Thank you for all the Clodbuster content. I never owned a Clodbuster back in the day but always wanted one. I did own an RC10 and, many years later, a Kyosho Mad Force. I have been away from RC for years and didn't know the Clodbuster was still being produced along with many available upgrades. Thanks to your content, I am going to start building one in a few months and get every aluminum and carbon fiber upgrade i can in one build along with upgraded electronics, wheels/tires, hardware, and anything else i am able to do.
Someone in troop 94 had the clod buster we used to bring them on camp outs quite often and charge the batts in the trucks. A lot of fun not gonna day names he ran over my lunchbox with it was hilarious 😂. Ahhh the good olde days.
FS GT-5 tx will facilitate a crawler steering mode that will allow front steer, opposite steering front and rear and same steer that will turn both front and rear in the same direction for crab mode.
What a creation, Gav! It looks superb, that suspension is now so supple - looks to ride a lot nicer. The close up jump in the garden was awesome! Love this project, mate! :)
You get a like because not only did you show a test run after the upgrade but you have FPV..!! You sir know how to make a cool RUclips video unlike the others that show a upgrade but never show us a test run
As David said you could link the servos via Y harness and have 1:1 steering.... But just thought, with a multi channel computer radio you could have both opposite steering (tight turns) AND parallel steering for crabbing! You could also have custom mixes and curves between channels so that the amount of rear builds at a different rate to the front. (Think mixing some down elevator when deploying flaps on a plane)
True , I'm at the point trying to figure out what kind of axel mounts I want for my servos and how I want to steer the rear, was thinking of the (bta) version of servo mounts , but I don't know . Any suggestions would be most appreciated, currently I have a bone stock Clod Buster black edition.
So happy you got rid of those plain steel can Tamiya motors and you put better speed control and much better motors Tamiya are so annoying they been using those plain steel can motors for 40 years. The clod buster looks superb now
I remember seeing these trucks for sale in the early 1990s in my local Toys “R” Us as kids never could afford one always wanted one now I think it might be time to add one to my collection.
The BTA steering kit will help a lot. I would advise locking the rear, it will help keep you from tipping over at high speed. Also, remove you steering hubs and grind off the little posts that limit the steering and take a few mils off of the inside of the arm where it hits the axle. That will increase your steering throw.
My only thing about the chassis is it sit way to high for my liking I would prefer a lower COG, looks strange with the body so high up. But I love the build!!!
Shave the inner part of the knucks they have molded in bump stops that you want to get rid of and that will greatly improve your turn radius. Also I believe the chassis is sitting higher than it was intended to.
Wow beautiful project, the carbon chassis looks amazing , I really don’t like the Tamiya cheap hard plastic chassis this upgrade makes it look so classy well done 👍🏻
I have some more carbon mod parts coming so I’ll make another video when I receive them. I don’t think my 6 channel trans will arrive anytime soon unfortunately as it’s coming from China but once it does I’ll do another update
looks really cool and now you have so many spare parts you may as well build another :) just watch that rear tailgate as you can rip them off riding around on them like that.. I damage mine doing just this..
Great video. I raced clods way back in early 1990-1991. I had the ESP Clodzilla chassis till 1999. I sold but wish I kept it. I still have my original 1988 Clod. I did pick up two Back Edition Clods. I'll build one. May have to do a Clod like your doing. Wish they raced them around here.
Planning on building my first Claude soon what are some upgrade you would recommend to do first. I’m sure I’ll end up with a chassis at some point but I definitely want to widen it a little bit enjoy it for a bit but what would you suggest for a first time owner
Wow!!!! Bumpers and axel mounted servos!!! Please send the details of who made those! I only haven't gone that route as i don't want to lose the bumpers.
It looked like a big difference in the suspension from the last video, and it was hard to tell the power on the video but it looked to be an improvement. If you can get a lexan/poly body for it that might hold up better. I’m sure those Kyosho motors would have turned it into a beast . Cool video.
Brilliant build Gav! Need to get a Clod one day 😀 Btw take a look at the JConcepts Regulator and ACRC Chaos chassis for the Clod, they are very well regarded by the racing crowd on the US.
Awesome build. I'm currently in the process of building mine and will be using the same ESC and Servos. Did you use a external BEC or just the internal one on the ESC?
Chassis came from www.ukmonsters.co.uk/clodshop/clodshop.html Drop Ryan an email with all questions are you have many options available to you. email: ryancoombes@virginmedia.com and say hi from me if you contact him.
What are your thoughts on diff upgrades, lock or limited? Can't quite bring myself to diy lock mine up! Ideally a limited slip ball diff I guess? Any easily available to UK recommendations very welcome if you have any. Thanks
3S with those mega monster motors? I'm not sure it's a good idea. They're 550 cans but 3S fully charged is over 12V, which is probably too much. And as someone already pointed out, one of the axle is gonna go faster than the other one. Kyosho mad a reverse 360 monster motor to use on the USA-1 or clod.
The product quality is fantastic so no issues on that front. I would really love to get the top of the line Race Chassis kit on the show for an upgrade video but unfortunately its out of stock and I don't think he's making anymore :( I love my Razer 2.1 and it looks stunning on the truck, just make sure you find some good shocks to go with it that fit correctly and match the length spec.
put 2 castle maba motor kits in it and it will fly ! ive cant find this chassis anywhere in the usa and i WANT it !! i put Mud Slingers 40 Series tires , 2 castle SIDEWINDER 4 4X4 MT EDITION set ups , BOG HOG - MEGA TRUCK BODY , integy
Are those motors fixed endbells? If they are, you can't use one that is reversed. The timing will be something like -24 degrees. Unless the clod used both motors spinning the same direction. I can't remember.
@@RCKickschannel Hi Gavin, the front motor in the clod runs in reverse when you are going forwards, effectively making the timing retarded instead of advanced. Standard RS540 motors have 0 degree timing so this is no issue. You can check this, just hook a battery straight up to the motor wires using the standard polarity. Red>Yellow and Black>Green (Tamiya 540) Mod motors are advanced by rotating the endbell counter-clockwise from the centre(moves the brush positions to energise the winding earlier). You can get around this if the motor has no limiting tab(or the tab is easily trimmed off) for the timing adjustment by turning the endbell in the opposite direction(clockwise) from 0 degrees to match the rear motors' advancement. If those Mega Motors have timing advancement from stock, what will happen is high current draw as the advanced motor at the rear tries to rev higher and push the "retarded" motor up to speed, while the retarded motor tries to slow down the advanced motor. This may not be massively noticeable at first as the front of the truck will unload on acceleration and allow the front motor to rev up easier, however it will hold back top speed a bit and decrease battery life> I have 4 clods, a bullhead and 2 WR-01 dagger/twin detonators. they all have the same issue. Reverse timing the front motor works a treat. 2x Super Stock RZ's in a WR-01 is a hoot. Note: This cannot be done on racing "stock" brushed motors as the motor can has large flats on the sides deliberately to make this impossible.
@David Cotter Hi David, you can hook them up and run them, but the motor timing is dependent on the direction of rotation. I learned this the hard way when a LHS who specialised in racing and knew little about "Toys" like the Clod sold me two team brood epic 27 pro stock motors (fixed timing), it melted my MSC down after a few runs, and both motors were cooking hot, not to mention the short runtime and hot battery Standard rotation direction for Stock motors is CCW at the pinion end of the shaft, CW at the brush/endbell. If you look at a fixed timing stock motor(with flats on the can-epic 27 etc) axially from the endbell, the brush hoods are rotated 24 degrees CCW(into the direction of rotation) from perpendicular to the magnets(Zero degrees) - this advances the energisation of the windings in relation to the magnets. In order to match the timing on a motor running reverse polarity (running CW at the pinion/CCW at the brush end) the brush hood positions would need to be rotated 24 degrees CW from perpendicular to the magnets, Unfortunately due to the flats locking the endbell position, the angle on stock motors is always 24 degrees CCW, so turning the endbell 180 degrees does nothing, and reversing the polarity leaves you with the motor turning in the required direction, but 24 degrees retarded. Most round can adjustable timing motors can be reverse polarity timed, it usually just requires the plastic tab that limits the timing position to be trimmed off, the clamping ring inside the motor(where the endbell screws thread into) to be flipped (or it misses the locking tabs inside the can) and the endbell to be turned CW by the same amount of degrees that the other, standard rotation motor is advanced CCW. Works a treat on a pair of Tamiya Super Stock RZ's, my favourite brushed motors, should work on dirt tuned etc also. Hope this helps, it's not the kind of info easily found on forums.
Looks much more in scale to a real full monster truck, but to me it looks odd/silly with the main chassis rods that are thin then those front and rear gearboxes which are huge blocks of plastic! just my opinion
Honestly I don’t like this carbon chassis, looks more like crawler than a clod one. Seeing no vertical shocks coming from axles on a monster truck is just weird. Also the fact that under compression the wheelbase extends so much. Also what’s with this caster? Seems like top links are too long or at a wrong angle. Maybe it drives better but I wouldn’t get it for my clod.
chassis costs more then the truck itself.. 🤦♂️ could probably get the same results from converting a rock crawler and put this body on it, or use the axle grave digger chassis, would cost half the price.
As someone who gets really attached to his rc, the way you talk about selling them nonchalantly is depressing. I do miles of research before a purchase, and I keep them forever. You trade them out like mobile phones. To each their own, but your play style depresses me.
@@RCKickschannel does it suck? I’m not dissing you in any way. I’m curious. Me personally I’d rather forego the money and enjoy the hobby. Is it true what they say about turning your hobby into your job? Does it diminish the experience? I mean you no disrespect. I have enough RC to make my own channel, and I’m planning on starting a miniZ racing league where I live. I could make content for years…. But is it worth it?
Thank you for all the Clodbuster content. I never owned a Clodbuster back in the day but always wanted one. I did own an RC10 and, many years later, a Kyosho Mad Force. I have been away from RC for years and didn't know the Clodbuster was still being produced along with many available upgrades. Thanks to your content, I am going to start building one in a few months and get every aluminum and carbon fiber upgrade i can in one build along with upgraded electronics, wheels/tires, hardware, and anything else i am able to do.
You will have fun as that’s a great project. It can get expensive as you have so many upgrade options available but it will be fun.
Someone in troop 94 had the clod buster we used to bring them on camp outs quite often and charge the batts in the trucks. A lot of fun not gonna day names he ran over my lunchbox with it was hilarious 😂. Ahhh the good olde days.
Could use a y connector and connect up both servos , they would work at the same time .
was about to say the same thing, thats exacttly what i did on my clod for 4x4x4, cost like 1 bux
Yep..just done that on mine. Steering so well with double servos and y lead.
FS GT-5 tx will facilitate a crawler steering mode that will allow front steer, opposite steering front and rear and same steer that will turn both front and rear in the same direction for crab mode.
This is insane!! I JUST watched the original build vid, and loved it, but this is nuts!
The Clod looks awesome! I can tell you are really enjoying its new transformation, great job Gavin!
What a creation, Gav! It looks superb, that suspension is now so supple - looks to ride a lot nicer. The close up jump in the garden was awesome! Love this project, mate! :)
Thanks a ton Mark! I'm having fun with it and I have a few more mods to come. I can recommend the Clod 100% if you have space for it lol.
Love it! Ripe for a wheelie bar. The way it lifts it's inside front is hilariously good
Totally agree! LOL
You get a like because not only did you show a test run after the upgrade but you have FPV..!! You sir know how to make a cool RUclips video unlike the others that show a upgrade but never show us a test run
Man this came out WICKED Awsome. Looks great tons of tourqe. Good job.👏👏👍😎Massachusetts.
Thanks a lot Gavin! Now i want a Super Clod.. damn you man... :)
Most welcome Cosmo lol 👍🏻
That's such a sweet truck . I had one and sold it . Still have the original . This makes me want a another one to play around with.
I have to agree, its a load of fun but it can get expensive fast, as you have so many options available.
Is there a link for the clod shop mate
Man you arent helping me keep my Black Special stock!!!!!
Nice work!
As David said you could link the servos via Y harness and have 1:1 steering.... But just thought, with a multi channel computer radio you could have both opposite steering (tight turns) AND parallel steering for crabbing! You could also have custom mixes and curves between channels so that the amount of rear builds at a different rate to the front.
(Think mixing some down elevator when deploying flaps on a plane)
True , I'm at the point trying to figure out what kind of axel mounts I want for my servos and how I want to steer the rear, was thinking of the (bta) version of servo mounts , but I don't know . Any suggestions would be most appreciated, currently I have a bone stock Clod Buster black edition.
www.ukmonsters.co.uk/clodshop/clodshop.html
@@dave691974 JConcets just realeased a BTA kit that is designed for the stock setup.
That is beautiful!!! I Must own one!!
Love how it looks and handles
So happy you got rid of those plain steel can Tamiya motors and you put better speed control and much better motors
Tamiya are so annoying they been using those plain steel can motors for 40 years.
The clod buster looks superb now
Absolutely love it!
Looks awesome!
That chassis is pretty awesome. Alot of cash but what a Clod you have now! 😀👍🏼
I remember seeing these trucks for sale in the early 1990s in my local Toys “R” Us as kids never could afford one always wanted one now I think it might be time to add one to my collection.
These are great fun for sure.
The BTA steering kit will help a lot. I would advise locking the rear, it will help keep you from tipping over at high speed. Also, remove you steering hubs and grind off the little posts that limit the steering and take a few mils off of the inside of the arm where it hits the axle. That will increase your steering throw.
That's pretty cool upgrade, be good when you get new radio. 👍
Looking good Gavin.
My only thing about the chassis is it sit way to high for my liking I would prefer a lower COG, looks strange with the body so high up. But I love the build!!!
That's an awesome looking truck. The chassis looks like a bomb disposal robot! lol!
Haha I shouldn’t have started watching this playlist… now I need one of these 😂❤️
LOL, things do get a bit OTT for sure lol.
@@RCKickschannel hahahaha 😊❤️
Upgrades Look Nice 😎👍🏻 Thats One Nice Truck now 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
I did enjoy that! Thanks👍
Magic 👍
Shave the inner part of the knucks they have molded in bump stops that you want to get rid of and that will greatly improve your turn radius. Also I believe the chassis is sitting higher than it was intended to.
Will do and yes the chassis needs shorted shocks or I need to mod the current set.
You definitely have to mount a wheely bar on These remote control trucks are you will tear up the back bumper
Really like what you are doing with this kit. I am also looking fwd to the Top Cat build.
Coming soon!
@@RCKickschannel Great!
Needs a Wheelie Bar at the back it’s coming up high on acceleration, I love your determination on this modded clod buster it’s a great project
Wow beautiful project, the carbon chassis looks amazing , I really don’t like the Tamiya cheap hard plastic chassis this upgrade makes it look so classy well done 👍🏻
oh my goodness, Perfect fit and looking unbelevable. Pleace make more of this Xtreme Tamija bilds
I have some more carbon mod parts coming so I’ll make another video when I receive them. I don’t think my 6 channel trans will arrive anytime soon unfortunately as it’s coming from China but once it does I’ll do another update
looks really cool and now you have so many spare parts you may as well build another :) just watch that rear tailgate as you can rip them off riding around on them like that.. I damage mine doing just this..
Great video. I raced clods way back in early 1990-1991. I had the ESP Clodzilla chassis till 1999. I sold but wish I kept it. I still have my original 1988 Clod. I did pick up two Back Edition Clods. I'll build one. May have to do a Clod like your doing. Wish they raced them around here.
I really like the Clod, it’s great fun. When I purchased it I wasn’t that fussed to be honest but after building and running it, it’s epic.
It’s insane what you can do with a Clodbuster.
Yep the options are endless
Awesome truck there ! That chassis is mental ! I’ve just bought a bullhead and looking for upgrade advice as I don’t want it stock ?
Looks amazing
Planning on building my first Claude soon what are some upgrade you would recommend to do first. I’m sure I’ll end up with a chassis at some point but I definitely want to widen it a little bit enjoy it for a bit but what would you suggest for a first time owner
Steering upgrade is always first lol.
Is there any way to fit the motors in the chassis with drive shafts? Also can the servos be mounted in a more hidden area?
I will be upgrading the servo location in the next Clod video in 7-10 days so stay tuned.
Wow!!!! Bumpers and axel mounted servos!!! Please send the details of who made those! I only haven't gone that route as i don't want to lose the bumpers.
The guy who made them for me is in the video. If you look him up on Facebook you can send him a message.
It looked like a big difference in the suspension from the last video, and it was hard to tell the power on the video but it looked to be an improvement. If you can get a lexan/poly body for it that might hold up better. I’m sure those Kyosho motors would have turned it into a beast . Cool video.
Perfect 👌
Brilliant build Gav! Need to get a Clod one day 😀
Btw take a look at the JConcepts Regulator and ACRC Chaos chassis for the Clod, they are very well regarded by the racing crowd on the US.
Awesome build. I'm currently in the process of building mine and will be using the same ESC and Servos. Did you use a external BEC or just the internal one on the ESC?
The one on the ESC
What’s the parts list for this? I have to have it sent to the states not sure what to order
Chassis came from www.ukmonsters.co.uk/clodshop/clodshop.html Drop Ryan an email with all questions are you have many options available to you. email: ryancoombes@virginmedia.com and say hi from me if you contact him.
@@RCKickschannel oh ok great thanks so much!!
Nice.
What are your thoughts on diff upgrades, lock or limited? Can't quite bring myself to diy lock mine up! Ideally a limited slip ball diff I guess? Any easily available to UK recommendations very welcome if you have any. Thanks
Gavin what are using to fill in the holes? Great video series! Well done.
On the body? Car filler.
Where can I buy this chassis?
Links should be in the video description
Where is this chassis available.my project is hopeless without it ,I’m ready to give up.
Clod shop
I would like one of these but I can’t help think it would be a money pit!
how come the springs are missing off the one shocks?
Sorry can’t remember now, it was ages ago.
Ace.
3S with those mega monster motors? I'm not sure it's a good idea. They're 550 cans but 3S fully charged is over 12V, which is probably too much. And as someone already pointed out, one of the axle is gonna go faster than the other one. Kyosho mad a reverse 360 monster motor to use on the USA-1 or clod.
Yep I’ve been on the lookout for a Mega reversed. New one on eBay but it’s £££ over my budget.
How do you like the chassis so far?
Thinking of getting the Razor 2.1 for my Clod
The product quality is fantastic so no issues on that front. I would really love to get the top of the line Race Chassis kit on the show for an upgrade video but unfortunately its out of stock and I don't think he's making anymore :( I love my Razer 2.1 and it looks stunning on the truck, just make sure you find some good shocks to go with it that fit correctly and match the length spec.
Thanks! What length shocks are you using? I saw it uses 80-100mm shocks
put 2 castle maba motor kits in it and it will fly ! ive cant find this chassis anywhere in the usa and i WANT it !! i put Mud Slingers 40 Series tires , 2 castle SIDEWINDER 4 4X4 MT EDITION set ups , BOG HOG - MEGA TRUCK BODY , integy
can i install the servo mounts on the original chassis?
Yep I think so.
Could someone tell me the exact servos he's using in the clod, plz
I think those are Dsservo 25kg, you can find them on banggood
Yep
Awesome what size shocks did you order bud
I think I used some random Schumacher racing shocks I had already.
👍
Nice video buddy! Where do you buy that chassis at? Thanks
Details are in the video and the video description 👍🏻
Are those motors fixed endbells? If they are, you can't use one that is reversed. The timing will be something like -24 degrees. Unless the clod used both motors spinning the same direction. I can't remember.
Yep the motors run in the same direction.
@@RCKickschannel Hi Gavin, the front motor in the clod runs in reverse when you are going forwards, effectively making the timing retarded instead of advanced. Standard RS540 motors have 0 degree timing so this is no issue.
You can check this, just hook a battery straight up to the motor wires using the standard polarity. Red>Yellow and Black>Green (Tamiya 540)
Mod motors are advanced by rotating the endbell counter-clockwise from the centre(moves the brush positions to energise the winding earlier).
You can get around this if the motor has no limiting tab(or the tab is easily trimmed off) for the timing adjustment by turning the endbell in the opposite direction(clockwise) from 0 degrees to match the rear motors' advancement.
If those Mega Motors have timing advancement from stock, what will happen is high current draw as the advanced motor at the rear tries to rev higher and push the "retarded" motor up to speed, while the retarded motor tries to slow down the advanced motor.
This may not be massively noticeable at first as the front of the truck will unload on acceleration and allow the front motor to rev up easier, however it will hold back top speed a bit and decrease battery life>
I have 4 clods, a bullhead and 2 WR-01 dagger/twin detonators.
they all have the same issue. Reverse timing the front motor works a treat.
2x Super Stock RZ's in a WR-01 is a hoot.
Note: This cannot be done on racing "stock" brushed motors as the motor can has large flats on the sides deliberately to make this impossible.
@@leemollison7508 I was going to try 2 Trinity p2k's , your saying they won't work? Can't I just reverse the polarity of the front one?
@David Cotter Hi David, you can hook them up and run them, but the motor timing is dependent on the direction of rotation. I learned this the hard way when a LHS who specialised in racing and knew little about "Toys" like the Clod sold me two team brood epic 27 pro stock motors (fixed timing), it melted my MSC down after a few runs, and both motors were cooking hot, not to mention the short runtime and hot battery
Standard rotation direction for Stock motors is CCW at the pinion end of the shaft, CW at the brush/endbell.
If you look at a fixed timing stock motor(with flats on the can-epic 27 etc) axially from the endbell, the brush hoods are rotated 24 degrees CCW(into the direction of rotation) from perpendicular to the magnets(Zero degrees) - this advances the energisation of the windings in relation to the magnets.
In order to match the timing on a motor running reverse polarity (running CW at the pinion/CCW at the brush end) the brush hood positions would need to be rotated 24 degrees CW from perpendicular to the magnets, Unfortunately due to the flats locking the endbell position, the angle on stock motors is always 24 degrees CCW, so turning the endbell 180 degrees does nothing, and reversing the polarity leaves you with the motor turning in the required direction, but 24 degrees retarded. Most round can adjustable timing motors can be reverse polarity timed, it usually just requires the plastic tab that limits the timing position to be trimmed off, the clamping ring inside the motor(where the endbell screws thread into) to be flipped (or it misses the locking tabs inside the can) and the endbell to be turned CW by the same amount of degrees that the other, standard rotation motor is advanced CCW. Works a treat on a pair of Tamiya Super Stock RZ's, my favourite brushed motors, should work on dirt tuned etc also. Hope this helps, it's not the kind of info easily found on forums.
@@leemollison7508 ok thanks, so I need round can motors, that I can rotate the endbell ?
how much would the super clod cost in south Africa??
Check your local RC online shops or buy & sell sites.
@@RCKickschannel keep up the excellent work
Bad ass
Please get wheelie bars.
I hope to swap out the chassis soon for an upgrade.
Looks much more in scale to a real full monster truck, but to me it looks odd/silly with the main chassis rods that are thin then those front and rear gearboxes which are huge blocks of plastic! just my opinion
Hi there, from Texas.. If you sell it, How much would you want for it?
What the chassis or the full clod?
Honestly I don’t like this carbon chassis, looks more like crawler than a clod one. Seeing no vertical shocks coming from axles on a monster truck is just weird. Also the fact that under compression the wheelbase extends so much. Also what’s with this caster? Seems like top links are too long or at a wrong angle. Maybe it drives better but I wouldn’t get it for my clod.
Shocks are a bit too long for the chassis, its lifting the truck too high.
Looks not scale cause the links are not parallel to the ground
Can u build me 1 just like that?
Sorry no but it’s super easy to do as the Clod shop chassis comes built.
You need a wheelie bar.
Decals cover holes with less work. :-)
Nope. But great idea
chassis costs more then the truck itself.. 🤦♂️ could probably get the same results from converting a rock crawler and put this body on it, or use the axle grave digger chassis, would cost half the price.
Chassis is $70.00 less than the Clod kit. Yep you could do a load of different things to make a Monster truck.
Smack to mouch nasty very nasty
love the vids but im unsubscribing if you dont learn the term is 'DAMPER' not "dampener" . loads of love .
As someone who gets really attached to his rc, the way you talk about selling them nonchalantly is depressing. I do miles of research before a purchase, and I keep them forever. You trade them out like mobile phones. To each their own, but your play style depresses me.
You forget one thing, this is my job as well as my hobby, I have to fund continual content for the channel.
@@RCKickschannel does it suck? I’m not dissing you in any way. I’m curious. Me personally I’d rather forego the money and enjoy the hobby. Is it true what they say about turning your hobby into your job? Does it diminish the experience? I mean you no disrespect. I have enough RC to make my own channel, and I’m planning on starting a miniZ racing league where I live. I could make content for years…. But is it worth it?
Nice