Great job! I'm looking to do resin infused OSB for shelf boards, just love the messy look. This is the only vid I found doing resin infusion to wood. I think the problem of that dry spot was caused by the level of inlet and outlet. Most resin infusion videos place inlet at lowest spot, and outlet at highest spot, let gravity do the job. Might work perfect if stand the board verticle while infusion.
Intriguing build. I've never heard of infusion and it's hard to believe or understand why the vacuum sucks the epoxy in between the layers of wood. Do you turn off the pump first? It seems really tricky to NOT get dry spots everywhere. If they're between the wood you'll only know when it delaminates.
You are right, it can be tricky to avoid dry spots, and that's why I gave it a try with these cheap materials. However I know for sure there are no dry spots between the boards because I pre drilled some small holes through the upper board to be able to observe which side was fastest to wet. Also meaning that when the whole upper sheet of epoxy was wet that would also apply to the mid surface. Because of shortcut in the ends of the bag a lot of epoxy ran into the trap before everything was wet. So I switched of the pump and brought the excess epoxy back to the inlet again and ran it through another time. In an ideal layup, with laminar flow through the laminate dry spots could be avoided. Or in this case a flow mesh would be the best upgrade to the layup.
That is a really interesting video! I wanted to do the same test but never jump the step. Thanks for sharing this. What kind of glue did you use to seal the bag?
+Yannis QUEMERE The glue is a cheap acrylic construction adhesive called PL200. I've used that glue a lot instead of vacuum bag sealant gum because it is easier to apply.
I cant figure out how many layers of fiberglass and wood you used and how did you arrange them. did you put fiberglass only on the top and bottom, or somewhere in the middle too?
The fiberglass I used was 750 g/m² triax mat with fibers equally distributed [ -45 / 0 / 45 ]. I used one mat on top, and one under the wood core. Those fibers are used a lot for ski building, and it is possible to by them on rolls one foot wide. In the bottom and on the top of the layup I used glossy sheets of polyethylene prepared with release agent to get a glassy surface on the laminate. Baking paper could do the job - but I preferred to use something more stiff to avoid getting wrinkles.
Leak tester just the vacuum tube running through an oil bath. If there is a leak you will see bubbles in the oil. It is described in another comment as a reply to Michael Coffin.
Hi, can somebody help me figure out how to cut out the drop through mounts? Is there a template somewhere? I found a template for Randal drop through trucks, but I have Paris trucks. Also, because this is a drop through board and you are not using a drill press, I am assuming that you drill from the top so that the holes are aligned on the top where it matters? This is because on a drop through the metal plate of the truck is on the top of the board and by drilling from the top towards the bottom, the holes on the top will be aligned even though the holes on the bottom may not be if you did not drill perfectly straight?
+Michael Coffin Haven't seen it anywhere else either. I was just thinking that the easiest way to see if something is coming into the bag is to monitor what goes out of the bag, i.e into the pump. And the easiest way I could think of was to lead the flow through a liquid lock. It's just a marmalade glass, with in and out connections trough the lid. The inlet hose goes down an upside down mounted old 35mm film box. This is to make a reservoir to avoid the oil from being sucked into the bag if you accidentally get a leak on the suction side. All sealing are made with gum sealant. I've been thinking of making a video instruction. Maybe one day...
That's very nice board and you should be proud regardless if you feel you messed up on some parts because you made it yourself. Keep up the good work!
Clamping or infusion, but maybe not both at the same time. Nice shop and excellent work. You fixed it right and the board looks good.
Great job!
I'm looking to do resin infused OSB for shelf boards, just love the messy look.
This is the only vid I found doing resin infusion to wood.
I think the problem of that dry spot was caused by the level of inlet and outlet.
Most resin infusion videos place inlet at lowest spot, and outlet at highest spot, let gravity do the job.
Might work perfect if stand the board verticle while infusion.
Absolutely Great work Sir!
Intriguing build. I've never heard of infusion and it's hard to believe or understand why the vacuum sucks the epoxy in between the layers of wood. Do you turn off the pump first? It seems really tricky to NOT get dry spots everywhere. If they're between the wood you'll only know when it delaminates.
You are right, it can be tricky to avoid dry spots, and that's why I gave it a try with these cheap materials. However I know for sure there are no dry spots between the boards because I pre drilled some small holes through the upper board to be able to observe which side was fastest to wet. Also meaning that when the whole upper sheet of epoxy was wet that would also apply to the mid surface.
Because of shortcut in the ends of the bag a lot of epoxy ran into the trap before everything was wet. So I switched of the pump and brought the excess epoxy back to the inlet again and ran it through another time. In an ideal layup, with laminar flow through the laminate dry spots could be avoided. Or in this case a flow mesh would be the best upgrade to the layup.
this is an awesome board!! and also a really good video:)
Thank you for giving feedback :-)
That is a really interesting video! I wanted to do the same test but never jump the step. Thanks for sharing this.
What kind of glue did you use to seal the bag?
+Yannis QUEMERE
The glue is a cheap acrylic construction adhesive called PL200. I've used that glue a lot instead of vacuum bag sealant gum because it is easier to apply.
+Jørgen Blindheim
Thanks for your quick reply!
I will try to find some. Because I can't find any sealant were I work.
breath in those fiberglass peices mmm tastes like internal bleeding
I cant figure out how many layers of fiberglass and wood you used and how did you arrange them. did you put fiberglass only on the top and bottom, or somewhere in the middle too?
Seems like:
baking paper (non stick paper..)
fiber
wood
fiber
baking paper
The fiberglass I used was 750 g/m² triax mat with fibers equally distributed [ -45 / 0 / 45 ]. I used one mat on top, and one under the wood core. Those fibers are used a lot for ski building, and it is possible to by them on rolls one foot wide. In the bottom and on the top of the layup I used glossy sheets of polyethylene prepared with release agent to get a glassy surface on the laminate. Baking paper could do the job - but I preferred to use something more stiff to avoid getting wrinkles.
I see :D just knew it was some sort of wax paper or release agent preped sheet :D
Nice, How dose the leak tester thing work? Ive used glue for seal but it starts to crack if I heat it up to 30 Celsius ween drying had that problem?
Thanks, The glue I used was epoxy. I used a quite viscous one and it required heat to cure. But almost any epoxy should be okay for a board.
I meant the acrylic glue, thanks and the leak tester?
Sorry, yes the glue for sealing is a construction adhesive called PL200. I've had no trouble with it drying too much.
Leak tester just the vacuum tube running through an oil bath. If there is a leak you will see bubbles in the oil. It is described in another comment as a reply to Michael Coffin.
Hi, can somebody help me figure out how to cut out the drop through mounts? Is there a template somewhere? I found a template for Randal drop through trucks, but I have Paris trucks. Also, because this is a drop through board and you are not using a drill press, I am assuming that you drill from the top so that the holes are aligned on the top where it matters? This is because on a drop through the metal plate of the truck is on the top of the board and by drilling from the top towards the bottom, the holes on the top will be aligned even though the holes on the bottom may not be if you did not drill perfectly straight?
hay nice job do you have a template link to print?
@blim. how did you make/plum your leak indicator? I've never seen one like that before. Thanks
+Michael Coffin
Haven't seen it anywhere else either. I was just thinking that the easiest way to see if something is coming into the bag is to monitor what goes out of the bag, i.e into the pump. And the easiest way I could think of was to lead the flow through a liquid lock. It's just a marmalade glass, with in and out connections trough the lid. The inlet hose goes down an upside down mounted old 35mm film box. This is to make a reservoir to avoid the oil from being sucked into the bag if you accidentally get a leak on the suction side. All sealing are made with gum sealant. I've been thinking of making a video instruction. Maybe one day...
wow que genial !!!
where can i find A4 template for a free ride longboard? or template for this one?
Could it be possible to make a longboard for me?
Thank you, I just make things for fun when I have time off. It will be possible to make one for you, but I guess too expensive :-)
+Blim how much just for the board???
Deutsch, Longboardz ;)?
Made in Norway
In my first work I always used Woodglut plans.