Micro Hydro Increasing to a 6 inch Down Pipe
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This micro hydro unit has a short 4" down pipe from a pond of water. In this video I step up the down pipe to a 6" pipe to see if that will increase the power output. I probably should increase the 6" pipe all the way from the turbine down to the water. Perhaps we can do that in another video.
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Thanks for the shoutout Seth!
@@sam-and-angela happy to help!
Seth you should check out the comment from OpenSourceLowTech. He did a lot of work on a turbine setup much like yours. His got a lot more power out.
@@LandtoHouse Just a heads-up the link in the description is wrong.
@@hubrisnaut exactly what I was about to mention. He definitely needs to check it.
Having the whole draft tube 6" will definitely give you more power, obviously because more water will be drawn, but it'll also cut down on cavitation coming off your runner due to the water slowing as it enters wider pipe (in meters per second at least, the liters per second should be the same).
A battery is not the best choice of testing load, as the internal impedance changes with charge level. Washing soda liquid rheostat worked well for me and I can walk you through how to make one if you like, it's very easy.
Otherwise some nichrome toaster wire should also do a good enough job, and just light bulbs in a pinch, tho their resistance will quite possibly change as they heat up.
Going into the creek for maximum utilisation of drop is a good idea, you're long past the point of maintaining equilibrium with your water input rate so might as well just make it a decent test and let your pool refill in between.
What's now your total head, and any way of measuring the flow?
(Hope you're enjoying every third commenter telling you to put the turbine at the bottom of the pipe, and every fourth one asking if you can just put a pipe back up to the top and run the thing as an infinite loop. They'll keep doing that no matter how often you try to explain.)
I appreciate your expertise. With more than 6 years of ram pump work I have heard the “just take the waste water back to the top” a million times. As soon as I started working with hydro I started getting the “the turbine must be at the bottom” comment. Haha
Spencer shipped this turbine so that I can get lots of fun tests in. I am just having fun making as many changes as I can. Next I am going to glue in a 45 degree into the intake and take the 90 out. I will also see what a 6” pipe costs.
A washing soda rheostat would be fun! I have no idea how to make one so any help you can give would be much appreciated. I have purchased a hoverboard motor and would like to make a replica of your turbine. Would you be up for some email after I get done with this testing?
I am going to get a MPPT charge controller to get some better results. That with your rheostat I should be getting much better watts.
The total drop is around 8 to 9 feet. The flow rate I am not sure but it can pull as much as it needs to from the pond.
Yeah definitely email me with any questions.
I should probably also get around to doing a liquid rheostat build tutorial at some stage..
MPPT into a large enough battery at low state of charge would be better than rheostat IMHO. MPPT would effectively impedance match the source (alternator + flow rate) to the load (battery) and maximize total wattage for a given flow rate. Rheostat and resistors/saltwater would need constant adjustment and have to compensate for electrolysis and temperature change. Anything you can do to take the fallible human element out of the equation would be for the better.
Your main source of resistance is the effective area between the hub of the turbine and the walls of the pipe it's centered in. Changing pipe diameters might do more harm than good due to vortexing and/or cavitation at all of the new bends in the adapters. We want laminar flow as much as possible.
Running the turbine further down could provide benefit in cavitation reduction on the turbine blades since the mean pressure of the water is higher. But if that's not a problem at these pressures, (and I don't think it would be) you're right that putting the turbine lower wouldn't have an effect on power generating capability. Once the drop after the turbine gets closer to ~30ft, maybe you could make an argument involving phase change.
I was getting surprisingly strong cavitation of 2.5m drop, since it's added to by the water momentum, but flaring the pipe straight after the runner helped that quite a bit.
A rheostat would only really be helpful in calculating power curves, as you say by adjusting the resistance and then plotting multiple points of resulting volts and amps. If you want something to just hone in on the sweet spot itself then yeah a well suited MPPT charge controller would hopefully do a decent job.
@@OpenSourceLowTech i just ordered a mppt. I think it also has a readout of watts.
I need to glue joints because I am getting some air.
Today is full drop 4" filming.
Would be a good idea to try MPPT controller to increase efficiency of overall circuit - maybe 10%-15%. PWM controller will always pull the alternator to the battery voltage instead of allowing alternator to run at its most efficient
Open circuit was like 66v but it's being pulled down to 12ish volts so I imagine a moot or some kind of current limiting or input voltage limiting buck converter I bet it would close to double the power output
I made these post before the video was over but it's mostly corrected now
I would seal any joints upstream of the turbine in case they are pulling air into the system.
You are 110% correct. A needle size leak would cause massive losses in efficiency! Air is 25 times thinner than the water and will suck massive cavitation into the system every second it runs!
agreed.
Absolutely air leaks causing turbine cavitation MUST be stopped. Seal the joints!
They are sealed now. Video filmed and coming out soon!
Removing the bucket will help massively.
It is impeding water leaving the bottom of the pipe which will be manifesting as back pressure in the turbine.
When you extend the pipe to the bottom pool, make sure the outlet pipe is under the pools surface, that way you can take advantage of DELTA P and the pressure in your pipes. I would try every trick in the book and experiment with everything, including making your input pipe longer/deeper in the top pool.
Good thought on a deeper intake as it may take advantage of greater pressure at the intake although the weight of water above that may cancel it all. I think like Langston suggested, 6" all the way down starting with a 45 and go straight to the creek bed. Build a little pool to terminate in with some cement and the local rocks.
Alright, after careful consideration over the past few days, I'd like to share an intriguing idea. Imagine having a deep well from which water is siphoned out and then efficiently channeled back into the well. However, before the water is returned, it is temporarily stored in a tank, creating a valuable reservoir of readily available water for various purposes. This innovative approach allows us to harness potentially unlimited water resources while also presenting an exciting opportunity to generate sustainable electricity.
Hi there Seth, Firstly I think you need to wait a few seconds after starting the camera as the initial part of your voice is missing. Next, I think your power problem lies in the impeller design because under load the the impeller slows and the water then slips past the blades. I believe you need a more complex setup with two or three complete rotations of each of the three blades in order for the inertia of the water flow to exert a far greater torque on the turbine shaft.
A stator vane to counter the rotation would also help.
It seems like most of the comments covered everything. A steeper pitch on the impeller would net you more torque with your 12v pwm controller. A true hydro tuned mppt would be ideal with your current setup.
Exaclty!
I love to give you a little help with the micro hydro turbine. What I believe is that the impeller pitch is to conservative. You have a jet pump impeller in the tube, which is great for making pressure when driven by an engine. You need a higher pitch with with more blades. You don't have the pressure needed to convert to torque. A computer muffin fan can due a better job converting torque that you require.
This was close to my old setup about 8 years ago. There are some tricks to make it much better, but it'll take a little more money. First, to save the hassle of going up and down put in a T with flap valve on your intake in place of the 90. Above the T put a 2ft fill pipe with a removable cap (cap will have vacuum pressure gauge so you can monitor the water flow). Just before the generator should be large valve. Now for the inlet into the water, make it about 3 1/2 feet long for you set up and cap the end. On the side of the inlet pipe that's in the water cut a rectangular hole equal to the diameter of the pipe in square inches plus 2 inches and rap it with window screen, to filter the water before it gets to the generator. I have more tips if you're interested later.
So Im not an engineer by any means, but Im fairly sure that decreasing the size of your intake pipe will create more pressure. Maybe worth an experiment once your down spout is converted to being entirely 6in. The vacuum remains the same with the down spout, but that pressure pulling the water through the smaller intake pipe will cause the water to come in faster which will turn the turbine faster. Its the same principle of going bigger on the lower end, but you have some room to maximize your energy output on the upper end too.
I would try to remove the 90 or even 45 deg bends as the dramatic bends will impede the flow of water.
Try a gentle curve by gently heating the PC pipe, use similar way as copper pipe but bigger spring or other method.
Also have a look at RUclips "Practical Engineering"
This channel will explain why to make systems correctly will make them more efficient. I believe that by adding a bigger pipe cavitatin might be caused which might damage or ven destroy the turbine?
Thanks for the video.
As promised Seth... reminder again..🌊🌊🌊🌊 four valves 😁
use MPPT instead of PWM charge controller
I will probably get one to test with at some point. They can be a little costly.
@@LandtoHouse Probably you can take your MidNite Classic 200 Charge Controller from your new shed. In the shed you can install the cheap PWM charge controller. That is anyhow meant to work with solar panels (and not with hydro generators). The MidNite Classic has a setting for hydro generators (you have shown this in your electrical set-up video of the new shed). With the MidNite Classic you will get reliable loading of the generator and a reliable reading of the power.
Also: Make sure your battery is discharged. Otherwise the best charge controller can not pull the full power because the voltage will be limited to 14.4V (the charging end voltage of a 12V lead accu).
@@LandtoHouse without it your clamping the 66 volts down to 13/14 and getting the same amps and loosing the other 50volts with of possible energy. You are wasting your time without it. going to 24v will be the same amps but double voltage (assuming the turbine can keep up). You can get 10-20amp mttp 121v controllers now for $30, hell, spend $5 on a 3 amp one and u will triple the output.
You could also get a variable power resistor and connect it directly to the output of the rectifier and put your meter on that. Adjust the resistance up and down to find the peak power output.
@@GriffoNZL Yes, the variable resistor sounds more reliable than the charging of a battery, were the drawn power depends on the charge state of the battery.
Extending your intake line just a bit and sealing it air and water tight may help. Water pressure even a foot below the surface may add to that starting surge you need for force to start the siphon. Look at it like an old loose pull rope starter. You need a kick to get things moving. Your 6 inch pipe might make a nice vacuum tank. Lower pressure in a tank and then open it to the siphon starting pipe. You want to create a starting surge in the down pipe. Your design works pretty well for the steady state after startup. Your starting flow cannot quite overcome. Your sloping output pipe will make better use of the inertia in that first surge of water. Air will also have an " UP" where is can flow or be sucked.
I assume the down pipe will end in a 45 degree elbow and a vertical pipe. Your venturi effect could be better created by having the exit pipe smaller. 3 or 3.5 inches would mean the flow always fills the 4 inch pipe. The surge when a 4 inch flow hits a smaller pipe would suck and air out of the larger pipe. In a more long term setup. would use a plumbing Y with two 4 inch legs. A short length of 4 inch pipe off the main line, adapted down to the much smaller vacuum line would add a local vacuum chamber to the larger main line. Starting a siphon is all about overcoming the poor flow characteristics of the mix of air and liquid. Once the flow is well started, the liquid displaces the air and flows as a simple fluid. Thanks for your patience reading this far. Bonus material follows. ~={:)><
Bonus, Human Interest!! The paragraphs above may be too dense or boring to wade through, at least at first. They are mostly the result of an applied handicap and some seriously spotty education. I filled in my education, with lots of reading. The internet make back filling your education much easier. I find it difficult to express myself simply. This is why I created the jungle of text above. I expect you can express yourself much more easily. The Key here is to Believe you can do it.
I have both Asperger's Syndrome and mild dyslexia. Asperger's is a form of Autism. It makes me intensely verbal, highly focused on logic, and somewhat literal minded. " Aspies" are wired a bit differently than Neuro-typicals, most of you regular Joes and Janes out there. We lose sending and receiving normal forms of nonverbal expression. This means our body language, facial expression, and even eye contact may not be what most people expect. If you understand these "Universal " signal may not be ?Universal at all, you will come out ahead. Regular folks can turn up their concentration as I do naturally. They can lay pieces of a problem or situation out and shuffle them. You can use paper or create a document on you favorite device. Some Aspies are skilled in doing this in their heads. It is generally better not to rely on mental gymnastics alone, My dyslexia show that daily.
Dyslexia scrambles interpretation of words, symbols, and even directions. The old reminder about " Your Other Left", ( Your right), has a very dyslexic feel. d and b can be confused and symbols can be transposed. "Training " can be written as "traing," " your "is wrtten as "you", dropping the R. ( Tip: the Google search window can be a great spelling aid. ) The lesson here is to read your writing twice and again. Do you "break" or "Brake" ?
Do you want a Pair or a Pear? ( As a Plum, I may choose a Pair of Pears or a Georgia Peach. ) < Aspie literalism can build jokes. In kindle books by professional Authors I have found the wrong form of "break" used. I also found Skeet shot with rifles. Unless you are doing trick shooting, like Annie Oakley, Skeet ( simulated bird hunting) is shot with shotguns. Watch out for.50 caliber, ie .005 inches versus 50 caliber, .50 inches or .22 caliber, ( clearly fo very small game, ants perhaps, at .0022 inches. ) Fact checking may be the difference between a Pulitzer Prize and a Booby Prize. You can write if you try. You may do better than the Pros. You may well do better than me.
Mark Twain exposed my very flawed speaking an writing style. Yes, I was busted by a fellow who lived a hundred years before I was born. In "A Connecticut Yankee in King Author's Court " he wrote about a woman who spoke in "Germanic, transatlantic sentences. ... She would emerge with a Verb in her mouth. " ( Yes I have studied German, though it it has mostly rusted away. ) This is a mental jam session, laid down in mostly one take. One several hours long Take. It needs what the Computer programmers call " refactoring." Thing need to be broken down into simpler, clearer forms. ( Those of a certain Age may have nightmare about " Diagramming Sentences . ) This the skill those deadly dull exercises were supposed to give you. I thought of it as Englishes version of " New Math. " Both worked if you got both the concepts and techniques. If you did not get them you were lost in the weeds. ( No they were not the Good Smoking Weeds either! One student showed how roll .. a err cigarette { Family Friendly edit } using shavings from the hand cranked pencil sharpener in the room. This "tabbacco " had seeds. black bits of pencil lead. ( Yes Virginia you can learn useful skills in English class. This skill should be reserved for those of legal age, in certain Western States, or Holland. Sorry1 )
also if you didnt want to increase the intake size move the generator to the bottom of the discharge so you then have the potential energy from the falling water.
Seen whirlpool start in intake. Need make intake longer.
very nice test, looking forward to watching the 4" all the way to the pond one.
Feedback for Langston: the impeller needs stationary guide vanes to prevent the water from swirling past the impeller, that's why the PMA needs a push start.
I think that some of the issue is that there is a lot of air in the long horizontal section of 4" pipe. And then there are a few leaks. I think that is the main issue keeping the unit from spinning up on its own.
A Pelton wheel at the bottom will be much better , the weight of the water will give it pressure needed to spin it
Seth, watts is a measure of power. Watts are a product of volts and amps. Given the same physical conditions and changing only the voltage of the battery from 12v to 24v, you should get a corresponding halving of the amps, resulting in similar watts. In essence the power being produced has not significantly changed, only it's format has changed.
That being said, the entire purpose of MPPT is to find the most efficient RPM therefore voltage, while at the same time still able to produce the highest ampage that the generator/alternator because of it's design can produce. This is the units maximum power point (watts).
Yes. Also Spencer says the meter i have might be inaccurate. I will buy an mppt to try getting better results.
1. More head pressure will create more pressure- either pressing or sucking the water. Take draft tube (suction pipe) down to the creek and 3-4” into the creek (tail race). Need about a foot of water below the tail race for exiting water to not cause back pressure- resistance. Also needed is a Stator just before the runner blades to prevent a vortex of water spinning in the same direction as the runner. The static are blades, typically at 45 degrees in opposite angle of the runners blades. This creates a water flow directed at the pushing direction against the runner blades instead of slipping past the blades on the runner. The runner at the top is fine if you put the 6” draft tube immediately below the runner. The runner blades create turbulence (air adds volume to the water) and turbulence causes friction in the draft tube. I built my own hydro with a 24/7/365 output of 2.75 to 2.95kw. It drops when I get weeds restricting my intake screen. My winter improvement plan.
The best upgrade you can make is to change from PWM to MPPT.
MPPT will make the most of the power being created, PWM will drag down the high voltage being created reducing RPM and charge power .
I am looking at them. The $100 + price tag is the problem haha.
I still think the issue is turbulent water hitting the turbine. I dont know how feasible it would be to run an intake up to the next water dam but I bet if you syphoned the water from there you would see alot more power. the long intake would cause the water to smooth out and the 2 feet of head pressure you gain would help push water past the 90 at the turbine.
I actually have a plan to use a board and some sandbags to make a little dam and lift the water up so that it just spills directly into the pipe. It would eliminate the siphon.
I feel you need more velocity! The bucket needs to go and the pipe needs to be extended down to the creek submerged (the furthest away you can get) so you can still create the vacuum to start the system!
That will be happening in the very next hydro video! One 45 degree bend taking the 4" pipe all the way to the water.
@@LandtoHouse Then jump to 6" the full distance and compare. Maybe you can "borrow' a piece of 6".
I might be wrong but I think you keep working ont the wrong side of the generator. If you increased the depth of the intake you would increase the pressure through the generator (the pressure is to low that's why you have to spin the gen. by hand) thats why at hydro dam's the generators are placed at the bottom of the Dam. In theory your suction idea would work but without the deeper intake to create more pressure you will be limited. just my two cents. Ilove what your doing keep it up!
(Speaking from experience) High priority: Switch to MPPT instead of PWM charge controller. (This will more efficiently convert generator voltage to battery voltage regardless of 12v or 24v battery given your open circuit voltages. ) Seal ALL air leaks. Bring the 4" pipe to several inches below the waterlines on both sides before you bother with 6". Lower priority: Replace ball valve for vacuum with check valve. Vacuum tee doesn't have to be near the bottom. Anywhere below turbine blades is fine. Switch to sweeping pipe bends rather than hard 90's where possible. If flow rate goes high enough, you might need vortex mitigation on the input side. That will be a good problem to have. If I build you a system that automatically makes and breaks the siphon based on high-side water levels, would you try it? Greetings from Raleigh!
If you would a significant inprovement in power, put the turbine to the lower side of the dam.
A siphon based turbine like this does not have to have the turbine at the bottom.
That you have to give it a push to start the turbine shows the lack of torque == power. The unloaded voltage is irrelevant.
My other hydro system does the same thing. Once I start it it will make 300w.
Instead of a 90 degree for the intake fitting I wonder if a 45 with a 2 foot leader would increase water volume.
That exact thing is about to be done in the next hydro video
1, Increase the shaft length for the turbine, move it down close to the bottom of the down pipe.
2, Add an additional length of intake pipe so that it reaches down further into the reservoir. As it stands now, it will start creating vortices around the intake (weir) as the flow volume increases.
3, Double up on the actual turbine screw so that it dose 3+ rotations around the shaft. This will reduce the "slippage".
I would like to see you pull and drop into the same pond. Maybe use the 6inch from the bottom of the turbine into pond. I would have a similar setup as that. Also add a T in the long piece across the dam and put a ball valve on top to rid of air
Lengthening the down pipe increases the weight of water falling hence more force on the turbine blades. So I think installing larger pipe would have the same effect. This next thought is out there. Put the out fall of the turbine into a wye (4") and run two pipes down to another wye and out into your six inch out fall and bucket. Although the this may create restrictions that would reduce the flow. Just out of the box thinking hopefully based on sound assumptions.
From a physics standpoint, this extra height will improve the pressure difference and the flow rate because of that pressure difference. You get a square benefit of the height difference because of the pressure and the extra speed because of the added pressure.
In this particular application, seeing you're using more than 100% of the available flow when it's running, you'll only see the benefit from the added height once, because your water will run out quicker in the upper pond.
Now I'm thinking about it, you might still get some added benefit from reducing the speed of the outgoing water by using a bigger outlet because there's less kinetic energy in the outflow (K.E = 1/2 x m x v^2). That energy may have dissipated somewhere else in the system, or it could be added to the vacuum at the expansion. Not sure how that works from a fluid dynamics perspective.
What's the story on the wall? It's enormous..Presumably concrete with the stone facia. Must have taken months to complete let alone material cost.
I though 4" pipe would pull the water level down too fast.. If so 6" would drain things even quicker.
Ok let me first say happy father's day
Now I've seen a few different systems over the years
They all had the turbines at the bottom just before the discharge pipes K
The smaller systems were 4 to 1 the inlet being 16inches and at the turbines 3 or 4 inches
The length of the feed pipe was divided into sections gradually getting to the 3 or 4 inches at the turbines K
In the applications I have seen the feed pipe ran into a manifold of sorts divided into 6 directions for 6 individual turbines with shutoffs so that you could run 1 to 6 at a time
Some had manual valves others had mechanical ones that were controlled by pressure sensors for output or voltage requirements
Most of them ran 3 to 4 at a time with the others used as backups for more need or maintenance
I hope this helps you in some way brother
Have good one
Thank you for the videos
Just saying
Good info! Thanks Seth!
Thank you for watching!
Can I suggest using a check valve? Thoughts.. duck bill, pinch-flex valve or even a piece of flat hose at the end of the discharge. You should in theory be able to use it at any location on the discharge side of the pipe, deleting the bucket and not having to go all the way down to the lower stream by extending the PVC. I do believe running the PVC down to the lower stream is the best option. However for testing purposes it would just seem easier to run a short length of flat hose.
Mate u need a water wheel / flywheel
Spin a big heavy thing slow to spin the small thing fast and u won't notice the load
I am catching up on this series of videos lol.
Was going to say about a 45 into the pool but you are already planning it.
I don't know if the 6" would help, I can see why it might, but the turbine is 4" and no matter what you do it is the restriction. Also, any energy it uses to accelerate the water out the 6" is wasted energy you are not getting. But I will stand corrected if you test it and it does indeed help.
(I know you would have fixed it) it does sound like your intake is sucking in air.
Isn't the power being generated by the force and speed of the water. It overcomes the friction in the generator try a longer shaft on the impeller/ propeller you'll have to support it and move the impeller further down the pipe
Keep the 4 inch down pipe, 6 inch intake, and make the down pipe longer. Just like exhaust scavenging. Longer the down pipe, the more water weight ad momentum pulling on the motor,but the motor will only spin so fast before an upgrade is needed.
Imo, stop stepping up to 6 inch on the output. Reminds me of Chevy diesel 8 inch exhaust tip fanboys lol.
Maybe change the 90 on the intake to a 45?
Also volts times amps give you the watts. As the battery is getting charged up amps drop there for watts drop
First test battery was at like 12is volts now at 13 so almost fully charged
To bad you didn't live near me I have 16' of six inch pvc pipe that I got from a construction dumpster. I would give it to you.
i think going wider leaves more chance of air getting in and stopping the siphon i think keeping it the same size but having the drain off as long as you can with a t pipe with riser and cap to allow for air to collect rather then traveling back up the pipe and stopping the siphon
The turbine runs on a change in water pressure.
And we know the pressure of water is determined by depth, not volume.
So long as you supply enough water, it changes nothing to use a larger pipe.
That said if your pipe diameter is the limiting restriction on power output, improving diameter would help.
But with a 4 inch pipe, I doubt you are limited by volume throughput
want more watts, need more head pressure, or in this case drop from the turbine. I don't think the 6" is going to help much.
In Canada, we just call them geese.
And they're terrifying.
Haha thats funny. And yes terrifying.
Why is the generator so high up ( at level of water line) if the gen was lower wouldn’t the weight of water above make more wattage ?
I wonder if you could create suction with another siphon of a half inch or 3/4 piece of pipe going over the dam similar to the turbine that would self start when the dam level would rise high enough that you could start the turbine if you have enough suction on the bottom of the turbine to start spinning it by itself. And then you would be able to automatically start the siphon when the water level would rise high enough and then have the turbine self start on its own with enough pipe on the downstream side of it you might be able to create a viable self-starting turbine that once the dam drops it just in just the air and then wait for the one level to rise and starts to self again
Placing 6 "or 100" by 4 "is irrelevant. The whole design is a mistake from the beginning. If we place the turbine at the bottom then a column of water eg 4m will press on it and generate power. Increasing this water column or flow from 4" to 6 "then it will make sense. More water will flow (m3 / s) through the turbine and will generate more power. The placement of this turbine - it is only affected by the suction force - certainly less than the pressure force (water column)
8:45 8:53
Maybe 2 * 45° 4 inch angle?
I am about to use 1 45 that takes a 4" pipe all the way down. Might also do a 45 on the intake.
Put the turbine at the bottom of your retaining wall. You have essentially zero head pressure the way it’s setup right now. The siphon isn’t as effective force as the weight of the water from above
Putting 6" after the 4" is like taking your clothing off after you get out of the shower.
You need to pull the voltage down to 1/2 of the open circuit voltage. With a PWM charge controller you'd need ~33V of battery to get the peak power out of the 66V PMA. An MPPT controller is a buck converter and will do this for you.
watch out for the cobra chickens... they brook no insolence.
They are creepy!
Seth, I think you are going to need a MPPT charge Controller to RAISE the turbine voltage. right now you are pulling it down to 12volts. this is slowing it down too much. The Tristar MPPT has a more where you can SET the voltage. Just a thought.
Yes that is my next purchase. I am browsing them to find a good one on a budget.
@@LandtoHouse unfortunately you can’t just use any MPPT charge controller for Hydro. You need a very specific unit that allows you to set the voltage that the Hydro is being clamp to so that you can manually tune the turbine voltage and RPM. Chris harbour who has a RUclips channel used the tri-star MPPT with full success. It took some tuning but I will link the video where he figured it out.ruclips.net/video/pJ1I1WuyA50/видео.html
Increasing the pipe from 4" to 6" only creates a vacuum break at that point.
I think the company needs to find someone who has a clue about microhyro electic systems
Great series. Thanks for sharing. Curious why you didn’t put the siphon at the top of the system instead of at the bottom? Also, agree with running 6” all the way from generator to creek.
wouldnt you get more power if the turbine was located at the bottom of the 8 foot drop?
i wounder if a buck converter would work better then the pwm controller
Can I ask, is it the water going through the turbine that generates the electricity, does the drop matter?
i think 12v is out of the effiecny range of the turbine and why it spins so slow i think if you moved to maybe 24v or higher it might perform better
MPPT regulator need! :)
Yes I need to buy one to test.
@@LandtoHouse Or take the one from your new shed. There you can install the PWM Charge Controller. That is anyhow made only for solar input.
just curious, the bucket would seem to slow the flow so much it would actually back up al the way to the top and potentially slow the flow. I watched your other video where you went and toured another one of these and he just put an elbow at the bottom and dropped it under the creek. Is that not an option for you?
Good observation! I have another video after this where I move the turbine to another pool and don't have to use the bucket.
What is the approximate efficiency of the water turbine ?
The bigger the height drop the more power generated?
Yes. The higher the drop the stronger the water pulls.
Up to a maximum of 30’ with a head-end generator. After that, cavitation, due to pressure differential, sets in and whole setup fails.
i wonder if you doubled the smaller pipe and have them under water so air cant be drawn in if it would allow for more flow
Canada Geese, not Canadian.
How do you know the geese are Canadian? Were they honking in French? Not all Canada geese are from Canada
These were from Toronto. We had some maple syrup and talked hockey. Or at least I think it was hockey. Hard to make out the French honks.
Why siphon and bucket?
Hi, i do have a diy micro hydro at home but im not good in computation if hm watts is the output, but it can light up 3 pcs 220 v bulb...can i ask if where i can buy a watt meter? I wanna try to share it you. We only use an old motorcycle stator and a turgo wheel
it is not good how it will not start spinning by it self that means you could not even use a bell siphon to start it going when ever the water level reaches the right hight to need the run off
any stator in that turbine ?
Try mppt sir
I will try one soon. I need to find one that is affordable. (My midnight classic was $600)
best View man
This small pond is really pretty.
Gracias Mr. Please help me to bye the head of the generator. gime me the characteristic and the place to get it.
This was a test for Langston's Alternative Power. I dont think this size unit is for sale at the moment.
do like to try our new hedge trimmer?
Am I pemitted to ask why you didn’t get a 45 degree elbow in the interim?
I have purchased a 45ﾟ angle for the intake. I should be installing that soon.
@@LandtoHouse you also need to go deeper with your intake, I saw a little whirlpool when you said you thought you were hearing air in the pipe
Hi Seth, just a note to let you know that the link to the Green Acre Homestead channel is wrong, you've got www.youtube.com in the URL twice. :)
That's so odd. It shows right for me and works. ???
@@LandtoHouse It's the link the description that has the problem, the link in your pinned comment is fine. :)
Why not go 6 inch for the entire drop length?
That's what Spencer said. I will just have to buy a 6" pipe. This one I had laying around.
Need help on get a turbine can handle flow 100lit/sec drop 50m.. and how much max kw I
Can get.. thanks
Langston Alternative Power has that kind of information. Link in description.
hey buddy as much as i love watching these videos of yours there fun you are wasting your time with this little electric bike stator . what you need to do is make yourself a three phase permeant magnet stator . you will never get enough energy from that little stator motor . you would increase your power with a larger stator . right now its kinda like trying to run a head light with a bicycle generator . you would even do better using a servo motor you would want something in the low rpm high output range . i would just go with a three phase generator . look them up in wind generators the concept is the same just different concept of drive system . there ac current so no drop off in voltage or very little . this is just to small to do what you want . be great maybe for a wind generator just to trickle charge something . but you will get no real power from this set up . you need a bigger stator . but i will keep watching just for sheets and giggles .
Why isnt it starting on its own?
My high head system does the same thing. Once I touch it to start it will make 300 W.
9:41
You forgot the 45° :-()
If you number your videos from the first video it would be easier to know which one to watch first.
You mean the hydro videos? There is actually a playlist with all in order of posting.
What is the minimum flow rate for this to function?
I have not tested flow rate. Actually not sure how I would do that. At least 100 gpm.
the generator needs to be at the very bottom at the end of all the water pipes
Please don't make another video without the 45 on the vacuum pipe or I will go nuts.
Please don't go nuts! Haha
The kids and I took a trip to town yesterday and got a 45 for the intake.
The proper name is Canada Geese, not Canadian Geese. You could have Canadian Canada Geese I guess, but there's no good way for you to tell their nation origin. It's more likely that these Canada Geese are not Canadian.
With the camera off we were talking a-boot Minnesota ay. Canada geese from Minnesota. 😆
Great video but get to the point. I don't have 16 minutes. Just stick to the facts
FFS DUDE!!! GET YOURSELF A MPPT CHARGE CONTROLLER!!!! THIS IS PAINFUL TO WATCH AND A WASTE OF TIME!