Round Turbine Housing, An Improvement?
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Current bottlenecks:
-Still only a 12V DC system, the Midnite Classic doesn't like to PWM down to 12V from high input voltages.
-Input wires are now a limitation, amps are higher and the extension cord I'm using is only 16 gauge. I'm pusing 7 Amps through it which over the distance probably results in a noticable difference. I have 4 gauge aluminum wire to bury.
-Windage reduced with a round housing, a Turgo will solve the issue.
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I recommend removing the turbine housing walls complete and replacing them with 4 corner legs instead (and mounts to hold the nozzels). That way the water could exhaust out into the larger enclosure and drain without chance of splashback.
I think you need to keep the top of the dynamo dry through so water splashing around everywhere might not be so great.
Now, take your circular housing and make it a cone shape to direct the water down as it goes around :D
Then add a smaller turbine at the bottom of the spout to try and harvest some of that waste energy. And as water falls down the cone it should accelerate.
If you make this cone long enough, most of the centrifugal forces will be directed downwards by the acceleration of falling down. Jet the falling water onto a small very low weight turbine that is perpendicular so that the water wheel catches the water as it falls. I'm not sure what the speed of the water is in the turbine, but it seems pretty close to terminal velocity, so we probably wouldn't even have to be that big a cone. the biggest thing would be making sure the water flows freely from the spout without pooling up in the bottom of the cone. messing around with the angle of the cone can help with any turbulence.
@Eric Vercruyssen Because shape of the housing is not the isue here.
It looks to me that the turbine is spining too fast, he should use turbine with smaller diameter or conect it with generator able to get more power out of it at this RPMs.
This type of turbine have best performance when blades are moving with half of the speed of the water in the jet.
With half of the speed the water gonna hit the blade and transfer almost all of its kinetic energy into turbine blades.
Wrong direction of the jet can also be part of the problem.
Just thought of this. Great minds!
Or corkscrew rifle the rim to direct it down
Why not have the size of the housing another half as large to prevent splashback from being able to reach the pelton turbine wheel. If it still has the energy to do that, have vanes fitted to the inside of the housing - fitted at an angle to "capture" the exiting water - preventing the return of the cplashback. Think of internal baffles allowing the water to enter but not be able to reflect back. One could even have them angled to deflect the exiting water downwards as a means of preventing splashback
That was my thought too.
Exactly! Similar to a stator directing water onto a turbine propeller, but in reverse pushing spent energy water away from the spoons.
Exactly my thought to, turbine housing deflectors angled to channel wather outward or down or a bit more complicated out and down at the same time.
Yes I was just thinking the same. The turbine housing should be a bit larger and with the walls tilted downwads or even curved round an downwards like a house roof to bend the splashing downwards. I think actually a stainless steel baking bowl would do it. Though ruin the view we can see you filmed throig today in slow-mo. Thank you for your series. Learning a lot.
I agree bigger housing you can get 3/4 thick plexi would be superior to plywood resin/fiberglass too boat epoxy is very strong also he could turn side ways for horizontal different jet position too so that water is moving in one direction or dual stream focused in a reverse V so both streams are focused I dont see single side causing uneven bearing load because water is a solid and its fairly constant there is also the possibility of one jet followed by the other that way splash back is occurring later if you can imagine a clock and say the jet pushes it from 5 oclock the water leaves the spoons at about 12
Motor sounds like it’s struggling at first...
.....Pulls the 3 phase wires out of a puddle.
Motor speeds up and runs more efficiently....
“That was weird! It was acting like there was a short. I don’t know what thats was about...”
I kept on looking at those wires.... is he going to more them.... surely anytime now.... there in the water dude, move em.... nup.
Yes I wonder why he missed that!
Given what I've seen in commercial turbines, your enclosure needs to be 2x that size and round, with the nozzles sticking out close to the wheels. Round should be good, but ideally it'd be slightly conical, so the water is directed down once it's flung off the turbine. You need enough distance for the water to miss the spoons as it reflects back off the wall.
Two ideas:
1. Can you reverse the direction of the round insert so the seam would catch the water and take it out of the housing?
2. Can you make a cone so that the water hits and goes down as soon as it hits?
Yeah the cone - I had in mind.
And a round enclosure with tight tolerances, but I don't think this type of spoons are made for that design, and will cause water drag when too tight.
Land to House cone was my thoughts too
@@jons6125 after looking at Langstons metal design he uses 4 sections of metal sloped down like a pyramid.
yep and maby make the housing veined
We are getting into turbo jet territory here lol. veins... guides.. I guess if you want to improve that is where it all comes down to.
Hey Joe! As many people said, a bigger housing diameter would prevent water from splashing back and hitting the jet.
From my experience in a company manufacturing small hydro (50-500 kW) turbines, vertical axis Peltons always have a big housing, let's take a 0.6 m wheel diameter, the housing would be around 2 m (3 times bigger!).
Anyway this is a very small turbine, so probably a housing diameter twice the wheel should be a good compromise.
One last "humble" opinion about the wheel: the amount of water combined with the head of your turbine would need bigger spoons. I say so because the jet seems to be quite big compared to the spoon size, which means the turbine is less efficient (water leaves the spoon with very high turbulence) and also more splashing all around.
I hope this may help.
Thanks for your videos and for sharing your experience.
At 9:12 it appears that the water circulating is hitting the jet, thus causing it to loose direction. Perhaps the permanent solution should indeed be a flattened down facing cone with little windows to let water escape just before the jets. Anyway, great job!
The high speed is SO PRETTY! I love it! Watching the droplets move. Epic.
Thanks for testing taking the corners out. Had a feeling youd gain some efficiency. You could poke holes in the circular housing to let water through as it spins but not enough holes that it could come back. Let it drip down the corners essentially. The other thing you could do is make it thinner at the top than the bottom to encourage the water to go downwards.
Would have thought a bigger box would help stop the splashback.
Also you should try and get some splash mud flaps. You'll see them on trucks (we do here in Australia), and look like the hook side of Velcro, except it's about 1/2 cm long.
They basically stop water splash back.
First thought that came to mind: A bigger box makes for extremely sloppy splash-back. 😂
LOVE THIS CHANNEL. The fact you are willing to try different ideas is what I love about this channel. I am a subscriber by the way. A simple solution you mentioned, to cut the turbulence is exhaust points for the excessive water at the corners. You have a vortex but excess water splashing back. Having a large hole on the corner would allow the water to spin, and then exit the main chamber. Keep up the great work,
As many have commented already, I would like to see a total open design. This can be achieved with a fairly large metal frame and acrylic top. This will cause more water in your pit, yet it may solve many problems, I suspect that you could see 10% or more improvement. It should be pretty simple to do.
you really should put those electrical connectors into a junction box.
no, the tingles make me feel good.
I was like im worried those lines in water
Joe Malovich lmaaaooooo
lmao🤣🤣🤣🤣
Username checks out
Maybe you could build a naked frame around the spoon side of turbine, and keep the perspex shield to protect the alternator section.
Bit like a four leg table design ,and incorporate a upright to strap wiring to away from water.
Also weld some sheet plate ,just in areas where jets come in. Then this way less water is splashing back onto spoons ??
Great video. I hope you are paying really close attention to the transition from your reinforced hosing thru your ball valve and thru your jet. You are effectively accelerating your water and any losses there will be easily quantified. You don't want to be having turbulence from square edges steep tapers etc. Just think what a water monitor looks like. I also suspect that this would work better in a horizontal axis. In this axis the water from the upper set of "cups" must drop thru the lower set of cups. You want the water hitting the cups, expending its kinetic energy to the cups and then getting a straight shot out of the way. You could simply use two parallel jets mounted to achieve the desired impact. It may also be desirable to put the ball valves some distance upstream from the nozzles to minimise their affect on your nozzles. An effective way of stopping water getting to an alternator without huge friction losses is to put a disc on either side of "barrier. The water can not pass the spinning discs because it is simply thrown off. Kind of like a continuous labyrinth seal. No physical contact to anything, just a tiny bit of windage.
Idea: What if instead of a case housing you would use a frame just to hold and align everything but allow water to escape away from the spoons so it causes no windage?
Sounds good. I would also like to see that. A painted metal frame to hold the jets in place would let the water splash away further. The turbine can rest/attach on top of the frame and can also let you remove the turbine separate from the jets. Metal plates can be mounted on each side to direct the splash away from the turbine (out towards the corners).
Maybe it gets a bit messy, so the jets and piping could be covered with some splash protection instead.
The round enclosure does seem smoother, but the space is tighter. So a bit of give and take there I guess.
Really like your experiments :)
I thought this but then thought that the top of the generator would be getting splashed.
@@WhiskeyGulf71 Yes, but you can still have the acrylic plate connected to the turbine, so should be the same.
Adding a metal edge would make it stronger, and then it can rest on the bottom frame. Could also add a shroud around the top center to prevent water from getting there. Noticed some rust on one of the valves, but the rest seems to be more corrosion and splash resistant. Would be interesting to see how the shaft and bearings are doing now..
May be 3 points of contact in horizontal position. Might be less friction if it was vertical. And if it was not using bearings, but tight fit and oil.
(A metal alloy sleeve used as sacrificial material). Bearings definitely dont like water, and are less durable. So you have a really good point keeping water out of there :)
I'll have to re-watch how the turbine was put together now :)
So the motor is on top of the acrylic, and should not get splashed much. Would need to either extend the acrylic or make walls on the top side if the cage is to be skipped.
The bolt in the bottom is fixed, so no friction there. But then it's hanging on the top instead. But not much weight, so might not matter a lot which way it is installed. Probably simpler to just replace bearings now and then. :)
Just make the acrylic the size of the pit. The pit is the housing, and sit the acrylic and stator on the frame.
Cone shape, so it splashes down
Cam to say this, he's thinking in too many 90deg angles.
That is an interesting idea.
I had the same idea. Doesn't even need to be a cone. Could be pyramid and still work a lot better than what he has. As long as it's moving more of the water down and out
Came here to suggest the same thing... or put some half inch by 4 inch slits long ways down the middle...
what about a spiral cone to channel the water down as well?
Really nice to have that kind of things. How to build or to generate just to produce an electricity.
Make the housing bigger....or why do you have the housing anyway? Use a splash guard.. the housing is "the pit"
This is the right idea for sure
As you said getting the water away from the alternator is key so with the round housing I would make some openings (semi circle cuts) along the top every few inches so the water can escape once it has hit the rotors and doesn’t splash back. also maybe adding some water deflectors before the nozzles on the round housing to send the water up or down so the “spent” water that has already hit the turbine fins doesn’t hit the new water coming in making the stream turbulent.
This really got the comment section excited. Nice work on the investigation front
I can hardly keep up
You could get more power if you raised the water coming from the spring a few feet. The Romans had had a trick for lifting water levels in their aqueducts, to make water run uphill. While you want water to go downhill, you can still use the Roman trick of an inverted siphon to raise the level of the water, to increase the water force hitting your turbine. The Romans used inverted siphons to run aqueducts uphill (no moving parts, just uses water pressure)!
You could try a perforated liner to allow the water to escape.
I agree with this guy. perforated inner circular liner with holes about 5cm to 10mm in diameter
I was going to say the same thing, but thought I would read through what others had already said. Possibly angle the holes so they would help direct the splashing water out.
Try a larger box with the ring around the pelton wheel formed as a cone with the larger end at the bottom. Like an inverted funnel.
Perhaps make it taller so that less water is "sitting" on the turbine. That way it delivers it's energy then drop away as to not impose any drag loss.
Joe. Place a strip inside the cylinder spiraling downwards. When the water deflects, it will be channeled downward. I would start with one but 2 or more may work better,
Hi Joe love and warm regards from India, I feel you must make a involute just big to fit the pelton wheel, you can visualise it as a "C" that's like half cut square, going around the pelton wheel will reduce the drag form a more uniform water flow over the wheel, also I recommend to add 4 more nozzles so a total of six nozzles with a enclosed involute specially made that just fits pelton wheel, should surely increase its efficiency, lovely work and a great design, great effort in that biting cold Joe, God bless and keep the good work going.
i would love to see how your setup up at the source is holding up. could you include an inspection in your next video?
I think around housing that folds completely around the peloton wheel with minimal clearance (like 2-3 mm) would be the best solution. This way the air moves basically at the same speed as the turbine and will have very low turbulence.
To get the water out you create two whole at the top and the bottom behind the the jet nozzle, which match the spray back from the nozzle.
To avoid that water is falling back in the upper hole (by a different nozzle), you need some kind funnel leading outwards.
Something not mentioned in the video or comments is "laminar flow" and by that I mean getting rid of the turbulence created by your jets. IOW, the water should flow in a smooth stream instead of splashing. Here's a little experiment for you. Take your feed hose out of the box and see what the spray pattern is while flowing. I'll bet is more like a jet and splashes. Extend your "nozzle" with about 18" of 1/4" pipe (just an example) and notice how the spray changes to a smoother stream. This lack of restriction (smooth interior surface) before exiting the pipe is what gets rid of the turbulence. (valves and fittings add turbulence when too close to the outlet) Less turbulence = less air bubbles / cavitation = better control of where the water goes = better efficiency. Also notice that commercial applications of the Pelton wheel use a scroll shaped housing to direct the exiting water. I have to wonder if the mfgr doesn't sell a housing that's already engineered, along with well designed nozzles and a spec sheet on water flow / operating pressures for best results.
Larger, round housing, walls angled so that water hitting them is directed down. Something I'd try is shaped pieces to turn water back in the rotation direction after it flings off the spoons. Once the nozzle alignment is fixed to make the jets hit the spoons in the perfect spot, there should be a spot further along the rotation where water flings off still having some useful energy. Might be possible to capture some of that by turning that spray back at the spoons. Looks like doing this with a turgo design would be easier. Put a funnel beneath the wheel to catch the water that's deflected by the spoons. The funnel's top should be tilted in the rotation direction so the water coming down shoots straight down the funnel's throat. From the bottom of the funnel, a pipe narrowing down to a small opening curves around to aim somewhere at the spoons, down-spin from the upper nozzle. In other words catch the flow going through the wheel, make it do a U-turn, and accelerate it to hit the wheel a second time.
I am amazed at this technology.
Looks like everybody is posting the same. As a quick and dirty fix, how about cutting notches at the top of the liner to allow spent water to run away behind it (as you mentioned in the vid), and perhaps cut some little flaps in the side wall of the liner to allow the water to exit behind it. This would stop the water circulating around and then messing with the jets?If you cut the flaps on three sides, then bend the flap away from the liner, towards the pelton wheel, the water could be diverted behind the liner. Staying tuned, and I am subscribed.
I think that plywood is the perfect temporary medium to work with as you are doing. It allows for so many quick and dirty modifications. I don't necessarily understand refraction dynamics but i will throw in my 2 cents of opinion since i'm in lock-down and have nothing else to do and i too have built a small hydro-electric operation. So I would imagine that anything but a 90 degree angle on your jets would produce losses with this style of impeller, straight on has your greatest potential for efficiencies. I personally would still try to solve the water deflection issue by maybe creating a much larger round chamber...fill your usable space with an even bigger housing. Also, if you are able to re-design your housing so that your nozzles can be moved around a bit in order to be able to find the optimum point of contact with the impeller, that way you could then set and test your jet accuracy much quicker since I think this is also one of your points of loss. I still see too much energy in your water when it leaves the impeller. Great video!!!
And maybe use a splashback cylinder with a chhese grater style perforations to evacuate as much water into the corner sections where it will not cause drag? All in all sir, I like your style. Great acceptance of trail and error to find success.
i wonder if holes in the round insert would help direct water away. Nice job so far excellent DIY project
You could try 'coning' the round housing, if you 'coned' it downwards that would also help to keep the water from soaking your bearings
Great series on turbine..seems to me that you need a birdcage system instead of a sealed box..water will exit the cage that supports the motor..you only need wall where the nozzle(s) will be mounted..heavy (HEAVY!!!) gauge wire cage and try not to have the splash from the spoons hit any of the cage bars..easily done buy observing your current system..yes, I am living vicariously through you...LOL..also you could try a slotted metal wall design where the wall is formed like car hood scoops into the chamber to catch the water and divert it outward...Think "outside the box"..LOL
You should lighten the turbine disc and make it have 3 spokes that have rounded edges to reduce the drag and the spinning momentum or make a air tight housing so you can suck all of the air out of a tube that runs out the top of the housing to take away most / all drag from the air then when you go to run the turbine you continue to suck in air out of the tube that prevents water from getting in through a multi cone system. It may sound confusing to some people but it makes sense to me.
3:30 very interesting to see that the reflected water jet changes direction as RPM increases. at low RPM it's directed almost backwards, then there's a point (i assume it's where turbine linear velocity reaches 1/2 of the jet velocity) the jet is dispersed sideways, and then it's just slightly redirected. it also means that at low RPM it transfers the most impulse from the beam to the wheel.
If the RPM is lower than a peripheral velocity of 1/2 of the jet velocity, there will be a higher torque on the shaft, but still a lower power output as some kinetic energy is returned to the water as it's thrown back. The point of best efficiency and power output is in fact when the peripheral velocity is 1/2 of the jet.
Of course, if he didn't match up the generator to the turbine, the point of highest total electrical power output might be different from the optimal rpm of the turbine due to the efficiency curve of the generator.
@@jonsen2k i wonder if instead of regulating nozzle flow by a valve, it might be better to regulate it by changing nozzle width. this way one could find the sweet spot for jet velocity when it's neither reflected forward nor backward on optimal generator rpm.
Nice improvement, but you still need to encapsulate the turbine blades. What I mean is encase them in a circular shell so all the water is hitting the turbine and not splashing around. Nice improvement though. Also if you want to keep water away from the seal, then do what automakers use to do and use an oil slinger. Basically a circular piece of metal attached to the shaft, in front of the seal that keeps too much water from getting on the seal.
You must allow the newly implemented round tub to spin freely, this allows centrifugal force to force water to outside edge
Of all the suggestions I feel this might be the most technically complex to implement.
The circular drum might work better if it were perforated so the water could escape. Even better if the drum could spin with the turbine, the water would be spun out like a spin dryer but hey that's easy for me to say sitting here . Well done for what you have achieved I like that it is so easy to work on .
You want a 10 degree taper on the side walls. Also need to shield the jets.
A quick fix id like to see it the use a downward corkscrew water/ montage mitigation. For example, taking bike tires(cheap/readily available) cut diagonally(let's say 23°)across the width of said bike tires. Spiraling these big tire pieces downward from the direction of jet flow. I believe this would send all water and wind downward. This May not be a cheaper alternative in the long run vs angling your nozzles downward. I believe would save you the time developing a new set of spoons to add to your wheel and going through the process of lining everything back up. I can image this being done in several different ways but most ending in a slight increase in efficiency. On a stainless setup is where I see this becoming a bit tricky. Rolling the sheet stainless into shape my be your best bet.
Quentin Clark has a point. I remember looking at MWh pelton wheel housings, of the ones I've seen the shaft was horizontal, the nozzle came in from the side at the lower side of the wheel. Loads of space for the water to deflect and down and out away from the wheel. Not really applicable here but with the circular housing looks like the right idea, but it looks like it needs to be alot larger for it to work to keep windage away from the wheel.
if you give the water an exit in the corners where the reflex off of the blades that appears to be in the corners . use the corners as a drain.
If you cut a hole in the liner where the water is splashing back at 4:31. The water would (hopefully) get trapped in the corner behind the liner and drop away
Interesting. Have you thought about perforating or slotting the circular baffle?, just enough barrier to prevent the splashing back but thick enough to slow the water down and reduce the splashes from the square edges. This is all about impedance matching - ideally, it should look like there is no enclosure at all. I don't know if any of what I'm saying will really help, but that's what I'd be tempted to try
3:15 watching the wires chill in the water
Drill holes in axial alignment with the turbine spoons in the round liner. This would allow the water into the gap between the round and square housing segments and likely eliminate all splash-back...
Looks like just about anything to get the 'spent' water away would be helpful, gap in the top, holes/slots/diverter vanes. Perhaps even a stainless steel blower wheel (I.e. what gets use in HVAC blowers) with the vanes in the right direction could be an off-the-shelf solution that could be modified to work for your final enclosure? Just something to catch the water, move it away from the wheel to get it into an outer portion of the enclosure where the water can drop down to the drain.
You need some strategically placed louvers in the cylindrical turbine housing to allow water to escape out and not be recirculated and churned in the path of the pelton wheel. The louver principle is very much like a windage tray inside the reciprocating crankcase of a common internal combustion engine.
there is actually an ideal gap between the spoons and your outer wall. look into fan ducting, it's the same idea. but you really only want like 0.25-0.5" of clearance with the spoons, and you should probably drop your headspace above the spoons to about the same. what's the id you need, because I may be able to help you out with some stainless tube that's the right size
Hello Joe, I think if you have mesh wall like a washing machine, that should cure most of the problem , reduced splash back. I love your video
you need to take the insert and flare it out so it's wider on the bottom than it is on the top. that will keep water to the outside insert and direct it downward naturally
Try a volute casing. Works in centrifugal pumps so in theory should avoid splash back on the pelton wheel because of the increasing diameter.
You could buy some thick *plastic* cutting boards (a.k.a. butcher blocks) for housing material instead of stainless. I'm not sure how they compare based on price, but neither one would warp from moisture.
Look into windage trays for engines. They have slots so the oil can escape easily into the pan and get out of the crank case. Something similar here would let the water escape from the wheel and help keep it from splashing back.
Hi Make a new enclosure using the same lid but with 4 new sides at steep angles like a pyramid or tank armour to angle the overspray down to the ground. You would need to make nozzle extensions though.
Another idea is to cut strategicly placed vents in your baffle, sort of like the vents in a windage tray in a crank case of a motor.
I very much like the work you did with connections, concrete, etc, to make it easy to work on. These things need a lot of work at first when efficiency improvements are being done.
I'd do a lot more experiments before committing to stainless. Get all the flow and bouncing issues/opportunities solved first.
Whatever bouncing issue you have with the top, is likely happening on the bottom as well. You may want to increase the height of the box by a foot to prevent any bouncing from the bottom.
With all respect you must do the math and come to the accumulative water mass to make a circular housing, there can be no cavitation just free water. On racing boats this used to take years to figure out. Cavitation is death, to this type of build. Great effort and videos, and I am a subscriber. Cheers.
Think of it like a rain tire. Shed the water by using radial cuts that direct water outside the circular baffle.
I would direct the jet toward the spoon as usual and add a baffle just at the initial impact spot(direct the initial), then after do the radial openings that direct water away.
Most have suggested as I was going to suggest. Cone shaped shroud.
You should do a slope for the water to go down (a conic shape)
Don't overthink it. Make an adjustable frame inside the concrete pit, mount the jets and then use a large piece of clear polycarbonate to mount the Alternator / Pelton. Essentially, larger scale of what you have now, just the poly goes to entire edges to sopt water coming on-top. Now you will have heaps of room for water the get away from the wheel.
make the round liner a bell shape so the system can make a vortex draft to suck the water down but to do so you will need to add a vent at top of box I believe 3x 2 inch PVC riser tubes in your setup will work so that way will build a vacuum that will draw the water down and out of the turbine path so it isn't recutting its turbine drive water.
whether a round or square housing- After the water hits the paddles divergence needs to take place. Find out where the water goes after the paddles, trap it and get it out of the housing eliminating its ability to slow forward movement of the wheel.
As theoretically, water should lose all speed and drop dead, it falls vertically down and crosses the space where the spoons move.
It could be interesting to make a U-shaped sheet metal profile like a sharp edged tunnel, where the cup can continue once all water of the jet has exited the cup.
The MPPT may find that such a cover eliminates plashing and increase the RPM slightly to give the used water a slight forward motion.
It may be possible the cup should be shaped or angled to eject water slightly radial outwards and not mirror it in reverse so drop on the wheel.
The wheel with a smaller diameter has the advantage of larger distance between the cups and the cups curving off to allow for a "drop-zone" where there is no cups in the way. The MPPT may increase RPM a bit and allow for a residual velocity that moves water away.
Any water in a slight forward motion should be guided in a curve to move vertically down and out.
How a single spoon is best located maybe can be checked by observing how a low pressure jet actually splits the water over the engagement cycle.
This looks like so much fun!
I just had a thought -- maybe if you made the housing conical so that it gets larger as it goes down to deflect the water downward it would reduce splashback. Like how a bullet trap is angled down instead of flat to prevent backward ricochet.
You don't need to make it a circle. You just need 2 inputs and 2 outputs. Example: The water jet will shoot out the water directly towards a output valve that's feed into the second input water jet. Then have the second input water jet shooting towards the second output valve that's feed into the first input water jet line. It would give release of friction that's causing back pressure from it bouncing off of the walls inside of the box. It would cause a vortex suction on the output valves which would pick up the water speed flowing. At that point I would be worried about water proofing the bearings and heat deterioration.
Wh6 not have a cone shaped umbrella spaced over the impeller for the water to pass under but the splash would deflect away
Ide say have your houseing as close to the blades as possible to maximise flow, turbines are tight in fit not smaller than the housing
I would say if you tighten up the clearance of the round housing to the turbine it will help.
I would put some slots/louvers in the round wall. 1 or 2 just before the corner of the square frame should allow the excess water to get out and not stay in the main chamber rotating. That is only if the round wall increased efficiency.
You should use porous layer of spiral casing so it would absorb the splashing water. just give it a try. You can just get a mesh guard sheet and install it as you did in this video.
Awesome videos man. I've always loved your channel since you where at your old house. The new house is even better and to me although it's not always providing water it's still a awesome property for hydro. My next house when i look for one will have to have some kind of spring or water higher in elevation so I can make one. I already have 1.1kw solar system I built.
I wonder if an inverted bowl enclosure might be useful? At the angle of the jet and spray off the spoons, the side of the bowl at that point would encourage the splashback, and really any water which is ejected from the turbine as it spins, to be forced downwards and away, out of the enclosure.
Greetings from Chapel Hill NC 🤘.
I've been following you for some time now.
Apologies for not subscribing sooner.
You're working projects are fantastic.
I've a few ideas:
1. Run at higher voltage like 120vdc, there is smart drive motor with quality seals and bearings available anywhere, capable of much higher power output.
2. This will lower the amps and you'll require much thinner wire.
Other than this I don't have anything else to add.
I got a couple of probably dumb questions here:
1) Where is this water coming from?
2) Does he pay for that water?
3) Is he wasting the water or where is the water going to?
@@davidmoody7068 thanks for explaining
Of course the water have to go somewhere. Can you try some kind of open frame?
And please fix up the electric connections and maybe use bigger cables.👍
If u can direct the level of water vertically you could focus it downward and stop it from disrupting the jets.
*@Joe Malovich*
eg: 9:40 -ish. Maybe you can build a kind of protective cover for the jet-beam "upstream" inside the turbine, so the used water that goes around the edge doesn't cover the beam & both re-direct the beam & "steals" momentum from the beam.
You need NO HOUSING AT ALL other then a wall to keep water away from the generator. It is important that after the water jet hits the wheel, that it is free to exit without ever hitting the wheel again. your "box" should have top only, no walls. If things are set up properly, you should see jet hit wheel and exit 180 degrees from entrance direction. (Some of your jet appears to miss the wheel or wheel is spinning too fast). This exit water must be free to fall to the lower sump, well below the wheel.
Another thing: the wheel peripheral speed should be a little less then half the water jet speed. The water should hit the wheel, make 180 degree turn, and ideally be almost stopped, just moving enough to "get out of the way" and fall to the sump without ever touching the wheel again. If the wheel is not loaded enough, the water will continue past it despite hitting the buckets correctly (as it appears in the video).
Ideally you need "maximum power point tracking" system to adjust the load on the wheel to maintain the 1/2 speed condition.
Backflow is also disrupting your water jet causing pulsing
just before you mentioned a possible short, I noticed that the connectors for the 3 wires appeared to be in the water. That would tend to cause a shirt
I would suggest making that housing not round but conical, so that the water would bounce more downwards to the outlet. Second thing - try a fine metal mesh, it significantly reduce splashes.
Damn, I see your next video. :-))) It's a cone!
You could use a Bundt cake tin at the top of the turbine so the water stays inside the turbine housing, rather than splashing over the top as well as keeping the water inside the circle. I'm not sure how the water exits your turbine, but you might want to join two bundt cake tins to surround the turbine and concentrate the flow.
The circular enclosure certainly helps reduce inefficiency of the current system, but why not use the redirected water as a secondary power source? Expand the enclosure. Add two small wheels in the path of the water ejected from each side of the primary wheel. Rather than that high speed ejected water simply being diverted, it can generate power. One large generator and wheel, two small generators and wheels. Less wasted energy. Not sure how your current system would handle three separate generators all at different outputs though.
You could try go with a turgo turbine design to help direct the water downwards.
Create a downward drawing vane type turbine in a round housing to reduce the eddy effects generated by the hydraulic bypass.
If you want to keep the small circular housing you should make kind of vent holes. The ones you might find ontop your microwave and that pop out a little. As soon as t he water rides the sides it should flow out
you can get Teflon carving boards at dollar general to replace the plywood...
Looking into my dust collector the dust is by a fin or curved blade that. Diverts the dirt away from the walls . I’m sure you don’t need my advice , but there seems to be a similar situation.
i think if you take the sleeve and perforate it with holes i think it would work great as the water would get caught by the perforations and drip down to the drain
i think just havving a big circular housing with more space for water to escape rather then a box, then it would even be easier to make out of stainless?
Have you considered abandoning the traditional turbine? and moving to a centrifugal pump, used as a generator? Actually sealing the water could lead to a significant improvement in efficiency.
Maybe a half-a donought-shaped housing yould increase the efficency. So the water can't hang around in the housing, but is forced downwards to the exit in a twirl.