One has to realize why you do this. The Tascam 100 series decks sound and record amazing , and your thoughtful approach and attention to detail on these amazing decks is fascinating to watch.
You are a master technician. If you’re not you will be one very soon. I like how you took the time to really go over each step and rechecked your work thoroughly. I’m an owner of a Tascam 112 with a slowly moving door. From what I saw you do,it is a spring adjustment . If there’s more to it please let me know. Great video one of the best I’ve watched on RUclips.
Thank you very much, and thank you for watching. The door dampener uses friction grease and an o-ring. The small screw on the back is the adjustment, backing it out a bit should speed up the door for you.
I may be a bit late to the party, but I really enjoy your long vids. Like you I am a perfectionist and really love carefully repairing audio equipment. I realise you have made a vid on this transport before (after?) in great detail. To me that is what a video is for, seeing all the tiny little details is brilliant, never boring. I've not worked on a Tascam yet, but watching your meticulous repair work will be invaluable. Thank you for making the effort.
Thank you for the valuable feedback, Chris. It's difficult to learn what interests viewers from the Analytics because they're so random and ambiguous. I really appreciate comments regarding content and video length because I'm not trying to do the "RUclips Tutorial" thing, rather, just documenting how I do things, and hoping some of it might be helpful to others.
What you are doing is spatial and top of the arts for cassette machines - Respect for all that you are doing and sharing with tape fans , I never seen such love for these kind of media - All Respect |
@@asbcustom Hello, the repair went smoothly thanks to your video, the belt and gear wheel have been replaced. Is the motor speed control done in the motor or on the plate? Tascam112mk2. Regards.🙂👍🏻
@leszek albin Well done! It makes me happy when my video helps someone out. The capstan motor speed trimpot is under the left inner rack ear (I know, ridiculous placement), it will need to be removed for access. The top one is for the fixed speed and bottom for the variable pitch control. You probably won't need to change the setting on the bottom one.
That model is kinda a pain to service. Nice when it works fine but I've scrapped a couple because of issues from motors not working right to glitchy issues that just didn't wanna be fixed. The spindles motor is easy to replace the rubber tires on, but to change belts, it's a total complete teardown. Capstain motor has an odd setup through the pitch adjustment that can be very cantankerous. I've had some that pitched the speed when pitch was turned off. To get to the capstain belt for me the side had to come off, then your faced fighting the door release mechanism that always comes off the door. The wires break very easy too, and on every deck I fixed the wires always broke off the engagement motor terminals, i just made it a habit to cut em then solder back on when deck was done. I prefer the 122 or the 112 MK 2 as it's made much better. Many times easier to work on. Although my good one I pulled out of the closet to use, and in short, the gears turned crumbly. So now got to get new gears. Not sure what lousy plastic those were made of. Just one really that crumbled. The others are solid. Oh and the other thing is these the capstain motor runs all the time when a tape is loaded. The 112 MK2, motor runs only when play is engaged. Having a deck with a motor that is on the whole time machine is loaded just puts wear on it prematurely.
Interesting, I find them to be very well thought out and modular, with no plastic parts to break apart when touched, and without a million springs all wanting to fly off at the same time. Many of the leads are too small, yes. I also cut, and re-strip, I've shown this many times. The 122 is a much more difficult animal, as it's mostly hard-wired and not modular at all. Many more capacitors to replace and parts needing service, it's a totally different machine but built to last generations. I explain about the plastic "C" gear in several videos. The softer material is used to quiet down the noisy gear train, it's a common practice dating way back and is still done today. That part needs to be considered a standard maintenance item, like a belt or idler tire. I prefer the quieter operation of belts and idlers. The decks that run all the time, or when loaded, do wear components more quickly, yes. They are also typically made a bit more heavy duty and assume service will be done regularly. I've replaced as many motors on run only decks as I have the always on ones. Thanks for watching and commenting, I have other videos on these machines as well.
Nice and full in depth service !!!!!. One thing Im not getting not for the 112, but for many other great machines too ... why they dont bother at least to use a FG servo motor .... why just DC-Servo ? .... Nothing bad with them .... but they drift a bit as they age .... wouldnt this tape deck benefit from a proper FG motor (not even asking fo DD).
It might, I'm sure cost was a factor and also the idea that beyond a certain performance threshold, the ability to perceive drift is greatly diminished. I did some non-scientific testing on this one because it showed so little wear and found it incredibly stable after an hour or two of use, even slightly more so than it's direct drive brother, but the test was statistically insignificant of course.
@@asbcustom Thanks for your experience. As short term variations, DC-Servo is near perfect. But I noticed in several decks a bit of drift as time goes by .... I seen that criteria seems to be "GOOD" if below 1% ..... IMHO 1% could be noticeable in tracks you have listened a lot in the past. Not all of them. You named .... it is all down to cost factor .... but I have seen even more elaborated ones and even Nakas with this motors. It blows my mind. Sony offered FG servo even down to the TC-K33, TC-U2 .... I mean pretty entry level stuff .... NOW, we can discuss how they use the FG ouput and the servo BOARD. I dont understand completely how they can take advantage of it with such simple circuits (like they are integrating a constant and correcting the DC .... ) They forgot a PLL ... LOL. They even put FG servo on their mid to top line Boomboxes .... But this was the end of the 70s ..
It might also be a factor that the motors were so plentiful and inexpensive at the time, that swapping out a new one was the more simple service solution. 10-20 years earlier, a technician would service something by disassembling and rebuilding, then the practice of parts swapping became the norm and we lost something very valuable to cost and convenience. The 112mkll uses a thermistor in the motor speed circuit, why this one and not the earlier model? I believe it's for temperature stabilization. There are many mechanical considerations as well, the large diameter, heavy, balanced flywheels of many decks can do much better than 1% when everything else is adjusted properly. Think of the guys running granite turntables off of remote motors, using long silk threads for their drive belts.
The guy who used to do service for Teac/Tascam in NJ works out of his house and they charge $175 + parts and shipping but is it possible to do this all yourself? I have two machines our of six that I have identified as fix-able. I have been told that motors are no longer available.
Firstly, thank you for watching Andy. Secondly, I can't say if anyone else can, or can't, do this service, only you know that answer for certain. The motors are not available from Teac, no. There can be found new old stock on occasion, some motors can be successfully rebuilt, and there is another option for an upgraded replacement that is best done by a tech. I wouldn't necessarily scrap your four other decks though, unless they're terribly damaged, most things can be dealt with, it's a simple matter of time and money.
I own Teac reel decks; Tascam cassette decks and cd machines as well as OTARI reel decks. These are not consumer grade but I feel like they last longer.
They certainly do last longer, they were engineered for professional use and with serviceability in mind. Otaris are well made and can sound excellent with some upgrades and a thorough service. I particularly like the front panel calibration controls and heavy-duty build. I think I probably own half a dozen and only one is totally unusable at this time.
HI, I have a Phase Linear 7000 cassette player and I'm going to service the transport also. If I have any questions in the servicing beside the above video above that you might be able to advise me with. Will you be willing to help ? Great Transport service above thanks !
I use M-kote EM-30L for the cam surface and Krytox for the axle. M-kote: www.amazon.com/Corning-Molykote-Synthetic-Lubricant-Container/dp/B00B51C76I Krytox: www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLD67O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=E81SXMJFNI7D&keywords=krytox&qid=1647641432&s=industrial&sprefix=krytox%2Cindustrial%2C448&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSEIyTU5VUjNLWksyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTQ3MjIyRVdNVkxONUVWTUNOJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyODM5NzcyUDJZODU1NVJaVEtVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== The control motor front bearing is sintered bronze, I like NyOil for those. NyOil: www.amazon.com/Nye-Lubricants-NyOil-Thin-Lubricant/dp/B000B600L2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1Q41DFREVFTWO&keywords=nyoil&qid=1647641706&s=industrial&sprefix=nyoil%2Cindustrial%2C458&sr=1-1-catcorr
You're very welcome and good luck on the project, that's an excellent sounding deck. I should also add that I use Isoflex DPD65 for the capstan bearings, I buy it from Peter Mony at Nagravox because I trust that I'm getting the actual product: nagravox.com/collections/all/products/revox-studer-a77-pr99-b77-a700-c270-b67a810-5ml-capstan-lubricant-oil-pdp65
@@asbcustom Gracias iba a preguntar lo mismo, tengo tres Deck, mi preferido es el TASCAM 122 MK2, un Pioneer CT-F950 y un Technics RS-M260, pero de todos el mejor es el TASCAM, voy a comprar esas grasas y aceite para hacerles un mantenimiento a mis Deck, sobre todo el que mas necesita mantenimiento es el Pioneer.😊
It is not Sankyo, look at this timeframe and you'll see the Mabuchi logo and part number: ruclips.net/video/V5hIWKlvzUU/видео.html, it's only a few minutes in.
If you're asking me, I say go for it. If you win, you save a couple bucks, if you lose, you get to discover what your guy's hourly shop rate is to repair your screw-ups.
hi am finding sony betacam sp decks are the same jamming up parts i have a mate with a tascam deck with low hours i have betacam sp decks with low hrs as well i have a tascam 238 i have done alot of rework on the servo as the caps were changed still paying up so i had to pul out the old servo and put in a drive belt drive i say it not playing up any more 100% fixed i have worked on alot of cassette deck the tascam 238 was the only one that was hard to fix i will say the recording is super bob
One has to realize why you do this. The Tascam 100 series decks sound and record amazing , and your thoughtful approach and attention to detail on these amazing decks is fascinating to watch.
You are a master technician. If you’re not you will be one very soon. I like how you took the time to really go over each step and rechecked your work thoroughly. I’m an owner of a Tascam 112 with a slowly moving door. From what I saw you do,it is a spring adjustment . If there’s more to it please let me know. Great video one of the best I’ve watched on RUclips.
Thank you very much, and thank you for watching.
The door dampener uses friction grease and an o-ring. The small screw on the back is the adjustment, backing it out a bit should speed up the door for you.
Thank you for your rapid response and I will follow your advice because I know you truly know what you’re doing
I may be a bit late to the party, but I really enjoy your long vids. Like you I am a perfectionist and really love carefully repairing audio equipment. I realise you have made a vid on this transport before (after?) in great detail. To me that is what a video is for, seeing all the tiny little details is brilliant, never boring. I've not worked on a Tascam yet, but watching your meticulous repair work will be invaluable. Thank you for making the effort.
Thank you for the valuable feedback, Chris. It's difficult to learn what interests viewers from the Analytics because they're so random and ambiguous. I really appreciate comments regarding content and video length because I'm not trying to do the "RUclips Tutorial" thing, rather, just documenting how I do things, and hoping some of it might be helpful to others.
What you are doing is spatial and top of the arts for cassette machines - Respect for all that you are doing and sharing with tape fans , I never seen such love for these kind of media - All Respect |
Thank you Stiv, I really appreciate that.
Thanks so much for doing this - really brilliant video,, so well shot and well explained - I thought the length was fine - fascinating to watch 🙂
Thank you for watching and your very kind comments!
What does the "B" signify on the 112B ? These videos are always an inspiration for me to work patiently and cut no corners.
The "B" adds the balance amp for studio level inputs and outputs.
Thank you for watching and your valued comments, I really appreciate it.
I just bought a damaged one. The mechanics do not work and three LEDs are on. I think your demo video will help me fix it. 🙂👍🏻
Thank you for watching, I hope you get it up and running again. Good luck!
@@asbcustom Hello, the repair went smoothly thanks to your video, the belt and gear wheel have been replaced. Is the motor speed control done in the motor or on the plate? Tascam112mk2. Regards.🙂👍🏻
@leszek albin Well done! It makes me happy when my video helps someone out. The capstan motor speed trimpot is under the left inner rack ear (I know, ridiculous placement), it will need to be removed for access. The top one is for the fixed speed and bottom for the variable pitch control. You probably won't need to change the setting on the bottom one.
That model is kinda a pain to service. Nice when it works fine but I've scrapped a couple because of issues from motors not working right to glitchy issues that just didn't wanna be fixed. The spindles motor is easy to replace the rubber tires on, but to change belts, it's a total complete teardown. Capstain motor has an odd setup through the pitch adjustment that can be very cantankerous. I've had some that pitched the speed when pitch was turned off. To get to the capstain belt for me the side had to come off, then your faced fighting the door release mechanism that always comes off the door. The wires break very easy too, and on every deck I fixed the wires always broke off the engagement motor terminals, i just made it a habit to cut em then solder back on when deck was done. I prefer the 122 or the 112 MK 2 as it's made much better. Many times easier to work on. Although my good one I pulled out of the closet to use, and in short, the gears turned crumbly. So now got to get new gears. Not sure what lousy plastic those were made of. Just one really that crumbled. The others are solid. Oh and the other thing is these the capstain motor runs all the time when a tape is loaded. The 112 MK2, motor runs only when play is engaged. Having a deck with a motor that is on the whole time machine is loaded just puts wear on it prematurely.
Interesting, I find them to be very well thought out and modular, with no plastic parts to break apart when touched, and without a million springs all wanting to fly off at the same time.
Many of the leads are too small, yes. I also cut, and re-strip, I've shown this many times.
The 122 is a much more difficult animal, as it's mostly hard-wired and not modular at all. Many more capacitors to replace and parts needing service, it's a totally different machine but built to last generations.
I explain about the plastic "C" gear in several videos. The softer material is used to quiet down the noisy gear train, it's a common practice dating way back and is still done today. That part needs to be considered a standard maintenance item, like a belt or idler tire. I prefer the quieter operation of belts and idlers.
The decks that run all the time, or when loaded, do wear components more quickly, yes. They are also typically made a bit more heavy duty and assume service will be done regularly. I've replaced as many motors on run only decks as I have the always on ones.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I have other videos on these machines as well.
Nice and full in depth service !!!!!. One thing Im not getting not for the 112, but for many other great machines too ... why they dont bother at least to use a FG servo motor .... why just DC-Servo ? .... Nothing bad with them .... but they drift a bit as they age .... wouldnt this tape deck benefit from a proper FG motor (not even asking fo DD).
It might, I'm sure cost was a factor and also the idea that beyond a certain performance threshold, the ability to perceive drift is greatly diminished. I did some non-scientific testing on this one because it showed so little wear and found it incredibly stable after an hour or two of use, even slightly more so than it's direct drive brother, but the test was statistically insignificant of course.
@@asbcustom Thanks for your experience. As short term variations, DC-Servo is near perfect. But I noticed in several decks a bit of drift as time goes by .... I seen that criteria seems to be "GOOD" if below 1% ..... IMHO 1% could be noticeable in tracks you have listened a lot in the past. Not all of them. You named .... it is all down to cost factor .... but I have seen even more elaborated ones and even Nakas with this motors. It blows my mind. Sony offered FG servo even down to the TC-K33, TC-U2 .... I mean pretty entry level stuff .... NOW, we can discuss how they use the FG ouput and the servo BOARD. I dont understand completely how they can take advantage of it with such simple circuits (like they are integrating a constant and correcting the DC .... ) They forgot a PLL ... LOL. They even put FG servo on their mid to top line Boomboxes .... But this was the end of the 70s ..
It might also be a factor that the motors were so plentiful and inexpensive at the time, that swapping out a new one was the more simple service solution. 10-20 years earlier, a technician would service something by disassembling and rebuilding, then the practice of parts swapping became the norm and we lost something very valuable to cost and convenience.
The 112mkll uses a thermistor in the motor speed circuit, why this one and not the earlier model? I believe it's for temperature stabilization. There are many mechanical considerations as well, the large diameter, heavy, balanced flywheels of many decks can do much better than 1% when everything else is adjusted properly. Think of the guys running granite turntables off of remote motors, using long silk threads for their drive belts.
I’d really like to ask, where do you recommend I buy the replacement belts and tires and C- gear?
The 112b doesn't have a "c" gear. I sell the idler tires here: www.ebay.com/itm/234128158021
The guy who used to do service for Teac/Tascam in NJ works out of his house and they charge $175 + parts and shipping but is it possible to do this all yourself? I have two machines our of six that I have identified as fix-able. I have been told that motors are no longer available.
Firstly, thank you for watching Andy. Secondly, I can't say if anyone else can, or can't, do this service, only you know that answer for certain. The motors are not available from Teac, no. There can be found new old stock on occasion, some motors can be successfully rebuilt, and there is another option for an upgraded replacement that is best done by a tech. I wouldn't necessarily scrap your four other decks though, unless they're terribly damaged, most things can be dealt with, it's a simple matter of time and money.
It would be cool if we could send in our transports to you for service
I do it this way all the time, Ed. Happy to do yours as well.
I own Teac reel decks; Tascam cassette decks and cd machines as well as OTARI reel decks. These are not consumer grade but I feel like they last longer.
They certainly do last longer, they were engineered for professional use and with serviceability in mind. Otaris are well made and can sound excellent with some upgrades and a thorough service. I particularly like the front panel calibration controls and heavy-duty build. I think I probably own half a dozen and only one is totally unusable at this time.
HI, I have a Phase Linear 7000 cassette player and I'm going to service the transport also. If I have any questions in the servicing beside the above video above that you might be able to advise me with. Will you be willing to help ? Great Transport service above thanks !
Thank you for your comments.
The PL 7000 is an excellent deck but I have no experience with them, good luck though, let me know how it turns out.
@@asbcustom I will let you know Peter, and thanks again for the video above it will be a excellent help in getting me started.
Also can you provide the names of the oils and grease that were used thanks again Peter.
I use M-kote EM-30L for the cam surface and Krytox for the axle.
M-kote: www.amazon.com/Corning-Molykote-Synthetic-Lubricant-Container/dp/B00B51C76I
Krytox: www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLD67O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=E81SXMJFNI7D&keywords=krytox&qid=1647641432&s=industrial&sprefix=krytox%2Cindustrial%2C448&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSEIyTU5VUjNLWksyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTQ3MjIyRVdNVkxONUVWTUNOJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyODM5NzcyUDJZODU1NVJaVEtVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
The control motor front bearing is sintered bronze, I like NyOil for those.
NyOil: www.amazon.com/Nye-Lubricants-NyOil-Thin-Lubricant/dp/B000B600L2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1Q41DFREVFTWO&keywords=nyoil&qid=1647641706&s=industrial&sprefix=nyoil%2Cindustrial%2C458&sr=1-1-catcorr
@@asbcustom Thanks for the info and for sharing this video my friend.
You're very welcome and good luck on the project, that's an excellent sounding deck.
I should also add that I use Isoflex DPD65 for the capstan bearings, I buy it from Peter Mony at Nagravox because I trust that I'm getting the actual product: nagravox.com/collections/all/products/revox-studer-a77-pr99-b77-a700-c270-b67a810-5ml-capstan-lubricant-oil-pdp65
@@asbcustom Gracias iba a preguntar lo mismo, tengo tres Deck, mi preferido es el TASCAM 122 MK2, un Pioneer CT-F950 y un Technics RS-M260, pero de todos el mejor es el TASCAM, voy a comprar esas grasas y aceite para hacerles un mantenimiento a mis Deck, sobre todo el que mas necesita mantenimiento es el Pioneer.😊
What is the type of the capstan motor? It doesn't look to be the Sankyo, but rather a Mabuchi.
It is not Sankyo, look at this timeframe and you'll see the Mabuchi logo and part number: ruclips.net/video/V5hIWKlvzUU/видео.html, it's only a few minutes in.
@@asbcustom Indeed a Mabuchi. Weird, as the Tascam 112 has a Sankyo. Perhaps the specs are the same. Thanks so much 👍
@@KPsTboy The 112 is exactly the same as the 112b.
Very useful, thxs
Thank you for watching.
Guy I know wants $175 + parts. This is out of my element, but is it worth it to save the money?
If you're asking me, I say go for it. If you win, you save a couple bucks, if you lose, you get to discover what your guy's hourly shop rate is to repair your screw-ups.
I’ve seen them on Reverb as much as $75.00
hi am finding sony betacam sp decks are the same jamming up parts i have a mate with a tascam deck with low hours
i have betacam sp decks with low hrs as well i have a tascam 238 i have done alot of rework on the servo as the caps were changed still paying up so i had to pul out the old
servo and put in a drive belt drive i say it not playing up any more 100% fixed
i have worked on alot of cassette deck the tascam 238 was the only one that was hard to fix
i will say the recording is super bob
Thank you for your comments Bob!