I have the same model. I cleaned the coils that were dirty and with a compressor and then found the drain hoses were clogged when i pulled them off. I also cleaned the solenoid with a Q-tip and vinegar. I also pulled off the panel and covered the beginning of the copper to the coils just to the silver part and plugged the unit back in and it is working better than before. Your tips helped. The drain hoses I believe were a big part of the unit freezing and clogging the drain, that caused he pooling of water.
Hi bro. Thanks for your video. It was very helpful. I am still having trouble with my frigde but it helped me tonlookbfor other areas on it to check. Due to ur video i am reacing some parts myself. Thanks again
Our fridge has 3 compartments, fresh food, flex zone, and freezer. The fresh food section quit cooling and other 2 areas were fine. We found the part that you tapped on and we did the same. It worked!!!!! We had 2 techs out that couldn’t fix it. THANK YOU!!!!
@@beekay0407 We found the part that he took off and tapped on. We have a newer model, so it was more difficult to get to. We couldn’t get it off, but tapped on it and pushed down on it. Within an hour it cooled down to 40, but unfortunately, I jumped the gun and made my comment. It’s back to not cooling. However, I think this part is the key. Going to try again tomorrow
@@daviddishongh510 We are having a similar problem. Freezer cooling to the temperature of the Fridge and Flex zone. Where did you find the step valve? I think our fridge is like yours.. we opened the bottom back, but no step valve.
The black thing looks like a solenoid coil. When current flows thru it, generates a magnetic field. Inside the metal piece is an iron plunger that gets moved up and down. Same as the starter solenoid on your car. All others I have seen are just two position, in or out. Since this seems to be able to send refrigerant to either refrigerator section, freezer, or both, maybe it's a 3 way. Middle (rest) position flows to both, top to one, bottom to the other. They might be able to do this by altering the current flow to the coil. One direction pops it up, current the other direction pops it down. No current flow = middle = flow to both. At 6:52 it kind of looks like it has separate top and bottom windings. Maybe energizing one or the other moves the plunger up or down? The plunger might have been stuck, you unstuck it when you tapped it. Or coil might have had a poor electrical connection and when you moved it around it got better contact. Coils usually fail open, but occasionally get shorts in the windings. Moving it around probably wouldn't affect that, so don't think the coil failed. Disclaimer: not a refrigeration tech. Electronics, industrial, engineering, USPS tech.
My countertop depth FREEZER is having the same symptoms yours had. My refrigerator does not have that black solenoid in the back. My refrigerator has the control board on top of the refrigerator. Does my refrigerator have that solenoid somewhere else? Please help.
How do know if the coil needs the replacement? What I s the input power/voltage to the coil and what is the source? Is it the motherboard or the inventor board? What is the replacement part number for the coil and how one may order it? How do you know if the coil is getting any power and where this connector is being fed power from the motherboard or inventor board and the location of the pins connection on either of the board? The inventor has solid red light indicating working normal and does not find the faulty coil for refrigerator valve.
My countertop depth FREEZER. , has the same symptoms as yours did. I cannot find the black solenoid on my refrigerator. My refrigerator has the control bored is on top of the refrigerator. Please help.
What have you learned from this video? I’m perplexed, I own two Samsung refrigerators which have been problematic: for the Freezer on the bottom: refrigerator not cooling and the 28 cf Flex Freezer, the fancy one, has ice in the back of the refrigerator and can make ice cubes! I’ve made thousands of dollars in stoves and microwaves to match these fridges. There should be recalls on them. I will need more Internet research because too many people have experienced issues with this company!
My daughter is having this same problem on her GE bottom freezer. Coil in back is clean, coil condenser inside freezer wasn't frozen up. I'll have to check that coil relay thing or whatever they call it. Looks like an electronic coil that controls some king of valves inside to open and close.
I had one like this Samsung (Twin cooling), Compressor it seem not working, I was looking for start relay but I didn't see it ? Does some one know where it located ?
It may need cleaning around the fan motor coil and lubricant on the shaft/bearing areas. Always try to vacuum dust/dirt before blowing it with compressed air
I am looking the part number of the coil if it needs the replacement but having difficulty the source (location of pins on mother board or inverter board ) and voltage to it connector.
I have exactly the same problem you describe in your video, and have run the same diagnostics. So, I tried removing the Pulse Solenoid Valve and cleaning it as you did. Hoping it will work like it did for you, but if it doesn't I was thinking of buying a new one. However, no one seems to carry the part. Were you able to get one?
The absolute worst refrigerator(Samsung). I have one that’s just 4 years old. Ice maker hasn’t worked now the top fridge is not cooling. Tried to reset, didn’t work. So I guess my next step is to pay a pro a few bucks to fix a high price fridge. Samsung created a fridge with job security!
@@MartinX31 My fridge needed defrosting. There was an ice build up behind the inside fan at the top of the fridge. My ice maker is still not working. I paid a guy quite a few bucks just to defrost a fridge. I’ll no the next time if there is one to just cut unplug the fridge for a day and hope that’s it.
Once you plug it back in you should see a temperature drop within the first hour period but it will take several hours to see any significant change. In 24 hrs it should be at set temperature, but loading it with warm items will drag it lower. Room temperature will also affect the performance.
If banging on it worked, then it was NOT the black coil...it was the plunger connected to the refrigerant lines. The black part is an electrical coil...bang on the drums all day and it'll not affect this unless there is a broken wire inside and banging on it moved the ends into contact--which is unlikely because they are wound vert tight. If in fact it is the plunger part, there is no repair feasibly possible.
I think I am having the same problem. I sure hope so. We gave a garden and I have been putting a lot of vegetables in the freezer. I took everything out and unplugged it. I didn't take all the panels off but did clean the coils in the back.
I have a Samsung same as this my fridge was not cooling . It is the issue with the rain cooling system. The drain was frozen Samsung will not replace the part but u can buy longer piece to go on the drain n down in it . Its 6 bucks on Amazon I replaced mine 4 yrs ago and I took the back apart on thin cooling in fridge. I defrostEd it myself while it was apart put new thing in drain that hooks easily over heating thing and haven't had issues since today but no ice is in fridge now so off to Google more for this single mimi to figure out today's issue which I think may be the seals are looking rough so I cleaned then and put on power cool and it's cooling down now so we will see
Like all Samsung products don't last. Mines less then a year old and the cost to fix it is the same as a new fridge 😂 what a joke. Plus they don't want to process the warranty. Because of user error 😂. Made in China keep in a cool dry place and never use it
The main problems in all refrigerators and freezers are the temperature sensors depending on its quality, but if you don't keep your external condensers coils clean, and internal and external air circulation UN-obstructed it will cause you a faulty operation and very likely a mayor repair. Be mindful under which conditions is your unit installed, dusty, clean, exterior, interior... then monitor and adjust your cleaning schedule accordingly. There is nothing you can do about a sensor going bad with the time, but erratic temperature on any of the compartments after you visually check the condenser coils, drains, fans, defrosting resistance operation, door seals and any other component to ensure are in good working condition and clean; then, your sensors needs to be the source of your problem. Measuring the resistance on temperature sensors with a multi-meter is a way to confirm the faulty ones, but you need to have the corresponding resistance data to compare the values and confirm if the resistance response is correct, the response or resistance value will depend on ambient temperature on which the test is performed.
It funny how we the HVAC tech s fix all heating and AC system and we can’t fix the refrigerator. Mine is 19 years old and I guess I’m buying a new one .
Lol..... he said I'm a HVAC professional.........bro.... refrigerators are not a air conditioner.... .. stick with HVAC...... u are 50 correct but experience in this field is what u are missing brother
@gerardomedina at least he put his qualifications straight out there. Many guys doing "fix it" videos have nothing but "I grew up with my handyman dad who fixed everything" and they have solutions that work too. I don't seem to understand your need to badmouth someone who not only stated his "limitations" if you choose to call them that, but who had GOOD RESULTS as a part of his (at least partial) background knowledge. What a waste of your (AND OUR) time to even take the time to write your comment.
And if your frig started working after watching it and doing the same thing, would you be bitching about whether or not you knew the "culprit"? Some of us have learned valuable things SIMPLY about how our frig works, what can cause it to clog, slow, etc. whether we even have the same problem. I don't know what's wrong with ppl like you @christopherreyes3193. Why waste your time with negative comments? It's a waste of my time to read it WAY more than watching the "long ass video" as you'd like to put it. Didn't your mama teach you anything? "If you don't have anything nice to say (or positive to add) then DON'T SAY ANTHING AT ALL."
I have the same model. I cleaned the coils that were dirty and with a compressor and then found the drain hoses were clogged when i pulled them off. I also cleaned the solenoid with a Q-tip and vinegar. I also pulled off the panel and covered the beginning of the copper to the coils just to the silver part and plugged the unit back in and it is working better than before. Your tips helped. The drain hoses I believe were a big part of the unit freezing and clogging the drain, that caused he pooling of water.
Hi bro.
Thanks for your video. It was very helpful. I am still having trouble with my frigde but it helped me tonlookbfor other areas on it to check. Due to ur video i am reacing some parts myself. Thanks again
Our fridge has 3 compartments, fresh food, flex zone, and freezer. The fresh food section quit cooling and other 2 areas were fine. We found the part that you tapped on and we did the same. It worked!!!!! We had 2 techs out that couldn’t fix it. THANK YOU!!!!
We are having the same problem. What did you change? Thanks much for your help!
@@beekay0407 We found the part that he took off and tapped on. We have a newer model, so it was more difficult to get to. We couldn’t get it off, but tapped on it and pushed down on it. Within an hour it cooled down to 40, but unfortunately, I jumped the gun and made my comment. It’s back to not cooling. However, I think this part is the key. Going to try again tomorrow
@@daviddishongh510 We are having a similar problem. Freezer cooling to the temperature of the Fridge and Flex zone. Where did you find the step valve? I think our fridge is like yours.. we opened the bottom back, but no step valve.
@@LenParliament back bottom left
The black thing looks like a solenoid coil. When current flows thru it, generates a magnetic field. Inside the metal piece is an iron plunger that gets moved up and down. Same as the starter solenoid on your car.
All others I have seen are just two position, in or out. Since this seems to be able to send refrigerant to either refrigerator section, freezer, or both, maybe it's a 3 way. Middle (rest) position flows to both, top to one, bottom to the other. They might be able to do this by altering the current flow to the coil. One direction pops it up, current the other direction pops it down. No current flow = middle = flow to both. At 6:52 it kind of looks like it has separate top and bottom windings. Maybe energizing one or the other moves the plunger up or down?
The plunger might have been stuck, you unstuck it when you tapped it. Or coil might have had a poor electrical connection and when you moved it around it got better contact. Coils usually fail open, but occasionally get shorts in the windings. Moving it around probably wouldn't affect that, so don't think the coil failed.
Disclaimer: not a refrigeration tech. Electronics, industrial, engineering, USPS tech.
I agree! That most likely a solenoid.
Brilliant
3 way one
Full disclosure…thanks!
You never put the link in the description below for that black solenoid part.
It’s called a “thing-uh-muh-jigger.”
I have that exact same refrigerator man the bottom evaporator coil dont get cold at all like the top is there a reason for that ? Any ideas??
Thanks makes sense. What is the parts number for the black piece?
My countertop depth FREEZER is having the same symptoms yours had. My refrigerator does not have that black solenoid in the back. My refrigerator has the control board on top of the refrigerator. Does my refrigerator have that solenoid somewhere else? Please help.
I have one fan in the freezer area that runs but the other fan beside it does not? Is the second fan for the defrost cycle?
How do know if the coil needs the replacement? What I s the input power/voltage to the coil and what is the source? Is it the motherboard or the inventor board? What is the replacement part number for the coil and how one may order it?
How do you know if the coil is getting any power and where this connector is being fed power from the motherboard or inventor board and the location of the pins connection on either of the board?
The inventor has solid red light indicating working normal and does not find the faulty coil for refrigerator valve.
My countertop depth FREEZER. , has the same symptoms as yours did. I cannot find the black solenoid on my refrigerator. My refrigerator has the control bored is on top of the refrigerator. Please help.
Thank you!!
What have you learned from this video? I’m perplexed, I own two Samsung refrigerators which have been problematic: for the Freezer on the bottom: refrigerator not cooling and the 28 cf Flex Freezer, the fancy one, has ice in the back of the refrigerator and can make ice cubes! I’ve made thousands of dollars in stoves and microwaves to match these fridges. There should be recalls on them. I will need more Internet research because too many people have experienced issues with this company!
My daughter is having this same problem on her GE bottom freezer. Coil in back is clean, coil condenser inside freezer wasn't frozen up. I'll have to check that coil relay thing or whatever they call it. Looks like an electronic coil that controls some king of valves inside to open and close.
I have the exact one the top and bottom not getting cold I really do think it's something I'm missing Any ideas
i have one that looks the same as that one but it doesnt have the diverter valve model: rf263beaesl/ed
👍
NSCEV01TA1 replacement single pulse valve Refrigerator pulse solenoid valve
Where can you buy one? Plz post a link.
I had one like this Samsung (Twin cooling), Compressor it seem not working, I was looking for start relay but I didn't see it ? Does some one know where it located ?
When I unplugged/plugged back in the condenser fan didn't spin until I spun it by hand then it ran....is this an indication of something?
You need a new fan motor
It may need cleaning around the fan motor coil and lubricant on the shaft/bearing areas. Always try to vacuum dust/dirt before blowing it with compressed air
i have all the same issues but mine doesnt have that black thing..so i dont know...
Does your fan have to be running all the time ? What happens if you put a new one and still don’t run ?
That is a magnetic solenoid when energize it pulls the valve up in the solenoid valve
I am looking the part number of the coil if it needs the replacement but having difficulty the source (location of pins on mother board or inverter board ) and voltage to it connector.
Looks like I have the same fridge. GREAT video but now can you tell me how to program it to send ice to the lower drawer
I think they have a reset button on the ice maker part.
I have exactly the same problem you describe in your video, and have run the same diagnostics. So, I tried removing the Pulse Solenoid Valve and cleaning it as you did. Hoping it will work like it did for you, but if it doesn't I was thinking of buying a new one. However, no one seems to carry the part. Were you able to get one?
Did cleaning that piece work for you?
Im having the same issue and i have the same exact Samsung u have but it dont have that piece on the back u was referring to
I have a newer one only 5 years old same thing doesn’t have that black piece… did you have any luck with it?
@shaneparker7558 I think I'm short on Freon I put some in and the refrigerator now gets nice & cold but the freezer still sitting in the 50s & 60s
What if it is making a faint thumping noise every 10 to 15 seconds.
Did it improve?
@checkitout2468 fridge went out on new years. Bought another fridge.
@
Gotcha. Glad you’re able to replace it
The absolute worst refrigerator(Samsung). I have one that’s just 4 years old. Ice maker hasn’t worked now the top fridge is not cooling. Tried to reset, didn’t work. So I guess my next step is to pay a pro a few bucks to fix a high price fridge. Samsung created a fridge with job security!
Didnyou ever figure out what was wrong with it?? Im having the same problem with mine!
@@MartinX31 My fridge needed defrosting. There was an ice build up behind the inside fan at the top of the fridge. My ice maker is still not working. I paid a guy quite a few bucks just to defrost a fridge. I’ll no the next time if there is one to just cut unplug the fridge for a day and hope that’s it.
Once everything is reset how long do these fridges take to actuality get cold
Mine took 6 weeks
@@Ukman-england miles took a couple hours one side fix the leak and recharged it
Once you plug it back in you should see a temperature drop within the first hour period but it will take several hours to see any significant change. In 24 hrs it should be at set temperature, but loading it with warm items will drag it lower. Room temperature will also affect the performance.
If banging on it worked, then it was NOT the black coil...it was the plunger connected to the refrigerant lines. The black part is an electrical coil...bang on the drums all day and it'll not affect this unless there is a broken wire inside and banging on it moved the ends into contact--which is unlikely because they are wound vert tight. If in fact it is the plunger part, there is no repair feasibly possible.
Unplugged and allowed it to defrost for 2 days. After two days it is cooling properly
I think I am having the same problem. I sure hope so. We gave a garden and I have been putting a lot of vegetables in the freezer. I took everything out and unplugged it. I didn't take all the panels off but did clean the coils in the back.
unplug for 48 hours then plug it in again. returned to cold in less than 48 hours. If you get 10 years out of a fridge you are lucky
I’m pissed
I have a Samsung same as this my fridge was not cooling . It is the issue with the rain cooling system. The drain was frozen Samsung will not replace the part but u can buy longer piece to go on the drain n down in it . Its 6 bucks on Amazon I replaced mine 4 yrs ago and I took the back apart on thin cooling in fridge. I defrostEd it myself while it was apart put new thing in drain that hooks easily over heating thing and haven't had issues since today but no ice is in fridge now so off to Google more for this single mimi to figure out today's issue which I think may be the seals are looking rough so I cleaned then and put on power cool and it's cooling down now so we will see
Never buying Samsung again!
I hear ya.
@@checkitout2468what’s the name of that black part
Same!!!!
Ive had mine for 15yrs. It is just getting this issue.
Samsung refrigerators junk
"I'll tell you at the end of the video how I solved it"
Happy to help.
Like all Samsung products don't last. Mines less then a year old and the cost to fix it is the same as a new fridge 😂 what a joke. Plus they don't want to process the warranty. Because of user error 😂. Made in China keep in a cool dry place and never use it
The main problems in all refrigerators and freezers are the temperature sensors depending on its quality, but if you don't keep your external condensers coils clean, and internal and external air circulation UN-obstructed it will cause you a faulty operation and very likely a mayor repair. Be mindful under which conditions is your unit installed, dusty, clean, exterior, interior... then monitor and adjust your cleaning schedule accordingly. There is nothing you can do about a sensor going bad with the time, but erratic temperature on any of the compartments after you visually check the condenser coils, drains, fans, defrosting resistance operation, door seals and any other component to ensure are in good working condition and clean; then, your sensors needs to be the source of your problem. Measuring the resistance on temperature sensors with a multi-meter is a way to confirm the faulty ones, but you need to have the corresponding resistance data to compare the values and confirm if the resistance response is correct, the response or resistance value will depend on ambient temperature on which the test is performed.
It funny how we the HVAC tech s fix all heating and AC system and we can’t fix the refrigerator. Mine is 19 years old and I guess I’m buying a new one .
Lol..... he said I'm a HVAC professional.........bro.... refrigerators are not a air conditioner.... .. stick with HVAC...... u are 50 correct but experience in this field is what u are missing brother
I agree, working with HVAC is much different. I am glad you found this video helpful.
@gerardomedina at least he put his qualifications straight out there. Many guys doing "fix it" videos have nothing but "I grew up with my handyman dad who fixed everything" and they have solutions that work too. I don't seem to understand your need to badmouth someone who not only stated his "limitations" if you choose to call them that, but who had GOOD RESULTS as a part of his (at least partial) background knowledge. What a waste of your (AND OUR) time to even take the time to write your comment.
😊 that long-ass video and don't even know the culprit
And if your frig started working after watching it and doing the same thing, would you be bitching about whether or not you knew the "culprit"? Some of us have learned valuable things SIMPLY about how our frig works, what can cause it to clog, slow, etc. whether we even have the same problem. I don't know what's wrong with ppl like you @christopherreyes3193. Why waste your time with negative comments? It's a waste of my time to read it WAY more than watching the "long ass video" as you'd like to put it. Didn't your mama teach you anything? "If you don't have anything nice to say (or positive to add) then DON'T SAY ANTHING AT ALL."