Видео

Not to worry, I'm satisfied with my solution.

Thanks Nelson!

Well, those dimensions don't make sense but okay. Let me know how you like the Chinese rubber.

I got some from over there for the JVC DD-7 and DD-99 - I have my doubts too but we'll see.

I e-mailed a supplier some time ago asking about custom manufacturing these to my spec., I did not get a reply, Maybe I'll try again.

Yes you would. Hope you enjoy following along, it's fun doing it this way. Years before RUclips, I had a "Current Projects" page on my old Website where clients could watch the progress with a slideshow sort of thing. It was a lot of work, but I liked doing it.

@@asbcustom I'm glad you found the broken part.

@@asbcustom Your meticulous attention to detail is greatly appreciated.

It helped, it gave me a length without needing to figure it out from scratch.

No kidding. Was the door broken as well?

@@asbcustom 😂 No, it's fine.

That's great. Not to brag, but mine has a better door latch post. :)

Thank you for that, I appreciate it. Did lapping solve your problem then?

@@asbcustom yes.10 Times playing Type 1 Tapes now Drops only 2 dB at max.Before lapping highs Drops about 5 to 7 dB playing the Tape 3 Times.Lapping was Made by a German Guy,but i don't remember his Name 😔

Thank you, that's valuable information.

Thank you for watching. I've mentioned it a few times. I use dish soap, warm water, and a soft brass brush, the kind available at welding supply houses. Never sandpaper, never, ever. Scotch-brite might do in a pinch, but the brass brush is better. For maintenance after I have it resurfaced, I use S-721H from American Recorder. IPA is also fine, if you question it, just look at a chemical comparability chart, it's recommended. Naphtha swells the rubber and makes it appear to work for a time but is short-lived. Rubber Renew works, but again, it's a temporary solution and once things get to that point, a better solution is needed or you'll be Rubber Renewing yourself into the poor house.

Thanks Steve, that's good information. I looked inside for the broken post but no luck, That's okay, I have a plan to make it better than new, stay tuned.

@@asbcustom Thanks. You know I will.

Right, and I never place "Fragile" or "Handle With Care" labels either because they act like a dare to US shippers.

@@asbcustom 😆Its true.

I know, eBay can be a nightmare sometimes. I don't think it's low level intelligence as much as it's high level indifference.

Yasu, Peter! 🤝 Unfortunately, here in Russia, this is also not uncommon!@@asbcustom

I bought a receiver and tuner a few years ago. The tuner was sitting on top of the receiver with nothing in between them. The packing material was crumpled up newspaper. The housing on the receiver was bent and scratched badly. I submitted a return request. The seller offered to refund 80 of my purchase to keep it, so I did. I got most of the dents out of the cover and painted it. It just recently gave up the ghost. Common sense isn't so common anymore.

@@MrSteney Exactly, common sense isn't.

Edit: It was an integrated amplifier, not a receiver. Hence the separate tuner.

It doesn't matter but I think I did capture both holes before soldering.

@@asbcustom I attempted to go in and lube the motor up to see if that would fix the flutter issue and now the motor wont spin after a couple turns when I hit play and just stops. Not sure what I did I was very neat and didn’t do much in there. Have you ever experienced this after working on a motor? Thanks for the feedback

@@Pb_salt No, I haven't. The brushes may have damaged.

@@asbcustomI don’t understand how when you pulled the motor apart, the little plastic washer that sits on top of the commutator didn’t get pulled off the shaft and stuck behind the brushed like mine, it didn’t seem like you moved the brushes or anything. Magic.

@@Pb_salt That washer is also a spacer for the commutator segments, the brushes need to be spread out prior to removal. I have another video here, I think the camera angles are a bit better: ruclips.net/video/75qcUIB2Wr8/видео.html

Absolutely.

Thank you for watching. On the 122mk2, the motor PCB requires recapping, and the transport a full overhaul. I have several videos detailing the entire process, it's different from the 112mk2 in this video.

@@asbcustom Thanks very much 👍

You're very welcome.

Thank you so much!

Thank you for watching!

Thanks for watching!

It is not Sankyo, look at this timeframe and you'll see the Mabuchi logo and part number: ruclips.net/video/V5hIWKlvzUU/видео.html, it's only a few minutes in.

@@asbcustom Indeed a Mabuchi. Weird, as the Tascam 112 has a Sankyo. Perhaps the specs are the same. Thanks so much 👍

@@KPsTboy The 112 is exactly the same as the 112b.

Thank you for watching!

It got stuck? It doesn't move now?

first of all thanks for the immediate answer.actually it is not completly stuck but the assemble doesn'tswing between either reel to have proper engagement. i mean it is free to move but it doesn't,even when you change the direction of the tape by pressing ffw or rw or play button.once more thanks for your support.

"it is free to move but it doesn't", this confuses me. Can you upload a video? Have you changed the idler tire?

@@asbcustom hi peter,thanks for the follow up,idler tire is in good shape (according to your video)diameter is 17mm,i have no skills to upload video,may i send it to your email address if you have one?rgds

@@asbcustom thanks for the follow up,th idler wheel,according to your video,is in good shape (17 mm diameter).i have no skills to upload video,may i send it to your emai address if you have one?thanks.rgds

That's a really good idea!

@@asbcustom I have mine packed up. I meant to say, you can film the unboxing of that for other people to see how to do it properly. Then I remembered how meticulous you are and you'd probably have even better ways than I do.

I like it, let's do it!

The point is to upgrade to new, higher quality components. ESR is absolutely lower, and by quite a bit, but ESR isn't everything.

@@asbcustom а что ещё важно в электролитическом конденсаторе кроме номинальной ёмкости и ESR ?

Age

@@asbcustom тоесть новые просто красивее поэтому и меняем :)

I think 1978 was my first real speaker purchase. They were Dunlavy designed, second quality prototypes, not suitable for resale (as I was told). John's shop was a few miles away before he moved to Colorado, I think it was. They were affordable I guess, but I still had to borrow the money for them. I'm crazy about packing as well, I've never seen any reason to assume that the packages won't be drop-kicked, smashed, or otherwise abused. Applying a "Fragile" sticker is like a dare, I never do it. I've had a couple of small packages lost, but like you, never arrive damaged.

@@asbcustom I always print my own labels on printer paper in Verdana font: DO NOT DROP OR STACK - FRAGILE. I take a photo of the parcel right in front of the clerk at drop off. Now I have proof of what it looked like before shipping. I've noticed UPS has started making it very hard to file a damage claim. You basically have to pay for the shipping with a credit card (I use AMEX ONLY) and file a dispute to get their attention.

Those packing peanuts are the worst, something will always get damaged with them. I'd put seller response at about 10%. They say they understand the request, then pack the same way they would have in any event, sort of like a builder. Have you ever watched "Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House"? The scene where the wife is telling the builder her requests for the room colors? That's my experience with eBay.

Nice to hear from you Vadim! Indeed yes, plywood is the best. Hope all is well with you and yours.

@@asbcustom Thanks Peter! I’m also very glad to see you on RUclips!.. Yes, everything is fine with me and my family! I hope everything is fine with you too? Most importantly, be healthy and as we say: Siberian health to you and Caucasian longevity!!!💪🤝

Siberia sounds good right now, it's in the 100's here! We say "να τα εκατοστήσεισ!"

@@asbcustom 😂👍👍👍

Thank you for watching!

It's frustrating, my goal is to return these machines performing, and looking like new. They're not getting any more plentiful.

Thank you for watching. I have some questions: Was it like this before you swapped heads? Has it been fully aligned? Has it been calibrated? The answers will help know what to eliminate.

@@asbcustom thank ou so much, actually I did full work on aligment with gauge etc (tilt/azimuth /heigt )all seem perfect but I istalled this head in a Pioneer CT F1250, the electronic of the 1250 fit this head perfectly for Pla Back that I aligned with a cal Tape,(trustable one ) Right channel 100<Hz to 12KHz flat (+-0.5db) but the left track shows a significant loss that seems coming from the head, i see it when I intervert the wires left right... is there an test ou could suggest?

There are many details I still don't know, like how it behaved before you changed the heads, if you've looked with a mirror tape to see if it's tracking correctly (it could be curling on the guide), if the problem is playback, record, or both, etc. If you only suspect the head, then an induction test would tell you a lot.

@@asbcustom yes the problem is only on playback.., before I change head, the problem was that the head was totally shot, this is the reason why i replaced it( it was loosing highs starting from 2Khz on two channels) yes, I really used a mirror cassette to settle a perfect tape path, it is consistent and with no tape deviation or frequency bounce even in HF.. so ou would suggest i connect an inductance meter to eacxh channel of th head right? and mesure the Inductance of each channel?

@@asbcustom Left PB : 568mH Right PB : 623mH , does that help to explain what' s wrong? man thanks

It has one capstan belt.

Thank you for watching. Your flashing lights are indicative of a broken "C" gear. This is a known maintenance item on this machine and well documented, I've included its repair in several videos. It could possibly be other control errors but this is by far the most common. It’s definitely worth repairing, these are great decks and will last generations if cared for. All the best.

I think your best chance is on ebay.

Thank you!

From Teac America.

@@asbcustom thanx, I've only found used ones on eBay for 200$

There is an eBay seller with new old stock ones available, price is about the same as Teac's. I can post a part number when I get back to the shop.

@@asbcustom thanx

Updated part #5801585410.

Thank you for watching. Microscope is old-school Nikon Optiphot set up for metallurgy, and from 50x-400x. Head profiles are confirmed on an optical comparator and shown at this point in the video: ruclips.net/video/ApgL5WCFwmw/видео.htmlsi=-79So1naAFAf2FPW&t=3854

Thank you!

DolbyS requires perfect alignment, then it works well. I don't personally use any noise reduction when originating content, but many people like it. When we were kids and driving loud cars, we would record with B then not use it on playback, so we could hear the treble over the motor and exhaust. Thanks for watching and Χριστός Ανέστη!.

Thanks for watching. These machines we originally designed for the professional radio, and other studio markets, where tapes are frequently swapped, and they were in loops at higher levels than consumer decks. It's customary in those environments to include level and eq tones on the tape that the engineer could reference. These studios also had their own reference tapes of course, where consumers typically did not. When I set these up, I either put a small red dot on the "normal" reference point, or simply clock the output knob exactly on the "7". There's a full explanation in the 122mk2 user manual and probably others. I can post the text if you like.

@@asbcustom Thank you for this detailed reply. Yes that makes sense. I have been testing tapes , and taking note of the level. Then playing in the Tascam 112 and comparing. Nominal output was right around 7 on the output knob as you stated. Another tape was a little more account tape type I’m guessing. I was able to find that Tascam 112 Mk2 user manual. There was also an interesting article written on the Tascam 112 Mk1 in “Sound On Sound , April 1987. Found out how to operate it because it’s different than the others. The manual for this Mk1 is locked up and can’t get from archives it seems. Thanks again, and the analyzer is true gold cool.

I just checked and the archives are still accessible here: www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/tascam/112.shtml If you're on a VPN, you will probably have to pause it in order to log in.

@@asbcustom Hi , the hifiengine site is locked to new registrations It’s been like this for sometime I think. This is the message - Sorry, but due to abuse of our free service, the registration system has been permanently disabled. While we work on a solution to this issue, the service remains open for existing members only

I didn't know that. I can forward it to you if you'll send your e-mail from the link.

That's fine for the carbon track but it dissolves the grease on the shaft and will eventually gall.

Only for troubleshooting and never on belts. It's a temporary fix at best.

@@asbcustom Yes, it's not a permanent fix, but it's effective, I find!

I don't really do things that way, it's not my particular idiom. I'll find a way that I'm happy to put my name on, otherwise I won't do the job.

@@asbcustom Ok, just a thought! I got a new idler tyre for my DRM-22, but it was a slightly loose fit. I ended up putting some tape in the groove to pack it out in the same way as your plastic spacer.

That works. I used the spacer to increase the outside diameter, the tire was already a snug fit.

@@asbcustom Aha, ok.

I have these in stock and plan to list them when I get a chance. If you need one now, I'll send it to you.

@@asbcustom Thanks, it should fit in my DRM-22

They made several in the 80's, good machines those, and easy to work on.

@@asbcustom My DRM-22 is a belt drive, and I think so is the DRM-33. I guess the DRM-44 is direct drive.

That's correct.

Thank you!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you so much!

You're very welcome, glad I could help.

@@asbcustom I can't find your ebay sales and I also have a Denon DRS-810 that I may want you to service. I didn't see any cassete player links on the website, can you help?

@@chef223399 You may use the contact link on my Website to send a message, it comes to me directly. Thank you.

Thanks for watching!

Not currently with my own equipment, but there are others with dedicated machines who produce them. Excellent alignment tapes can be purchased from A.N.T. Audio, Gennlabs, HPR Audio, and possibly others of whom I'm unaware. Thank you for watching.