster press depending on my purpose. All long range stuff goes on my Forster press. Hunting unless long range is on my RCBS.
If you have time can you please do a video on what dies are better or is there a difference in today's world?
Thank you,
Jeffrey O. Dohl
Hi Jeff, this playlist isn't necessarily brand specific, but it may answer some of the questions you had about it. Full Length vs Neck Sizing Dies - Does it Really Matter?: ruclips.net/p/PLXl7rMHW73NOphigW13PyC7dnxhW7_P8A
@Bolt Action Reloading I watched all three videos last night late. I really liked the looks and results of the Forster dies.
I don't have them anymore but, I was getting in the neighborhood of the same results with my Redding competition die set in 300wm. With them I was getting .365" group at 100 yards. I couldn't afford to buy competition dies for all my rifles.
Then I was offered more money than I had in them and sold the gun, dies and all brass. Stupid I know but unfortunately bills came first.
Thank you so much for getting back to me. Reloading for 51 years now and the last 8 years trying to get into accuracy and consistency. Tightest groups I can get and still be on spot at 500 or 1000 yards.
Love your work, determination and knowledge you project to the viewer. My hats off to you.. Well done.
Jeff D.
10 years later... still just starting. lol. i always wondered about those case gauges to check shoulder. it would be much faster. i dont know that your statement is correct. I thought they do check shoulder as well as overall length/headspace. I think ive read that you can have custom shoulder lengths made. find maximum size bump .002" measure and email. is this analysis correct? ive noticed without annealing shoulder sizing is ridiculously inconsistent. the brass springs back differently with every bullet. to those new guys out there that are trying to reasonably size brass... get a $50 yellow tank torch from home depot heat your brass and then size. measurements will drop .002" every time.
His statement is 100% correct. Since those case gauges have to accommodate headspace dimensions .007" off SAAMI dimensions they are of no use when it comes to resizing brass .002-.003" under your fired headspace dimension. First you have to use a comparator to determine your fired headspace dimension, and then you use the comparator to help you adjust your sizing die to achieve the optimum shoulder setback.
@@avarageguy8934 how much is the machine? im referring to just using a torch. i look at color of the brass to determine the time needed to anneal. not ideal but i havent found an alternative economical method of improving quality as of yet. 2000$ amp is way overpriced for a consistent induction heating source.
@@njgrplr2007 so they cant be custom made for your chamber?
Watch Eric Cortinas youtube vid on overannealing. Using bottled gas is fine, just have an accurate way to account for dwell time. I use metronomeonline at a 60 tempo after using 750 degree tempilaq to achieve their correct anneal. Be safe.
@@tomphillips2608 i think you may have missed the point of his video. erik was pointing out that to over anneal you would have to really melt brass before it loses consistent tensile strength. that said variations in annealing are not an issue. that said use your torch without concern about consistency. nothing wrong with consistent methods in fact its ideal, but again the results with variance were proven negligible. point being amp annealer is over kill for the price.
Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.
How are you liking that dillon press in the background??? I used my stimulus check wisely and upgraded my rcbs partner press to the dillon rl550c and went all out with all the little gadgets that goes along with it but ran out of primers and powder before I got to reload the first round on it. I'm almost to the point of pulling bullets from some of my 55gr 223 bulk ammo I've loaded just to get some powder to use my new press with some 77gr OTM bullets I got in. LOL
Excellent information
Thank you for making these videos
I think it’s easy to get lost in selection of components if you’re new, or if you’re starting on a new caliber. I’ve combed through advice on the internet (can’t think of a time I’ve solicited it) to pick up on some generalities of what other people have done, then balance it with what a primary source of information says- being a bullet or powder manufacturer. If I’m seeing that a lot of guys like x powder with y bullet loaded just over mid range of a book’s data, I’ll probably center my ladder loads there.
Guess I’m just saying there’s a place for internet advice, but like you said, it’s not taking literal load data. Besides, that guy isn’t shooting your gun where you live. Your mileage will vary.
Im dealing with a mag length for my overall length. not much wiggle room.
Sense Covid it cost me $12.50 for 50 rounds including lead, primer, powder in 2020. Now in 2021 it is close to $20 for 50 rounds. The dies cost me $90 for all sets. Thankfully I am handy with tools so I had to make a few basic items i needed.
Thanks for this info I’m totally new to reloading so new I haven’t even bought any equipment just getting in the research and vids like these are very helpful, I will check out your other vids before I make any decisions and any advice would be very helpful keep up the great work thanks again cheers Yogi Australia 🇦🇺 🤙🤙
I've been reloading for 21 years and it is cheaper to reload but I do shoot a lot more. I've gotten .30-06 rounds to 35 cents compared to $1.00 factory. I also reload for obsolete rounds. .577 Snider and .577-450 Martini Henry I can reload for less than $2.50/ round. Nobody makes .577 Snider anymore and I found 1 place than sells Martini Henry rounds for $10.00 each. Yes, you can save money (I have overall) so you can shoot more
thabk you for the video I just picled umy first press I am looking to mostly reload 450 bushmaster for hunting I can buy loaal ammonuition butI want t otry differnt projectiles to find my best deer round
Bullet seating is my number one problem now. I have lots of reloading manuals I have tried religiously to stay with the recommended COAL. My belief has been that COAL is directly related to the recommended powder charge, and that if you vary from that you could change chamber pressure? Apparently I'm wrong? Really confused and frustrated about this. I have been using the case gauges a d follow the due manufacturer instructions for setting up the die.
I don't understand the process for finding the headspace for my rifle
To measure the chamber,, split the neck of the brass ( Dremble tool ) then size the brass. Place the bullet in the cartridge long . Chamber it slowly,, and extract it carefully until you come up with a repeated measurement. On Armulite rifle mine has a long throat,,, so what limits my COL is mag length. Longer COL , more room in cartridge,, lower pressures. Do you agree ?
I'll use people's data from forums or whatever. Sometimes I find a bullet and powder combo that I can't find published data for, well, someone on a forum has loaded those up before. I try to find at least two different sources that agree, and even better if they provide chronograph data with it
I don’t know if it be for everyone but something I learned from my father 50 years. ago about reloading was when you’re working out a load try to work it to where you can never double charge cartridge it’s a safety thing lol
Great video. Thanks for the info.
Well done. Keep’m coming
I was at an indoor range where a guy was shooting his own reloads in his revolver. The report was loud, louder, super duper loud, super soft, i.e., his loads were all over the map. I got out of there and went to the other side of the glass to protect myself. Turns out he was well known for his inability to measure powder. Yikes.
As a California resident, I’m looking int re load ing out of necessity. Not (worried) about saving money aspect
Everyone's reason is a valid reason. Too many are lured in by saving money and then the equipment just sits there.
Ok. Does you best overall length for a Caliber depend on the length to the ogive, not coal, correct? And if so, you must use a comparator, correct?
Saving money reloading is not an absolute yes/no. It depends entirely on how much you reload. If you reload (and shoot) a lot, as I do, you spread the cost of the equipment over a large number of rounds. In the short term, you will be in the hole in terms of overall cost, and you WILL save money in the long run. Especially if you just load common loads for general shooting and aren't out to set accuracy records.
Very true. I shoot a lot of 6.5 prc. The press and all the tools will pay for themselves in less than 2 years just reloading 1 caliber
I take my old K31 Swiss with a scope on it. Put a cartridge in it and get sub-MOA groups.
I never seen a problem in increasing COAL.
It's decreasing or making shorter than the published info when you can create pressure issues.
A question related to this. Some 9mm load data. Is 1.24, 1.45 and even as long as 1.66.
How do I use said data. When I can't load that long for magazines length? Can you reduce charge by factor (x) and use said combination of projectile/powder safely?
Well done, Sir!
Since I don't own a "precision" rifle, the book data is good enough for me.
All my handloads shoot more accurately than factory ammo.
True: Reloading costs more round for round than factory ammo.
It is what it is.
Be well!
Excellent advise. Other mistakes:
Don't use your bodies loaded ammo and don't give as gift to anyone your own loaded ammo. You are no Remington or Federal ammo making company.
Don't start with a progressive press and don't make thousands of rounds that you may end up to undo.
Decide if you are loading for hunting or precision target shooting because the levels of precisions are different and you need different grade of tools.
Safety don'ts: Never reload without wearing your safety glasses. Don't reload when you are tired. Don't reload when you are in rush and you need some ammo to take to the range.
With very few published exceptions, start off with lowest loads. Many manuals played one upmanship games so there have been many really scary top loads. Develop a good relationship with a scale and case trimmer. Speedy re loads can come after you confidently put five rounds through one hole in paper at 100 yds. Dirt clods don’t count until much later!
The more reloading manuals the better in my 6 years into reloading.
I compare alot and have made up some loads too,but after careful research in my "library" and online.
Hornady and the rest show no load data for 160 .308 projectiles for .30-'06,no problem,5 gr bullet weight difference is nothing considering bullets vary by weight so much in a batch.
@@dolphincliffs8864 check out Nosler’s online manual. In their tests only about one in three best loads by we’re in top velocity brackets. Playing mix and match could be dangerous, so stick with the newest manual available. Many canister grade powders have been manufactured off shore in the last few years.
@@davekoenig9935 I agree,cross sectional density,projectile weight etc were taken into consideration. These .30-30 bullets work just fine in an '06. 300yds 10" target.
Believe me I was very cautious.
I made someone else test them.
They work well,no issues.
@@dolphincliffs8864 Not really! Not unless you score a can of H 4895 and make reduced loads, spitting bullets within their working range, and more importantly, how fast it spins. Speer pulled 338 x 275 gr. Semi Spitzers, due to them blowing up in Elk. Some animals were wounded this way out at 500 yds. The spin velocity was the culprit as the bullets had slowed way down. Ray Speer told me, his bullets retained 92% of their angular velocity at extreme ranges, which is why they tested every bullet’s expansion in wet lap bales from the local paper mill at 500 yds. Yet this missed the problems with their vaunted 4.0+ BC, 275’s made for Win. 338 Mags. 338 K T’s over revved them to where they hit bones and blew to pieces around ten inches in. 170 gr. 30-30 JFP’s. will do the same around 26-2700 fps. They become varmint bullets, even at very long ranges. Bullet fragments are no fun to bite into at dinner.
I have been reloading for more than 40 years. My mantra to people interested in reloading is, "You can spend hundreds of dollars to load thousands of dollars of ammo or you can spend thousands of dollars to load hundreds of dollars of ammo." I can load ammo cans of blasting ammo for range fun relatively cheaply by buying in bulk, not getting caught up in every shiny new reloading toy, and having inventory when times are bad for component availability. If your shooting for money or food you can spend a bunch of money getting an accuracy edge over mass produced ammo. If you know where you want reloading to take you it is smart to investigate what is out there and get advice from people that have the same strategy you are looking at reloading for. I couldn't be happy loading 10 cartridges to go on an annual hunt and let expensive gear sit in a safe for 51 weeks. I prefer to hit the range for a few hours a week which makes reloading extremely cost effective.
Bud, great video, much appreciated. Subbed, looking forward to checking out your other videos.
#6 Follow the bobbing hand! you can't go wrong
Great list, with my experience I agree with this list.
Thanks Logan, Good to see you in the comments section!
On #2 is this true for semi auto and bolt guns? I've read you should always full length resize for AR and similar
HI NK, for a AR bumping the shoulder back .003" should function fine. Sizing more than this isn't going to gain you anything and this is still a FL size.
@@BoltActionReloading thanks for the response!
having head/case separation on .300winmag Hornady cases. My suspicion is we should not fully resize the whole case and only do a neck size? how much, care to comment?
I absolutely hate when someone talks about whether or not you save money reloading because no matter which side of the spectrum they are on, they always get it wrong. The ONLY way to determine whether or not you are saving money is to look at it on a per round cost…period. Sure, you’ll shoot more because you have more ammo, but that is a direct result of the cost savings per round. If you simply look at it from a cost savings per round, over time you absolutely will be saving money…per round. You may spend the same amount of money, or maybe even more money, because you enjoy the reloading hobby but you get more from the dollar spent.
Great info & perspective. Appreciate your channel.
With the price of ammunition the way it is now reloading would be cheaper if you have all the components before the problems started and withthat said now is not the time to get into reloading as everything is out of stock right now
Exactly, it's always an easy decision if you knew the future.
Appreciate the content you are putting out. When using shorter/lighter projectiles for the caliber (ie 123 gr 6.5 CM) and trying to achieve a .020" jump to the lands, the projectile is not seated deep enough to engage the full length of case neck. What is your thought on the minimal amount of neck engagement when trying to minimize jump? Is it generally acceptable to seat with less contact between the projectile/neck by some percentage of case neck length? Thanks for sharing any opinions.
Good video - just asking - the thumbnail shows gas leaking around a primer. Did you do a video to cover this?
ruclips.net/video/9nd44eJX1Eg/видео.html
I watched this because there was a coax press and thought I was going to get some nugett of wisdom .... it was a good video though , new loaders heed the advice
I’ve never seen a video on this but I assume there’s one out there I’m curious what would happen if you took 10 factory ammo five set to Sammy‘s and pull 5 bullet from factory ammo resize and set your specific rifle lands to see the improvement just over the correct cartridge overall length for your specific rifle, because that would be the same powder same primer the only difference is the cartridge overall length me know if you do it I’d love to see
Short and to the point. You would have made can excellent military instructor.
I’m thinking about getting into reloading and would be interested in knowing what equipment is needed?
Hi Mj, try checking out this playlist and don't hesitate to ask questions. Starting Reloading - Equipment: ruclips.net/p/PLXl7rMHW73NPuwsykAr9sWCRShsN6sjIB
@@BoltActionReloading thank you
When sizing the case I only neck size so the shoulder does not ge pushed back,mainly in the smaller 224 rounds. Thoughts ?
Hi John, You are eventually going to have chambering issues. Many folks have great accuracy just pushing the shoulder back about .002". This will allow the chambering to be smooth and consistent every reload.
So I have a question about bumping the shoulder.. so I've been reloading some new lapua brass and brand new it's about 5 thousands less then after firing in my rifle. Now after I load a new case and check it again it grows about 10 thousandths.. I'm still pretty new so am I dumb for checking it after it's been loaded?
Sorry, where specifically in the process is the shoulder growing? Is it growing after resizing? If so I'd guess you're maybe working the neck more than you need to be and that's what's drawing the shoulder forward.
As for what the common sense realist says, there's two schools of thought:
He seems to subscribe to the school of don't bump: after firing, the theory is that the shell comes out an exact match for your chamber, but in reality it comes out an exact match for your hot chamber rather than your cold chamber. I've heard it said, I don't remember if it was Panhandle Reloading Eric Cortina or F class John, that “having a round that won't eject is a stupid reason to lose a match!”: they all bump and full length resize.
If you make a lot of ammo and majority of the components yourself it can get really cheap though, and you can do so much shooting.
Great info, thanks for sharing