Just FYI, the manual says to do the slave (bottom) bleed screw first then move on to the top. Reasoning is that the air bubbles will rise as you're bleeding the system so it's best to start at the bottom.
I don’t have the second bleeder valve I had the delete but the pumping thing didn’t work at all when I tried I had to leave the clutch pedal up and let the valve drip for like an hour and keep the master cylinder full. The pumping thing didn’t work when I bought the car. It might just be my clutch line
Ok so I bled it from the top and got under to bleed it. If fluid is literally spraying out does that just mean i'm pumping my pedal too much or that there is tons of air in my system, or it is just me releasing the bleeder valve to quickly? Cause I literally got sprayed in the face twice from this lol..
Poop Sicle it's very likely that it is the problem. You can have a friend push the clutch pedal down all the way and get a prybar on the clutch for and if you can move the clutch fork further than what it is with the pedal pressed you more than likely have air in the system
you stated that you need the wood to keep the pedal down to the floorboard, but you never used it(or showed using it) anyone know when are you suppose to use it? doing this tomorrow morning to my z any answers would help, thx
0:51 you showed yourself holding the pedal down with a block of wood and long clamp. was just wandering when to use it when your bleeding alone. thanks for the content! im going to give it a go.
You use it just before you crack the bleeder open, you just need to hold the pedal down once it starts to get pressure, it will stay down on its own for a while, when it starts coming back up make sure have something to wedge in there like me, or have a busy holding it
Running on Full NOS Tanks it's really hard to say without being there, I wish I could be more help. Did you move the clutch fork by hand? I'd still replace the master cylinder to make sure
Z1 has a SS braided full length line to bypass the OEM line fuck doing this crap! Save yourself some time and get that single line you can gravity bleed it outside of the car and just bolt up the MC and bring the slave over across the engine and down the passenger side firewall W THE LINE ATTACHED its soooooo easy!!!
Good video but... 1st, why don't you just leave the freakin wrench on the bleeder screw, and 2nd why not put some hose on the slave bleeder screw to keep from making a bloody mess!
+Shroom Duke thank you! And during the 30 other bleed cycles I didn't film I figured out leaving the wrench on there. As for the slave I just didn't want brake fluid on the paint, wasn't too concerned about the ground. But you are right it is definitely recommended to put the hose on the slaves bleeder also.
funny how little things like that make me neurotic... we had a fuck of a time doing one, whoever designed that system should be kicked in the balls twice, what is the purpose of that fucking T and 3rd line, maybe someone can enlighten me cause I feel stupid on this one, we let it set for a few days and it started pumping up alright but what a MFer, the kid I was helping, worked on it for like a day and a half then I said, "it's time to walk away" what a bitch that thing was, what's up with that, we pumped like 2 qts of fluid through it!
+Shroom Duke they can definitely be frustrating. I did that too as well but I ended up replacing the wrong part since without a visible leak it's impossible to tell if the slave or master failed.
well ive replaced the slave cylinder (which was jammed stuck) & then I've put new fluid in & opened the bleeder till no more bubbles were occurring , ive used the bleeder from the bottom & the one in the engine bay at different times & the fluid is running clean no air visible. but the clutch is still soft.??
Running on Full NOS Tanks Is it soft as in easy to push, or soft as in there isn't any pedal return? My current clutch is very soft bc the pressure plate is worn out
soft as in the pedal slams to the floor & stays there. no matter how much I pump the clutch by hand & the fluid runs full when I open the bleeder no air bubbles.?
Running on Full NOS Tanks either: the master cylinder is also bad or a fitting is loose somewhere letting in air. When I replaced components for this video, I originally thought it was the slave that failed and ended up having to replace both. The fact is, it is hard to say which component fails independently. One thing I'd do if I were you is, try to move the clutch fork with your hand. I have seen the pressure plate springs snap and give similar symptoms
Just FYI, the manual says to do the slave (bottom) bleed screw first then move on to the top. Reasoning is that the air bubbles will rise as you're bleeding the system so it's best to start at the bottom.
I didnt know about the out of place bleeder screw Thanks Man
+Steve Guedo youre welcome, glad to help get a Z driving right.
thanks for the video bro, im about to upgrade my clutch and i wanted to do the slave/master cylinders too. Now I know how to, thanks dude.
Why didnt you leave the wrench on the bleed screw?
Did you bend that heat shield out of the way to see the slave better or are you just real skinny and were able to slide farther under the car?
I don’t have the second bleeder valve I had the delete but the pumping thing didn’t work at all when I tried I had to leave the clutch pedal up and let the valve drip for like an hour and keep the master cylinder full. The pumping thing didn’t work when I bought the car. It might just be my clutch line
Ok so I bled it from the top and got under to bleed it. If fluid is literally spraying out does that just mean i'm pumping my pedal too much or that there is tons of air in my system, or it is just me releasing the bleeder valve to quickly? Cause I literally got sprayed in the face twice from this lol..
This video helped me a lot
Awesome! Glad to have helped!
now i know the use second clutch line pipe..thanks
My issue it won't go into gear easily at all when the car is on and I'm going to bleed the clutch when I get a chance, hopefully that's it
Poop Sicle it's very likely that it is the problem. You can have a friend push the clutch pedal down all the way and get a prybar on the clutch for and if you can move the clutch fork further than what it is with the pedal pressed you more than likely have air in the system
you stated that you need the wood to keep the pedal down to the floorboard, but you never used it(or showed using it) anyone know when are you suppose to use it? doing this tomorrow morning to my z
any answers would help, thx
Use what exactly?
0:51 you showed yourself holding the pedal down with a block of wood and long clamp. was just wandering when to use it when your bleeding alone. thanks for the content! im going to give it a go.
You use it just before you crack the bleeder open, you just need to hold the pedal down once it starts to get pressure, it will stay down on its own for a while, when it starts coming back up make sure have something to wedge in there like me, or have a busy holding it
The Feesher thank you man🤙 great stuff, glad I found you
No problem man!
Nice! Thanks for the upload!
Poop Sicle no problem man! Hope it helped!
Desde Mexico D F Gracias. Por tu orientacion. Quedo bien.Carlos Manzano.
ive got decent pressure when i bleed it. but no pedal lift
Running on Full NOS Tanks it's really hard to say without being there, I wish I could be more help. Did you move the clutch fork by hand? I'd still replace the master cylinder to make sure
What if your clutch master line goes straight to your slave?
Then you are lucky, just bleed from the slave and you are good!
Great video
+Godss0n Johnson thank you!!
Nice man tanks
Awesome guy thanks mate
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
OH GOD there we go! hahahah
Z1 has a SS braided full length line to bypass the OEM line fuck doing this crap! Save yourself some time and get that single line you can gravity bleed it outside of the car and just bolt up the MC and bring the slave over across the engine and down the passenger side firewall W THE LINE ATTACHED its soooooo easy!!!
Good video but... 1st, why don't you just leave the freakin wrench on the bleeder screw, and 2nd why not put some hose on the slave bleeder screw to keep from making a bloody mess!
+Shroom Duke thank you! And during the 30 other bleed cycles I didn't film I figured out leaving the wrench on there. As for the slave I just didn't want brake fluid on the paint, wasn't too concerned about the ground. But you are right it is definitely recommended to put the hose on the slaves bleeder also.
funny how little things like that make me neurotic... we had a fuck of a time doing one, whoever designed that system should be kicked in the balls twice, what is the purpose of that fucking T and 3rd line, maybe someone can enlighten me cause I feel stupid on this one, we let it set for a few days and it started pumping up alright but what a MFer, the kid I was helping, worked on it for like a day and a half then I said, "it's time to walk away" what a bitch that thing was, what's up with that, we pumped like 2 qts of fluid through it!
+Shroom Duke they can definitely be frustrating. I did that too as well but I ended up replacing the wrong part since without a visible leak it's impossible to tell if the slave or master failed.
first the slave, then the top..
ive bleed the clutch & still the fucken pedal is soft as shit? help
Running on Full NOS Tanks what components did you replace and how long have you been bleeding?
well ive replaced the slave cylinder (which was jammed stuck) & then I've put new fluid in & opened the bleeder till no more bubbles were occurring , ive used the bleeder from the bottom & the one in the engine bay at different times & the fluid is running clean no air visible. but the clutch is still soft.??
Running on Full NOS Tanks Is it soft as in easy to push, or soft as in there isn't any pedal return? My current clutch is very soft bc the pressure plate is worn out
soft as in the pedal slams to the floor & stays there. no matter how much I pump the clutch by hand & the fluid runs full when I open the bleeder no air bubbles.?
Running on Full NOS Tanks either: the master cylinder is also bad or a fitting is loose somewhere letting in air. When I replaced components for this video, I originally thought it was the slave that failed and ended up having to replace both.
The fact is, it is hard to say which component fails independently. One thing I'd do if I were you is, try to move the clutch fork with your hand. I have seen the pressure plate springs snap and give similar symptoms
Ahhh....
+Rock N Ink lol just saw this comment, so I guess you know the model