Use an automatic bell syphon and run until the dam level drops. You need to change propellers to one that automatically starts your motor once the syphon starts. This will allow you to automate the process and charge at 45 volts open current at 30 minutes intermittently throughout the day.
45VDC open circuit from a meter or so drop isn't too bad. I was getting about 120 from 2.5, but with a much flatter pitched runner, which you might also want to try as it should trade off some torque for higher revs. Usually for maximum efficiency you want to run your system at half its open rpms, so whatever amps halves your volts. This would also mean half the volume per second, so might also resolve the issue of draining your supply.
Your head is from the top of the pond to the top of the water in the bucket. You can increase your head by raising the pond or lowering the water level at exit. You can easily check this by removing the down spout after your generator.
@@LandtoHouse by reducing the pipe, wouldn't it also reduce the flow? creating a longer reserve of water ? at the 10 minute mark, i realized you already answered my question.
This was useful. I had a off grid cabin that a few friends and I built near a small lake and creek. I thought of a hydro solution that you might be able to use as well. self starting syphons. I had started bringing up electric lighting to end the headlamps, candles and lanterns indoors vibe. I started with auto parts store 12V dome lights and a 7A gel cell battery I would bring up fully charged. I then wired it for 120v lights and plugs to use my 500W Honda Generator. I built a small gen shed on stilts about 80' away near the creek to mask the noise and used an extension cord. Yes, I had a plug-in cabin. I upgraded to 30W solar panel and bought a deep cycle battery. The next step would have been hydro, but there just wasn't enough flow in the creek. Then I learned about self starting syphons and it occurred to me that I could have a system that would periodically run, charging batteries and draining the lake a foot or so before recycling until the lake filled again. In rainy times, it would always run or you could stop it cycling with a valve so you could run it when you wanted 120v power for a while. I hadn't seen these small 120v units before and so 12v too far away was the obstacle for me.
Great tests, Seth! I think this turbine is designed to be 4” all the way. As seen, the reducer to 2” limited flow to the point that it didn’t even fill the inlet side. Even if it did fill, that impeller’s efficiency is not anywhere near peak at that flow rate or water velocity in the 4”. I think a system composed entirely of 2” and impeller to match would get you better results on this waterfall if you want sustained operation. All the best!
Alright, after careful consideration over the past few days, I'd like to share an intriguing idea. Imagine having a deep well from which water is siphoned out and then efficiently channeled back into the well. However, before the water is returned, it is temporarily stored in a tank, creating a valuable reservoir of readily available water for various purposes. This innovative approach allows us to harness potentially unlimited water resources while also presenting an exciting opportunity to generate sustainable electricity.
you can use a MPPT charge controller. this will step up your lower supply voltage high enough to charge you batteries. Also At some point I would look at getting a higher head drop, maybe by pulling water from the top pond and dropping your discharge more. great content and thanks
A few observations... First, replace the bucket with a down pipe long enough to go all the way into the water at the bottom of the waterfall. This will maximize your power since that's determined by height difference between the surface of the water in the upper pond and the surface of the water in the bucket (or the pool at the bottom) Second, your charge controller will not maximize the output of that generator. (Unless I'm mistaken, it's PWM at best and not MPPT.) All it will do is "short" the generator to the voltage of the battery you're connecting it to. For example, if you're generating 40V DC during open circuit then dumping that directly into a 12V DC battery (as your current charge controller would do), the generator will stall to whatever RPM would equal 12V. (Let's say it'll make 2A at 12V for 24W total.) However, if you use an MPPT charge controller, it will allow the generator to run at a higher voltage and maximize the amount of power that gets into the battery. (Maybe 1.5A at 40V for 60W total) You can tell whether a charge controller is MPPT or PWM by seeing if it has a high power inductor coil inside. It'll look like a small donut with wires wrapped around and through it. It's maybe between 0.5 to 1.5 inches wide. If you've got one (or more) it's the better, MPPT style. They're worth it, trust me. Finally, once both ends of the pipe are permanently under water, you can put a tee and valve for your vacuum near the generator end of your upper horizontal pipe. This way, you can make and break the siphon in one place without going into the snake pit :)
Can you tell me what RPM that is spinning at? Since I made that impeller in that turbine I can provide some more information. It has an OD of 3.94" and an hub diameter of 1.94" and a pitch of 3.1". It will flow approximately .11gal/rev after you take out the thickness of the blades & fillets. I'm not sure how spencer attached the impeller on that shaft or if it's field-servicable since he specified a smooth bore and no mounting method. I could print an impeller with different specifications to lower the flow rate, either a steeper pitch or a larger hub diameter. Then again simply putting a load on it will reduce the flow.
Once I saw how quickly it drained the pond on the last video it was no surprise to me this set up would not be workable. I do like the trial and errors tho.
Hallow there instead of using the trial and method to test the relation ship between flow and voltage can I suggest the following , at the outlet of the system fit a throttle v/v and before that fit a flow meter ( many brands are available in the market) controlling water flow by throttling and counter check that
Hi I live in south jersey and wanted to have a water in my garden not connected pumped by my electric well pump. Can I place a hand pump in my garden and do it myself ? Is there any information you can give me or directions to a video? Thank you for your help.
What if you used 1 of your ram pumps from that bucket back up to the pond? to keep water level up longer in pond I am enjoying watching your progress, also am curious to see the same test you did but on the intake end
Wow, this is cool. I will have to look at the follow on videos. This system relies on water flow and pipe size to generate power. If I understand correctly your power generating device is at the top because the weight of the water doesn't matter and your limited to 32 feet of head. If it works like I think it does the 6 inch down pipe won't get you any more power. The power is limited to the power device pipe size and a max of 32 feet. I am looking forward to the follow up videos, time to go look. -MG
The four inc propellor should be on the side of the intake. The purpose is to create the fastest speed. Its the draw from the pull pushing out as much water as fast as possible. Push out the most water out that you can/ . That 37.5 volts will be double. Just saying. I love your shows. Kieran.
I guess you are using a LMS2430 charge controller. That has no Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) and uses simple PWM for charging the battery. That means you will need an input voltage well above the 14.4V for a fully charged 12V lead battery. Furthermore, you measured the open circuit voltage and that will drop under load. Pobably a change in the impeller design can increase rotation speed and hence voltage also in low-flow situation. Looking forward to your experiments with the generator under load!
What if you kept the 2 inch on the siphon and put another siphon on the dam before the one you are currently using. Would that not supply enough wattage to charge a battery after the dump load? That is both of them together
Hi Seth.First off, the outgoing needs to be equal to the incoming, which means flow measurement. A 2" intake will never fill a 4" pipe. The siphon won't work properly?, and a longer outtake with venturi would suit a two inch system..Obviously, the first thing you need is a pond with a greater surface area, not so much depth, but of course getting that drop is important. The other thing that winds me up is getting the water back to the pond, with minimal losses.Water ram or hose effect.I love what you are doing and it would be good if you can lay down some hard and fast rules.
Could you possibly pull water and exhaust it into the same pond. I think with the vacuum generated it could possibly work. You wouldn't have to worry about water levels. Just an idea maybe worth trying
Thank you. This one is from Langstons Alternative Power. I do not know the name. If you call or write that company Spencer will be more than happy to help! Nice guy.
im not sure how you feed the pond but is there a way to increase the water feed to the pond its self . more water feeding the pond area would fix the problem all around . could be a easy fix i dont know depends on what your using to fill the pond in the first place . you got a nice set up though . i tried to dam up a creek when i was a kid and got in alot of trouble for it . dnr dint like it much . needless to say i had to remove the dam lol .
Put large valve to bottom of pipe and water level sensor to bond. Then you can do automation what open that valve when there is enough water and close it when bond level drops too much. That allow you to do some over capacity to generator without getting air to siphon. Also you can use small amount of energy to suck air and water from that top pipe. For that you can use small vacuum pump or thin tuble. It prevents air accumulate to that pipe. Problem with thin tube is that you still need start it by suction. But after it starts it will carry small bubles away from top of that pipe.
If you has a series of 2 inch T's you would be able to open them all to pull all the air out of the top tube, then close all but 1 to test the 2 inch flow power
Hey Seth, your work is amazing! I do have one question, is it possible that the sucking pipe firstly goes from water up, 4-8 foot, then on the angle down we set generator and long pipe down? And is there any way we might do longer suck pipe - also longer "exhaust" pipe? How much vacuum power we can create from the exhaust pipe and keep long suck pipe running?
Interesting tests - your assumption on voltage was off because you based it on the change in diameter of the pipe not the change in cross sectional area. 4 inch to 2 inch is a drop to 1/4 cross sectional area - so volume flowrate would be of a similar magnitude (a little less reduction due to increased backpressure) so a drop to about 1/3 in voltage is about right. You may find that with the 3 inch reducer you may not need the bucket as the change in cross section will allow the pipe to back fill better and probably not let air in - worth a shot. Great video look forwards to the next tests..... ;)
Reducers Will speed the exit of the water but slow your motor. My only....complaint about this setup is like most modernization, it draw so much water, it hampers the beauty of the water fall.
That's kool in last video I was hoping to see this if diff size would slow the rate of water taken out of point would it make much of a difference if you removed the bucket if it's creating a little back pressure to slow it even more would it increase if the bucket is removed like blowing into a straw in a cup have to push harder to get air or fluid out
Too Cool. 45v, 37v,, the reducers give you the ability to balance the tradeoffs between water volume and power output. This would suggest a gate valve at the bottom of a permanent installation could be used to regulate it and ensure it does not overtake the water supply. Too bad the 2" reducer test still had air in the pipe invalidating the 14v reading. I hope you will try that one again, since it might still be a viable option. Practical Engineering's channel has a good video on "what is air lock". I would like to suggest a T and your vacuum fittings at the top intake to replace the elbow, instead of vacuuming at the bucket at the bottom for 2 reasons. It will solve the problem of getting all the air out of the runner pipe by vacuuming all the air out from the top instead of relying on the siphon to flush the air on its own, AND it leaves you up top with the test rig so you can pivot from starting the siphon to taking measurements immediately. Also it may be easier to break the siphon by opening a valve at the top instead of trying to twist off the elbow.
So if you put the small on the intake an the larger on the outer bcz the smaller the intake is the more pressure it brings into the pipe you need a bigger outer for the rush
Could you also pls record the part where the generator will slightly slowdown when load is applied? I was aftering the power output but I also love the sound of the generator from free spin to loaded
I'm Larry, I love on a tidal creek and have been watching your videos, along with barrel siphoning video. Are you aware of something that I may could construct with a low flow and low volume with the barrels?
Great video Seth!!! Does Spencer have another low head turbine I could buy? I have a good place I'd like to test one out. Looking forward to seeing your next video.
I know this version is his test turbine. He is gearing up to sell them. Its worth asking! Hey I was going to shout out your channel in a video soon. I like your work. Probably next weeks hydro video. You might get 100 or so subs :)
My neighbour is actually about to install a water wheel here. I need to get my tests done quickly! Might have to move to the other side of the pond To use the other waterfall.
@@LandtoHouse NICE place. Beautiful stone work. I'm going to ask today if it'd be legal to damn the creek that runs thru my place. Back until about the 1950s, it had been used/diverted? to power a stone barn/lumber/woolen mill
Excellent test for the flow rate, it is always better to throttle downstream on the reaction turbines, is the alternator 12volt nominal? The voltage with the turbine without load is of little use if not to determine only once how much it arrives, theoretically it should never get there if the pico hydro system is done well, the most suitable regulator in this case would be a constant load derivation, as for the wind, you probably don't need mppt, like the Flexcharge NC25A, simply test by varying the absorption at the output of the rectifier with non-led car bulbs of different power, the cheap and Chinese charge controllers often reached the voltage charge disconnect leaving the turbine to run free this in the long run causes breakdowns and mechanical stresses, other low-power solar controllers simply close in short the input of the panels, without a reference battery it is likely to burn it and it behaves badly, 14V is sufficient for lithium batteries and just over 15.5 / 16 volts during the monthly equalization for lead acid ones, first take advantage of the maximum jump possible bile, without exaggerating the cavity otherwise, i would have used a larger size up to the turbine to minimize losses. Ciao
Once under load the water consumption will be much lower because the turbine will be slowed down by the load. As such the limiting factor may not be the diameter of pipe, making these results invalid.
@@LandtoHouse Well they are valid, open flow (no load) measurements are critical to understanding its behavior before moving to a loaded test, else you won't know how the reducer versus the load affected the results. Good experimental method is to make only 1 change at a time between measurements, exactly what you are doing.
was about to ask the same question, ok so what if you split the pipe 1 onto 2 back into 1 ? i'm just thinking there is still energy in the given water, you need more power but don't want to syphon your dam dry(obviously) therefore how can you get more from what you have
@@arronjohnston742 im thinking one pipe whole time with one generator after the other but not horizontally but vertically so as to capatilize on gravity and the 8lbs per gallon of weight turning everything?>?>
@@energystoragesolutions6603 yeah i thought of that too but after thinking about what Seth said i think he is right, another inline would be a restriction to the first generator as it would make the water slow down and back up, spitting the pipe into a Y pipe wouldn't really restrict it as an inline system would, still would be interesting to see it all tested out for real.
@@arronjohnston742 I agreed to the testing either way. Either way if you split the pipe into two from one they will only be able to pull as much water as the inlet will allow, however if he reduces the output of the pipe to that of half of the inlet the generators would run as though one generator was getting the full benefit flow of the inlet size however it being split into two the generator will still only receive half of the available input
It may not be an issue with that short a draft tube, but with taller drops air can start coming back up from the outlet which constricts the flow and can potentially break the siphon. Have the outlet under water prevents this, and doesn't seem to provide significant back pressure.
i keep watching these late. but if you move your vacuum siphon valve higher and suck the water higher up the tube will create a higher vacuum. just got to the part where water supply could be a thing so increasing the water flow may drain it to fast.
If the alternator shaft is longer and the impeller is half way down the "down pipe" then it will become self-starting due tot he head of water above the impeller.
How funny! Whatever you do is just fine because your experimenting but I would have done it differently. Instead of building a platform to hold the bucket up, I would have put the bucket on the ground and extended the drop pipe to the bucket. I think that would have been less work and easier to just get more pipe. Maybe you'll get to that later to see how much the extra drop changes output and by how much. Cheers.
Not surprised, as you increase size the area grows quickly. I converted to cm's lol 2 inch, converted is 81.1 cm^2 3 inch converted is 181.5 cm^2 4 inch converted is 324.3 cm^2 Each inch more than doubles the area of flow, you can quickly see why the 2" had such a drop in output. I had this fun when building my hydroponics lol
@@LandtoHouse most likely not, if memory serves me tho, butting the restriction at the start should also give you different flow rates than putting it at the end. I think I am going to enjoy watching the tests etc, I don't have access to a flow of water.
Why not test the other direction and go from 4” just below the generator to 6”? In turbo charged systems on cars, when you are forcing more air through a pipe, the exhaust end needs to be bigger to reduce turbulence. The same can be said on this type of system as well. Also, consider having generators on each pond that matches the flow rate so as to take advantage of each section’s worth of water. (Not an in-line system. All separate)
People always amaze me that they just give you the volts and skip the amps. How are you going to calculate the watts without it. Its a half ass test, But cool to watch the changes even though not knowing all the important information.
I think you did wrong when you reduce the flow of water at the end of the pipe...In this way, as the same flow of water comes in as before, but less comes out, the water needs to run slower to have time to come out.. You should reduce at the entrance and in this way, the velocity will be the same, I think... Did you a test as I said? Have a video?
It doesn't matter. The speed and flow are the same throughout. It would help to increase the head (drop) by extending the bottom of the outlet pipe. That would increase speed and flow, providing more power.
@@LandtoHouse Looking forward to your power video! Btw. the available power from a waterfall is W = FR × g × h were FR is the Flow rate in mass per second (!!!), g is the gravitational acceleration on earth (9.81 m/s² in SI units), and h is the fall height. Example: If you have a flow rate of 100 liters per second (which is equal to 100 kg per seconds / I love SI units :-) ) at a hight of 1m (3.28 feet) then you can expect a maximum power of 981 Watts. Efficiency losses while conversion will reduce this significantly.
I spent a shit ton of time one night looking at the number for a 3 inch system I guessing to run a close system 600 gal of tank cap 300 up top and 300 at least 16' of drop away from the top supply tank, you need a tank and pump to return the waste or maybe just use a breather cap the plumbers put on top of washer drain lines, dumb ass breather cap can't remember their name... Betting you can make a ram pump that will not have any waste water using a breather cap just like the ones used on 2' washer drain line. I will work up a 1inch inline model, that will use the little 80v 300 mi/lamp micro hydro in lines, betting using 2 55 gal tanks, 1 inch lines ,(3) 80v 300 mil/amp in line micro/hydro to charge a 12v , maybe 24, batt pack it's all about the math in that link I just sent you( I know Talk is Cheap , Slowly Getting My shop together it's been a jacked last 1 1/2 year.. so thx for all you do keep up the good work man...!!! God Bless...!!!
ok thx that help but two thing how much water a min will a 3 inc system work and will never really know if a close system unit will work until you or I try and make one I think 3 inc pipesciencing.com/convert-pipe-size-gpm-5220428.htmls
Check out my Tools Tech and Gear channel:
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Thanks for watching!
Use an automatic bell syphon and run until the dam level drops. You need to change propellers to one that automatically starts your motor once the syphon starts. This will allow you to automate the process and charge at 45 volts open current at 30 minutes intermittently throughout the day.
Really enjoy your work
Thank you. This is a fun one.
Hats Off to whomever built the pond infrastructure. WOW!
45VDC open circuit from a meter or so drop isn't too bad. I was getting about 120 from 2.5, but with a much flatter pitched runner, which you might also want to try as it should trade off some torque for higher revs.
Usually for maximum efficiency you want to run your system at half its open rpms, so whatever amps halves your volts.
This would also mean half the volume per second, so might also resolve the issue of draining your supply.
I am looking forward to seeing if it drains the source with a load. As summer comes on the flow rate drops too.
Your head is from the top of the pond to the top of the water in the bucket. You can increase your head by raising the pond or lowering the water level at exit. You can easily check this by removing the down spout after your generator.
It was really cool to see how the turbine reacted to the changes. Very cool!
Thank you, very interesting test. I did not expect that, the amount of water coming down your creek isnt enough to load a battery!!
I think that whenever the battery is connected to the 45 V it will charge well. But this water won't sustain the flow for long.
@@LandtoHouse by reducing the pipe, wouldn't it also reduce the flow? creating a longer reserve of water ? at the 10 minute mark, i realized you already answered my question.
This was useful. I had a off grid cabin that a few friends and I built near a small lake and creek. I thought of a hydro solution that you might be able to use as well. self starting syphons. I had started bringing up electric lighting to end the headlamps, candles and lanterns indoors vibe. I started with auto parts store 12V dome lights and a 7A gel cell battery I would bring up fully charged. I then wired it for 120v lights and plugs to use my 500W Honda Generator. I built a small gen shed on stilts about 80' away near the creek to mask the noise and used an extension cord. Yes, I had a plug-in cabin. I upgraded to 30W solar panel and bought a deep cycle battery. The next step would have been hydro, but there just wasn't enough flow in the creek. Then I learned about self starting syphons and it occurred to me that I could have a system that would periodically run, charging batteries and draining the lake a foot or so before recycling until the lake filled again. In rainy times, it would always run or you could stop it cycling with a valve so you could run it when you wanted 120v power for a while. I hadn't seen these small 120v units before and so 12v too far away was the obstacle for me.
Great tests, Seth! I think this turbine is designed to be 4” all the way. As seen, the reducer to 2” limited flow to the point that it didn’t even fill the inlet side. Even if it did fill, that impeller’s efficiency is not anywhere near peak at that flow rate or water velocity in the 4”.
I think a system composed entirely of 2” and impeller to match would get you better results on this waterfall if you want sustained operation.
All the best!
In the next video we get a power rating with full open 4" pipe. Let's just say we will be stepping up the down pipe to 6".
Alright, after careful consideration over the past few days, I'd like to share an intriguing idea. Imagine having a deep well from which water is siphoned out and then efficiently channeled back into the well. However, before the water is returned, it is temporarily stored in a tank, creating a valuable reservoir of readily available water for various purposes. This innovative approach allows us to harness potentially unlimited water resources while also presenting an exciting opportunity to generate sustainable electricity.
You still have possibility to increase the head. It would be interesting to observe the changes. Buy the way. I have my 50'th birthday today.
Happy Birthday. I'm hitting 40 for the 5th time this year.
@@iamgriff thanks. Happy birthday to you too!
you can use a MPPT charge controller. this will step up your lower supply voltage high enough to charge you batteries. Also At some point I would look at getting a higher head drop, maybe by pulling water from the top pond and dropping your discharge more. great content and thanks
A few observations...
First, replace the bucket with a down pipe long enough to go all the way into the water at the bottom of the waterfall. This will maximize your power since that's determined by height difference between the surface of the water in the upper pond and the surface of the water in the bucket (or the pool at the bottom)
Second, your charge controller will not maximize the output of that generator. (Unless I'm mistaken, it's PWM at best and not MPPT.) All it will do is "short" the generator to the voltage of the battery you're connecting it to. For example, if you're generating 40V DC during open circuit then dumping that directly into a 12V DC battery (as your current charge controller would do), the generator will stall to whatever RPM would equal 12V. (Let's say it'll make 2A at 12V for 24W total.) However, if you use an MPPT charge controller, it will allow the generator to run at a higher voltage and maximize the amount of power that gets into the battery. (Maybe 1.5A at 40V for 60W total) You can tell whether a charge controller is MPPT or PWM by seeing if it has a high power inductor coil inside. It'll look like a small donut with wires wrapped around and through it. It's maybe between 0.5 to 1.5 inches wide. If you've got one (or more) it's the better, MPPT style. They're worth it, trust me.
Finally, once both ends of the pipe are permanently under water, you can put a tee and valve for your vacuum near the generator end of your upper horizontal pipe. This way, you can make and break the siphon in one place without going into the snake pit :)
You can also test the reducers without the bucket, it might be a little bit diferent outcome or not like to see what the difference is.
Much love man.
Can you tell me what RPM that is spinning at?
Since I made that impeller in that turbine I can provide some more information. It has an OD of 3.94" and an hub diameter of 1.94" and a pitch of 3.1". It will flow approximately .11gal/rev after you take out the thickness of the blades & fillets.
I'm not sure how spencer attached the impeller on that shaft or if it's field-servicable since he specified a smooth bore and no mounting method. I could print an impeller with different specifications to lower the flow rate, either a steeper pitch or a larger hub diameter.
Then again simply putting a load on it will reduce the flow.
Thanks For Being you!! #Blessings
wouldnt you want the intake tube deeper? i would think that that would induce more pressure after suckton started. Interesting video, Thanks
Once I saw how quickly it drained the pond on the last video it was no surprise to me this set up would not be workable. I do like the trial and errors tho.
Good Day Sir, may I know what was that thing "Black rotator"that you keep on rotating after you changed the end pipes to 4" to 2" ?
Hallow there instead of using the trial and method to test the relation ship between flow and voltage can I suggest the following , at the outlet of the system fit a throttle v/v and before that fit a flow meter ( many brands are available in the market) controlling water flow by throttling and counter check that
What is the flow rate between the 3 different sizes?
Wouldn't a more consistent 2" flow be a better design to keep the water level?
Have you thought about creating a vortex in the pipe?
ruclips.net/video/9YA6muGinRo/видео.html
Hi I live in south jersey and wanted to have a water in my garden not connected pumped by my electric well pump. Can I place a hand pump in my garden and do it myself ? Is there any information you can give me or directions to a video? Thank you for your help.
An you have an S bend instead of the bucket?
What if you used 1 of your ram pumps from that bucket back up to the pond? to keep water level up longer in pond
I am enjoying watching your progress, also am curious to see the same test you did but on the intake end
Cool. So that is AC coming off the turbine? Thanks for sharing
if you reduce from a 4 to a two do you need the bucket?
Wow, this is cool. I will have to look at the follow on videos. This system relies on water flow and pipe size to generate power. If I understand correctly your power generating device is at the top because the weight of the water doesn't matter and your limited to 32 feet of head. If it works like I think it does the 6 inch down pipe won't get you any more power. The power is limited to the power device pipe size and a max of 32 feet. I am looking forward to the follow up videos, time to go look.
-MG
The four inc propellor should be on the side of the intake. The purpose is to create the fastest speed. Its the draw from the pull pushing out as much water as fast as possible. Push out the most water out that you can/ .
That 37.5 volts will be double. Just saying. I love your shows. Kieran.
Good job think you
I guess you are using a LMS2430 charge controller. That has no Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) and uses simple PWM for charging the battery. That means you will need an input voltage well above the 14.4V for a fully charged 12V lead battery. Furthermore, you measured the open circuit voltage and that will drop under load. Pobably a change in the impeller design can increase rotation speed and hence voltage also in low-flow situation.
Looking forward to your experiments with the generator under load!
What if you kept the 2 inch on the siphon and put another siphon on the dam before the one you are currently using. Would that not supply enough wattage to charge a battery after the dump load?
That is both of them together
Hi Seth.First off, the outgoing needs to be equal to the incoming, which means flow measurement. A 2" intake will never fill a 4" pipe. The siphon won't work properly?, and a longer outtake with venturi would suit a two inch system..Obviously, the first thing you need is a pond with a greater surface area, not so much depth, but of course getting that drop is important. The other thing that winds me up is getting the water back to the pond, with minimal losses.Water ram or hose effect.I love what you are doing and it would be good if you can lay down some hard and fast rules.
Could you possibly pull water and exhaust it into the same pond. I think with the vacuum generated it could possibly work. You wouldn't have to worry about water levels. Just an idea maybe worth trying
Hey Seth, great work👌 what's the name of that motor on your generator???
Thank you. This one is from Langstons Alternative Power. I do not know the name. If you call or write that company Spencer will be more than happy to help! Nice guy.
I wonder what would happen if the pipe is extended over distance with the smaller die pipe
I love it bro
im not sure how you feed the pond but is there a way to increase the water feed to the pond its self . more water feeding the pond area would fix the problem all around . could be a easy fix i dont know depends on what your using to fill the pond in the first place . you got a nice set up though . i tried to dam up a creek when i was a kid and got in alot of trouble for it . dnr dint like it much . needless to say i had to remove the dam lol .
This pond is fed by a creek. It normally flows between 40 and 100 gpm.
@@LandtoHouse any way to widen or increase the water flow .
Put large valve to bottom of pipe and water level sensor to bond. Then you can do automation what open that valve when there is enough water and close it when bond level drops too much. That allow you to do some over capacity to generator without getting air to siphon. Also you can use small amount of energy to suck air and water from that top pipe. For that you can use small vacuum pump or thin tuble. It prevents air accumulate to that pipe. Problem with thin tube is that you still need start it by suction. But after it starts it will carry small bubles away from top of that pipe.
If you has a series of 2 inch T's you would be able to open them all to pull all the air out of the top tube, then close all but 1 to test the 2 inch flow power
Hey Seth, your work is amazing! I do have one question, is it possible that the sucking pipe firstly goes from water up, 4-8 foot, then on the angle down we set generator and long pipe down? And is there any way we might do longer suck pipe - also longer "exhaust" pipe? How much vacuum power we can create from the exhaust pipe and keep long suck pipe running?
Interesting tests - your assumption on voltage was off because you based it on the change in diameter of the pipe not the change in cross sectional area. 4 inch to 2 inch is a drop to 1/4 cross sectional area - so volume flowrate would be of a similar magnitude (a little less reduction due to increased backpressure) so a drop to about 1/3 in voltage is about right.
You may find that with the 3 inch reducer you may not need the bucket as the change in cross section will allow the pipe to back fill better and probably not let air in - worth a shot.
Great video look forwards to the next tests..... ;)
Reducers Will speed the exit of the water but slow your motor. My only....complaint about this setup is like most modernization, it draw so much water, it hampers the beauty of the water fall.
That's kool in last video I was hoping to see this if diff size would slow the rate of water taken out of point would it make much of a difference if you removed the bucket if it's creating a little back pressure to slow it even more would it increase if the bucket is removed like blowing into a straw in a cup have to push harder to get air or fluid out
Too Cool.
45v, 37v,, the reducers give you the ability to balance the tradeoffs between water volume and power output. This would suggest a gate valve at the bottom of a permanent installation could be used to regulate it and ensure it does not overtake the water supply.
Too bad the 2" reducer test still had air in the pipe invalidating the 14v reading. I hope you will try that one again, since it might still be a viable option. Practical Engineering's channel has a good video on "what is air lock".
I would like to suggest a T and your vacuum fittings at the top intake to replace the elbow, instead of vacuuming at the bucket at the bottom for 2 reasons. It will solve the problem of getting all the air out of the runner pipe by vacuuming all the air out from the top instead of relying on the siphon to flush the air on its own, AND it leaves you up top with the test rig so you can pivot from starting the siphon to taking measurements immediately. Also it may be easier to break the siphon by opening a valve at the top instead of trying to twist off the elbow.
Do you have any deer on the property? 😊😊😊
Thank you!
So if you put the small on the intake an the larger on the outer bcz the smaller the intake is the more pressure it brings into the pipe you need a bigger outer for the rush
You should reduce it right before it hits the impeller because that will increase the local velocity
In order for a study water flow try a flot
Yes, finally
Haha yes power readings are underway!
Could you also pls record the part where the generator will slightly slowdown when load is applied? I was aftering the power output but I also love the sound of the generator from free spin to loaded
@@LandtoHouse keep making hydro vids 💪👍
Yes I will try to get that effect too.
I'm Larry, I love on a tidal creek and have been watching your videos, along with barrel siphoning video. Are you aware of something that I may could construct with a low flow and low volume with the barrels?
Great video Seth!!! Does Spencer have another low head turbine I could buy? I have a good place I'd like to test one out. Looking forward to seeing your next video.
I know this version is his test turbine. He is gearing up to sell them. Its worth asking!
Hey I was going to shout out your channel in a video soon. I like your work. Probably next weeks hydro video. You might get 100 or so subs :)
Sheesh! That's one heck of a waterfall !
Yes it's perfect for testing out this kind of thing.
@@LandtoHouse You've prob considered it already, but how about a paddle wheel?
My neighbour is actually about to install a water wheel here. I need to get my tests done quickly!
Might have to move to the other side of the pond To use the other waterfall.
@@LandtoHouse NICE place. Beautiful stone work. I'm going to ask today if it'd be legal to damn the creek that runs thru my place. Back until about the 1950s, it had been used/diverted? to power a stone barn/lumber/woolen mill
@@LandtoHouse use the outlet of your setup to spin his water wheel, there you go ponder that one for a bit hahaha (oh great i made a pun)
what is the charge controller you are using that has a dump load feature on it?
I use the midnite classic 200v for solar and 250v for hydro.
Oh on this system I just don't let it charge much as test.
Excellent test for the flow rate, it is always better to throttle downstream on the reaction turbines, is the alternator 12volt nominal? The voltage with the turbine without load is of little use if not to determine only once how much it arrives, theoretically it should never get there if the pico hydro system is done well, the most suitable regulator in this case would be a constant load derivation, as for the wind, you probably don't need mppt, like the Flexcharge NC25A, simply test by varying the absorption at the output of the rectifier with non-led car bulbs of different power, the cheap and Chinese charge controllers often reached the voltage charge disconnect leaving the turbine to run free this in the long run causes breakdowns and mechanical stresses, other low-power solar controllers simply close in short the input of the panels, without a reference battery it is likely to burn it and it behaves badly, 14V is sufficient for lithium batteries and just over 15.5 / 16 volts during the monthly equalization for lead acid ones, first take advantage of the maximum jump possible bile, without exaggerating the cavity otherwise, i would have used a larger size up to the turbine to minimize losses. Ciao
Once under load the water consumption will be much lower because the turbine will be slowed down by the load. As such the limiting factor may not be the diameter of pipe, making these results invalid.
Yes indeed. I guess we will find out that information coming up next!
@@LandtoHouse Well they are valid, open flow (no load) measurements are critical to understanding its behavior before moving to a loaded test, else you won't know how the reducer versus the load affected the results. Good experimental method is to make only 1 change at a time between measurements, exactly what you are doing.
Can I please get the link for you 3 phase to single phase adapter
amzn.to/3c0vdPB
@@LandtoHouse thank you
if you hooked two generators in series in the plumbing would there be enough water to run them both on syphon???
From my understanding whenever you connect a second in series the resistance will slow the water and you have the same or less power made
was about to ask the same question, ok so what if you split the pipe 1 onto 2 back into 1 ? i'm just thinking there is still energy in the given water, you need more power but don't want to syphon your dam dry(obviously) therefore how can you get more from what you have
@@arronjohnston742 im thinking one pipe whole time with one generator after the other but not horizontally but vertically so as to capatilize on gravity and the 8lbs per gallon of weight turning everything?>?>
@@energystoragesolutions6603 yeah i thought of that too but after thinking about what Seth said i think he is right, another inline would be a restriction to the first generator as it would make the water slow down and back up, spitting the pipe into a Y pipe wouldn't really restrict it as an inline system would, still would be interesting to see it all tested out for real.
@@arronjohnston742 I agreed to the testing either way. Either way if you split the pipe into two from one they will only be able to pull as much water as the inlet will allow, however if he reduces the output of the pipe to that of half of the inlet the generators would run as though one generator was getting the full benefit flow of the inlet size however it being split into two the generator will still only receive half of the available input
Hello I'm really interested in this 4inch micro hydro power, can Yu please help me build one.
Removing the pail should also increase output
It may not be an issue with that short a draft tube, but with taller drops air can start coming back up from the outlet which constricts the flow and can potentially break the siphon.
Have the outlet under water prevents this, and doesn't seem to provide significant back pressure.
I will see if I can test a way to pull the bucket after it has started.
I wonder if I drop the bucket so that the down pipe is just barely in the water. Almost no resistance.
@@LandtoHouse It will always cause some back pressure, when not straight open, like your car exhaust right?
i keep watching these late. but if you move your vacuum siphon valve higher and suck the water higher up the tube will create a higher vacuum.
just got to the part where water supply could be a thing so increasing the water flow may drain it to fast.
If the alternator shaft is longer and the impeller is half way down the "down pipe" then it will become self-starting due tot he head of water above the impeller.
If the length of the pipe for vacuum is increased until the top of water with a valve on top, probably it will save you going up and down to vacuum
How funny! Whatever you do is just fine because your experimenting but I would have done it differently. Instead of building a platform to hold the bucket up, I would have put the bucket on the ground and extended the drop pipe to the bucket. I think that would have been less work and easier to just get more pipe. Maybe you'll get to that later to see how much the extra drop changes output and by how much. Cheers.
Yes! I did that on purpose to test height differences. Later I have the bucket all the way down.
Not surprised, as you increase size the area grows quickly.
I converted to cm's lol
2 inch, converted is 81.1 cm^2
3 inch converted is 181.5 cm^2
4 inch converted is 324.3 cm^2
Each inch more than doubles the area of flow, you can quickly see why the 2" had such a drop in output.
I had this fun when building my hydroponics lol
Ah yes that is a fast drop in area. Seems like 2" is not going to allow enough water to pass.
@@LandtoHouse most likely not, if memory serves me tho, butting the restriction at the start should also give you different flow rates than putting it at the end.
I think I am going to enjoy watching the tests etc, I don't have access to a flow of water.
where do i get that turbine?
Langston alternative power is just getting this 4" size built.
@@LandtoHouse ok
why dont you put 3 motors on to the outer pipe? you will make 100v stablile.
👍👍
And don't forget to remove the pail
Why not test the other direction and go from 4” just below the generator to 6”? In turbo charged systems on cars, when you are forcing more air through a pipe, the exhaust end needs to be bigger to reduce turbulence. The same can be said on this type of system as well. Also, consider having generators on each pond that matches the flow rate so as to take advantage of each section’s worth of water. (Not an in-line system. All separate)
I sure hope you're getting more in return than just that turbine for all this advertising you're doing for that company!!!
probably a diameter squared relationship.
I dont know why.. but why ladder is not yet invented before this video posted?..😏
Ladders are invented 3000 years after this video.
@@LandtoHouse anyways.. thank you now i can power up my house using your method and instructions 😁❤️
👍👍응원합니다 👍👍🇰🇷
People always amaze me that they just give you the volts and skip the amps. How are you going to calculate the watts without it. Its a half ass test, But cool to watch the changes even though not knowing all the important information.
I think you did wrong when you reduce the flow of water at the end of the pipe...In this way, as the same flow of water comes in as before, but less comes out, the water needs to run slower to have time to come out.. You should reduce at the entrance and in this way, the velocity will be the same, I think... Did you a test as I said? Have a video?
I'm back
Good to have you here.
Rpms?
Sadly I don't have a tachometer.
@@LandtoHouse I just relocated my Neiko digital tach and they're available on Ebay or at amazon for ~$20 or less
Shouldn't your impeller be near the bottom of the drop, rather than near the top?
It doesn't matter. The speed and flow are the same throughout. It would help to increase the head (drop) by extending the bottom of the outlet pipe. That would increase speed and flow, providing more power.
The voltage doesn't matter. What does the maths say for that flow rate and head? How many watts can you expect?
All in due time. My goal is to film a power video this week.
@@LandtoHouse Looking forwards to that
@@LandtoHouse Looking forward to your power video! Btw. the available power from a waterfall is W = FR × g × h were FR is the Flow rate in mass per second (!!!), g is the gravitational acceleration on earth (9.81 m/s² in SI units), and h is the fall height. Example: If you have a flow rate of 100 liters per second (which is equal to 100 kg per seconds / I love SI units :-) ) at a hight of 1m (3.28 feet) then you can expect a maximum power of 981 Watts. Efficiency losses while conversion will reduce this significantly.
Remove the bucket after it spins up
7:16 Прикол? Russia?
also why do you sell or associate with sellers that sell 150$ generators from motenergy.com on amazon for 500$???
Трубу уходящую опусти ниже, и введи наклонно в воду.
I think at some point your going to empty that pond....
You don't need a vacuum cleaner to start it.
If you spin the impeller with a cordless drill you get same result.
That might be true. So far the shop vac has worked perfectly.
I spent a shit ton of time one night looking at the number for a 3 inch system I guessing to run a close system 600 gal of tank cap 300 up top and 300 at least 16' of drop away from the top supply tank, you need a tank and pump to return the waste or maybe just use a breather cap the plumbers put on top of washer drain lines, dumb ass breather cap can't remember their name... Betting you can make a ram pump that will not have any waste water using a breather cap just like the ones used on 2' washer drain line. I will work up a 1inch inline model, that will use the little 80v 300 mi/lamp micro hydro in lines, betting using 2 55 gal tanks, 1 inch lines ,(3) 80v 300 mil/amp in line micro/hydro to charge a 12v , maybe 24, batt pack it's all about the math in that link I just sent you( I know Talk is Cheap , Slowly Getting My shop together it's been a jacked last 1 1/2 year.. so thx for all you do keep up the good work man...!!! God Bless...!!!
ok thx that help but two thing how much water a min will a 3 inc system work and will never really know if a close system unit will work until you or I try and make one I think 3 inc pipesciencing.com/convert-pipe-size-gpm-5220428.htmls
I don't get it ? I don't see the reason why you are experimenting to make your system less and less efficient ? Why would you want to do that ?
This 4" unit is being tested for Langston alternative power. I am about to go the other way. Increasing the drop and stepping up the down pipe to 6".