The Best Guide to fix a 300zx Dead Clutch pedal (Diagnosis & Repair)
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- Опубликовано: 18 июн 2019
- Well guys I was driving back from school and my clutch pedal wnt down to the floor! My clutch would not disengage which left me stranded and I got towed home. Here is a complete DIY on hoow to fix a dead clutch pedal by replacing the clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder and clutch hydraulic line. Hope this helps!
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Im seriously losing track of how many times your videos have saved my ass
Love it!!
Keep making more videos! It helps me improve my knowledge on Z32s!
Thanks for the video, same situation for me, clutch went to the floor, bought the three parts off of rock auto for like $55, easy fix.
Thanks bro you just helped me bleed my 1990 na it was really simple and it helped alot now my clutch pedal works better than ever
Love it!!
I started bleeding the top bleaker screw several times before the bottom just like how he did for some reason it wasn’t working but when I went back to bleeding the top screw the clutch immediately got stiff. I recommend starting at the bottom bleeder first. Great vid tho💯👌🏿
you should chock the master in a vise and bench bleed it before reinstalling it or bolt it to the firewall leave it disconnected from the pedal and bench bleed it that way..saves alot of time..kool video Jeremy
This would dedinately help! Thanks for the insight brotha!
My Z's clutch master just went out thanks really helpful video
Could I get the master cylinder from auto parts for the z32? Where should I get it?
Behind the clutch slave is a rubber piece that seals the firewall. That rubber piece also has two dowels attached to it that perfectly center the clutch master. You didn't have that gasket/ dowels so your clutch master looked like it had quite a bit of play when you rested it on the firewall studs. Just a heads up
No play here after bolting up, been daily driving it for a few years now. Thanks for the info!
Great video, very in depth
Mmm, that looks pretty simple, I think I can fix it myself
Thanks!!
Have a Z 31, but the clutch does not come all the way back up after replacing the slave and master cylinder, I suspect one of them might be faulty? Any ideas? Thanks
I don’t think mine had the bleeder valve near the right fender wall. I also don’t think I measured mine against the old one to make sure the pedal length was exactly correct.
Can you ask Robbie if you have to have the booster for the clutch master?
Nice channel.
I was wondering why there are 2 bleeders. Could you delete the one next to the power steering reservoir?
The bleeding system is just engineering at its times. But, yes this top line can be deleted by running a stainless steel line from the clutch master down to the hydrolic line.
How did you get the brake line back in the master cylinder? Struggling like hell to put it back in
I just had my clutch and master replaced. I can swear it's slipping in 2nd and 3rd gear. How do you adjust the clutch pedal. How much free play at the top and were should it start to grab in relation to the floor. thanks
Sorry to hear that. Each clutch has a different engagement unfortunately. This is all done by feeling and what you as the driver likes. I would look in the forums on twin turbo.net to get the answers you need with full detailed right ups! Good luck with the project
What fluid are you using to top up?
Thanks ❤
I hope all this translates to my z31 cause Id rather not drive around in 1st gear the whole time.
Nice video! Wish it was released few months ago before I spent a ton of money at the shop.. :/
Sorry!
Update! My problem came back, same issues. This time I checked it out and it turned out specialized Z shop I took it to didn't get the length right and it wasn't fully engaging. It's so nice to be able to put it in first gear again! It helped me after all, thanks!
mines like yours but won’t let me shift into gear unless the car is off. I have a 1992 2+2
I don't tend to comment much, but that was GREAT! Thank you! Any recommendations for where to get the master and slave parts?
Thank you! Best place would probably be for used hit up Joe Nadonly on facebook hes an awesome guy, or contact z1 motorsports or concept z performance for new. Sometimes you may be able to score some parts at you local auto parts store!
Z-Bruhz thank you! Z1 and Concept have been good for me, but I'll check out Joe too
@@Slank32 anytime!
Do you have to replace the hydraulic line for the slave or the same is fine
Mine had a leak so I needed too
Awesome video! Over the winter my clutch slave gave out but once it’s started it is better. I’m going to change both. Should I get OEM or high performance one from Z1 performance?
The best is for sure OEM in my opinion. But if your build is for power I would go the z1 route
Z-Bruhz my car is built 600 whp at 21 psi I’m running 18 at about 550 on the street. Best thing I ever did was get a haltech map sensor is the way to go. Thanks for the reply.
@@dimitrioskalfopoulos3473 dayyyymmmm, yes def go the z1 route haha
u just solved half my issuesa man
Thats the plan!
was that plate that touches the clutch slave needle point loose for you? My clutch slave is leaking but I also noticed the plate it touches to move is loose and the wont move even when I press the clutch pedal
Two things could have happened if it is loose, the pivot ball could have broken or the piece came off of the pivot ball itself.
I got an 88 Z31, think same issue. You know if your steps would be the same?
Unfortunately I do not know, I have never worked on a z31
Exactly what happend to your z is happening to mine, do you think you could tell me all the parts you bought or was it just the master and slave?
I'd buy a new master/ slave/ and hose that connects to the slave
“The Z in is natural habitat” hahahahaha
My clutch pedal isn’t returning at all. Did I miss a step?
A few things to check, make sure you bleed the valve on the passenger fender well and on the slave cylinder, the other thing is to make sure it is adjusted properly. But if the pedal does not return there is air in the system.
What Liquid I need to use?
Dot 3 - 4
What if you did a manual swap and you don't have that bleeder
If you did a manual swap the only thing you will need to bleed would be the slave cylinder. There is a proportioning valve that the bleeder you are talking about which connects the line from the master cylinder to the slave on an oem setup. Hence the reason why you need to bleed it.
These are the same as in the Z31 right?
That unfortunately I do not know, but I believe they are different
Use clear hose and containers, at the very least. Also, just use your foot for pumping :)
That would take a lot longer because the pedal sticks to the floor when it starts coming back up then yea you can
Any advice for someone a out to buy a used 300zx?
What advice are you looking for
@@ZBruhzchannel like any normal issues the car might have and what I should clean or replace before really ripping her?
@@genesisgoode8158 I would look and see when the last oil change was done along with spark plugs and fuel filter. Then see when the timing belt was done this is the most crucial. Besides that brakes and clutch components.
Should you replace both the master cylinder and slave?
I have a 93 300ZX, never been replaced.
If they have never been replaced I would. I would get a one piece clutch line from Brian Metzler on Facebook for cheap and get a new slave cylinder from a local parts store or z1 and be good to go!
@@ZBruhzchannel what would be the difference on the one piece brake line and do I use existing equipment to mount new line?
@@ZBruhzchannel I live in San Diego California, maybe somewhere local for parts?
@@johnwilson42 it's really simple. You'd run a line from the master cylinder straight to the slave cylinder that's it and you would only need to bleed the slave cylinder. It deletes the hard line that goes along the passenger side fender.
@@johnwilson42 the one piece line you can get from z1 or Brian Metzler on Facebook. The z1 is trash though it's way too long so I'd advise to message Brian. The slave you can possibly get from autozone or advanced auto parts
👍👍
basically