Making a carbon fiber and maple skateboard
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
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This was done as an experiment to increase the stiffness of my boards while minimizing additional cost and weight. The design, build, and tests were very crude, but good enough for what I was seeking to learn.
If you notice any mistakes I made or have any tips/suggestions, please share them in the comments! (And please include your sources, credentials and/or experience with fiber composites.)
Open Source Skateboards designs and builds boards specifically for you, and I'm stoked to add environmentally-responsible fiber composite layups to our capabilities.
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this is heaps good!!! what are your thoughts on carbon/kevlar weaves?, please do more carbon fibre boards :)
I'm gonna be doing a build like this in the coming days, but I'm going to use a LOT more carbon and a face sheet of fiberglass (for protection) and a bit less wood. It'll be a 36" single kick if you're curious.
Thanks for the video and lessons to easily avoid!
Sweet! Def share it in the DIY skateboard builders group on Facebook when you finish it! Would love to see it. facebook.com/groups/607320939462244/
openSource(skateboards); carbon build done, and some pics can be seen here: facebook.com/LakesideBoardsLSB/posts/2065349527027866
4 ply maple, 2 layers of carbon and 1 of thin glass on side side. Roarockit press with perforated release film and breather cloth. Came out great! Clearly some voids (air holes) in the layup but otherwise fire.
Beautiful! :D
The issue with carbon fibre that you didn't address, but that was critical to your build purposes here, was the fiber direction/weave. unidirectional fiber will create sheets that are stiff in one direction only, being very flexible in the perpendicular direction. It can't be determined from the low res of this video, but that appears to be the direction you laid the fiber in this build. So, unfortunately, it really did very little for your stated goal. Either a different cloth type or the opposite ply direction would have resulted in very different results.
Also, another thing to consider would have been either to lay the grip tape first, thus embedding it directly into the epoxy (no idea if that would work) or using a sheet grip tape upside down, impressing the course texture directly into the epoxy surface, giving the board a naturally abrasive surface.
Alteranately (and perhaps best) you might try sprinkling abrasives (sand, carborundum, etc.) directly into the epoxy before vacuforming, and skipping the grip tape altogether.
Just some thoughts.
the top of the board would be experiencing compression, not tension, though?
cool use of your knowledge
next time use a layer of carbon fiber and Kevlar weave in between the layers and layers up you own. I use the weave to replace a layer of maple with it
Yeah, that's a good thought. My intent with this was to minimize manufacturing costs - doing an interwoven layup as you describe would make a stronger board and help distribute stresses more evenly I think, but that would require me to either use epoxy for the full layup (which is about triple the cost of wood glue) or doing a multi-stage layup using wood glue for the wood sections and epoxy for the fiber sections (more labor hours and wait times). Maybe there are other options, though that I'm not aware of! Ideas/suggestions are always welcome :) .
Do you do your layup completely with epoxy? Which epoxy do you like to use?
For maximum benefit from the tensile strength of the carbon you need to keep the carbon on the outermost layers, as far away from the neutral axis (middle layer) as possible, so what you've done is good. You could go one further and add a carbon layer to the bottom too. Bringing the carbon layers further into the board will reduce the effectiveness of the carbon. One thing you may want to try is using unidirectional carbon instead of weave. This has even greater tensile strength but only in the direction of the carbon fibres, but as you're not after transverse strength, this would work well.
@@1977meteor Actually, I was a bit surprised at the idea to put the carbon fiber on top. Since the board flexes toward concaving during ride, that's the bottom to made to stretch less. In this video, the carbon layer acts by resisting against compression, which it is not best at.
im quite sure the carbon fibre was ment to go on the bottom, tension occurs on the bottom and compression occurs at the top?
You are correct if the loading condition is such that the force being applied is downwards between the trucks - in this case, the board would bend like the letter U, compression on top, tension on bottom. However, the failure mode I most frequently encounter is fracture near the trucks due to landing with one foot between the trucks and one foot on the nose or tail. In this loading scenario, there are two point loads applied to either side of one truck. In this case, the board bends like an upside down U around the truck, so there is tension on the top and and compression on the bottom. Does that make sense?
Thanks a lot, I’m just building a diy longboard for my gcse coursework. I might put it on both sides to reduce flex when normal riding so the hub doesn’t scrape, and for the reason you specified. Thanks again. Would fibreglass or carbon be better in terms of tensile strength?
Cool. I found this table comparing tensile strengths of fibers, and it looks like carbon fiber typically has a higher tensile strength than fiberglass: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basalt_fiber. A good source for checking specific material properties is MatWeb (www.matweb.com).
Which is good fiber or wood
put a layer on top on the bottom and one in the middle?? could that be done?
That could definitely be done! I did just one layer on top here for simplicity of fabrication and keeping cost down.
6 year update please
Car test the board