Success achieved with following of everything shown in video. The day before repair, I hosed out the cavity where stripped steering gear rod was, and also gave all the screws I needed to work with a quick shot of PB Blaster. Great to use and now own a slap hammer. Heat was definitely needed on the screw, and replaced with bolt of same 3/4" length.
I think this just confirmed the fact that I will have the local guy fix this for me. I don't have all of the tools, floor jacks, work table, etc, and by the time I purchased all, it would be cheaper to have the local shop do the work. I may however buy the parts for them as they tend to mark them up as well. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the instruction help. I just replaced the steering shaft with worm out worm gear on my 11 yr old troy bilt. I found that my battery impact driver fit under there without even taking the deck out and no heat needed. Got it done and greased the axle and wheels good and a bit on the shaft, aired up the front tires to 12+ lbs. I was shocked at how easy my steering is now, like having power. I'll be sure to grease it every yr from now on.
Safety first! In this environment we have 3 fire extinguishers within a very small area and are constantly alert to the possibility of a fire (even when we are not using MAP gas close to a fuel line) For those that do not feel safe doing it this way, the tank can be removed and gotten completely out of the way. Another good way to ensure this does not happen is to drain the fuel. Thanks for watching!
Great vid. Helped me out tremendously. I found it much easier to simply drill out the screw at the bottom instead of doing all the work of getting to screw off. Besides you are replacing the threaded shaft anyway. I replaced the screw with a hex bolt (as it should be). Whoever designed this thing graduated with a c- from some Caribbean U. Completely asinine design in so many ways.
I couldn't believe they used a phillips screw for the bottom of the shaft. I looked at the diagram in owner's manual and noticed the the half inch bolt was on the bottom of the shaft and the philips screw was used for the top of the shaft to secure the steering wheel. I flipped them and both fit. Something got reversed in the assembly some how?
The design doesn't make sense to me. The hex bushing is through the stamped metal, and the washer rests against it which DOESNT move but the screw is tightened against the washer on the bottom. So the screw wants to move with the shaft when you turn the wheel. So it obviously loosens until it's not tight then turns, but then it eventually unthreads and gets sloppy. It needs a thrust bearing on the bottom between the washer and hex bushing for the screw to stay tight, but still turn. Any thoughts?
Great post, make it easier on yourself by taking a air chisel with a short piece of pipe and a old chisel and shorten it then weld the two together then slide over the hammer screw driver.
This video has been incredibly helpful to fix my 10 plus year old T-1400. Of course I wish I had the tools and equipment that you have! Regardless, job done!
Yes! Some of these style steering columns have a bushing for the first 1/4" to 3/8" before threads start so it is not possible. If you have this exact one or your bolt is threaded all the way up to the top you can use a regular hex bolt. Bolt size of 5/16-18 x 3/4" works perfect and you will actually be able to get it out easily
I'm having an issue with mine for some reason, I replaced the shaft and hex bushing and got a new washer and screw. For some reason there's still too big a gap between the stamped metal and the washer so it can move up and down a bit, maybe that's normal, but Everytime it's tight and I turn to the left, it loosens the screw back up and eventually it's back to full sloppy. Any ideas?
@@IndRepair yeah who knows haha, I threw a thrust bearing/washer between the washer and the hex bushing and that fixed my loosening problem when I turn the wheel. I feel they should've done this from the factory as it makes total sense.
It’s best to pressure wash it good before starting the job , then if you have to heat it your pretty safe but a fire extinguisher should be setting and ready
Seems like there hasn't been any lubrication on anything under there? No wonder why things wear out! My old Dynamark rider had the same steering gears in them when I got rid of it after almost 30 years of service. That's mainly because I learned years ago if you take care of a piece of equipment, it will take care of you!
Yeah, it has to be removed anyway so it definitely is safer that way. I was unaware originally that the whole assembly had to come out of it, otherwise I would have done it this way. Just when you think you know a design they throw in a curveball!
Safety First! Around here we have 3 fire extinguishers within feet, are trained and are aware that fire is a possibility even when we are not working with a MAP torch in the vicinity of fuel. Be safe, if you are not familiar with heating things and fire prevention techniques the fuel tank can definitely be removed from the area first to create a better environment that allows for more user error. Thanks for watching!
Now that you figured out the secret I must forever ban you. Haha, just kidding, but yeah this was completely a different style than I was thinking it was and apparently it showed. Either way hope it helped someone, somewhere. Thanks for watching!
What is a slap hammer?? 😂 That's a new one. The rest of the world knows that as an impact driver. And who uses non shrink wrapped wire connectors on something that gets wet? I wished I hadn't watched this video.
Success achieved with following of everything shown in video. The day before repair, I hosed out the cavity where stripped steering gear rod was, and also gave all the screws I needed to work with a quick shot of PB Blaster. Great to use and now own a slap hammer. Heat was definitely needed on the screw, and replaced with bolt of same 3/4" length.
Great job! Thanks for watching!
I think this just confirmed the fact that I will have the local guy fix this for me. I don't have all of the tools, floor jacks, work table, etc, and by the time I purchased all, it would be cheaper to have the local shop do the work. I may however buy the parts for them as they tend to mark them up as well. Thanks for the video.
It definitely is not one of the easier ones to replace! Thanks for watching!
This is not for the average person to do. Call a professional
Thanks for the instruction help. I just replaced the steering shaft with worm out worm gear on my 11 yr old troy bilt. I found that my battery impact driver fit under there without even taking the deck out and no heat needed.
Got it done and greased the axle and wheels good and a bit on the shaft, aired up the front tires to 12+ lbs. I was shocked at how easy my steering is now, like having power. I'll be sure to grease it every yr from now on.
Awesome! It sure does make a difference!
Safety first! In this environment we have 3 fire extinguishers within a very small area and are constantly alert to the possibility of a fire (even when we are not using MAP gas close to a fuel line) For those that do not feel safe doing it this way, the tank can be removed and gotten completely out of the way. Another good way to ensure this does not happen is to drain the fuel. Thanks for watching!
Great vid. Helped me out tremendously. I found it much easier to simply drill out the screw at the bottom instead of doing all the work of getting to screw off. Besides you are replacing the threaded shaft anyway. I replaced the screw with a hex bolt (as it should be). Whoever designed this thing graduated with a c- from some Caribbean U. Completely asinine design in so many ways.
Nice!
That's called an impact screwdriver, and it really makes sense to know which way you want to go!
Ha! I know that is right!
I couldn't believe they used a phillips screw for the bottom of the shaft. I looked at the diagram in owner's manual and noticed the the half inch bolt was on the bottom of the shaft and the philips screw was used for the top of the shaft to secure the steering wheel. I flipped them and both fit. Something got reversed in the assembly some how?
It is a strange design but it is how they were made. Thanks for watching!
When you put the screw back in the bottom use blue medium locktite not red or it will never come out again.
I used red and it came out 45 min later
The design doesn't make sense to me. The hex bushing is through the stamped metal, and the washer rests against it which DOESNT move but the screw is tightened against the washer on the bottom. So the screw wants to move with the shaft when you turn the wheel. So it obviously loosens until it's not tight then turns, but then it eventually unthreads and gets sloppy. It needs a thrust bearing on the bottom between the washer and hex bushing for the screw to stay tight, but still turn. Any thoughts?
Great post, make it easier on yourself by taking a air chisel with a short piece of pipe and a old chisel and shorten it then weld the two together then slide over the hammer screw driver.
Great idea!
The video help tremendously, thank you sir.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
This video has been incredibly helpful to fix my 10 plus year old T-1400. Of course I wish I had the tools and equipment that you have! Regardless, job done!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Great video. I used my dewalt battery powered impact driver with a #3 Philips bit and the screw came right out.
That's great!! Most times they won't come out that way but on occasion they will. Thanks for watching!
Mee too but heat and impact and #3 philips. Love torch.
Whoever decided to put Phillips head bolt in that position should be beaten severely. Just WTF were they thinking???
Yeah and loctite it in there
I used a grinder to remove the screw in the bottom of the shaft, then minor disassembly of the tank mount and dash panel to pull the shaft out
Yeah that works! Thanks for watching!
I used my multi-tool. So satisfying to get that out. It left a flattened bolt so I had to pry the spacer off but it just crumbled as I pried it off.
@Scott-tv6vc hit it with some wd 40
Great video Thank you! now I can Fix my T1600 riding mower.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Is it feasible to replace that phillips bolts with a hex head?
Yes! Some of these style steering columns have a bushing for the first 1/4" to 3/8" before threads start so it is not possible. If you have this exact one or your bolt is threaded all the way up to the top you can use a regular hex bolt. Bolt size of 5/16-18 x 3/4" works perfect and you will actually be able to get it out easily
Great job getting that #3 phillips out. Why would they use that? Well done.
Thanks! More difficulty more money!
GREAT GREAT VIDEO!!!!! thank you!!! I just found you on RUclips!!!!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!!
This screw is impossible to get off any advice
Just the slap impact hammer and heat best ways to get it but yeah difficult
@@IndRepairI got it I use all my strength to get that sucker out love the vid man helps a lot with the hammer
@@cariooxx Awesome job! Glad I was able to help
Where did you get that slap hammer and where do I buy one like it?
I am not sure where we got the one in the shop. You can find one similar at amzn.to/41b9qx0
Thanks for watching!
I'm having an issue with mine for some reason, I replaced the shaft and hex bushing and got a new washer and screw. For some reason there's still too big a gap between the stamped metal and the washer so it can move up and down a bit, maybe that's normal, but Everytime it's tight and I turn to the left, it loosens the screw back up and eventually it's back to full sloppy. Any ideas?
It should definitely not do this, where the hex sits into the metal there is not any play is there?
@@IndRepair no there's no play side to side, just up and down so if you lift up on the steering wheel it pulls the hex out of the slot a bit.
@@SamsDIY Definitely something not right somewhere...hmm
@@IndRepair yeah who knows haha, I threw a thrust bearing/washer between the washer and the hex bushing and that fixed my loosening problem when I turn the wheel. I feel they should've done this from the factory as it makes total sense.
For sure
It’s best to pressure wash it good before starting the job , then if you have to heat it your pretty safe but a fire extinguisher should be setting and ready
Definitely a good thing to pressure wash first! Have started more than 1 fire due to oil/grass combo under a mower
Seems like there hasn't been any lubrication on anything under there? No wonder why things wear out! My old Dynamark rider had the same steering gears in them when I got rid of it after almost 30 years of service. That's mainly because I learned years ago if you take care of a piece of equipment, it will take care of you!
I agree. Maintenance will make it last for a decade plus
I’m working on the same thing now. I’m seriously irate that someone would use a god damn screw in that shaft. Talk about horrible engineering.
If I had a nickel for every time I've had that thought... It is definitely a bad design, did you have to use heat? Thanks for watching!
Sure would be a lot easier with a hex head bolt for the shaft instead of a Phillips head
It were would be! Thanks for watching!
Today's years old when I learned I have a slap hammer in my toolbox after doing it the hard way with vice grips and no heat.
Definitely difficult there!
Again great post, the t1200 is basically the same. Darn this old farts back can't handle the crawling like before.
It's pretty far down there!
great vid! thank you!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Another way to get that screw released is locking pliers
Really hard to get vicw grip pliers to break loose loctite but if it works it works!
good stuff !!!!
Thank you!
I just remove gas tank and it’s safer
Yeah, it has to be removed anyway so it definitely is safer that way. I was unaware originally that the whole assembly had to come out of it, otherwise I would have done it this way. Just when you think you know a design they throw in a curveball!
Every one I’ve done I had to heat it with torch
Most do, think I've only had 2 or 3 that ever came out without using this method
What does it cost to change that
2 to 2.5 hours labor and the belts/idlers $245-$275
Where's the best place to get those parts
There are links in the description. Looks like the bearing in the link I put was updated to be pricey. I updated the link
despite your precautions. watching you use heat anywhere in the vicinity of gas made me nervous for you
Safety First! Around here we have 3 fire extinguishers within feet, are trained and are aware that fire is a possibility even when we are not working with a MAP torch in the vicinity of fuel. Be safe, if you are not familiar with heating things and fire prevention techniques the fuel tank can definitely be removed from the area first to create a better environment that allows for more user error. Thanks for watching!
So basically you're doing the same thing I am, just guessing as you go along. You have no idea what the hell you're doing. 😂
Now that you figured out the secret I must forever ban you. Haha, just kidding, but yeah this was completely a different style than I was thinking it was and apparently it showed. Either way hope it helped someone, somewhere. Thanks for watching!
What is a slap hammer?? 😂 That's a new one. The rest of the world knows that as an impact driver. And who uses non shrink wrapped wire connectors on something that gets wet? I wished I hadn't watched this video.
Lmao if you know better why watch at all?
1st
HEY MIKE ....hows it goin buddy ?
@@fartsackjack7081 Good man wheeling and dealing fixing and selling
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🤣🤣🤣😭
Right on
First few hits look like he tighten it
Definitely not . Real-time and real loosening. Reverse is always more torque than forward so what would be the point? This was really stuck.