The video about how to solder this collet to a shank would be awesome. It is much more difficult than it looks at first sight. I had to make several collets because when I was going to solder it was a mess, it was always crooked and out of simmetry... Thanks a lot for the video, it was perfect as always. I appreciate very much your work!
Common ways to attach a shank are "tap up" shanks (cut a wedding ring open, melt the ends back and hammer up so they are like a knife edge - thin in one direction but almost as wide as the collet vertically) you can groove the collet and it should hold in place. A split shank you can groove the under-bezel and it should key together. Twist shank is tricky where the shank swirls around the stone. The key is just looking from every angle and not soldering until you are happy it's not drunk.
When I did these I was allowed to use a needle file for the bottom but was expected to do the claws using only fretsaw...using the fretsaw like a file to end up with it looking polished. Also I was made "bend-overs!" To hold it with... full round pliers with a 90 degree bend and a bit stubby which help you hold the thing without getting in the way of what you are doing.
If u are gettin "rid" of your collet block, i would give it a good home for you. If youd eben like to sell maybe.. Im 3 years into silversmithing and like u iv adapted alot of tools myself, anything that keeps the cost down really helps! Lol especially since all this covid crap sales have been terrible, but we all in the same boat.. Really enjoying your vids since finding your channel recently. Always u explain things super well so its very helpful, thank you
Love the videos! Lend me your experience as a beginner I'd be really interested in how you'd spend your money setting up from scratch on tools and materials, where you think that quality really matters etc could even make for a really helpful video
Everyone says spend your money on a rolling mill. I totally agree, but i got a cheap amazon one (the green one). When i got it, it took it completely apart and filed the gears smooth, greased everything, and surfaced the rollers. A lot better now, but still kind of weak for doing everything. I have rolled out loads of wire, D section and square, with it. I wish i had a better one, but it gets me by for now.
Great video! I sometimes melt in a little silver with the hard solder to make an even harder solder alloy, which makes the joint almost like a welding. A bit painful to solder but you tend to relax more with the upcoming ones. I would very much like some tips on how to polish sharp edges without blunting them.. could you perhaps help me with that? Again great video!
so, I am a blacksmith who began restoring old swords. That caused me to have to learn a lot of jewelry techniques to make sword fittings. Why do you not just hammer it over an opening or a half-round swage to get the rainbow? You would have to dress the edges with the hammer after, but it could be faster than the pliers. Not sure. You have done this professionally, so I assume there is something (or several things) I don't get. Thoughts?
Cool Ive got 2 japanese swords here. That would be great if possible to hammer it but the strip is too thin it would just twist and bend the wrong way every hit of the hammer
Great vids...always picking up some clever approaches and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. One trick I thought Id share about getting the top of the collet perfect and perpendicular to the vertical axis is to file the top while the collet is still in the block. I file right down to the block if the collet is formed right to the top of the hole which is usually my aim. Once this is done you can offset the height of the collet from the top with calipers or dividers and viola!.....everything is true. Cheers Matt Dwyer FIO Jewellery (Australia)
@@DiamondMounter thanks for your reply mate. It's great to share info and I love your humble and honest approach to delivering content. I've been a maker for 20 years and also a teacher for near as long. I've learnt alot simply by having to articulate what I am doing during demonstrations. Keep the vid coming...they are great and don't speed them up. The details are important. I watch a fair bit online however some approaches are frightening. Its a breath of fresh air to warch a maker like yourself. I'll send you a link to an Australian maker who gives great demos and is similar to you in many ways. Is it possible to email you? On a separate note, I'd be very interested to know what camera you are using aswell.
Here is the link to the Australian jewellers I mentioned in my previous comment. Think you'll appreciate his videos. Keep up the videos. Love them. M ruclips.net/channel/UC2uwlXFZF8hrg2VEkvXkMgQ
As this is an instructional video, you really should mention health and safety which is an absolute priority at all times no matter what. That way you will come across more processionally . Also if you have been doing this bench work for twenty years as you say, you would look more mature and your hands would also be well worked as a jeweller. Even when using finger protectors. Lastly I suggest you check out A drew Berry at the Bench, on you tube as he is superb with thirty years experience as a bench worker jeweller goldsmith teaching all levels from beginner to advanced. You also talk a lot more than actually demonstrate from start to finish. Don't tell but show instead for credibility as part of your 20 years of lengthy experience ?
you may not need vision correction glasses, but you SHOULD absolutely be wearing eye protection glasses. I cringe every time you start using the grinding drills, wheels, sanding discs or whatever without putting on eye protection!!! I know, you may not have ever had an issue... YET.. but from my angle it seems just a matter of time before you something ends up in your eye
As someone who wears "vision correction" glasses, I would add that even if you have prescription glasses that doesn't mean that you don't also need safety glasses or at least side covers stuff gets around regular lenses really easily. A half face respirator with p100 cartridges is also a good idea when you are grinding and polishing(not always strictly necessary but definitely better safe than sorry), you only have one set of lungs and losing lung function seems a lot worse than losing your eye function.
Actually you teach wrong! You said it is important to do things absolutely correctly from the beginning. But here you are saying its OK to not be perfect but second hand at the beginning . Wrong teaching. Accuracy is vital in jewellery construction S opposed to artful designing on paper. Your teaching is slap dash and very dangerous . No mention of health and safety at all.
Video are great! Enjoy watch them, now I have to start applying watch your sharing /teaching.
“DOING IS LEARNING JUST LISTENING 👂 IS NOT LEARNING “ 👍👍👍👍
The video about how to solder this collet to a shank would be awesome. It is much more difficult than it looks at first sight. I had to make several collets because when I was going to solder it was a mess, it was always crooked and out of simmetry... Thanks a lot for the video, it was perfect as always. I appreciate very much your work!
Buy some “Ring Clamping Tweezers” they keep your collet level whilst holding the shank.
Common ways to attach a shank are "tap up" shanks (cut a wedding ring open, melt the ends back and hammer up so they are like a knife edge - thin in one direction but almost as wide as the collet vertically) you can groove the collet and it should hold in place.
A split shank you can groove the under-bezel and it should key together.
Twist shank is tricky where the shank swirls around the stone.
The key is just looking from every angle and not soldering until you are happy it's not drunk.
Thanks for sharing your experience
Can you share in a video how you actually set a stone in a setting like that? Thanks 😊
When I did these I was allowed to use a needle file for the bottom but was expected to do the claws using only fretsaw...using the fretsaw like a file to end up with it looking polished.
Also I was made "bend-overs!" To hold it with... full round pliers with a 90 degree bend and a bit stubby which help you hold the thing without getting in the way of what you are doing.
If u are gettin "rid" of your collet block, i would give it a good home for you. If youd eben like to sell maybe.. Im 3 years into silversmithing and like u iv adapted alot of tools myself, anything that keeps the cost down really helps! Lol especially since all this covid crap sales have been terrible, but we all in the same boat.. Really enjoying your vids since finding your channel recently. Always u explain things super well so its very helpful, thank you
Love the videos! Lend me your experience as a beginner I'd be really interested in how you'd spend your money setting up from scratch on tools and materials, where you think that quality really matters etc could even make for a really helpful video
Good idea! I can try to make a video on the basic set of tools people should get
Everyone says spend your money on a rolling mill. I totally agree, but i got a cheap amazon one (the green one).
When i got it, it took it completely apart and filed the gears smooth, greased everything, and surfaced the rollers. A lot better now, but still kind of weak for doing everything. I have rolled out loads of wire, D section and square, with it.
I wish i had a better one, but it gets me by for now.
Do you have a video for making a square setting with square prongs?
Can you please make a video on how to make the big pliers pleaseeeeee
Gracias por compartir. La calidad de información y aprendizaje es gigantesca.
Great video!
I sometimes melt in a little silver with the hard solder to make an even harder solder alloy, which makes the joint almost like a welding. A bit painful to solder but you tend to relax more with the upcoming ones.
I would very much like some tips on how to polish sharp edges without blunting them.. could you perhaps help me with that?
Again great video!
At what point do you just try welding? Seems like a skilled welder with a decent TIG machine could get really good results.
I love your videos bro
hi, thank you :)
so, I am a blacksmith who began restoring old swords. That caused me to have to learn a lot of jewelry techniques to make sword fittings. Why do you not just hammer it over an opening or a half-round swage to get the rainbow? You would have to dress the edges with the hammer after, but it could be faster than the pliers. Not sure. You have done this professionally, so I assume there is something (or several things) I don't get. Thoughts?
Cool Ive got 2 japanese swords here. That would be great if possible to hammer it but the strip is too thin it would just twist and bend the wrong way every hit of the hammer
@@DiamondMounter got it. thank you for explaining. video. I didn't really perceive how thin it was.
Awesome video man, thank you for your good work.
What angle bezel blocks do you prefer?
Thank you for your videos
Grato pela grande aula
I use a Philips bit for a drill lol
Great vids...always picking up some clever approaches and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. One trick I thought Id share about getting the top of the collet perfect and perpendicular to the vertical axis is to file the top while the collet is still in the block. I file right down to the block if the collet is formed right to the top of the hole which is usually my aim. Once this is done you can offset the height of the collet from the top with calipers or dividers and viola!.....everything is true. Cheers Matt Dwyer FIO Jewellery (Australia)
Thats a good idea I will try it!
@@DiamondMounter thanks for your reply mate. It's great to share info and I love your humble and honest approach to delivering content. I've been a maker for 20 years and also a teacher for near as long. I've learnt alot simply by having to articulate what I am doing during demonstrations. Keep the vid coming...they are great and don't speed them up. The details are important. I watch a fair bit online however some approaches are frightening. Its a breath of fresh air to warch a maker like yourself. I'll send you a link to an Australian maker who gives great demos and is similar to you in many ways. Is it possible to email you? On a separate note, I'd be very interested to know what camera you are using aswell.
Here is the link to the Australian jewellers I mentioned in my previous comment. Think you'll appreciate his videos. Keep up the videos. Love them. M ruclips.net/channel/UC2uwlXFZF8hrg2VEkvXkMgQ
All videos are very nice, but can you please keep it little shorter, thanks
Wander
Soooo, McDonald's golden arches, but upside down...?
Shaquille Anneal? Hahahahaha.
For
As this is an instructional video, you really should mention health and safety which is an absolute priority at all times no matter what. That way you will come across more processionally . Also if you have been doing this bench work for twenty years as you say, you would look more mature and your hands would also be well worked as a jeweller. Even when using finger protectors. Lastly I suggest you check out A drew Berry at the Bench, on you tube as he is superb with thirty years experience as a bench worker jeweller goldsmith teaching all levels from beginner to advanced. You also talk a lot more than actually demonstrate from start to finish. Don't tell but show instead for credibility as part of your 20 years of lengthy experience ?
you may not need vision correction glasses, but you SHOULD absolutely be wearing eye protection glasses. I cringe every time you start using the grinding drills, wheels, sanding discs or whatever without putting on eye protection!!! I know, you may not have ever had an issue... YET.. but from my angle it seems just a matter of time before you something ends up in your eye
As someone who wears "vision correction" glasses, I would add that even if you have prescription glasses that doesn't mean that you don't also need safety glasses or at least side covers stuff gets around regular lenses really easily. A half face respirator with p100 cartridges is also a good idea when you are grinding and polishing(not always strictly necessary but definitely better safe than sorry), you only have one set of lungs and losing lung function seems a lot worse than losing your eye function.
Actually you teach wrong! You said it is important to do things absolutely correctly from the beginning. But here you are saying its OK to not be perfect but second hand at the beginning . Wrong teaching. Accuracy is vital in jewellery construction S opposed to artful designing on paper. Your teaching is slap dash and very dangerous . No mention of health and safety at all.