I'm continually amazed at the ingenuity, resourcefulness and generosity of the machinists presented and presenting on RUclips. It is edifying and encouraging instruction in the great potential of mankind. I really like this series of shop visits with those who might never be known, nor their knowledge shared if it were not for videos like yours. Thank you.
See this is exactly what I love about the machining community, you are never at a loss for good ideas. Plus if you can't figure it out, just say something and someone will have a great answer or a really good idea.
Dale, Awesome Idea to visit home shops and bring great solutions to the greater community. The more I do, the less I know, the more I have to solve. It's a wonderful circle of learning and it's simple solutions like Peter's that inspire more doing....Take Care
From one Peter to another Great Job and Fixture Mahalo for sharing and if you think midwest humidity is bad try being on the tradewind side of the North Pacific I call it Maui Cancer and it can happen over night Mahalo Dale for doing this as a way of extending your vacation
Yes I made one of these just like his shown for a pedestal grinder and to balance them you drill out one half of each washer and adjust the lite towards the heavy--worked great.. But for the surface grinding wheels it was a bit narrow so I will make another wider one and use rollers however just be aware you can simply mill a .255 slot for instance with a regular cutter and set the rollers down in there or jb weld them. Using the ball end mill as if to match the rods --not that good.. to level it just put a ground block on top and place a ball bearing and adjust the things till the ball stays put--works great.. to balance the wheels you can use small weights of various types even washers or half of washers and use the jb weld up near the blotter--works perfect. Let the wheel settle and mark a line on top of the wheel showing "lite"--place the weights only there with masking tape.. stay a bit shy on the weight because of the jb weld--when you get it good NOT OVERWEIGHT--remove the masking tape and apply the jb weld and stick the items on WORKS GREAT BUT SOUNDS FUNNY--it really isnt.. dont us jb KWIK--it does not give you enough working time. One drawback is you must balance the wheel/wheels and let it sit for a day--you cannot use this method to balance and instantly put the wheel back on and grind.. Also note the balancing arbor--I make and sell them..
I do the balancers the same way using jb in the groove-and the three leveling screws and to level put a ground item on top of the rails then place a 1 inch or so ball bearing on top and adjust till it is stable. the other thing I do is I use jb weld on the side of the wheel to cure on various weights such as half washers even carbide rock tumbler grit. Unless a hub is a balancing hub I strictly use that system only and no--nothing will fly off to blind a person at all. pretty much only that method can be used for a pedestal grinder also which have no way to balance them--stick a rod in and balance it the normal way let cure and put the wheel or wheels back on you will not even be able to tell its running.
Yes I use way lube to coat all the exposed metal on my machines and Starrett instrument oil for tooling. I do dress the wheels before and after balancing.
I have a cad data base and document where I am drawing up and documenting the various tapers for surface grinders and even other machine tools. For most manual surface grinders its 3 inches per foot--with possible different sizes. However some are in fact unusual angles. DO YOU POSSIBLY KNOW TO CONFIRM THE TAPER PER FOOT OR ANGLE OF THE BROWN AND SHARP YOU MENTIONED? thanks
actually i had to look at the date because I thought you had seen mine and made one however they are based on the same principle. I MADE MINE OUT OF WOOD.. with smaller drill rod-actually i bought a long screwdriver and cut the shaft off.
Hey Pete, nice work on the balancer...great ideas about using the different screwed in hardware for a finer balance. Dale, have you made one of those balancers yet? I've just started going through your videos and have not come across one yet.
While talking about rust prevention in Arkansas, I heard Peter mention what sounded like "Vatra #2" as a good rust preventative. Forgive my less than optimal hearing, but could you clarify what he said he uses? And thanks for a great video!
Dale I have a question I've been pondering. Shipping to the Islands is the largest single expense for any hobbyist that uses tools and machines. I'm part of a Maker space and we are moving into a new larger facility and I will finally have some space for doing layout and measurement. I'm looking into getting a surface plate to do this but the shipping would cost way more then the plate. I'm considering going to the local grave monument supplier and purchasing a large stone 2'x 2' x 4" or 6" and having him put a high polish on it I know it won' t be Measurement grade but it would be stable and flat There is a Military grade Optics group here for the telescopes so I could probably have it checked and maybe adjusted as much as I know they have the only surface plate here on Maui Your thoughts as well as your viewers Please and Mahalo from a relocated Midwesterner
Distance from the center affects the force, so yes, you should dress the wheel before balancing. You'd be taking it out of balance if you true it afterward.
I'm continually amazed at the ingenuity, resourcefulness and generosity of the machinists presented and presenting on RUclips. It is edifying and encouraging instruction in the great potential of mankind. I really like this series of shop visits with those who might never be known, nor their knowledge shared if it were not for videos like yours. Thank you.
Wonderful idea, Peter. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Dale, for introducing us to all of these wonderful people and their great work.
See this is exactly what I love about the machining community, you are never at a loss for good ideas. Plus if you can't figure it out, just say something and someone will have a great answer or a really good idea.
Peter, very clever solution to building the wheel balancer and the adjustable wheel hub.
Dale, thank you for the shop tour series.
Incredible the amount of talent in the homes & shops throughout the country
Looks good Peter. I will have to build one.
Dale, these mini shop tours have been a fantastic idea of yours. Hats off to you.
Awesome idea! Loving this series!!! Beautiful shop Peter! 😃👍
Dale, Awesome Idea to visit home shops and bring great solutions to the greater community. The more I do, the less I know, the more I have to solve. It's a wonderful circle of learning and it's simple solutions like Peter's that inspire more doing....Take Care
From one Peter to another Great Job and Fixture Mahalo for sharing and if you think midwest humidity is bad try being on the tradewind side of the North Pacific I call it Maui Cancer and it can happen over night
Mahalo Dale for doing this as a way of extending your vacation
Peter, that is a great build. Wish you had videoed the build. Thanks Dale, for the shop tour.
Nice build Peter. I now have a project for the winter.
I really like the surface plate hack. This could be useful for a lot of applications.
Thanks Dale for the Shop Tour series! Great ideas there!
That has just solved two of my problems. Thank you it's genius!
Nice video interesting concept, great idea. Thanks for the video Dale.
That is nice idea! Thanks for the video Peter and Dale enjoyed that very much! -Bobby
Simple, elegant solution. Two thumbs up!
Thanks so much for sharing Dale & Peter.
Very novel approach to the project! Hello Peter and thank you Dale... Fred
Very nice! Hope you enjoyed your trek through the area.
I really like these videos. Great to meet you at the bash. See you next year.
That shop is neater than my house. Wow.
Good job, my god, look at that 'Bridgeport'?, looks look it's just out of the box!!!!!!! Thanks for sharing. Regards. Joe.
I love these nuggets you keep coming up with
Great idea. Thanks for sharing it.
That's some dam good thinking right there! Good Job on that!
Yes I made one of these just like his shown for a pedestal grinder and to balance them you drill out one half of each washer and adjust the lite towards the heavy--worked great.. But for the surface grinding wheels it was a bit narrow so I will make another wider one and use rollers however just be aware you can simply mill a .255 slot for instance with a regular cutter and set the rollers down in there or jb weld them. Using the ball end mill as if to match the rods --not that good.. to level it just put a ground block on top and place a ball bearing and adjust the things till the ball stays put--works great.. to balance the wheels you can use small weights of various types even washers or half of washers and use the jb weld up near the blotter--works perfect. Let the wheel settle and mark a line on top of the wheel showing "lite"--place the weights only there with masking tape.. stay a bit shy on the weight because of the jb weld--when you get it good NOT OVERWEIGHT--remove the masking tape and apply the jb weld and stick the items on WORKS GREAT BUT SOUNDS FUNNY--it really isnt.. dont us jb KWIK--it does not give you enough working time. One drawback is you must balance the wheel/wheels and let it sit for a day--you cannot use this method to balance and instantly put the wheel back on and grind.. Also note the balancing arbor--I make and sell them..
I do the balancers the same way using jb in the groove-and the three leveling screws and to level put a ground item on top of the rails then place a 1 inch or so ball bearing on top and adjust till it is stable.
the other thing I do is I use jb weld on the side of the wheel to cure on various weights such as half washers even carbide rock tumbler grit. Unless a hub is a balancing hub I strictly use that system only and no--nothing will fly off to blind a person at all. pretty much only that method can be used for a pedestal grinder also which have no way to balance them--stick a rod in and balance it the normal way let cure and put the wheel or wheels back on you will not even be able to tell its running.
Im just about to set out and do something like this for my J&S 540 - thanks for this insightful tip - PV
Glad I could help
Two things i need so I'll pick-up on those ideas, well done... ;)
Nice Balancer, Peter.
thats slick, thanks for sharing. I my self need to build a balancer, though i need to figure out a hub puller first.
Great Idea!
dale, I wish I had known you were in my area. I would have loved to have met you in person. I sure need to meet peter.
Yes I use way lube to coat all the exposed metal on my machines and Starrett instrument oil for tooling. I do dress the wheels before and after balancing.
thats slick, thanks for sharing.
I like it. may we copy his design?
More shop visits !
I have a cad data base and document where I am drawing up and documenting the various tapers for surface grinders and even other machine tools. For most manual surface grinders its 3 inches per foot--with possible different sizes. However some are in fact unusual angles. DO YOU POSSIBLY KNOW TO CONFIRM THE TAPER PER FOOT OR ANGLE OF THE BROWN AND SHARP YOU MENTIONED? thanks
actually i had to look at the date because I thought you had seen mine and made one however they are based on the same principle. I MADE MINE OUT OF WOOD.. with smaller drill rod-actually i bought a long screwdriver and cut the shaft off.
Great idea, jbweld, it remains very stable after curing. Good video
Thanks
Hey Pete, nice work on the balancer...great ideas about using the different screwed in hardware for a finer balance. Dale, have you made one of those balancers yet? I've just started going through your videos and have not come across one yet.
What brand is that beautiful milling machine?
While talking about rust prevention in Arkansas, I heard Peter mention what sounded like "Vatra #2" as a good rust preventative. Forgive my less than optimal hearing, but could you clarify what he said he uses?
And thanks for a great video!
Vactra No. 2. It's a Mobile product used as a way lube.
But how did he built it?
Dale I have a question I've been pondering. Shipping to the Islands is the largest single expense for any hobbyist that uses tools and machines. I'm part of a Maker space and we are moving into a new larger facility and I will finally have some space for doing layout and measurement. I'm looking into getting a surface plate to do this but the shipping would cost way more then the plate.
I'm considering going to the local grave monument supplier and purchasing a large stone 2'x 2' x 4" or 6" and having him put a high polish on it I know it won' t be Measurement grade but it would be stable and flat There is a Military grade Optics group here for the telescopes so I could probably have it checked and maybe adjusted as much as I know they have the only surface plate here on Maui
Your thoughts as well as your viewers Please and Mahalo from a relocated Midwesterner
Hi Peter, I pick my up from Enco. They have a sale ever 2 months 25% off and free ground shipping. My plate is 3'x4' it cost me $350 delivered
I love the method for making it paralell
Me too
1
Hey that is a nice milling machine what the name of the brand
The mill is a Taiwanese SouthBend sold by Grizzly that I bought a couple of months age when they had a KILLER sale. 9X42 variable speed 220v 1phase.
Does the wheel need to be trued for roundness before balancing?
Distance from the center affects the force, so yes, you should dress the wheel before balancing. You'd be taking it out of balance if you true it afterward.
How does someone get into machining?
Buy a small machine and start to use it. That’s what I did.:-)
I just looked but didn't find, does Peter have a RUclips channel?
Not yet
What is "vactor #2"?
vactra 2 is just simply way oil that is put in oilers and also wiped on machine surfaces.
Peter isn't youtuber yet ?!
Right?!
I think I would rather just apply a drill to any heavy spots rather than the complication of screw holes and a variety of set screws.
Du-Bro 499 Tru-Spin Prop Balancer $25