Conical Turbine Housing, An Improvement?
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Eventhough there was no noticed improvement there was a visible clear advantage, I suspect the difference would stand out under a higher flow rate.
Current bottlenecks:
-Still only a 12V DC system, the Midnite Classic doesn't like to PWM down to 12V from high input voltages.
-Input wires are now a limitation, amps are higher and the extension cord I'm using is only 16 gauge. I'm pusing 7 Amps through it which over the distance probably results in a noticable difference. I have 4 gauge aluminum wire to bury.
-Windage reduced with a round housing, a Turgo will solve the issue.
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Hey Joe, I have 3d printing company that specializes in large objects. I wonder if we could get a CAD design of the ideal housing shape, we could print one for you for fun. Interested?
we would love that im invested in thiss project now
Is there a way to make one that can hold jets for a turgo turbine and also jets for a pelton turbine? This would allow the owner to choose which type of turbine to install, while allowing experimentation between the two types.
I think 3D printed housing will do u better than that plywood one and it will not deteriorate for quite sometime,
There has to be a magic ratio for optimal enclosure size and waste water expulsion.
Any luck so far?
I'm so glad you aren't just ignoring the comments and actually trying them keep it up man I enjoy the videos
I try.
I do read every comment, I'm not THAT big yet.
@Simpsmud2020 mud - You would need an additional power source to pump that water back up, otherwise, you're describing a perpetual motion machine. The only way this could keep up with the water being discharged would be if he was literally harnessing less than half of the water available, because you would need at LEAST as much power to raise the water back up again - and that's with 100% efficiency. In reality, you'd need to spend more energy re-elevating the water than you were extracting from it in the first place.
Plus, 5000 litres is a pittance compared to what he uses - he measured 9gal/min which is rougly 30 litres / minute.... that's just under 3 hours of run time.
Simpsmud2020 mud the 2nd law of thermodynamics makes that impossible. Necessarily, the machine would have to be more than 100% efficient to do that and also produce power. What he could do is capture the spent water, run it through filtration and softening, and collect it in a tank in the basement with a pump to pressurize it to mains pressure. Then he could replace his water main connection with a connection to that, and boom free water on top of the free power he’s making.
commenting because asking nicely DOES work, and I did sub becasue u asked last time... i have been watching for a few weeks, figured it was the absolutely least that i can do
Thanks!
Just wanted to thank you for continuing to put out videos in this crazy time. The distraction is welcomed. I think we are all realizing that there is only so much Netflix you can watch. Nice to see the project coming along.😊
You're welcome!
Offtopic but: try to find a „circular Polarisation filter“ for your camera lens, one you can turn; they help removing reflections on non metallic surfaces
They work great on dash-cameras for cars too! :-)
I'll look into them.
The commercial peltons ive seen have the axis of the wheel in the horizontal configuration to use gravity to strip the water from the cups. The nozzles are stacked on the down spin side and the water evacuates before it can make the corner back up the wheel.
Please pull your electrical connections out the water!! The cable will get all wet and start corroding, and it annoys be every video!!
I will continue to do it to annoy you!
@@JoeMalovich It's possible it'll wick up the wire into the motor too.
@@JoeMalovich Tee Hee!
9ff70f96 yep by capillary effect
He Will P if you don't do what he asks.
What if you used a tire? For your housing?? It’s round, free you could still screw your lexan on too.
Wheelbarrow wheel cut in half and skirted?
A tire hub, I assume you mean? Metal, already has a center hole, cheap if not free...
a good idea, not good for video since it's opaque though. I might try a 2L bottle though!
@@JoeMalovich A 5 gallon water jug for glenwood englewood water coolers. Plastic, easy to work with, and a centerd hole for water to run out.
The problem with your system is you are not thinking outside the box. And the box is your problem, it is containing waste water, not shedding it. An open frame is a better solution, once the water has impacted the pelton wheel you must clear the excess water away as quickly as possible. A round frame with 16 over lapping static blades in a spiral design would duct waste water away from the pelton and keep from rebounding back thus reducing drag to a minimum.
Salute. ppcli 4 life
You should install a water holding tank for when water is in short supply and could also maintain a higher operating pressure!
For clamps I would recommend T-bolt hose clamps over the worm type clamps they are still relatively inexpensive but are a lot more reliable especially in applications where they are taken on and off and have a fair amount more of clamping pressure before failing for the same given size. Downsides they are not as wide ranging in the size of hose they can clamp onto.
I sourced some t-bolt clamps from ebay.
@@JoeMalovich your normal hose clamps would hold up better if you would stop using an impact to tighten them
@@lufles01 then I can't get them tight enough.
@@JoeMalovich You can also find T bolt clamps at heavy duty truck parts dealers in case you ever need them quickly.
theupinsmoke1234 I use them on my car coolant system.
That is looking alot better. I think all you can do now is make a bigger housing and form the cone better. Keep up the great work! I love free energy! All I have is solar but it's so worth it.
I wonder if a fine mesh would work to prevent water bouncing back - just fine enough to slow and break-up the droplets.
Joe, just thought, CAD a rough shape of the the turbine blades. Then, using that diagram, design a negative (of the turbine cavity). Slice it up and 3d print it. Glue all the splices together and use automotive body filler to fill and smooth the surfaces. Apply high build primer and sand smooth. Paint with a glossy thick coat and allow to cure in the sun or an oven at 140. Then fiberglass the negative to form a positive turning housing.
I'm building a turgo in a stainless housing in short order.
6:27 - it bothers my ocd to see your connections submerged.
wet/corroded/oxidised connections will dramatically influence your power output.
The tire shaped housing is a good idea. A tight fit should help transfer. Scrap the cone, keep the housing tall. Cut slots to channel excess draft above turbine.... **(study the path of the draft, bend the housing into an elipse that guides the draft to promote maximum kinetic retention and guide the excess away from the turbine..)** Look up how they frame skateboard ramps and fit the parabola pieces into the outer housing so you don't need to struggle with getting the housing mounted every time you try a new prototype... I hope it helps, good luck and great experiments..! You're pioneering is an inspiration to us all... =)
Good work Joe, sounds less noisy also.
very quiet, but I fear a bearing is going.
@@JoeMalovich better fix it before it explodes
@@JoeMalovich if so, you can bring the bearings to a bearing retailer and ask them if there's an upgrade you can replace it with.
I have also found that many so-called permanent bearings seem to not have enough grease in them. Normally you can pop the seal off the side of the new bearing with a small screwdriver, then add high quality synthetic grease about three quarters of the way around. Leave a small amount of air for expansion.
I subbed because you give an honest listen and you asked. May I suggest doing a bit of a better design on the cone and testing it when water pressure is up? An octagonal housing would make it easier to ensure a good angle to discharge water down. Just a thought and I like what you are doing. Cheers!
I'm not a hydro-scientist by any means, however, I am a mechanic. When building an engine for performance, one of the ways you improve your performance is by using a windage tray which fits near the crankshaft. What it does is, as the crankshaft spins around, oil is ejected from off of the crankshaft. Without a windage tray, the oil bounces off of the walls of the block and back at the crankshaft. When it hits the crankshaft, it reduces the performance. How does this apply to you? You need to scavenge the water after it hits the turbine spoons (whatever you call the objects the water is hitting as it comes out of the nozzles) so it doesn't hit the spoons again, reducing efficiency. You could accomplish this taking a thin piece of stainless steel sheet and cutting slats into it, with protrusions pointing out towards where the spoons are at. I could draw a better picture than I'm describing it, lol. Better yet, the following image may explain better: www.vividracing.com/wm.php/images/20-914.jpg
I'm moving away from this style for windage issues.
Joe, Since you are testing, Why not try an open type frame, This should be fairly easy to do!
William Glaser yeah I was thinking the same. 2 bits of angle iron to hold jets, 1 bar from one side of concrete to other with bearing to support wheel with a 2-3’ shaft going up to inverter so it is able to be kept dry.
still very splashy with the velocities involved. The runner needs to be enclosed.
@@JoeMalovich can i suggest the most important thing is the angle to deflect the water straight down rather than it being round (although it doesnt hurt to do both) would it not be worth trying a flat topped pyramid box with the sides at 45degrees, any water moving horizontally would deflect vertically down though you would still want at least six inches of clearence below the turbine to avoid general spray, it would be a fairly simple plywood build and avoids any awkward shapes
What if you get a bigger piece of lexan and mount your nozzles to it. Have the shut offs up by the pressure gauge. And leave it wide open below the sheet of lexan? Also can you put a longer shaft on it to get the wheel away from the bearings?
New to your channel so if you've shown this clearly I've not seen it just yet. You may want to consider a reconfigure of your Battery System to 24 or perhaps 48 Volts. Granted it will reduce your capacity but charging will be greater as you seem to constantly run @80ish volts. Your Charger is working overtime reducing the 80 volts to 12 which results in heat exchange. Since your water is 24/7ish the reduced battery capacity might not be an issue. I am learning 48 Volts seems to be the Standard and everything just seems to work better at that range. Wires don't tend to heat up as easily because with more volts is less heat. Again I don't don't know how many batteries you have. Also you'd need to reduce 48 to 12 which is easily done with converters and whatnot. Just a thought...
48v is in the fiture.
Recently I saw a similar full size generator on national geographic or the discovery channel, and they went inside the chamber with the pelton rotor, and I noticed that it was a very large oversized space. The ideas with cone shapes and all that works very well for filtering water and air and such, but I think that in your particular setup you just need more space inside the box. Forget about complicated cones and shapes, just make a bigger round shaped box where the water doesn't interfere with the pelton spoons. If I were you I would recycle the box that you have and make it bigger. Or....what other people suggested as well, an open frame for testing purposes only. At this stage of development you don't even need a closed box.
I'm moving to a turgo in a stainless housing. An open frame would not be good, too much water spraying around hydrating the turbine will cause corrosion issues, and an open frame makes it more difficult to mount and align jets.
@@JoeMalovich I meant that suggestion just for testing purposes. When you try an open frame you can at least see the results without any water interference, so that gives you a number that you can use as a baseline for the maximal performance. All you need is a piece of wood or a piece of steel and a clamp to create something that holds the nozzle in place. I don't see the complication with that. Once you know for sure what difference it makes you can make a final design based on facts instead of guessing and trying to figure out what's happening. But you are free to do what you want, it's your project not mine. I am just saying what I would do if I had a limited budget and limited resources.
Been watching your videos for a bit now and just wanted to thank you for all that great great content. It would be great if you could show us the state of the spring after all this time!!
i was up there 2 weeks ago, some dirt fell in on the weir btu it still works.
Windage is an issue in high rpm motors and we used windage trays to remove the flying oil away from the crank and rod ends. Some people use a combination of windage tray and crank scraper. Anything you can do to get the drag off the rotating part will be beneficial. SB cheys often see a 1% HP increase at relatively low RPM's 5,000rpm, at higher RPM it's even better.
An oil pan with a kickout is also beneficial in reducing windage.
All those proven hot rod tricks would apply to your very interesting project :-)
thanks for the knowledge
I'll try this on my own home here on the Philippines
since we do have unlimited water from a water fall
Am enjoying the video series. Think a lot of pelton wheels are mounted vertically to mitigate these splash back problems. When vertical the top jet drains in the direction of rotation and the bottom jet hits over the drain port.
NAPA sells stainless T-bolt clamps, if you measure your pipe\hose and use those you may get much better clamping power. I wonder if a louvered inner case would prevent the splashback? Maybe get one of those mudflaps trucks use with the "fur" that keeps spray down and wrap it around as an enclosure?
BLKMGK4 now that’s an idea
I sourced some t-bolt clamps from ebay. Louvers are a viable option.
Your video came up on my RUclips recommended list so just started watching.
Have you tried reducing the gap between the spoons and the internal liner? I agree with you about angling the spoons down slightly so it directs the water downwards and out of the way.
Hi. Cool project. Proposal for improvement: try til remove the box around the turbine completely. Weld a steel frame that holds the turbine 0,5 meter above the floor and let the water hit the walls. You can place some covers on top of the frame to keep the water from the electrical equipment. And also place the valves on top of the frames for easy operation. Think that will improve efficiency quite a bit.
I know it may be too complicated, but if you´re willing to, there are cylindrical designs that incorporate consecutive narrower loops to increase pressure before delivering it to the turbine. Kinda like the designs that some industry hydric generation plants use. Could yield better results for lower flow days.
you should think about putting a Gas/air trap in the line to prevent the blasts of air on the turbine. Great videos
90° elbow fitting will impact the flow especially when high flow. Try using multiple bigger angle fittings together or just connect it with pipe
Ooh...what about slits half way to the next inlet? So the water from the previous rotates to the outside of the round inner housing and cant interfere with the action of the next jet?
You got it buddy, subbed.
That design looks like it would subject the wiring to a lot of humidity. I'd think you would want to create some sort of barrier between the box and the open drain. No standing puddle of water to evaporate in the chamber.
i think you need a bigger box, so the water and gravity has time to get out of the way down
maybe redesigning the box by allowing the "jet water" exit directly through the side wall of the box. The "side wall" of the box, is facing directly to the "jet water". "exit would" style.
May I suggest that you add a closed tank of some sort to your incoming line. The hose from the well goes into the tank, the water slows down and any debris falls to the bottom of the tank while the water continues out in a hose on the other side and in to the turbine. If you let the tank contain some air in the top, it will also reduce any spikes in the water pressure.
Try making a Windage tray for it. Look up ones used for automotive applications. They function to catch excess oil caught up in the rotating crank assembly and allow it to fall back to the oil pan. In your case, you could make a circular one which fits closely around the outer diameter of the driven wheel and has angled radial slots which will catch the water, deflect it, and slow it as it spins with the wheel, allowing gravity to pull it to the drain.
Fun stuff! Really enjoy this journey. Keep it up!
Joe you're experiments are interesting. What I could tell you from being in the hydro generating field for many years is that you are using the wrong turbine for the flow rates you have available to you. The Pelton you are using is designed for The direct opposite application you are using it for.It is a pulse turbine used for low flow high head pressures over 300m. The low volume you experience would eliminate the use of a Kaplan Turbine used for the opposite conditions that being high flow low head. Which again you do not have coming from the drain pipe. Both will work to some degree but will do so with terrible loss of efficiency. Which you are trying to overcome by nozzle alignments and a housing. With regards to a difference of flow rate.. NO the flow rate is determined by the nozzle size and as I mentioned the Pulse turbines efficiency is determined by pressure not flow. For what you are trying to accomplish with you're flow and pressures the better option by far would be a Francis Turbine which is a type of hybrid between the afore mentioned Pelton/Kaplan Turbines The Francis Turbine operates in a mid flow mid pressure range. Good luck in you're endeavor.
Note: you're location is not great you are lacking the real potential energy to drive a turbine to any degree. you must have either high volume flow or a high head pressure. The meter or so head you have and the trickle of water you have to work with is not a good start. The solution would be a small damn at a 30 meter elevation higher than you're Turbine. Then you will see what you are looking for. To store the energy cheaply store the power as hot water in your home or use the power to compress air and use an Air turbine to release it.Yes it is somewhat less efficient than say a battery bank but much more cost efficient. And you're power costs are not a factor because you are self generating it so it far and away a better option than batteries. The system you have creates a trickle charge at best I'm guessing it would take you years of operation with the current setup to re coop you're startup cost. With the low head pressure you have any amount of Load would stall it in an instant. Remember the Pelton operation has nothing to do with flow ONLY pressure, this is key! The housing is just redirecting waste water flow nothing more. To demonstrate the point just replace you're low pressure water with a high pressure air line and the pelton will take off like a scalded cat :)
Here is a far better visual of what I have said. ruclips.net/video/k0BLOKEZ3KU/видео.html
For you're application this may be the answer or something similar. ruclips.net/video/mXJQrxEKxMQ/видео.html or this model ruclips.net/video/0hcGnysoUFI/видео.html
Congratulations, you have raped grammar...
Holy shit dude, how can you have such bad grammar when you obviously know the language so well? It hurts to read...
It really says something about people in general that even when talking about a thing like this, most comments are dumb, misspelled and has the grammar of a primary school kid having a stroke while on drugs.
@@MuscarV2 Hey I don't appreciate negative comments of this magnitude on my channel. He/she means well albeit misinformed.
All your charts don't apply for Microhydro as small as this. Pelton or Turgo turbines are the only turbines that function under highly variable flow rates and massive (in terms of Microhydro) head pressure as I have.
Also as an educational channel the system had paid for itself on day zero through RUclips ad revenue.
@@JoeMalovich With any nozzle or pipe for that matter the only restriction to flow is the diameter of the exit. Water cannot be compressed like air as I'm sure you know. Given your fixed nozzle size and static head those are the restricting factors. You are at maximum flow and pressure when your bucket overflows. There is no other way to increase your flow unless you either use a bigger nozzle or increase the head pressure.Both the Turgo and and the Pelton are high pressure turbines. Can you run them on low pressure well sure you can you could spin it with your finger and get a voltage. Your head of (I'm guessing 1m) will deliver 1.5 PSI compared to house pressure of 40/60 PSI. In the case of the Pelton its the pressure delivering the energy not the flow rate. Inversley a Kaplan or a water wheel for that matter just rely on flow volume not pressure to do work. I'm not suggesting what you are doing is wrong in any way just that its the least efficient way to generate power under the conditions I observed. Cheers.
He has 83.8 meters of head, up to 1.9lps of flow. He states that in a earlier video. Quite a bit more than 1m.
Could be useful to put that in the description I suppose. Fun to watch this process.
Hey so if you ever make another temporary box out of plywood, make sure to paint it really good and then let that dry and then use never wet from rustoleum as the final topcoat and then it will literally never be wet. It’s some sort of nano coat that prevents water from sticking to surfaces
Epic videos Joe, keep up the great work!
Mounting it vertical will allow the water to escape without falling back through the turbine.
Christian Strohmaier Yes, another good idea.
horizontal is better for the bearings. He just needs a proper shaped housing. He could also consider just submerging that part of the turbine entirely and get rid of the nozles. Just use the water pressure like a tesla turbine does.
ive been watching a few of your videos, i was thinking a design that closely hugs around the impeller and has an opening where the water splashes out would greatly reduce drag on the impeller from bachsplash while increasing the windage. i wish i was good at drawing but sadly not, basically placing the impeller in a housing covering it with an outlet for the outer splash could have benefits.
nice vids man, i've jumped through a bunch, keep up the great work
You have a lightly loaded rotor - the water rotates in the direction of the turbine. When the rotor is overloaded, the water twists against the turbine - it is returned by slow-moving spoons. At ideal load, the water falls directly down. The picture from Donald is good, but it only drains the sprayed water down the wall, without dripping on a spoon. Turbines with a horizontal axis do not have this problem. Try reducing the wheel diameter, adjusting the speed, or changing the drive settings. Compare the speed of the water with twice the speed of the spoon - the water will stop and will not swirl.
For content - maybe do a 3d printed cone. Make it in 4 parts (so it fits your printer). Have two parts that are fixed in and two (where nozzles are) that slide in (like a sleuce gate) but have a slot for the nozzles. I can email you my idea if you want.
I have a 3d printer and have though of this, but I'm abandoning this style of turbine for a turgo in a stainess housing.
Joe Malovich will you have a circular cone shape or pyramid shaped stainless housing? Also with low flow rate - if you increased your reservoir capacity would have enough volume to account for the inflow flow reduction (so you can run longer with out lowering output to avoid sucking air etc).
So I have a very ignorant question. I know nothing about what you're doing here but it's very very cool. How much electricity is that set up producing at full powerr in terms of " it'll run a lightbulb" or "it'll run my HVAC unit". I'm just amazed that amount of water can produce that much force to spin your turbine so fast. Again... Very cool
Oh cutting slots at the top of the inner housing above the turbine is to channel that expended low velocity draft OUT of the inner housing....BTW... =) Probably should try to keep as much kinetic energy within the housing as possible. It's gotta be a tighter fit...!
Don't know though, both theories could end up being counter productive. Could be that the round housing is maintaining a lot of that velocity, transferring more KE before the spent flow drops out of the vortex... right..? Oh and placing a small intermittant tank with an overflow loop a couple yards up the hill the would keep the flow steady and maintain the same flow..... like a water capacitor.... =) happy generating...! Love watching....
You should try using a dimpled surface (like a golf ball) in your turbine housing to distribute the flow of water over the surface to reduce the drag.
Why are you always going for a smooth surface on the cone guard ? Wouldn't deflectors be more advantageous ? You are trying to take spill energy out of the water when it leaves the turbine. That energy is deflecting back to turbine after hitting the wall impeding the turbine. Light reflecting off multiple surfaces will dissipate to nothing (lose all energy). Pressure waves of air lose energy by slowing down and expanding (gun silencer.) On Dams that have releases water flows across multiple steps or a hydraulic jump. Given your setup a jump is not possible (gravity needed). Your next best option is a set of baffles (deflection type) all pointing downwards to your water drain. Your little rock in the video is a perfect example of what you need to do. Use a large tube with lots of small deflectors inside. Trying to stop all flow energy is impossible given your small space. Since you are only using two flow injectors only two flow reducing tubes need to be made. Take the cone out, use two 4" PVC tubes with lots of small rocks glued inside. Point the tubes downwards towards the bottom drain. The opening of the PVC tubes may have to modified to catch the deflection water over multiple flow rates. Think along the lines of turbine impellers reversed to catch the flow. Thinking about the rocks to be used. Small rocks at the opening getting larger ones towards the bottom opening.
A lot of info provided, hope you got the gist of what I tried convey.
This handles any water flying out well so doesn't really need changed but I still have water flying straight up and inwards.
Cool
Get yourself a traffic "CONE" for your housing, hint in the name of it. The square base is close to the size of you box you are using now. If not you can select what section you want to use which is suitable. Easy as mate
R & D is so interesting.
Hi Joe. I have seen several of your videos now on some of the changes you have made your small hydro turbine. I think it's awesome! In every video I have seen since you upgraded to a bigger diameter turbine there has been water splash back. Would the water splash back be reduced if the size of the box/ housing increased? My train of thought is this... If the housing was bigger while the nozzles remained in the same location and distance from the turbine, there would by more distance for the water to travel before hitting the side and "bouncing" back to cause drag on the turbine. By having a larger housing, you would reduce the bounce back while still keeping the splash confined to housing. A bigger housing could incorporate some of the other concepts such as using a cone. If you try this, let us know how it works???
I haven't watched all of your videos, but the top of your alternator looks like and impeller to me. Is there any point to it? If not i would suggest trying to remove it, it's probably creating a substantial amount of drag. Keep up the good work though!
No worries, the vertical configuration would probably be easier to to make at home, just the rest of the setup becomes annoying then. Always fun to play with though.
Hey, the first comment I posted didn't go through...
Anyway. As I had posted earlier.....
The tire shaped housing was a tgreat idea... that would help direct the catch* and transfer more KE into the torque... scap the cone, keep the housing tall and just cut slots to channel the excess draft out. Study the path of the draft and bend then inner housing into an elipse to promote better kinetic retention and to gently guide that spent up low velocuy draft away from the turbine. Look up how they frame skateboard ramps and fit the parabola pieces ino the main housing so that you don't need to struggle with mounting the inner housing every time you replace it or secure a new prototype. Also, why not just 3d print the cone and mount that as a cap over the round housing..!?
Oh, one last thing, you probably already did this but it doesn't seem like it... * if you place a small intermittent water tank, with an overflow loop setup inside it would regulate a steady flow rate for the inlet without sacrificing any pressure.. it also serves as a convenient "mass filtration" system opportunity for less frequent msintainance problems. Any debree would need to pile up before even beginning to slow the system down and mostly eliminate any stoppages to the inlet..
I hope it help of you do try..!
Good luck, your pioneering is an inspiration to us all...!
Great experiments..!
Happy trials..
Love watching...! =)
Ps the tank acts like a capacitor to regulate the flow ... obviously...
Looks like it's doing good! Where did you get your spoons, I've been buying things for a similar project, but can only find them assembled. Thanks! Keep on keepin on
Pelton turbines are only optimal for pressures over 1000 feet drop.
Looks like your supply needs better ventilation to stop that surging.
You might also want to use Venturi nozzle to pull air in giving you the same or a little more force with less water
Just a thought but if you want a bell shape why don't you modify something that is already close to that shape instead of reinventing the wheel?
As example...
a smooth angel cake bake pan
an industrial light cover (spotlight)
etc...
a Bundt pan, yes but they aren't big enough.
@@JoeMalovich That's not the point of my comment.
@@rymichael7203 I'm moving away from this configuration to a turgo that won't have these problems.
Joe Malovich why, is the turgo going to be small enough to fit under a Bundt pan?
A turgo turbine won't need a specially shaped housing, all the water flows out the bottom.
If you have the rounded housing closer with relief cuts to scoop the water being the housing away from the turbine.
You’re doing great! Loving the videos!
Imho you are using too big nozzles or the spoons are set a bit too narrow for the geometry for your small Pelton spoons, so your spons get clogged with water, which causes much drag. To gain the same or even more power, try to fix it by using more small nozzles (up to 6). Side effect: You can more easily optimize your power outtake to the provided amount of water by simple switching on and off the nozzles.
If the liner was screw shaped you could focus the waste water downward and not have it affect the jets.
One test that would be fun to see is if the wheel has the power to run a cars AC pump. Why not take full advantage of the system to dump heat/cold into the house to match the season?
I plan on at least partially powering a minisplit to heat and cool my workshop.
Where is your water coming from I'm curious if you can use a water storage bin at a high point for gravity pressure and capture the water on the expelled end and use a electric pump to pump water back into the the feed bin
What you're describing is a perpetual motion machine. It would take more power to pump the water back up than the turbine would generate.
Maybe a couple of Fibonacci curve shaped baffles that start close to the nozzle but do not extend to the wall of the enclosure so when the water slows it hit the enclosure behind the second baffle and stops your splash back.
Seems better then the wooden deck you had before at least it does to me!
I wounder if you took a piece of 4" or 6" PVC, cut it in half lengthwise, then slowly heated it so that you could bend it into a circle around the outside of your Pelton wheel? The industrial Pelton wheels seem to be place in a housing that closer surrounds the wheel. Just a thought. I am learning a lot from your VLOG so keep up the good work!
I was going to place the same comment, why not to use an exponential spiral shape. the lower side near the jets and the big side 180 degrees away?? like the francis turbines ingress tube.
A fantastic idea! I'm always in favor of attacking problems with a heat gun and PVC
I'm curious, would building some form of reservoir help long term. I don't know the details of the full set up, but putting a large barrel or other container upstream help with head pressure even if it doesn't change flow rate overall. Although if it was large enough you could use it to gain more power overall by storing rain/snowmelt.
That's what I've been wondering! I see wavering pressure/voltage and I jump straight to a capacitor haha.
Like a water buffer... I like that idea
What is the advantage of this closed box situation..?? Seems there would be less interference if the turbine was open no?
keeps the water contained, preventing rust of the generator
Isn't it the other way around, if the turbine took up almost the entire space, with the housing a circular form and the jets machined into the housing at the correct angle? You would have an exhaust below perhaps, that might be a cone shape. Or the jet coming in one angle and the exhaust going out on the opposite side, a u shape? Just spit balling. Really interesting videos.
What if you lifted it up so that the generator is where the roof is right now, and put a second roof on the generator? Can we do picture comments here?
Wouldn't a plexiglass sheet or other between the turgo and generator serve the same purpose?
Just stumbled upon your channel and have been watching you for a few days. My first thought was why not add a few "baffles" where the splash hits the side wall? You could use the baffles to block the water and redirect it out. Idk if any of that makes sense or if I'm just throwing 2 cents at ya . In any case I look forward to seeing how it progresses.
Okayyy so lemme get this right... Am new to your channel.... So looking at your videos. So you saying... You have property land with creek on it... So you redirected the water the jet out into the turbine? Correct so far? And this is using kinetic energy?? And this in turn spins up the turbine and powers up your batteries and household?? Like what can yiu power up? Like the ENTIRE HOUSEHOLD? 😌 🙏 Thanks just trying to make sense of this all..... Seriously MINDBLOWN! All for free? Really? Wow
For your stainless steel housing, I like the cone, but how about some fins on the inside cone face directing the water downwards? All 316L SS 14 or 12 ga, fins probably only need to be strips 1/2" wide with a 15 - 20 degree angle / slope downwards, fillet welded both sides, all welds normalized to also deter corrosion. Also a cap ring on the small end of the cone to prevent deformation from the jets 3/4" tops.
On a different note, when you did the flow rate test, it appears to pulse out of the supply line. Is there a device to install to smooth the water flow to a steady flow rate?
Hey bro why don’t you try to put another hose by separated ? Because I guess it loses water pressure...because I see the same rpm when you open both of them at the same time I guess it’s not a good deal getting water current from the same duct or coming from the same main line it’s like you are realizing the pressure when you open the second water valve if it is separated I guess it would be a lot better ... well it’s just a suggestion ... good luck with your project !
The real question is, when are you going to connect yourself to the grid and start selling your excess power?
Now I am thinking about a capacitive water cistern part way down the hill... maybe 500 gallons?
a multi vane downward vectored tube butted up against an opposing multi vane cone inducing a vacuum to accelerate the discharge and remove the excess turbine drag...
What If you used a bucket to make a round splash guard.? It's bevel shape would direct the water down, and if turned upside down and the gen mounted on top, would replace the plexiglas and the box as well. maybe?
im a plumber and I just have to know where that hole in the bottom of the pit lead to.. I just discovered your channel and I really need to know where that hole leads just so I can sleep tonight lol
That was my first thought too! It looks like the natural spring would be draining right where he drains his box, so I think it goes right into the little stream that would naturally occur there. How close am I Joe?
🤔🤣🤣🤣
What about the large plastic water jugs? Should be easy to find and cut.
Slots in the inner circle to vent the water and prevent it splashing on the turbine
At this moment you will gain more by upgrading your wires. You should calculate your losses for the given lenght and wire thickness
I have, it's only 3%
Very beautiful, my dear, you are really wonderful and creative, I liked a lot and decided to work like you, but I would like to help you, dear, to clarify some things like the dynamo used. I do not know what type to use, and also the rotating feathers or the fin. What is its size? Thank you.
Maybe a perforated screen / mesh material bent in a circular shape. Allows water through but not easily back through.
I haven’t read all the comments so I’m not sure if it’s been suggested yet but couldn’t you get a tire that’s slightly larger than your turbine & cut one side out to create your structure that you need to direct the water down? I know it would make it difficult for viewing but i think it should work. It would be fairly inexpensive & would be a perfect shape for your project.
any reason not to just drop the box and just have some legs suspending the turbine that way the water can just get away after the initial blast/hit to the spoon.
too much water flying around woudl lead to fast corrosion on the generator.
Put some scallops in the walls to kill the splashed water and direct it away or better yet open the sides right up, set up the top like a tabletop with just legs to hold it up and hold the nozzles allowing all the splash to leave the area of the wheel unobstructed.
that is a viable option.
I don't know though, both housing theories could prove counter productive. Cutting slots at the top of the inner housing could channel some of the "still useful" draft out, causing torque losses. The idea is to keep as much KE within the housing to capture the max before the spent draft drops out of the vortex... right...!? The round housing does seem to retain most of the velocity.... it's gotta be a tighter fit...! Lol. =)
Hello love the content! I think a spiral water divider for both the top and the bottom would decrease the amount of water splashing back into The wheel increasing your efficiency and decreasing your drag I'd love to see this come to fruition in one of your designs let me know if this is possible and if so how it works out for you!
1 thing i was thinking was the angle of the nozzle... was thinking if you angle it like 5 - 10 degree so that it is hitting the bottom of the fins a little more just seems to centered on the fins and might gain a little more from the angle due to it putting more pressure on the bottom and them scooping up the fin ?.... just a thought
huh, t his is a lot of fun. Good work, i think it looks cool.
Iterative design like SpaceX or the Soviets! Love it
I think the idea is to deflect the water away from the impellers. So make a larger plenum to enclose the impellers. Also make it cone shaped to deflect the water down instead of back into the impellers. / \ .
Maybe if this was mounted in a squirrel cage fan the spent water would be taken outside the area to prevent the added back pressures?
large steel mixing bowl from a Restaurant supply cut out the bottom and feed it over the turbine
It looks like to me you still have water circulating around WITH the rotation of the wheel. Would it not be better if there were NO water circulating causing drag on the wheel? I would like to see you try your wheel with no liner, no walls. As soon as the water impinges upon the wheel, it just falls away / splashes away. What do you think of this idea? Thanks for sharing these videos with us.
I think when they said housing no one thought u would just add piece of round plastic or whatever material you used. Housing you are using is still cube in share. And u shrinked the inside by adding round piece of material. Put your machine in a sphere shaped object. As in entire object, not just inside a cube. Make that cube into ball.