Nice job! Another way to set your angle would be to use the lathe chuck and chuck up on the arbor with the big diameter of the taper facing out. Indicate the face of the hub that the grinding wheel gets tightened to first then indicate the taper diameter if your chuck is adjustable. Then mount your indicator to your cross slide and line the indicator tip up to the center line of the hub in the up and down direction. Use the cross slide to traverse the indicator tip along the taper and adjust the angle of the cross slide until it reads zero along the cross slide traverse. Then your angle will match the hub very accurately. Steve
Nice job. Interesting. My B&S Micromaster has the standard Sopko 3" per foot taper. I think I moved the compound one inch with a .125" taper. It's half the angle. Came out perfect. I made an angle gauge using Joe Pie's method. This way I just used a magnet, held the plate to the compound and Bob's your uncle.
thanks very much. And yeah i've since traded that grinder for one that takes the standard sopko hubs. joe pie has taught me SO much. thanks for watching btw!
Woah, thanks for checking in! I kind of disappeared for a while, life and all. But im recording again, and might be coming back to instagram too so maybe see you soon!
Thank you so much for watching my vid! and for the words of encourage. I uploaded this first video, and then kind of had a false start on the channel. But I am recording again and am going to give this whole thing another solid attempt. Thanks again, and hope to see you around!
If you are after superior finishes, and who isn't, have heard of roller burnishing yet? If you haven't it is a simple process that deforms the rough high spots to an even level and in doing so it also work hardens the surface to a greater or lesser extent. There sre many videos from commercial outfits and a few homeshop ones, one of which is mine.😉 If i may offer a tip when cutting tapers, the usual thought is to reduce the diamof the taper with the cross slide, this is fine for bulk removal, but when you get to final cuts dont use the cross slide but use the saddle instead. If you imagine your female part needs to go on the taper say a further 40 thou , if you move the saddle that 40 thou you get thrre directly, rather than creeping up a Sine amount on the cross slide. For really fine diameter adjustments moving the saddle will give a benefit by using the sine effect, in your case(7 degree) a 12% of top slide movement and therefore easier to reach your target size and fit.
Just ran across your video. Even though it’s a year old, I found is interesting. I’ve got ideas for a similar balancing rig, so seeing your’s was helpful. I don’t know if you’re doing more videos, but I subscribed. Thanks.
thanks very much! Yep, I've actually been working really hard on the channel lately and getting a vid out about every 2 to 3 weeks. Had a bit of a false start with that first one and it took me a while to come back around and find my stride. But there's more on the channel, and plenty more on the way! Thank you for subscribing, and I hope to see you around!
Thanks for sharing your work, subscribed:) At 14:06 Please never put your fingers into a rotating machine to remove chips or (metal-)swarf again. It works great a million times, but the one time it goes wrong (and you have NO CONTROL over that factor!) is enough and a reminder for the rest of your life:/ By the way, I don't mean this in an overly cautious or alarmist way, but out of pure selfishness: I want to see many more of your great videos, okay? Hehehehe:) P.S.: Hey, you even use pliers at 13:45 ... so ... you can do it!:)
Yep, I second that. I learned the hard way about 30 years ago, 1 little burr that was sticking and it ripped right through my finger, a ride to the emergency room and 20 stitches later I learned to not do that anymore, I just glance at the scar that's still there as a painful reminder!
Taper, Surface Finish, Precision: Use the flat side of the compound slide (which is already at the correct angle for the taper) as a guide for a (somewhat) right-angled wood block with emery paper. At least this is more precise than a "freehand-journey":) Oh and didn't you have a surface grinder?:) Wait ... this project is for the surface grinder. So, a hen and egg problem. Cool!:)
Nice job! Another way to set your angle would be to use the lathe chuck and chuck up on the arbor with the big diameter of the taper facing out. Indicate the face of the hub that the grinding wheel gets tightened to first then indicate the taper diameter if your chuck is adjustable. Then mount your indicator to your cross slide and line the indicator tip up to the center line of the hub in the up and down direction. Use the cross slide to traverse the indicator tip along the taper and adjust the angle of the cross slide until it reads zero along the cross slide traverse. Then your angle will match the hub very accurately.
Steve
Wow, Solid Rock watched my video! Thanks so much for the advice! and for watching and commenting! I have learned SO much from your videos.
@@hersch_tool You are welcome. I enjoyed the video.
Nice job.
Interesting. My B&S Micromaster has the standard Sopko 3" per foot taper.
I think I moved the compound one inch with a .125" taper. It's half the angle.
Came out perfect. I made an angle gauge using Joe Pie's method. This way I just used a magnet, held the plate to the compound and Bob's your uncle.
thanks very much. And yeah i've since traded that grinder for one that takes the standard sopko hubs. joe pie has taught me SO much. thanks for watching btw!
Nerdsofwar checkin in. Nice job! I am glad to see you have started a RUclips channel. Looking forward to more videos.
Woah, thanks for checking in! I kind of disappeared for a while, life and all. But im recording again, and might be coming back to instagram too so maybe see you soon!
good work. I did the same thing a few months ago and it was a lot of figuring out too. I hope you keep making videos so we can see that grinder sing
Thank you so much for watching my vid! and for the words of encourage. I uploaded this first video, and then kind of had a false start on the channel. But I am recording again and am going to give this whole thing another solid attempt. Thanks again, and hope to see you around!
@@hersch_tool cool, I'll look out for it
Great video!
Thank you!
Well done and all the best with your channel from Paul in Australia 🇦🇺 Hoo Roo
Thanks very much!
If you are after superior finishes, and who isn't, have heard of roller burnishing yet? If you haven't it is a simple process that deforms the rough high spots to an even level and in doing so it also work hardens the surface to a greater or lesser extent. There sre many videos from commercial outfits and a few homeshop ones, one of which is mine.😉
If i may offer a tip when cutting tapers, the usual thought is to reduce the diamof the taper with the cross slide, this is fine for bulk removal, but when you get to final cuts dont use the cross slide but use the saddle instead. If you imagine your female part needs to go on the taper say a further 40 thou , if you move the saddle that 40 thou you get thrre directly, rather than creeping up a Sine amount on the cross slide. For really fine diameter adjustments moving the saddle will give a benefit by using the sine effect, in your case(7 degree) a 12% of top slide movement and therefore easier to reach your target size and fit.
Thanks for the tips! I'll check out your vid on roller burnishing! :)
Just ran across your video. Even though it’s a year old, I found is interesting. I’ve got ideas for a similar balancing rig, so seeing your’s was helpful. I don’t know if you’re doing more videos, but I subscribed. Thanks.
thanks very much! Yep, I've actually been working really hard on the channel lately and getting a vid out about every 2 to 3 weeks. Had a bit of a false start with that first one and it took me a while to come back around and find my stride. But there's more on the channel, and plenty more on the way! Thank you for subscribing, and I hope to see you around!
well done!
Thank you FooGee!
Hell yeah!
Thanks for sharing your work, subscribed:)
At 14:06 Please never put your fingers into a rotating machine to remove chips or (metal-)swarf again. It works great a million times, but the one time it goes wrong (and you have NO CONTROL over that factor!) is enough and a reminder for the rest of your life:/
By the way, I don't mean this in an overly cautious or alarmist way, but out of pure selfishness: I want to see many more of your great videos, okay? Hehehehe:)
P.S.: Hey, you even use pliers at 13:45 ... so ... you can do it!:)
Haha, thank you so much! I appreciate the advice, and the reasoning behind 😉
Yep, I second that. I learned the hard way about 30 years ago, 1 little burr that was sticking and it ripped right through my finger, a ride to the emergency room and 20 stitches later I learned to not do that anymore, I just glance at the scar that's still there as a painful reminder!
@@brownh2orat211 Yikes!
“Arbortrarily”
pfff, lol 😂
Taper, Surface Finish, Precision: Use the flat side of the compound slide (which is already at the correct angle for the taper) as a guide for a (somewhat) right-angled wood block with emery paper. At least this is more precise than a "freehand-journey":)
Oh and didn't you have a surface grinder?:) Wait ... this project is for the surface grinder. So, a hen and egg problem. Cool!:)
Thank you! And that sounds like a really great idea! I'll keep that one in my back pocket for next time :)