Thanks for posting, this saved me quite a bit on fixing these on my son's car. One of them was broken and hanging loose from the top. The top nut came off with some PB and a driver, using a vice grip on the ball. For the bottom, I had to cut the nut from the front using a Dremel and a reinforced cutting wheel (didn't have a larger cutting tool). When I got to the other side, it had been replaced with a Moog part at some point, but since I had a new pair I swapped it anyway. The Moog parts don't need an allen key, just a box end wrench on the back side. I used the spare tire jack to lift the car, and a bottle jack to lift the control arm. About $70 in parts and likely saved $200 in labor.
I have done this same job on the same car, I would recommend just breaking the end link bar off of the ball joints of the end link. You can use a pry bar and it will just pop right off it's socket. then take a large vice grip and clamp the remaining ball portion of the stud from behind (this is what the allen keyed bolt is connected to from the front). Then you can just use your wrench to loosen as the vice grip will hold the stud from behind.
I’ll be doing this job tomorrow and your video + comments are super helpful. If I have trouble w/ the bolts, I will try popping the ball out of the socket and holding w/ vice grips as one of the comments recommended. Fingers crossed, all goes well…
I used a Moog replacement link that has grease fittings, and also eliminates the allen key requirement. Another thing I found that was helpful is to use a jack stand to support the vehicle weight and thus allowing the jack to be used to lift the control arm up and align the link studs into the holes. Thankfully, my replacement did not require a sawzall. I sprayed the nuts down a week in advance, as I live in the rust belt.
I’m getting a clunk up front on my GE8. I can’t help but think it’s struts but before I do that, I figure maybe replace the end links. I’m in the rust belt and terrified watching you have to grind it off. I had to do this on my Miata when I did my coils and it was a nightmare
If you cut this off from the back, you have to loosen the nut enough to get in front of the circular backing piece on sway bar link AKA (backing washer). If you don't cut in front of that circular backing piece (washer) then it won't fall out. That backing piece (washer) and nut on the stud pinch the strut point connection and or sway bar connection on the bottom. You might have an easier time cutting the bolt and nut from the front. I got lucky and used vice grips on the back and spun the nut off with an impact wrench. They were the OEM sway bar links after 10 years in the heart of the rust belt. I soaked them with PB Blaster a few days before I did the job.
I would just spray WD-40 on it and let it sit over night. Then use an impact gun to take off the bolts. I would put anti-seize on the threads of the new sway bar link too.
The fact that the stud of this fastener must be held with a allen wrench makes an impact useless. The stud will just spin. This job requires handtools.
Hey man I just came across your channel and I saw your PC build I want to get similar specs to the one you build can you provide me w an update on how is running so far?
Thanks for posting, this saved me quite a bit on fixing these on my son's car. One of them was broken and hanging loose from the top. The top nut came off with some PB and a driver, using a vice grip on the ball. For the bottom, I had to cut the nut from the front using a Dremel and a reinforced cutting wheel (didn't have a larger cutting tool). When I got to the other side, it had been replaced with a Moog part at some point, but since I had a new pair I swapped it anyway. The Moog parts don't need an allen key, just a box end wrench on the back side. I used the spare tire jack to lift the car, and a bottle jack to lift the control arm. About $70 in parts and likely saved $200 in labor.
Awesome! Glad this video helped!
I have done this same job on the same car, I would recommend just breaking the end link bar off of the ball joints of the end link. You can use a pry bar and it will just pop right off it's socket. then take a large vice grip and clamp the remaining ball portion of the stud from behind (this is what the allen keyed bolt is connected to from the front). Then you can just use your wrench to loosen as the vice grip will hold the stud from behind.
I’ll be doing this job tomorrow and your video + comments are super helpful. If I have trouble w/ the bolts, I will try popping the ball out of the socket and holding w/ vice grips as one of the comments recommended. Fingers crossed, all goes well…
Glad to help! I hope it went well!
I used a Moog replacement link that has grease fittings, and also eliminates the allen key requirement. Another thing I found that was helpful is to use a jack stand to support the vehicle weight and thus allowing the jack to be used to lift the control arm up and align the link studs into the holes. Thankfully, my replacement did not require a sawzall. I sprayed the nuts down a week in advance, as I live in the rust belt.
Moog makes a great product! And ya glad the job went well!
I’m getting a clunk up front on my GE8. I can’t help but think it’s struts but before I do that, I figure maybe replace the end links. I’m in the rust belt and terrified watching you have to grind it off. I had to do this on my Miata when I did my coils and it was a nightmare
If you cut this off from the back, you have to loosen the nut enough to get in front of the circular backing piece on sway bar link AKA (backing washer). If you don't cut in front of that circular backing piece (washer) then it won't fall out. That backing piece (washer) and nut on the stud pinch the strut point connection and or sway bar connection on the bottom. You might have an easier time cutting the bolt and nut from the front. I got lucky and used vice grips on the back and spun the nut off with an impact wrench. They were the OEM sway bar links after 10 years in the heart of the rust belt. I soaked them with PB Blaster a few days before I did the job.
Did your car need an alignment afterwards? Great video. Having to cut them off...that made it complicated. But, you won!
No! No need to align afterwards!
Dewalt Reciprocating Saw vs. Milwaukee Sawzall? These are both different items that do basically the same job to note.
So what’s the socket size needed?
Hi, do you know exactly what is the lenght of the stab link? Im seeing 300m 310m and 325m. We have thesame jazz model
I would just spray WD-40 on it and let it sit over night. Then use an impact gun to take off the bolts. I would put anti-seize on the threads of the new sway bar link too.
You can get lucky but usually not... like what happened here... The car also needed to be finished that day... and I agree with anti seize!
@Steve Ryan you nailed it! 👏
The fact that the stud of this fastener must be held with a allen wrench makes an impact useless. The stud will just spin. This job requires handtools.
Hey man I just came across your channel and I saw your PC build I want to get similar specs to the one you build can you provide me w an update on how is running so far?
Oh ya! And perfectly!! I edit and game on the pc almost everyday and its running amazingly!!!
Was there any specific reason why you replaced them?
They were loose and thus made like a knocking noise over bumps!
Please kill the music !!.
A pain in the butt. Make sure you have Tylenol handy afterwards.
Lol your not wrong...
Simply go to mechanic shop instead.
LOL if thats your mindset then I have no idea why your looking up DIY car videos 🤣
Will cost you $240 labor.
Endlinks are about $10 each on Rock Auto, it's 2 bolts man.