Chasing 500 Watts, Big Pelton Turbine
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This testing was done to confirm the diameter and thus operating RPM, Volts, and Amps are inline with expectations to move forward with a Turgo Runner of the same size in a stainless housing.
Current bottlenecks:
-Still only a 12V DC system, the Midnite Classic doesn't like to PWM down to 12V from high input voltages.
-Input wires are now a limitation, amps are higher and the extension cord I'm using is only 16 gauge. I'm pusing 7 Amps through it which over the distance probably results in a noticable difference. I have 4 gauge aluminum wire to bury.
-Lots of windage from water in the housing, a Turgo will remedy most of this.
-Jet alignment is still tricky and not as finely adjustable as I would like.
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Your design is ingenious. Using those quick connections makes it super easy to make changes on the fly, I have never seen such an easy simple set up that works so well. Hats off to you my friends great job!
Interesting spoon design. Very clean setup as well. Nice project
I love stuff like this. When you turned the water back on for the first time I couldn’t help but notice all of the used water being ejected from the turbine was enveloping the turbine itself. It looks like the size of that box would be a serious loss in efficiency caused by excess water around it. Seems it would be a better idea to make that box as big as possible to allow the water to be ejected far from the turbine to drain down the sides, and not interfere with any moving parts.
Agree
That's awesome. I'm gonna say I wouldn't use those "quick" connects they seem to not be so quick..... But hey if that's what you like then go for it, respect.
Im my experience of Peltons, the wheel should definitely be vertical, with the housing as large as possible to reduce losses from interaction of the exiting water with the casing. Also, the nozzle shape and alignment is fairly critical. If you want to use the nozzles that you are currently using, i would suggest possibly mounting them side by side on an adjustable bracket, aimed at the bottom of the wheel. That way you can align them so each of the streams hit the centre of each of the pair of the buckets through the main part of the drive stroke. By fine adjusting the alignment of the streams you can tailor your rpm / power.
Cool project though :-)
If input wires are a limitation now, consider stepping up the voltage near the turbine. As far as I can tell your rectifier can handle up to 1600V while the charge controller can handle up to 200V, yet it's getting only 70V input. So your set up should be able to handle double the voltage. My guess is that the turbine is producing 45-ish VAC (3-phase) and if you can step that up to 90V, current should be halved to 3.5A which means less power loss. Now, the transformer itself will induce a loss, so you'll have to make some calculations and figure out if it's worth doing. Moving the rectifier to near the turbine can also help.
I want the turbine to be able to free-wheel and not have the open circuit volts fry the charge controller. I already have some free heavy wire to install.
Pelton wheels operate most efficiently when the speed of the spoons is one half the speed of the water jet. This is fairly easy to calculate. This exercise is left for the student.
The turbine should be A Kaplan or the simpler
Propellor style.
Francis third best.
But Pelton impulse?
That is for very high head !
But you’re still not a physicist
No just an engineer at a dam.
I am also not a lawyer
But I know murder is no legal
.
Each turbine type has an efficient operating range of pressure and flow. Look at any basic Water Power text book for an explaination.
The charger is MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking). It will adjust the voltage for maximum output power, and that will be near a wheel peripheral speed of half the water speed. It may find an optimum a bit off due to cup shape is not at optimum exactly perpendicular and also optimize a bit to increase RPM due to wire losses and if the box distorts water somehow.
MPPT regulators solve a lot of problems for homebrew projects. There are even step-up/boost MPPT regulators operating from as low as 5V input.
The best is to select the diameter of the pelton wheel to obtain the maximum RPM the alternator is designed for. The power loss in all wires and windings is proportional to I^2 so delivering power at as high voltage as possible is great.
Also the water speed can be checked reading the open circuit (no load) voltage of the alternator. Regulator will have to handle that RPM anyway when battery is fully charged if no dump load, water diverter or nozzle valve feedback is used..
It may be the cups are inefficient if wheel is too small and each cup operate over a large angle
looks very safe, with the wires and all.
Why dont you put the 2 batteries you have in series to work @ 24V if you think working at a higher voltage would help. It would halve the current from the charge controller to the batteries too, so less losses in the cables.
Not to mention its half the amp draw when inverting to 110-120vac. Can be expensive to change some of your hardware though
spencer is smart, very smart.
Mark my words this guy is going to keep building bigger and bigger intill he surpasses the hoover damn in size and electrical output. He may just keep going after that or he may finally be satisfied. Lol
Love the channel and this is the kind of stuff I wish would of been more readily available to me when I was a kid. Im 33 just to give you an idea of where my comment comes from.
Thank you for all of your hard work. I have no doubt that you are inspiring an untold number of kids.
Pretty awesome build. If I ever buy some land, I will probably build something like this.
⚠️ 100 extra watts is small given the size more than doubled. The problem is the size of the water stream is not massive enough. I.E. Gallons per minute. You should be able to get 3x more wattage with the proper flow.
The first few words sounded exactly like Gray Still Play's Intro :D
Nice work and video. The velocity of water exiting nozzles remain the same. Using a larger diameter wheel should turn slower based on same water jet velocity. Very nice setup.
Hello Joe. Cool setup.
The round casing is the way to go. Like a donut, the half-toroid is a perfect diffuser for the spent water and the noise! Stainless perf metal will let water pass through and stall that water long enough to use it's film strength to absorb a lot of the sound. Please check for proper clearances at speed!
Very cool system! I'm sure if I scour your channel more I could find the answer but... do you have a comparison in output of using two jets instead of one hitting the pelton? For some reason my brain can't manage to see why two would be better than one if it's from the same source and traveling at the same velocity. But on the other hand there is more water hitting it it right? Or is it just dividing the amount that would be coming out of one in half?
Either way super cool setup my friend.
Two jets double the water which is double the power at the same pressure. it's not actually the same pressure but it's close enough. I lose some to friction, and I have a finite amount of water, it's really only capable of a limited amount of power.
@@JoeMalovich why not 4 then
Perfect 👍
2:20 damn that is sexy.
Must build, must get going.
Heck I wish there was some nice stream next to me. Also, I like coming up with bunch of ideas yet I seldom see any real effort on actually getting them done. I guess it’s just a lot more easier to dream than do.
50w improvement... that is more than 10%! Wow it looks like you have too many cups. Water seems not to flow out too well causing resistance to the wheel.
Good work
Whats producing all of that water pressure? Love this idea.
Very nice setup, well put together. The charger rating is rated in Amps, if your charger is 40 Amps per example it will be 40 Amps at 12 VDC (right about 480-500Watts output) or 40 Amps at 24 VDC etc etc (chargers can be 12/24 or 24/48) which is then twice the amount of power, this will only be a problem to you if you were curtailing production due to reaching already the Max charger Current (as for the 48 to 24 VDC question), if your current is already close to the current limit of the charger yes that is a limiting factor definitely. If you can measure flow velocity in your pipe and manifold pressure you can for sure estimate maximum Hydraulic power before the turbine, and see what is the efficiency you are getting at the moment, for that you need a large flange mechanical flow meter to avoid much flow restriction to the turbine. That can guide you into next steps to achieve your desired power production. if the efficiency is high then you are looking at high losses or water flow from your reservoir, it is is low you may benefit from an additional injector(s) and look if you may have too many buckets (too small as well) on your wheel which can be the culprit of all the splashing inside the box.
How much is the inlet pressure of the water before it impinges on the blades?
Sanitary fittings are the best aren't they? Gotta love it.
You should put some ferrules on your wires there, its less important because the wago connectors apply spring tension to the conductors but it does keep the strands from getting messy
If you are still running this box, maybe put some smooth corners to redirect water flow.
I'm trying to build a similar set up. But out of curiosity what type of jets are those is it like a normal thing you can buy at Walmart like for pressure washers...
im new to the channel how you get the water pressure so high !!??
I'm a fan of your work and I love to know where you've got those quick release connectors. nice work sir keep it up😊
I like it it's a fantastic work of piece for free electric energy, i need some detail of generator that you use i mean model # ?
If you can increase the diameter of your penstock pipe you'd have less head loss due to laminar flow.
I think your next upgrade will be the box.
I really have no idea what I'm talking about but it looks like there is a lot of water turbulence inside the box, wouldn't it be a bit more efficient if the inside of the turbine box had rounded corners or was a straight up circular shape?
Water reaching the sides of the box has already produced work by hitting the turbine first, so aside from splash from wall to wheel, the shape of the box should not be a big issue.
@@DanielCallejasSevilla What if, the box was the same shape as the stellarator coils... Id like to test that but alas, no stream on my backyard
I saw the same thing. I know in a racing motor they make the oil pan to keep splash off the crank. I think the same principal should apply here.
Likely, but probably not so easy to prototype in comparison to a simple box.
He could 3D print one after the bugs are worked out...he has a printer. Just has to consider the shape to deflect the water properly and if the plastic will handle the stress. 🤔
Bigger, round with baffles.
What is the name of the pipe connection hardware? Very convenient for assembly dissassembly.
Wow he grabbed frozen stone with wet hands. I got instant frostbite doing the same thing.
Why was the black bypass hose put to use? Seems the two hoses already there could have just been put down in the center hole.
Also those stainless steel connectors and clamps looks like high dollar lab grade parts. Aren't they expensive.
Looks like a lot of water sloshing around in the new box that would interfere with the turbine.
where are you getting the water and how much pressure?
Pelton (impulse turbine) wheels are suited to high head like about 1000' and higher to get max efficiency
Francis (reaction turbine) are suited to lower heads
The most complicated are Kaplan turbines for the lowest heads - basically a very large variable pitch propeller to broaden the maximum efficiency range
This setup doesn't appear to have much of a head (going on the plastic hoses etc) ?
Ey Joe, here JC from Chile... what Brand and Kind of generator are using there ?
Can you guide me to get one similar ?
Thanks
Definitely need batteries matched to the system's safe operating parameters.
i would love to live where you are as UK is crap. a cabin in big open space not a care in the world just having fun is my dream place and i love the cold am never a sunny hot days person canada in winter is my holiday type i would love.
Nice installation. Get some camlocks
I noticed that there is some build up of fluid after departing the turbine. Are you able to reduce that drag by making a round sleeve for the box so the exiting water travels more smoothly as a vortex? It just looks like it is impeding the turbine on the video. Great idea and jealous I don’t have a water source like you do.
Hi, my name is Rafael, I'm from Brazil, what is the description, and the brand of the engine? And these shovels are plastic and where to buy?
2:33 ELECTROBOOM Material
Hahah
what are those hose clamps called? the ones that look like miniature vitaulic clamps.
Those are CLAMP DIN 32676 fittings
very good for handling your baseload. Do you have netmetering with your power company?
Gotta love tri-clamp 💗
Man, I wish I had half your guys knowledge… I’d love to build my own in our stream. But when the videos start with, ‘I’m going to require this stator’ etc, I’m already way out my depth lol
good job tanks
What are the conections you use on the hoses called?
also i think a bigger housing with more efficiend water discharge will make it better.
I don't think I've ever seen someone use triclamps outside of brewing.
I've got a fun project you'd enjoy, maybe make a Tesla Turbine? You'd get a much higher efficiency Turbine with the same flow rate.
Have you shot the wago connectors with a thermal imager?
Okay, if you hook up an oscilloscope to the output of that turbine, on a load that is, you will probably be able to visualize the effects of that broken part. I'd really like to see that.
There is enough inertia that I doubt it would be easily visible.
Those clamps with the stainless steel pipe fittings are very similar to what I use to concrete pump, I gotta ask where did you find those kind they look ideal for the application-no rust and easy to work with
Hay how do u get your pressure i am on a river in Michigan so wood appreciate
How’s the plastic turbine blades treating ya? I’ve seen others use those and have them wear out fairly quick and figured an aluminum blade might do ya better
you can make such a bolt on a lathe, and instead of going from right to left when you cut the thread, you go from the left to the right, they you have it a new left-threaded bolt :-) (if you weld a hexagon on it, otherwise it's a left-threaded rod :-) )
I love tri clamps if you make it down to atlanta I will show you what I use them for 😉
Run the Pelton wheel at a rim velocity at near 1/2 the water velocity of the nozzles. You do the math.
The mppt controller does that for me.
@@JoeMalovich
I'm not familiar with the MPPT controllers. But I was thinking that there could be more power out of the original small wheel if there was a better match between the incoming higher voltage if there were stepdown transformers before the rectifiers. What complicates things is the 3 phase delta connection and the need for 3 transformers. One thing in its favor is the frequency seems to be higher than 60 Hz, which means the transformers could be small for having to handle 500 watts. But altogether you have a very good setup, thanks for the videos.
@@JoeMalovich No, you have to size your nozzles to the speed you want under load. The mppt controller only optimizes wheel speed with available power output, if you're losing power because your water velocity is too high/low, it can't compensate for wheel losses.
@@jttech44 It can because mppt will find the voltage that gives the most watts higher rpm = more voltage lower rpm = lower voltage the only thing I can think of is if the rpm is too low and it falls below the w/rpm of the alternator.
@@benlawton5420 right, but because water flow and your spoons have to be sized to eachother it only gives you what the ideal is given your flow/spoon combo is.
500w is too little, can you heat your home and cook with 500w?
Dude you should use sound board to dampen it and spray it with water proof material.
Is this a miniaturized water wheel?
How much is your water bill for a month? And where does the water goes?
I can probably answer this question. The water bill in many parts of the world is $0. The reason for this is that the water just flows down a creek nearby on it's way to the ocean. He just helps it get there via a different route.
I like the way you connect those pipe fittings. What are those stainless steel collar clamps thingy called?
Those types of fittings are used in sanitary (food and pharmaceutical) applications because they’re easier to take apart and clean than threaded fittings. Tri-clover is a brand of those fittings. I like them in this application, too.
Hey guys, just a diyer, no real engineering training 😂, but how would making a fews gear to speed up things benefit if? Or would they be worse bc it might create a loss through the gears? Or it really just comes down to fine tuning. And with the fine tuning, would that be more of a benefit or hassle in the longrun? Thanks
Very frustrating how power storage and grid integration is such a universal problem. That's what sucks the most resources and maintenance cost.
Where all the water cames from ? Is there a begin of this serie? Is there pluvial source water?
It's a river running through his garden, sent down a channel into the pipe work.
Nice progress!
Wouldn't it work better if that box was round ?
I feel like when that water hits the edge of that box it splashes and that would be unnecessary resistence for that wheel.
Just a theory
Started watching your videos 2 years ago with the Micro Hydro Water Wheel, you've come a long way mate.
Never wanted a river to run through my garden so much.
KaShuto lol.... I'm moving soon because my old house is on its end and guess what's 100 meters away...
Nice to see it running with a good output. i think the gain you are seeing there isnt to do with the size, in fact the larger turbine would be less efficient. its because the smaller one has to few spoons and the jet skips the gap. with your high head and low flow a small amount of water is a lot of energy and the biger turbine has the correct spacing of spoons so that the jet does not miss momentarily. That is where i think that gain came from. i think you would get a bigger gain if the smaller turbine was sized to your nozzles with the correct number of spoons.
Congrats on 100k! It's nice to see you drop by once in a while. I'm excited to see how your wind turbine works out.
The smaller one still wasn't the right diameter for my PMA. It was spinning so quickly that my open circuit volts were exceeding my charge controller maximum, I was seeing 209VDC and over 3200 RPM. I'm trying to design it so that if it ever runs unloaded that it won't self-destruct or fry something. Noise and vibrations were excessive as well. It's a physical impossibility to mount more spoons on the smaller one without cutting modifying the mounting ears on the spoons. This is why I went with a larger runner, Spencer is still flummoxed that I'm getting such high RPM from the big runner too! It's just difficult to grasp the pressure I'm working with.
The larger diameter does help with the spoon engagement arc or whatever the technical term would be. With the larger runner I'm at 2020rpm and 128VDC open circuit and 1020RPM and 69VDC loaded which I feel are far less extreme numbers. As I recall from earlier conversations you operate yours at about 700rpm so mine is still 30% faster. I think the gain came from less friction losses due to a lower rpm and less windage due to a larger housing, and maybe better jet alignment with no blowby.
@@JoeMalovich Thanks, im actually closer to 150k now :)
If it would be any help to you i can work out what your rpm would be at any head and turbine pcd. the one you are using must be around 350mm to get that rpm.
my system runs at about 1000 rpm loaded, and around twice that unloaded. but that changes depending on flow losses. but around 100rpm. my turbine would do 4100rpm unloaded with your presure.
@@KrisHarbour Thanks for the offer about calculations, I'm pretty good with numbers though.
@@KrisHarbour - would there be loss caused by the water bouncing off the turbine turbine housing and back into the turbine.
The water appears almost to hit the spoons at right angles.
I would have thought a circular turbine housing allowing for the spent water to exit without hitting the spoons - causing back pressure.
@@Robuster82 With a pelton turbine yes. as the water is flung off the turbine. with a turgo much less so as the water is directed downward and out the bottom. It is only a very small amount though even for pelton turbines. The best shape of housing for a pelton is curved and vertical for this reason. the shape of housing used for this turbine is much more suited to a turgo.
your getting a lot of turbulence from the box being square, i feel a circular housing would increase your efficiency by 20%?
@Logic Hurts Idiots at least he didn't make the last your into you're, he's got half of it right
Heads Mess what abt the back splash of waisted jet energy i would think a round Design would create less drag on opposite of spoons.
@Logic Hurts Idiots those who attack a persons argument solely on grammar or syntax, in truth, have no argument. What you've just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul. haha
@Heads Mess honestly yah... I'd smooth the corners of the box too, and angle them down the drain so that splash back isnt happening. A couple 3d printed radius could do it.
What about a used EV battery? You could probably get power your house with peaks mostly of that battery even if it's only 5kwh
I’m a cyclist and I guess that Watts portion of the title pulled this into my feed, since I train and race with a powermeter. Had no idea what the hell you were talking at the beginning but stayed until the end and fascinating.
I think you should make the housing round, and possibly perforated so the water can exit the turbine radially with minimal interaction on the turbine wheel itself.
I agree. The corners are causing lots of cavitation.
He should 3d print one!
2 volute scrolls of 180⁰ length will help. But I'll guess a max gain of 10 to 20W of power.
Yassss definitely an upgrade
Using a hexagon you could eject the water through the corners.
Your Pelton wheel is flooded! Nost of the "power" generated is churning water around in the chamber. Pelton wheels are designed to be totally free of water except for the jet impingement. The "chamber" should be "NOT". It should be totally open to the lower water reservoir. Ideally water will exit in streams in the opposite direction from the jets.
Couldn he just make a bigger and higher box? Maybe only higher to give the water more room to exit.
The problem is that he has the hoses shooting water straight at the Pelton wheel which makes the water in turn shoot up and down out of the spoon blades...his hoses should shoot at the top side of the blade so the water shoots into the wall at a lower level than the wheel instead of up and falling back on it and creating unnecessary friction.
Also in a design like this where the wheel is in the horizontal the bottom side doesn't need to be spoon-like..since it's going straight into a pit.
Pelton is better suited for vertical designs to get the water shot away from the wheel..that's why both sides are spoon-like. He's losing power by having the bottom blade be spoony instead of a straight blade right into the pit
@@TiredOfY I was thinking exactly the same while watching this and i don't even know anything about pelton wheels
Yea it felt slowed down by the ambiant slushing of water. Need more optimisation indeed.
I agree. As for how to optimize the turbine to prevent sloshing, consider redoing the turbine set-up so that it's vertical rather than horizontal, with the jet hitting the bottom of the turbine. The water then will immediately go down into the reservoir instead of sloshing around. EDIT: Nevermind, if you're moving to Turgo turbine then that's simpler.
I would recommend opening and closing the main valves from the penstock a bit slower to not have such large pressure spikes as seen on your gauge. I would hate to see you break the pipe somewhere from either a pressure spike or it rubbing against a rock as it grows/contracts under pressure.
Wago connectors are the best. They are keeping my whole electricity together. Congrats to your 25 % upgrade!
yes the are best, no stupid screws like chocolate block
you have too much water staying up inside the box after hitting the wheel.
Agreed, should be circular shape not a box, doing so would assist in making the water go down, like a funnel/corkscrew. Putting Corkscrew type fins in the bottom of the shoot would force the water out faster as well.. I bet it would spin much faster. Kinda like a Turbo.
I'd like to see that water wheel coupled to a one foot diameter stator, larger circumference equals faster speeds past coils
This
The box must be round! Water eddies in the corners, counteract rotation!
there is no box in round, cause it called "BOX"
I cringe when I keep seeing ball-valves used.... Change to a gate valve on outside of box, use second inside to stop water after the T-piece and guage. You can then allow bypass water while working on it to avoid freeze. 3-pin Anderson connector of even Banana Plugs make for fast electrical. The box while being temporary looks like plenty of waste water is falling back on to the wheel and will be making parasitic drag. Possible option in your box, put ledge side around the entire inside wall, use a full-size peice of polycarbonate to mount the turbine and alternator. Jets will need their own bolted mounts but least the spent water will be thrown well away from the wheel. Upgrade your cabling, you have gone a lot lower on volatge thus current has risen, over a long run, losses will increase.
Properly sized ball valves have the least hydraulic loss thru them This matters at high water velocity. Substituting gate valves will make a real reduction in a system that is efficient.
This probably isn't a problem at ~40A, but it might be worth looking into:
I can't remember if you've mentioned in your past videos about the wire guage from the water wheel (I haven't actually watched all of them if I'm honest), but now that you've got less rpms on the same alternator, you're going to be more dependant on the resistivity of the cables themselves (less rpm = less voltage, more current -> more voltage drop). If you're ever going to re-wire the cables in the ground, maybe consider putting in some sense wires to run parallel to your main current carrying wires just to compare the voltage drop across them at the charge controller.
wheel is too heavy?
The key with those Pelton wheels is having the jet stream lined up perfectly to transfer maximum force/efficiency onto the cups. They are also designed to have the water speed almost match the wheel speed so that all the force of the water is transferred into rotational motion - the water should fall downwards from the wheel. So any kind of housing should be circular but with space around the wheel. Hope that helps. Cool design!
Actually for maximum efficiency the Velocity of the bucket should be half of velocity of jet due to Eulers terminal machinery equation
@@philmicuchie7729 I second this Phil!
So approximately toroidal in shape.
If the velocity of the wheel was the same as the velocity of the stream, then no significant force would be imparted onto the wheel. Something is wrong with your understanding of physics.
The water should be left with no energy, ie stationary. It should be free to just drop out of the way. The turbulence in your housing is evidence of huge losses. I used Fisher and Paykel smart drive alternators from NZ. These have a rotor that can be withdrawn from the stator so the load can be controlled for speed matching. They are good for 1000 watts at about 1200 rpm, output at approx 450V three phase. Switchmode power supplies can deliver low voltage for batteries much simpler than MPPT. We lived off grid on three of these for 15 years in NZ. They also work well at low rpm, say 200 charging 24V DC with just a bridge rectifier..
* Nice machine this is. * Ja nyt sitten folks laitetaan Arto Lauri erinomainen RUclips kanava tilaukseen. Niin tonne itselle, kuin myös kavereille myös.
The first time I'm watching this setup, congrats, this installation is one the cleanest I've seen so far. everything looks so good and easy.
I would replace your square box for a round one to improve the water flow velocity and turbulences.
Yeah he is right. Please send another vldeo to change rectangular box to circular turning chamber. You will get more energy
We need to get this guy a quality-made steel turbine of the right size.
Where does the water come from?
Clouds
Hi Joe - I was wondering if a close-fitting circular shroud (i..e a bent bit of sheet metal) within housing plywood for the turbine might improve the efficiency even further (you'd have to have gaps to let the jet spray in of course). There's quite a lot of empty space within the housing so those Pelton buckets will be wasting a little energy circulating it around. If you could reduce the amount of air that the buckets are moving around then you might gain a couple of extra watts. (Much the same as how the pitch of a vacuum cleaner goes up when you block the hose.. less air is moving, so less work is done so the motor and it will spin up to a higher RPM). Cheers!!
5 Gallon bucket ought to do just fine.
Скажите пожалуйста, где можно заказать такое колесо турбины ?
Call me crazy, but wouldn't a round "box" decrease the resistance to flow?
I think it would be helpful to change the shape of the turbine box from cubic to cylindrical with as little extra spacing as possible. By doing so, the water after hitting the turbine could be channeled in a centrifugal motion instead of crashing on the wall of the box. Great video.
He went to reconnect the water supply and I yelled “did you turn off the water first?!”
I BET A TESSLA TURBINE WOULD WORK ON THAT TOO! It was designed for steam but hi pressure water might work !
Hey Joe! Can you give the name of these hydraulic connectors? A very nice system that facilitates quick and easy connection ...
I think they are called sanitary fittings
or tri-clamp fittings
@@JoeMalovich Thank You!