Troubleshooting Golf MK2 Rough Running
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- UPDATE: I believe the rough running was largely down to the MAF sensor wiring which is a bit dodgy on my car, giving it a wiggle sorts it out normally, ideally I'd replace the plug and wires to it but for the most part the car is fine, it just runs rough very occasionally.
Trying to work out why my Golf MK2 8v GTi is running badly when cold. Initial start here is ok but it goes rough, stalls and doesn't want to start.
Unplugging various sensors to see if it changes the way the car runs, all of them seem to cause it to run worse / stall.
Still need to work out just what is causing it to run so poorly as this really isn't good. 
Авто/Мото
Please do more videos like this so helpfull for someone who wants a mk2 for there first car , much appreciated !!!
Well at the moment I'm not sure what is wrong with it still, but I'll try to remember to make videos as I diagnose further / fix it.
Shame he doesn't talk during the video to give us newbies a description of wtf he is doing lol
Traduction this please!!
En la admisión, abre el tornillo , la Junta torica de admisión , de que abras ese tornillo te ahorrarán mucho, que veo que lo tienes apretado y se te apaga de que te deja de funcionar la válvula de ralentí
I have a GTI mk3 1992, but the engine its identical, i become Crazy First of Discovery the bad lambda sensor! I Disconnecting the lambda sensor, the engine go well! Excuse me for my bad english
My engine got that weird problem where it starts to go around but it loses power half way trough .dont now what causes that problem maybe its because of age ? the car is 27 years old Golf 2 whit a automatic gear box
I need help my car is cranking like your at 1:06 and then lost that hope and keep cranks normally i can't start him. What can be the problem? Thank you.
He turns on a bit like 100 rpm's for a second and shut off
@@mihe4627 Is your car also the 1.8 digifant GTI? If so then the issue I was having came down to the MAF (unplugged it at about 1:40 ) plug wiring being bad. If I gave the wires a wiggle when plugged in it would then run fine. My car was massively over fuelling when the wires weren't making proper contact. If moving the wiring at the plug doesn't help it might be the MAF itself which would need replacing (second hand should be fine) but that will then require a bit of tuning of the MAF to get it running properly on your car.
Other things to check would be that you have a good strong battery and make sure that your spark plugs are firing.
Hello, did you find what the problem was, I have the same problem, if you answer me, I will be very grateful!
Sorry for late response. In my case it turned out that the wiring for the air flow meter was slightly faulty, causing the ECU to overfuel
My mk2 digifant revs high and low then eventually dies, 50 percent of the time when I come to a junction it does this, changed the ICV, played with the MAF and changed out the blue temp sensor twice, once with a repro second time with original part. Its also running rich. Can anyone help?
Have a look for vacuum leaks, they can mess with the idle. The ICVs can be very temperamental and second hand ones don't always work. What did you do with the MAF? Tweaking the air fuel ratio will screw up performance. Have a check over this: www.vwvortex.com/threads/digifant-idle-problems-revised.731083/
@@FinalDecap Thanks for that link!! Its exactly what i've been looking for. I sprayed carb cleaner over the hoses to check for leaks but it didn't do anything (maybe I did it wrong). I'm just going to replace all the hoses to have piece of mind. Yep, I backed off the lock screw on the MAF and moved the positioner to try to get it to rev better, this hasn't really helped, possibly a little but certainly no cure). The performance is no where near what it should be. Being a syncro country its very heavy but still, struggled to keep up with traffic unless I give it gas, then I get rich running smoke. The ICV was new and not a cheap replacement part. I've thrown a lot of money into this as It's quite an interesting and practical car that I have no intension of selling on. Another note also replaced the Cat (aftermarket) and sensor original.
@@CherylCold if you've played with the mixture screws that'll cause quite a few issues. The main issue my engine had was the MAF telling the ECU to over fuel. I'll dig out another link around Digifant tuning (I ended up with mine running very well, provided the dodgy wiring on the MAF held on)
@@CherylCold www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=33253.0
This is a good guide on how to tune the digifant engine. I'd also say it's worth checking the condition of the track the MAF thing runs on, if it's bad it'll cause it to throw confusion to the ECU...you can see the tracks in a pic on this link...
www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-tune-8v-gti-mk2.124243/
@@FinalDecap Brilliant, thanks for your research on this. Theres not many people left who have any interest in these sort of issues anymore. Old tech.
Mine 8valve Kjet idle too low, plus when I remove the blue Coolant Temp plug it makes no difference in idling
Kjet and digifant are different, you'll need to look into kjet information
Did you fix it? What was the problem
Luckily for me it was all down to the air flow sensor wiring. The plug had some wires that weren't sending a proper signal. Moving them about a bit resolved the problem. It'd then stay fine for a few months and mess up again, another moving of wires would resolve.
Basically though, if the wiring and plugs are all fine, it's an airflow meter issue.
@@FinalDecap did the car smoke at all?
@@darroonxxxsxd40 When it was overfuelling, yes. It would be very sooty due to far too much fuel going into the engine. Never had blue or white smoke though, only ever the grey/black smoke from running rich.
My car not starting
Did you manage to sort it out?
Yes, but mine was a digifant engine, not a kjet
@@FinalDecap cool
Wait a minute.... I think I have my coolant temp sensor and temp sensor switched around the wrong way LOL
It shouldn't matter which order they are fitted to the sensor block really. Blue is for the ECU and black is for the dash gauge, that's the important thing!
Oh okay, cause mine has been running rough so I switched the sensors around back and forth till I got the best result, wasn't sure if it mattered what's where
I've just updated my caption. I think the rough running on mine is down to the MAF wiring/plug, I can wiggle the wiring and it'll run badly (to the point where it chucks clouds of soot out the back as if I'm rolling coal) or it'll run fine.
If you have a multimeter you can check the temp sensors are working properly by getting resistance readings when cold and when hot. I'll try and dig out the 'safe' range of readings as I can't remember off the top of my head.
If you've changed the MAF though that can also cause poor running on a PB along with making it run super rich or lean.
I haven't done anything with the MAF. My problem is only at idle, runs perfect driving. But I've been adjusting the idle speed with the screw on the airbox and on the valve at the back of the engine and trying to find the right combo
www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=14915
The diagram isn't exactly clear but essentially you want the blue one to change readings between being cold and being hot. There are quite a few other useful bits of info in that thread about PB engines not running right.
1.8 P.F & 1.8 P.B ???
Pb is better
@@eltattooma Ok🤝
Bit late to reply and I'm sure it doesn't matter but the engine is/was a PB
@@FinalDecap 🤝🤝🤝
Fuel injection 1.4 not starting wiring problems
Dont get me wrong but the things that you are doing are useless, you should do a proper diagnoatic work, measure values, test the wiring, put everything in the spec.
By doing what you are doing only with luck you fix anything.
This is not a critic but an advice.
I do have worked with digifant and I also have One and most of the Times is not One thing wrong but lots of tiny things.
If I do the same things that you are doing to a perfect condition car, the car Will have the same reactions.
This is an old video for starters. I did actually measure the sensors that have known values and were all in spec. As has been said in prior comment responses, the car had bad wiring on the air flow meter plug causing it to over fuel when not connected properly.
@@FinalDecap if you have a problem in that plug or in the afm, actually the opposite Will happen, because the afm makes the fuel Pump Run, also more resistance you have on the sensor less fuel injects.
Look for digifant on Google and check the online fórums, best way to go.
I do have lots of info on that also.
@Mario_Marques sometimes a little jiggle is all you need to get you running better again. Anyway for people who are not tech savvy are happy to see that a motor doesn't have to be all diagnostics and such
@@jovanpantelich you should avoid that, you should inspect the contacts and you can giggle stuff to test but not that way, the correct way is to disconnect the battery remove the conector on the ecu and test it there, is well documented on vw workshop manuals for this cars that disconnecting some stuff when running Will burn the ecu, same goes for grounding wires. This Cars are becoming expensive and parts are becoming rare, destroying them is not the way to go, I restore this Cars for some customers and parts are becoming rare and expensive, same goes for the Cars, a good one can achieve a high value so its not a good idea to risk of damaging it.
spray sensor
What is spray sensor and where it is located.
Thanks